Database Users

[Q] What to do with an Archos 70IT with dead screen

Hi all,
I have an Archos 70IT but, with an accident, the screen broke up, and now i wan't to know if I can do something with my Archos, like installing Linux on it, making a server or whatever else than letting it on the ground.
Thanks for your answer

eagleofdeath13 said:
Hi all,
I have an Archos 70IT but, with an accident, the screen broke up, and now i wan't to know if I can do something with my Archos, like installing Linux on it, making a server or whatever else than letting it on the ground.
Thanks for your answer
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
if it still runs then great - but how can you configure it to enable ssh, some kind of a share, or even usb access, without a screen?
can you use it by plugging an hdmi monitor to it? ( don' tknow if your model has hdmi out)

First of all thanks to reply ^^
Yes it still run (or it seems to run ^^) and the "how?" is the the question that i ask ^^
I will try to plug it to an HDMI monitor but I think it will not work (to make the external screen work you have to use a button, that i can't use without screen).
The only thing i've done is going in recovery and use the flash disk with my compute. If only we could make our self .aos i could make a one that accept SSH access, and then the work will be done, but we can't

hmmm.... that's a tricky one then.
Without trying to sound negative, all I can think of is to get another one, take both of them apart to get access to the screen connectors, attach working screen to yours and do whatever programming changes are needed so that when you power it on you can access it or vnc control it from another machine by default without having to touch anything. then put the other one together again and return it to the store or give it back to your generous friend who let you borrow it for the weekend
and no - I'm not that generous ;-)
There may be some other brilliant method but I certainly don't know of it in standard android.

I have bought another one (i was addicted to this thing ^^) but ... open it wil break the garanty so i'm not sure. Maybe i will wait some time before doing this (or wait another idea) but thanks, it's a really good idea ^^

If you can see anything on the screen you can get a wireless keyboard mouse combo to use the device. If you can't see anything you might have a pretty hard time and a lot of guess work flashing a custom kernel with SSH enabled by default. Does angstrom have SSH enabled?
Also not really android dev...
Sent from my A101IT using Tapatalk

Nothing visible on the screen, only white :S And for Angström I don't know.
(Could someone replace this subject on the right place!)

eagleofdeath13 said:
I have bought another one (i was addicted to this thing ^^) but ... open it wil break the garanty so i'm not sure. Maybe i will wait some time before doing this (or wait another idea) but thanks, it's a really good idea ^^
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cool, I agree about the warranty issue if you own the second 101 yourself.
My suggestions were slightly illegal (buy then return to store "I don't want it after all so would like a refund" LoL) or just not very nice ("thanks, I liked borrowing that over the weekend to play games" LoL).
Wait as long as possible in case someone more clever can help you out.
But I'm glad that my ideas weren't completely crazy anyhow
Cheers,
Don

But i'm also afraid to break something ^^

eagleofdeath13 said:
But i'm also afraid to break something ^^
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
that would stop me from doing it also. I was hoping you were more confident working insde tiny electronic devices than I am.

d31b0y said:
If you can see anything on the screen you can get a wireless keyboard mouse combo to use the device. If you can't see anything you might have a pretty hard time and a lot of guess work flashing a custom kernel with SSH enabled by default. Does angstrom have SSH enabled?
Also not really android dev...
Sent from my A101IT using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm, seems like you could flash it with a cooked Uruk configured how you wanted it so that it would work with ssh/vnc from a straight boot. I'm trying to think of the steps that would be involved and if you would need a working screen.
If you knew the exact location of the menu items on the Uruk install you could do it without the screen (press vol down twice, then enter; next step press vol once, enter, etc - these are just examples, obviously). I think Uruk comes with ssh enabled by default. I could be wrong or missing a key step you can't do blindly, just thinking out loud here.

I've never used UrukDroid, but if someone here knows the steps it would be very, very nice! Thanks in advance and Thanks for your help.

Pull apart the broken one and see what the make/model of the screen is and then see if you can buy a new screen.
You could also contact Archos and buy a screen from them.

Thanks, yes I think i'll try to do that ^^

Same problem ...
Broke my screen too!
I'm trying this route ... EBAY - cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230598268646
Cheaper but you have to use Western-Union: item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=9004146795
I dropped the http : //. I'm new to the forum and they do not let new members post links. I assure all that I have no connection to either link. In fact, I'm still waiting for my purchase from EBAY (it's only been a week or so from over-seas). I obtained the second link from forum(.)archosfans(.)com and had contact with them - they wanted $77 USD plus shipping and payment via WesternUnion. I chose EBAY because I felt I had more financial protection.

