Database Users

NST Broken Screen, advice sought

I've got a simple touch that got stepped on, now Joseph Conrad has an interesting hairdo (can see where the crack is).
I've got ADB installed and working well for my other (various) Android devices, so using that is an option if I can figure out the Nook side.
The light next to the USB port goes on when I plug the Nook in, so there's some logic working in there.
Questions:
Can someone suggest a way to test if the device is good excepting the screen?
Is it worth replacing the screen on this device and if so, where could I find one?
Assuming screen replacement isn't an option, I'm considering random fun projects for this hardware. Anyone got recommendations?
The first random fun project I'm thinking of would be a WiFi repeater, mostly because I need one in the house here. Total awesomeness would be getting DD-WRT working on it

if u expert in adb ... then u can use and install program named "screenshot" and then run it and take print screen from ur nook and pull pic from ur sd card from screenshot directory .... all that via adb
but i dont know how ... it's just a theory ..... but it will make sure that ur device working or not and is it screen Issue or not
thx

That's a good idea, speedman.
You don't actually have to install any software.
The stock "screenshot" works well enough.
Ok, the colors are all screwed up, but still.
Code:
screenshot /sdcard/snap.png
Oh, yes you can buy screens from NST's gutted for parts.
It just that they cost about as much as a used NST.
If it were mine, I'd do some hacking.
I've already got a console UART connector soldered to the board.
I'd see about expanding the key matrix and seeing if I could get some I/O pins going.
JTAG would be fun to play with.

How to : build a wire trigger/remote for the NST (and maybe glowlight?)

Hey everyone, I just made a device for my nook that allows me to "sit back and enjoy" my book with my hands free (nearly free)
This was my chance to be a little useful on this board for once, so here is the detailed article about it, I hope you enjoy it.
spoiler : if you do what I did you actually get to bypass the matrix using a phone
I hope this link pointing to my own blog is not against forum rules by the way, please tell me if it's the case and I'll fix it.
Cheers
K.

Nice work! You're even lazier than I am. :laugh:
I have a foot pedal set up like that using a scrounged keyboard.
I use the PAGE_DOWN codes (which wasn't formalized until after our Android 2.1).
I didn't bother tracing out anything, besides, I only had the tiny PCB itself.
I just ran a shorting wire over stuff until I saw the right keycode on UsbMode.
You may have noticed already, we need to do some work on getting USB host mode to use less current.
Right now, it uses a lot, between 50 mA and 150 mA.
That's a lot, considering that the idle current is less than 10 mA.

Haha thanks I knew you must have built something along those lines already!
The foot pedal was on my list too, did you build the pedal yourself or did you use something?
Yes I did notice the drain... That's really a shame, I was shocked to see my nook completely drained after one night on host mode (I forgot to set it back to peripheral)
Which takes me to a question I planned to ask you
Do you know if it's possible to charge the nook while in host mode? it would solve the drain problem for me, but that would probably be too good to be true...
EDIT : just found that :
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=32724951&postcount=8
How to
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1828032
It's pretty basic... Just connect Vcc and ground to the rest
have you tried something like that ?
cheers
K.

The foot pedal thread is here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1709914
Instead of using a Y cable I use a "back-powering" hub.
Making a back-powered hub is here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=22956658&postcount=103
@Karibou3 What is the mount on the back of your Nook?

Renate NST said:
@Karibou3 What is the mount on the back of your Nook?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh it's an ugly and hasty modification of the original one (first picture in my post) I basically cut off the hinge, put an elastic band between the two remaining parts (you may have noticed it holds and bent the end of the the pincers (if that's the adequate word)
it's ugly but it does the job for now. I'll try to make up something more elegant later (probably involving rubber and claws to make use of the indents, I tried that before to fasten my book LED to the nook and it works well)
Thanks for your advice on the back powered hub, I think I might modify one later but for now I'd like to add power to this particular build (trying to keep it simple) I tried to tap into the Vcc and GND of an USB cable connected to my computer, while it charges the nook in "peripheral mode", no luck with the host mode... So I can't use my remote and charge the nook at the same time
Am I doing something wrong? what are your settings you use with your hub (should be the same right?)

[Q] Can I use my nook without touchscreen?

