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Hi everyone! Just wanted to share what I found out recently.
"Low light" shooting mode rocks!
It just makes so much difference when shooting in bad lighting situations. I hate shooting with the flash, but I also hate the noise that goes with shooting without flash.
Enter "low light" shooting mode.
I'm not the one to exaggerate, but the noise that was usually present in shots just disappeared when shooting in this mode (vs. shooting in normal mode). My only wish is that if there was a way for the camera to recognize a scene wherein "low light" shooting mode would be suitable and actually switch to that mode automatically. Perhaps this is a feature I miss because my previous Android phone was the Xperia arc, which had terrific automatic scene recognition.
I was wondering if someone has done a closer study of what "low light" shooting mode actually does differently from normal mode. For one, it takes a bit of loading time before the shot is captured, but the shutter speed doesn't really dramatically decrease. Also, I noticed that photos shot using the "low light" shooting mode have an "_LLS" appended in the file name. So what else is different?
I'll post comparison shots when I can.
Thoughts? Comments? Post away.
AFAIK the low light mode does some noise reduction post processing directly after the shot is taken, that's why it takes a bit longer for the picture to get saved to your library. Since the picture is taken then the noise filter is applied, the picture loses some finer details and quality.
I personally love the camera under decent light conditions, not a fan of the noise it produces in low light.
I believe low light mode takes two photos and then removes the noise between them.
Hold your phone still when using that mode and you'll get some great shots.
Sent from my Galaxy Note 2 using Tapatalk 2
I'm a fan of low light mode on this phone. Usually the shutter speed has been too slow on previous phones, but is fast enough for casual use on the n2.
Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 2
I think it obvious that the low light mode is based around simply longer shutter time and some post processing, hence the message about holding the phone still while taking a pic.
The amount of light we get in the picture with this mode is simply not possible with software processing alone.
Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 2
Definitely low light rocks on our Note Beast
Sent from my GT-N7100 using xda premium
Here is a shot I took with low light setting in my room under dim lighting condition.
Low shutter speed, high iso, and clean up with noise reduction. Im impressed they put a setting that does these things for ya.
Very cool.
Sent from my SGH-T889 using xda app-developers app
I just tested this a while ago and i must say low light shooting mode rocks!
On top is single shot mode and bottom is low light mode.
Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 2
Photo taken close to midnight using the low light camera feature :good:
This is actually one of my frustrations with this phone.
I thought that the low light mode is similar to the night mode I had in CM9 back in my old phone.
Under dim lighting conditions, photo taken via normal and low light mode are the same.
After reading some posts here, I just tried taking two pictures but on a good lighting condition.
I noticed that indeed, the quality of the photo taken in low light mode is better.
rom3l said:
I just tested this a while ago and i must say low light shooting mode rocks!
On top is single shot mode and bottom is low light mode.
Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 2
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Is that Slash?
Sorry for Off Topic.
BTW can anyone tell me what the ISO setting is during Low light mode?
jon1011 said:
This is actually one of my frustrations with this phone.
I thought that the low light mode is similar to the night mode I had in CM9 back in my old phone.
Under dim lighting conditions, photo taken via normal and low light mode are the same.
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I actually like the low light mode better than "night mode" which i rarely used (in my other camera phones). Night mode would result in blurry pics all the time and it used to be slow. In addition, the low light mode results in pics with better noise reduction than conventional night mode imo .
Dpk1 said:
I actually like the low light mode better than "night mode" which i rarely used (in my other camera phones). Night mode would result in blurry pics all the time and it used to be slow. In addition, the low light mode results in pics with better noise reduction than conventional night mode imo .
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What do you mean by "noise reduction"? I've read that a lot in this thread but I do not understand what it means.
Sorry, I'm not too deep when it comes to photography.
In night mode, it may make the picture a bit blurry but the lighting of the photo will be good.
It's like taken with a controlled flash.
jon1011 said:
What do you mean by "noise reduction"? I've read that a lot in this thread but I do not understand what it means.
Sorry, I'm not too deep when it comes to photography.
In night mode, it may make the picture a bit blurry but the lighting of the photo will be good.
It's like taken with a controlled flash.
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When you zoom in a photo on a screen to 100%, then you start to notice unwanted "tiny dots" or "grain" which (kind of) distort the whole picture. This is called the photographic/ image noise. Better the image sensor, lesser is the noise. Noise reduction is/maybe a part of image "post processing", which obviously reduces the noise output (usually at the cost of some image detail).
