I have started to get "Controller Disconnected" and then I have to power-on the gamepad and it will connect again. Since the batteries are brand new I doubt that is the issue. I usually get this while in a game.
I know I have seen other reports of this but couldn't find an XDA thread.
Common issue?
I filed an issue to Asus to see what they have to say about it.
Konstigt said:
I have started to get "Controller Disconnected" and then I have to power-on the gamepad and it will connect again. Since the batteries are brand new I doubt that is the issue. I usually get this while in a game.
I know I have seen other reports of this but couldn't find an XDA thread.
Common issue?
I filed an issue to Asus to see what they have to say about it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The gamepad times out and powers off after a period of inactivity.
bbb0487 said:
The gamepad times out and powers off after a period of inactivity.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This was more like disconnects every few minutes. But we switched the batteries the same say as the OP, haven't seen it since. So the included batteries were not very good, lasted like 5 days.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
Konstigt said:
This was more like disconnects every few minutes. But we switched the batteries the same say as the OP, haven't seen it since. So the included batteries were not very good, lasted like 5 days.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had to switch the batteries after a week or so as-well.
Connection Issue - Dual ASUS Gamepads On ASUS Windows 10 PC
I just bought a new desktop (ASUS M32CD) and installed a GTX 760. Then i bought two ASUS Gamepads (ASUS TV500BG) thinking that i would be able to use my computer to play two player games with my friends. The controllers are bluetooth and the computer is bluetooth 4.0.
When i use one controller that one controller works fine. When i try to connect the second controller , it connects for about 10 seconds then disconnect. So my issue is that only one will stay connected. But both are paired.
ISSUE: Both controllers pair, but only one stays connected. Both stay connected for a moment then one disconnects. Before is disconnects its stops being responsive.
TROUBLESHOOTED: I know ASUS has released drivers for windows 10 for the gamepads. I have installed only the 64-bit drivers and uninstalled and reinstalled a few times now. Batteries are fine, i get the same results when i try to connect the opposite controller, the first one to connect stays connected. The other connects briefly then shuts off.
ATTACHED: device manager screenshot, system info screenshot, bluetooth settings screenshot
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did you managed to resolve it? i've upgraded to win 10 recently and have the same issue
Related
Unfortunately, I didn't read a warning thread about *not* using the Sony Update Service until after I'd started the service for my X1a.
I've been hooked up to the USB with coloured bars for about five minutes, with no progress being noted and nothing changing on the Update Service screen.
Am I in trouble here, or does it just take a while?
12 minutes and no changes.
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George Knighton said:
12 minutes and no changes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I guess this is the absolutely first time you connected the usbcable while the phone is in bootloader?
Did an automatic driver install occur when you connected the cable?
emwdava said:
I guess this is the absolutely first time you connected the usbcable while the phone is in bootloader?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's the first time I've done it with an X1, or any Sony. I've flashed many Synergy and WinMo Motorolas.
Did an automatic driver install occur when you connected the cable?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think it must've used the drivers already installed. I heard the connection and detection routines.
7:29 PM to 8:13 PM...that's a long time.
Antivirus and firewall is turned off.
George Knighton said:
It's the first time I've done it with an X1, or any Sony. I've flashed many Synergy and WinMo Motorolas.
I think it must've used the drivers already installed. I heard the connection and detection routines.
7:29 PM to 8:13 PM...that's a long time.
Antivirus and firewall is turned off.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you didn't see any change at all since you connected the phone I think it's safe to disconnect it and reboot the phone.
This has happened to me, the first time I tried the service.
But If it stopped midway in flashing It's not good..
I'm no pro but as long as the bootloader is intact you should be able to reflash the phone even if the first flash didn't go well and the phone wont boot.
Maybe someone more experienced can shed some light on this...
and while you wait you can search the ROM area for answers.
Xperia ROM Development
Re-started it and everything went well.
Visibly snappier, compared to the way it was behaving before.
Thanks for the commiseration.
George Knighton said:
Re-started it and everything went well.
Visibly snappier, compared to the way it was behaving before.
