I have no luck finding out this info from the sellers so mabye some people who have purchased can help me. I want to put one of these in my cls500 mercedes but I have subs in the trunk. I know even the crappiest jvc 1din headunit has subwoofer preamp outs with independent woofer controls but these devices make me wary because they only have one rca out as opposed to two and they say nothing of woofer control.
tonghai create 2nd gen has independent sub out,
personally though I do not see the big deal with using the rear outs for the sub & controlling the sub w/ a knob. It's nice to control sub through the HU itself I guess, but making on-the-fly adjustments is still easier w/ a physical volume knob. Nearly any amp used for sub control should come w/ a volume knob.
IS joying sub port preamplified ? Poses problem to seperae powered subwoofer/amp ?
Hisma said:
personally though I do not see the big deal with using the rear outs for the sub & controlling the sub w/ a knob. It's nice to control sub through the HU itself I guess, but making on-the-fly adjustments is still easier w/ a physical volume knob. Nearly any amp used for sub control should come w/ a volume knob.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you know if the Joying units sub port is preamplifed ? Getting a sub with built in amp just in case but was wondering? It looks like on the back it has a dedicated sub out port. was going to get a y splitter and connect my powered subwoofer using the rca cables.
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was looking at this unit for a powered subwoofer
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113KSCSW11/Kenwood-KSC-SW11.html?tp=114
It should be line level like the rest of those ports. 2v-4v IIRC depending on the settings in the factory menu. I think its 150hz fixed cut off on the sub port. The other outs should be full range if you want to take care of the low pass filtering at the amp. In any case you will need an amp for the sub. It only powers the 4 main channels. FWIW I'd double check your amp if it even needs a Y cable. A lot of them can internally change it from mono to stereo.
PAC LC-1 Remote Amplifier Level Controller
danknasty said:
I have no luck finding out this info from the sellers so mabye some people who have purchased can help me. I want to put one of these in my cls500 mercedes but I have subs in the trunk. I know even the crappiest jvc 1din headunit has subwoofer preamp outs with independent woofer controls but these devices make me wary because they only have one rca out as opposed to two and they say nothing of woofer control.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sadly it cant be done on the unit.
But you can buy this kit PAC LC-1 Remote Amplifier Level Controller from amazon 10USD, to control the Sub lvl.
there are some videos How to in utube:good:.
I have one of these chinese full android car stereos but cannot control the sub from the HU.
Can nobody recommend an app that will simply see that you have a sub out and then give you a level for it? or does this have to be done at firmware level?
I simply bought an active external crossover which I connected between the SUB output and the subwoofer amplifier. Works great and lets me have full control to tune the subwoofer performance. As far as I know, there's no way to control the SUB output directly from the head unit, though some has gone to the lenghts of modifying the hardware with soldering some wires and cutting some traces to make it work on the older 4.4.4 units.
Hilari0 said:
I simply bought an active external crossover which I connected between the SUB output and the subwoofer amplifier. Works great and lets me have full control to tune the subwoofer performance. As far as I know, there's no way to control the SUB output directly from the head unit, though some has gone to the lenghts of modifying the hardware with soldering some wires and cutting some traces to make it work on the older 4.4.4 units.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ok - great - this was basically what i was going to do....but i have one more major question - between 0 and 10, what is the level of sound currently going to my subwoofer? if it is already on 10 by default, then the control is no use to me because the problem i have is that the sub is currently plugged in i can hardly hear it at all...will this increase the level if i turn it up to 10 or just give me what i am already getting?
excuse me if i sound a bit of a novice here...
Well, you can change the level with a crossover. I think the level is equal between the FL/FR and RL/RR outputs if the internal head unit sound equalizer is set to center. On the crossover I had, I set the level to max, which I believe is 0dB (unchanged) unless you add boost on a separate dial, and that works great for me.
Hilari0 said:
Well, you can change the level with a crossover. I think the level is equal between the FL/FR and RL/RR outputs if the internal head unit sound equalizer is set to center. On the crossover I had, I set the level to max, which I believe is 0dB (unchanged) unless you add boost on a separate dial, and that works great for me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
so are you sayin that if i add a control knob and put it on max it is basically going to give me the same level as i already have going to my rear amp without the knob? i dont get the point then?
If you run a crossover at 0dB. you will not have any gain in sound level on the sub. The beauty of an active crossover though, is that it offers a boost option which enables you to increase the level as well. In my setup, I drive the 4 speakers with the internal amp in the head unit, then I connect the SUB output to a active crossover, and then I use the low pass output to drive the factory installed sub-amplifier for the subwoofer. In my setup I didn't need any boost, I mainly needed to set a low pass frequency since the subwoofer was playing full range and not just low frequencies, albeit still being loud.
If you have the proper sound coming from the subwoofer, meaning it already has a low pass crossover built in but has too low level, you can try a signal level booster such as PAC audio LD-10. If you still need a low pass crossover, you may search for an active crossover with a good level booster or similar.
ok, so this is the stereo i have
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01CGA5DIU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
it has a sub out line - so i assume it is only sending max 120 frequency to my rear amp. As my sub already has an amp with a crossover built in i assume i dont need a crossover at the head unit end as well right?
The PAC level booster.....I assume it will need its own power source? otherwise how does it boost the sound?
Any active level booster will need power, usually 12V and a remote (usually blue antenna wire from head unit, some have a separate amp output, check your HU's wiring diagram). Any passive component without power supply can only dampen the signal, not amplify it.
The head unit you linked to is different from mine, I have a Joying JY-UL135N2 and there may be minor differences on how they function.
And yes, if your subwoofer amplifier already has a built in crossover, you won't need a separate active crossover. If the level is too low, the PAC LD-10 is what you need.
Hilari0 said:
Any active level booster will need power, usually 12V and a remote (usually blue antenna wire from head unit, some have a separate amp output, check your HU's wiring diagram). Any passive component without power supply can only dampen the signal, not amplify it.
The head unit you linked to is different from mine, I have a Joying JY-UL135N2 and there may be minor differences on how they function.
And yes, if your subwoofer amplifier already has a built in crossover, you won't need a separate active crossover. If the level is too low, the PAC LD-10 is what you need.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks again for your help.
So as i have just installed this stereo, i have the option of returning it and buying a different one. I have found the one (below) which actually has a subwoofer control built into the firmware (see picture 3 on the product). In your opinion would this sort my issue out? bearing in mind i already have an amp and sub at the back so just need a decnt line out with a way of increasing and decreasing the subwoofer level:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/k5c/Pump...F8&qid=1483121920&sr=8-1&keywords=pumpkin+dsp
Maybe, depends on the design of the lineout. If the one you already have installed has a poor design for the line out, giving a low level, then yes better head unit could solve it. But if it has the same design, meaning it gives something like 2V or so on the output, then it will be the same. As far as I know, none of these Chinese Android head units have high performance 5+V outputs like you find in good head units from Kenwood/Sony/Pioneer etc.
Hilari0 said:
Maybe, depends on the design of the lineout. If the one you already have installed has a poor design for the line out, giving a low level, then yes better head unit could solve it. But if it has the same design, meaning it gives something like 2V or so on the output, then it will be the same. As far as I know, none of these Chinese Android head units have high performance 5+V outputs like you find in good head units from Kenwood/Sony/Pioneer etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ok - so it may be better to get the PAC booster anyway and leave my head unit the way it is...the problem with the quality brands is they dont run full android like these....and i cant be bothered with the mirroring features they have - this is not good enough for me - i like it to run its own apps.
I'm with you there, I'm extremely unimpressed by the bad efforts from the likes of Kenwood/Pioneer/Sony in making a good head unit with Android. Yes, they do have great hardware in terms of sound and sound processing, but terrible CPU and low res screens as well as low memory. And then they cost a lot.
That's why I went for a Joying unit, 2GB ram, a decent Intel CPU and 32GB internal storage as well as a good screen, all at a great price. To get all of this, I don't mind to work around some of the weaknesses found on these..
Hilari0 said:
I'm with you there, I'm extremely unimpressed by the bad efforts from the likes of Kenwood/Pioneer/Sony in making a good head unit with Android. Yes, they do have great hardware in terms of sound and sound processing, but terrible CPU and low res screens as well as low memory. And then they cost a lot.