The night mode (in general) uses higher "ISO settings" for brighter images in dark. Higher ISO levels increase the sensitivity of sensor to light, but also increases the image noise. Hence, brighter but noisy images. Whereas, low light mode provides bright enough images with least noise (wrt note 2 camera), perhaps either by prolonging the exposure/ better noise reduction. Hope it clears up your doubts. For more info, google your query, i'm sure there is a lot of info there .
Wow didn't really have faith in this feature, thought it was same thing as setting high iso. I usually prefer high iso, +1-2 stop brightness, +flash. I'll surely try this feature after this post.
Dpk1 said:
When you zoom in a photo on a screen to 100%, then you start to notice unwanted "tiny dots" or "grain" which (kind of) distort the whole picture. This is called the photographic/ image noise. Better the image sensor, lesser is the noise. Noise reduction is/maybe a part of image "post processing", which obviously reduces the noise output (usually at the cost of some image detail).
The night mode (in general) uses higher "ISO settings" for brighter images in dark. Higher ISO levels increase the sensitivity of sensor to light, but also increases the image noise. Hence, brighter but noisy images. Whereas, low light mode provides bright enough images with least noise (wrt note 2 camera), perhaps either by prolonging the exposure/ better noise reduction. Hope it clears up your doubts. For more info, google your query, i'm sure there is a lot of info there .
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Thank you for the explanation. I seem to get it now.
But still, when I take pictures in 'Low light' mode in a dim light setting, it doesn't make the photo "bright enough" as you have said.
jon1011 said:
Thank you for the explanation. I seem to get it now.
But still, when I take pictures in 'Low light' mode in a dim light setting, it doesn't make the photo "bright enough" as you have said.
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Well of course there are limitations as to how dark a setting the camera will still pick up light, but in general the low light mode should produce better pictures where the standard mode is too dark.
Sent from my GT-N7100 using xda app-developers app
D3_ said:
Well of course there are limitations as to how dark a setting the camera will still pick up light, but in general the low light mode should produce better pictures where the standard mode is too dark.
Sent from my GT-N7100 using xda app-developers app
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Can't see much of it.
Anyway, happy new year to all!
Hello everyone!
As promised, here are the comparison shots for normal "single shot" mode and "low light" mode. I have uploaded these original picture files as attachments. I think it will be easy to distinguish which one is the normal shot and which one is shot using low light. (These are Dropbox Camera Upload sync files, so the "LLS" moniker disappears. Sorry for that.)
Cheers!
Okay to elaborate, with my Note2 I can take indoor lowlight pics pretty well of my dog wagging his tail.
If I try and take pics of him same setting in low light with my Note3, usually there is blur and the shots are useless.
I'm just a point and click guy, usually on auto my Note2 gives ok to great shots. Is there a secret to getting them with the Note 3 in low light? Ois would help as well Samsung.
Have you tried with a cat?
Or turkeys. I've had amazing luck with turkeys.
All joking aside... I am not impressed with the Note 3 camera at all! I NEVER thought I would use Camera Zoom FX on a Touchwiz ROM, but that's where I'm at right now. The camera on the Note 2 is MUCH better to me. Maybe I just need to practice more and play with settings.
You have the auto stabilization enabled, right? Because the "night" mode is kind of baked into that now.
Kiahnlliya said:
Have you tried with a cat?
Or turkeys. I've had amazing luck with turkeys.
All joking aside... I am not impressed with the Note 3 camera at all! I NEVER thought I would use Camera Zoom FX on a Touchwiz ROM, but that's where I'm at right now. The camera on the Note 2 is MUCH better to me. Maybe I just need to practice more and play with settings.
You have the auto stabilization enabled, right? Because the "night" mode is kind of baked into that now.
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I hear you. Your reply made me laugh! Thing is, it's even worse with the auto stabilisation enabled , especially on animated objects such as kids playing or the dog lol. There's a shutter lag and the pic becomes a blurred waste of time.
The camera on my Note 3 is next to useless in artifical or low light. My Note 2 blows it away camera and audio wise. Samsung drop the hype sort your sh*t out. Or Note 3 is my last decide.
Mine comes fine with low light n flash.
Sent from Note 3 (The beauty & beast)
sohebq said:
Mine comes fine with low light n flash.