Thanks for the commiseration.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No problem, I'm just glad I could show some support in this obvious dark hour...
lol, mine is stuck on the forever detecting phone as well. I might just give up, and use my home computer, which is the one I use to flash phones anyway.
my work computer is vista.
Mine is stuck 'identifying' For 15 minutes now... Someone with the same problem?
vista seems to have probs always..... xp works ok ..
I observed the same experience as well. first attempt will always appear hang at the bootloader, w/o any activities (which is a blessing in disguise, imagine stuck halfway into flashing). Disconnecting & connecting again do the trick. I'm on Vista...
I realize that SEUS is "safer" in terms of support, but why don't you just download the image file you need and flash from the memory card?
I have the chance to compare my 10.1v with an Ipad 1 so here is the first picture (both devices with medium brightness).
It'll be a work in progress. Tomorrow I'll have more time and I'll post a full review, with images and videos.
I'll post videos here.
Looking forward to seeing the review. I'm more interested in the 10.1 but the screen quality definitely interests me here.
i guess samsung tab should vs ipad 2
I don't have an Ipad 2, just the first one.
I returned my 10.1v, it became a brick.
myself11 said:
I don't have an Ipad 2, just the first one.
I returned my 10.1v, it became a brick.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What happened ?
As a stated on another thread, I played around for half an hour. Due to a lot of forced closes on browser, decided to turn off the device. It froze on "Do you want to shut down?".
Pressed a couple of times the power button and the first screen "Samsung GALAXY Tab 10.1v" appeared, but it never passed from there.
Tryed power + vol down and entered unlock mode with no problems. Pressed the power button to get out and restart, but same issue ocurred. The only way to turn it off is power + volume up and down for 10 secs.
I think even charging was affected, because when I plugged it, the symbol of a battery appeared, but nothing happened afterward.
myself11 said:
I think even charging was affected, because when I plugged it, the symbol of a battery appeared, but nothing happened afterward.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sounds to me like....
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early adopters penalty!
Are you getting it replaced? I'm sure it was just a dodgy unit. I've not heard of anyone else with that issue - the only issue that I know of is the light-bleed issue for which Vodafone AU have been replacing them.
I know of 2 Tabs here in Portugal whose screen, after 4 days of normal use, started malfunctioning. An error like mine, I never heard of it, not even in another tabs' fora.
I got a refund. Imagine if it happened again... The store might say I've been messing with something or trying to install custom Rom (there isn't any, I know eheh). My unit had bleeding too, I think they all have.
Just a warning to everyone who values their PS/2 keyboard / mouse. I ordered a PS/2 to USB connector and tried to connect the keyboard to the phone. The result was a fried keyboard that flashed its Caps / Scroll / Num Lock lights at a constant rate, and after a reboot of the computer, 2 of the 3 lights were on at about 10% light. This happened to me with a generic HP keyboard. Obviously the keyboard never worked again.
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Disassembling the keyboard I could make out a bit of burnt electronics smell.
Yay, Samsung!
Great stuff. 1st device to be killed by being plugged into an S2? I've attached all sorts of random crap to mine via OTG and not managed to fry anything
YOU can use this application wifikeyboard it work very nice without otg
Luckily it was only a generic HP keyboard, although it was the most comfortable keyboard I've ever had.
I wish I had known about that app before I plugged it in.
u need just wifi in your pc and router of course or use : connectify software to turn your pc as router than install wifi keyboard from market
and try it and you don t need to use otg
The Lesson here is...
USB OTG is meant for real USB devices only, not something that requires an Adapter to convert it to USB
eladnava said:
Just a warning to everyone who values their PS/2 keyboard / mouse. I ordered a PS/2 to USB connector and tried to connect the keyboard to the phone. The result was a fried keyboard that flashed its Caps / Scroll / Num Lock lights at a constant rate, and after a reboot of the computer, 2 of the 3 lights were on at about 10% light. This happened to me with a generic HP keyboard. Obviously the keyboard never worked again.
Disassembling the keyboard I could make out a bit of burnt electronics smell.
