This is the best looking N4 case I've come across so far but I'm hearing of complaints of the power and volume buttons being too stiff. Could it just need some time to be broken in?
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Deal breaker. And it's huge as well. Going to return mine
Do you have another case in mind?
I'm still waiting for the s view cover to be back in Stock so I can use the 50% off coupon from Samsung. I also have the caseology bumper frame case. Pretty good
I just put some tape on the inside of the metal bumper where the felt behind the buttons is. gave it a little more thickness and now it is a little bit better, but still a bit stiff. The reason for the stiffness I think is because the rubber case it self, does not have cutouts for the buttons, so you are pressing through the rubber case in order to press the actual hardware buttons.
Actually I just checked it.....I left one piece of tape on the Inside of the bumper, on top of the felt, and put 3 pieces of tap on the inside of the rubber case where the markings of the buttons are.
Now it is super good. I cannot get the "click" for the volume buttons, but I do have a nice "click" for the power button. Also, very responsive compared to the way it was before.
Cant go wrong with quick and cheap mod such as tape lol especially when it makes a heck of a difference as in this case
Related
Almost instantly after unboxing my new white MT3G, I noticed the battery door and other parts of the housing squeaking and making irritating noises. This may not bother some people, but I had to pay full price for my device, so I'd like it to not feel like a cheap plastic toy.
At any rate, I have had similar issues with many other HTC devices, most which were fixed by adding cloth or masking tape to the squeaking surfaces, and voila!
But, its not working on the MT3G... even plain masking tape seems to be too thick, as the battery door rises up and leaves a noticeable gap between it and the rest of the chassis - if I apply tape to it.
I haven't experimented a lot, but I'm getting frustrated and was looking to see if anyone else may have some insight!
Thanks in advance!
An hour of experimentation later, I think I may have a solution for those of you with MT3G's/Magics that are sick of the squeaky toy feeling. Once I perfect my cutouts, I'm going to measure, image and PDF a stencil for you guys to cut out your own MT3G anti squeak mats. The final should be a one piece design, to avoid it from wearing out and getting crappy. This method is low-profile enough to not make the battery cover stand off and gap, but provides enough 'insulation' to keep it from squeaking. Note that the battery has two layers of tape on it, to keep it level with the rest of the back of the device.
Forgive the ugliness, this is a first run... I just wanted to share with the community, as I was excited as hell when I popped on the battery cover and said "OH SHI-- NO SQUEAKS?!"
pictures (the tape is marked with blue sharpie to give contrast - originally white waterproof adhesive medical tape):
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I just got a Titan off of ebay which they say has a slightly loose keyboard. Any ideas or tips on fixing this. I do not know if this is a common issue with the Titan and I have not received the phone yet.
Physically the Titan is very similar to the TyTn. The TyTn was renowned for the keyboard becoming loose. It can be fixed quite easily by slightly increasing the indents on the two keyboard runners. However, you do have to do quite a major disassembly of the phone.
Here are a couple of threads that talked about the issue on the TyTn:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=298784
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=286643
PM me if the threads do not make sense. Basically you slightly increase the indents by tapping on them with a flat blade screwdriver and a light weight hammer.
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See that little indent near the end? The slider runs over that to lock shut or open. There is an indent at either end of the runner and there are 2 runners = 4 indents (two for the lock open position and two for the lock closed position of the keyboard)
DON'T over do it or the runners will click so firmly into place you may find the keyboard very stiff to click open and closed!!!. Test them as you tap. (assuming you go ahead)
Mike
all I had to do was open up the titan and tighten the four screws that hold the sliders on.
typhoonk said:
all I had to do was open up the titan and tighten the four screws that hold the sliders on.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are correct of course. My solution above is based on the assumption that the sliders are loose even with the screws tightened.
So of course, if you are doing it yourself, check the screws are tight as your first plan of attack.
Mike
Hello Guys,
My two weeks old TF got some build issues as most of the TFs which not really bothers me.
