It seems my power cord is not charging the unit or there is something wrong with the battery, this happens after I upgraded to 3.1, any help would be much appreciated.
By any chance, did you use an extension USB3 cable on the charger at some point? I tried one last week, and immediately had the charger completely fail.
I finally concluded that the card may have caused one or more of the 5 pins on the charger base to deform.
I was able to restore it by carefully reforming the pins, very slightly upward, using a very sharp needle and a jewelers loupe. Knock on wood, it's been working fine since then.
Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
No, did not use any other USB cord, the package only comes with one USB cable.
Asus support will send a RMA to me, hope BestBuy carry the transformer so that I can try their cord.
take the country adapter off the charger and reinstall it. Sometimes the small pins get bent and do not make contact.
I see more people having the same issue - the charger does not charge, I got the RMA from Asus, but really want them to send me a new charger.
How long hasn't it charged? Sometimes the charger will just stop charging out of the blue, then work a few hours later.
Hello everyone, I happen to notice that my stock N4 USB cable has a possible missing contact pin (not sure what to call it). The only other USB cables I have to compare it to are Samsung cables and all the pins are there. I'm curious if that pin is left out by design or it is a defect. Without knowing if it's left out for a reason. I have been reluctant to use my other cables because they do have that extra pin. I'm thinking maybe more pins could be bad if the N4 wasn't designed for it? So my question is, do you folks have all the pins on your stock N4 USB cables. Thanks in advance, Peace.
PS I have had two charging discrepancies since I've owed the phone. Twice when I plugged in (wall socket) my phone shot up to 100% instantly. I had to unplug, power down, plug back in, and power back on to get the proper battery reading again.
Mine appears to be missing too. Maybe it is built that way. I didn't notice until I just checked. I haven't had any problems with file transfers using the cable with my computer or with charging.
Edit: Found this thread on another forum that explains 2 other users having the same issue with their nexus 4s. It appears to be normal. http://forums.androidcentral.com/google-nexus-4/246222-nexus-4-oem-usb-cable.html
Check out the other end. You should only have 4 contacts there too.
They build it like that to save money (less metal). You only need 4 contacts for a USB cable. (The phone side will have all 5 for use in slim port, OTG, etc.)
From left to right in your picture you have:
Ground
Data-
Data+
Voltage
And that's all ya need.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
Can someone verify that the Nexus 7 can operates perfectly fine with the battery removed and only powered by the USB cable? I've read some threads eluding to this, but no one has confirmed. Mine is in the dash of my car so i cant verify this myself. If someone can. that would be amazing! Thank you.
look at the thread right below yours.
Old Guy said:
look at the thread right below yours.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I saw that thread, i was still a bit confused as they were talking about USB DAC and other devices hooked up to me.
I want to make sure data can still be transferred from the same USB cable and such.
Yes, it's possible, but has some side-effects
Yes, it's possible to power the Nexus 7 without battery from a USB-cable, but it involves sending power directly to the battery connection inside the Nexus 7, and it seems to have some side-effects.
The battery is a one-cell lithium polymer, which has a max charge of 4.23 V. I hoped the Nexus wouldn't fry when connecting 5 V, and it has worked fine the few minutes I've tested it. No smell of burnt electronics
Here is what I did:
Tear off the tape around the battery cable. You'll see it's soldered to a pcb-board, and the two black and two red wires are soldered together. The two wires in the middle is probably some kind of data-connection to the battery. Will investigate this further later.
Then I soldered loose the cables, so I could use the battery-connector, and soldered both red and black wires to red and black wires in a USB-cable. Drilled a hole in the back-cover right below the NFC-antenna. The back-cover is filled with all sorts of antennas, so scratch carefully with a knife before drilling. Attached some pictures of the process.
Side-effects I've noticed so far:
- It thinks the battery is at 0% and not charging.
- The clock is reset when you turn off the power. But if you have internet it will update from NTP within a minute or so.
- My computer (OS X) can't detect it anymore. So I suspect it doesn't work in USB device-mode anymore, but I'm able to connect a USB-keyboard with an OTG-cable, so it seems to work in host-mode.
Does anyone else have any experience with this, or any ideas why it doesn't work in device-mode? I'm considering adding a small connector so I can use the two extra wires from the battery to the data-wires of the USB-cable (and disconnect when not in use), and then solder a USB female cable to the original battery. That way I can (hopefully) connect the Nexus 7 to my computer when needed, and possibly analyze what the two extra wires is actually used for.
I have CM for Android 4.2, and Timur's USB-rom, but it's probably not needed for this hack, and I will probably install a stock rom if I get this working properly.
Be careful, and don't blame me if you fry your Nexus (or anything else). Be sure to turn off any fast-charge hacks when the battery is disconnected.
Old Guy - look at the thread right below yours
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Threads are sorted by last post in each thread, so it's impossible to find which one you are referring to. Do you have an url?
Theory worked
I managed to connect the Nexus 7 to my computer again
I'm considering adding a small connector so I can use the two extra wires from the battery to the data-wires of the USB-cable (and disconnect when not in use), and then solder a USB female cable to the original battery. That way I can (hopefully) connect the Nexus 7 to my computer when needed, and possibly analyze what the two extra wires is actually used for.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can confirm that this works. I didn't have any small connectors, so I hot-glued one header-pin and a female connector for a header pin on the data-wires in the USB-cable. Doesn't look good, but it works
When I have it in the car, I disconnect the header-pins on the USB-cable, and connect it to an USB power-source. When I need to connect it to the computer, I connect the header-pins and connect the battery (with the female USB-cable), and a regular USB-cable to the computer.
Sorry to bring up an older thread, but it sounds like the White and Yellow wires of the battery are for data?
if so, if I applied 3.7-4.2 volts on the battery connection and then still had a 5v connection on the USB would this work?
I would like to use Timur's ROM, and have power applied when my car is off (fixed install) for deep sleep and then apply the 5v when the car is on to bring it from the deep sleep. the issues would be faking it to not charge which I am guessing would mean to set the battery input to 4.23 volts to show as being fully charged. then when key on, the 5v would take over and you would still have the 4.23 applied at the battery connection ( probably have a diode on the + side to keep from injecting voltage to that supply
Has any one completed something like this?
The problematic usb port finally gave up on my Nexus 7 (2012). I've opened up it up, connected the black and red wires from a cut usb cable to the 1st and 4th pogo pins without removing the battery. Now charging's fast and stable..
Added: Tried 5v2a charging, it doesn't melt anything.. Fully charged in just slightly over1 hour.
This thread has been great help and a motivator for wiring my Nexus 7 to do a (permanent) dash install.
I've just removed the battery and wired it to a Pico-Box X5-ATX-180 carputer PSU with an adjustable voltage converter in-between to get around 3.9 volts to the tablet. Works great, but I found another drawback.
Like mentioned in a post before me, the battery status will show 0% which I thought wouldn't be too big of a problem. However, at the moment there is an Android update (4.4.3) available and when I try to update it first tells that the battery is too low and that I should connect a charger. So I did, but then it tells me too "wait for the battery to charge sufficiently".
So for anyone reading this wanting to do the same, know that you won't be able to update Android without a battery connected.
I have attached a photo of the tablet running without a battery for those interested.
Rutjes said:
This thread has been great help and a motivator for wiring my Nexus 7 to do a (permanent) dash install.
I've just removed the battery and wired it to a Pico-Box X5-ATX-180 carputer PSU with an adjustable voltage converter in-between to get around 3.9 volts to the tablet. Works great, but I found another drawback.
Like mentioned in a post before me, the battery status will show 0% which I thought wouldn't be too big of a problem. However, at the moment there is an Android update (4.4.3) available and when I try to update it first tells that the battery is too low and that I should connect a charger. So I did, but then it tells me too "wait for the battery to charge sufficiently".
So for anyone reading this wanting to do the same, know that you won't be able to update Android without a battery connected.
I have attached a photo of the tablet running without a battery for those interested.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could use the factory image to update your nexus 7. It's just a bit more work.
Rutjes said:
This thread has been great help and a motivator for wiring my Nexus 7 to do a (permanent) dash install.
I've just removed the battery and wired it to a Pico-Box X5-ATX-180 carputer PSU with an adjustable voltage converter in-between to get around 3.9 volts to the tablet. Works great, but I found another drawback.
Like mentioned in a post before me, the battery status will show 0% which I thought wouldn't be too big of a problem. However, at the moment there is an Android update (4.4.3) available and when I try to update it first tells that the battery is too low and that I should connect a charger. So I did, but then it tells me too "wait for the battery to charge sufficiently".
So for anyone reading this wanting to do the same, know that you won't be able to update Android without a battery connected.
I have attached a photo of the tablet running without a battery for those interested.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What did you use to get the voltage down to 3.9 volts?
the exact thread I've been searching for.
Just completed by initial installation and now troubleshooting various problems.
The biggest being this battery scenario. So from what I've read in this thread is to use a DC-DC power switcher PICO for carputers and run that to the battery leads. How is the boot time though?
I've read that with a low battery, the kernal during bootup takes longer for checks to occur?
I have an idea.....:
If we can switch 12VDC to 5VDC during switched (Key On Accesory) with a regulator.....
we should be able to do the same with a sepearate regulator to switch 12VDC to5VDC during constant (Key off) when the switch voltage is lost.
