I just received my Pumpkin KD-C0224 Double Din Head Unit in the mail today and I just finished installing all the wiring. for WHATEVER reason, after it boots for 30 seconds in a black screen... it says "NO SIGNAL!" in red letters..
Has anyone experienced this?
Sounds like you've connected the reverse wire to +12V, and it's expecting a video signal in the camera input.
unscathed said:
I just received my Pumpkin KD-C0224 Double Din Head Unit in the mail today and I just finished installing all the wiring. for WHATEVER reason, after it boots for 30 seconds in a black screen... it says "NO SIGNAL!" in red letters..
Has anyone experienced this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
your connection wrong . on the ISO cable ,get a wire named "Back "or "reverse ",this is reverse signal detect wire .i considering you connected this wire to +12V power ,it is connected to your reverse light +12V
disconnected this wire would be fine
Related
[SOLVED] TL: DR: Diagram show pink wire is for backup camera when the correct wire is brown as indicated by the tag on the wire itself.
I've had my SWM 8802 for about 8 months. I've always used a separate dashcam/backup cam combo, but also purchased a separate backup cam with an RCA output jack, and now I want to use it with my SWM 8802.
My head unit has a dedicated app from the home screen named AV In. Without anything connected (or connected but not powered, it just remains at the boot screen. Now my backup camera is tested and working. It has a power jack and an RCA jack. I tested this by hooking up a 12v 1A power adapter to it and an RCA cable from it to a TV, and it works. So with my vehicle I have the same power adapter connected to an extension cord. and it lights up.
The rear of my head unit has AV1, and AV2 (which I found out are video outputs), but it also has CAMIN and CVBSIN. Whne I have the camera going to CAMIN, and the AV In app activated, nothing shows up except the AV IN boot screen. However when I have the same RCA cable from the camera to the CVBSIN my head unit displays a red warning triangle with, "Viewing while driving strictly prohibited. Parking Break must be engaged to view." I don't know what the CVBS IN does, but if that's the only video port that works I'd like to find a way to disable that parking break sensor. Otherwise, why is the CAMIN not working the way it should? I can't have a backup camera if I have to have the parking brake enabled.
Attached is a photo of the wiring diagram that was advertised with the head unit. What steps should I take? The original RCA video cable has a red wire at both ends. What should those get attached to?
CAMIN is the input for the backup camera (CVBS camera - RCA plug).
CVBSIN is the input for the AUX AV IN camera (CVBS camera - RCA plug).
The backup camera will only display when triggered by the reverse gear signal... The pink wire in your image (PARKING SENSOR CONTROL) needs 12VDC when the vehicle is in reverse gear. This is usually connected to one of the reverse lamps at the rear of the vehicle (as is the power connector for the camera) so that the camera is powered up and the head unit switches tyo the camera input at the same time. The red wire in the video cable makes this easy... Attach the red wire to the pink wire at the head unit and connect the red wire to the power wire at the camera.
On almost all android head units, the backup (reverse) camera input is not available to the android operating system, so no android app can display the rear camera. The backup camera output is connected directly to the screen via the MCU so that the image is available even before the android operating system has booted.
The CVBSIN is the auxiliary in. Most unit require the brake wire (brown wire in your image) to be connected to ground before the image is displayed, for safety reasons. You can usually bypass it by connecting the brown wire directly to ground, or by selecting the bypass option that is available in the advanced car settings of most android head units.
That is excellent information! I wish that was included with the manual for all Android head units. I will try your suggestions and follow up. Thank you for this!
At first I tried the red wire to the stereo and no luck, only to come back and re-read the message and see that it should be a pink wire. I tried that = same.
Prior to this and after my first post. I had taken a terminal block and ran ring terminals to it. I hooked up my existing backup camera to it and it works fine, so I know those terminals are good. I ran new ones from the power connector + and - to the same terminals = still no video and no power to the camera. I made sure the car was on and the gear was in reverse. Perhaps I have to solder these ones on. Seems like the wires are a very small gauge for some reason. My alternative was to use an extension cord and plug that into the power of the camera, then test the video the Android head unit.
I just went ahead and bought a fuse tap, going to try that for the backup camera. I bought two, so if needed I can use another one to supply power to the camera itself.
I got it! It turns out that while the diagram showed the pink wire for the backup camera, the wire was labeled (or colored) wrong. I was out at my car this morning going to attempt it again when I traced the brown wire from the harness and it read "BACK". After some fiddling, I routed everything correctly including the powered RCA cable to a positive for the backup light, and the positive on the other end to the brown wire terminal. I started it up, hit the AV app, put it in reverse, and it displayed! So, it appears that when it down, use pink or brown to determine which one works.
