Hi,
This is not first time when i take apart new item with XDA way.
This item you can open very easy.
If you crack or broke something or kill your cat when you take apart your LG G PAD 7.0 LTE, then all responsibility goes only for you! My guide is only for knowledge base.
You lose WARRANTY when you take apart your device!
Tools you need:
1. Plastic Pry Tool
2. Small Phillips Screwdriver
How to Open
With the pry tool get the device out of the chassis. Apply the pry-tool to the gap between frame and screen. Go around all screen.
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When all sides are lifted off the device from the frame, take away the screen part from case. There is NO glue in the case.
Inside
First thing to do is disconnect battery from mainboard!
You can do this gently with plastic pry tool.
Now remove the SIM card, if you not removed it beforehand.
Remove speaker
Remove metallic USB connector holder.
Remove metallic stiker from LCD/Digitizer/USB Flex Cable.
Disconnect LCD/Digitizer/USB Flex Cable from mainboard and remove it
Be aware: speaker and vibration motor connectors are attached with two sided tape to screen plastic bezel.
Remove the battery. It is attached with two sided tape (battery left and right side) to screen plastic bezel.
Now disconnect both cameras (front and back) from mainboard.
Remove all seven black screws and gently pry with plastic pry tool mainboard at plastic screen bezel.
Remove cameras and antennas (on top left and right side).
Remove 3.5 audio socket (its attached with two sided tape to screen plastic bezel)
You are done and must have this:
Tip and Warning! For all these who start change only digitizer.
Investigated how digitizer/front glass is attached to LCD plastic bezel I found that digitizer can be detached from LCD plastic bezel with heatgun and metallic pry tool (or some other thin tool).
You MUST start detaching at top and moving with both sides to bottom.
Be careful, the digitizer cable located on bottom side near connector where goes mainboard flex cable. You can see it on 08.jpg (not best photo, but you can get aim).
I would love a picture if the LCD & digitizer separated. If you have one.
And thanks you have been a big help..
_________________
IT'S OVER 9000!!
esimon311 said:
I would love a picture if the LCD & digitizer separated. If you have one.
And thanks you have been a big help..
_________________
IT'S OVER 9000!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, but I dont have it. I dont had needless to go so deep.
If you separate back cover at main stuff, you can see that digitizer is attached with two sided tape to lcd plastic bezel. Depending how "cheap" and easy all is constructed on this tab there can not be something else. Only thing is digitizer flex cable, which is on bottom side (where the usb connector is.
Has anyone had any success in finding parts for this? The charging port looks like it'd be easily replaceable but I can't find a supplier for it on the net so far.
---------- Post added at 04:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:53 PM ----------
Never mind, I just found one on alibaba. It'll be coming from china but that's better than nothing.
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/pro...rging-Port-Flex-Cable/219936_32270499836.html
petra2201 said:
Has anyone had any success in finding parts for this? The charging port looks like it'd be easily replaceable but I can't find a supplier for it on the net so far.
---------- Post added at 04:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:53 PM ----------
Never mind, I just found one on alibaba. It'll be coming from china but that's better than nothing.
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/pro...rging-Port-Flex-Cable/219936_32270499836.html
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice. Thanks for posting the link!
Thank you sir, I was able to fix a tablet because of your post
I just took apart my v400 in case you guys were wondering, it is the same as the pics in this guide. I will be making a youtube video on this soon and i will post here
How hard is it to separate the frame from the dig and lcd? I bought the lcd and digi for a friend on ebay without frame but haven't got her actual tablet yet to look at.
Earthbound said:
How hard is it to separate the frame from the dig and lcd? I bought the lcd and digi for a friend on ebay without frame but haven't got her actual tablet yet to look at.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually its not hard, but dont go fast. Take time.
You need heatgun and some pry tool (some old creditcard makes work too). I seen one new technique with steel wire. you can get some idea about all work here. I know its for Galaxy S4 but with tab the work is same.
Hey does anyone know if a logic board from v410 will work on a v400?
I've bricked my v400 and i can find at 25$ a used board of v410
Thanks!
Related
If you have issue with your outer touchscreen and LCD screen, this take apart repair guide will show you how to disassemble your Motorola Xoom quickly and safely.
