How do I remove the Samsung S View cover?
Do I pry it the side or the upper part where the headphone jack is located? Or do either way works?
I remove mine by prying from the headphone port side and has been fine.
You can pry almost anywhere along the seam if you are gentle. Pry with a fingernail or soft plastic. There is a bit of a detent on the vertical side that is perhaps easiest.
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Thanks guys. Just pryed it off, it was indeed very easy to get it off.
Related
Hi!
Can anyone help me with recommendations how to remove back cover from my XDA I? I tryed to do that, but unsuccessfully . I don't want to damage this device, so I decidied to ask some advice.
Xda I case open
Just use a slot screwdriver for the top two slot screws. Then T6 for bottom two. Then unit held screen face-down ; use a plastic lolly stick with sharpend flat edge to work between front and back case. It`s best to start at the bottom right edge, near the hard reset hole.
Using a downward push action, plus, practice the case should just pop apart. Work the stick around the bottom, forcefully. Things should just workout o.k. from there.
Remove the void sticker from screw using tweezers. With care it will remain in tact, and can be replaced.
Remember to be forcefull
anyone have some more details to get into the xda ( i amtrying to replace the LCD) pictures/instructions what ever i can get will be greatly appreciated
I used a T6 torx for the bottom screws and a standard flat blade for the top, remove stylus. If you have finger nails, force your thumb nail along the groove starting near the reset hole, this will pop the tabs, you can then slide your thumb nail all the way around and remove the back. You will then need to remove 2 very small crosshead screws, one at bottom left and the ither at the top offset to the right, this is under a label "warranty void". The flat cables can be removed by bringing forward with a tiny flat screw driver, the retaining tabs, on the small ones try to bring the tabs forward towards the cable, at the same time, once you do one you will get the idea. The larger flat connecter needs the 2 retainers at the sides to be moved slightly to the sides to release the flat cable. Once this is done it is very obvious how to get the rest out. Seperating the screen from the digitizer is not so easy but it will seperate if you are diligent and careful but firm.
cruisin-thru said:
I used a T6 torx for the bottom screws and a standard flat blade for the top, remove stylus. If you have finger nails, force your thumb nail along the groove starting near the reset hole, this will pop the tabs, you can then slide your thumb nail all the way around and remove the back. You will then need to remove 2 very small crosshead screws, one at bottom left and the ither at the top offset to the right, this is under a label "warranty void". The flat cables can be removed by bringing forward with a tiny flat screw driver, the retaining tabs, on the small ones try to bring the tabs forward towards the cable, at the same time, once you do one you will get the idea. The larger flat connecter needs the 2 retainers at the sides to be moved slightly to the sides to release the flat cable. Once this is done it is very obvious how to get the rest out. Seperating the screen from the digitizer is not so easy but it will seperate if you are diligent and careful but firm.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks bud... well i dont want to mess with the digitiser if it is a pain the spare i am getting is having a prob wih sound so i will just go ahead and replace both instead of trying to seperate them... will keep u posted as soon as the other one arrives...
if anyone has more comments plz feel free to add the more the merrier and the chances of a screw up are reduced.
i will also try take pictures along the way so that someone else gains.
Broken XDA
Hi all,
can anyone help me fix my xda. A couple of weeks ago a bit of the headphone plug broke inside the connector. In an attempt to clear it I opened up the XDA. But now it doesn't power on after I've replaced the cover.
Any pointers would be much appreciated
Before you open your phone you should push the unscrewed top half of the stylus in the hole bottom right of your xda, this disconnects the battery, you need to check the flat shiny connecters on the edge of the board make sure thay havent been pulled out, the power from batter is on 2 contact pads inside rear of case so I dont think that is the problem. You could try using the stylus as mentioned as it may need switching back on.
I picked up a new screen off of the internet. I cannot find a guide to disassemble the Titan. Do I have to take the phone all the way apart to replace the lcd? Anyone have any useful links?
The only thing I found was a youtube walkthrough but she is replacing the casing not the lcd screen.