I have a similar issue. My vehicle harness plugs straight in but its missing the cables for the brake. Is there a way of finding this easily? The cam works when plugged into the additional AV socket but so far can get it to work off the reverse.
Thanks.
So I've had absolutely no help from Atoto support on this, but the problem I'm facing is that each time I turn the key or flick right on to ignition my unit boots from scratch each time. I really had hoped for a 2s boot up not complete power on cycles.
If it's a case of my wiring, the harness goes into a steering wheel loom (Connect2) and then on to the car plug. There isn't any visible option of running the yellow wire to a permanent 12v source. It's possible all is wired up correctly and my vehicle (Nissan nv200) has a switched feed. Any thoughts?
invertgoat said:
So I've had absolutely no help from Atoto support on this, but the problem I'm facing is that each time I turn the key or flick right on to ignition my unit boots from scratch each time. I really had hoped for a 2s boot up not complete power on cycles.
If it's a case of my wiring, the harness goes into a steering wheel loom (Connect2) and then on to the car plug. There isn't any visible option of running the yellow wire to a permanent 12v source. It's possible all is wired up correctly and my vehicle (Nissan nv200) has a switched feed. Any thoughts?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You'll need to get a multimeter and check to see if the 12v constant wire is truly getting a constant 12v. Test it as soon as you turn the key off and if it does have 12v then wait a couple hours and test it before turning the ignition on to ensure it's not something in the vehicle that is turning it off after a period of time.
If at any time that wire does not have a constant 12v then it's an issue/'feature' with your vehicle. If it always has 12v then potentially an issue with the HU.
kramttocs said:
You'll need to get a multimeter and check to see if the 12v constant wire is truly getting a constant 12v. Test it as soon as you turn the key off and if it does have 12v then wait a couple hours and test it before turning the ignition on to ensure it's not something in the vehicle that is turning it off after a period of time.
If at any time that wire does not have a constant 12v then it's an issue/'feature' with your vehicle. If it always has 12v then potentially an issue with the HU.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Since my OP I actually cut and fused the yellow wire on my harness out of the unit to a permanent 12v source on my fusebox. I then cut the red accessory wire on the head unit and connected it to the yellow wire on the harness. Kind od screwy and in reverse but I guess it makes sense as my old radio didn't need a permanent 12v. It was a simple on off thing.
Fingers crossed I haven't flattened my battery...
Hello.
I installed android head unit bought from AliExpress. I don't know what board it has. It is 8+128GB, Android 10 OS. It is for Audi A6 2008, manual transmission. I also bought and installed camera.
Camera works fine if car engine is off. When it is on, camera screen is black. So I added relay to switch from reverse to cigarette lighter power to suply camera, and then my camera turns on when in reverse, but won't turn off. I must turn off car and remove key from ignition to turn off camera. I also tried some camera filter they gave me, instead of relay, but same result as with relay.
There is on the back of unit violet "360 DET" wire and red "Reverse camera power" wire. They told me to connect those two wires with green camera cable wire (which is in short circuit with cable other ends red power wire and goes to camera. Once activated by reverse, camera keeps 12v in its red wire even if it is removed from suply. Then only key removal will turn it off with whole system of course. I will put picture of wiring, if anybody can tell me is this correct way of wiring and what can be the problem. Car is 2008 A6, manual transmission, MMI 2G HIGH. There are pictures of unit and how camera is wired to unit. Also how relay is wired. Please help
JovanSRB said:
Hello.
I installed android head unit bought from AliExpress. I don't know what board it has. It is 8+128GB, Android 10 OS. It is for Audi A6 2008, manual transmission. I also bought and installed camera.
Camera works fine if car engine is off. When it is on, camera screen is black. So I added relay to switch from reverse to cigarette lighter power to suply camera, and then my camera turns on when in reverse, but won't turn off. I must turn off car and remove key from ignition to turn off camera. I also tried some camera filter they gave me, instead of relay, but same result as with relay.
There is on the back of unit violet "360 DET" wire and red "Reverse camera power" wire. They told me to connect those two wires with green camera cable wire (which is in short circuit with cable other ends red power wire and goes to camera. Once activated by reverse, camera keeps 12v in its red wire even if it is removed from suply. Then only key removal will turn it off with whole system of course. I will put picture of wiring, if anybody can tell me is this correct way of wiring and what can be the problem. Car is 2008 A6, manual transmission, MMI 2G HIGH. There are pictures of unit and how camera is wired to unit. Also how relay is wired. Please help
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Update: 360 DET wire must be connected to camera cable power wire. That wire goes to reverse light.
If there is screen flickering when engine is on, then relay have to be installed.
Relay is switched by reverse light power, connected to cigarette lighter suply then stable permanent power from cigarette ligher will suply camera.. pictures in first post are accurate, except red wire from unit that is cutted from circuit. It goes nowhere in this case.
