I pulled a broken display off a Motorola Droid Mini XT1030 and also a RAZR M XT907. I was quite impressed with the strength of the adhesive, especially considering it's just a tiny strip about 1-1.25mm wide around the outside edge of the glass. I'm curious, does anyone know what kind of adhesive it is?
What I know is:
- It's not sticky to the touch. It's some kind of cured glue.
- It's rubbery, but firm. Definitely not as soft or stretchy as silicone adhesive.
- Heat makes it a little easier to remove, but not a lot easier.
- It peels off cleanly and leaves no residue.
- It's translucent (cloudy) clear.
- Adheres extremely well to both metal (RAZR M) and plastic (Droid Mini).
Kind of makes me think of a clear version of the urethane adhesive used to attach fixed exterior windows to cars.
I know there are many ways to attach a digitizer like double-sided 3M tape, silicone adhesive, and some people even use Super Glue. I may even settle for adhesive silicone (works better than the 3M tape for me), unless anyone knows exactly what it is Motorola uses.
Related
First some background: Current replacement guides for displays used on such devices as the GS3, HOX, HOS specify replacing the full-screen bonding agent with an edge-taped solution. This results in much lower contrast ratio due to a non-spec air gap and if done improperly, dust in the air pocket over time.
The *proper* solution would be a liquid adhesive lamination (LAL) or liquid optically clear adhesive (LOCA).
The requirements of these adhesives for this application are the following:
Code:
- OEM contrast ratio
- Dust abatement
- No bubbles in final product
- Rebondability
I believe the process for using these adhesives would be the following:
Code:
- Removal of all existing adhesive from substrate
- Application of *appropriate amount (TBD)* of adhesive in center of substrate
- Application of new glass lens with even pressure to spread adhesive outward, avoiding air bubbles
- Curing of adhesive if necessary
In fact, this seems more straightforward and less error prone than applying adhesive tape around the lens perimeter.
I am willing to try this on my screen, but...
What I need
I cannot determine which adhesive will work, or even work best. I'm hoping that someone has a lead on a proper adhesive through experience. Obviously a DIY fix would need only a small amount, so a gallon jug wouldn't be a good option (unless for a group buy or something).
I'll post links to the resources I have found already when I reach 10 posts
Found a reasonable amount of LOCA
I found some LOCA for $30 shipped, not sure of the quantity or how many applications it will provide. I think it will take some experimentation to find the correct amount to entirely fill the void without airspace and without squeezing out the sides. Might have to apply it with the screen out of the phone frame. Also, I do have a UV flashlight but I don't know if that is sufficient to cure this stuff. I'll test it out on some microscope slides. I'll also test whether it can be taken back apart via heat after bonding.
This topic is really interesting, since I broke my GS3 gorilla glass and would like to change it by myself. A good DIY would be appreciated
mkendra said:
This topic is really interesting, since I broke my GS3 gorilla glass and would like to change it by myself. A good DIY would be appreciated
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I ordered some LOCA so we will see how it goes I guess. I'll try to take pics/video when I can.
crakarjax said:
I ordered some LOCA so we will see how it goes I guess. I'll try to take pics/video when I can.
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can you share link of supplier ? thanx
i would add few more steps to process for using these adhesives
- if OCA used, according to post from phonefreaks h t t p ://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=31321004&postcount=13 alcohol spry on glass or screen before application OCA, then alignment, then again alcohol spry on glass or screen
- vacuum application to remove air bubbles
and i would search for LOCA which cures in "shadow" area
Kancler said:
i would add few more steps to process for using these adhesives
- if OCA used, according to post from phonefreaks h t t p ://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=31321004&postcount=13 alcohol spry on glass or screen before application OCA, then alignment, then again alcohol spry on glass or screen
- vacuum application to remove air bubbles
and i would search for LOCA which cures in "shadow" area
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The link you posted is regarding a different adhesive, that is in sticker form. The adhesive I am trying out is liquid and hardens with UV light. I found some on ebay.
I bonded two microscope slides together as a test and it worked well, no bubbles. The only problem I had is that lots of adhesive leaked out the perimeter of the slides... it is going to be hard to determine the proper amount for my screen. I also need to take into account the perimeter tape adhesive if I use it but I might not even bother since the LOCA bonds pretty tight. Another setback is that the slides are really stuck! I haven't tried applying heat to break the bond yet but I have been unable to separate the slides.
On the brighter side, LOCA is nice to work with because it will not set until you want it to; if you mess up you can just try again as long as you have some adhesive.
crakarjax said:
The link you posted is regarding a different adhesive, that is in sticker form. The adhesive I am trying out is liquid and hardens with UV light. I found some on ebay.