One thing bothers me little more, There Slight spacing between Glass and the metal boarder..Anyone else? On the HDMI port side. The spacing is not too big but I can see for example the silver metal part of the HDMI port if I look carefully.
Anyone else got such problem? Should I send it to warranty fix? Or I should just ignore it? If it got no technical bad aspects on my device's life I dont care keep it as is... And if one day I have some major issue which prevents from me to use it I can ask them fix this gap by the same chance...
Whats your thoughts?
Thanks!
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I don't have any gaps, but i do have lines of white glue in the join at the bottom.
i have the gap by the bottom port as well. Same as the guy who took the pic
Sure, I've got a similar gap to that on the right side of the screen... it's not like it's a huge issue though :\ it still runs perfectly.
Mine too
Mine had a gap around most of the LCD. On the volume button side I could see the inner workings of the power button and volume button through the gap. When I sent it in due to a power button issue they replaced the LCD due to a bad pixel. No gap when it came back.
I emailed asus in israel this picture asked them if its ok and can danger the device due to exra needless holes \ gaps.
Besides its looks bit weird i dont mind it works cool!
My TF101's power and volume buttons were getting so difficult to press that I almost had to squeeze both sides of the TF just to get the buttons to make contact with the switches. It wasn't always this way, it just got worse over a period of time. I took mine apart and discovered that the buttons sat pretty much flush with the bezel thus preventing the movement required to hit the respective buttons. The fix described below will not help you if the switches on the PCB need to be replaced.
First lets get the usual disclaimers out of the way.
WARNING: THE STEPS OUTLINED IN THIS GUIDE INVOLVE OPENING UP THE CASE OF THE TRANSFORMER AND WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY. EXTREME CARE MUST BE TAKEN DURING THIS PROCESS AS ANY MISTAKE, EVEN SMALL, COULD CAUSE PERMANENT AND IRREVERSIBLE DAMAGE TO YOUR TRANSFORMER. I ASSUME NO RESPONSIBILITY IF YOU ATTEMPT THIS FIX AND END UP DAMAGING YOUR TABLET IN ANY WAY SHAPE OR FORM.
I disassembled my tablet using the guide found here (All credit is due to original author.)
Once it's taken apart I placed a piece of electrical tape over the inside of the buttons pictured here
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Push the buttons outward when placing the tape on the inside of the bezel this should prevent the buttons from sitting flush with the bezel and make the buttons easy to use again. Once that's done, reverse the dis-assembly process insuring that no tape can be seen from the outside of the casing. I apologize for not taking pictures of the process, but if anyone needs me to clarify anything, just let me know. Hopefully this saves some of you from the headache that is dealing with Asus support.
Okay, so since I love this phone and hate taking it apart to replace the case (done once already) I decided to hack the case together.
So where the keyboard slides on the back, it apparently puts some pressure on the outside case when you snap it shut (or maybe I snap it shut too hard?). Over time, the case eventually cracks and breaks completely. I used some terrible epoxy used on metals before and the fix only lasted two months. This time I used some epoxy rated for plastics and decided to fix it again. Protip: Do it right the first time as epoxy is a pain to sand off.
Also, I'm sick of the haters going "Mike, why don't you just buy a new phone??". I'm running the latest Android and it runs well. Why would I get a new phone? This one has a keyboard. New phones don't.
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Almost forgot to post a picture of the back. Where the keyboard ends on the track is where it broke. Once it broke on one side, the other side followed fairly quickly. The first time I used this gray, JB weld crap that honestly wasn't meant for plastics. This time I used a clear/amber Loctite Plastic Bonder Epoxy that came in a syringe (two stage epoxy). Works like a charm and spreads almost the consistency of elmer's glue, so a very easy spread. Since I had nothing to put it on with, I used a very small, flat-blade screwdriver.
It wasn't the prettiest work, but it got the job done.
Since it looked so ugly before, I added some epoxy to build it up, then sanded it down. I think it came out pretty good: