Database Users

Is swapping fully charged batteries better than recharging in-phone?

I bought an extra battery and charger on my Evo and noticed that recently, my Evo battery is now performing WORSE than the cheap Chinese generic knockoff battery.
The Chinese one use to run about 1 - 1.5days but now runs over 2 days (thanks to new kernel by HTC).
However, the red battery which used to give me 2 - 2.5 days run time (on older kernel), now only runs for 12hrs.
Any ideas?

Are you charging the stock red battery with the Chinese charger? You shouldnt do that. But as far as the chinese batteries, it doesn matter how you charge them.

Go into a battery program, spareparts or batteryinfo widget, and see if they are charging to the same voltage. I have several htc batteries with all about the same use, I have 2 of them that are almost a 100mv lower then the others so I "top" them off by unplugging and replugging them in a few times while charging.

sitlet said:
Are you charging the stock red battery with the Chinese charger? You shouldnt do that. But as far as the chinese batteries, it doesn matter how you charge them.
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Where did you get this info? The external chinese chargers are a slower, less powerful charge. I get more juice out of the battery than charging it in the phone, due to the quick 10% drop. Everything I have ever read says that slower charging is better for the battery in the long run. Please link where you got this from.

I have 2 batteries, the red one, and one that came with my Hero. I charge them in the cheap charger and rarely actually charge the phone.
I see no difference in battery life.

the whole quick charge tech is no good, my $4 chinese charger (no quick charge crap) works way better then charging in phone, i had an older laptop, one of the first to claim quick charge, with a battery that was wearing down about maybe 90-60min got an external charger that charges slowly and managed to recondition the already 4yr old battery to run 3hrs but went back to charging on laptop and battery slowly ran down again to about 1hr

On my PHILLIPS ppc6700, I had done this exact thing, with an eBay battery. I noticed NO difference between the two batteries, and I even ran synthetic tests to confirm. I believe I posted those results a LONG time ago on ppcfreaks.
I then bought the Saedo (sp?) 3700 ma/hr piece with the extended battery door and the dock, and that thing kicked ass. I would get like a week with an overclocked proc on fast evdo and a cooked ROM nue2chem I believe, its been a long time.
Then with my 6800 things got really bad. I went through maybe 6 phones from dead charging ports. I honestly felt like at least half of those failures (which were all replaced basically no questions asked, besides one) were due to gas-station car charges and laptop cords. Such a nightmare.
My guess is that most mini usb port failures from back then were due to the actual design standard being so loose that knock off, low cost manufacturers without precise and developed manufacturing techniques were marketing chargers that would arc my usb port to death over like a 1 hr drive. This is of course a guess. When Sprint questioned my one replacement I simply had the guy who had my phone taken apart bust out his magnifying glass and we could both clearly see burnt leads on the PCB. Couldn't see with the naked eye.
Also that older standard was thicker, and it thus exerted a little more tensional force on the port/PCB, which could have created the same effect.
Flash forward to my Evo: the new micro usb standard is FAR superior to the previous. No issues so far. Other chargers seem to work fine, without issue. You bet I was suspicious though, and I did all my checking within the return period. They DON'T have more Evos, so if you think that 8 dollars saved on a charger or something is worth it, Kool. Just as long as everyone knows the risks that have historically been associated with cheap chargers. At least anecdotally.
I would possibly consider some extended evo batter package if it was cool looking. Clear backed and extended maybe? With a small led batter level indicator on the battery itself, shining through the back with a small integrated button press.
Sent from my PC36100 using XDA Ape

cruecu said:
Where did you get this info? The external chinese chargers are a slower, less powerful charge. I get more juice out of the battery than charging it in the phone, due to the quick 10% drop. Everything I have ever read says that slower charging is better for the battery in the long run. Please link where you got this from.
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same id have to agree with this !

to clarify, the chargers i use are external not a phone charger, i wouldnt use a cheap charger on any of my phones

sitlet said:
Are you charging the stock red battery with the Chinese charger? You shouldnt do that. But as far as the chinese batteries, it doesn matter how you charge them.
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Yes, i never charge from the phone anymore. I just use the phone till it dies and then swap with a fresh ly charged battery. I charge both of them in the cheap charger.
I was thinking that maybe the phone battery recalibration got whacked? Just a guess.

