[PSA] Viper4Android Support Works and is Glorious - Fire TV General

So, I wanted to use my headphones with my Fire TV. In order to do so I purchased an HDMI audio splitter, a device that essentially takes an HDMI signal and converts the audio to analog RCA. I then used an adapter to plug in my headphones. However there was a small issue, without a dedicated amp I have no volume control other than the horrible amplification in Kodi.
My solution was to install Viper4Android. Extra loud mode amplifies the line level signal to bring it to a comfortable listening level along with granular EQ control to help bring up the bass.
Note that your Fire TV must be rooted and busy box must be installed, but the 4.0+ version of V4A works on the Fire TV and oh is it glorious. Note, you will need a mouse in order to configure everything.

thx, does V4A also have an DRC (Dynamic Range Compression = Night mode feature?)
Does it work with V4A on FireTV Stick?
thx

fire tv
? please fire tv stick 2

Related

[Q]-Adjusting sound of HDMI out

Hi folks. For the Iconia 500, is there a way to adjust the volumes of HDMI audio out? When I plug it into my TV, it plays as max volume or it can be muted. I noticed there is no in between. I'd like to adjust the volume out on the tablet itself rather than the TV. Is this possible? The volume I played with, including in-app volumes, seemed to do nothing.
As far as I know, HDMI send digital audio to your TV. It is like sending audio data to your TV instead of signal for analog. When you TV receive the data, it will decode it to signal to the speaker. It is your TV's task to decide the volume to speaker when it send signal to it.
So same to the blu-ray player and set-top-box using HDMI, you only can control volume on your TV.
Please correct me if I'm wrong.
That's what I was afraid of. Oh well. There's non lazy ways of living with it but I was curious if anything could control the actual output itself from the Iconia prior to the TV coming into play.