That's why I went for a Joying unit, 2GB ram, a decent Intel CPU and 32GB internal storage as well as a good screen, all at a great price. To get all of this, I don't mind to work around some of the weaknesses found on these..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
remind me, do you have a sub? has it got its own amp? and what was your workaround for the low power line out to the sub?
I have a '05 Ford Expedition with a "Audiophile premium sound system", which has a factory installed subwoofer with its own amplifier. I didn't have an issue with low level, only the lack of a crossover which I solved by installing an active crossover.
Related
Hello, for my new car ( Subaru BRZ 2015 series blue) i want to replace original headunit from Subaru with something better. I looked at marked, and only Parrot RNB 6 was up to the task, but it was only demo, no units will be sold.
So i started to search tablet/phone, that could be converted to headunit, most important, it must be fast, high quality large display, no buttons, drilling or anything on touchscreen, and so on. I was unable to find anythink that will fit inside 20x10cm space ( yes, nexus 7 would be good, but i don't like this device for some reason)
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So i get Nvidia Shield 16GB wifi model. Now i have a lot of skills in analog and digital electronics ( apart from usb/lan and other high level communication), so i want to get few ideas how to create/mimic original headunit features. i will name each with number, and if some one has good idea how to do it, please attach the number to message, to keep it simple.
1) Turn on with ignition and turn off with engine as normal head units do. I think i will add much larger battery keep it alive, and use MCU for voltage monitoring, so it will disable battery if it discharge main battery too much. like 13V cutoff.
2) Ability to connect to phone via blue-tooth, so it will use it's own speakers and mic for conversation. usual headunit functionality. I will connect mic to car original microphone location, same for speakers.
3) better audio, i will use original stereo speakers or microphone jack in order to get sound. I will do amplification myself. I will try to make my won audio dsp, that will handle some effects, and create small delay from original signal into back speakers, for 3D sound effect.
4) Use cameras as video registrator and backup cameras. Car does have reverse signal , so it will be nice to integrate it somehow, also will try to play with USB video class cameras, that could be used as video registration,just will it record in background and do video loop ? Or just delete original file after travel and use 32/64gb card.
5) motion based video/pictures capture, since Nvidia Shield does have multi-axis accelerometer it would be nice to capture images video when car is parked, and moved, this would be so nice to have
6) does any one have other simple ideas? Remember, i am good with power electronics, micro controllers ( high end ones, no arduino for me, too slow), audio dsp processors and so one.
kilohercas said:
2) Ability to connect to phone via blue-tooth, so it will use it's own speakers and mic for conversation. usual headunit functionality. I will connect mic to car original microphone location, same for speakers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you mean trying to turn the shield into what looks like a BT headset, my understanding is that this is POSSIBLE, but that it's a huge amount of work.
I think it's Qualcomm that has code for this, so it might be feasible mostly on Qualcomm BT/combo chips. The effort required seems to be akin to creating your own ROM. I think somebody, somewhere, may have done this once on some device.
I think your biggest need is software, lots and lots of software, requiring lots of work and tweaking to get exactly what you want.
Who is going to build and maintain this software ?
Best chances are with devices that are VERY popular, like Nexus 7 2013 (and yet I think nobody has ever turned an N7 into a BT headset equivalent), And 2013 is 2 years ago and Google no longer sells it (but $150 new on Amazon etc.)
More obscure devices have little chance of finding developers when MUCH more popular devices have found few devs.
Frankly I think you are much better off using one of the CarJoying.com , etc headunits. There is more than just an android tablet to them. There is quite a bit of additional hardware, and even a separate micro-controller running a whole bunch of firmware at a very low level, to tie it all together.
For the cost of these headunits ($200-$300) its not worth it at all to try to build your own, and whatever you have will never be as functional using a regular tablet as the base.
It would be nice to use tablet, because hardware usually is at lest one order of magnitude better than any car head unit. Display is full HD, not 800x480, also, it is larger, and is around 20cmx12cm ( so i will have to create my own front panel to mount it, but i think i can do a good job too)
Lookup Nvidia Shield tablet specifications, can you find any headunit, at least 2x less powerful ? No, you can't !
Processor NVIDIA® Tegra® K1 192 core Kepler GPU 2.2 GHz ARM Cortex A15 CPU with 2GB RAM
Display 8-inch 1920x1200 multi-touch Full HD display
Audio Front facing stereo speakers, dual bass reflex port with built-in microphone
Wireless 802.11n 2x2 Mimo 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz Wi-Fi Bluetooth 4.0 LE GPS / GLONASS
Regarding power up/down, it looks like i could use original feature, to keep LCD alive if charging is plugged, just question how to clear all programs, so it would consume as little power as possible ?
kilohercas said:
It would be nice to use tablet, because hardware usually is at lest one order of magnitude better than any car head unit. Display is full HD, not 800x480, also, it is larger, and is around 20cmx12cm ( so i will have to create my own front panel to mount it, but i think i can do a good job too)
Lookup Nvidia Shield tablet specifications, can you find any headunit, at least 2x less powerful ? No, you can't !
Processor NVIDIA® Tegra® K1 192 core Kepler GPU 2.2 GHz ARM Cortex A15 CPU with 2GB RAM
Display 8-inch 1920x1200 multi-touch Full HD display
Audio Front facing stereo speakers, dual bass reflex port with built-in microphone
Wireless 802.11n 2x2 Mimo 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz Wi-Fi Bluetooth 4.0 LE GPS / GLONASS
Regarding power up/down, it looks like i could use original feature, to keep LCD alive if charging is plugged, just question how to clear all programs, so it would consume as little power as possible ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The 1024x600 screen is more then enough for an in dash. I'm VERY pleased with mine, I even bought a Nexus 7 with the same thoughts as you but to get even half the functionality that my CarJoying head unit has would have taken years. It's also got the quad core processor and is very quick, in fact it works better then my Nexus 7 does since Lollipop killed my 7.
kilohercas said:
It would be nice to use tablet, because hardware usually is at lest one order of magnitude better than any car head unit. Display is full HD, not 800x480, also, it is larger, and is around 20cmx12cm ( so i will have to create my own front panel to mount it, but i think i can do a good job too)
Lookup Nvidia Shield tablet specifications, can you find any headunit, at least 2x less powerful ? No, you can't !
Processor NVIDIA® Tegra® K1 192 core Kepler GPU 2.2 GHz ARM Cortex A15 CPU with 2GB RAM
Display 8-inch 1920x1200 multi-touch Full HD display
Audio Front facing stereo speakers, dual bass reflex port with built-in microphone
Wireless 802.11n 2x2 Mimo 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz Wi-Fi Bluetooth 4.0 LE GPS / GLONASS
Regarding power up/down, it looks like i could use original feature, to keep LCD alive if charging is plugged, just question how to clear all programs, so it would consume as little power as possible ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's not about power, it's about integration. I have 3 Shield LTE tabs in my household, along with a car audio install that I'm gearing up to compete in MECA's ModEx sound quality class next season.
I tried the Shield route. I wanted it to work, I really did. There were just too many small issues that added up to an overall big headache... The OTG integration just isn't there, for one. The Joycon for the steering wheel controls is, well, not the best. I was constantly having to unplug / replug the OTG cable to get an external drive and outboard DAC to recognize. EasyCap for the backup camera is kludgey at best. And, let's face it, it takes forever to boot up and running the thing sans battery with a direct wire connection is still an amperage hog even in standby.
I ran the Pioneer AppRadio 3 with AppRadio Unchained to get full Android access with an RK3288 HDMI stick for awhile, then upgraded to the Pioneer 8100 NEX with the same stick, but the occasional bluetooth hang preventing me from having touchscreen access on both decks wasn't cutting it.
I now use the Newsmy NU3001 and couldn't be happier. The display is perfect for the car, for competition I use an HDMI audio splitter to feed optical to my DSP to play FLAC files. If I need to play a CD, I have an Alpine changer with optical out also going into my DSP.
All I can tell you is good luck. I hope you have more patience than I did.