Sent from Note 3 (The beauty & beast)
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Yes, with flash and inanimate objects I have no issues with my camera. But for anything moving in low light forget it . At least that's my experience.
I just hope the camera will get better with firmware updates. It's really pretty bad right now. Winter is coming, the days are getting shorter and darker and all my low light photos are going to look terrible.
Kiahnlliya said:
I just hope the camera will get better with firmware updates. It's really pretty bad right now. Winter is coming, the days are getting shorter and darker and all my low light photos are going to look terrible.
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Yeah . I really like my N3 screen and the brightness , but I think I'm going back to my Note 2 as a daily driver for now. Shall await further knox developments and also see what firmware updates yield. Cos as you say winter is around the corner, many users will be cussing low light performance then and Samsung may listen and update.
I'm curious, but did you try the Sports mode?
KanjiMan's SM-N900W8 Indoor w Low Light Settings:
I find these settings work well when the situation is indoors with low light: (haven't tested on moving objects)
Auto Mode (I find any other mode flash is forced off, you need flash for low light)
Photo size @ 4128x2322 16:9
Face Detection - Off
Metering - Center Weight
ISO - change your Iso to personal taste, 800 or 400 works well, but it depends how dark it is in the shooting area. (The lower the ISO the darker the final photo)
Smart Stabilization OFF (yes OFF)
White Balance - Auto
Exposure Value - 0
Flash - ON
I get blurring on any thing/one that moves slightly. I've tried all settings and get crap pictures with all of them. Appart from the shutter lag on s4 I've never had a galaxy phone with such poor camera. photos of anything but inanimate objects ALWAYS blur in medium/low light, unless up very close.
I'm calling samsung today to file warranty claim for this and the lines/interference when shooting videos.
IncidendIy do you get them too?
Sent from my SM-N9005 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
Why does my s5's camera suck without flash? It gets so grainy! And the front camera is also ****, my S3 takes way better pictures! Anyone else have this problem?
The S5 flash seems close to half the power of the S3 so obviously that makes a huge difference in low light, So this more than cancels out the S5s improved low light ability in the sensor.
Your camera has a problem. Clean the lens carefully and if it does not help, try to compare with another S5.
Cleaned it, Still same.. It doesn't focus as much too..
Low light shots without flash are terrible, well lit shots are very good though. I think your camera is normal.
homer285 said:
Low light shots without flash are terrible, well lit shots are very good though. I think your camera is normal.
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I think so too. But what really annoys me is when the camera is on auto mode, you snap a picture in "sort of" low light, and the freakin "hold the camera stable until picture is takenÉ message stays on screen for like 15-20 seconds, How annoying is that? Other S phones never had that.
That second pic is normal for the S5 camera unfortunately in low light it not very good, you need to have a very steady hand and turn on image stabilization to get any kind of decent shot, or just use the flash if you intend to do any close up shots in low light.
As for the front camera I've seen worst, the best I've seen to date is from the iPhone 5S, no matter what lighting conditions are like it always gives a great image from the front camera.
Tbh i do find the S5 camera abit hit & miss in both picture and video, if the conditions are right then images are some of the best you see from a smartphone, with only the Nokia 1020 being the exception , but as soon as the light becomes slightly less than ideal it's starts to struggle, where the other's will do a better job.
I think Samsung have finally realized this, so when the Note 4 arrives it will come with a now rumoured new 12mp Sony Sensor with OIS & a F2.0 lens which should in theory give it much better performance in low light, and that being the case I will buy the Note 4 on launch come September.
try to turn on stabilization and hdr
After having used a Lumia Icon for two weeks, and having returned it during my "upgrade" window, it's hard to not compare the camera quality. My S5 performs very well outside in well lit scenarios, but most cameras do. I too have noticed the low light/indoor lightning suckage, especially compared to the Icon. I don't mind a photo being a little dark (that can be auto fixed with image software), but it's incredibly frustrating getting out of focus shots more often than not just because of a little less than optimal lighting situation (not talking about night shots). I leave HDR mode on full time now, and it has improved the quality/consistency some. I only use image stabilization in low light situations when I know there won't be a lot of movement involved. All of the pictures I take are through the built in camera app. I haven't ventured to other camera apps yet, but I figure it wouldn't make a huge difference.
Ultimately, I decided on functionality (android) over camera quality as I don't take pictures on a day to day basis to justify the lack of apps on the 8 ecosystem. I still enjoy my phone's use in my day to day though.