USB mounting - anyone else annoyed?

Just thinking if it was just me or if anyone else annoyed by the sheer number of button clicks required to mount your phone as a USB mass storage device....
First you plug it in...then you get the "Charging/USB Mount/USB Tether" message, choosing one gives you the mount as USB to turn on.....then another for a confirmation....
Don't you think it should just be a single button click?
Also is USB SDCard transfer speeds really slow for everyone else (versus the pulling the card out and putting it in a card reader).
I'm getting 100-500KB/sec versus 3-6 MB/second write speeds when I use the USB mass storage support.

Be thankful yours works. I have to do a battery pull and reboot to get mine to go into mass storage

Jedi2155 said:
Just thinking if it was just me or if anyone else annoyed by the sheer number of button clicks required to mount your phone as a USB mass storage device....
First you plug it in...then you get the "Charging/USB Mount/USB Tether" message, choosing one gives you the mount as USB to turn on.....then another for a confirmation....
Don't you think it should just be a single button click?
Also is USB SDCard transfer speeds really slow for everyone else (versus the pulling the card out and putting it in a card reader).
I'm getting 100-500KB/sec versus 3-6 MB/second write speeds when I use the USB mass storage support.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My aren't we spoiled? Is tapping your finger really that difficult for you?
Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk

Jedi2155 said:
Just thinking if it was just me or if anyone else annoyed by the sheer number of button clicks required to mount your phone as a USB mass storage device....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
One of the very few things I miss about my old Windows phone was how easy docking was and how much you could do with the phone when it was docked.
And I also agree with the second poster, because these Samsung drivers are so flaky that sometimes my phone is recognized, sometimes not. Sometimes I get a popup saying it's connected at USB 1.1. speeds, sometimes it requires a phone and/or computer reboot to get it recognized and on a couple of occasions it has required me to reinstall the drivers.

I don't mind the number of clicks at all...I just wish it would work. For some odd reason it doesn't work for me anymore, frustrating. It doesn't recognize the device ( no, it's not the cable as it has worked on another computer with the same OS using the same cable...I've also done driver re-installs, etc.)

Well in di18 all you had to do was plug in ur cable and when the samsung notification thing popped up you just hit usb mode and it was connected. Now you have to do that, then hit the mount again for it to go and it takes forever. Its annoying but hey what are you gonna do?
Sent from my SPH-D700 using XDA App

InhumanElmo said:
Well in di18 all you had to do was plug in ur cable and when the samsung notification thing popped up you just hit usb mode and it was connected. Now you have to do that, then hit the mount again for it to go and it takes forever. Its annoying but hey what are you gonna do?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Probably some asshole sued saying that they had screwed their sd card and it was all samsungs fault. If you think I jest, do some research about corporate lawsuits.
Sent from Bonsai 7.0.3

Create a shortcut on your homescreen as follows:
Shortcut-> Activities-> Settings->USB Settings
press it, and select the default action you'd like when plugging in USB.
Eliminates all interaction on Eclair. Eliminates the charge/storage/tether selection on Froyo.
Sent from my mind using telepathitalk

Back when I used winamp, it had an automount option. Haven't tried it since they added the extra step though in froyo.
Sent from my SPH-D700 using XDA App

Jedi2155 said:
Also is USB SDCard transfer speeds really slow for everyone else (versus the pulling the card out and putting it in a card reader).
I'm getting 100-500KB/sec versus 3-6 MB/second write speeds when I use the USB mass storage support.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The # of clicks doesn't bother me, but I'm with you on the slow USB speeds. I end up always pulling it and putting it in a card reader too.

Let me get this straight. Sliding the banner down and tapping twice is too much work?
Sent from my SPH-D700 using XDA App

somedude0608 said:
Let me get this straight. Sliding the banner down and tapping twice is too much work?
Sent from my SPH-D700 using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's what im saying lol. Is this what smartphones have done to us?
-uncut and uncensored from my Samsung Epic 4G