This guide will help you to install the following Motorola Xoom parts:
Motorola Xoom Touch Screen Digitizer Replacement
Tools Required:
Safe Open Pry Tool
Torx T5 Screwdriver
Torx T7 Screwdriver
Adhesive Strips (for touch screen digitizer)
Motorola Xoom Take apart guide:
Begin by removing the two (2) T5 screws at the bottom of the unit in your data charging sync ports. Remove the plastic cover over the ports.
Slide the bottom portion of the back cover down. The bottom portion of the back cover uses slides with small clips to hold unto on unit. Uses small screwdriver or similar objects to push the clips and completely remove the back cover.
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Figure 1
Next will remove the top portion of the back cover. There two (2) T5 screws holding this on as well as the small connectors from the power button.
There thirteen (13) T7 screws located in red on Figure 2 and two (2) T5 screws located in yellow in Figure 2holding the battery. Carefully pull out the battery and disconnect the small cable connecting it to the motherboard.
Figure 2
Use your safe open pry tool to carefully remove the two (2) small speakers located in green on Figure 3. Carefully remove the camera it is sitting in small plastic frame that you have to remove first then remove the ribbon cable and pull the camera out, located in yellow.
Disconnect the two connectors at the bottom of the unit and one on the either side at the top, as located in orange on Figure 3.
Figure 3
There are ten (10) screws that hold the motherboard into the unit, two of this screws are gold and have a special bracket they're along the top. Carefully remove the motherboard.
There are seventeen (17) T7 screws holding the screen frame together. Carefully remove the touch panel from the rest of the screen.
Figure 4
If repairing a damaged touch screen digitizer: Heat the outside of the screen to soften the adhesive holding the screen in place. Use a heat gun or hair dryer on a medium setting for around 1 minute, working around the edges in quick movements. Now, use a safe open pry tool to pry in between the touch screen digitizer and frame, being careful of the flex cable.
To repair the LCD screen: remove the thirteen (13) T5 screws holding the LCD into the screen frame, located in Figure 5. Carefully lift the LCD out of the frame.
Figure 5
Now you will be able to replace any parts on your Motorola Xoom. Simply replace the damaged parts with the new ones and reverse the order to put your tablet back together again.
warranty
Im guessing that voids your warranty?
Saving this info for potential future use.
Thanks op.
Sent from my MB855 using Tapatalk
Cubanluke88 said:
Saving this info for potential future use.
Thanks op.
Sent from my MB855 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. Glad you found it useful!
So I have a cracked screen and I purchased a new screen on ebay a few months ago. I took my entire xoom apart and tried to put the new glass on my xoom, but found that the Old cracked glass had a plastic housing attached to it. Looking at your site, it looks like you've got the glass for 80 bucks, does this have the plastic housing attached to it?
Sparticuz said:
So I have a cracked screen and I purchased a new screen on ebay a few months ago. I took my entire xoom apart and tried to put the new glass on my xoom, but found that the Old cracked glass had a plastic housing attached to it. Looking at your site, it looks like you've got the glass for 80 bucks, does this have the plastic housing attached to it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, the glass doesn't come with the plastic housing. You simply attach the glass to the original housing.
Our customer service guys can assist further with the install if required.
Warranty
Samwes said:
Im guessing that voids your warranty?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If the device is already cracked then physical damage already voids most warranties. Insurance on the other hand will cover damage or loss.
Cubanluke88 said:
Saving this info for potential future use.
Thanks op.
Sent from my MB855 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're welcome! Hope it helps.
Xoom MZ604
repairsuniverse said:
You're welcome! Hope it helps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a few questions about the touchscreen replacement. My touchscreen is responsive but some areas are now dead. I tried playing around with the touchscreen controller - PCB - but that did not improve anything.
Now, do I need to remove all the screws for the battery/ camera/ speakers, etc. if I just need to replace the touchscreen?
In other words, is a full dis-assembly really needed?
In other words, can I skip removing the screws in figure 2 and figure 3 and jump directly to figure 4.
Also, I see several videos which indicate that the touchscreen replacement part has to be fixed to the 'mid-frame'; this means I have to use a heatgun. No other options to avoid the heatgun? e.g. buying some other replacement part which comes with the mid-frame?
Does your outer touchscreen have been damaged or cracked? This take apart repair guide will help you to fix your damaged screen or other internal part on your Samsung Google Nexus S.