The camera is not the best, it takes several seconds to take a pic sometimes, which easily becomes blurry and out of focus... I wanna take pic not a movie, this hold still thing really annoy you after a while..
polish_pat said:
I think so too. But what really annoys me is when the camera is on auto mode, you snap a picture in "sort of" low light, and the freakin "hold the camera stable until picture is takenÉ message stays on screen for like 15-20 seconds, How annoying is that? Other S phones never had that.
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Turn off image stabilisation if you don't need it and that problem will be fixed. It's the image stabilisation waiting for you to stop moving the phone that is causing the delays.
Also, back on main topic... try manually changing the
ISO settings to see if high value is causing your issues. High ISO = noisy low light pic.
kgyirhj said:
The camera is not the best, it takes several seconds to take a pic sometimes, which easily becomes blurry and out of focus... I wanna take pic not a movie, this hold still thing really annoy you after a while..
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Had a little bit of free-time so decided to do a simple test. What differences does the different camera modes provide in Low-Light?
Here is the album for the pictures: https://goo.gl/photos/iFc9Keoh9um1beks5
All shots were handheld, 8MP 16:9, landscape orientation. Unfortunately, I don't really have a DSLR sample for comparison but you can take my word that there wasn't much light (among the shots, SA and Handheld Twilight are closest to how dark the scene actually was but in reality, it was still a bit darker). On to the analysis:
Superior Auto - Night-Scene detected, NO tripod icon Even though it selected Night-Scene, it still seemed to select a rather high-ISO in this case, making it quite useless. How do you get the Tripod icon to appear when handheld? Do you have any tips for that or how long I have to wait for it to appear?
Manual Mode (ISO Auto, Metering Multi, Single Auto-Focus) - based on many observations, ISO in Manual mode generally is 1/2 of the ISO that is selected for Superior Auto. Most of the time I shoot stuff in this setting. Curiously, did anybody notice that the "Image Stabilizer" option disappeared?
Night Portrait - based on observations, seems to select a balance of the lowest ISO it could get with the slowest shutter-speed it can have to have a balanced exposure of the scene WITHOUT motion blur. This in contrast to the Night Scene mode.
Night Scene - based on observations, seems to prioritize getting the lowest ISO it can and slowest shutter-speed to get the best exposure BUT the main difference with Night Portrait is it does not care about motion blur! And yes, the shutter speed it selected was almost 1 sec but I have to be honest, it really took me quite a few tries to get that clear a shot without motion blur. You might also notice some wonky focus on the right-side.
Handheld Twilight - not really sure what this does but to me seems to perform like HDR? Takes a couple of pics then stitches them together to preserve detail? If you compare to the Superior Auto shot, it seems to have more detail in comparison (e.g. the frame with etched words).
Is there a best scene for shooting? I think it would depend on what you want to prioritize. For me, I would probably leave it in Manual / Night Portrait for general shooting and put it in Night-Scene mode for landscape shots. Lack of OIS is sad but not a deal-breaker for me, just have to be more patient and practice having steady hands to get that good shot.
Hope this have helped you and please feel free to add any information as needed!
Generally in most indoor scenarios, putting the camera manually into Night Portrait produces the best results - especially with flash. If you can get Superior Auto to bring up Tripod mode in Night scene, this is better but without tripod you're better off with Night Portrait, by en large (though Superior Auto has surprised me, on occasion - I'd love to recommend it but it's so dang hit-and-miss: sometimes it'll do better, sometimes worse. It's very inconsistent indoors).
Outdoors, if you can get Superior Auto showing Night Scene, snap away. If it spot meters to the brightest point, all the better. If you can get that tripod symbol up, you're really in business and this'll really do the job well.
Oddly, outdoors in low light, I've found Night Scene on manual to be just too damn tricky to get a shot without motion blur. On SA, it uses some form of stabilisation to help. IF you can get Manual Night Scene to work, it's marginally better than the Superior Auto equivalent but, in a complete reverse of the indoor results I get, you're best using Superior Auto's night modes outside. Weird.
BUT Don't use Superior Auto at night without a mode selected! It's screws everything up. The Low Light mode can be good in extreme darkness but if the lighting is moderate, sometimes Manual on automatic settings produces the cleaner image. If you've time to do it, drop the ISO on Manual to the lowest it can be while still exposing the scene correctly, if you're in a reasonably lit but imperfect area, like a streetlit housing estate, etc.