Jedi2155 said:
Just thinking if it was just me or if anyone else annoyed by the sheer number of button clicks required to mount your phone as a USB mass storage device....
First you plug it in...then you get the "Charging/USB Mount/USB Tether" message, choosing one gives you the mount as USB to turn on.....then another for a confirmation....
Don't you think it should just be a single button click?
Also is USB SDCard transfer speeds really slow for everyone else (versus the pulling the card out and putting it in a card reader).
I'm getting 100-500KB/sec versus 3-6 MB/second write speeds when I use the USB mass storage support.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ugh god I hate it

secorrales said:
I don't mind the number of clicks at all...I just wish it would work. For some odd reason it doesn't work for me anymore, frustrating. It doesn't recognize the device ( no, it's not the cable as it has worked on another computer with the same OS using the same cable...I've also done driver re-installs, etc.)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It can absolutely be the cable. I had the same problem. It started with my laptop not recognizing the phone, but my desktop and my wife's laptop were fine. Then slowly the other two computers began to not to recognize the phone anymore. Finally, I got fed up and ordered a nice cable for a couple bucks from amazon and it went back to working perfectly everywhere. The original cable still doesn't work in my laptop and works 1 out of every 50 tries on my desktop. That is proof positive that the cable can be the issue and may even cause the phone to work on some computers but not others.

I hate it too!
.....and not because I am LAZY or SPOILED....
I hate it because it is COUNTER-FUGGIN-INTUITIVE....How many confirmations are needed before we actually get to DO what we want to do?
I guess some people in this thread would mind starting their cars with a crank handle either....LOL. Or maybe they GET UP and walk across the room to change the channel on their TV.....
Its the 21st Century! It should not be that hard to mount an SD card.

BigBrotherMotown said:
.....and not because I am LAZY or SPOILED....
I hate it because it is COUNTER-FUGGIN-INTUITIVE....How many confirmations are needed before we actually get to DO what we want to do?
I guess some people in this thread would mind starting their cars with a crank handle either....LOL. Or maybe they GET UP and walk across the room to change the channel on their TV.....
Its the 21st Century! It should not be that hard to mount an SD card.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It takes 2 clicks instead of 1 to mount the sdcard. Are you seriously comparing that to starting a car with a hand crank? If you really want a decent car analogy then lets compare it to starting a manual car by having to press the clutch and then turn the key. This isn't done to waste 2 seconds of your time, it's done because they want to make sure the car wont move and cause some damage. Is it really so bad that samsung wants to double check that you actually intended to mount the sdcard.

richse said:
It takes 2 clicks instead of 1 to mount the sdcard. Are you seriously comparing that to starting a car with a hand crank? If you really want a decent car analogy then lets compare it to starting a manual car by having to press the clutch and then turn the key. This isn't done to waste 2 seconds of your time, it's done because they want to make sure the car wont move and cause some damage. Is it really so bad that samsung wants to double check that you actually intended to mount the sdcard.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If I plug my phone up to a PC, that should be the FIRST indication that I might want to mount....then the choice list pops up with options to Charge, use as mass storage or tether....if I select MASS STORAGE, how much MORE sure do they need to be?

BigBrotherMotown said:
If I plug my phone up to a PC, that should be the FIRST indication that I might want to mount....then the choice list pops up with options to Charge, use as mass storage or tether....if I select MASS STORAGE, how much MORE sure do they need to be?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, the second confirmation is just to let you know that any applications installed to memory card can not be run while in mass storage mode. It's a 2.2 thing. If you have a number to give google a call so we can get it changed let me know. I don't care for the second click either.

BigBrotherMotown said:
If I plug my phone up to a PC, that should be the FIRST indication that I might want to mount....then the choice list pops up with options to Charge, use as mass storage or tether....if I select MASS STORAGE, how much MORE sure do they need to be?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why don't you just turn USB debugging on? That way it's one less click and you can save money on ice for your sore thumb?
-uncut and uncensored from my Samsung Epic 4G

somedude0608 said:
Let me get this straight. Sliding the banner down and tapping twice is too much work?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should see if Microsoft is hiring.

Archos 101 - USB Dead - affected by Turbomode?

Hey guys,
sadly i have to mention - my external USB port also just died...
After contacting archos they told me to reset the revice completely and reinstall - but it didn't help.
As i dont have a recipe anymore - i can't send it in to fix
Well anyway - I never had problems with the device or the USB - but recently I switched my device to settings->deviceinfo->energy...->turbomode the 1st time.
Beside it's draining battery like hell now even with just being idle (suspended) it crashed 1 day ago - having LCD backlight on but showing a black screen (btw my usb keyboard was plugged in meanwhile and the charging-cable was also plugged in).
Next start the USB port didn't react to anything anymore...
(keyboard-lights just turn on shortly (<1s) on plug in and thats all)
(lsusb shows just the 3 default entries: 2 hsot controlers + touchscreen id)
So i assume its dead...
Anyway - after the shock I tried to figure out what I changed the past days an all I can remeber was the turbomode... did anyone make the same experience perhaps?
Eventualy we can figure out the acutal problem of dying USB ports... (if they are not just dieing randomly...)
I searched the internet alot regarding this problem:
Some ppl say its software affected - but i can't really believe since the reset should help obviously... (unless its something deeper in firmware...)
Also the fact that anyone who send in his/her device recieved another device after speaks for some hadware failure...
On the other hand there are 2 host controllers on our archos device (1 for the touchscreen as it seems) and the other 1 for external USB... why is just 1 of em dying all the time?

