Like the title suggests, is there no way to turn on the flash while shooting in HDR?
I don't think many phones even offer this. The point of HDR is to take two images that differ in the amount of light they take in. These are taken very close together, and 1) the flash timing probably wouldn't work out, and 2) that's kind of the whole point of HDR is to take both an under-exposed frame, and an over-exposed frame and blend them together. Flash would screw that up.
I have had other phones that you could turn the flash and hdr on but I see what you are saying. I never looked at it that way with the flash messing it up. I am by no means a good photographer.
Related
When taking pictures in a dark environment, the camera flash on my EVO darn near blinds whoever I'm taking pictures of, resulting in a bunch of "I just smelled sh*t" faces. Anybody have any idea on how to maybe dim the flash without turning it off altogether?
I would really like to see an answert to this...and also to an issue with the flash that I have experienced. It seems that, with no consistency or reason that I can discern, the flash goes "blue" and results in a picture with an overall blue tint. Any ideas?
most LED flashes do it, i just deal with it
I think a better idea is to have the flash on at a low level so your subject knows where to look, and then the moment you click the flash goes 100%. My old touch pro did that but I don't know why EVO will not?
The light meter on this phone is slow, and it takes a while for the exposure to adjust to the very bright LED lighting. I Also think the WB is off on a lot of pictures as well. Lets hope HTC and Sprint fixes this because the camera and camcorder could be a LOT better than they are.
it would be nice if we could turn off one of the leds as an option which would help with close nite time pictures
Hey Guys,
I have a 100% bricked unit a person donated for work.
I took some macro shots. First time. If anyone can give me hints on how to get them more clean / close etc. I will do more.
But, here you go.
Smaller images
http://www.mrcellphoneunlocker.com/vibrant_macro
Raw Images
http://www.mrcellphoneunlocker.com/vibrant_macro/Raw/
Well, you basically need to change the resolution to something higher, and change the settings in the camera to macro mode. From the looks of things though, your camera won't allow close-ups in high detail.
I change to macro. I think i need a tri-pod to keep it steady. my hands shake
Yeah, change resolution to something much higher. Even if you camera doesn't have a macro mode, we should be able to zoom in pretty well. The more natural light, the better.
New pics up using a tri-pod.
http://www.mrcellphoneunlocker.com/vibrant_macro
let me know
Hard to tell on there... not even close to macro though. You'll need to get a macro lens to get real close.
Here's true 1:1 ratio macro of the sim card slot along with a 100% crop from the same photo
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4080/4896772122_450859da8d_o.jpg
100% crop
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4099/4896176925_ee3f0d09f9_o.jpg
I took the screws out of the plastic cover and was going to take some close up shots for you, but when I did it didn't seem to come loose on it's own. I assume that I'd need to pry it apart which I wasn't going to do since it's not bricked, lol....
Mine is just a simple 12M cam. Nothing special. Its not a SLR. But if you have a vibrant open. please take using a prof cam
How did you get the black plastic cover off? Are there some tabs or anything I need to push in, will it go back on nice after I take it off? I'd glady take real closup shots of all the components if it's easy to get that off.. I took out all of the screws thinking it would just come loose, but it didn't. I don't want to jack it up, I'm not the most graceful when it comes to working with small breakable parts. Would hate to jack up my new phone, haha.
jeremiah_mn said:
How did you get the black plastic cover off? Are there some tabs or anything I need to push in, will it go back on nice after I take it off? I'd glady take real closup shots of all the components if it's easy to get that off.. I took out all of the screws thinking it would just come loose, but it didn't. I don't want to jack it up, I'm not the most graceful when it comes to working with small breakable parts. Would hate to jack up my new phone, haha.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well this phone was taken apart already. and its a total brick.
He told me he had to remove the silver plastic.
The rest I just removed the screws and the connectors. Very simple.
What you have uploaded is maybe a 1mp image. When pulling images off the camera dont allow any resizing, and when uploading to the webpage dont allow any resizing. We need that 10mb+ file to view things properly. If your using your vibrant to take a picture of this vibrant, dont waste your time.
bubonik said:
What you have uploaded is maybe a 1mp image. When pulling images off the camera dont allow any resizing, and when uploading to the webpage dont allow any resizing. We need that 10mb+ file to view things properly. If your using your vibrant to take a picture of this vibrant, dont waste your time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, You are right. the app is making them smaller. Ill upload over night. so they are bigger.
