I have a note 3 sm n900.
But in my camera if the turn image smart stabilisation off the photos sre taken are very fast but they start cracking if i zoom in.. if i take a pic of a book or something the words arent very clear,i even tried keeping my hands very steady while taking the photos.
On the other hand enbablimg smart stabilisation, camera takes around one second to take a photo and the photos arr very clear.
This shouldnt be happening, right?
Whats the point of having smart stabilisation off if the photos look like taken from a 2MP shooter.
Please help.
Please reply.
I have been hurt by the community as my last problems didnt even get a reply.
Sent from my SM-N900 using XDA Free mobile app
begimaad said:
I have a note 3 sm n900.
But in my camera if the turn image smart stabilisation off the photos sre taken are very fast but they start cracking if i zoom in.. if i take a pic of a book or something the words arent very clear,i even tried keeping my hands very steady while taking the photos.
On the other hand enbablimg smart stabilisation, camera takes around one second to take a photo and the photos arr very clear.
This shouldnt be happening, right?
Whats the point of having smart stabilisation off if the photos look like taken from a 2MP shooter.
Please help.
Please reply.
I have been hurt by the community as my last problems didnt even get a reply.
Sent from my SM-N900 using XDA Free mobile app
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Are you aware of how camera sensors work?
Smart stabilization is meant to offset the use of higher ISOs/lower shutter speeds so that your pictures turn out less noisy. Given that the Note 3's max aperture is f/2.2, let's make an example.
In the daylight, your ISO can drop and thus picture quality can improve (this is very barebones, but it's for conceptual purpose). In essence, higher ISO = more noise, especially the smaller the sensor size. You can visibly see that the Note 3 has a very small sensor. In fact, even on APS-C cameras, noise performances starts to suck around ISO 3200~6400. ISO is meant to make each pixel brighter (or something to that effect), and the smaller those pixels are, the more noise you'll generate (again, not exactly, but that's the gist of what you're experiencing). So, with 13 megapixels fit onto the small sensor, you're likely going to start seeing noise at like, ISO800 (this is a random guess, but it's probably true).
Anyways, so during the daytime, there is a lot of available light, so the ISO can be reduced and exposure can be adjusted using shutter speed (assuming aperture stays the same). This improves picture quality as lower ISOs generally equate to less noise. However, as you get later into the night, less available light means that one of two things has to happen. Either your shutter speed gets slower to let in more light, or your ISO cranks up to become more sensitive to the available light (and thus more noise). Usually a combination of the two occur to get a trade off between quality and shutter speed.
A quick browse on google gave me, 1/15, f2.2, ISO 1000, as EXIF data from an iPhone 5s taking a picture at night. As you can see, the ISO is pretty high for the small sensor, and the shutter speed is quite low. As a rule of thumb, you generally want at least an equivalent shutter speed to the focal length, but given the crop factor of this lens, I have no idea what that'd actually be. But 1/15th is very, very hard to hold without some form of IS/OS, even on full-frame cameras. What you're experiencing is this effect. The low shutter speed to let in more light means that even if you breath and shift the camera 1cm, you'll get blur. It's not out of focus, but the subjects weren't in the same place because you moved, causing them to be rendered in shift. The noise is the result of the ISO being too high; the pixel sensitivity isn't that great, and so you're getting all kinds of weird colours that the phone is trying to represent without definitive data. Again, we're assuming that the aperture stays wide open under these conditions to let in the most light.
I hope you got the answer you were looking for. Basically, what you want is pretty hard to do, even with a full-framed DSLR (although it's becoming less true with recent image processing). You can't really turn of IS/OS and expect the pictures to be great. There's a lot of other things that are taken into account behind the scenes that are usually beyond your control on your phone. Smart stabilization using image processing algorithms to help mitigate the impact of higher ISOs and lower shutter speeds by post-processing the images you take on the fly. Such is the cause of the delay.