Hi There,
I have installed a generic android 10.1 - 2GB (RAM)+32GB (ROM) unit and have an issue with the reverse camera.
When in reverse, screen blanks out but no image.
I have had the unit and the camera replaced and have had 2 experienced installers look at the problem but no fix.
Does anyone have any suggestions to fix the problem?
Also, do you think a 12V DC Kit Power Relay Filter Rectifiers Capacitor may help?
Thanks in advance
Bondibiz said:
Hi There,
I have installed a generic android 10.1 - 2GB (RAM)+32GB (ROM) unit and have an issue with the reverse camera.
When in reverse, screen blanks out but no image.
I have had the unit and the camera replaced and have had 2 experienced installers look at the problem but no fix.
Does anyone have any suggestions to fix the problem?
Also, do you think a 12V DC Kit Power Relay Filter Rectifiers Capacitor may help?
Thanks in advance
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The radio shows the blank black screen because the radio gets no video signal.
This can be related to 2 different things:
Missing 12V power at the camera.
Measure the cam connection for ground and +12V if your reverse gear is activated.
If there is missing something, you need to follow the cable and check the connections.
The fact that the black screen is shown, tells us that the radio itself is connected correctly.
Wrong CAM-In port used.
Check if you really used the CAM-In and not the Video-In connector
The capacitor is normally not helpful if you don´t get a video signal.
You don´t tell us in your posting how the power is provided to the cam. So that may help for further investigation.
rigattoni said:
The radio shows the blank black screen because the radio gets no video signal.
This can be related to 2 different things:
Missing 12V power at the camera.
Measure the cam connection for ground and +12V if your reverse gear is activated.
If there is missing something, you need to follow the cable and check the connections.
The fact that the black screen is shown, tells us that the radio itself is connected correctly.
Wrong CAM-In port used.
Check if you really used the CAM-In and not the Video-In connector
The capacitor is normally not helpful if you don´t get a video signal.
You don´t tell us in your posting how the power is provided to the cam. So that may help for further investigation.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The power to the cam is provided by connecting the positives from the camera to the reverse light positive input and the negative earthed. This is then connected to the android head unit, video input and the reverse cable.
Bondibiz said:
The power to the cam is provided by connecting the positives from the camera to the reverse light positive input and the negative earthed. This is then connected to the android head unit, video input and the reverse cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you check that the Cam is connected to the CAM-IN connector at the unit?
...and did you measure the voltage delivered to the cam?
Which car are you driving? Does it have LED back lights?
Does the cam deliver a picture if you connect it directly to +12V instead of using the back light?
Without measuring, there is no need to answer from your side. This is mandatory to step forward.
i have the same issue. reverse camera show during installation but after few hours no image. only can see the lines. i connect the rca to my tv.it show reverse image .
I already wrote it in another topic. You need to use search instead of a new topic.. I don't know which car and which head unit. I had a VW Golf 6 powered by the reversing light and there was interference, stripes across the image. There are suppressors for powering from the reversing light, also on AliExpress. But the better option is mine. I found a pin on my main unit directly for powering the backup camera, which has 12v when I put it in reverse. It works perfectly, without interference or problems. I have a Can-Bus system. I'll put the pin-out of my unit here. Maybe it will help you.
And what about the black image after putting it in reverse, either there is no 12v power supply for the camera, or the input for the camera is incorrect.. use the cinch Reverse Cam input, do not plug into the cinch Cam-in this it is used for the front camera. Another option is to set the main unit for the backup camera, maybe the system is NTSC and it is set to PAL, or vice versa, depending on where you come from. Another option is to set the input of the backup camera type AHD, and the camera is normal, SD, I I tried the AHD type (better quality) and the picture was black. Inform us.
I got some issued on my android car head unit. No video input, on reserse.
Usinf canbus cable pink for electricity.
Check the video here :
Hello friends,
Today I received the multimedia system that I ordered from AliExpress and of course the frame did not arrive compatible with the car (as I was promised),
But I improvised and managed to overcome it,
The problem is that I connect all the cables properly and turn on the car but the unit just doesnt turn on,
Maybe I'm missing something and I don't know? I even tried replacing the fuse, but nothing.
In the video you can see everything, although in the video I only connect the power cable, but before that I tried with everything...
the system should turn on even when nothing is connected except the power cable, right?
I would appreciate your help because I am at a loss and the seller is not really helpful..
seat ibiza 2016
yanivos89 said:
Hello friends,
Today I received the multimedia system that I ordered from AliExpress and of course the frame did not arrive compatible with the car (as I was promised),
But I improvised and managed to overcome it,
The problem is that I connect all the cables properly and turn on the car but the unit just doesnt turn on,
Maybe I'm missing something and I don't know? I even tried replacing the fuse, but nothing.