Any battery charges better with a lower amp charge period. I charge my deep cell boat batteries at the beginning of the season on 2 amp trickle charge. I have had them for 10 years now. Way over the life expectancy. I charge my evo batteries on a 400 milli amp wall charger. Way better charge and they charge 100% everytime.
Sent from my PC36100 using XDA App

Okay, I'm convinced. I'm slow charging mine in an external charger.

treckin said:
On my PHILLIPS ppc6700, I had done this exact thing, with an eBay battery. I noticed NO difference between the two batteries, and I even ran synthetic tests to confirm. I believe I posted those results a LONG time ago on ppcfreaks.
I then bought the Saedo (sp?) 3700 ma/hr piece with the extended battery door and the dock, and that thing kicked ass. I would get like a week with an overclocked proc on fast evdo and a cooked ROM nue2chem I believe, its been a long time.
Then with my 6800 things got really bad. I went through maybe 6 phones from dead charging ports. I honestly felt like at least half of those failures (which were all replaced basically no questions asked, besides one) were due to gas-station car charges and laptop cords. Such a nightmare.
My guess is that most mini usb port failures from back then were due to the actual design standard being so loose that knock off, low cost manufacturers without precise and developed manufacturing techniques were marketing chargers that would arc my usb port to death over like a 1 hr drive. This is of course a guess. When Sprint questioned my one replacement I simply had the guy who had my phone taken apart bust out his magnifying glass and we could both clearly see burnt leads on the PCB. Couldn't see with the naked eye.
Also that older standard was thicker, and it thus exerted a little more tensional force on the port/PCB, which could have created the same effect.
Flash forward to my Evo: the new micro usb standard is FAR superior to the previous. No issues so far. Other chargers seem to work fine, without issue. You bet I was suspicious though, and I did all my checking within the return period. They DON'T have more Evos, so if you think that 8 dollars saved on a charger or something is worth it, Kool. Just as long as everyone knows the risks that have historically been associated with cheap chargers. At least anecdotally.
I would possibly consider some extended evo batter package if it was cool looking. Clear backed and extended maybe? With a small led batter level indicator on the battery itself, shining through the back with a small integrated button press.
Sent from my PC36100 using XDA Ape
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Click to collapse
Not to go off topic but you typed all this on your evo? Does your finger hurt?
Sent from my PC36100 using XDA App

Build a wind-up charger for your phone for under $10

Build a wind-up charger for your phone, brought to you by ultramodder Ben Heck
Beware, this requires some knowledge of a soldering iron.
This sounds like a cool idea, I may try it out for myself!

steveyoo97 said:
Build a wind-up charger for your phone, brought to you by ultramodder Ben Heck
Beware, this requires some knowledge of a soldering iron.
This sounds like a cool idea, I may try it out for myself!
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Click to collapse
Any idea what the gel used to hold the USB port in place is? I've got all of that stuff already...except for the gel.

KWKSLVR said:
Any idea what the gel used to hold the USB port in place is? I've got all of that stuff already...except for the gel.
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Hot glue maybe? Kinda what it looks like to me.

That's the only thing I can think of.

Interesting.
I carry one of these and a USB cable in my backpack if I'm going to be away from the house or car for an extended period, just in case:
http://www.batteryspace.com/batteryholderaax4withusbinterfaceconnectorandbeltcliponoffpowerswitch-rohscompliant.aspx
Works great and has saved me several times.

My eyes are rusty. Is that a 1/4 watt 10 ohm resister he uses or a 1/8 watt 10 ohm resister?
It should be a 1/4, right?
Current isn't exactly my strong suit....but I'm always up for experimentation.