This would retain the time you mentioned gets lost. Also, how much mAh (current) do you get out of that PICO regulator to the battery leads? The TIMUR kernal for FI-mode wants 1800mAh at least. Currently I'm using a cigarette lighter DC-DC adapter that has 2 ports. (2.1A, and 1A). The Nexus 7 is currently connected to the 2.1A and my HUB is connected to the 1A.
any advice?
Thanks
rezmax said:
Just completed by initial installation and now troubleshooting various problems.
The biggest being this battery scenario. So from what I've read in this thread is to use a DC-DC power switcher PICO for carputers and run that to the battery leads. How is the boot time though?
I've read that with a low battery, the kernal during bootup takes longer for checks to occur?
I have an idea.....:
If we can switch 12VDC to 5VDC during switched (Key On Accesory) with a regulator.....
we should be able to do the same with a sepearate regulator to switch 12VDC to5VDC during constant (Key off) when the switch voltage is lost.
This would retain the time you mentioned gets lost. Also, how much mAh (current) do you get out of that PICO regulator to the battery leads? The TIMUR kernal for FI-mode wants 1800mAh at least. Currently I'm using a cigarette lighter DC-DC adapter that has 2 ports. (2.1A, and 1A). The Nexus 7 is currently connected to the 2.1A and my HUB is connected to the 1A.
any advice?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why go through all the trouble? Just snip off any USB cable and connect to the pogo pins.. This way, you can charge at pogo's speed with any wall charger and still bring your tablet anywhere.
Hi guys just wanted to report i used your trick on my nexus 7 and it worked perfectly!
I used this method to check if the problem was the battery or if the screen was dead and it turned out to be the battery!
Now i have another battery on the way from Ebay.
Thanks again good job!
Hi guys me again,
I want to update the software but it wont let me because battery is on 1% for ever.
BUT i was wondering, what would happend if i simultaneously plug in the mini usb to another usb charger?
would that create some sort of an insane weird circut and burn my tablet?
any thoughts?
thanks!
Im thinking to use the Nexus 7 in car without the original battery. Constant 4.2V from car battery via converter to nexus battery pins and using the usb with ignition to switch the tablet between sleep and normal state. One thing i would want to reuse is the temperature sensor in the Li-ion pack. Has anyone some idea if the two extra wires are directly connected to temp sensor or there is a circuit for it on the battery controller? If so how it could be reproduced so i could use this to monitor the temp in car for example or if anyone knows any usb dongles that i could use for monitoring external temp with android.
So now i hav tryed the nexus without the battery aswell. At first i applyed 5v directly to the little black battery connector. tablet worked but showed 0%. Then tryed desoldering the batteryback from the little circuit and applyed 5v to the actual battery connectors on the circuit. It shows 100% battery and works and also the temperature sensor is working. One issue is that i need to plug in the charger before connecting the circuit to the motherboard, maybe the charger im using is just too weak that cant get the voltage up or something. And another thing is that i left it plugged in for the night and now the percentage goes down slowly as it would be discharging. havent figured out why that is. Maybe someone has tackled this before also?
freakadell said:
So now i hav tryed the nexus without the battery aswell. At first i applyed 5v directly to the little black battery connector. tablet worked but showed 0%. Then tryed desoldering the batteryback from the little circuit and applyed 5v to the actual battery connectors on the circuit. It shows 100% battery and works and also the temperature sensor is working. One issue is that i need to plug in the charger before connecting the circuit to the motherboard, maybe the charger im using is just too weak that cant get the voltage up or something. And another thing is that i left it plugged in for the night and now the percentage goes down slowly as it would be discharging. havent figured out why that is. Maybe someone has tackled this before also?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You supplied power to the protection circuit? I'm surprised that worked.
The battery is probably going down because the protection circuit is designed to prevent over and under voltage. Since you're feeding it 5V and a lithium battery is supposed to max out at about 4.2V it must be trying to lower the voltage somehow. The percentage going down is probably nothing to worry about, but I'd strongly recommend connecting to the battery connector instead, and only connecting it like this when you need to have a certain percentage to do a system update etc. Also be careful with the bare battery, if the two pins short it could catch fire.
Hi i tried that works ,however it doesn't boot when powered i have to turn it on pressing power button,any idea why?
As a car dash its pretty useless now
Just a quick message that I have managed to power my nexus 7 2012 from a USB cable connected to the circuit board that was attached to my dead battery. Battery level indicator is permanently at 100%.
Sort of like the above it involves using the battery circuit board but it is disconnected from the battery.