One of these days Sony will produce a camera that you can just point and shoot. One day.
PS: I've always found Handheld Twilight to be generally useless.
Timaustin2000 said:
Generally in most indoor scenarios, putting the camera manually into Night Portrait produces the best results - especially with flash. If you can get Superior Auto to bring up Tripod mode in Night scene, this is better but without tripod you're better off with Night Portrait, by en large (though Superior Auto has surprised me, on occasion - I'd love to recommend it but it's so dang hit-and-miss: sometimes it'll do better, sometimes worse. It's very inconsistent indoors).
Outdoors, if you can get Superior Auto showing Night Scene, snap away. If it spot meters to the brightest point, all the better. If you can get that tripod symbol up, you're really in business and this'll really do the job well.
Oddly, outdoors in low light, I've found Night Scene on manual to be just too damn tricky to get a shot without motion blur. On SA, it uses some form of stabilisation to help. IF you can get Manual Night Scene to work, it's marginally better than the Superior Auto equivalent but, in a complete reverse of the indoor results I get, you're best using Superior Auto's night modes outside. Weird.
BUT Don't use Superior Auto at night without a mode selected! It's screws everything up. The Low Light mode can be good in extreme darkness but if the lighting is moderate, sometimes Manual on automatic settings produces the cleaner image. If you've time to do it, drop the ISO on Manual to the lowest it can be while still exposing the scene correctly, if you're in a reasonably lit but imperfect area, like a streetlit housing estate, etc.
One of these days Sony will produce a camera that you can just point and shoot. One day.
PS: I've always found Handheld Twilight to be generally useless.
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Thanks for the tips I haven't yet encountered the tripod icon in Superior Auto mode except when I placed my Z5 on the table.. But handheld seems to be just impossible. Any tips to do it in handheld, aside from keeping my arms steady? I can keep my arms steady in manual Night Scene. How long do I have to wait to make it appear / what triggers does it look for based on your experience?
bloodfire1004 said:
Thanks for the tips I haven't yet encountered the tripod icon in Superior Auto mode except when I placed my Z5 on the table.. But handheld seems to be just impossible. Any tips to do it in handheld, aside from keeping my arms steady? I can keep my arms steady in manual Night Scene. How long do I have to wait to make it appear / what triggers does it look for based on your experience?
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I wish I could tell you, lol. Tuck your elbows in against your ribs - that helps. If you can, lean your elbows on a arm rest or lean against a wall. You just need to be as steady as possible but it's tricky to do.
One tip; half pressing the camera key re-sets Superior Auto when released. If you do this a few times, it means that the mode is more active in looking for changes in exposure and behaviour and may help it come up quicker.
Once it does come up, half press and hold it and it should lock the mode so that you can find your focal point and take the shot.
Hope this helps.
I would add from myself the best results especially in detail are available throght Maual Mode 8mpx.
The autofocus is fast, low manual ISO and the usage of white balance gives really detailed pics even in low light.
It's also good to use tap-to-focus and consciously use light metering.
---------- Post added at 04:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:26 PM ----------
bloodfire1004 said:
Thanks for the tips I haven't yet encountered the tripod icon in Superior Auto mode except when I placed my Z5 on the table.. But handheld seems to be just impossible. Any tips to do it in handheld, aside from keeping my arms steady? I can keep my arms steady in manual Night Scene. How long do I have to wait to make it appear / what triggers does it look for based on your experience?
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Tripod appears actually only when the phone is set on a completely stable surface/stand.
Otherwise the phone detects any movement. Which is logical.
Thanks both for the helpful tips! Can't wait to try out and do my best to practice my 'tripod mode' Btw, what metering do you leave your phone at?
I've found to get tripod to appear reliably, shoot either while sitting or leaning/braced on something. I found it was the body swaying, and not the hands, that was causing most of the movement for me. If the tripod icon does not at first appear, take an initial shot in SA (without tripod icon), and it should then appear for the next shot.
Twilight mode means taking around 6 photos and interpolate the data between them all to create one final image. Samples are taken at high ISO and relatively fast shutter speed which it tries to keep fixed while changing ISO between samples. This results in a photo that has less noise, less chroma and preserves color and detail. Anti motionblur mode works similarly except parts of the samples with no blur are kept of each sample and then stitched together for final output.