In the video you can see everything, although in the video I only connect the power cable, but before that I tried with everything...
the system should turn on even when nothing is connected except the power cable, right?
I would appreciate your help because I am at a loss and the seller is not really helpful..
seat ibiza 2016
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should read the installation guide.
There are 2 power lines necessary to get it booting, and a ground to the car body.
There is a red one (mostly) which has BAT power at all time, and most probably a yellow one marked with ACC. This line switches the radio on when you turn the ignition key to on, so this line needs 12V from the ignition.
rigattoni said:
You should read the installation guide.
There are 2 power lines necessary to get it booting, and a ground to the car body.
There is a red one (mostly) which has BAT power at all time, and most probably a yellow one marked with ACC. This line switches the radio on when you turn the ignition key to on, so this line needs 12V from the ignition.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
this are the cables that i have
yanivos89 said:
this are the cables that i have
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Use a voltmeter or test light and measure the lines Battery, ACC and Ground.
Battery should have constant power and ACC should be powered if the ignition is on.
What is about the missing connection here?
yanivos89
To add the may be missing information:
You don´t feed the unit with any power. There is a connector with yellow and red line from both connectors, but you need to connect the one from the Quadlock to the head unit cable tree with the same colors. In the second picture I think there is an open connector for that.
thanks, you mean these orange and red wires? i connected them but still nothing
yanivos89 said:
thanks, you mean these orange and red wires? i connected them but still nothing
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think that this connector does not fit your car
Connectors in green area are used for speakers. And metal connectors in plug (from vehicle) are present.
Connectors in red area are used to supply power [battery+, ground, ACC], buttons illumination etc. and metal connectors are NOT present.
Look at blue arrows for reference
What is cars brand, model and production year?
wotii098 said:
I think that this connector does not fit your car
View attachment 5799475
Connectors in green area are used for speakers. And metal connectors in plug (from vehicle) are present.
Connectors in red area are used to supply power [battery+, ground, ACC], buttons illumination etc. and metal connectors are NOT present.
Look at blue arrows for reference
What is cars brand, model and production year?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
seat ibiza 2016
wotii098 said:
I think that this connector does not fit your car
View attachment 5799475
Connectors in green area are used for speakers. And metal connectors in plug (from vehicle) are present.
Connectors in red area are used to supply power [battery+, ground, ACC], buttons illumination etc. and metal connectors are NOT present.
Look at blue arrows for reference
What is cars brand, model and production year?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you have the same unit and cable tree?
I can´t see the counterpart of the Quadlock connector coming from the unit.
To get a proper answer, we should see both connectors from the front and the back.
rigattoni said:
Do you have the same unit and cable tree?
I can´t see the counterpart of the Quadlock connector coming from the unit.
To get a proper answer, we should see both connectors from the front and the back.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, those connectors are taken from yanivos89 photos - left is harness from his SEAT, right is from his android head unit.
There is no way to connect 52pin quadlock to 40 pin quadlock, even if plug physically it can be connected, the pins inside simply dont match.
yanivos89 said:
seat ibiza 2016
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Best you can do is contact seller and ask for new harness. You need 52 quadlock connector, similiar to rest of modern VW group cars
Volkswagen (2015-2020) WG8 Sensor-Screen Bluetooth Head Unit pinout diagram @ pinoutguide.com
Additionaly you need to know that in your case everything is highly dependable on CANBUS decoder - harness from your car doesn't provide ACC signal to wake radio or signal for buttons illumination. It is solved via CAN signals.
Maybe CANBUS decoder also has to be replaced if wrong harness was sent.
Ahhh... didn´t see that.
You are right. In this case he has a wrong cable tree from Ali.
thanks very much to you both! i will check this,
what about the canbus? also need to replace or it fit?
yanivos89 said:
thanks very much to you both! i will check this,
what about the canbus? also need to replace or it fit?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
...but you told us, that you was aware that the unit does not fit your car, right?
Wasn´t that good your decision to buy a not matching unit, right? Makes it complicated to reconfigure that stuff.
In this case: I think you will have to pay for a harness and may be also for a new CAN box. Try to buy one from the seller, or:
You also can buy a harness for VW/Skoda/Seat and crimp it to the current harness.
In this case you need to follow the connection graph on the unit and compare this with a picture of the OEM connector. Should be found on Google. May be the CAN connector works, may be not. There are a lot of CAN boxes available for your car in combination with Chinese aftermarket radios.
Good luck!
I think your car is MQB platform and the radio is for PQ platform. 52pin qadlock to 40pin. Maybe a reduction will help you
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mN4W48q
the harness of the 52 pins did solve my problem, thanks everyone for the help!