Thanks for the idea. I forgot about that
Uploading now.
Huge raw images: http://www.mrcellphoneunlocker.com/vibrant_macro/Raw/
I can't wait to see this development blossom...
Sent from my SGH-T959 using XDA App
i wonder if the FF camera from the SGS is a combined vga FFC / 5mp main camera? you can see the hole in the chassis clearly in your pictures and its RIGHT behind the main 5mp camera.
it'd be interesting if you could obtain the FFC or the dual lens (whatever, forgive my lack of knowledge on the proper terminology) unit from the SGS and put it in a vibrant.
probably more trouble than its worth, but maybe not?
MOD, Why were these two threads moved? These are DEV threads. not Gerneal threads. Please move them back.
Thanks!
Following the update, any picture I take with my camera is blurry. It doesn't matter if I keep the camera still and/or the subject is still.
Anyone else seeing this and/or have any ideas as to how to fix it?
Someone suggested holding down the shutter button for a sec before releasing it. I've tried it and notice when the sound is on it'll actually make a noise when it's focused. I hth you!!!
Sent from my SGH-T959 using XDA App
DLarva said:
Following the update, any picture I take with my camera is blurry. It doesn't matter if I keep the camera still and/or the subject is still.
Anyone else seeing this and/or have any ideas as to how to fix it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you do ok before the update?
If not I can suggest some tips...
Don
Sent from my SGH-T959 using XDA App
Yeah, my pictures were turning out well prior to the update. It could be coincidence and something else changed, but the update is the most likely culprit.
I've got the same issue. My picture quality has gone to crap in the JI6 update vs. the JFD update. They always come out blurry no matter how still I hold the camera.
On this forum others have fixed errors following the update by performing a factory reset...has anyone who had this blurry camera issue tried this? If so, did the blurriness go away?
Have you tried cleaning the plastic/glass element in front of the camera? Sometimes I get a finger smudge on it and my pictures will turn out blurry.
sj_martin said:
Have you tried cleaning the plastic/glass element in front of the camera? Sometimes I get a finger smudge on it and my pictures will turn out blurry.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I second this heh you'd be surprised at how important this is. But I haven't noticed any problem, works fine for me.
I have tried cleaning it...but perhaps I need to use the right cleaning product. Any recommendations?
jesus. use your t shirt.
perhaps you accidentally set the focus mode to macro?
DLarva said:
Yeah, my pictures were turning out well prior to the update. It could be coincidence and something else changed, but the update is the most likely culprit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have noticed that after the update, specifically the need to get a lock with the focusing square prior to taking the shot, is critical. Just tapping the shutter button to get a shot gives me blurry pictures most of the time. Not sure if its really the update or not or just me.
I have found if I push the shutter button down and hold it down until the focusing square goes green indicating a focus lock, then I can hold the camera still and compose my shot, as long as I do not change the distance between the subject and the camera, I can trigger the shutter by pulling my finger off the screen shutter button without bumping the device, I get much sharper pictures. Camera shake equals blurry. In this new high def world we demand sharpness more then ever.
In addition with all cameras, the sensor (or film in the old days) needs a certain fixed amount of light for a proper exposure. With automatic cameras the brighter the ambient light on the subject the faster the shutter speed will be. Fast shutter equals sharper focused hand held shots. If its darker the camera compensates by opening the shutter slower (longer) and raising the ISO to get the same fixed amount of light into the camera. In low light if you move even slightly the shot will be blurry and grainy from the high ISO and slower shutter.
Sorry if this is all well known "camera 101", just trying to help. This really is an exceptional point and shoot camera and over the top for a phone. I hope the update didn't jack up your cameras and a reset and/or the above tips does the trick for you guys.
Don
Update:
After trying many different things I finally talked with TMo support and they sent me a replacement phone.
My old phone had a few additional problems that this one doesn't have, so I'm glad I did the replacement. However, the new phone also doesn't seem to be capable of taking good photos.
I don't know what I'm doing wrong, but I used to be able to take great pictures with this phone without trying, and now I go out of my way to setup the perfect situation and the pictures are still blurry.
The only thing I can think of that changed on the phone is the OTA update.
Furthermore, taking video works just fine. So it is something about the Camera software or something I'm somehow doing differently than I did during my first few months of ownership.