Flak_Munky said:
Hot glue maybe? Kinda what it looks like to me.
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Hot glue is sometimes good but it can break loose
At a Hardware or Home depot store you can buy plumber goop, it is polymer soft hardening adhesive (really it is wet suit patch glue) anyway it sticks to EVERYTHING ! so is you use this wear glove and make sure you do not get it on you it ihard to get off Denatured Alcohol works...kinda
BUT........ this is great stuff for those real odd fix needs....... oh ya it also will fix a leaking pipe

KWKSLVR said:
My eyes are rusty. Is that a 1/4 watt 10 ohm resister he uses or a 1/8 watt 10 ohm resister?
It should be a 1/4, right?
Current isn't exactly my strong suit....but I'm always up for experimentation.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think it is 1/4. But I am not 100%.
I had some free time this last week or so, and I put one together and I used the 1/4. I had to improvise on the USB adapter (cut the end from a cable and tried to clean it up - works but not perfect need to order some USB ends for this).
It does work, but the best I could get was about 40 mAh output, so this would take forever to charge a device enough to do anything with. I'm looking at experimenting with a larger flashlight, hopefully one with a better generator/gear ratios to produce a little higher output.
Also, thinking about a dual purpose one. Crank + a solar cell that I found that in full direct sunlight can produce a high enough voltage and about 100 mAh. This stuff is not my forte, but I like to play around and experiment.

Galaxy Note Inductive Charging Mod

I modified my Galaxy Note to use inductive charging via a palm touchstone / patch.
Just a quick note. Not a whole lot to contribute here, because I largely followed the examples of the Qian Qi. That guy is awesome.
I don't think I voided a warranty, either. Only minimal teardown required (black plastic back, then the speaker section). Never came across a sticker I had to remove....
Useful links:
galaxy s inductive charging mod
evo 4g induction charging mod
galaxy note teardown video
galaxy note teardown pics
Notes:
- Buy a good soldering iron. Weller WESD51, set to 610 deg F, with 1/32" long conical tip, with lots of flux and lots of flux remover are the only reason I could do this. I can't stress enough the value of having good temperature control, knowledge of temperature, and so forth. I stumbled around with an "ordinary" soldering iron for a long time, and in hindsite, I can't believe I did so.
- Do not choke on the price. I already had a lot of soldering gear, and I bought $220 more. Spend the money. It's worth it.
- Watch the curious inventor youtube videos on soldering. This guy. Watch everything, several times. http://store.curiousinventor.com/
- You want 30 gauge wire. It's the only thing that just barely can be crammed in. I used the "Kynar" coated type. Buy at least 2 colors.
- as you look at the phone disassembled, with speaker on the bottom left, the +5 pin on the micro usb (MHL) port is the leftmost. I attached a wire to that, and a ground wire to the housing where the port was soldered.
- routed the wires under the speaker, then back, then into a VERY slight indentation into the battery compartment. used a blue "safe open" tool to help shape the wire / crimp ends. Once in the battery compartment, you're golden. Attach the inductive charging coil to the back of the samsung plastic back, add solder to the pads, and attach the wires.
- Attached is a picture with roughly how I routed wires. Red is +5V, Blue is ground. Be sure and double check if my recollection is right where the indentation is into the battery compartment. (that part is by memory).
- dont leave too much slack. it's really hard to get the samsung black pastic panel back on. Mine very slightly bulges.
- be careful where you put the charging sticky patch, because this phone is a little bit bigger than a palm pre. You have to consider if the phone can sit on the charger and "lock in" with the magnets. If you place it too high, it actually can't (in portrait)!
- Qian Qi had a really interesting point: most articles about how Li-ion batteries behave are wrong, and fully discharging the battery drastically reduces the number of cycles you have. So this is actually a very useful mod--whenever you don't use the phone, toss it on the charger.

Thanks for summing it up! Was actually thinking of doing this mod myself. Question: do you have a protective case on your Note? If so - what kind and how badly does it affect the magnetic properties?

