Database Users

hd2 camera is capable of higher image quality via reg tweak (possible software 8mp)

hi all this tweak will allow the camera to save images at a less compressed jpeg rate, meaning that the image is sharper and more detailed, the image increasement has been noted though out the tread my many people to be a huge improvement, i also thing my mod works well and with it you can get soem very detailed sharp images, their are a few ways to install the mod and also a few camera settings you can use to get the best possible piture from ur hd2 after installing this mod, please read below for all info you may need to get the best out of ur device
INSTALATION only need to do one of these three.
1) edit the registry ur self and replace the values like below.
HKLM\software\htc\camera\image\jpegquaity\superfine
replace the 5Msize = 643628 value with 746028
2) install the cab "HD2 746028 SuperFine Camera Tweak" a friend created from bottom of post it only does what the above reg tweak does nothing else is changed
3) install BsB Tweaks 1.5, y registry mode is now included with this tweak app which i might add i think is a must for the hd2
BEFORE AND AFTER SHOTS FROM ME AND OTEHRS ON THIS THREAD
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=5157324&postcount=107
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=5135805&postcount=55
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=5135911&postcount=56
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=5130666&postcount=3
SOME RANDOM SHOTS AFTER MODE
superfine, average focus, 5mp + with quality tweak
superfine, center area focus, 5mp + with quality tweak

Have you tried it? Just being present in the registry doesn't mean it will be always working.

5Msize = 643628
8Msize = 746028
these are the default valuses im trying this now
test1
5Msize = 746028
8Msize = 746028
ok here test1 results:-
autoWB / 5mp / superfine / noflash
---before---/---after----
indoorWB / 5mp / superfine / noflash
---before---/---after----
both the after shows are sharper and more detailed i think you will agree
picture MB size before / after are also different, so this must mean its made a difference to the picture quality or they would be around the same
pictures at default values are 1.14mb and after their both 1.30mb

Be careful, this could just as easily mean interpolation of your image up to whatever specs you define.

Most probably this simply means that the camera software is capable of working with higher resolution hardware.

I'm not a camera expert
I'm no camera expert, but wouldn't you all agree that there is improvement with the photos when comparing the 5M with the 8M shots. Zooming in on either photo, the images are less blurred and are sharper. And if it were just a software that was being limited by the hardware, then how do you explain the 200kb increase in the data size of the photos. If the camera were only able to support 5 megapixels, then after doing that registry change for higher res shots, wouldn't the images stay the same size?
Actually, after some though, it does look like the improvement isn't enough to make it match 8MP quality, but it does seem to be the case that after doing the tweak within the software to make 8M shots, that it pushed the camera hardware to its absolute maximum performance, slightly improving the quality of the images. So, even though it's not 8-Megapixels, its still an effective method for improving the picture quality even more, right?

DAMIEN123_666 said:
5Msize = 643628
8Msize = 746028
both the after shows are sharper and more detailed i think you will agree
picture MB size before / after are also different, so this must mean its made a difference to the picture quality or they would be around the same
pictures at default values are 1.14mb and after their moth 1.30mb
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What's with the pink hue in the pictures? Didn't you apply the hotfix ?

What's with the pink hue in the pictures? Didn't you apply the hotfix ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes but like most others in fake light, house halogon bulbs the pink is still their but just not as bad, also in day light it seem almost gone

conyeje2 said:
I'm no camera expert, but wouldn't you all agree that there is improvement with the photos when comparing the 5M with the 8M shots. Zooming in on either photo, the images are less blurred and are sharper. And if it were just a software that was being limited by the hardware, then how do you explain the 200kb increase in the data size of the photos. If the camera were only able to support 5 megapixels, then after doing that registry change for higher res shots, wouldn't the images stay the same size?
Actually, after some though, it does look like the improvement isn't enough to make it match 8MP quality, but it does seem to be the case that after doing the tweak within the software to make 8M shots, that it pushed the camera hardware to its absolute maximum performance, slightly improving the quality of the images. So, even though it's not 8-Megapixels, its still an effective method for improving the picture quality even more, right?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
well id say increasing this must make a difference seen as the values for the 5mpixels are different for the quality u select in the camera app, i.e. under basic/normal/fine/superfine @ the 5msize setting in the reg are all different their approx 85000 higher per each setting,
here another photo their seems to be a good difference look at the black key ring and serial on £5

so... don't You think that megapixel count may be determined by physical aspects like 5mp matrix beeing used? why would the manufacturer want to sell it as a 5mp if it's really 8? it's like digging for tv-out on xperia only because someone found some **** in the registry.
jeeez... I hope You'll get great results and fame for this discovery. seriously.

bronx said:
so... don't You think that megapixel count may be determined by physical aspects like 5mp matrix beeing used? why would the manufacturer want to sell it as a 5mp if it's really 8? it's like digging for tv-out on xperia only because someone found some **** in the registry.
jeeez... I hope You'll get great results and fame for this discovery. seriously.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i agree with you , however Asus P750 is sold with a hardware VGA screen that runs in QVGA mode... so i guess manufacturers have their own logic...