Was playing with the different camera modes the other day when my camera started acting funky. It looks like its out of focus but upon closer inspection i noticed my lens is actually moving around with the image stabilization. Pictures from far away arnt as affected but anything within 10 feet just comes out blurry. The picture also looks like its jumping around when your lining up your shot. Tried resetting the camera settings, manual focus and even a 3rd party camera app with no change. Was wondering if anyone knew of a way to disable the ois, or fix the problem all together?
Loved this phone but its just one problem after another, might just jump ship soon.
i think your camera focus is broken , replacement costs ~15$ on ebay ...
mine also won't work correctly, it's like it's in macro mode , i removed battery cover and pushed lens with finger and it focused on far objects . so this means focus is not working
Its the optical image stabilization not the auto focus. I can see the af trying to correct for the ois but the lens is constantly moving really fast making the picture all jumpy.
I can physically see the lens moving back and forth about a 32nd or 16th of an inch constantly
Hi Everyone,
Have a look at attached example image to see what I mean.
Please try to take a manual shot with your wide lens in a very dark environment with very high ISO (3200 in example) and exposure time of 5secs plus (20 secs in example).
Everyone who has tried that so far has the same issue, a big purple shadow on the top. It's most likely the laser and it won't happen with the normal lense.
Do you have the same result? Any suggestions what we can do about it?
Whoa! I haven't seen that in a long time. I think maybe around the time of the Nikon D80. I can't currently try this out personally but by the sounds of it what has happened is called Amp Glow. It's when you kind of start getting out of the bounds of what is really acceptable shooting conditions for a given sensor. In this case, if you really are shooting in conditions that call for high ISO AND still need a shutter speed of 20 seconds and the image still comes out that dark, then you're way beyond realistic expectations for shooting with a cellphone. In the older DSLRs, people would see it when doing star trail photos that were 10 minutes or longer. Frame stacking software became the solution to this problem by taking a lot of shorter photos and stacking them up and pulling through the new dots of light. (And this is still used by a lot of photographers as it also gets rid of other forms of noise.)
So what is happening? ISO is pretty much the gain. It's the amplification being applied to the signal coming off of the sensor. Ideally with ANY camera, you want to stay as close to the base ISO of a given sensor. That's usually the lowest ISO number. (There are some exceptions where some camera manufacturers have done some trickery to get a lower ISO to show up but that was short lived as it didn't really help things.) Unfortunately, image sensors are not hanging in space. They're packed in with a ton of other stuff. Stuff that gets warm. If that stuff is near an edge of the sensor, that heat bleeds into the sensor and then those warmed pixels get amplified by the higher ISO and next thing you know, Amp Glow. Well, that's the simplified version at least.
A cellphone, any cellphone, is not designed for those kinds of shots. If they were, they would have a tripod mount, a much better flash, and a much larger sensor. (Yeah, the flash on your cellphone is not meant to light up stuff much past 5 feet. Even the ones built into a DSLR aren't meant for much past about 15-20 feet.) The reality is that cellphones are designed for handheld shots with decent light. Even the larger sensor used in some cellphones shouldn't be expected to pull any miracles that top end DSLRs are just barely pulling off cleanly. For that shot, you would want to use a dedicated camera locked down on a tripod using base ISO and long exposure at the very least. Although, personally, I'd probably just take a pass on that shot.
someone on reddit has the exam same issue with the wide angle. and someone said it's in the regular too. weird. my s7 never had this purple hue when I did even 30 second exposure at night.
Sent from my LG V20 US996
something obstructing the lens maybe, or just camera went bad
Better hope this isn't the same problem the HTC one m7 had with the purple haze. The culprit was a light sensor on the camera would overhear and give a purple haze on the screen in low light. Place the phone face down and with the camera on and see if the purple comes back.
Sent from my LG-H910 using Tapatalk
Dark Jedi said:
Better hope this isn't the same problem the HTC one m7 had with the purple haze. The culprit was a light sensor on the camera would overhear and give a purple haze on the screen in low light. Place the phone face down and with the camera on and see if the purple comes back.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, it won't happen with the same ISO/Shutter settings I took the previously attached photo. But maybe that's because it's not dark enough. Did the M7 issue only happen in dark enviornment as well?