roku-like audiocast to phone / headphones

Hey all.
I found a rather dirty hack that seems to work better than Bluetooth audio for listening to private audio from the firetv.
Installing bubbleupnp works good on my phone for audio casting to xbmc, so I tried the same on the firetv in reverse.
I had the xposed installer already on the firetv for llama support, so all I needed was to install the bubbleupnp app and bubbleupnp module in xposed.
Experimenting, I played from xbmc to my bubbleupnp app on my phone and it worked. There was a little delay, but it was more constant than the delay that BT headphones have with the firetv. Adjusting the delay on the xbmc app, and I had my private audio. I hadn't tried with any of the other video apps on the firetv, but I'm thinking the delay will be there. At least I can use it for xbmc.
Just wanted to put that out there. Hopefully a better option for sending and listening to audio will come out soon.
t3ch42 said:
Hey all.
I found a rather dirty hack that seems to work better than Bluetooth audio for listening to private audio from the firetv.
Installing bubbleupnp works good on my phone for audio casting to xbmc, so I tried the same on the firetv in reverse.
I had the xposed installer already on the firetv for llama support, so all I needed was to install the bubbleupnp app and bubbleupnp module in xposed.
Experimenting, I played from xbmc to my bubbleupnp app on my phone and it worked. There was a little delay, but it was more constant than the delay that BT headphones have with the firetv. Adjusting the delay on the xbmc app, and I had my private audio. I hadn't tried with any of the other video apps on the firetv, but I'm thinking the delay will be there. At least I can use it for xbmc.
Just wanted to put that out there. Hopefully a better option for sending and listening to audio will come out soon.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
so with what you did is, you basically had the audio stream of a video playing on your phone? I have already installed bubbleupnp on both my note 3 and the fire tv (xposed module on both devices too)but im clueless as to how to make this work. all i have managed is to cast audio(but only music and not video) from my phone to the fire tv, or initiate a video from the fire tv to start playing on my phone, making the fire tv a large remote and my phone the video player lol.
thing is I've never used bubbleupnp before so this whole casting thing is new to me. Maybe you are able to give more details as to what you did? what you set the renderer and library to on both your phone and the tv? Would gladly appreciate it as this is the last piece of the puzzle for me as to configuring the fire tv. would really like xbmc to play the video while my phone plays the audio!! thx!!
Exactly as you said it.
Set bubbleupnp to audiocast to my phone.
Listen on my phone.
Get frustrated because bubbleupnp won't ever change their design to be able to sync. Apparently, the delay is inevitable. Not sure why, as allshare seems to have it figured out.
I'm going to give up on this, as I've had no luck from this method. Will wait to see if a BT ad2p(?) Receiver Profile can be used with phones.
t3ch42 said:
Exactly as you said it.
Set bubbleupnp to audiocast to my phone.
Listen on my phone.
Get frustrated because bubbleupnp won't ever change their design to be able to sync. Apparently, the delay is inevitable. Not sure why, as allshare seems to have it figured out.
I'm going to give up on this, as I've had no luck from this method. Will wait to see if a BT ad2p(?) Receiver Profile can be used with phones.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You know what im doing now? I play the movie using xbmc, but also start the movie playback on my phone using mx player.But mx player has the capability to only play the audio with the screen off, so thats what im doing now. Its easy enough to get the audio synced, and the batt drain isnt too bad, 16% for 130 minutes movie (DTS downmixing). a 40 minutes itunes web dl would consume about 4% if its on AC3, but i presume it would be very similar even if it was just AAC.
Until a more seamless method comes out, this is what im gonna be doing, as its easy enough, and no extra purchase required
ars_92 said:
You know what im doing now? I play the movie using xbmc, but also start the movie playback on my phone using mx player.But mx player has the capability to only play the audio with the screen off, so thats what im doing now. Its easy enough to get the audio synced, and the batt drain isnt too bad, 16% for 130 minutes movie (DTS downmixing). a 40 minutes itunes web dl would consume about 4% if its on AC3, but i presume it would be very similar even if it was just AAC.
Until a more seamless method comes out, this is what im gonna be doing, as its easy enough, and no extra purchase required
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lol...
I've played around like that in the past. It does put more load on your network and hard drives though. Tolerable but unfortunate.
I'm giving BT another try. Picked up a car mp3 3.5mm out unit from amazon for $8.50 or so that I'll be able to sync up easily enough. i can plug my own headphones up and plug it into the USB chargers at my bed. I'll see how that works. Hopefully this will be an option.
How nice would it have been if they just gave the headphone out thru remote capability like the roku 3....sigh
Do update on how well your new plan goes. Thanks!
Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
Any update or progress on development of using bluetooth headphones without sync issues?
When you guys described the worsening audio offset which cannot be corrected because it keeps getting worse over time, how long does it take to see it noticeably worsened?
The reason i am asking is I finally was able to install Settings.apk and paired my bluetooth headphones (Noontec Zoro wireless BT headphones).
When I played a movie in XBMC, I didn't think the audio offset was that bad. Better yet, I didn't notice that it worsened over time. I watched it for over 20 minutes and didn't notice any change. I did a manual offset of .4 sec to compensate and it seemed fine after 20 minutes or so. Will I notice it after more time?