bronx said:
so... don't You think that megapixel count may be determined by physical aspects like 5mp matrix beeing used? why would the manufacturer want to sell it as a 5mp if it's really 8? it's like digging for tv-out on xperia only because someone found some **** in the registry.
jeeez... I hope You'll get great results and fame for this discovery. seriously.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i dont think its a mpixel thing now it seems to be the overall quality of the pic, ill explain
the reg files say this for the 5mp in camera setting.....
quality modes:-
basic = 403599
nomral = 468660
fine = 556226
superfine =643628
so maybe this determines the image quality and the htc software is the thing that will support the 8pm not the hardware
ok when i increase the superfine amount x8 my total spacve to take pics drops **** loads, with no tweak i can take 2618pics with the x8 tweak it says i have space for 720pics

ok, so if it's not the hardware, then picture must be interpolated to reach the higher mp count. is there anyone reading this with some more techie knowledge? is it total bull, or just tiny little bullie sh... where are these extra pixels coming from? milions of pixels to be precise...

It seems for increasing the sharpness of the image.
In good lighting it may have better results.
But, in such case, in low lighting conditions it may show more grains/colored pixels.
If it happens so, it will confirm the fact.

I think the better photos are just more sharp and I mean a software sharpening. So I assume it's just the way the HTC software processes the photos to result in smaller files. Kind of a trade-off between sharpness and file size and yes applying software sharpening does increase the file size because of the way JPEG works. The difference is definitely not on par with a 3 million pixel improvement.

For whatever is is worth, and while I agree that if the HD2 had an 8mpx camera HTC would most likely have marketed it as such, the original Nikon D1 camera, when it first came out, was sold as a 2.7mpx camera when in fact the sensor had exactly twice as many pixels. However they chose to bin them together to increase its sensitivity... not saying that this is what is happening here, but just that there have been precedents of manufacturers decreasing the pixel count of their sensors.

The cam may be 8MP, but unless the mod makes the images physically larger in pixel number then its not changing the resolution, its just lowering the compression. That will increase quality on its own. Indeed the pics after the mod are still 5MP, just less compressed. You can set the number to almost anything you like, i set it to 800000 and it works fine. Try higher numbers and see if the quality improves more.

Ok i was very interested in this, so i applied the tweek and took a shot.
Wow it does look better, take a look at this.
Is there a way to enable the 8MP option in the camera menu so that we can select it, this is by far the best pic this phone has taken for me, i dont care what it does and how it does it, but good find.

It works for any number pretty much. Might go wild and try 10Million (from the original 750,000 or so).
I think the 8MP is just a legacy setting, possibly they tried 8MP units in early production samples, but went for 5MP in the end. The registry settings were just not removed.

How interesting. I wonder whats going on....?

camera image quality

I was curious about the camera image quality of the shift. My pictures always turn out very noisy and washed out. I have read around and found the same complaints but no answers on improvement. My 1.5mp first gen Sony camera takes a better picture. I have the exact same issues on the stock HTC, other sense roms and CM7 nightly. The quality of the image changes very little. I am looking to get a decently clear picture. I do not expect perfection from a cell phone but when I see the 100% full size picture it's really bad even in on a perfect sunny day. I see the improve image patch that I have not downloaded yet. Is there a camera app that will take a better image ? Is the kernel code for the camera a possibly culprit ?
I know there are a lot of programs like camera 360 but that's not exactly want I am looking for.
It's a little disappointing to have a 5mp camera that is not very good. I could deal with a little washed out color but all the pixelation is what I don't like at the full 5mp resolution when on my computer. Thanks for any responses and help in advance
Richard

Improved image patch?
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Ya, saw it as a suggested thread when I started to type my subject. I have not tried it. I believe it was for the shift
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i was wrong for motorola phone boo !

Are you sure you set the image quality to 5 mp first? I own a really nice 16 mp canon camera, and the shift with 5 mp takes far better pictures, even in bad lighting.
Then again, I rarely take photos, I take videos then remove the frames I want as photos, ensures I always get the picture I want.

yes, it is set at 5mp. I have tried lower ISO and all the tricks but it isn't still blurry and lots of pixelation.
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riche1 said:
I was curious about the camera image quality of the shift. My pictures always turn out very noisy and washed out. I have read around and found the same complaints but no answers on improvement. My 1.5mp first gen Sony camera takes a better picture. I have the exact same issues on the stock HTC, other sense roms and CM7 nightly. The quality of the image changes very little. I am looking to get a decently clear picture. I do not expect perfection from a cell phone but when I see the 100% full size picture it's really bad even in on a perfect sunny day. I see the improve image patch that I have not downloaded yet. Is there a camera app that will take a better image ? Is the kernel code for the camera a possibly culprit ?
I know there are a lot of programs like camera 360 but that's not exactly want I am looking for.
It's a little disappointing to have a 5mp camera that is not very good. I could deal with a little washed out color but all the pixelation is what I don't like at the full 5mp resolution when on my computer. Thanks for any responses and help in advance
Richard
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well THIS article helped me .