Step 1: Strip back battery wrapping revealing the board attached to the connector cables (that connects to Nexus 7)
Step 2: Cut the metal strips going from the circuit board to the actual battery part
Step 3: Solder USB cable Positive wire to board pad labelled VP and Negative to pad VG(? not 100% on last one, but it's the other pad)
Step 4: Solder short wire from VP pad to other side of the board onto the ++ pad (that goes to the red wires then connector)
Step 5: Wrap board up with elec/other tape to avoid shorts
Step 6: Connect up and power on
Not sure why the last wire is needed but it didn't work for me without it.
Next step for me is to wire it to the onboard micro-usb
Where is the ++ pad ??
dribbleboy said:
Step 4: Solder short wire from VP pad to other side of the board onto the ++ pad (that goes to the red wires then connector)
Not sure why the last wire is needed but it didn't work for me without it.
Next step for me is to wire it to the onboard micro-usb
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where is the ++ pad mentioned in step 4 ? Can you post some pictures ?
I recently purchased an n9005 (note 3) second hand. Everything was fine except it looked like the charging module was on the way out. It wasn't inclined to charge at all with the usb3.0 connector and I had to wedge the usb2.0 connector at an angle. ordered up a replacement charging module - and swapped it out.
All good ...or so I thought!
A few weeks later and the phone shows as 'charging' but it may or may not be charging in reality! I always leave it charging overnight - but now I simply don't know whether I'll wake up to it being completely flat or charged.
I'm not at all sure whats at play here - but it's definitely not the same problem as I had with the charging module. There's no necessity to have the cable inserted at an angle or anything like that.
other than confirming that, I'm at a loss as to what's at play. Could it be some sort of android issue...or....could the battery itself be on the way out?
Any troubleshooting steps or suggestions would be very welcome.
I was away over Christmas/New Year - in Spain. During that time, I recharged using the old micro usb cable - via the mains - and also via a power bank. With both, there was no charging issue whatsoever.
When I came back home, I tried to charge via the mains (with the micro usb cable and the usb 3.0 cable) - but same issue.
Is it possible that the charging module that I bought online and installed - is geared towards continental power supply only - and not the irish power system?
In the meantime, I've simply been charging the power bank up - and in turn, charging the phone via the power bank.
borderfox said:
I recently purchased an n9005 (note 3) second hand. Everything was fine except it looked like the charging module was on the way out. It wasn't inclined to charge at all with the usb3.0 connector and I had to wedge the usb2.0 connector at an angle. ordered up a replacement charging module - and swapped it out.
All good ...or so I thought!
A few weeks later and the phone shows as 'charging' but it may or may not be charging in reality! I always leave it charging overnight - but now I simply don't know whether I'll wake up to it being completely flat or charged.
I'm not at all sure whats at play here - but it's definitely not the same problem as I had with the charging module. There's no necessity to have the cable inserted at an angle or anything like that.
other than confirming that, I'm at a loss as to what's at play. Could it be some sort of android issue...or....could the battery itself be on the way out?
Any troubleshooting steps or suggestions would be very welcome.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello all,
First thread here and hoping you guys and girls with more experience can help.
Basically I am fitting my nexus 7 2012 in my car but its got the common charging problem where my battery drains faster than I can charge it.
I have ordered a new USB port strip as I've read that can fix it and fingers crossed with that.
My problem/requirement:
1. I want to charge the tablet via the usb port using a hardwired 5V 2A device this will be plugged into a otg y splitter which is then plugged into the tablet.
2. The USB A side of the splitter I want to connect to my cars ECU (it has a USB port) so I can read the data on that (basically a very expensive memory stick)
I wanted to confirm that this would work and id be able to read data at the same time as charging it.
I also wanted to double check I'm not somehow going to send my 5v 2a power down into my ECU and set it on fire
On a side note, if my new USB port replacement doesn't solve the issue of charging the tablet i will have to remove the battery and hardwire it in, will i still be ok with using the USB port for the ecu while charging hardwired with no battery?
Kind Regards
Tim
Getting any USB 2.0 device to take current while hosting is tricky.
Usually it involves talking directly to the PMIC (power management IC).
If it's a fixed installation, why not remove the battery?
It will avoid the grief of the battery swelling up, which is not too unusual for things plugged in all the time.
I've been using a Nexus 7 (2013) for a few years, but just charging on USB.
It started falling out of its nice holder.
That's when I realized that the battery was all puffed up making the back convex.
I cut off the battery cell itself on the metal tabs and soldered in wires to a 4 V 2 A supply.
I found out that the BMS is a bit balky, it refused to turn on.
So I connected it to USB to "charge" it for about 10 seconds.
Then I could turn it on (without the USB).
Ok, I could have bypassed the BMS entirely but that can be a whole 'nother can of worms too.