No case. Especially because the note is so big, I think it would be unmanageable.
I took the samsung thin plastic back, and placed the Palm PRE (with charging coil still attached) on top of it, on the touchstone -- to figure out proper placement & mark with a pencil. I noticed a buzzing sound, coming from (I think) the induction coil on the palm pre back itself. I suspect if you use a case, this wont work well.
Also, the size/weight/placement of the galaxy note are such that the magnets are just barely strong enough to hold it. One time my phone was near, but off, the charger. I'm not sure if vibration from the phone did that, or my kids
In summary, I'm not sure how well it would work with a case. You might be able to research this on the net; among the 15 or 20 people that have bought a Pre, you might be able to find some info about the effect of a case on inductive charging.

tight squeeze?
im wanting to try this mod i have my touchstone on the way not thank you amazon but it seems like to me that the pad from the pre wouldnt fit under the cover of our phablet =/ could you post pics of the finished product and i think this is the only instance that i have seen someone attempt this with the note and i want to try it i love my note but would love it even more with inductive charging.

I am not the original author but I performed a different Touchstone mod and posted pics here:
http://forums.androidcentral.com/sa...1-galaxy-note-touchstone-mod-photo-heavy.html
Hope it helps!
-darren
Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 2

Thank you!!!
Thank you so much for your post I have my materials on the way but I hadn't seen a detailed guide for the note other than this one and was worried I would have to solder directly to the usb pins which looked scary lol I did have two questions though would your mod work the same way for the at&t note? Specifically the points where you soldered to the phone and can wireless charging be performed through a case?

Hey, OP here. You may want to hold off just a bit. Mine is exhibiting some issues now. As in, it says "charging" but it doesn't do so wirelessly. The phone will stay "charging" but the battery % never goes up. (It was slow before, but would charge fully over a night).
Charging via USB still works.
It may be something simple; I'm not sure. But I need to crack it open and take a peek, and I haven't had time to do that yet because my phone is functional at the moment.
If nothing has conspicuously changed, there may be something about the design that isn't sustainable. Or maybe my solder joint halfway broke, or one of the wires got smashed enough so that it's partially broken...
I'll write back with my findings. Bug me if I don't

Thanks for the notice I was about to pull the trigger lol tbh I probably shouldn't attempt this I've never done a mod like this before and I'm not exactly a surgeon with a soldering iron lolvthatvbeing being said I'm going to attempt this on an old evo 4g I have before I do surgery on my baby lol plus I'm already familiar with the guts of an evo from screen repairs ill report back with my results
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using xda premium

Success it took some doing but I got it I haven't done the mod on my note yet but I did it on my evo last night and it works its rough I haven't cleaned it up yet but I'll post the pics I got this mod from www.goodandevo.net
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using xda premium

Thank you for this post.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk

No prob I just wanted to see if i could do it and if I can do it with little soldering experience I'm sure most could do it I haven't done this mod to my galaxy note though as there is way less room in its a far more complicated mod than the evo because you have to make room for wires in a device samsung made as thin as possible and the way you have to route the wires I feel like the solder joints would just break
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using xda app-developers app

For those who want to try this out but still have warrantee just buy a backcover, a micro usb plug and assemble it according to the directions here.If you need the note just take out the usb plug and the back cover and you're good to go.... Or leave it there.....
For those who don't know what pins to use on the usb plug:
Pin: 1 is 5V+ (red)
Pin: 5 is GND (black)
Works like a charm.......
becosemsaida

Cool mod! Does it affect the stylus operation though?

pboesboes said:
Cool mod! Does it affect the stylus operation though?
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Click to collapse
yes it affects the stylus sometimes it reacts with delay and sometimes it clicks although only hovers over it

pboesboes said:
Cool mod! Does it affect the stylus operation though?
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Click to collapse
I was not a big stylus user; I can't stand the input lag. I didn't notice a difference, but I always considered the input speed unacceptable. Not sure why there would be any difference, anyway.
My big problem that I've never taken the time to address is that after some time, it's as though I can't pull enough current through the wires to charge. One day I need to crack this open & figure out why.

gr8 n interesting post
wonder how fast can a full charge be completed
regards

strategist99 said:
gr8 n interesting post
wonder how fast can a full charge be completed
regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is slower than normal, but completed in a night. I still have not dismantled my phone to attempt to repair this, but I want to soon

Battery replacement, is it worth it and can you fit a larger one inside?