This guide will help you to install the following Samsung Google Nexus S replacement parts:
Samsung Google Nexus S Screen Assembly Replacement
Other Samsung Google Nexus S Parts
Tools Required:
Safe Open Pry Tool
Small Phillips Screwdriver
Adhesive Strips
Samsung Goggle Nexus S disassembly guide:
The first step will be to remove the back battery cover and the battery.
Using a small Phillips screwdriver, remove the six (6) screws holding the back housing in place, as shown in Figure 1.
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Figure 1
Using a safe open pry tool, pry the back housing away from the rest of the device. It will be clipped into place, so carefully work your way around all edges with your pry tool.
Remove the three (3) small Phillips screws holding the motherboard in place. There will also be two (2) flex cables that will need to be released. These are simple pop connectors that only need to be lifted with a safe open pry tool to release.
Figure 2
The motherboard can now be safely removed.
We are now left with the screen assembly and front case. Using a heat gun or hair dryer, heat the outside edges of the outer screen for 45-60 seconds. Use quick movements and do not stay in one area for too long.
Now, using a safe open pry tool, pry the screen assembly away from the front cover and bezel. Reheat if necessary.
Figure 3
Your screen assembly can now be replaced.
Simply replace the damaged parts with the new ones and reverse the order to put your phone back together again.
The screen is the super hardest part, tried with heat gun, but seams like it stick forever
doc_v15 said:
The screen is the super hardest part, tried with heat gun, but seams like it stick forever
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It shouldn't hard. Just use a pry tool and work your way round gently and slowly prying the screen up from the frame.
Hi,
i have bought a new display and installed it but the touchscreen isn`t working! Display works, all the connections of the screen to the mainboard are placed properly. Is the new screen defective?
Nice guide!
Sent from my Nexus S
Räph96 said:
Hi,
i have bought a new display and installed it but the touchscreen isn`t working! Display works, all the connections of the screen to the mainboard are placed properly. Is the new screen defective?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If its not a connection issue then it could be a bad screen. Does the touch screen on your original still function ok? You may wish to contact your supplier.
shockem said:
Nice guide!
Sent from my Nexus S
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. Glad it helps!
When attempting to disassemble my NS4G to do this repair, I encountered a lot of difficulty trying to remove the back housing without disturbing/breaking the front bezel. Fortunately, the replacement assembly I was installing came with a new bezel already installed; but had I needed to salvage the original (or if I ever need to disassemble the device again), do you have any more specific advice about properly removing the back housing?
Granted, I was using a guitar pick instead of a safe open pry tool, but I couldn't seem to do it without causing the bezel to come undone opposite my prying.
repairsuniverse said:
If its not a connection issue then it could be a bad screen. Does the touch screen on your original still function ok? You may wish to contact your supplier.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, the old screen is working. Also i contacted the supplier. Somebody said that there are 2 versions for i9023. Is that true?
Sent from my Nexus S using XDA
Excellent useful and informative thread.
Thank you!
Microphone
I was curious about the microphone on the board. Is it soldered on the main board or do you have to pry it off.
This is great.... now all we need is some cheap replacement screens. The moment I saw the curved glass I knew this phone was going to be expensive to fix.
nickel911 said:
This is great.... now all we need is some cheap replacement screens. The moment I saw the curved glass I knew this phone was going to be expensive to fix.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can find replacement screens here - Samsung Replacement Screens
here is a live video;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dYB5wiFFIno http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dYB5wiFFIno
has anyone replaced just the outer glass? i bought the outer glass, but i don't know how to separate it from the rest of the assembly.
svtfmook said:
has anyone replaced just the outer glass? i bought the outer glass, but i don't know how to separate it from the rest of the assembly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can't successfully replace just the glass. The glass and the LCD are fused together on these models.
iFixit also has a guide...cant post links yet but easy to find with a quick search
How would you use one of these to replace just the screen: http://www.ebay.com/itm/All-New-Out...773?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a77cd07e5
interessant said:
How would you use one of these to replace just the screen: http://www.ebay.com/itm/All-New-Out...773?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a77cd07e5
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can't successfully replace just the glass. The glass and the LCD are fused together on these models as we said in an earlier post.