I understand, that for some users that will be hard to do.
my basic needs are very easy to integrate, navigation/music/power_up/power_down. This is very easy to manage with additional microcontroller ( and i am good at that), that takes control over volume buttons, power button, and i can do power management based on do i get power from car, and if yes, what is voltage on car's battery, so i could do intelligent decision will i keep tablet in standby ( locked screen) mode, or i should disconnect power all together to drain no power at all.
By looking at screen back light, and voltage levels on connection to the car, i can lock or unlock device, so this take care of basic functionality, i will also add few capacitive buttons for volume control on panel itself. And i know that were is a program, that will pause audio, if some one press power button, so i get last bit of functionality i need.
Car does not have any volume or other buttons on the steering wheel or anything, and original head unit from Subaru BRZ only could manage calls, sms messages from phone, and play music, and do navigations. So i can reproduce at least 75% of original head unit functionality simply by using 12V-> 5V USB charger. Original amplifier is in the back on th car, so i can use speakers output as my main audio. That it !
Hi there,
I'm still in my internal debate of doing a tablet car install (like Galaxy Tab S2 8 inch) or getting an Android Headunit to avoid all the install struggles.
So I have been looking around on different forums for quite a while to find a REALLY working combo with an Android Head unit on Android 8.0 and a USB DAC. I would prefer an optical out DAC. Have you any positive experiences and suggestions of both models that would fit ?
I'm planning on getting a Sabre ES9010 based DAC or a Sabre ES9010K2M.
Anyone got it working with an head unit ?
By the way, I'm aware of the issues with the volume with the radio and bluetooth. I will be using a MiniDSP 6x8 with it in a MK5 golf.
i work with joying headunit + with sabre u2 dac.
the volume little loud even when i set it to one. ( i also add more step no change)
for bt call i connect a speaker to the internal amp of headunit, for me its better because my external sound processor add delay to the speakers. ( the speaker work on bt call and radio. )
if u have a physical volume is better, u can try Fain volume control v2 or Precise volume to get the volume more dynamic.
RoNeReR said:
i work with joying headunit + with sabre u2 dac.
the volume little loud even when i set it to one. ( i also add more step no change)
for bt call i connect a speaker to the internal amp of headunit, for me its better because my external sound processor add delay to the speakers. ( the speaker work on bt call and radio. )
if u have a physical volume is better, u can try Fain volume control v2 or Precise volume to get the volume more dynamic.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You need an Intel based joying unit. They are still being sold. Works!
Thanks for your answers. So I guess any Sabre DAC world work ! Good news.
RoNeReR said:
i work with joying headunit + with sabre u2 dac.
the volume little loud even when i set it to one. ( i also add more step no change)
for bt call i connect a speaker to the internal amp of headunit, for me its better because my external sound processor add delay to the speakers. ( the speaker work on bt call and radio. )
if u have a physical volume is better, u can try Fain volume control v2 or Precise volume to get the volume more dynamic.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I guess I can connect both RCA out from HU to DSP swell as the Optical out. It should be quite easy to switch from one input to another and remove the delay compensation probably.
What specific model are you using from joying ?
gtxaspec said:
You need an Intel based joying unit. They are still being sold. Works!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What about other models like PX5 that contains 4GB RAM and such ? Sabre DAC are not supposed to work on ARM as well ?
Hypnox99 said:
Thanks for your answers. So I guess any Sabre DAC world work ! Good news.
I guess I can connect both RCA out from HU to DSP swell as the Optical out. It should be quite easy to switch from one input to another and remove the delay compensation probably.
What specific model are you using from joying ?
What about other models like PX5 that contains 4GB RAM and such ? Sabre DAC are not supposed to work on ARM as well ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The problem is the software on the head unit, the 4gb models are made by a different vendor. The PX 2gb units are made by the same vendor as the Intel, so we know the USB devices work well.
gtxaspec said:
The problem is the software on the head unit, the 4gb models are made by a different vendor. The PX 2gb units are made by the same vendor as the Intel, so we know the USB devices work well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you very much for answering me. So alright, I see. But I guess the Intel units present the same following problems like : 44.1khz/16 bit playback max, no knob volume control and some applications playing only through the HU audio chip?
Because if the 44.1khz/16 bit problem is fixable as well as all of the applications can play though the USB Dac (not mentioning radio or bt audio since I don't care of thoses so much) the Android HU will get interesting...
On another note, do theses head unit run smooth for quite while and will get Android updates? I didn't see any of the Intel based shipped with Android 8.
Still in my internal debate of tablet dash install vs Android HU vs Western brands Android Auto capable stereo...
So again thanks a lot
QUOTE-Because if the 44.1khz/16 bit problem is fixable as well as all of the applications can play though the USB Dac (not mentioning radio or bt audio since I don't care of thoses so much) the Android HU will get interesting...
On another note, do theses head unit run smooth for quite while and will get Android updates? I didn't see any of the Intel based shipped with Android 8.
--ENDQUOTE
Firstly I personally don't regard 44khz and 16bit audio as a "problem". It is more than adequate for reproduction in a vehicle with all the other attendant noise sources, especially with a window or sunroof open.
Head unit manufacturers are way way behind other Android tablet and 'phone manufacturers by the order of about 2 years. They are still selling and promoting Kit Kat head units. You probably won't see any Android 8 units for another couple of years, if you are very lucky you may find a Nougat unit to suit your vehicle.
Good hunting, Tony.
vidtek said:
QUOTE-Because if the 44.1khz/16 bit problem is fixable as well as all of the applications can play though the USB Dac (not mentioning radio or bt audio since I don't care of thoses so much) the Android HU will get interesting...
On another note, do theses head unit run smooth for quite while and will get Android updates? I didn't see any of the Intel based shipped with Android 8.
--ENDQUOTE
Firstly I personally don't regard 44khz and 16bit audio as a "problem". It is more than adequate for reproduction in a vehicle with all the other attendant noise sources, especially with a window or sunroof open.
Head unit manufacturers are way way behind other Android tablet and 'phone manufacturers by the order of about 2 years. They are still selling and promoting Kit Kat head units. You probably won't see any Android 8 units for another couple of years, if you are very lucky you may find a Nougat unit to suit your vehicle.
Good hunting, Tony.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok then, the Android version does not matters that much. Seems like Android 6 is OK. Thanks.
I have been looking around and found that some people can get the HDMI out from a PX3 7.1 HU to a box that will extract the audio and feed it as optical to a DSP. Is this advisable ? I guess the volume knob will work with it and after all it will be "as good" as a USB DAC out. I understood that the problem are the converters before the RCA out...
On a side note I was thinking about Joying Intel Sofia for vw golf, I have found some Android 6 units, but can't seem to find one with HDMI out. Only Xtrons PX3 seem to have HDMI out for the units made specifically for the vw golf.
So if I understand well, when I'm using a USB DAC, only bluetooth audio and radio will go through the RCA out ? Anything else will go through the DAC ? If using on a Sofia Intel.
I have also been looking at Android Audio to USB, something like the MiniDSP USB Streamer, any thoughts ?
Many many questions again
Hypnox99 said:
Ok then, the Android version does not matters that much. Seems like Android 6 is OK. Thanks.
I have been looking around and found that some people can get the HDMI out from a PX3 7.1 HU to a box that will extract the audio and feed it as optical to a DSP. Is this advisable ? I guess the volume knob will work with it and after all it will be "as good" as a USB DAC out. I understood that the problem are the converters before the RCA out...
On a side note I was thinking about Joying Intel Sofia for vw golf, I have found some Android 6 units, but can't seem to find one with HDMI out. Only Xtrons PX3 seem to have HDMI out for the units made specifically for the vw golf.
So if I understand well, when I'm using a USB DAC, only bluetooth audio and radio will go through the RCA out ? Anything else will go through the DAC ? If using on a Sofia Intel.
I have also been looking at Android Audio to USB, something like the MiniDSP USB Streamer, any thoughts ?
Many many questions again
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hypnox-
I installed a Joying in mine, a VW EOS, and since doing the Heatsink/fan modification, I have been quite satisfied with it's performance. They supply all the looms and can-bus interface to suit your model car and it is the easiest plug and play install imaginable, takes 5 minutes.
I was in the same position as you, although not as fixated on the sound fidelity I was choosing between a tablet and head unit solution. I am VERY glad I chose the head unit, the finished install looks like an OEM unit and performs with very few hiccups. See the piccies of mine below. The unit I chose was a UK-JY-VM130N2D, it has a digital amplifier and 2 MicroSD card slots on the front (I have used them with up to 128gb MicroSD cards) and most importantly for me a physical volume knob.
Cheers Tony.
vidtek said:
Hypnox-
I installed a Joying in mine, a VW EOS, and since doing the Heatsink/fan modification, I have been quite satisfied with it's performance. They supply all the looms and can-bus interface to suit your model car and it is the easiest plug and play install imaginable, takes 5 minutes.
I was in the same position as you, although not as fixated on the sound fidelity I was choosing between a tablet and head unit solution. I am VERY glad I chose the head unit, the finished install looks like an OEM unit and performs with very few hiccups. See the piccies of mine below. The unit I chose was a UK-JY-VM130N2D, it has a digital amplifier and 2 MicroSD card slots on the front (I have used them with up to 128gb MicroSD cards) and most importantly for me a physical volume knob.
Cheers Tony.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I forgot to post a picture of the finished job, see below. Pic 1 is original MFD2 VW unit, pic 2 the Joying.
Tony
This is some nice unit there Thank you for your input ! By the way this is exactly the Sofia Intel based unit I have my eyes on. I will certainly make the same mod as you if I pull the trigger on this one and the integration into the dash is very sexy
I'm still trying to figure out the HDMI out audio extraction if possible on PX3 Xtrons unit... I might send Xtrons a mail, but not sure if they will reply. Also trying to know if spotify can use USB dac for audio out... Damn, finding the "somewhat" good unit is not easy task.
Hypnox99 said:
This is some nice unit there Thank you for your input ! By the way this is exactly the Sofia Intel based unit I have my eyes on. I will certainly make the same mod as you if I pull the trigger on this one and the integration into the dash is very sexy
I'm still trying to figure out the HDMI out audio extraction if possible on PX3 Xtrons unit... I might send Xtrons a mail, but not sure if they will reply. Also trying to know if spotify can use USB dac for audio out... Damn, finding the "somewhat" good unit is not easy task.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hypnox- You seem to be hypnotised (pun intended) by sound quality. I am a video/ audio engineer with 50 years experience. I have installed hundreds of home theatre hif-fi and casino/night club PA systems.
As we age, our hearing deteriorates rapidly from the age of 12 onwards. In today's world with attendant noise pollution, headphone use, aircraft and motor noise and concert visits, our hearing is far worse than previous generations at an earlier age. Most people over 30 will have difficulty hearing any signal over 12,000khz.
There is a hearing testing app in the google play store, https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=mobile.eaudiologia&hl=en using headphone/earbuds why don't you check your own hearing before embarking on a quest for excellent sound in your equipment, you could well save yourself a bundle of dosh and a heap of time!
As we age, the viscocity of the fluid in our ears gets thicker, which is why older people hate the boom boom of bass notes youngsters love so much, it literally resounds inside our heads and is painful. Older folks turn up the treble/high equaliser settings in a vain attempt to hear those high notes we once could hear. This in turn is painful to young people who cannot stand high levels of higher frequencies, because they can actually hear them!
When you try to put a high-fidelity sound system into a car environment, you are basically pushing sh*t uphill. As soon as you open a window, all the careful measurements an audio installer makes literally goes out of the window.
My advice, forget hifi in a car, it's is a nonsense. If you must have hifi in your car, use headphones and let someone else do the driving.
Sorry for the lecture, you don't want to get me started on the monster cable and oxygen-free cable rip-offs
Cheers Tony.
vidtek said:
Hypnox- You seem to be hypnotised (pun intended) by sound quality. I am a video/ audio engineer with 50 years experience. I have installed hundreds of home theatre hif-fi and casino/night club PA systems.
As we age, our hearing deteriorates rapidly from the age of 12 onwards. In today's world with attendant noise pollution, headphone use, aircraft and motor noise and concert visits, our hearing is far worse than previous generations at an earlier age. Most people over 30 will have difficulty hearing any signal over 12,000khz.
There is a hearing testing app in the google play store, https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=mobile.eaudiologia&hl=en using headphone/earbuds why don't you check your own hearing before embarking on a quest for excellent sound in your equipment, you could well save yourself a bundle of dosh and a heap of time!
As we age, the viscocity of the fluid in our ears gets thicker, which is why older people hate the boom boom of bass notes youngsters love so much, it literally resounds inside our heads and is painful. Older folks turn up the treble/high equaliser settings in a vain attempt to hear those high notes we once could hear. This in turn is painful to young people who cannot stand high levels of higher frequencies, because they can actually hear them!
When you try to put a high-fidelity sound system into a car environment, you are basically pushing sh*t uphill. As soon as you open a window, all the careful measurements an audio installer makes literally goes out of the window.
My advice, forget hifi in a car, it's is a nonsense. If you must have hifi in your car, use headphones and let someone else do the driving.
Sorry for the lecture, you don't want to get me started on the monster cable and oxygen-free cable rip-offs
Cheers Tony.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I understand your point of view, I certainly don't have the same Audio background as you.
However I'm 28 and a music producer and I can certainly tell the difference between pairs of monitoring speaker. Through the years (still a lot to learn though) I have developed my hear in mixing sessions. And I have a passion for listening to music as well.
I have replaced the stock HU of my car with a 100$ Sony last year and I can tell straight away the difference in sound quality. I also made an audio car install on another car and the difference between the stock system is stunning.
Here, I just want to have a decent audio quality, I know that in car audio there is some serious diminishing return when you build your system.
If you take a look on XDA and like diymobileaudio, you will find hundreds of threads stating that the audio quality is poor even in a car...
You know, If for 50$ I can get a DAC working pretty well with it and that it won't crush the audio quality, I'm all for it
Hypnox99 said:
I understand your point of view, I certainly don't have the same Audio background as you.
However I'm 28 and a music producer and I can certainly tell the difference between pairs of monitoring speaker. Through the years (still a lot to learn though) I have developed my hear in mixing sessions. And I have a passion for listening to music as well.
I have replaced the stock HU of my car with a 100$ Sony last year and I can tell straight away the difference in sound quality. I also made an audio car install on another car and the difference between the stock system is stunning.
Here, I just want to have a decent audio quality, I know that in car audio there is some serious diminishing return when you build your system.
If you take a look on XDA and like diymobileaudio, you will find hundreds of threads stating that the audio quality is poor even in a car...
You know, If for 50$ I can get a DAC working pretty well with it and that it won't crush the audio quality, I'm all for it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hypnox- OK at 28 your hearing will be far superior to mine-especially as in my mis-spent youth I was in a rock band before health and safety went bananas, we always used the same stage layout so my right ear is shall we say, less than perfect?
I just hate to see people spending money on a system which as you say is subject to the law of diminishing returns when they could be spending it on other leisure pursuits, or food and housing.....
As long as you get a system that floats your boat and you personally are satisfied, who can gainsay that?
Good luck to you, Tony.
Bump. Would love to get an update on the status of that quest of knowledge.
Please can someone help? I really want (as many of you) to use an external DAC (standard PCM2704) with and android HU. It works with my Android 5.1 Tablet but I am really looking for a compatible HU.
Do you have a model that works with USB DAC? I want a recent one available to buy on market.
Thanks
Lets make this Thread a nice help for everyone
So here is my DAC setup and I can say that the sound is so much better. And with an external eq, it is easy to have access to the Bluetooth and the other things you have inside you Head Units until we find a way to send all the signal to the DAC !!!
First of all,
My head Unit is a: XTRONS TE706PL
To go the DAC way, I brought a preamp CLARION EQS755 and an AudioQuest DRAGONFLY RED
The only problem was that I was getting Pops and bizarre sound out of the signal chain.
I get a AmazonBasics 4-Port USB 2.0 Ultra-Mini Hub and I now connect the DAC and the POPS are almost gone now ( it was a current problem i guess ) Only some bizarre sound comes now and then Flash drive is loading. ( only in DAC MODE )
Upgrade for the future
AUDIOQUEST JITTERBUG will change for the IFI ISILENCER
CHORD MOJO or something in that caliber as an EXTERNAL DAC. ( in about 5 month ) as i need some money
I did a some video to show you the difference in quality and the pops I am talking about
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1LEBDARV6GRV_wF3pInB1fgjwm4Aw8Gbf
UPDATED
Just receive my IFI ISILENCER , I can say that the sound is about 1 to 4 % better with it. I test it in my car and in my house. It kinda makes a difference but you need to really focus to hear it.