Thanks
instruction
hi,
i have changed my screen 3 times and my touchscreen 1 time. You dont need instruction the only thing you have to know is that you have to open the device completely to access the screen.
gl
I have just taken mine apart last night for the first time using no instructions and it really wasn't that bad. I got a digitizer coming in the mail, if you'd like to wait until I get it, I can take pictures of the dissasembly process and post the pics, but it may not be until Friday.
The steps are:
1. Remove battery cover, battery and stylus
2. Remove 4 hex screws then remove back cover gently
3. Remove the 4 phillips head screws that hold the motherboard in place
4. Lift the motherboard gently and remove the ribbon cables plugged in the back (there is silver tape holding it in place, peel that off gently)
5. Remove the 4 phillips head screwes that hold the slider, then while removing the slider chassis, carefully snake the ribbons through the square center
6. Remove the 4 phillips head screws holding the back of LCD case
7. Remove the top and bottom plastic strips where the screws were (there is another phillips head screw under one of those, just don't remember which one)
8. Gently separate the back cover from the LCD case
At this point, you have to just be careful of what you do. You have one long ribbon cable that is plugged in to the LCD and the buttons on top. Also, there is MUCH silver tape holding this mess in place, so peel the tape off gently until it is all separated. Once you got the tape off and the ribbon cable unplugged at both spots, it will all just fold downwards and the LCD/Digitizer should just fall out.
If you are replacing both LCD and Digitizer then that's easier, if you need to separatte those two then just gently remove the metal casing that is holding them together, there are clips that hold that metal casing in place, so just be gentle.
Like I said, if you'd rather wait for the pics then those should be around on Friday or so.
Hope this helps
-wagonis
Do you mind my asking of how much you paid?
there's a complete non-technical walkthrough floating around youtube and ^, ^^ are correct. It's not difficult if you're at least somewhat mechanically/electronically inclined..
If there a teardown guide for the Wildfire? I'm planning on replacing the fascia to a black or white one
I googled it and I found the EVO and the Desire...
Thanks.
nicky041192 said:
If there a teardown guide for the Wildfire? I'm planning on replacing the fascia to a black or white one
I googled it and I found the EVO and the Desire...
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Surely its pretty similar to the desire?
IcyWildfire said:
Surely its pretty similar to the desire?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's what I was thinking but I'm not too sure...
I just did a screen replacement on a German Wildfire today, I used a desire guide briefly - but it was pretty simple. 8 screws and 3 ribbons in total isn't to bad for a full teardown.
Here's the brief:
1) remove back battery cover
2) remove battery, MicroSD, and SIM
3) remove 4 corner star screws
4) remove 2 philips screws from right hand rail (sim card side)
5) Unclip bottom bracket and remove
6) Unclip plastic back from both side rails and remove
7) Remove 2 philips screws from bottom right and top left of breadboard
8) Disconnect haptic feedback ribbon from bottom left by lifting the black lever and sliding out the ribbon (very narrow ribbon)
9) Disconnect screen and touch screen ribbons on right hand edge by lifting them up (they're snap-ons)
10) Lift volume board up from between main bread board and volume button
11) remove breadboard from front housing
12) Peel back the bottom ribbon from the back of the screen (it's glued on with light adhesive)
13) Lift up bottom corner of screen and remove screen from front housing
in the end you should have these pieces:
Front housing
Screen
Bread Board
Back Housing
Bottom Plastic Clip
Back cover
2 Small philips Screws (breadboard)
2 large philips screws (back housing right hand edge)
4 large star screws (back housing corners)
Sorry, I literally just finished this an hour ago. Hope this helps.
i tear-down my wildfire like SophT. my big problem is now, to put the new digitizer in the phone. the old was glued and now i didn't have any idea to fix the new in the phone. have anyone an idea ?!
i think i destroyed the new display. on both sides of the new one were a protective sheet. i removed both, the phone works perfectly, but there is no possibility to use the touchscreen. There are no inputs possible. Have I destroyed with the removal of the film, the new display?
w1st said:
i think i destroyed the new display. on both sides of the new one were a protective sheet. i removed both, the phone works perfectly, but there is no possibility to use the touchscreen. There are no inputs possible. Have I destroyed with the removal of the film, the new display?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm okay with this and I think it's hilarious.