Just a login screen
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My shift takes pretty good images...in the right conditions.
Low light conditions almost always produce ruinous pictures. The picture displays huge amounts of noise in these cases. Flash is generally not helpful.
Choosing the ISO manually shows improvement, and I personally prefer the Touch focus mode. When shooting outdoors in daylight, I usually get very nice pictures, particularly if I shoot in 5MP and then downsize them.

riche1 said:
Just a login screen
Sent from my PG06100 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try the link below instead . Same link only posted different.
http://www.tested.com/news/how-to-take-better-photos-on-your-android-phone/430/

Same thing. Can cut n paste the article? I think I might seen this on androidfourms.com
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I'll try and get it on here for you later
TEAM MiK
Mik Roms Since 3/13/11

Thanks
Sent from my PG06100 using Tapatalk

Here's the article, sorry it took so long
Tested NewsRSS Email Us a Story
How To Take Better Photos on Your Android Phone
The cameras keep getting higher in resolution, but there's more to getting good shots than the hardware.
By Ryan Whitwam
| June 14, 2010
.It's become common for even mid-range Android phones to come with some impressive cameras. A five megapixel sensor is usually present in most smartphones, and that means you can get some pretty reasonable point-and-shoot type images. A phone's camera may not be replacing your dedicated camera anytime soon, but you have to work with what you have. If all you have with you is a phone, you might as well maximize the image quality. Android has made some strides in the image capture department in the 2.1 and upcoming 2.2 updates.
Read on as we tell you how to get the most out of your Android phone's camera. The app that comes with the phone is the one most people will inevitably use, but we'll also tell you which third-party apps can add useful functionality.
Zooming[/B
]Zooming is something we've all become accustomed to on real cameras. A standalone camera most likely has optical zoom. This enlarges an image by using movable lens elements to vary the focal length. With optical zoom, quality is not lost. With the digital zoom used in phones, you are basically cropping out pixels at the edge and blowing up what's left. The result is a poorer quality image. We recommend not zooming in if at all possible, since you can always crop an image after the fact using desktop software. The only time you should use your camera's zoom is when you have to send that photo off on the phone without any post-cropping.
Stock Android phones running on 2.1 and earlier have access to zoom controls in the form of plus/minus buttons on the screen, but it only moves in steps. In 2.2 Google is adding a zoom slider to the on-screen controls. Camera Pro and Camera Zoom FX can add that functionality now for a few bucks. Sense UI phones have long had access to digital zoom in the camera app. The ease of use depends on the underlying Android software version. On Android 2.1 builds of Sense, users are presented with a large friendly scroll wheel to adjust the zoom.
The zoom option is there if you need it, but we suggest only using it when you have to. Even then, zoom only as much as you have to. Each step you zoom means fewer pixels in the final image. The small images sensors on these phones tend to have more noise than standard cameras, and the more you zoom, the more noticeable that will be.
Flash
Next, you need to keep track of your flash settings. Cell phones use LED flashes, which are nice as they don't use very much power. However, they tend to light a subject more harshly than a more natural-looking Xenon flash on a real camera might (this happens even at a distance).
It's always a good idea to turn the flash off when you don't need it. The stock Android camera app has a tendency to overuse the flash when it is set on auto. If you take a picture in medium light and the flash goes off unexpectedly, try it again with the flash off. We often find the resulting image to be preferable to the one with the flash.
Focusing
What's the good of taking a photo if it isn't going to be in focus? Android phones made early use of autofocus cameras and that means better images. Phones with hardware camera buttons sometimes employ a two-step mechanism like a real camera. That means you can depress the button halfway to focus, then recompose and press it the rest of the way to capture the image. This is helpful in that it can allow you to change up the framing without capturing an image if the focus doesn't look right.
On a phone like the Nexus One without a hardware shutter button, you can get similar functionality. When you press the on-screen shutter button, you can hold your finger there to inspect the focus. If you don't like it, just slide your finger off without removing it from the screen. This will let you try again without taking the image. Similarly, if using a trackball/trackpad as the shutter, depress to focus, and if you wish to abandon the image you can tap the screen.
Sense UI phones have a different trick up their sleeve when it comes to focusing. These phones have tap to focus, a feature we originally saw in the iPhone 3GS. You can tap anywhere in the frame to have the camera autofocus for that spot. This is functionality we have not yet been able to replicate on stock Android phones through apps.
Image size
The next thing to be aware of is what type of image quality you need. The default setting on most phones is maximum quality. That's fine if you intend to take important images to keep. But if you're just taking a snapshot to email to a friend, or send in an MMS, you don't need the highest resolution image.
A full resolution image from an 8MP camera like that in the Incredible or EVO 4G could be well over 1MB. If you're on a non-unlimited data plan, sending a large image via MMS may not be a viable option at all. All the stock apps, as well as third-party camera apps will allow you to change the resolution of the image being captured.
This is also a good idea if you need to take several photos in quick succession. Android can be a little slow to write images to the SD card and prepare for the next shot. By reducing the overall image size, you can get more shots in. This functionality is available from the onscreen controls of all the stock apps. Some third party apps hide this functionality in the settings menu.
Fine tuning
These camera phones are getting closer and closer to being the real thing, as evidenced by the plethora of image effects they can use. Stock Android 2.2 (and Sense UI) and higher phones can take advantage of different exposure settings. The exposure is just the amount of light allowed to hit the image sensor. This can be used to compensate for conditions that are too light or dark, bringing out detail. If you need a flash, but it makes the image a little too bright (common with LED flashes), you can try again with a lower exposure. Change the exposure around while composing a shot. The Android camera will change the preview to approximate chosen exposure. Stock Android 2.1 is unable to alter these values, so you'll have to wait for the 2.2 update.
You can also get better color representation by changing the white balance. The auto setting is usually fine, but we've found Android phones can get confused, especially in low light. This often leaves us with warm, almost orange pictures. If your phone is taking images that look to warm or cold, try setting the white balance to the type of light you're shooting under. You have options like incandescent, daylight, fluorescent, and cloudy.
Sense UI phones (even on 2.1) have all these tweaks and more. HTC has added a number of options to their Android interface that doesn't exist for stock phones. There is an option to change metering mode to spot, center, or average. This controls how the phone samples to determine how to expose the shot. This can be helpful if your subject is lighted differently from the rest of the shot. We find this useful for times when we're taking a backlit shot.
Sense UI also builds in ISO settings. ISO is basically how sensitive the image sensor is to light. A higher ISO will allow you to capture motion better, but the image will be grainier. The sensors on phones tend to handle motion pretty poorly, so this is a nice addition on HTC's part. We haven't found any apps that allow stock Android to do any of this either. Camera 360 is a new app with some fun filters, and it offers an ISO option, but we found it did not work on stock Android 2.1 or 2.2. It seems HTC rolled their own code for this.
With a little thought, you can capture completely respectable images with your Android phone. We feel that the most important first step is setting up the shot correctly. You have to evaluate if you need the flash on or not, and if you can avoid zooming. Make sure to examine the preview after your handset focuses before you take the image. In our experience, the stock apps that come with your phone will do nearly everything you need.
Most of the third party apps don't add much functionality beyond some effect filters. The only exception may be timer and timer and burst mode, which you can get from an app like Camera Zoom FX. Sense phones, of course, have this built in. Do you have any camera tips for Android? Any apps you've found that bring something meaningful to the experience?