These eBay sellers really shouldn't sell these parts as they can not be used.
Thanks for the response. So even a heat gun won't work right?
-sent from outerspace
Does your outer and inner screen having issue? Repairing the Samsung Focus i917 is a fairly simple task. This repair guide will walk you through the steps required to replace your AMOLED (LCD) and glass touchscreen digitizer combo. Follow this guide to insure a quick and safe repair for your Samsung smartphone.
This guide will help you to install the following Samsung Focus i917 part(s):
Samsung Focus i917 AMOLED (LCD) & Touch Screen Glass Digitizer Replacement
Tools Required:
Safe Open Pry Tool
Small Phillips Screwdriver
Hot Air Gun / Hair Dryer (optional)
Samsung Focus i917 apart guide:
First remove the back cover and the battery from the phone. Next remove the six small phillips screws. Once the screws are removed, use a safe pry tool to release the clips along the sides of the casing. Once the clips have been release you can remove the back housing from the rest of the phone.
Next ease the motherboard up slightly to allow access to the ribbon cable underneath the motherboard. Release this ribbon connector using a safe pry tool or screwdriver. With the ribbon released, you can now open the phone. Careful as the motherboard is still connected.
Using a safe pry tool release the ribbon clip, put the mother board on the side but be careful as it is still connected. Next, ease out the volume button. You will now be able to fully remove the motherboard from the rest of the phone.
You can now release the jaw connector on the back of the screen releasing the flex cable. Do this using a safe open pry tool to release the small flap on the back side of the connector.
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Figure 1
Next using a hot hair dryer or heat gun, warm the front of the screen along the sides on the top to the bottom to warm the adhesive which is holding the screen to the frame of the phone. Use a safe pry tool to pry the glass away from the frame of the phone.
Ease the ribbon cables through the hole so that we can remove the screen, once the screen removed you can now replace it.
Figure 2
Simply replace the damaged parts with the new ones and reverse the order to put your phone back together again.
Thank you, good initiative! Hopefully won't be many in need of this but just in case
Could you add specialized replacing (screen, charger assembly, mic etc)? I know there's several videos out there. What would also be good is have a document attached here (pictures on image-hosts tend to get lost after some time) for reference.
There's a MUCH easier way....
When I was searching for a screen replacement for my Focus, I came across two options. One is the glass, digitizer and LCD combo. Which requires the steps in this write up, and the video that you'll find on youtube. Heat gun, new adhesive, etc.
Along with that option, there is another item that is the glass, digitizer, LCD already installed in the front half of the frame. It comes with the earphone jack already installed. And maybe a few other odd bits. All you have to do is take your phone apart, remove your motherboard with camera and vib motor, and install it in the new chassis. Thats it.
Best part about option #2... ITS THE SAME PRICE AS JUST THE GLASS/LCD/DIGI! I paid $95 shipped. In my opinion, you cant beat it. Even if the heat gun method was only 50 bucks...I would still pay more for the whole frame. Its so easy, so quick, and the best part, you dont have to worry about the new screen popping off because the adhesive failed.
Just my $.02!
J.
For a more detailed repair take a look at our Focus video repair guide. It is a great addition to this take apart guide.
Nice guide and the images are clear. thanks for sharing
timm.avouris said:
Nice guide and the images are clear. thanks for sharing
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're Welcome!
ghettocruiser said:
There's a MUCH easier way....
When I was searching for a screen replacement for my Focus, I came across two options. One is the glass, digitizer and LCD combo. Which requires the steps in this write up, and the video that you'll find on youtube. Heat gun, new adhesive, etc.
Along with that option, there is another item that is the glass, digitizer, LCD already installed in the front half of the frame. It comes with the earphone jack already installed. And maybe a few other odd bits. All you have to do is take your phone apart, remove your motherboard with camera and vib motor, and install it in the new chassis. Thats it.
Best part about option #2... ITS THE SAME PRICE AS JUST THE GLASS/LCD/DIGI! I paid $95 shipped. In my opinion, you cant beat it. Even if the heat gun method was only 50 bucks...I would still pay more for the whole frame. Its so easy, so quick, and the best part, you dont have to worry about the new screen popping off because the adhesive failed.
Just my $.02!
J.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Purchasing the LCD/touch screen combo is definitely the way to go!