I had my first unit replaced because the USB was dead after a few months, Board v6; the replacement was a v5 and the USB lived hardly 2 months, the died, too... I did not do anything particular that should have caused this; it really seems it is a weakness in the hardware design; Archos has never admitted that, always suggesting fixes that never worked for anyone and saying, they wouldn't know this is a common problem... I am not the only one having two devices in a row with that problem; I have given up on my USB now and also given up on Archos due to their response on this. Also FW-Updates seem to add more problems than fixes for months now and I downgraded to 2.1.08 recently to get a device that at least works smoothly with whats left... If iPad-owners can live without USB so can I, I suppose... There is always Dropbox, and several tools for filetransfer via WiFi, and the SD-Card-Slot to substitute for a USB-Drive etc. (For my next tablet I might even wait and see, what Windows 8 brings, could become interesting...) Archos as a manufacturer of Tablets has become a no-go for me after this experience. I don't like being lied to, if they made a mistake and admit it, I could trust that the next generation might be better, but like this I would presume to be lied to again so trust in the brand is gone even if they start making it better...

voom said:
I had my first unit replaced because the USB was dead after a few months, Board v6; the replacement was a v5 and the USB lived hardly 2 months, the died, too...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Got a v6 too, also replaced by a v5 which lasted at least over a half a year or something. ****ty stuff, srsly

Same here, usb port stopped working after about a year. Not that it mattered - it was useless, only a few usb devices would work correctly. I transfer all my files to the device using the microsd card now. I don't use the tablet very often but I'm very disappointed on Archos. And this isn't my only problem. It was supposed to support HD video playback (even bought the plugins - something which others offer for free) but only a few MKVs will play without stutter.
They won't even bother updating the console with android 2.3!
This is why companies close these days..

@FrEcP - if you registered your device when you 1st got it, and assuming it is still within it's warranty period, you should not need a receipt.
regarding the comments on video playback by other posters - the gen 8 Archos devices have the best video playback support inc HD bar all but the very latest high powered devices, and the plugin is not even required to enable any of the HD formats - it's for mpeg2 (dvd) and AC3 audio only. Providing the files are within the devices specification re resolution and profile, it plays pretty much anything asked of it.

Hi chulri, thx for your root - now that i downgraded to 2.1.08 via SDE anyway, I took the one simple step left to apply your permanent root - and could thus deactivate the daos.apk etc.
As for video, I noticed that 720p HD works perfectly with the Archos-Videoplayer but 1080 plays more like slow motion... 1080 I tried was a MOV or WMV though, not sure, and if I recode stuff for general use I convert anything to 720p MP4 264 with AAC Audio - resulting in up to half the size for similar quality-settings (720 to 720) and of course more significantly smaller going from 1080 to 720. What would be left to try is converting the "slomo"-1080 wmvs to 1080 mp4 264 and see how the 101 handles that... 1080 on the 101 is quite pointless anyway unless playing back via hdmi...

You don't have to try that, as it will not work.
The Archos is using the gpu for videodecoding and that can't handle 1080p/i so softwaredecoding is used.
And for all the people out there that still don't get it, Archos advertises [email protected] with a max of 5Mbs and not [email protected] 5 ( which is used in Animes these days).

fzelle said:
And for all the people out there that still don't get it, Archos advertises [email protected] with a max of 5Mbs and not [email protected] 5 ( which is used in Animes these days).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Advertise it where? I see no such thing on the box, in the instructions leaflet nor I've seen anything like that in any of the ads or information in their web site (at least there wasn't when I bought the tablet). The only reason people know of these limitations is because there were people disappointed of the HD capabilities of the device and started asking Archos support questions about it!! Not to mention that "supports the widest range of music and video formats up to 720p HD video" as it mentions on the box couldn't have been any further from the truth since for mkv (ac3) playback you have to pay for the plugins to even get the 3.1 profile support you've mentioned! "Supports a limited range of music and video formats and you have to pay for a few more" would have been truer..
Michael

I fail to see what this has to do with "Archos 101 - USB Dead - affected by Turbomode" which is the title of this thread...