What version you're running , do you try to use any third-party camera app results may vary , did you increase exposure value, try to reser all camera setting to default
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msasm09 said:
What version you're running , do you try to use any third-party camera app results may vary , did you increase exposure value, try to reser all camera setting to default
Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
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Got it sorted out. In not so bright conditions the pictures start breaking and by turning on smart stabilisation it gets fixed. Credit goes to the last persom who explained. Best explanation ever. Hats off to u
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I know the camera issue has been beat to death already but I've been testing it for many days and would like to relay my results. A lot of people are saying that the auto focus is bad causing blurry pictures. This is false, the focus works great but the camera always chooses a shutter speed that's to low for the lighting causing blur on subjects in motion. The only way I can get the shutter speed over 1/20 is by taking a picture in bright light. Even in above average lighting conditions the shutter will go to 1/20 or below. There is no option for metering so I wonder if LG coded something wrong in the camera drivers. I have tried every camera program out there and they all take the exact same picture using the same to low shutter speed which tells me it's not the stock camera app. I don't have the skill to dive into the programming but that is where the problem seems to be. It's the same brand (Sony) camera sensor as the SGS4 so I know that it's not the sensors fault.
Any thoughts?
Sent from my LG-D803 using xda app-developers app
Anybody else have any ideas?
I'm also seeing these ridiculous shutter speeds (1/14, 1/20) when shooting in low light indoors, even if picking Sport mode, and was looking for a discussion on the topic here. Happy to find it
I had almost given up getting the camera to do what I wanted, when I discovered that the Intelligent Auto feature actually sometimes is ... intelligent. I took 4 photos of my toddler - obviously, not a subject willing to sit still. All photos on intelligent auto.
For two of the photos, the software shot with ISO 700 and 1/15th shutter, pretty much what Normal does every time. But - the other two were taken with ISO 1400-1/30 and ISO 1500-1/30. Naturally, the latter two were a lot sharper.
This is incredibly annoying since the Normal mode only lets you manually pick max ISO 800 and gives no shutter speed control. Until I found out about this intelligent auto thing, I forced -1, -1 1/3 stops underexposure to make the camera use a faster shutter (it typically used 1/59 for some reason). Now I guess I will take 5-6 pics every time and hope the camera is indeed intelligent part of the time.
- Is there no custom camera app capable of setting shutter speed manually, and use the ISO settings available to Intelligent Auto?
- Noone's had any word from LG on this?
I will be contacting LG support about this as well, but wanted to get the XDA word on the matter first...
Cheers, Are
Just replying to say I'm having the same issue. The fastest shutter speed I've seen is 1/15 in a well lit, easy to focus shot. The vast majority of my shots are blurry as a result.
I'm running Cyanogenmod at the moment.
I'm having pretty bad shutter speeds as well. It take 2 seconds to take a well-lit picture.
Guys , Try out the Moto X camera app. I may be wrong but i think its a bit faster .
JasElS said:
I'm having pretty bad shutter speeds as well. It take 2 seconds to take a well-lit picture.
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farazafs said:
Guys , Try out the Moto X camera app. I may be wrong but i think its a bit faster .
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I'm not talking about how long it takes to take the picture, that's delay. I'm talking shutter speed, how long the shutter stays open allowing light to hit the sensor.
I have not had any big problems with this, most of my shots are pretty tack sharp, and seem to have some decent shutterspeeds.. Only in very poor light I do get 1/15 shutterspeeds but at pretty average lights I get 1/30-1/120 sometimes faster, but mostly 1/40..
My shutterdelay is almist nothing too..
I found a modified version of the stock LG G2 camera by sefnap that works with CM 10.2 M1 and produces much better results: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2522889
Some of the features don't work but overall it's vastly better than the camera included with CM.
There is also another modified version of the stock camera put up by Heatshiver that probably works even better but it doesn't currently work with CM (only works with stock and some AOSP ROMs): http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2525783
I just discovered something the other day when playing with my camera... Albeit in bright light. Check out these pics taken at 60mph from my car while I was driving (ie not the most steady hand).