I still have that computer distortion coming from both my HEAD UNIT and my main computer. ( this have to be regularize before the current goes to the head unit I guess )
have a good day.
Have a good day everyone !
Did anyone figure out a way to get the android volum control to turn up and down the usb audio output. ??
Hi all. Id thought Id start another thread regarding the SQ of this device.
Iv always used Alpine Head Units for last 20 years but bit the bullet and bought this device to try and bring my ICE into the future a bit.
My system is HU - RCA's - C-DSP6x8 - RCA's - 3xJL amps - Focal Utopias (6w2/TN51)/2x JL ZR800's/1x JL 13W3
+ a shed load of experience with Room EQ wizard and at least 2 years of my life I won't get back!
In comparison I can say the SQ of the pumpkin sucks, also a bit of ground noise I never had before.
Will a USB DAC work with this unit?
Which one? I read a thread where someone used a USB to SPDIF converter board with Texas instruments chip on board, very simple which is good and cost less than a tenner from Amazon! then there's dragonfly dongles, then there's miniDSP's MiniDAC8. Price range between £10 & £200
Also I was always under the impression if you use a digital signal from your source unit you cannot control the volume from that source unit as bits and bytes cannot be attenuated so the volume control would be from the DSP(via the wired remote)
Can anyone suggest a tried and tested setup for getting a clean signal from this source to my DSP that wont break the bank, (Bit One out of the question) I think Iv spent enough on my system now as its probably worth more than my car! (B7 audi a4 3.0tdi)
Thanks
ps I am a complete Android programming noob but can learn with a bit of help
from Lollipop there is dac native support on all devices, so it should work.
in joying headunit the radio and bluetooth not work with the dac, u can add small speaker for the bt, or connect another rca pair to the sound processor if the pumpkin also suffer this problem.
i recommend the hifimediy, be aware that spdif its digital connection so its really not important which dac u choose , the conversion from analog to digital will process on your c-dsp
u can see dac support here:
http://www.extreamsd.com/index.php/technology/usb-audio-driver
Hi and thanks for reply. I looked at the DAC you use and read through that link. Another good thing about the external DAC is any analogue ground noise from the device should be isolated. There is ground noise on this units RCA outputs (to be expected on a device in this price range) once you rig up the bluetooth/radio via rca's anywhere into the chain that noise will be re-introduced. I'm not sure there's a way round this issue but its a minor one.
The HiFimeDIY also has spdif out so if connecting to my DSP with digital coax I assume the volume pot wouldn't work? Not a problem since any DAC will have it own analogue volume control I can use the master volume (after DSP). Still if I connected BT/radio via RCA that volume would be controlled by the device. Unless somehow I set everything up for max volume and use just the master to control everything. I have a lot more learning experimenting ahead!
This could be a deal breaker:- Will spotify ouput be routed through the DAC?
mamba76 said:
Hi and thanks for reply. I looked at the DAC you use and read through that link. Another good thing about the external DAC is any analogue ground noise from the device should be isolated. There is ground noise on this units RCA outputs (to be expected on a device in this price range) once you rig up the bluetooth/radio via rca's anywhere into the chain that noise will be re-introduced. I'm not sure there's a way round this issue but its a minor one.
The HiFimeDIY also has spdif out so if connecting to my DSP with digital coax I assume the volume pot wouldn't work? Not a problem since any DAC will have it own analogue volume control I can use the master volume (after DSP). Still if I connected BT/radio via RCA that volume would be controlled by the device. Unless somehow I set everything up for max volume and use just the master to control everything. I have a lot more learning experimenting ahead!
This could be a deal breaker:- Will spotify ouput be routed through the DAC?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes it will.
Thx GTX its got be worth pursuing then
The model of my unit is AE0273B on autopumpkin. Does anyone know for sure that BT/radio/DAB wouldn't be routed through a USB DAC? Would be interesting to know why?
Should I be looking to root this so I can have Viper4Android installed or Neutron player? I just want to unlock the potential for quality audio out, I dont need to tweek the signal or colour it I would like the output flat but a good PEQ app would be helpful.
Using a multimeter and oscilloscope I swept a pure 0db sine wave through the Alpine and the AC voltage from the pre-out only deviated by about 0.01vac from 30hz upto 10k then it climbed a bit more. Done same thing on the Pumpkin and highest unclipped Vac is 1.2vac at 1khz, at 30hz it dropped to 0.5v and same with higher frequencies, just like a sad smile lol. I want a DAC with a flat frequency response and a 4volt pre-out.
The floor noise / ground noise was made worse because I had to increase input gain cos of the crappy pre-outs.
I could do with some help customizing this for quality audio so if anyone's in the same boat and wants to trade ideas Im open to test things on my device and help out where I can.
what apps & DAC's work for you? digital or analogue cabling? What DSPs? Anything regarding SQ is interesting to me
I think Iv taken one step forward and 2 steps back but I'm committed now lol.
Just found and read through this thread - https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...io-problems-discussion-thread-t3657637/page11
Aluver seems to be able to fix this issue.
The pumpkin is still a great bit of kit for the price and to be fair I used the buggy built in amplifier app to adjust the eq to a V shape, pulling down 1khz (in the middle)as the lowest point (-6db) and as no surprise I think this has cured the problem this HU caused with the SQ. At low volume my target curve in REW appeared the same its only at high volume when the pre-amp output deviations are at their most extreme (sad smile) which is why it sounded too harsh.
Im really not sure if I would be able to tell the difference from a 100% digital system with high quality DAC and my old alpine setup but it does solve a few problems.
Still have excessive ground noise and amp pop when ignition turned off (never had before) so not sure if Ill be keeping this unit, so maybe up for UK sale in near future!
Really interesting thread, are you planning to buy the DAC finally ? It would be interesting to try a DAC, just to get rid of the ground noise for example.
Seeing your setup, if the source has crappy output you will hear it right away so your EQ modification is quite surprising that it improves the quality that much ! I'm still thinking about pulling the trigger on a model similar as you but very afraid of sound quality. Still trying to decide between Joying Intel or Xtrons PX5
Im going to give it a bit more time to see if I can get it to behave. Iv has this set up with the alpine for a couple of years and am always tweaking / improving so Im very aware of any change. If it hurts your ears at high volume then somethings wrong. The alpine's FR was completely flat and clips just over 2v, the pumpkin clips at different voltages (max 1.3v) but on this unit anything above vol 20 with pure tones will clip, its just a pain in the ass but if you always eq your car with high volume in mind for me that's where it matters. Dont rely on tone generator apps their 0db is not accurate I burnt the test wave files from JL audio website to CD as a reference then match it with Room EQs generator so can sweep any frequency.
Yeah Im gonna look for a DAC would be nice if you could control the DACs volume from steering wheel! And the auto switching rca's it doable or might as well go digital to dsp not sure yet its all a bit of a headache lol, but the units capabilities makes it worth trying. I will post any solutions on here if I find them but may be some time.
Im still trying to work out what this unit gives me that an alpine ilx-f903 (or similar) won't, apart from alot of spare change!
Im sure Iv read pros and cons for either them units but don't know enough about whats inside. I know mines a px5. I would be looking for something that can output everything through USB but not sure it exists.
ordered a minidsp usb streamer from amazon £60 delivered +van damme digi cable. First step see what it does out of the box then install 'USB Audio Driver Pro' app which will bypass the native android drivers??
I think this requires usb debugging mode to be enabled in developer options.
I found a switching module that might come in handy - https://www.tindie.com/products/Beni_Skate/automatic-spdif-opticalrca-audio-switch/#product-reviews
If anyone understands what Im trying to do and can foresee what needs to be done regarding operating system changes I would definately appreciate any advice as Iv no experience at all with the programming side of things i.e changing audio policies, etc...