Hi everyone,
I have had my Nexus 4 for over a year and have noticed that the battery just doesn't last as long as it used to. So I ask, those who have replaced it, is it worth it and do you see a difference? Also, can you fit a larger battery inside with the glass back still intact? Like maybe a 2500 size instead of the stock 2100?

It's not worth it until you rule out other causes of the battery draining. Software is the problem 99 times out of 100. You should only ever replace the battery with an original one.

22sl22 said:
Hi everyone,
I have had my Nexus 4 for over a year and have noticed that the battery just doesn't last as long as it used to. So I ask, those who have replaced it, is it worth it and do you see a difference? Also, can you fit a larger battery inside with the glass back still intact? Like maybe a 2500 size instead of the stock 2100?
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Click to collapse
After about 500 cycles, a lithium rechargeable battery will have lost upwards of 20% of its original capacity. If you charge more than once a day, you could have reached that point by now. A new battery is about $20 off eBay. I can't comment on the difference it actually makes because I got my Nexus 4 with a broken screen and replaced the screen and battery at the same time.
You can also extend your battery life by flashing a custom kernel like HellsCore (which is slightly undervolted) and play around with underclocking, undervolting, different governors, and running on fewer cores. For example, I've kept mine at a dual core 1.2GHz with intellidemand governor (CM11), and it still runs smoothly most of the time, with only the occasional hint of stutter. And if you want to play a game or something, just crank everything back up. And of course there's the obvious battery-saving methods, like turning screen brightness down, disabling GPS/wi-fi, synching less often, and limiting data to 3G instead of 4G. Plus the less obvious methods like Greenify and/or Tasker.
To my knowledge, there's no higher capacity batteries, or even external battery cases for the Nexus 4.

Planterz said:
After about 500 cycles, a lithium rechargeable battery will have lost upwards of 20% of its original capacity. If you charge more than once a day, you could have reached that point by now. A new battery is about $20 off eBay. I can't comment on the difference it actually makes because I got my Nexus 4 with a broken screen and replaced the screen and battery at the same time.
You can also extend your battery life by flashing a custom kernel like HellsCore (which is slightly undervolted) and play around with underclocking, undervolting, different governors, and running on fewer cores. For example, I've kept mine at a dual core 1.2GHz with intellidemand governor (CM11), and it still runs smoothly most of the time, with only the occasional hint of stutter. And if you want to play a game or something, just crank everything back up. And of course there's the obvious battery-saving methods, like turning screen brightness down, disabling GPS/wi-fi, synching less often, and limiting data to 3G instead of 4G. Plus the less obvious methods like Greenify and/or Tasker.
To my knowledge, there's no higher capacity batteries, or even external battery cases for the Nexus 4.
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DrFredPhD said:
It's not worth it until you rule out other causes of the battery draining. Software is the problem 99 times out of 100. You should only ever replace the battery with an original one.
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Click to collapse
Thanks for the replies.
I've tried software tweaks, kernel tweaks, everything, greenify all things in that sorts, different kernel profiles etc. It makes a difference but still not as good as it used to be. I might as well try replacing it, I can always put the old battery back in if I want, not that hard to change. There's a Galaxy S3 battery, I think its the same size, not sure with a higher capacity, same size, same voltage etc I could go for that if I wanted to :good:
Sent from my Nexus 4

22sl22 said:
There's a Galaxy S3 battery, I think its the same size, not sure with a higher capacity, same size, same voltage etc I could go for that if I wanted to :good:
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Click to collapse
Have you seen what the N4's battery and connector looks like? That ain't gonna work. It won't fit, for one thing. Wrong shape, and the N4 battery is pretty slim because it doesn't have a stiff protective covering (it's actually kinda flexible - be careful prying it off the adhesive) and even if you found a battery that did fit, you'd have to rig up some sort of splice for the connector, which would probably take up more space, defeating the purpose of finding a higher capacity battery.
I did find a couple battery cases. There's the Mugen 4500mAh, but it's both freaking huge and freaking expensive (nearly 1" thick, $90), and the ZeroLemon, but it's also freaking huge, only has a (removable) 2200mAh battery, and I can't find one anywhere actually for sale.