Hi all,
I have the nook simple touch since 4 months, and the touchscreen is frozen, nook is unresponsive. I try all, factory reset, clean the screen, etc without any results.
I want to know if is posible to use the nook without the tocuhscreen , only using page buttons, N and power button.
I supose that if is possible I will have to install Android, this is not a problem for me, but I dont know if I will need touchscreen in this process.
Thanks :laugh:

How do you know if you just screwed up the OS or have a hardware problem or have a display specific problem?
First step is to try noogie on an SD card.
Next step is taking apart the Nook, disconnecting the battery and reconnecting.

Renate NST said:
How do you know if you just screwed up the OS or have a hardware problem or have a display specific problem?
First step is to try noogie on an SD card.
Next step is taking apart the Nook, disconnecting the battery and reconnecting.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for answer.
I try factory reset and clean the screen without result, and the only thing I do was change the region of the nook ( from USA to UK) and in the begining the screen works great, and few months, touchscreen starts to fail but still works. Now doesnt work. I dont have Android installed.For that I think that its a specific display problem.
PD. Sorry, I dont speak/write english at all. I hope you understand me.
PD2. When you say try noogie on SD, its to put noogie.img(I dont know what it is at all) and restore in case I have Android yes? or if I have nook original SO I can do it too?
Thanks.

Stylem32008 said:
Thanks for answer.
When you say try noogie on SD, its to put noogie.img(I dont know what it is at all) and restore in case I have Android yes? or if I have nook original SO I can do it too?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi!
No, you "burn" the image into the SD card using winimage ou in linux, dd and boot from it.
It mantains your nooks internal memory intact and thus, it remains as it came from factory.
I had somehow the same problem after my nook had a slight fight with the floor.
After opening it, removing the battery and checked the screen from inside (it looked fine from the out side and wasn't boken, just seemed to have dislocated somehow) and reconnecting the batery again, it started to function propperly. It is fine for about one year.

J_Palito said:
Hi!
No, you "burn" the image into the SD card using winimage ou in linux, dd and boot from it.
It mantains your nooks internal memory intact and thus, it remains as it came from factory.
I had somehow the same problem after my nook had a slight fight with the floor.
After opening it, removing the battery and checked the screen from inside (it looked fine from the out side and wasn't boken, just seemed to have dislocated somehow) and reconnecting the batery again, it started to function propperly. It is fine for about one year.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I supose that It has a tutorial of this, but I dont find , can you post me the link please?
And returning to the original question, its possible to use without touchscreen, in case that I cant solve the problem with the touchscreen (that I think that its going to be very difficult)?

Sorry, I was confused by your description of the problem.
So the display itself works fine?
It's just the touch part of it that does not work?
Does it respond to a finger at all? (Even if it senses the wrong place)
Try once again cleaning the screen.
But it's not the screen that matters.
Get a Q-tip (a cotton swap) that is just damp and clean inside the bezel carefully.

Renate NST said:
Sorry, I was confused by your description of the problem.
So the display itself works fine?
It's just the touch part of it that does not work?
Does it respond to a finger at all? (Even if it senses the wrong place)
Try once again cleaning the screen.
But it's not the screen that matters.
Get a Q-tip (a cotton swap) that is just damp and clean inside the bezel carefully.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dont worry. Yes, the display works fine, it's just the touch part. No, the touchscreen is completly unresponsive. Doesn't respond to a finger.
I just try to clean not only the screen, I clean the bezel, where the nook have the IQ sensors. When you say inside bezel, its between the bezel and the IQ sensors, or unmounting the bezel of the nook?
I read that I have only to clean the exterior of the bezel, not inside.
Thanks:fingers-crossed:

By "inside" I meant touch the Q-tip to the screen surface then move it outward until it hits the bezel.
The Nook has a separate processor which is only responsible for the touch screen sensing, a MSP430.
First: See if the processor is responding:
Code:
cd /sys/devices/platform/i2c_omap.2/i2c-adapter/i2c-2/2-0050/
cat versions
cat zfstatus
It has its own firmware which can be flashed.
There is a provision inside the stock u-boot.bin for reflashing it.
The command is "mspflash".
There is a file in the Nook 1.2.1 update zForce_Touch_Driver_Gossamer_6_Inch_latest.hex
I've not tried this. If it's not your problem this could make things worse.