EQ2000 said:
Twilight mode means taking around 6 photos and interpolate the data between them all to create one final image. Samples are taken at high ISO and relatively fast shutter speed which it tries to keep fixed while changing ISO between samples. This results in a photo that has less noise, less chroma and preserves color and detail. Anti motionblur mode works similarly except parts of the samples with no blur are kept of each sample and then stitched together for final output.
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Wow didn't know that before. Might be interesting to have a play around with those settings when I get the chance!
EQ2000 said:
Twilight mode means taking around 6 photos and interpolate the data between them all to create one final image. Samples are taken at high ISO and relatively fast shutter speed which it tries to keep fixed while changing ISO between samples. This results in a photo that has less noise, less chroma and preserves color and detail. Anti motionblur mode works similarly except parts of the samples with no blur are kept of each sample and then stitched together for final output.
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Interesting,.. but I've never once managed to get it to produce usable results.
i keep testing different settings in low light conditions (manual 8 mp and 20 mp and s. auto 8 mp and 20 mp) and manual 20 mp keeps winning for me. color reproduction is just the best.
i don't see why everybody seems so happy with s. auto 8 mp
Barthlon said:
i keep testing different settings in low light conditions (manual 8 mp and 20 mp and s. auto 8 mp and 20 mp) and manual 20 mp keeps winning for me. color reproduction is just the best.
i don't see why everybody seems so happy with s. auto 8 mp
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I am totally for Manual 8mpx.
Just because in real low light it's more crisp than 23mpx.
Other than that Manual 23mpx is great.
I can bring up the tripod quite consistently after the first shot (it keeps showing all those running, walking icons first time due to almost unavoidable initial motions).. Thanks to some helpful tips here, I'll have to try to get it up before the first shot.
One off-topic tip that could be pretty convenient. I'm pretty sure most of the Xperia shooters already know this. I leave the camera in my fav. manual mode (basically favorite ISO/res. & everything else set to auto or you could just pick a scene mode). I launch the camera using the awesome shutter button to get to auto mode directly. I tap the icon to launch the camera only when I need to get directly to my favorite manual 'preset'.
If we lock the iso as 200 in manual mode, I guess it is like a tripod mode, because the camera will adjust the shutter speed to match the iso , and it takes good pics in most circumstances.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/albums/72157665297843674
I found them really ugly for the quality. It is only me or they are actually ugly. Also video are recorded in 1080P and quality really suck hard and sound is ugly. Something i did wrong?
All was at default settings.
low light conserts are one of the hardest things to shoot (moving objekts,moving lights etc) think the S7 did well here actually.
Try an iphone instead...
When taking photos in low light you need to stay steady for a longer time. Also, do not use hdr and flash on auto - use it on or off. Auto will reduce the quality of photo
Thanks for the tips..damn my hdr was on and it was really brutal so taking a stable picture was hard.
For a low light situation they look great. Ok the focus is a bit off but the longer shutter times will always have that effect.
Turn off video stabilisation(EIS) in setting when recording video especially when recording low light video because it do a bad job and make video more shaky and blurry(at least for me). You still have OIS working since it's physical hardware stabilization.
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
They're actually pretty good for a cell phone. Yeah HDR is going to be an issue because of the shutter speeds involved in low light. These have the typical over-sharpening of Samsung cameras but not bad at all given the circumstances. Also... the high SPL levels for a metal show are going to be seriously hard to capture on a phone, the mic preamp inside the phone is easily overloaded. Turn HDR off, turn the flash off, find a way to get a steady shot... a monopod is great for this if they'll allow it into the venue, if not bracing against a wall, post, or rail will certainly help. Also be prepared to toss out 19 of 20 shots when you're doing concert photography. Concert photography isn't easy even with a DSLR the super small sensors in phones make it all that much more difficult.
You can enable manual mode on the camera and force the shutter speed to 1/100-1/200 or faster this might lower the brightness of the photos but it will help to stop the motion that you'll usually find in the performers.
You can also set it to the largest aperture (F1.7) in manual mode but keep in mind that this will make the field of focus very small, this would be good for artsy shots of the guitarist's hands on the instrument or just the singers face, not so good for full stage shots.
Another thing to try is to enable the RAW capture of the phone then do some post processing on the most in-focus of your images it will almost always be better than the decisions the phone itself is making.
All in all though, not as bad as you think.
thanks for all that tips, going to another show soon and i will do all these trick! i'll try to be the the first row instead of the second one to make great capture!