I bonded two microscope slides together as a test and it worked well, no bubbles. The only problem I had is that lots of adhesive leaked out the perimeter of the slides... it is going to be hard to determine the proper amount for my screen. I also need to take into account the perimeter tape adhesive if I use it but I might not even bother since the LOCA bonds pretty tight. Another setback is that the slides are really stuck! I haven't tried applying heat to break the bond yet but I have been unable to separate the slides.
On the brighter side, LOCA is nice to work with because it will not set until you want it to; if you mess up you can just try again as long as you have some adhesive.
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theres some locktide LOCA dam adhesive, which has greater viscosity, its main purpose to create borders and not allow LOCA to leak, but i think double side tape would help to keep it in place.
Hope heat will help to separate, or we will get permanent glass replacement :/ and we all know how fragile glass are :/
Kancler said:
theres some locktide LOCA dam adhesive, which has greater viscosity, its main purpose to create borders and not allow LOCA to leak, but i think double side tape would help to keep it in place.
Hope heat will help to separate, or we will get permanent glass replacement :/ and we all know how fragile glass are :/
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I did see the loctite LOCA but it's really expensive and not sold in small quantities. Greater viscosity would be a plus; how do you know what the viscosity of my LOCA is though? I'll toss my slides in the toaster oven tonight and see if they come apart.
any luck on separation ?
Kancler said:
any luck on separation ?
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Not quite. I perhaps did not let the glass heat thoroughly, but I stuck it in the oven at 190 for 10 minutes and then gave it a shot. I did not use a razor blade but rather a pocket knife so that didn't help, but the adhesive did clearly give; however, the top layer of glass broke. Not a big deal but I was hoping it would be a lot easier. The layer of adhesive wasn't rock hard, and it was very very thin so a thicker layer would surely give more easily. I could clearly see that prying in the glass was causing the kind of outwardly flowing separation that I would have expected so that's encouraging. I think I'll call it good enough and cross that bridge if and when my glass breaks again. As soon as I get my metal pry tool from hong kong I'm going to give it a shot.
When assembling a new touch screen for my LG p880, is it really necessary to use new adhesive tape? I've seen some assemblage movies where there's nothing mentioned about adhesive, they just push both parts together and that's it. Apparently, the old adhesive is still sticky enough? I am wondering as I've also seen advertisements for special adhesive tape...
I don't know about your case.
The Nook Touch uses the zForce IR touch sensor.
It's all stuck together with double stick tape.
The alignment is actually pretty critical.
I've got a roll of that double stick tape for putting plastic on windows in the winter.
It looks like it would be perfect, although I'll have to trim the width.
Ok so I have unfortunately found out that the red trim around the front chips REALLY easy. I am very careful with m y phones. I haven't used a case on my last several phones and they all still look new. But I have a couple of small chips in the red trim and I have no idea how they got there. It hasn't been dropped or anything.
I have the metalized carbon fiber back and I have found the paint chips really easy, especially on the corners. I also got a ridge in one of the corners from a slight drop from my windshield mount to the car floor. I think it hit part of the driver's seat frame or something. Not really happy.
I now have it in an Encased case. It is a light-weight case/holster combo that provides decent protection to the back and sides without adding much bulk. The screen is also protected when in the holster.
PittAussie said:
I have the metalized carbon fiber back and I have found the paint chips really easy, especially on the corners. I also got a ridge in one of the corners from a slight drop from my windshield mount to the car floor. I think it hit part of the driver's seat frame or something. Not really happy.
I now have it in an Encased case. It is a light-weight case/holster combo that provides decent protection to the back and sides without adding much bulk. The screen is also protected when in the holster.
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Thanks I'll check out that brand. All the other ones I've seen for this phone are really bulky.
honestly, i want to figure out how to safely remove the red paint from my bezel. well, without removing it from the speaker grille.
Getting it for 200aud..
Can replace the glass piece for about 10 off eBay.
My question is how tight that area is in general in terms of the ip68 rating, consisting that the "glass" is just an adhesive. I.e. is the rating still intact
jewnersey said:
Getting it for 200aud..
Can replace the glass piece for about 10 off eBay.
My question is how tight that area is in general in terms of the ip68 rating, consisting that the "glass" is just an adhesive. I.e. is the rating still intact
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if you only replace the glass from the camera and if you replace it with the ORIGINAL part, then you will have the IP rating the same way, BUT...if you buy cheap glass with cheap adhesive...i didnt know how it takes the IP at same level, and how long it will take to lose the glue and maybe crack again.