The only thing on my config that might be different than others is that in XBMC 13.1 Gotham stable release, is that I have Hardware acceleration enabled but I unchecked both Mediacodec and libstagefright (it is the only way that I can watch xvid without stutter and doesn't seem to affect mp4 h264 movies). Maybe someone else can try this?
Also, movies I played on Plex shows the same...small lag but somewhat tolerable and it didn't seem to get worse over time, but I only did this for about 5 minutes.
superflysocal said:
Any update or progress on development of using bluetooth headphones without sync issues?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have had pretty good luck with xbmc 13.2 beta rc1.
Am using this BT adapter but only have a few issues now. This syncs up to the fire TV and the audio stays in sync with xbmc.
As I stated in my review, the channels are reversed. Not a real big deal as I can switch my headphones manually to the other ear. After checking my son's BT headphones too, I'm beginning to think all the Chinese imports have their audio connections backwards.
As I watch the show tonight, I can say that the BT alternative is working pretty good. I've had it set forward about 0.2sec ahead and it was quite tolerable. Seems to be getting better. Maybe next update will fix it.
Anybody else had any better luck?
t3ch42 said:
Have had pretty good luck with xbmc 13.2 beta rc1.
Am using this BT adapter but only have a few issues now. This syncs up to the fire TV and the audio stays in sync with xbmc.
As I stated in my review, the channels are reversed. Not a real big deal as I can switch my headphones manually to the other ear. After checking my son's BT headphones too, I'm beginning to think all the Chinese imports have their audio connections backwards.
As I watch the show tonight, I can say that the BT alternative is working pretty good. I've had it set forward about 0.2sec ahead and it was quite tolerable. Seems to be getting better. Maybe next update will fix it.
Anybody else had any better luck?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So where do you plug this into? The USB port of the AFTV? how do you pair it?
superflysocal said:
So where do you plug this into? The USB port of the AFTV? how do you pair it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its a simple little BT receiver that allows a 1/8” headphone jack or jumper to plug into your car aux. It has a battery which lasts three or so hours with headphones plugged in.
To sync, turn on the switch and search with your phone, firetv or whatever you have with BT audio. It automatically connects. Simple. Cheap.
I actually use a pair cheapo 2.4ghz headphones I got as a gift. None audio sync issues I had using a bluetooth transmitter. I just plug it into either the headphone port on the bedroom tv or on the av receiver when I watch in the living room when I can't sleep.
these look nice
The JBL WR2.4 looks nice for under $50 at Amazon
goodhur said:
I actually use a pair cheapo 2.4ghz headphones I got as a gift. None audio sync issues I had using a bluetooth transmitter. I just plug it into either the headphone port on the bedroom tv or on the av receiver when I watch in the living room when I can't sleep.
these look nice
The JBL WR2.4 looks nice for under $50 at Amazon
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Most tv now a day doesn't have headphone jack.
Some of us don't have receiver in bedroom tv
superflysocal said:
Most tv now a day doesn't have headphone jack.
Some of us don't have receiver in bedroom tv
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My bedroom TV has a headphone port the side and no av receiver. That tv is technically a computer monitor with hdmi and a tuner. So that may explain why it still has a headphone port. However, many larger TV's still have an audio out (line level, red and white RCA) that can be used with wireless headphones. There are also toslink to analog convertors or HDMI audio extractors that you can get for about $25. You could use one to achieve line level audio.
I have been researching TV's since the living room tv is old. My living room TV is ridiculous it is HD but it is a 50" plasma from 2004 and it was built before ASTC HD tuners were put in TV sets. The last owners left it because it was a pita to move, I can't imagine how much it would have cost in 2004.
The headphone I mentioned appears not to be a good choice in the line level audio output scenario.
t3ch42 said:
Its a simple little BT receiver that allows a 1/8” headphone jack or jumper to plug into your car aux. It has a battery which lasts three or so hours with headphones plugged in.
To sync, turn on the switch and search with your phone, firetv or whatever you have with BT audio. It automatically connects. Simple. Cheap.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Then I am not sure how this approach would be different than using bluetooth headphones other than you getting lucky with this particular unit compared to others. It is bascially a bluetooth headphone without the headphones.
It's great that it works for you though.
superflysocal said:
Then I am not sure how this approach would be different than using bluetooth headphones other than you getting lucky with this particular unit compared to others. It is bascially a bluetooth headphone without the headphones.
It's great that it works for you though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're right. They are no different. What I did notice is the audio did not seem too out of sync if at all with the newer version of xbmc.
Of course, it could just be a coincidence with a movie that had it audio set out of sync already...I don't know. I may have been more tolerant of the prep work in order to get it to work, pause the video, adjust delay forward, unpause and verify.
The point for me was that it was easy. The BT receiver could have been a more expensive one or cheaper. I don't think it matters too much right now as the BT audio is just an unintended positive side effect.
Amazon may enable a better fix soon or someone may mod a custom image with support if the bootloader opens. Its possible. Either way, I'm happy with the amazon TV. There a bunch more options and capabilities available on this xbmc box than any of the others I've had.