Thanks this helps
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Here to help
TEAM MiK
Mik Roms Since 3/13/11

I don't get it, every single picture I take is blurry and very noisy no matter what. You can not tell until you see the full resolution size 2592x1936. I don't need to save all pictures this size but I do a lot of cycling events that I would like to take good pictures at. My hope was to be able to have some nice larger photos to print . It would save me from buying a DC. I have noticed that older pictures before my rom flash are the same way.
The camera on my 3yr old crappy ATT samsung took clear pictures.Some were a little noisy because of lighting but not near as bad as this .
I am starting to wonder if my sensor is defective or my lens is scratched . I would attach a picture but the restrictions here would not allow it. Thanks for the help again. I guess I am SOL

What Rom are you on?

I have another camera related question. I have the CM7 nightly, my camera always freezed when I am waiting for a next shoot for too long, I have to take out the battery to reboot. Can anyone give some advices.

I am using cm7 nightlies. I have tried all roms with the sane results . As for the other question, did u format data,system, cache and dalvik cache( spelling) ?
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RAW Camera for N9005 Lollipop?

Some articles stated that with Android L, devices will receive the capability to save photos in RAW .dng format, providing a far superior photo quality for shutter bugs. I have looked through the stock sammy camera app, but no RAW, and I was unable to find another app on play store to do this. Is there any camera app you guys can suggest that has that format? Please help, I don't mind if I have to pay for the app just give me a link or something, please

posedatull said:
Some articles stated that with Android L, devices will receive the capability to save photos in RAW .dng format, providing a far superior photo quality for shutter bugs. I have looked through the stock sammy camera app, but no RAW, and I was unable to find another app on play store to do this. Is there any camera app you guys can suggest that has that format? Please help, I don't mind if I have to pay for the app just give me a link or something, please
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This might help.
It's a third party app from playstore Photo Mate

amk19 said:
This might help.
It's a third party app from playstore Photo Mate
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks man, but that app just lets me modify RAW pictures made by other cameras and then copied to the phone. I was looking for what the L Camera is supposed to do for the Nexus 5 and6 devices. Actually take pictures in RAW format with my N9005

posedatull said:
Thanks man, but that app just lets me modify RAW pictures made by other cameras and then copied to the phone. I was looking for what the L Camera is supposed to do for the Nexus 5 and6 devices. Actually take pictures in RAW format with my N9005
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try this Camera FV-5

amk19 said:
Try this Camera FV-5
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Bought it, tried, said our device doesn't support raw. Asked for refund

posedatull said:
Bought it, tried, said our device doesn't support raw. Asked for refund
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh. Okay. Sorry buddy.