I should be playing with this again at weekend if all the bits arrive
RoNeReR said:
from Lollipop there is dac native support on all devices, so it should work.
in joying headunit the radio and bluetooth not work with the dac, u can add small speaker for the bt, or connect another rca pair to the sound processor if the pumpkin also suffer this problem.
i recommend the hifimediy, be aware that spdif its digital connection so its really not important which dac u choose , the conversion from analog to digital will process on your c-dsp
u can see dac support here:
http://www.extreamsd.com/index.php/technology/usb-audio-driver
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi RoNeReR. I see your usb dac outputs on analogue rca's. Do you still control the volume from the pumpkin?
Thx
Well as promised I will update this thread with my progress to get my system setup with the pumpkin.
I got my mini streamer but digi cable not arrived yet.
So I enabled developer options which was easy but couldn't find the menu anywhere afterwards, eventually downloaded an app call 'developer options' which does what is says on the tin. I found usb debugging mode was already on then went to 'usb configuration' and set to 'Audio'. Plugged in my ministream and was expecting the audio from spotify to go quiet as is should now be trying to route through the streamer but it didn't appear to change anything. I get a feeling when I eventually get the cable and connect to the dsp I will still have nothing. Anyone know what else I need to do to make audio goes through USB? ASIO drivers?
As I said Iv no experience with android OS but Im learning more and more things, so happy days!
mamba76 said:
Well as promised I will update this thread with my progress to get my system setup with the pumpkin.
I got my mini streamer but digi cable not arrived yet.
So I enabled developer options which was easy but couldn't find the menu anywhere afterwards, eventually downloaded an app call 'developer options' which does what is says on the tin. I found usb debugging mode was already on then went to 'usb configuration' and set to 'Audio'. Plugged in my ministream and was expecting the audio from spotify to go quiet as is should now be trying to route through the streamer but it didn't appear to change anything. I get a feeling when I eventually get the cable and connect to the dsp I will still have nothing. Anyone know what else I need to do to make audio goes through USB? ASIO drivers?
As I said Iv no experience with android OS but Im learning more and more things, so happy days!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The problem is the software and hardware combination needs modifications (software) to generally work. We have this working on the joying Intel, and hopefully soon on the joying px5 (FYT based) units. Nother brands might not be possible depending on the original manufacturers programming.
If other users with your unit, maybe they have experience. Generally only working on the joying with Xposed properly.
gtxaspec said:
The problem is the software and hardware combination needs modifications (software) to generally work. We have this working on the joying Intel, and hopefully soon on the joying px5 (FYT based) units. Nother brands might not be possible depending on the original manufacturers programming.
If other users with your unit, maybe they have experience. Generally only working on the joying with Xposed properly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I see. I read a post where 'Aluver' says he got usb output working on app media and usb fobs but not on BT/radio/DAB (which went throught the MCU instead of DAC?) so assumed it was doable with a few changes to audio policy. Thinking about it not sure if the thread was referring to my HW/SW. Ill read the thread again but got lost in the jargen which I half understand.
So it looks like I'm just gonna have to wait till someone works out a fix.
So PX5 is the hardware and Oreo the software. Whats FYT based? Can this unit be rooted easily yet?
Thanks
mamba76 said:
I see. I read a post where 'Aluver' says he got usb output working on app media and usb fobs but not on BT/radio/DAB (which went throught the MCU instead of DAC?) so assumed it was doable with a few changes to audio policy. Thinking about it not sure if the thread was referring to my HW/SW. Ill read the thread again but got lost in the jargen which I half understand.
So it looks like I'm just gonna have to wait till someone works out a fix.
So PX5 is the hardware and Oreo the software. Whats FYT based? Can this unit be rooted easily yet?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are there any car android devices out there, chinese or otherwise, that allow for routing ALL audio digitally?
Any HW/SW setups know to work?
What about the latest 'NewsMy NR3001'?
mamba76 said:
I see. I read a post where 'Aluver' says he got usb output working on app media and usb fobs but not on BT/radio/DAB (which went throught the MCU instead of DAC?) so assumed it was doable with a few changes to audio policy. Thinking about it not sure if the thread was referring to my HW/SW. Ill read the thread again but got lost in the jargen which I half understand.
So it looks like I'm just gonna have to wait till someone works out a fix.
So PX5 is the hardware and Oreo the software. Whats FYT based? Can this unit be rooted easily yet?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
FYT is the OEM manufacturer for the system on module (SoM) that powers certain head units (that contains the CPU and memory etc)
Px5 is the CPU made by rockchips.
gtxaspec said:
FYT is the OEM manufacturer for the system on module (SoM) that powers certain head units (that contains the CPU and memory etc)
Px5 is the CPU made by rockchips.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Whats the model of Joying intel you have working? I assume there is still the problem of bluetooth / voice & radio still not being routed through USB on this as well?
I connected my XP laptop to the ministreamer then to DSP (with vanne dam spdif coax) and played some flac files and it sounds great, noise floor is zero! Shame I cant find a device other than my phone to output a dam digital signal for everything!:crying:!
PS: Android 8 Oreo + all extras for sale... £200 anyone?? (comes with dabonwheels DAB external whip aerial, original in dustbin) Will drop in a B6 / B7 Audi A4 like factory does.
mamba76 said:
Whats the model of Joying intel you have working? I assume there is still the problem of bluetooth / voice & radio still not being routed through USB on this as well?
I connected my XP laptop to the ministreamer then to DSP (with vanne dam spdif coax) and played some flac files and it sounds great, noise floor is zero! Shame I cant find a device other than my phone to output a dam digital signal for everything!:crying:!
PS: Android 8 Oreo + all extras for sale... £200 anyone?? (comes with dabonwheels DAB external whip aerial, original in dustbin) Will drop in a B6 / B7 Audi A4 like factory does.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the joying Intel that fits into the b7 a4 as well. On their site, and yeah no radio or Bluetooth yet via dsp.
mamba76 said:
Whats the model of Joying intel you have working? I assume there is still the problem of bluetooth / voice & radio still not being routed through USB on this as well?
I connected my XP laptop to the ministreamer then to DSP (with vanne dam spdif coax) and played some flac files and it sounds great, noise floor is zero! Shame I cant find a device other than my phone to output a dam digital signal for everything!:crying:!
PS: Android 8 Oreo + all extras for sale... £200 anyone?? (comes with dabonwheels DAB external whip aerial, original in dustbin) Will drop in a B6 / B7 Audi A4 like factory does.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh too bad you can't even get the spotify output on the dac? Did you try another dac like hifimediy using optical cable?
gtxaspec said:
I have the joying Intel that fits into the b7 a4 as well. On their site, and yeah no radio or Bluetooth yet via dsp.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the info gtx.. You know a hell of a lot more than me on these things. If you could suggest a head unit thats a safe bet for what Im trying to do Id appreciate any links / model numbers. I bet there's more than one joying intel out there and dont want to make the same mistake twice
Hypnox99 said:
Oh too bad you can't even get the spotify output on the dac? Did you try another dac like hifimediy using optical cable?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi. its not the dac thats the problem its that no one can get the output through the usb cable to start with. At least not yet but sure some very clever ppl on here will figure it out:fingers-crossed:
Just got one of the Binize 7" 2x32 android 9 head units. Not really impressed with it so far.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VHD4B23/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I also have one of the Podofo 7" 1x16 android 10 2020 versions. Screen looks the same but there are more connectors on the rear. It is much faster. Noticably to the touch. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08GKBQ1X5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Are there some better units out there right now I should be looking at?
Really want a DUAL din and able to load offline maps to if for BackCountry Navigator, Google Maps, and a couple others. Maybe use one of my external USB Drives for music videos, music, and other movies.
I just modified the dash of a Discovery 1 to fit a dual din. Now I want a large screen to fit in there to utilize the space I made.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
View attachment 5126247
They are all botched/buggy in someway, but it's not easy to know who makes these units and what they are just from the reseller verbiage.
Like the previous poster says. Pretty much every android head unit has issues. Each one is a different set of issues. Nobody out there seems to be doing proper reviews on these that focus on what does and doesn't work.
I've been through four so far. Every one has issues.
So I tried to switch to a Pioneer and guess what, it has issues too. I'm disgusted with the whole car audio industry. All I want is what's on my phone to be on my dash, without having to whip my phone out of my pocket and wire it up every time I go for a drive.