@michpan:
http://www.archos.com/products/ta/archos_70it/specs.html?country=gb&lang=en
Read for yourself

Hi FrEcP!
FrEcP said:
Next start the USB port didn't react to anything anymore...
(keyboard-lights just turn on shortly (<1s) on plug in and thats all)
(lsusb shows just the 3 default entries: 2 hsot controlers + touchscreen id)
So i assume its dead...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What does it mean didn't react to anything.... really nothing?
Have you already inspected dmesg output?
May try with USB stick instead of your keyboard.
Some sticks also claim to use more power than others...
You might examine this with lsusb as well, most "tell" the host they will consume 200mA.
FrEcP said:
Anyway - after the shock I tried to figure out what I changed the past days an all I can remeber was the turbomode... did anyone make the same experience perhaps?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think there's a side effect with turbomode... though i can't tell for sure.
FrEcP said:
Eventualy we can figure out the acutal problem of dying USB ports... (if they are not just dieing randomly...)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From what i found out during hardware investigations is, that there's a DCDC voltage converter that is responsible for the 5V power supply of the type A USB connector. Maybe the converter is to weak for currents above 200mA.
E.g. the kernel hack used on Uruk allows to switch on the USB power for devices claiming up to 500mA (as specified for USB).
There's nothing wrong with this at first sight, but maybe Archos did choose some of the components to weak to deliver this current.
My suspicion is that this converter might die slowly or there's some kind of inrush current while activating a device.
This might kill the chip.
Unfortunately i was not able to identify the manufacturer and model of the chip, i only know the location on the mainboard.
I'm sorry that i can't really help on this issue, but maybe some day there will be light
You might try one thing:
Use a self powered hub and connect it to the Archos, then insert USB device again...
Any difference?
Good luck!
scholbert

I would suspect, that it does not have to do with the power-consumption, since the same hardware that used to work all the time suddenly stops working...
Also, when the USB is dead the port still delivers power, but does not recognize any devices any more. It seems whatever gets broken has more to do with dataflow than with power-supply...

always nice to hear for u scholbert
>What does it mean didn't react to anything.... really nothing?
Well - as i said - the power light light up for about 20ms then noting happens anymore
>Have you already inspected dmesg output?
neither "dmesg" nor "lsusb" show any different output while plug in.
>May try with USB stick instead of your keyboard.
tried a wireless keyborad, a wired keyboard and a usb-stick all just seem to have power for some milliseconds.... then noting else can be noticed.
The only interseting difference i noticed is:
If i have my Keyboard plugged in while startup all lights (capslock,...) light up and STAY ON. Till i pull the plug. Then its like before...
Sadly an USB-Hub (powered) will neiter be recognised... (same bahaviour)
What i noticed - if i resome the device (after is was powered on) there are several wake up commands in dmesg for the screen and the usb hubs...
But it doesnt seem to me that the 2nd hub will get resumed proper... unless those command invoke both of em at once.
What does it tell for u when resuming the device?

voom said:
I would suspect, that it does not have to do with the power-consumption, since the same hardware that used to work all the time suddenly stops working...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If it operates at some limit point it might work for while without any problems.
Then it might suddenly stop working...
This is typical for hardware defects (overheat, ESD, other weird things...)
Anyway, i never got these problems, so it's just a kind of "feeling".
voom said:
Also, when the USB is dead the port still delivers power, but does not recognize any devices any more. It seems whatever gets broken has more to do with dataflow than with power-supply...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is new information for me... sounds logic to me.
BTW have you measured the voltage at the port?
It might also be that the device sticks in enumeration at some point.
Let me point out the following thesis:
1. USB device gets plugged into the port
2. OMAP gets an interrupt and is told there's something happening at USB
3. OMAP listens
4. USB device send identifier, power request for full operation.... (enumeration)
5. OMAP gets it, tries to enable power to match requirements and waits for ACK
6. USB device didn't get enough current for operational state and fails
7. ???
There should be something in dmesg though, so just a thesis
FrEcP said:
always nice to hear for u scholbert
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, great honour
FrEcP said:
>What does it mean didn't react to anything.... really nothing?
Well - as i said - the power light light up for about 20ms then noting happens anymore
>Have you already inspected dmesg output?
neither "dmesg" nor "lsusb" show any different output while plug in.
>May try with USB stick instead of your keyboard.
tried a wireless keyborad, a wired keyboard and a usb-stick all just seem to have power for some milliseconds.... then noting else can be noticed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
O.k., got it... so in fact there's nothing.
FrEcP said:
The only interseting difference i noticed is:
If i have my Keyboard plugged in while startup all lights (capslock,...) light up and STAY ON. Till i pull the plug. Then its like before...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That really sounds that there's still some power... like voom already pointed out.
Any measurements if there's some voltage drop or something?
Will need some equipment to do so, i guess.
FrEcP said:
Sadly an USB-Hub (powered) will neiter be recognised... (same bahaviour)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
FrEcP said:
What i noticed - if i resome the device (after is was powered on) there are several wake up commands in dmesg for the screen and the usb hubs...
But it doesnt seem to me that the 2nd hub will get resumed proper... unless those command invoke both of em at once.
What does it tell for u when resuming the device?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I must admit, right now this tells me nothing...
Have to think about it.
Maybe we should compile a kernel with full debug output, at least for the USB part. This way we might get a clue what happens...
I wish a day would have some extra hours
Anyway i'll try to have a look in the kernel sources... looking for debugging as well.
Might take some time though, so you might try it yourself.
Regards,
scholbert