Renate NST said:
By "inside" I meant touch the Q-tip to the screen surface then move it outward until it hits the bezel.
The Nook has a separate processor which is only responsible for the touch screen sensing, a MSP430.
First: See if the processor is responding:
Code:
cd /sys/devices/platform/i2c_omap.2/i2c-adapter/i2c-2/2-0050/
cat versions
cat zfstatus
It has its own firmware which can be flashed.
There is a provision inside the stock u-boot.bin for reflashing it.
The command is "mspflash".
There is a file in the Nook 1.2.1 update zForce_Touch_Driver_Gossamer_6_Inch_latest.hex
I've not tried this. If it's not your problem this could make things worse.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just plugged my nook to pc, open a cmd, put the directory, but the system cant find the directory. Maybe I need somekind of drivers?
mergen3107 said:
Apparently got to this - http://bookclubs.barnesandnoble.com...unresponsive/m-p/1350602/highlight/true#M2561
May be this could help you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for try to help me, but I clean the screen, the bezel and evertything like 100 times. The dust its not my problem (I think).:good:

Those commands were for the ADB shell, not for Windows.
Stylem32008 said:
Maybe I need some kind of drivers?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You need to get ADB working:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/wiki/BN_Nook_Simple_Touch/Installing_ADB
http://forum.xda-developers.com/wiki/Android_Debug_Bridge

Renate NST said:
Those commands were for the ADB shell, not for Windows.
You need to get ADB working:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/wiki/BN_Nook_Simple_Touch/Installing_ADB
http://forum.xda-developers.com/wiki/Android_Debug_Bridge
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But this doesnt work for me. I doesnt have android in my nook. I have the original SO(I dont know if this is android or not?)

LEGO Torrentbox powered by Raspberry Pi

I had the bright idea to build a "small" machine torrent, with a Raspberry, lots of LEGO and some electronic component.
What I present is a work built especially on spare time, still processing but working 24-hour a day!
What you see in the picture is the version that I called 3.0 for now I did the 1.0, 2.0, 3.0 and 3.5 (with Raspberry Pi B +)
The idea was born from a simple need: I could not keep the PC on all day to download torrents, or in other words, consuming energy and making some noise at night ... so I asked myself, what alternatives do I have? Internet answered me with "Raspberry Pi". I noticed some small projects that used the board as a machine used to download/upload torrents and my geeky addiction for those stuff made me immediately fell in love! I also noticed some projects that consisted of case for RPi made with LEGO, and I could not pull back in the face of challenge, partly because of the tons of bricks in the attic waiting to be exhumed after years ... at which point I thought, "Why i shouldn't build a case also for the hard disk?" and again: "Why do you not make a case that also contains all the cables?" and finally: "Ok, from the case there will be a single wire that goes to the wall outlet"
And so it was, that at the arrival of the mini-pc the work began!
The project had the following requirements:
- A case (preferably aestethically nice) made of LEGO
- No LEGO brick was to be mistreated (glue, holes, crimping), only removable housings with non-LEGO pieces
- A single wire for current input
- A cooling system
- The minimum number of non-LEGO parts visible from the outside
- A small display for any physical access to the machine
- A USB hub to connect USB drives, external hard drives, mouse + keyboard, etc.
- And above all, lots and lots and lots of patience and time!
A bit of schematics on paper, some boxes full of LEGO, and the site is now open!
Version 1.0
This is the case of the Raspberry only, easily removable from the rest of the building:
The hard-disk housing:
The fan! The tubes are taken from an old LEGO Mars base, and the air is pumped to the Raspberry (which has seen lowering its temperature of 40-45 Celsius degrees! This means that it works!) and all hard drives. The rear tubes instead are routing wires between the raspberry pi and the harddisk, and the central block. The fan is connected to a USB socket placed under the hub.
The gem of the goodies: fan control! The switch turns on and off the fan and set the red LED. The green LED is lit when the TorrentBox is attached to the current. The nice thing is that both lights are sticking perfectly LEGO holes!
The interiors of the beast (yes that it is a power strip down there!)
Whoops, i forgot the hub!
Overview:
Disco time!:
After a few days I realized how fragile the structure was, and in addition, I found the box with all the gray and dark LEGO, so i decided to do a more "professional" building and made it similar to a factory
Version 2.0
Designing the front writing
Spoiler
Internal...
...and external restructuring!
Final result:
At this point I said to myself: why not put some little LEGO man "at work" as it already seems like an industry? Said and done
After some time, with the arrival of the much coveted display (a vulgar 7" display with 800x480 resolution, the kind that you find in chinese car radios) i have began updating the now massive construction (20cm high and the base of the block was 25x15cm). In the project i also included a touchscreen with its USB adapter, but i accidentally broke the panel, and even though i have a spare one to grab from my old car radio, the configuration with raspbian was pretty mangy, and for now i left apart this addition: P
Version 3.0
Here is the housing for the screen (other 7cm in height!) The display has a hdmi connection that goes directly to the raspberry through the rear tubes:
Since my house, from time to time, is populated by various little cousins, I thought to give the beast a protective cover which, however, leaves a glimpse of the situation on the screen (incredibly 4 Droideka arms from Star Wars sets are strong enough to hold the lid firmly!)
Access to the display controls (which are connected via a flat cable to the display board)
Some cosmetic change here and there, to standardize everything
Here it is in function :
Version 3.5 has already the Raspberry Pi B + (the one with 4 usb ports) but is identical to the 3.0 for the moment. I will remove the hub (which is slow, and can only be used for a keyboard or a mouse), but to do this i should open everything but i am a little sick of putting hands into that mess (and i do not have so much time since I started working full-time)
However, sooner or later I'll put my hands into it, and of course I will post the results here!
Let me know what you liked, what you DO NOT liked and if you want to know something more about it (maybe I forgot to say something)... Bye!!
I also have a couple of videos that will upload soon!
P.S. Here are the links to the Imageshack and Tinypic album (they are identical), to see all the images:
Imageshack: https://imageshack.com/a/KfMq/1
Tinypic: http://it.tinypic.com/a/2v9ya/2