Hello all. Yes I am a noob to the forum, but not to small electronics and the dismantling of them. After getting everything set up on my machine necessary to Root my TF and side load the netflix app, I noticed my power button wasn't being as responsive as it should. Doing a quick google search I found that this was a common thing, even on TFs with stock firmware, so I took to dismantling the thing to figure out what is causing it.
I did a quick search to see if anyone has cracked the case open and found this thread. I didn't use a guitar pick, but rather a plastic and metal spuder set I had from repairing my mom's ipod touch (damn soldered batteries!).
Tools:
Tool Kit
Or
A T5 Torx bit
A spudger
#0 Phillips screwdriver.
Lock-Tite super glue gel (optional!)
1. Start by removing the two T5 torx bits from both sides of the charging/dock port
2. Use the plastic spudger or guitar pick and loose the seam around the entire case. If you look closely at the face, you will see the glass meet a black plastic rim and then the metal rim around that. What you are aiming to do is separate the black plastic from the glass. The plastic is glued to the metal so if you see adhesive separating, you are prying the wrong spot. There are various plastic tabs around the glass like a TV remote so using the plastic spuder is safer until you get some visible room to go in with the metal one.
3. Once you have the frame off, there are 4 #0 Phillips screws on the face, one at each corner, then 3 screws on the top and bottom of the frame (previously under the metal case
4. Removing all 4 face screws plus 6 rail screws will allow you to remove the back plastic. Now you can see everything
5. Bonus points for ASUS for giving us a battery that unplugs vs one that is soldered in (damn you apple). If you want some peace of mind, you can pop off the battery cable. I did not see any side effects from doing this (no data loss, etc).
6. On the side with the power and volume buttons, you will see a blue-tipped silver cable under a black tab. This black tab is what holds the ribbon down and lifts up like a toilet seat. It does not pull forward, it does not pop off (unless you broke it), but because it is plastic, be gentle. Once the tab is lifted, the silver cable will come out.
7. Unscrew the 3 #0 Phillip screws holding down the button board for easier access remove it.
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It doesn't matter whether you are having a volume issue or power button issue, so long as you know its hardware related. The way these buttons work is under constant pressure is "off" and removing that pressure turns it "on". So the metal tab pushes down on the plastic button, which pushes down on the switch. What is happening is over time, that metal tab gives way to less pressure on the daisy chain and the button stops working. The good news is, this metal tab is just held on via 'wings' around the soldered base. A razer knife is enough to gently lift the wings to pop the assembly apart for repairing. Given the construction of these switches, I wish ASUS just made the entire board available, but oh well.
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8. With the offending metal cap off, bend the middle thumb further down and back in to position and re-assemble the switch.
9. (Optional). I bent my tab further in to prevent me from having to re-do this operation several months from now, but doing so meant that ANY pressure on the button caused the metal cap to pop back off. That is really bad if the case is re-assembled. My solution was to swab some lock-tite super glue gel on the bottom wings and base of the metal cap and put it back on the switch. A very thin film is sufficient because it is a gel, it dries in seconds. WARNING> Once you reassemble the switch, keep pressure on the metal cap while you keep pressing the black button. If you don't, any glue leakage will lock that button in place.
Hi.
Does anybody know if it is possible to remove the screen without damaging it?
I want to replace my "home" button and from what I saw in guides on the internet removing the screen is a must.
Unfortunately all the guides available out there show the removal of an already damaged screen .
There is no mention if you can remove a good one without damaging anything. And I am not talking about cracking it because it is glue. I am talking about the foil on the back . some portions of it remain glued to the assembly. What purporse does it serve?
Hi.
I did this just last week.
Unscrew motherboard and bottom board.
Remove motherboard
flip bottom board (its held by the back and menu button ribbon cables, dont force them)
get a heat gun, put it to whatever temp the internet suggests to not damage anything (I used a gas soldering iron, but melted a bit of plastic)
get a PLASTIC wedge tool, I used one of those car upholstery remover kits
probably need gloves
Apply heat to both sides to soften glue; using wedge tool, separate stylus sensor copper foil glued to the plastic frame
Tedious, but I've only stretched a bit the copper foil, did not tear it. After remount, the stylus works accurately.