RAW format isn't going to do much about the quality of the photographs on a mobile phone with a sensor this small.
The sensors in smartphones cameras are the lowest possible tier. Using a digital negative isn't going to improve that.
Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk 2

ShadowLea said:
RAW format isn't going to do much about the quality of the photographs on a mobile phone with a sensor this small.
The sensors in smartphones cameras are the lowest possible tier. Using a digital negative isn't going to improve that.
Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is simply not true. The ability to capture RAW images has immensely improved camera performance on other devices.

troy2062 said:
That is simply not true. The ability to capture RAW images has immensely improved camera performance on other devices.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I sincerely hope you're joking.
Do you actually know, without looking it up first, what the RAW format is for?
It is a digital negative. It contains all the data the sensor is able to capture.
The resulting JPG's quality is entirely determined by the compression format used by the camera app.
Shooting in RAW allows you more freedom to tweak the image before turning it into a JPG. It does NOT improve the camera performance. It does not increase the sharpness, decrease the noise and reduce blurring.
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troy2062 said:
That is simply not true. The ability to capture RAW images has immensely improved camera performance on other devices.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm sorry but this is just wrong.
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ShadowLea said:
I sincerely hope you're joking.
Do you actually know, without looking it up first, what the RAW format is for?
It is a digital negative. It contains all the data the sensor is able to capture.
The resulting JPG's quality is entirely determined by the compression format used by the camera app.
Shooting in RAW allows you more freedom to tweak the image before turning it into a JPG. It does NOT improve the camera performance. It does not increase the sharpness, decrease the noise and reduce blurring.
Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am a photography enthusiast and I do not appreciate your condescending tone. The XDA community at large has become far too hostile for my liking in recent years.
For all practical purposes, it does improve camera performance. When capturing in RAW using the camera2 API, you gain full manual control over shutter speed and ISO, as well as the ability to bypass the camera module's automated image processing. The resulting DNG is completely free of automated correction and you will have significantly more dynamic range to work with.
Despite the small sensor size of smartphone cameras, shooting RAW still yields significant benefits.

troy2062 said:
The XDA community at large has become far too hostile for my liking in recent years.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wish I could agree with you on this more. XDA is floating with kids nowadays, some of them haven't even hit puberty yet

troy2062 said:
I am a photography enthusiast and I do not appreciate your condescending tone. The XDA community at large has become far too hostile for my liking in recent years.
For all practical purposes, it does improve camera performance. When capturing in RAW using the camera2 API, you gain full manual control over shutter speed and ISO, as well as the ability to bypass the camera module's automated image processing. The resulting DNG is completely free of automated correction and you will have significantly more dynamic range to work with.
Despite the small sensor size of smartphone cameras, shooting RAW still yields significant benefits.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm glad you're not another one of those people who just heard a word used on a site and thinks they know everything. There are too many of those around, and they are the reason so many of the senior members are hostile towards others.
Particularly where the topic concerns photography. Too many bloody Instagrammers who think they're professionals. The most hilarious ones are the ones who don't even own a DSLR, but think their phone's camera can do the same thing. Or those idiots who complain about the camera quality, and leave the settings on auto.
Most apps have ISO control, even the stock camera.
Isn't that what I just said? "The resulting DNG is completely free of automated correction and you will have significantly more dynamic range to work with." is the exact same thing as "Shooting in RAW allows you more freedom to tweak the image before turning it into a JPG."
RAW mode only improves the resulting JPG. It can't improve the basic image. The lightbleed, stained glass details and oilpainting effect is a result of the sensorsize, not the JPG compression. The compression amplifies the problem, but it doesn't cause it.
And if an image is valuable enough to spend good time on taking the perfect shot, then taking it with a phone is a waste. If you're going to use BULB mode, you'll need a stationary. If you're going to drag the stationary along, might as well bring your DSLR and do it properly.
Was that condescending? I don't know, social cues aren't my area of expertise. But if you thought it was, you should've seen our Photo-Storytelling professor back at uni. That man made everyone afraid to even speak if there was a chance that your answer wasn't 100% accurate. Best class ever.
devilsdouble said:
Wish I could agree with you on this more. XDA is floating with kids nowadays, some of them haven't even hit puberty yet
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've seen 9 year olds act like they know everything and tell the professional developers how they should do their job.
I've seen a 15 year old attempt to tell Chainfire how Root works. *snicker*. Too bad that thread was deleted, it was pure comedy gold. :laugh:
The major problem is that many of the offended users treat XDA as a helpdesk. It's not. It's a developers website. People have a responsibility to Google before they come here to ask their questions. If they neglect that responsiblity, the community doesn't take it very well. It's like going onto a website for car modders and asking how to put gas in a car at a station.