Yay, Samsung!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
but Thanks for being our Guinea pig, now people will know what to expect
Yeah, I guess I trusted my SGSII too much and thought it was capable of handling any USB device.
eladnava said:
Yeah, I guess I trusted my SGSII too much and thought it was capable of handling any USB device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But it wasn't a USB device though.
Yeah, but I just thought, if it connects then it should work. I don't see why it would have burned it though, if the computer can work fine with it.
Ive had the 0% battery issue for the past couple of days, so I started reading multiple threads about the battery not charging issue when I came across @winter128 stating he took the back cover off and noticed the batery cable wasnt even plugged in. I did the same and noticed the exact same thing. Evidently the battery cable does not have any locking mechanism, so it works itself out. While I was pushing the battery cable into the slot, I accidently broke one of the (2) gold tabs that are the WiFi. I put the cover back on, powered up the N7, and now my battery says 100%. WiFi seems to be working just fine also.
Any ideas what this additional tab is for?
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STEP 5 is where it says these tabs are for WiFi
http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Nexus-7-Teardown/9623/1
arm chairing thus one
if it's for wifi it might be for an external antenna hookup
have you tried to see if nfc is working?
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
mine broke too
the only difference I took out the other side of the wifi contact. My N7 (8gb) is having the "I don't wanna charge if i'm at 4% or less" issue so I crack it open and do a 'hard' power cycle the battery. IDK if it will have issues yet, it's still charging. If it does I'll sell it and get the 16 or 32.
umm.. antennas work in loops. the two contacts are probably the loop around the back cover.
update #1
I RMA'ed it back to Asus. Wifi sig dropped. I need it to work 90 ft from AP (no solid walls) for work, it didn't. At home it'd work only in the room the AP was in. I'll post the results from Asus repair if they deem I need to pay and how much. Just so ppl know what to look forward too. I informed them I had a "spongy" screen too. So, IDK if that will effect my repair bill.
DK
I have just opened up my nexus 7, I got one for Christmas but noticed the wifi signal being very weak. Tried everything on my router but no luck, so brought a plastic pry tool and opened it up tonight and I notice where the two wifi antennas should be both are missing. There was a s/n sticker just above the where the antenna should be and stuck to the sticker is what I presume is one of the antennas so will be arranging a warranty repair tomorrow
Hey!
I had a PiPo M9 (WiFi) now for about 2-3 weeks and everything worked perfectly.
No problems with rooting and installing ROMS ( i fixed that 2-3 days after i bought it)
I was playing some angry birds yesterday, and all of sudden i had VERY low battery, i put it on charge even if i recently took it from it.
Then i noticed that the DC-connection in my tablet is "loose" , i needed to have the cable in a specific position for make it charge.
Battery was fully charged but it said i had about 16 minutes left, and in 1 minute it dropped to 43% and only had 2 minutes of the battery left...
I tried to calibrate the battery after it was fully charged (i let it charge for almost 10 hours) but there was no difference...
Anyways... i played some games later on and forgot about the position of the cable so the tablet died...It had a bootloop about 6 times and i was trying to put the cable correct for make it charge but i failed and the tablet died.
Now it doesnt react at all, and unfortunally i don't know what the EXACTLY position is for the cable so i have been trying around but without success...
When i am connecting the USB to the computer it doens't react either, and i tried to push in RESET while holding the other buttoms as well, without success...
I Don't know what to do , and i don't know what is wrong?
I opened up my tablet carefully to see if i could see the problem but it is hard to do anything without knowledge about it....
I know that it has something to do with the DC-connection but i can also imagine that it has something to do with the batteries..
If i need to change the batteries , what should i buy? And how should i do? I need a guide, walkthrough ,... i have been googling around , also on youtube, without any luck...
Anyone out there who can help me?
I am kinda desperate.. :/
I solded and fixed the DC-contact, it was loose, but there is a component missing and i am unsure what component it is, so i have a picture and hope someone can help me out....
I'm a little unsure of what component that is missing, but it is backside off the mainboard, just below the dc connection.
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Send email to support
Sent from my GT-I9082 using xda app-developers app
i did, and they had no idea about the parts so they wanted me to send it to them in China
( i live in Sweden)
but i am going to do that, since i cannot do more and i don't want to see it laying there and get dusty....