I am certain that I'm getting the post syntax incorrect, let me know and I'll adjust it.
Anywho, I found out too late that when removing the black goo from the LCD's flex cable, you need to:
1. Heat it gently
2. Pull the goo from the INSIDE EDGE to the OUTSIDE EDGE.
3. Not break that paper-thin, fragile, incredibly tiny sliver of plastic that is the difference between an LCD that will turn on and an LCD that will not!
So, I managed to do none of these things. I went ahead and replaced the digitizer and tried various (failed) methods of mitigating the damage I had wrought, finding no help on the internet, only commiseration.
Tonight I had a flash of inspiration, and what the heck, it worked. I carefully used a needle to separate the tiny wire tips protruding from the clamp (my poorly-considered sideways goo-removal bent a few until they touched each other) while wishing I had a microscope, then I prepared a short length of PLASTIC DRINKING STRAW, folded it in half lengthwise ("long-ways"), and gingerly placed it beneath the overlying digitizer cable so that it compressed the LCD cable against the contacts beneath. I put the phone back together, and here I am today.
Now, I probably should have laid a bit of tape over this so that it won't shake free. I'll wait until it shakes free to do that, then report back.
I fully expect this post to elicit discussion of the dozen ways in which to better achieve this repair, and why my method is the worst of the bunch.
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I guess yours isn't the worst fix!
moktarino said:
I am certain that I'm getting the post syntax incorrect, let me know and I'll adjust it.
Anywho, I found out too late that when removing the black goo from the LCD's flex cable, you need to:
1. Heat it gently
2. Pull the goo from the INSIDE EDGE to the OUTSIDE EDGE.
3. Not break that paper-thin, fragile, incredibly tiny sliver of plastic that is the difference between an LCD that will turn on and an LCD that will not!
So, I managed to do none of these things. I went ahead and replaced the digitizer and tried various (failed) methods of mitigating the damage I had wrought, finding no help on the internet, only commiseration.
Tonight I had a flash of inspiration, and what the heck, it worked. I carefully used a needle to separate the tiny wire tips protruding from the clamp (my poorly-considered sideways goo-removal bent a few until they touched each other) while wishing I had a microscope, then I prepared a short length of PLASTIC DRINKING STRAW, folded it in half lengthwise ("long-ways"), and gingerly placed it beneath the overlying digitizer cable so that it compressed the LCD cable against the contacts beneath. I put the phone back together, and here I am today.
Now, I probably should have laid a bit of tape over this so that it won't shake free. I'll wait until it shakes free to do that, then report back.
I fully expect this post to elicit discussion of the dozen ways in which to better achieve this repair, and why my method is the worst of the bunch.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Apparently, it's not such a bad idea after all! I'm just wondering how to adapt it to work on an EVO 4G. There's no ribbon to put it underneath, but I get the idea... one would think those incredibly thin/weak plastic clamps (which should be relatively simple to replace) could be purchases for 10 to 100 times what they are worth (say, $3USD?) and problem solved. I put an HD2 screen in an EVO 4G, worked fine, until I didn't glue it in properly, and it popped out. My g/f brought it back to me, saying that I needed to fix it right! I went back in, and that damned wide flex ribbon cable, just the angle I was at, along with my son jumping about the table I was working at, I inadvertently broke that clamp, in three pieces! Damned frustrating too! I gotta get me a dedicated desk for my PC/CELL/TV repairs... with lights, magnifying glass, and a locked door...
Well folks, I have outdone myself today. I was digging through my old tech to harvest the buzzer motor out of an old Boost Mobile Motorola i425 phone. After ripping it apart for the motor, I decided to pick through the rest of the parts to see if there was anything worth keeping (I bet you know where I'm going with this by now), and after harvesting the speakers, I noticed that the LCD cable looked suspiciously similar to the one on my poor Droid X.
3 hours later, I have fully repaired my Droid X. It was pretty tricky though, but I discovered that if you bend the metal bits at either end of the connector down, you can slide the clamp in and then bend them back upright.
Parts reuse FTW! Thanks Motorola! i425's are apparently $5 on eBay now, btw.
You saved my life (and the one from my Sensation). Such a simple and working idea! Thanks!