Planterz said:
Have you seen what the N4's battery and connector looks like? That ain't gonna work. It won't fit, for one thing. Wrong shape, and the N4 battery is pretty slim because it doesn't have a stiff protective covering (it's actually kinda flexible - be careful prying it off the adhesive) and even if you found a battery that did fit, you'd have to rig up some sort of splice for the connector, which would probably take up more space, defeating the purpose of finding a higher capacity battery.
I did find a couple battery cases. There's the Mugen 4500mAh, but it's both freaking huge and freaking expensive (nearly 1" thick, $90), and the ZeroLemon, but it's also freaking huge, only has a (removable) 2200mAh battery, and I can't find one anywhere actually for sale.
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Yeah I've seen all the cases already. Too big. I don't mind doing surgery on the battery to make it work but only if I can find a higher capacity one that's gonna fit I'll consider it.
Sent from my Nexus 4

22sl22 said:
Yeah I've seen all the cases already. Too big. I don't mind doing surgery on the battery to make it work but only if I can find a higher capacity one that's gonna fit I'll consider it.
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I've thought about trying getting a new back cover (minus the glass), cutting a chunk out of it, and rigging up a larger capacity battery. It's the connector that stops me (that, and my lack of knowledge and tools to do so).

Planterz said:
I've thought about trying getting a new back cover (minus the glass), cutting a chunk out of it, and rigging up a larger capacity battery. It's the connector that stops me (that, and my lack of knowledge and tools to do so).
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Just do this. This is where I got the surgery idea. Bit complex but it seems like its worth it :good:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/nexus-4/general/4200mah-nexus-4-internal-battery-t2239829
Sent from my Nexus 4

There is no way you're going to put an s3 battery into a nexus 4 and have good results, please put any notion of this out of your head now, it's pretty absurd. Also you may struggle to use your original battery after replacement, a lot of people damage it during removal.

DrFredPhD said:
There is no way you're going to put an s3 battery into a nexus 4 and have good results, please put any notion of this out of your head now, it's pretty absurd. Also you may struggle to use your original battery after replacement, a lot of people damage it during removal.
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Click to collapse
Look at the above thread, its possible and doable, not absurd.
I'll be careful when taking it out, its easier with a hair dryer because of the adhesive under the battery
Sent from my Nexus 4

Anyone who did it is an absolute idiot, but whatever, melt your phone and burn your face off if you want. Notice how there are no follow up posts from anyone even a month down the line in that thread, I think they all died (but seriously, their battery is ****ed now and they're too embarrassed to post anything)
But here's some videos of lithium batteries exploding from incorrect charging
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMy2_qNO2Y0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VswaFOrVM6I
Also the fact you want to use a samsung battery has me even more concerned
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=s...HV0QXy24CoCQ&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ&biw=1366&bih=643
http://www.androidpolice.com/2013/0...-burn-from-a-galaxy-s3-samsungs-off-the-hook/ (This girl used a fake s3 battery, in an actual s3. You're gonna put a fake s3 battery in a Nexus 4?!?!?!)

I agree with what DrFredPhD said, LIB are very dangerous if tampered with or altered physically.

If you're really having drastic differences in battery life then you're supposes to then I would suggest you replace your N4 battery with an original one itself, don't go for any other options