What I did was set it on sports mode and then old down the camera button until I heard the beep, and then released to capture the image I wanted (ie the road signs). The one out of my car window was actually more focused than I could focus with my naked eye...
My S4 takes really terrible pictures indoors. It takes decent pictures outdoors but man is it terrible indoors. It does compensate for the light which is great, but it plaster the entire screen with a white mesh film that makes it look grainy and just plain terrible.
Is this a feature of the S4? Or a defect? Has anyone been able to fiddle with the settings to find the most optimal picture for indoors or in general?
Sepharite said:
My S4 takes really terrible pictures indoors. It takes decent pictures outdoors but man is it terrible indoors. It does compensate for the light which is great, but it plaster the entire screen with a white mesh film that makes it look grainy and just plain terrible.
Is this a feature of the S4? Or a defect? Has anyone been able to fiddle with the settings to find the most optimal picture for indoors or in general?
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The Galaxy S4's F2.2 lens is not the fastest in the business (both the HTC One and Nokia Lumia 920/925) feature F2.0 lenses) but, in combination with relatively slow shutter speeds, it's fast enough to allow for shooting at low ISO settings even when taking pictures indoors.
In low light the S4 will use shutter speeds as slow as 1/15 sec which, given an equivalent focal length of 31mm, can lead to some camera shake. In low light it's therefore advisable to, whenever possible, take two or three shots of a scene to increase the chances of capturing at least one sharp image. You can also activate digital image stabilization which simply increases the minimum shutter speed to 1/30 sec, but this is very slow for moving subjects. In those situations your best option is to manually select higher ISO settings, but given that neither ISO or shutter speed are displayed on the live view screen, this can feel a little like flying in the dark. In this respect the Samsung is no different to its main competitors though.
Once the camera does climb up the ISO ladder, image grain and noise reduction show their ugly faces pretty quickly. That said, while at a pixel level the blurring and softening effects of noise reduction become visible pretty quickly, chroma noise is very well under control and the S4 images are usable at smaller viewing sizes up to the maximum ISO setting. The S4's high pixel count also means that at equalized viewing sizes image noise is less prominent than on some lower resolution competitors. Overall the Galaxy S4's low light performance is decent in Auto mode but when photographing people or other moving subjects it can be useful to interfere manually for best results.
Good response. Very informative.
Would you say the Nexus 5 has a better camera?
Sepharite said:
Good response. Very informative.
Would you say the Nexus 5 has a better camera?
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no
Would people care to post tips about what are best settings to use in:
low light photos
fast subjects
etc,
Don't have this phone, but I can share some common knowledge.
There's a term often called "exposure triangle". Proper exposure is achieved by combining three variables - ISO, aperture, shutter speed. High ISO, wide aperture (low f-number) and low shutter speed give you more light. Depending on what you're shooting, you'd want to sacrifice one or the other. High ISO gives you more light at the expense of image quality. Wide aperture gives you more light at the expense of lower depth of field (which is not necessarily bad - e.g. may be intentionally desired). Low shutter speed gives you more light at the expense of not being able to give you a sharp image of something that's moving. Generally you can vary one to compensate for the other two. With most phones, the aperture is fixed, so you're left with only shutter speed and ISO.
For low light, you'd want to drop the shutter speed to something like 1/10 or 1/5 - if the subject is still and your hands are steady, you can have a sharp photo this way. The lower you drop the shutter speed, the lower ISO you will need to ensure proper exposure - and the lower the ISO, the cleaner the image given the exposure is proper - but don't try to keep the ISO low if it would result in an underexposed shot. Experiment with what is the lowest speed at which you can manage a sharp shot.
For fast subjects, it depends - sometimes 1/100 is enough, sometimes 1/500 is not enough - very much depends on what you're shooting (primarily how fast it is moving). Again, try it yourself.
killchain said:
Don't have this phone, but I can share some common knowledge.