Wow this is amazing. Probably one of the best "cases" I have seen.
How is the daily performance of torrenting on the RPi? I always thought the USB ethernet driver would be slow, especially if buffering and spilling to external HDD. But maybe I am wrong and the RPi is a beast.

dyczone said:
Wow this is amazing. Probably one of the best "cases" I have seen.
How is the daily performance of torrenting on the RPi? I always thought the USB ethernet driver would be slow, especially if buffering and spilling to external HDD. But maybe I am wrong and the RPi is a beast.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As of now, with a wifi usb adapter, and an usb hdd attached, i have no problem downloading at 1MB/s
I used with ethernet in the past, and the performances were the same. I use an hdd with 2 partitions, one of 50GB, formatted as ext4 for incomplete downloads, once a download has completed, the rpi moves the file to the NTFS partition that has all the remaining space. This way i can view hdd contents directly with windows. The dual partition system has been made because downloading continuously onto a ntfs partition used too much cpu, but ext4 is natively supported by RPi, so no problem at all this way

FrankieDedo said:
As of now, with a wifi usb adapter, and an usb hdd attached, i have no problem downloading at 1MB/s
I used with ethernet in the past, and the performances were the same. I use an hdd with 2 partitions, one of 50GB, formatted as ext4 for incomplete downloads, once a download has completed, the rpi moves the file to the NTFS partition that has all the remaining space. This way i can view hdd contents directly with windows. The dual partition system has been made because downloading continuously onto a ntfs partition used too much cpu, but ext4 is natively supported by RPi, so no problem at all this way
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
8mbps isn't bad. That's solid if you are just going to leave it running all day everyday.
It's also pretty smart you are using 2 partitions. I would never have thought of that.

BTW what display did you use and can you use an car touchscreen as base too?

Sorry for refreshing but it's really great job here, I need to say that.
Wysłane z mojego SM-G850F przy użyciu Tapatalka

Glowlight Plus 7.8" 2019

Apparently Barnes and Noble has a new Nook.
http://www.barnesandnobleinc.com/press-release/barnes-noble-introduces-new-nook-just-time-summer/
They are apparently (over)using the name "Nook Glowlight".
It's 7.8" and has 8GB storage and sells for $199.
The last I checked, 16GB microSDs cost about $3.
The main B&N website still doesn't have anything about this.
Supposedly it will be available online on Wednesday, May 29, 2019.
I'm not sure that I like either 7.8" or $199.