Apparently that's asking too much of the industry.
Fwiw the features I need/want are:
1. Supports modern digital steering wheel controls (they all seem to only support analog SWC which nobody has)
2. Either have a proper bluetooth phone feature with voice commands and quality audio OR trigger when it detects incoming audio on the aux in from my cars built in bluetooth (currently the best option I've found is I have to tap aux in every time I receive a call)
3. Pair and STAY paired with bluetooth OBD dongle for dashboard data logging. So far not a single one has been able to do this reliably, they tend to disconnect randomly and require constant re-pairing. Best if it supports newer profiles of dongles like the OBDLink which has a faster refresh rate, but so far only one of the four I've tried does that, and it requires repairing every bootup.
4. Have a screen DPI thay doesn't freak out common apps. Some of my apps don't work because of screen DPI issues on some devices.
5. Don't randomly reboot, 2 of the 4 devices I've used have this issue.
6. "Dancing" Gps or GPS that can't get a lock. One device I used the GPS jumps around randomly, the other can't even get a signal half the time.
7. Static/noise/audio problems. One has a hiss, one had loud static when no audio was playing, and another the audio would randomly cut out.
Dunno what I'm gonna do next.
skygear said:
Just got one of the Binize 7" 2x32 android 9 head units. Not really impressed with it so far.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll tell ya.... I'm on my third android head unit (all Dasaita's) and I have not had one yet which produces good clean sound without a low grade white noise (the noise which you are describing). The Dasaita I have now in fact is top of the line... cost $700US and it has the same low grade white noise the rest of them do.
I love these android head units for what you describe.... large screen, good off line maps display, engine data display... yadda yadda. They make really great overall information centers, but they ALL seem to just suck for good clean sound.
At this point I'm really considering running two head units, a double din dasaita with a 10" screen for my information center, tv, videos... etc, and a smaller single din Pioneer or Kenwood for all the audio, and the bluetooth phone connection. This is the only answer that I can see if you want to run an android head unit.... and have clean sound at the same time.
I'd also Like a to have an actual readout of what ALL the connectors are for on the back. If I plug in ALL the connectors they sent. I still have 2 ports which are empty. I can imagine maybe one is for a Wired OBD2 port cable and maybe the others for Environmental controls or steering wheel interface? Wherever these are originating from, they are not including all the features with them. Might put an amplifier on these and see how they perform. The audio isn't the best..
Main issue I had was the Binize keyboard wouldn't show up. I had to factory reset the device to enable it. I am beta testing Android 11 on my Note 20 Ultra 5g. Had NO issues with it until I paired it with this radio. No keyboard would show on my phone either. then the screen froze on my phone. Next, my storage corrupted/ disappeared, then reappeared and the phone reindexed everything so all my media (photos, video, etc. ) is all out of order now since it re scanned.
I'm thinking a USB drive with all the content might be the way to go. But are these really limited to just 32gb external storage? Shouldn't these be able to read ANY external storage formatted properly?
skygear said:
I'd also Like a to have an actual readout of what ALL the connectors are for on the back. If I plug in ALL the connectors they sent. I still have 2 ports which are empty. I can imagine maybe one is for a Wired OBD2 port cable and maybe the others for
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The extra ports are a little different from machine to machine but Dasaita puts in extra ports for TV, TPMS, DAB, Dashcam, and auxiliary a/v input. You can take a wild guess at the what the inputs are judging by the software which comes on your machine. The dasaita line for example comes with a TV app, TPMS app, DAB apps, A/V in app, and a DashCam app.
Wired obd2 works through usb and will only work with apps (like torque pro) which support usb connections
For what it's worth... I already have (3) external amps connected. 850 watts to the front, 1000 watts to the rear, and 2250 watts to the subs. Still get that low grade white noise.
Bob_Sanders said:
The extra ports are a little different from machine to machine but Dasaita puts in extra ports for TV, TPMS, DAB, Dashcam, and auxiliary a/v input. You can take a wild guess at the what the inputs are judging by the software which comes on your machine. The dasaita line for example comes with a TV app, TPMS app, DAB apps, A/V in app, and a DashCam app.
Wired obd2 works through usb and will only work with apps (like torque pro) which support usb connections
For what it's worth... I already have (3) external amps connected. 850 watts to the front, 1000 watts to the rear, and 2250 watts to the subs. Still get that low grade white noise.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you tried putting ground isolators on everything?
Sent from my SM-N986U1 using Tapatalk
skygear said:
Have you tried putting ground isolators on everything?
Sent from my SM-N986U1 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's not ground loop noise so ground isolators wouldn't do much. This is a low grade white noise like what you would hear from an FM radio when not on a station. Both my PX5 and PX6 have it. It's not very loud... but it's there.
Hello to all you wonderful people
Firstly thank you for taking the time to read and potentially help me resolve this issues. Here are the issues I am experiencing.
Vehicle 2006 X5 BMW 4.4i E53 (No hating on please I already know)
Unit 9"inch Chinese made Android 9.1 firmware. Not connected to aftermarket amplifier and no RCA Audio connect)
Android YT9213A_00009_V001_20200312
Android os 9.1 XY Auto:3.2 (8227L)
Can Pro 3.0 (8227L)
Cpu A7 1.3Hz x 4
MCU 3.1 (8227L)
1. Unit only produces sound when using the Radio (Front speakers only and No fade ability, left right or EQ)
2. I have set the Canbus to BMW but Steering Wheel Button Mapping is non functioning or recognising.
3. Updated software via units button and Wi-fi and still no change
4. Vehicle has a DSP amplifier aka Splits 2 channel signal into 6 channels
5. Has Bluetooth connectivity but does not pick up sound when on a call from within the car nor produces any sound when playing music tracks or video.
6. Struggles to play movie files (Wondering if it is just a file type issue - I use "mkv" file types normally "VLC player" )
7. Google maps produces no street name data and only shows directional lines and no turn information vocally.
Please note that the company I bought this off no longer replies to emails and wont engage in any form of help..
I am hoping that a raw firmware update to Android 10 or similar will fix most /all of these issues...if so I would need a link to the firmware file please - Plus if advised that RCA connects are the answer to the Sound issues maybe the answer.
If anyone has any advice I would be greatly appreciated
Head unit pic..
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Meatcleaver_101 said:
Hello to all you wonderful people
Firstly thank you for taking the time to read and potentially help me resolve this issues. Here are the issues I am experiencing.
Vehicle 2006 X5 BMW 4.4i E53 (No hating on please I already know)
Unit 9"inch Chinese made Android 9.1 firmware. Not connected to aftermarket amplifier and no RCA Audio connect)
Android YT9213A_00009_V001_20200312
Android os 9.1 XY Auto:3.2 (8227L)
Can Pro 3.0 (8227L)
Cpu A7 1.3Hz x 4
MCU 3.1 (8227L)
1. Unit only produces sound when using the Radio (Front speakers only and No fade ability, left right or EQ)
2. I have set the Canbus to BMW but Steering Wheel Button Mapping is non functioning or recognising.
3. Updated software via units button and Wi-fi and still no change
4. Vehicle has a DSP amplifier aka Splits 2 channel signal into 6 channels
5. Has Bluetooth connectivity but does not pick up sound when on a call from within the car nor produces any sound when playing music tracks or video.
6. Struggles to play movie files (Wondering if it is just a file type issue - I use "mkv" file types normally "VLC player" )
7. Google maps produces no street name data and only shows directional lines and no turn information vocally.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If your BMW is anything like my jeep then number 4 is your problem. You have the factory premium sound (factory dsp amp)
Your factory amp only uses 2 channels from your android unit. You can not control fade because your android unit can not control the Can Bus fade system in your factory amp. You can't hear Bluetooth, or navigation info because the 2 channels from the android unit which are connected to the factory dsp are the REAR channels and meanwhile all bluetooth and nav information is fed through the FRONT channels on the android unit. You can correct this by switching the front channels with the rear channels on the android unit.
You will still not be able to correct fade though. What you can TRY though is going into the FACTORY SETTINGS on the android and make sure you have AMPLIFIER turned on. If your android machine is 'smart enough' then it will understand that your dsp fade needs to be controlled through CAN Bus.