So I have a new Nexus 4 screen that has the top corner cracked and with an air bubble underneath. (See attached photo)
What is the best way to repair it cheaply? Do I need to replace just the glass or the digitizer or both? And should I use a chinese one? I was looking on ebay and the OEM digitizer is $60 while the Chinese one is $15. My guess is that the Chinese one doesn't use Gorilla Glass, right? So it breaks with any impact?
Does anyone have experience with this? I'm located in Montreal, Canada.
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montrealguy said:
So I have a new Nexus 4 screen that has the top corner cracked and with an air bubble underneath. (See attached photo)
What is the best way to repair it cheaply? Do I need to replace just the glass or the digitizer or both? And should I use a chinese one? I was looking on ebay and the OEM digitizer is $60 while the Chinese one is $15. My guess is that the Chinese one doesn't use Gorilla Glass, right? So it breaks with any impact?
Does anyone have experience with this? I'm located in Montreal, Canada.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If your lcd works fine then replace the digitizer, but you need to use the heat gun to separate them. If you aren't super delicate with that, you can damage the lcd easily. I think you might also need LOCA glue to glue the new digitizer to lcd, and UV light to dry it (not too sure about this tho).
I honestly don't know what's the difference between chinese and oem. If chinese isnt gorilla glass (tempered glass) it can get scratches easier, but both will propably crack on (hard) impact. As far as I know gorilla glass is scratch resistant not crack resistant.
Take a look at this video, it shows you everything you need to replace the digitizer. They also sell N4 digitizers and all other stuff you need to replace the digitizer, theres more info below their video.
There is also LCD Separation Machine maybe you have some local guys who might let you use this device?
Please note that I'm telling you all this from what I know and I dont have any experience changing digitizer/lcd on N4. And I could be wrong.
Please keep us updated, what you did/bought...
Thats bad. You gota have it changed. I think youd have to get a new panel if im not mistaken..
Don't try and change just the glass, result will most likely be terrible. Replace it with full frame assembly.
@montrealguy
I recently replaced my screen assembly with the bezel for just under $60 (USD) off eBay. Replaced the battery while I was at it ($20). It's actually quite easy to do, at least relative to other phones. You can find a youtube video or a teardown tutorial off ifixit.com. I'm sure all I needed was a new digitizer, but I didn't want to mess around with all that, spend money on the extra equipment (heat gun, glue, etc), and I doubt my results would have been good. You can get just the screen assembly for $45, but IMO it's better to buy the whole thing with the bezel. Less work, less chance of screwing things up, and the entire front of your phone will look brand new.:good: If you don't have one, or the vendor you buy the assembly from doesn't supply one, get a T5 TORX driver while you're at it, and a tiny phillips (No. 0 or No.1) screwdriver.
I did run into one problem, and one that seems to be a common one. When reassembled, the proximity sensor was reading "near" rather than "far" (using a sensor diagnostic app). The result is that the screen immediately goes off and unresponsive when making a call, as though it was up to your ear already, and you can't hang up. The solution, stupidly enough is to put the rubber gasket piece that goes over the prox/light sensor unit on backwards (big hole over the little sensor, little hole over the big sensor). Try it correctly the first time, and if that doesn't work, put it in backwards. You don't have to completely reassemble the phone, just swap everything over to the new assembly, plug all the thingies (I don't know what they're actually called) back in, and swap the button boards over. Probably put the few screws that go around the sensor in to make sure that part is tight. Turn it on and run a sensor detector app.
If you have any specific questions, let me know; I probably took apart and reassembled my N4 twenty times trying to fix the proximity sensor issue, so I'm well versed in the guts of this phone now.
@Planterz could you post the eBay link where you got your screen assembly from please
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
Doo Doo said:
@Planterz could you post the eBay link where you got your screen assembly from please
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-LG-E960...e_Replacement_Parts_Tools&hash=item23349c472f
No tools were provided. I already had the appropriate screwdrivers, and to split the case apart, I used the fingernail cleaner on a Swiss Army Knife. You might want to get proper cellphone repair tools though (they're plastic, and shouldn't damage anything). If you have a hairdrier or something that can heat it up to soften the glue, it should make things easier, but I didn't have any problems without that. Just go slowly. Don't pry too hard, or you might crack the back glass. A plastic knife (the white, flexible kind, not the clear, brittle ones) could work.