Optical audio out (spdif/toslink)

(sorry I can't post any links, but you can google the words in bold)
Are there any Android head units that support optical audio out?
I've been researching the last few nights (hours!) for a WIRED way to get a toslink optical cable to a Audison Prima AP8.9 Amp/DSP.
Are there any electrical engineers out there who have thought about bypassing the onboard DAC to get digital output?
Or.... is my only option to provide <96kHz optical audio to get an AptX lossless Bluetooth receiver like the Neet AptX lossless bluetooth receiver. Can anyone share experience on how well the Android units perform constantly connected to a BT receiver for all car audio? Esp. if you have the new Pumpkins with the Parrot BT card, in case that improves things.
Thanks!
I'm looking for the same answer, i've installed the neet receiver, but unfortunate for me, the head unit does not connect. I don't think it can be used as transmitter.
I've found this, but I don't know if it works...
http://www.matrix-digi.com/en/products/158/index.html
You all may be overthinking this. Turns out plenty of modern android devices can use standard USB audio hardware. You just need an OTG cable, and the kind of USB audio output device that doesn't need a specialized driver under Windows or Linux. I've hooked up many different USB audio dongles you my Galaxy S3 and S4. The S4 wouldn't charge while hooked through the particular OTG cable, but the S3 does. As a matter of fact, I've been using it as the media player in my car for years.
Admittedly, I've only used the optical out on some of my devices occasionally, but I imagine it would still work for most.
Update: Not all supposed "OTG" cables work. This is the one I bought in Jan 2014 that works for both audio and charging on my S3 with CyanogenMod 11: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009YPYORM/
Today I received an Android 6.0 Head Unit from A-Sure for an Audi A3. I connected a Terratec Aureon Dual USB DAC. I got sound, but couldn't control the volume. Changing the android system volume had no effect.
I am considering spending a couple of bucks on the app "USB Audio Player PRO" and test it again. If this doesn't work, i will have to return the unit.
Greetings from Germany
So i had to return the Head Unit. I tried a different one by "Skandinav", with this one there was no sound at all from the USB DAC
retlaps said:
Today I received an Android 6.0 Head Unit from A-Sure for an Audi A3. I connected a Terratec Aureon Dual USB DAC. I got sound, but couldn't control the volume. Changing the android system volume had no effect.
I am considering spending a couple of bucks on the app "USB Audio Player PRO" and test it again. If this doesn't work, i will have to return the unit.
Greetings from Germany
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
You need to connect to DAC with digital volume control like Helix DSP Pro
Greetings from Singapore
daviestar said:
(sorry I can't post any links, but you can google the words in bold)
Are there any Android head units that support optical audio out?
I've been researching the last few nights (hours!) for a WIRED way to get a toslink optical cable to a Audison Prima AP8.9 Amp/DSP.
Are there any electrical engineers out there who have thought about bypassing the onboard DAC to get digital output?
Or.... is my only option to provide <96kHz optical audio to get an AptX lossless Bluetooth receiver like the Neet AptX lossless bluetooth receiver. Can anyone share experience on how well the Android units perform constantly connected to a BT receiver for all car audio? Esp. if you have the new Pumpkins with the Parrot BT card, in case that improves things.
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes, you can connect to the DAC, thereby outputting digital audio from applications and transport flash drive.
this can be done not only with android devices, but also with conventional tape recorder, some installations you can look at my YouTube channel
unfortunately links for new users are forbidden, you can search by my nickname - "jonjonni toslink Евгений Фещенко"
daviestar said:
(sorry I can't post any links, but you can google the words in bold)
Are there any Android head units that support optical audio out?
I've been researching the last few nights (hours!) for a WIRED way to get a toslink optical cable to a Audison Prima AP8.9 Amp/DSP.
Are there any electrical engineers out there who have thought about bypassing the onboard DAC to get digital output?
Or.... is my only option to provide <96kHz optical audio to get an AptX lossless Bluetooth receiver like the Neet AptX lossless bluetooth receiver. Can anyone share experience on how well the Android units perform constantly connected to a BT receiver for all car audio? Esp. if you have the new Pumpkins with the Parrot BT card, in case that improves things.
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, don't fall into this hole. (warning to new users)
I have the Prima dac/amp, and the sound is amazing, and it can be connected to an Android phone via OTG to Toslink adapter, or via Bluetooth adapter with Toslink out, but it has one very nasty issue: when the amp is starting, and there is no Toslink signal, it won't register the connection. So if you later connect your phone, you have to cycle through the input sources Digital->Aux->Master->Digital to again register your connection.
So unless you connect your phone or turn on your BT receiver _before_ you start the car up, you will need to fiddle with cycling the source (while also driving the car). (That is if you also have the optional control unit with a display.)
Why they designed the device this way is just beyond me.
I hope its all right to join an old discussion.
I have a similar problem, I want to connect an android head unit in my car to an external digital amplifier. The amplifier itself have SPDIF input (mosconi GALDEN Pico 12 channels https://mosconi-system.it/product/gladen-pico-812-dsp/) but I can't find an android head unit running Android 10 with SPDIF output for my car. I've found converting card USB->SPIDF (for example: https://www.amazon.com/Douk-Audio-C...1&keywords=usb+to+spdif&qid=1617899902&sr=8-3) but I still missing some points:
-In Android 10, how do I switch all audio outputs to the converting card? Is it a part of the Android or external application?
-What happen when playing multi channel media (such as 5.1)? does each channel transfer on each on?
-Is it possible to use the same method to BT? The Pico have an optional BT card.
Thanks in advance, Haim
haim_gds said:
-In Android 10, how do I switch all audio outputs to the converting card? Is it a part of the Android or external application?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Android usually automatically switches to USB audio when found, but many implementations do not. Sometimes there's a setting in the developer menu for prioritizing USB audio, but sometimes that doesn't do anything.
USB audio of any kind is not supported on my Sony X800D Android TV.
haim_gds said:
-What happen when playing multi channel media (such as 5.1)? does each channel transfer on each on?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Multichannel USB sometimes works, and sometimes doesn't. Certainly it can work, such as on many Android TV implementations like NVIDIA shield.
haim_gds said:
-Is it possible to use the same method to BT? The Pico have an optional BT card.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Multichannel Bluetooth is not a standard, although some implementations like enhanced aptX can support it.
Have you also considered that SPDIF surround is always encoded, and thus is output at a fixed volume? Your head unit would not be able to control the volume; it would have to be done after decoding, like at the power amplifier stage.
MarkerB said:
Android usually automatically switches to USB audio when found, but many implementations do not. Sometimes there's a setting in the developer menu for prioritizing USB audio, but sometimes that doesn't do anything.
USB audio of any kind is not supported on my Sony X800D Android TV.
Multichannel USB sometimes works, and sometimes doesn't. Certainly it can work, such as on many Android TV implementations like NVIDIA shield.
Multichannel Bluetooth is not a standard, although some implementations like enhanced aptX can support it.
Have you also considered that SPDIF surround is always encoded, and thus is output at a fixed volume? Your head unit would not be able to control the volume; it would have to be done after decoding, like at the power amplifier stage.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you know of if it's possible to allow the headunits to play higher than 48khz resolution through the optical or coax outputs ?
dfal47 said:
Do you know of if it's possible to allow the headunits to play higher than 48khz resolution through the optical or coax outputs ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have to ask - what
marchnz said:
Have to ask - what
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The unit forces 24b 48khz audio, coaxial can output 192khz tracks and optical upto 96khz . Higher resolution audio output.
Neutron or UAPP will allow higher resolution, but you'll probably lose Navi directions as those programs bypass the android audio layer and mixer.
Basically you need a high resolution non- Android media player, with a navi input and mixer, that also has an spdif output.
The Alpine UTX-A09 looks like it can do that, assuming it isn't Android based /doesn't force 16/48 output from all sources when the mixer is enabled (in non "Alpine Direct" mode). Looks like the Alpine pxe-x09 has a mixer, so it should also be able to mix in navigation instructions.
Some of the Helix DSPs may mix or prioritize different inputs - the documentation isn't clear.
If you use spdif connection vs optical you run the risk of creating a ground loop unless the source is floating ie running on its battery power.
You can blow out all your high frequency drivers in a second if the ground loop creates feedback oscillations.
A common ground point may or may not prevent it. Using toslink to couple eliminates this potential issue.
For car hookups best practice to use heavy gauge wire for positive* feed, preferably coming directly from the battery for high wattage amps, source auxiliary equipment from the same end point. Do not daisy chain.
Same is true with home hifi, avoid using spdif cables to couple amps, preamps, receivers, cable boxes, etc. Amps, recievers are designed to be floating and not connected to ground. Do mix earth grounded and floating equipment unless connected by toslink only ie a tower PC with a 3 prong plug and a reciever (2 prong plug, floating).
*if you use a chassis grounding point, use only one and do not daisy chain!
dfal47 said:
Do you know of if it's possible to allow the headunits to play higher than 48khz resolution through the optical or coax outputs ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry for the delay.
DTS has had 96kHz/24 bit for many years, and they work through any SPDIF interface... as you wanted. They don't actually change the hardware interface speed, but rather encode the extra data into the sales 48kHz stream.
I've never bothered to encode anything with it, because I'm guessing it actually makes compression worse. You're squeezing much more data through the same early 90s compression algorithm, and DTS is already lossy enough. Factor-in that higher sample rates are not detectable in blind tests, and it just seems like a bad idea.
Hmm... Unless the 96kHz/24 bit extension algorithm is much more efficient at compression, considering it was introduced much later than the base DTS algorithms in 1991, and may have leveraged more recent technologies. In that case, it would definitely be the better choice. Unfortunately, I haven't read anything about this possibility.
Good reading on the 96kHz/24 bit topic:
DTS (company) - Wikipedia
en.m.wikipedia.org
Get the Rundown on the DTS 96/24 Audio Format
DTS 96/24 is part of the DTS family of audio formats but it's rather rare since the advent of Blu-ray Disc.
www.lifewire.com
Bumping an old, but good, thread. I have exactly the same amp (well, the 5.9), and an Android unit with a TOSlink port - but it seems to be turned off as I can’t see any light coming from the TOSlink cable. Any idea how to turn it on?
I have a FiiO as a backup but prefer not to do SPDIF because I need another device for the Audison to take SPDIF input …
MarkerB said:
Sorry for the delay.
DTS has had 96kHz/24 bit for many years, and they work through any SPDIF interface... as you wanted. They don't actually change the hardware interface speed, but rather encode the extra data into the sales 48kHz stream.
I've never bothered to encode anything with it, because I'm guessing it actually makes compression worse. You're squeezing much more data through the same early 90s compression algorithm, and DTS is already lossy enough. Factor-in that higher sample rates are not detectable in blind tests, and it just seems like a bad idea.
Hmm... Unless the 96kHz/24 bit extension algorithm is much more efficient at compression, considering it was introduced much later than the base DTS algorithms in 1991, and may have leveraged more recent technologies. In that case, it would definitely be the better choice. Unfortunately, I haven't read anything about this possibility.
Good reading on the 96kHz/24 bit topic:
DTS (company) - Wikipedia
en.m.wikipedia.org
Get the Rundown on the DTS 96/24 Audio Format
DTS 96/24 is part of the DTS family of audio formats but it's rather rare since the advent of Blu-ray Disc.
www.lifewire.com
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Toslink can support 24 bit/192 khz.
Optical coupling is preferred as it carries no risk of creating ground loops; optical isolation.
A ground loop can smoke (literally) all your tweeters and maybe the power amp in a second.
blackhawk said:
Toslink can support 24 bit/192 khz.
Optical coupling is preferred as it carries no risk of creating ground loops; optical isolation.
A ground loop can smoke (literally) all your tweeters and maybe the power amp in a second.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think you accidentally replied to the wrong post. My topic was about the quality of the DTS 96kHz/24 bit encode, which is completely independent of which of the two physical SPDIF interfaces is used.