stazi34 said:
I agree with what DrFredPhD said, LIB are very dangerous if tampered with or altered physically.
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Yeah, running/charging multiple lithium batteries typically isn't a good idea. But the videos that DrFredPhD posted aren't what you'll get with a cell phone battery.
Li-ion and Li-po batteries in commercial devices have built-in circuitry to prevent overcharging, overdischarging, reverse polarity, and short circuits. If you short it, the circuitry kicks in and kills everything. Putting it back in the device/charger resets the kill switch. Same if the charge gets too high, or the discharge gets to low. Circuity switches the battery off, and prevents overcharging and runaway discharging.
Those videos show batteries that don't have that circuitry. Either it was removed, or they're cells used by hobbiests and were purchased unprotected. Unprotected cells are available for hobbiests (R/C stuff, high-powered flashlights, etc) and some use them because the circuitry in protected cells leeches a bit of your juice. In an R/C car, that could mean a few more seconds and one more completed lap, in an R/C plane or helicopter, a few more seconds of air time before you crash. But there are obvious dangers.
Those dangers don't exist with commercial protected batteries. Well, they do, but that's when you buy a cheap knock-off from China, or the cell is defective, like those Sony and Dell laptops that were catching fire several years ago.
But even with protected commercial batteries, problems can occur (just not explosively dangerous ones). If the cells are mismatched in capacity, or one has a higher charge than the other, the higher capacity one will try to charge the other one, and the battery life of both will suffer, plus since they're also trying to power the device or receive a charge, they'll get really hot and can be damaged. Running identical cells is one thing. Charging should be done separately so that they start off the same. It's not the same as with a laptop or electric car, because they have additional circuitry to make things safe. It's also not the same as using a battery bank to power/charge your device, because effectively, that's just the same as plugging into a USB jack.

Battery Monitor Widget Pro is reporting around 1700mAh or less to me now so I'm wondering if my battery also needs to be replaced... Happy to use quality OEM but can it be done myself or should I pay someone?

DroidBois said:
Battery Monitor Widget Pro is reporting around 1700mAh or less to me now so I'm wondering if my battery also needs to be replaced... Happy to use quality OEM but can it be done myself or should I pay someone?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can replace it yourself. You'll need a T5 TORX driver for the screws at the bottom of the phone, and then something thin to pry the halves apart, preferably plastic so you don't damage your phone's body. It helps to heat it up with a hairdryer to soften the glue.
As for that app, I don't know if I trust it.

No battery.. Any way to turn on?

Recently digged out my old Qtek 9000 from the closet, and want to get it turned on again, but i have no battery.. It had swollen up years ago, so i threw it out.
Is there any way i can get the device to turn on again? Plugging in the mini usb charger, and i get a steady red led on the device but not able to turn it on. I tried attaching a powersupply of 3.7v to the + and - min but still nothing..
Any tricks?

Replace battery. It can damage the device severely or worse.
Any swelling is a failure.
Do Not attempt to charge a failed Li!!!
Without the battery to supply enough current, it can not boot. The charger can't sink enough current for a boot up...

blackhawk said:
Replace battery. It can damage the device severely or worse.
Any swelling is a failure.
Do Not attempt to charge a failed Li!!!
Without the battery to supply enough current, it can not boot. The charger can't sink enough current for a boot up...
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Where to find a battery in the EU though?

Don't know. Sorry. Li's have a limited self life too of about 3-4 years max.

blackhawk said:
Don't know. Sorry. Li's have a limited self life too of about 3-4 years max.
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Oh.. Guess its a goner by now then. What a shame. Thanks for your input!

Da9L said:
Oh.. Guess its a goner by now then. What a shame. Thanks for your input!
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You can find or adapt a battery if you put some time into it... depends if it's worth it to you.
I have a 12yo flip top ruggedized phone that still boots

So to get the device to turn on with a another battery of the same voltage.. Should i only need to connect the two pins on each end of the pins on the device ?

Da9L said:
So to get the device to turn on with a another battery of the same voltage.. Should i only need to connect the two pins on each end of the pins on the device ?
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If there's only 2 pins, yes. The polarity must be correct!
Soldering to the mobo van be tricky if you're not proficient at doing it. Not the place to learn! The mobo landings can easily be destroyed by excess or prolonged heat. Prolonged is measured in seconds like 1-3 @ 725F with well tinned tip using 60/40 or better 63/37 lead based rosin core solder only. A tin or bottle of rosin flux can be useful.
You may only get one shot at it...solder pad landing repairs are even more difficult.
It wire is used, very thin gauge stranded only and always pretinned.