I don't think Samsung did rewrite the Camera HAL and therefore no complete camera2 api support which is a very bad thing.
We don't get a lot of the goodies especially the performance improvement.
Currently there's a 1 second shutter lag on 3rd party apps comparing to stock Samsung camera.

ShadowLea said:
RAW format isn't going to do much about the quality of the photographs on a mobile phone with a sensor this small.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
RAW format will allow you to develop better quality images than out-of-camera JPEGs.
In-phone postprocessing is limited by its no-so-great software and also processing power (it needs to be able to process a lot of pictures quickly). If you just take RAW files from the phone and run it through dedicated software (Lightroom, Aftershot Pro, Noise Ninja), I bet you'd get better images than what you OOC even without fine-tuning anything.
But the more importantly, it allows you to fine-tune a lot of stuff - fix white balance, exposition, find suitable contrast - besides creative control you will often get significantly better quality images.
ShadowLea said:
The sensors in smartphones cameras are the lowest possible tier. Using a digital negative isn't going to improve that.
Click to expand...
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I used to take pictures with way worse cameras (like Canon A410) than camera on Note 3 and RAW often made a big difference. RAW is actually more useful on poor sensors (and/or poor post processors) where you need to squeeze the maximum from the picture. On the otherhand, e.g. my Fuji X100 has good enough (APS-C) sensor and very good JPEG engine that I very rarely feel the need to shoot RAW.

Personally I always shot in RAW on a dlsr as I always tweak my photos, the freedom to change tweak exposure/white balance has become a necessity. I can't stand processed jpegs anymore, especially when I don't know what the processing is really doing but I know it ain't doing a good job.
I got the Note 3 a few weeks back and have been wondering about RAW capability as it's something that it's important to me and others who want the extended freedom with their pictures. I have not yet jumped into Lollipop to test it out, but is the Camera2 API included in the lollipop roms available now? Is that API a lollipop standard? If so there's no reason our device shouldn't be able to shoot in RAW.

eddiee said:
RAW format will allow you to develop better quality images than out-of-camera JPEGs.
In-phone postprocessing is limited by its no-so-great software and also processing power (it needs to be able to process a lot of pictures quickly). If you just take RAW files from the phone and run it through dedicated software (Lightroom, Aftershot Pro, Noise Ninja), I bet you'd get better images than what you OOC even without fine-tuning anything.
But the more importantly, it allows you to fine-tune a lot of stuff - fix white balance, exposition, find suitable contrast - besides creative control you will often get significantly better quality images.
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I know how RAW works. I'm a professional photographer, I never use anything other than RAW. Which has some downsides.. I'm seriously running out of storage space on my harddrives
You're forgetting one very important factor. Given the size of RAW files, you can take about 40 pictures before you run out of space on your device, less if you have a decent amount of apps. L fixes the tight security that prevented apps to write to the SD in 4.4, but even then the space limitations are.. obnoxious. 13MP should translate to about 20-25MB per picture. Sure there are 128GB MicroSD cards, but unless you keep that clear of any other data (I have the entire LOTR Extended trilogy on there, for example.) it's still going to be a limitation. The 128GB cards are also quite pricey. I use 128GB SDcards in my camera, and on an average day I have to switch around at least once because it's full. And that's empty cards. Phone cards have data on them.
I used to take pictures with way worse cameras (like Canon A410) than camera on Note 3 and RAW often made a big difference. RAW is actually more useful on poor sensors (and/or poor post processors) where you need to squeeze the maximum from the picture. On the otherhand, e.g. my Fuji X100 has good enough (APS-C) sensor and very good JPEG engine that I very rarely feel the need to shoot RAW.
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Evidently, as the A410 had dedicated camera hardware, as opposed to it just being an addition designed for random facebook pictures. And the JPEG conversion in 2005 was severely underdeveloped compared to modern day, and the hardware allows significantly more calculations. Even then the sensors in a modern-day cheap Compact camera are better than the ones in a smartphone, simply because those in smartphones are cut from the leftovers of the sensor plate.
Ah, a Fuji X100? It's one of the classic-style shell camera's, if I recall correctly. I played around with one a while ago, one of my colleagues is a hipster, so yea, he has one. :silly:
Funny little thing, pretty decent quality for something so small. It's not a system camera, though, so his arguments to convince me to get one were completely wasted. I'm a macro, landscape and architecture photographer; I need my different lenses.
My Canon EOS 70D can shoot in JPEG at ISO 6400 without noise. Doesn't mean I ever take it off the RAW+JPG setting. Even then I always edit my pictures in CameraRaw. JPG is good enough for preview, but I require PNG and TIFF for high-quality print. And shooting Macro and Landscape in JPG is simply a wasted effort. Those always require editing. So does architecture, because I'm too lazy to drag a technical camera along, so I have to do a lot of perspective correction. RAW is better suited for that.
There is one thing on which I do see the point of shooting in RAW with a smartphone. The lens is so utterly rubbish that the chromatic aberration is simply painful. Not to mention the overly obvious light flares if you try to shoot anything near a lightsource or white. It won't solve it, but at least you can tone it down a bit.
Still, I'd rather use my DSLR for those photographs. It also looks an awful lot less ridiculous than standing around with a smartphone taking pictures.