There's a term often called "exposure triangle". Proper exposure is achieved by combining three variables - ISO, aperture, shutter speed. High ISO, wide aperture (low f-number) and low shutter speed give you more light. Depending on what you're shooting, you'd want to sacrifice one or the other. High ISO gives you more light at the expense of image quality. Wide aperture gives you more light at the expense of lower depth of field (which is not necessarily bad - e.g. may be intentionally desired). Low shutter speed gives you more light at the expense of not being able to give you a sharp image of something that's moving. Generally you can vary one to compensate for the other two. With most phones, the aperture is fixed, so you're left with only shutter speed and ISO.
For low light, you'd want to drop the shutter speed to something like 1/10 or 1/5 - if the subject is still and your hands are steady, you can have a sharp photo this way. The lower you drop the shutter speed, the lower ISO you will need to ensure proper exposure - and the lower the ISO, the cleaner the image given the exposure is proper - but don't try to keep the ISO low if it would result in an underexposed shot. Experiment with what is the lowest speed at which you can manage a sharp shot.
For fast subjects, it depends - sometimes 1/100 is enough, sometimes 1/500 is not enough - very much depends on what you're shooting (primarily how fast it is moving). Again, try it yourself.
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Exactly as mentioned above pretty much, I will add a little more.
Normal cameras you can change the aperture which in turn will also affect the required shutter speed for the correct exposure in the given shot. Your phone does not have this, only a fixed aperture, how you phone regulates this is through shutter speed and adjusting your ISO. Manual with all cameras is recommend for best results, as your camera can make bad decisions for these exposures.
Perfect example I can give you is the other night I was trying to photograph christmas lights, the camera was trying to illuminate the entire scene over exposing all the lights, I had to compensate this by underexposing by one stop what the camera was trying to expose.
If you have ever photographed scenes with lots of black and or lots of white, with black your phone overexposes and you black becomes greyish the rest of the shot is bright white. With white your phone underexposes, the white has lots of details but the background is very dark of completely black. it each of these situations if you don't take control you will not get the best out of the scene.
Thank you contributors. I found out that by changing the exposure my screen darkens quite a lot but when I take the photo comes out a lot lighter. What is that about? Is it not wysiwig?
mihaid said:
Thank you contributors. I found out that by changing the exposure my screen darkens quite a lot but when I take the photo comes out a lot lighter. What is that about? Is it not wysiwig?
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The camera is trying to show you a real time image, so in low light it has to keep the shutter faster to keep up with you moving the camera, if they didn't do this and it was showing you real time in low light you would have to wait the exposure time, this would get really annoying as you have to wait for each frame to refresh
So in summary they have a minimum shutter they show in the screen preview (not sure what this is) maybe 1/15 sec so it can keep up with you panning/moving the camera
The Sony display tries to improve the look of photos, you have noticed when you view a photo that it changes while you are looking at it.
If you want a less post-processing you can use "Landscape" mode. You will get visible color noise in low light situations but also more detail in dark areas. A bit like what G4/V10 does and depeding on scene it can be passable. In good lighting it brings out the details better than other modes. It does though like to up the ISO but it can be countered with the EV.
Does people even have the phone to make comments, the only settings in manual mode is change iso value that's it, there is no shutter speed at least not in Sony stock camera app
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You can change most of the settings mentioned above using the Fv-5 app, try it
babarmaqbool said:
good
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Stop with the good spam in each thread please.
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Vcaddy said:
You can change most of the settings mentioned above using the Fv-5 app, try it
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It is not free (lite version is horrible) and can only shoot long exposure in 2.1 MP.
I bet it doesn't even shoot a real long exposure, I think it just shoots a video into a picture.
BTW, normal photos can only be taken in 8mp max.
This phone needs a real manual mode like the G4 because the phone really does not deal with low light well due to lack of control in the app. FV-5 is useless really as it's only 8mp and doesn't really do any better than stock on this phone or the G4
Jonathan-H said:
This phone needs a real manual mode like the G4 because the phone really does not deal with low light well due to lack of control in the app. FV-5 is useless really as it's only 8mp and doesn't really do any better than stock on this phone or the G4
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Agreed.