Wireless USB headphones only getting single channel audio after 3.0 update?

I have been using a pair of Sony Gold wireless USB headphones on my shield for viewing at night when my family is asleep. Was working great until after the update. When I tried them last night I am only getting audio from the left side. I tried changing the USB audio settings in the menu from 5.1 to stereo to HQ stereo and back, nothing works. This is happening in all apps and in the menu. Tested them w/ my PC and PS4 and work fine there. Any ideas?
i generaly use soundabout when i use usb stuff for sound but it is a new android version so i dont know here sorry.
For me it's the other way around, I was using turtle beach USB DAC for toslink connection to my amplifier, and was only getting stereo sound. Now digital sound, DTS, AC3 is working in kodi and other apps. I have it set to 5.1, and volume control is off. Don't think this helps you in any way, but they did change things related to USB audio, thats for sure.
Did you reboot the shield when changing the sound settings? You must reboot for the changes to take effect.

Help with Joying 5.1.1 headunit and Sabre 9018 USB Dac support

Hi All,
I need some help getting my Sabre 9018 USB DAC to work with the Joying Headunit.
I have recently purchased a Joying 7" 5.1.1 headunit. The sound quality of this unit is terrible, and after hearing the 9018 DAC connected to my phone, I simply cannot go back to the Joying sound. I'm quite good at troubleshooting/mods for Android but not an expert at all.
I've managed to get sound out of the DAC when using HibyMusic player installed on the Joying without Volume control. Spotify/Poweramp/android music player simply do not work.
My Samsung s5 using Xstrolite rom played everything flawlessly through the DAC plug and play.
I've reviewed some threads regarding DAC support but nothing really helps with the 5.1.1 units. Hence why I need help from you guys,
Thanks in advance
Daniel
the "workaround" for this is to get an external DSP, and then use the remote control of the DSP to control the volume.
Several of us here use the C-DSP 6x8 and it works well. It also includes SPDIF in, so you can go full digital all the way to the DSP. It is not a cheap solution, but if you can manage to find a good deal on a used one, it will allow you to control volume in the apps that have a dedicated USB driver. For non-critical listening, you can use your normal joying pre-outs, so you effectively get a fully functional system without having to heavily modify the HU system files.
Also there is a cheaper DSP available from minidisp called the 2x4, and you can connect an external potentiometer to control the volume. This would be the cheapest method of doing what I described above, and you still get the huge benefit of able to EQ your system with a real DSP.
Okay, thanks for the feedback. So even using neutron player, you still can't control the volume? I would try this, but Im away for work atm. Thanks again
Inside the app, yes, by attenuating the output. But you still get no sound outside of apps without a USB driver. That's why I like the dsp option. If sq is high priority it's the optimal choice regardless. Especially if you get one with digital in like the cdsp 6x8.
Do you hear FM radio and Bluetooth sound through USB ?

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