ShadowLea said:
You're forgetting one very important factor. Given the size of RAW files, you can take about 40 pictures before you run out of space on your device, less if you have a decent amount of apps. L fixes the tight security that prevented apps to write to the SD in 4.4, but even then the space limitations are.. obnoxious. 13MP should translate to about 20-25MB per picture.
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20-25 MB per RAW picture means 40-50 pictures per GB. Currently I have 9 GBs free on the phone and 21 GB on the card. That translates to about 1200-1500 pictures. That sounds quite OK.
Still, I don't plan to shoot exclusively RAW - there's no point in fiddling with RAW for simple point&shoot pictures. Personally I'd use RAW only when it's necessary - in challenging lighting conditions, important shots etc.
Storage won't be a problem for me.
ShadowLea said:
Evidently, as the A410 had dedicated camera hardware, as opposed to it just being an addition designed for random facebook pictures. And the JPEG conversion in 2005 was severely underdeveloped compared to modern day, and the hardware allows significantly more calculations. Even then the sensors in a modern-day cheap Compact camera are better than the ones in a smartphone, simply because those in smartphones are cut from the leftovers of the sensor plate.
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JPEG conversion is bad in a lot of cameras even today (although Samsung's JPEG engine seems to be one of the better ones, in smartphones). The point was that RAW is useful both for good and bad cameras (sensors).
ShadowLea said:
Still, I'd rather use my DSLR for those photographs. It also looks an awful lot less ridiculous than standing around with a smartphone taking pictures.
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Best camera is the one you have with you. DSLR is too big for me to drag around. That's why I bought Fuji - it's quite small and light while having very good IQ. Actually even the Fuji is too big and heavy (especially for the neck) on the longer hikes (30km) - sometimes I just leave it at home and go just with the phone. I eagerly await phone camera improvements (including RAW support) so I can leave my larger cameras at home.

eddiee said:
20-25 MB per RAW picture means 40-50 pictures per GB. Currently I have 9 GBs free on the phone and 21 GB on the card. That translates to about 1200-1500 pictures. That sounds quite OK.
Still, I don't plan to shoot exclusively RAW - there's no point in fiddling with RAW for simple point&shoot pictures. Personally I'd use RAW only when it's necessary - in challenging lighting conditions, important shots etc.
Storage won't be a problem for me.
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You've got a lot more free space than me. I've got 1GB on the phone left, and 2GB on my MicroSD (Out of 128, yea... The disadvantage of 1080p series. >.<)
Oh I've seen people do it; shoot in RAW then put it on Instagram. :laugh:
JPEG conversion is bad in a lot of cameras even today (although Samsung's JPEG engine seems to be one of the better ones, in smartphones). The point was that RAW is useful both for good and bad cameras (sensors).
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Well yes. But it still can't fix the problems caused by the bad sensor. It can decrease them because JPG conversion aplifies them, but it can't fix them. RAW can't fix hardware faults. (Oh if only it could..)
Best camera is the one you have with you.
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I both agree and disagree. Any camera is better than no camera, true.
But I had an EOS 500D before this, and it simply made bad pictures. For memories and snapshots the quality matters little (And it may even add to the photo), but it had a similar problem as the smartphones: it was a low-tier model and had a cheap sensor. All the editing in RAW couldn't fix the data that simply wasn't collected, and it can't add detail that isn't there. The same issue applies to smartphones.
(And before anyone tries to, don't even think of throwing out "The quality of the photograph is determined by the photographer". I hate that saying, and it's only ever said by those who can't afford a decent camera. That saying applies to the quality of the content, not the image quality. Someone usually ends up using that argument in any photography discussion, so consider this a pre-emptive strike.)
DSLR is too big for me to drag around. That's why I bought Fuji - it's quite small and light while having very good IQ. Actually even the Fuji is too big and heavy (especially for the neck) on the longer hikes (30km) - sometimes I just leave it at home and go just with the phone. I eagerly await phone camera improvements (including RAW support) so I can leave my larger cameras at home.
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It can get a bit heavy, yes. It's why I always use a backpack. True, it's still about 30-40 kilos, but as a backpack that's easily manageable. I've tried taking photo's with my phone on my trips, but I always end up wanting my macro, telezoom or wideangle lens. But I'm the weird one who stands around taking photographs of a floral arrangement while everyone else is photographing the Colosseum, and who takes a macro photograph of the leg of the Eiffel Tower, but not the tower itself. So perhaps I'm a bad example of the average photographer. :laugh: :silly:

But I had an EOS 500D before this, and it simply made bad pictures. For memories and snapshots the quality matters little (And it may even add to the photo), but it had a similar problem as the smartphones: it was a low-tier model and had a cheap sensor. All the editing in RAW couldn't fix the data that simply wasn't collected, and it can't add detail that isn't there. The same issue applies to smartphones.
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When shooting raw, images should be taken with post processing in mind and exposures set to take the most amount of the important data whatever it may be. Thus a picture looking good or bad in camera is totally irrelevant. The 500D takes good pictures, it's no 5D mk3 but good enough for semi-pro depending on what kind of stuff is being shot with it. A good lens on a lowish tier camera goes a long way, much more so than a good sensor with a mediocre lens.