CHH2 said:
Whoa! I haven't seen that in a long time. I think maybe around the time of the Nikon D80. I can't currently try this out personally but by the sounds of it what has happened is called Amp Glow. It's when you kind of start getting out of the bounds of what is really acceptable shooting conditions for a given sensor. In this case, if you really are shooting in conditions that call for high ISO AND still need a shutter speed of 20 seconds and the image still comes out that dark, then you're way beyond realistic expectations for shooting with a cellphone. In the older DSLRs, people would see it when doing star trail photos that were 10 minutes or longer. Frame stacking software became the solution to this problem by taking a lot of shorter photos and stacking them up and pulling through the new dots of light. (And this is still used by a lot of photographers as it also gets rid of other forms of noise.)
So what is happening? ISO is pretty much the gain. It's the amplification being applied to the signal coming off of the sensor. Ideally with ANY camera, you want to stay as close to the base ISO of a given sensor. That's usually the lowest ISO number. (There are some exceptions where some camera manufacturers have done some trickery to get a lower ISO to show up but that was short lived as it didn't really help things.) Unfortunately, image sensors are not hanging in space. They're packed in with a ton of other stuff. Stuff that gets warm. If that stuff is near an edge of the sensor, that heat bleeds into the sensor and then those warmed pixels get amplified by the higher ISO and next thing you know, Amp Glow. Well, that's the simplified version at least.
A cellphone, any cellphone, is not designed for those kinds of shots. If they were, they would have a tripod mount, a much better flash, and a much larger sensor. (Yeah, the flash on your cellphone is not meant to light up stuff much past 5 feet. Even the ones built into a DSLR aren't meant for much past about 15-20 feet.) The reality is that cellphones are designed for handheld shots with decent light. Even the larger sensor used in some cellphones shouldn't be expected to pull any miracles that top end DSLRs are just barely pulling off cleanly. For that shot, you would want to use a dedicated camera locked down on a tripod using base ISO and long exposure at the very least. Although, personally, I'd probably just take a pass on that shot.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks a lot for the detailed explanation. My question here would be, why doesn't it happen to other phone-cameras with similar settings?
Kujoja said:
No, it won't happen with the same ISO/Shutter settings I took the previously attached photo. But maybe that's because it's not dark enough. Did the M7 issue only happen in dark enviornment as well?
Thanks a lot for the detailed explanation. My question here would be, why doesn't it happen to other phone-cameras with similar settings?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes the m7 only happened in low light / dark environment. Do a Google search for HTC one m7 purple haze. What caused me not to buy another htc phone
Sent from my LG-H910 using Tapatalk
Kujoja said:
No, it won't happen with the same ISO/Shutter settings I took the previously attached photo. But maybe that's because it's not dark enough. Did the M7 issue only happen in dark enviornment as well?
Thanks a lot for the detailed explanation. My question here would be, why doesn't it happen to other phone-cameras with similar settings?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Settings aren't the only part of the equation. The other par is the placement of other components within the device. I need to look at the tear downs to see how the various parts are placed next to each other but something is heating up and passing that heat to the sensor. Just off the top of my head there are four parts together; the two camera sensors, the laser focus module, and the flask module. Each one of those on its own will generate heat if used enough.
Dark Jedi said:
Yes the m7 only happened in low light / dark environment. Do a Google search for HTC one m7 purple haze. What caused me not to buy another htc phone
Sent from my LG-H910 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's the same issue. I haven't looked at the HTC issue but from your description of it, it's the same. Amp glow is what it is called in digital photography. (OK, silly that I said digital as you don't get amp glow in film.) The glow will show up because there is no other data coming off of the sensor for those pixels and the heat is amplified as "data".
---------- Post added at 05:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:59 PM ----------
Ok, just watched the JerryRigEverything repair tear down. The flash module sits right next to the wide angle and the laser focus next to the regular sensor. There is no mention as to what is sitting next to the sensors on the main board but I see silver boxes on each side with one having some sort of black and yellow warning sticker. Not sure what they are so I can't rope them in as culprits. So for now, I'd say it's a combo of the four units of the camera assembly.
Were you running the flash or one of the cameras a lot while you were playing around? Shooting a lot of long exposure shots in a row?
I'll get to test out some night shots and video tonight at a lighting ceremony but I'm still not expecting to shoot 3200 for 20 seconds type shots. Again, that's pretty extreme.