If you ordered the factory specific android unit for your bmw, your steering wheel buttons SHOULD work, but you will not be able to remap them.
The cpu that you have in that machine is not really strong enough to handle mkv files. You should convert to a simpler format if you want to play video on that machine.
Meatcleaver_101
1
said:
Hello to all you wonderful people
YT9213A_00009_V001_20200312
Android os 9.1 XY Auto:3.2 (8227L)
Can Pro 3.0 (8227L)
Cpu A7 1.3Hz x 4
MCU 3.1 (8227L)
.
If anyone has any advice I would be greatly appreciated
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi new member. Welcome, suggest taking the time to learn the basics of Chinese Android head units, there are alot of informative posts and a wiki for MTCx units.
As your unit is not an MTCD, I have requested a mod moves it to the appropriate Android head units forum.
Try searching for 8227L
Meatcleaver_101 said:
Hello to all you wonderful people
Firstly thank you for taking the time to read and potentially help me resolve this issues. Here are the issues I am experiencing.
Vehicle 2006 X5 BMW 4.4i E53 (No hating on please I already know)
Unit 9"inch Chinese made Android 9.1 firmware. Not connected to aftermarket amplifier and no RCA Audio connect)
Android YT9213A_00009_V001_20200312
Android os 9.1 XY Auto:3.2 (8227L)
Can Pro 3.0 (8227L)
Cpu A7 1.3Hz x 4
MCU 3.1 (8227L)
1. Unit only produces sound when using the Radio (Front speakers only and No fade ability, left right or EQ)
2. I have set the Canbus to BMW but Steering Wheel Button Mapping is non functioning or recognising.
3. Updated software via units button and Wi-fi and still no change
4. Vehicle has a DSP amplifier aka Splits 2 channel signal into 6 channels
5. Has Bluetooth connectivity but does not pick up sound when on a call from within the car nor produces any sound when playing music tracks or video.
6. Struggles to play movie files (Wondering if it is just a file type issue - I use "mkv" file types normally "VLC player" )
7. Google maps produces no street name data and only shows directional lines and no turn information vocally.
Please note that the company I bought this off no longer replies to emails and wont engage in any form of help..
I am hoping that a raw firmware update to Android 10 or similar will fix most /all of these issues...if so I would need a link to the firmware file please - Plus if advised that RCA connects are the answer to the Sound issues maybe the answer.
If anyone has any advice I would be greatly appreciated
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey
I also have X5, but lucky for me - w/o DSP and NAVI. So every generic head unit works for me fine
But according to your problem.. unfortunately what Bob_sanders says is true and problem is DSP.
To allow your head unit handle DPS you need to buy additional I-BUS interface (which you connect using USB and soldering few wires) and download application.
You can read more in this thread https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/discussion-unofficial-bmw-i-bus-app.4077697/
Not sure if buying license is necessary to enable DSP, so you may check it before you buy.
But for sure updating Android version won't help - you have to use this I-bus thingy.
edit. same thing applies to steering wheel control - command are sent using I-bus (instead of CAN) and i-bus interface is needed to handle them.
But AFAIK you won't be able to do a custom mapping. They will work only like BMW designed it.
Custom mapping is only available to resistive-based SWC controls, which are connected to KEY 1 & 2 wires in head unit harness.
wotii098 said:
Hey
I also have X5, but lucky for me - w/o DSP and NAVI. So every generic head unit works for me fine
But according to your problem.. unfortunately what Bob_sanders says is true and problem is DSP.
To allow your head unit handle DPS you need to buy additional I-BUS interface (which you connect using USB and soldering few wires) and download application.
You can read more in this thread https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/discussion-unofficial-bmw-i-bus-app.4077697/
Not sure if buying license is necessary to enable DSP, so you may check it before you buy.
But for sure updating Android version won't help - you have to use this I-bus thingy.
edit. same thing applies to steering wheel control - command are sent using I-bus (instead of CAN) and i-bus interface is needed to handle them.
But AFAIK you won't be able to do a custom mapping. They will work only like BMW designed it.
Custom mapping is only available to resistive-based SWC controls, which are connected to KEY 1 & 2 wires in head unit harness.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Wotii098
I have found an answer to the problem and it is a super simple one...
So apparently the power antenna wire is the answer... So the issue goes without the activation of that wire the unit thinks there is no antenna and will not go any further with sound and will only produce basic Radio audio... So what you need to do is attach the "BLUE" Ant wire (Pin No.12) to the Yellow power wire and this will instantly fix the issue.. Spread the word my brethren and thank you for your response.
marchnz said:
Hi new member. Welcome, suggest taking the time to learn the basics of Chinese Android head units, there are alot of informative posts and a wiki for MTCx units.
As your unit is not an MTCD, I have requested a mod moves it to the appropriate Android head units forum.
Try searching for 8227L
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you .. I appreciate the advice and the welcome to be honest.. I will have a read on the other posts related to this post .. cheers
Meatcleaver_101 said:
Hi Wotii098
I have found an answer to the problem and it is a super simple one...
So apparently the power antenna wire is the answer... So the issue goes without the activation of that wire the unit thinks there is no antenna and will not go any further with sound and will only produce basic Radio audio... So what you need to do is attach the "BLUE" Ant wire (Pin No.12) to the Yellow power wire and this will instantly fix the issue.. Spread the word my brethren and thank you for your response.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
HUH?
Sorry... I'm not sure what you did or the problem you were having but the blue antenna wire is just an antenna trigger wire which OUTPUTS a voltage. There is no "activation" of that wire and nothing on that wire to sense any connection. It simply outputs a voltage to trigger a power antenna. If you do not have a power antenna then DO NOT connect it to anything.
It is NOT advised that you connect that wire to the yellow 12 volt constant voltage wire. That is NOT what it is for, and you may damage your machine in the end.
Bob_Sanders said:
HUH?
Sorry... I'm not sure what you did or the problem you were having but the blue antenna wire is just an antenna trigger wire which OUTPUTS a voltage. There is no "activation" of that wire and nothing on that wire to sense any connection. It simply outputs a voltage to trigger a power antenna. If you do not have a power antenna then DO NOT connect it to anything.
It is NOT advised that you connect that wire to the yellow 12 volt constant voltage wire. That is NOT what it is for, and you may damage your machine in the end.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Arrr But that's the thing.. it's a trigger wire that the unit uses to trigger the DSP Amp that everything is active and to open up the signal to the amp.
Well not the best and actual scientific/electrical way of putting it... but it worked and fixed most of my issues.. I've only got one issues left which is the steering wheel button mapping which doesn't work. Which could be the actual buttons/assembly as I did not test them when I bought the SUV, because the stereo's screen was dead.
Either way I hope this helps someone who is having the same issue as me for a 2005/6 model BMW X5 or any other car/suv/truck with the same issue.
Give it a try if you are having this problem Bob.. can't hurt.. Didn't hurt my unit..
Here is a Youtube link to the video I found that solved the issue:
Meatcleaver_101 said:
Arrr But that's the thing.. it's a trigger wire that the unit uses to trigger the DSP Amp that everything is active and to open up the signal to the amp.
Well not the best and actual scientific/electrical way of putting it... but it worked and fixed most of my issues.. I've only got one issues left which is the steering wheel button mapping which doesn't work. Which could be the actual buttons/assembly as I did not test them when I bought the SUV, because the stereo's screen was dead.
Either way I hope this helps someone who is having the same issue as me for a 2005/6 model BMW X5 or any other car/suv/truck with the same issue.
Give it a try if you are having this problem Bob.. can't hurt.. Didn't hurt my unit..
Here is a Youtube link to the video I found that solved the issue:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No. It is a trigger wire for your Antenna. That's precisely why it shuts down when you turn the radio off. Your power antenna is no longer needed because you are not listening to the radio anymore, so it retracts back down into the vehicle.
What you are doing when you connect to the yellow is feeding a REVERSE voltage through a circuit which was designed to PRODUCE a voltage, not receive one. You risk damage to your machine by doing so.
If you are having problems keeping your dsp alive then you have wired something wrong. I don't know what head unit you have but all the ones I know of have a separate "AMP" wire which is used to trigger the amp/dsp. It stays on at any time the head unit is on.