Better safe than sorrow...
see this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6qfQ1TH_KBs
It's very tight. I bought one for a 3rd the price of new the glue was discolored, but the glass was otherwise ok.
Love Jerry's Videos. But he'd already removed that lens, and had an appropriate crack to help leverage up a piece of the glass. I couldn't even get a scalpel blade under the edge let alone a box cutter, I'm quite dexterous. Before I replaced mine I watched someone jam a spudger down there to get it out. Maybe my spudger wasn't thin enough but I could see the main back glass flexing while I did it so I tried something different..
I realize yours is pre-cracked, but just detailing everything I did.
What worked for me:
1) apply just enough force between the lens and the edge, you want a crack to extend outward to the edge, but avoid having dust near the actual camera lens. Saw a video of someone puncturing a hole right where the camera lens is - not smart if you like clear pictures.
2) clean all dust now!
3) take out a shard from the edge with tweezers being careful to not puncture the tape on the under side
4) heat lens then apply a cut and shaped piece of tape on top of the lens to hold in any dust when you peel.
5) place tweezers into the edge in the hole you made where the shard was, try not to put pressure on the back glass - mine was surprisingly tough, ymmv.
6) peel the edge of the under tape slowly upward try not to bend much or the glass will make a ton of dust.
7) vacuum and use compressed air around the opening.
Hope that helps.
Thanks for the comments. New glass arrives tomorrow so I'll be going through the process then. Seems pretty straightforward, but yes, probably will avoid submerging it etc just to be safe.
As far as cleaning the lens, I will use acetone (cotton balls) and compressed air. Good?
No acetone, just alcool
Just an FYI: Thin solvent liquids like alcohol will seep in the gap between the lens cover and the glass back and onto the sticky reflective tape discoloring it. I've seen it a bunch of times with the G6, the effect is worse with replacement lens covers as there isn't any adhesive on the edge.
If I was to redo this job, I'd consider using some B-7000 applied with a tiny brush around the thin edge of the lens cover to seal it. Once dry I wouldn't be concerned about cleaning with alcohol. Maybe depends how obsessive you are lol.
As always YMMV, hope the replacement goes well.
Pic shows discoloration around the edge.
https://i.imgur.com/6JB3uuc.jpg
I noticed a white light on one side of the screen wjile I was using it. It was leaking from the back of the lcd. There is nothing wrong while using it so far.
Using the OEM method be best. A picture would help.
LCD displays are vented on the sides to atmosphere. They are very susceptible to solvent poisoning; keep all solvent and vapors away from the display!
Do not use super glue or Gorilla glue. If far enough away from the LCD edges you might get away with Gorilla glue using a fan until cured. Epoxies and silicone seal same deal.
If it originally used double sided tape, use that!
blackhawk said:
Using the OEM method be best. A picture would help.
LCD displays are vented on the sides to atmosphere. They are very susceptible to solvent poisoning; keep all solvent and vapors away from the display!
Do not use super glue or Gorilla glue. If far enough away from the LCD edges you might get away with Gorilla glue using a fan until cured. Epoxies and silicone seal same deal.
If it originally used double sided tape, use that!
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Here are some pictures of how the glass/digitizer/lcd panel is separating from the rest of the frame. Based on iFixit, it would be best to use double sided tape.
Did it take a drop or get flexed?
Is the frame rail still straight?
If frame rail is still straight it can be reseated. It looks like double sided adhesive tape, inspect it to see if this is true. If so the whole panel needs to be pulled, cleaned and new tape of the same thickness reapplied. If a OEM part is available use this instead.
Surfaces must be clean and oil free. Carefully use anhydrous isopropyl alcohol to degrease and clean. Make sure none of it contacts the sides of the LCD!!! Use a fan so vapors don't build up; if poisoned it will trash the display.
Watch some tear down vids as they can be very helpful.
blackhawk said:
Did it take a drop or get flexed?
Is the frame rail still straight?
If frame rail is still straight it can be reseated. It looks like double sided adhesive tape, inspect it to see if this is true. If so the whole panel needs to be pulled, cleaned and new tape of the same thickness reapplied. If a OEM part is available use this instead.
Surfaces must be clean and oil free. Carefully use anhydrous isopropyl alcohol to degrease and clean. Make sure none of it contacts the sides of the LCD!!! Use a fan so vapors don't build up; if poisoned it will trash the display.
Watch some tear down vids as they can be very helpful.
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It's a drop but I receives this as a refurbished.
andruyd said:
It's a drop but I receives this as a refurbished.
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Check frame rail with a straight edge to see if bent. That can cause an adhesive failure.