I'm not sure I will like the 7.8" screen yet, but I haven't read anything yet. I think I will like the new size for reading, but dislike it for portability... It really looks and feels exactly like a NG3 that took an extra dose of vitamins...
I do like the fact that the rooting procedure was exactly like the NG3, though! Up and running with alternate launcher, fixed boot animation, and of course Calibre Companion. Thanks for all your help on the previous models - it has carried over to this one quite nicely.
---------- Post added at 04:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:52 PM ----------
Also, saw your post on the other site - short of a teardown, is there any diagnostics, etc. that I can run on the thing to give you some tech details?
I will try to see if I can pair any BT devices to it tonight - I have a couple keyboards and a BT remote that I can try out...
I agree the 8gb is a ridiculous storage - esp. since they obviously have in mind at least audiobook capabilities with the new audio jack...

spedinfargo said:
Up and running with ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wait a minute. You have one?
Could you please get me some info?
Code:
# cat /proc/cpuinfo [color=red]<-- copy/paste all the lines except don't paste your serial number!!![/color]
# cat /proc/meminfo [color=red]<-- we only need the first line[/color]
spedinfargo said:
short of a teardown...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You mean that everybody doesn't immediately do a teardown on their brand new device?

Renate NST said:
Wait a minute. You have one?
Could you please get me some info?
Code:
# cat /proc/cpuinfo [color=red]<-- copy/paste all the lines except don't paste your serial number!!![/color]
# cat /proc/meminfo [color=red]<-- we only need the first line[/color]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I thought you'd never ask
Yeah, I was going to pick it up last night (friend works at BN) but had to wait until noon today. They are doing a "soft release" of this thing (for lack of a better term). Guy at my small-ish town said they had almost sold out of their initial shipment (fourteen or so) which actually surprised me a bit.
Code:
Processor : ARMv7 Processor rev 10 (v7l)
BogoMIPS : 790.52
Features : swp half thumb fastmult vfp edsp neon vfpv3
CPU implementer : 0x41
CPU architecture: 7
CPU variant : 0x2
CPU part : 0xc09
CPU revision : 10
Hardware : Freescale i.MX 6SoloLite NTX Board
Revision : 60200
Serial : 0
MemTotal: 995848 kB
---------- Post added at 04:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:31 PM ----------
By the way, jptiger's summary post of how to root the GL3 (based mostly on your work, I think... and properly credited) very much works on this device. The only thing I changed was the model number in the .sh file...
https://forum.xda-developers.com/no...set-nook-glowlight-3-t3802331/page2?nocache=1

spedinfargo said:
Code:
Hardware : Freescale i.MX 6SoloLite NTX Board
MemTotal: 995848 kB
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh, so in short, it's exactly like the Glow 3 except they switched from 512M DRAM to 1G.

@spedinfargo one more thing, could you:
Code:
getprop ro.build.fingerprint
getprop ro.model
cat /sys/class/android_usb/android0/idVendor
cat /sys/class/android_usb/android0/idProduct
(I added some stuff before to that rooting post, but most of it was someone else's vold exploit.
I'm old skool, I root with a screwdriver!)

NOOK/ntx_6sl/ntx_6sl:4.4.2/KOT49H/50.0.114_user:user/release-keys
nothing for getprop ro.model
2080
000c
And it's 9.8 ounces if you're wondering.

spedinfargo said:
nothing for ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oops, I meant getprop ro.product.model
So, in short, the GL4 as compared to GL3:
Is 7.8" instead of 6"
Has 1G DRAM instead of 512M
Has Bluetooth
Has audio and headphone jack
VID/PID is 2080/000c
Everything else is exactly the same.
I can see that the 7.8" would be useful for PDFs, but why not go overboard and get an expensive 10" or something?
And I really hate the Neonode zForce IR touch sensing.
In ambient light the bezel creates annoying shadows and it's a dust catcher.

Renate NST said:
And I really hate the Neonode zForce IR touch sensing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Better this than poorly implemented elan touch like in GLP. Also, higher image clarity.

RyogoNA said:
Better this than poorly implemented elan touch like in GLP. Also, higher image clarity.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Huh? You mean the metal cased, white GL2? That's Elan and the display is fine.
Isn't that the only Nook eInk with capacitive?