Alternative App that makes best quality photos

Hi there,
As everyone knows, default camera app of sony sucks. I have tried a lot of alternative applications. For me the best results is from Snap Camera with settings 20mpx, camera api2, jpeg quality Best, opengl2, auto scene auto whitebalance, auto flash. These settings allows me to take much sharper images tested on my small facial hair. BUT! Camera is very overheating, after few minutes (5-6 shots) i have started sony camera and it alerted that camera is too hot, so it shuts down.
Snap camera allows HDR in 20mpx also any scene, its not limited as sony-s camera
Also snap camera produced the best images on my old low quality mtk based phone. So i recommend it, its paid but as far i know it have trial version.
I will be happy if someone will tell how is satisfied with this app.
PS.: FV-5 is worse, for my eyes.

in the play store info, there is setting for ISO. but why is there non when i check in setting...?

ive taken some kick ass photos in good light/ low light / bad light with the stock app. IDK what everyone is on about. but to each their own =)

`Ghost` said:
ive taken some kick ass photos in good light/ low light / bad light with the stock app. IDK what everyone is on about. but to each their own =)
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In Auto mode or Manual?

Both.

Basically, when you unlock your boot loader, the great photo quality will be gone. If you have backed up your "TRIMM area" before unlocking it (where the DRM keys are stored), then you'll be able to get it back, by re-locking the BL, but this means you'll lose your ability to use costom ROMs, only modified stock ROMs are possible after that.
The reason for this is that Sony uses some pretty amazing software magic to get great pictures in low light (noise reduction algorithms) which aren't meant to be accessible for others to reverse engineer, so they lock them away with the DRM keys. So with a locked boot loader, the camera makes awesome pictures even in low light, with an unlocked BL, meh... (not so much any more)
Of course, these algorithms are only available to the Sony default camera app for the same reasons...

Have you tried this
It will let you have scene's and HDR in 20mp, also it has more ISO options.

I've used FV-5 from the start and imo it's a lot better for me then the stock app. I can't work with the stock app that has limited control
Sent from my D5803 using XDA Free mobile app

stock camera is the only one...'cause of manual iso... fv-5 has good auto but you can't force iso 100, 200 and so on

Recently I have the Z3 Compact therefore not yet tried everything, but the camera does not seem anywhere near what they sold me in reviews. The original camera seems poor choices, the automatic mode leaves much to be desired, especially in low light because when you have a lighthouse in front can not interpret well and properly handle white balance and contrast.
I was testing the Open Camera app and gives me better results than stock. The only thing I use it now for the stock camera is for timeshift and sometimes for panoramic shots.

I have almost forgot about this post, thanks for cleaning my bookmarks.
Thanks for everyone’s reply, I have figured out that another phones also uses that sensor and they make better pics, so probably problem is with sony's software developers who are doing a weak job. I am very addicted to zooming pictures and when I compare zoomed 5mpx downscale shot of lumia 1020 and 8 or 20mpx shot of Z3C, then shot of lumia is sharp and clear, full of details.... the shot of sony is like blurred and without details. So i think that they algorithm is wrong somewhere or they are compressing raw to too low quality and when jpeg is created then its final quality will be even worse regardless of 97% or 100% jpeg quality. Need to note that nokia's sensor is three times bigger in its physical size that captures the light.
But the video quality is epic i have never seen so good video quality from phone.
Currently i am waiting for availability of 5.1.1 in slovakia

Xperia X Compact camera speed

Guys every review shows the camera of this phone being slow. Huge delay after pressing the shutter before processing is complete. Maybe 23MP picture size is to blame. Is there any way to make it faster? Does reducing image resolution in camera settings help?

hsanjay19 said:
Guys every review shows the camera of this phone being slow. Huge delay after pressing the shutter before processing is complete. Maybe 23MP picture size is to blame. Is there any way to make it faster? Does reducing image resolution in camera settings help?
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Meh, to be honest I don't think the delay is that bad after using the camera. What I think is horrendous is the amount of time it takes screenshots to process.
Sent from my F5321 using Tapatalk

I very much share your pain. Nougat on the X compact has increased the speed dramatically (through hacky ways, but it still somewhat works).
If you really want the same "instant" experience you expect from other flagships you'll have to go with an OS using the open source drivers - on AOSPA the photos are taken extremely quickly, however they are considerably worse. You will lose 120fps recording, Sony image processing, Camera2 features, good focussing, and video recording gets super laggy at times.
But photos are _fast_. And reliable. And with a small bit of work we might even get bursts to work.
That said I'll probably switch back to the original firmware with Oreo.