Long exposure in vf-5 app is only 2.1mp btw.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/albums/72157665297843674
I found them really ugly for the quality. It is only me or they are actually ugly. Also video are recorded in 1080P and quality really suck hard and sound is ugly. Something i did wrong?
All was at default settings.
low light conserts are one of the hardest things to shoot (moving objekts,moving lights etc) think the S7 did well here actually.
Try an iphone instead...
When taking photos in low light you need to stay steady for a longer time. Also, do not use hdr and flash on auto - use it on or off. Auto will reduce the quality of photo
Thanks for the tips..damn my hdr was on and it was really brutal so taking a stable picture was hard.
For a low light situation they look great. Ok the focus is a bit off but the longer shutter times will always have that effect.
Turn off video stabilisation(EIS) in setting when recording video especially when recording low light video because it do a bad job and make video more shaky and blurry(at least for me). You still have OIS working since it's physical hardware stabilization.
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They're actually pretty good for a cell phone. Yeah HDR is going to be an issue because of the shutter speeds involved in low light. These have the typical over-sharpening of Samsung cameras but not bad at all given the circumstances. Also... the high SPL levels for a metal show are going to be seriously hard to capture on a phone, the mic preamp inside the phone is easily overloaded. Turn HDR off, turn the flash off, find a way to get a steady shot... a monopod is great for this if they'll allow it into the venue, if not bracing against a wall, post, or rail will certainly help. Also be prepared to toss out 19 of 20 shots when you're doing concert photography. Concert photography isn't easy even with a DSLR the super small sensors in phones make it all that much more difficult.
You can enable manual mode on the camera and force the shutter speed to 1/100-1/200 or faster this might lower the brightness of the photos but it will help to stop the motion that you'll usually find in the performers.
You can also set it to the largest aperture (F1.7) in manual mode but keep in mind that this will make the field of focus very small, this would be good for artsy shots of the guitarist's hands on the instrument or just the singers face, not so good for full stage shots.
Another thing to try is to enable the RAW capture of the phone then do some post processing on the most in-focus of your images it will almost always be better than the decisions the phone itself is making.
All in all though, not as bad as you think.
thanks for all that tips, going to another show soon and i will do all these trick! i'll try to be the the first row instead of the second one to make great capture!
After having the Honor 8 for a while, I just started doing more photos and videos.
One problem I have seen with video and photo is focusing on distant objects, either moving or stationary.
It tends to be blurry and focuses wrong, even when touching the screen on the item I want it to focus on.
A photo issue I have noticed, (mostly this christmas) is when someone is opening a gift Most of the image taken is fine, but then have a
blurry hand or someone moving too fast. Problem is it really isnt that fast. I can probably do pro mode and decrease shutter but then may get under exposure issues.
Any tips I can do to avoid these issues or any tips on photo taking will be helpful.
Thank you.
The problem there's no OIS (optical image stabilization), that's why objects get blurred when moving.
I'm no expert but I've found that the more you can steady this cam the better off you'll be. Anchoring your hand on a solid surface helps tremendously and I've also had some luck using burst mode, then you can at least pick the one with the least blur.
CronaMell said:
The problem there's no OIS (optical image stabilization), that's why objects get blurred when moving.
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FYI, OIS won't help you with taking pictures of moving objects. It only helps steady the camera, which only helps if you're not holding the camera steady enough for the shutter speed.
OIS is a must for a high-end phone, I hate to stabilize every time I take a photo, even a slight movement ruins the quality
CronaMell said:
OIS is a must for a high-end phone, I hate to stabilize every time I take a photo, even a slight movement ruins the quality
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The images are great, just the one thing that is bothersome.
I believe the blur effect on moving objects could be due to low light. Shutter speed on Auto mode could be at higher value for a moving object. Try increasing the ISO all the way to 3200 and setting S at 1/80 (or 1/60).
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Even at daylight, the blur is present when object is moving
You need to use manual mode as mentioned by others