Renate NST said:
Huh? You mean the metal cased, white GL2? That's Elan and the display is fine.
Isn't that the only Nook eInk with capacitive?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I mean Glowlight Plus, so yeah.
I have GLP, GL3 and Tolino Shine 2 (IR sensor) - image is perceivable sharper on both GL3 and Shine 2 than on GLP.
Also, GLP have one very annoying issue - it registers false touches very often and this issue is not related to nook fw, I'm using GLP with tolino fw currently and issue is still there.

RyogoNA said:
it registers false touches very often...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you mean "Home" touches? That is a known problem (with a known cure: https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=79438405&postcount=614 )
I've never found the screen itself to have problems with false touches.

Renate NST said:
Do you mean "Home" touches? That is a known problem (with a known cure: https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=79438405&postcount=614 )
I've never found the screen itself to have problems with false touches.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've read your solution regarding "home" button, but no, it is not about it.
It is actually a false touches in random places and they occur mostly when there is some animation on screen (like sliding left panel, or sliding keyboard) - I can record a video if you're curious. I heard that few other people was also suffering from this issue, but afaik it is not a wide-spread issue.

Bluetooth doesn't seem to work, at least with a keyboard or remote (the remote I have is just an emulated keyboard I think). When I turn on the BT in the standard Nook settings screen, I get an icon spinning (which I assume means it's i pairing mode) but it doesn't seem to detect any devices... I guess I could take it out to my car and try to pair to my stereo - maybe the BT is only intended as an output device for speakers/headphones (because of the audiobook capability).
All in all it probably won't be the best $200 I've ever spent, but by far not the worst either...

spedinfargo said:
Bluetooth doesn't seem to work, at least with a keyboard or remote (the remote I have is just an emulated keyboard I think). When I turn on the BT in the standard Nook settings screen, I get an icon spinning (which I assume means it's i pairing mode) but it doesn't seem to detect any devices... I guess I could take it out to my car and try to pair to my stereo - maybe the BT is only intended as an output device for speakers/headphones (because of the audiobook capability).
All in all it probably won't be the best $200 I've ever spent, but by far not the worst either...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was able to pair the Nook to an audio device - in this case the stereo in my car. So that seems to confirm that the BT is meant for audio output.
I don't know enough about BT and Android to know if there is another secret setting somewhere that can be exposed to see if there is also input capability. It would be a shame if there wasn't some way to take advantage and have some sort of input capability (I'm thinking of Renate's remote page turner capability...)

I just got the Nook GL 7.8 for my birthday but I've found that I don't have a screensaver setting like I did on my first GL (meaning the screensaver setting doesn't show up AT ALL). Anyone know how to fix that? My software is up to date.

Just a heads up.
The case is a bit hard to split.
After you get there you'll see that everything is coated with a pesky conformal coating, much like Elmer's glue on your skin.
There is the standard root console available on 3.3V, 115200-8-n-1
Photos to follow.

Here's a blog with some info and a teardown:
http://www.temblast.com/blogs/glow4/blog.htm

Renate NST said:
Here's a blog with some info and a teardown:
http://www.temblast.com/blogs/glow4/blog.htm
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the info. Given that one has to apply voltage to trigger the OTG mode. does that mean e.g. we cannot hook up a flash drive to the glowlight plus?
Does the GL+ support A2 mode for e.g. web browsing? What about pitch-to-zoom -- for epub AND for pdf?
Could some who own a GL+ kindly sideload
* alreader and see if the eink mode works?
* vncviewer and see if it is usable? (for text/pdf, NOT graphics/videos)
I called/visited 5 BN stores within a 100 miles radius and I couldn't find a single one Either GL+ sells really well or BN messes up their supply chain...
THANKS for the info!

case-sensitive said:
Given that one has to apply voltage to trigger the OTG mode...
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Click to collapse
The actual trigger for OTG is the (disconnected) ID pin which we are sneakily manipulating.
The problem is that the Nooks apparently don't have the hardware to supply power.
The smallest solution for an external SD card would be a special USB Y cable, a thumb drive and a USB power pack.
There is the potential to wire in an SD card inside the Glow4.
There is not an actual SD socket footprint on the PCB but there are test points.
I'll check that out.
Still, as I've proven, you have to be very careful opening the case.