Thanks for the reply- well we are a bit further now as it seems.
Since archos released the lastest firmware .82 wich fixes this"bug" partialy
Anyway - the USB is working again with this version - but just until the device goes into standby without having an usb-device connected. Then u have to reboot to get it working again.
(all is fine if the device goes into standby with device connected)
So the big question is - what happens in between?
Well at least we know its software related now
I will check back dmesg again with this new firmware - and repost.
So the full debug kernel would be a nice idea - can u give me some adives how 2 start? I really have no clue about that yet.
I already compiled kernels in old suse 6.0 days but I think it will be different for "external" devices - I remember having read something about toolchain,...

tried a wireless keyborad, a wired keyboard and a usb-stick all just seem to have power for some milliseconds.... then noting else can be noticed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
With the dead port if I plug in a USB-Stick that has LED it lights up and then the light stops, while if it works (as it used to with working USB-Host on the Archos or when used with the PC) the LED stays on and constantly changes brightness. This LED behaviour is related to functioning dataflow.
On the other hand if I plug in a mouse with decorative LEDs in the dead port, the decorative LEDs, not related to dataflow, stay on, even though the mouse is not recognized. If I plugin a device that can be charged by USB it even shows that it is charging, though energyflow is probably not high enough to make that a practical use. Again in this case only the energyflow is relevant but no data activity.

Nexus Player on/off switch

I picked up the NP yesterday from Walmart for $50. Couldn't find any at the Best Buys in my area. So I got home and discovered what I purchased was a return item. Someone's account was already on it and the remote was really clicky(loud clicks) and there was a ton of apps on it. After returning the device and making sure I picked up something in shrink wrap this time. I got home installed and setup Kodi and watched a movie.
So getting ready for bed and i'm shutting everything down and I can't turn this thing off. I held the button on the bottom which only seams good for Bluetooth pairing. Held buttons on the remote, nothing seemed to work. So I ended up just unplugging it. I know there has to be a better solution, something simple I'm missing.
Any help, how do I turn it off properly?
Also I hooked an external drive through and OTG(on the go) adapter and nothing, do I need to be rooted to watch movies from an external HD?

The nexus player doesnt have an off switch. its meant to constantly run because it uses so little power (i assume since its got an atom chip).
I sideloaded an app called stick mount. im not sure if it requires root, as i already had rooted for another purpose, but with stick mount i was able to mount a flash drive with the nexus player. I assume it would need root to do this, however, google just released android M today, and i read somewhere that it supposedly is support to support external storage devices natively. So crossing my fingers for that.

There is a program that works for rebooting if you have root. The shutdown option does not work.
TV Boot.
I'm rooted and staying on 5.0, so this app comes in handy for rebooting.

NuVision - TMAX ( TM800W560L / TM800W610L ) Information

I wanted to start a thread to solve some minor headaches regarding NuVision tablets. Specifically the TM800W560L, but may include others.
The manufacture is TMAX, and the brand is NuVision. Some of you have these. I picked up the 560 at the Microsoft store, a couple of days before Christmas, 2016. I ghosted the factory image as backup, and wiped clean to start from scratch, using Windows 10 Pro.
Let's say my hack started at the Microsoft Store, social engineering a sale of $25 for the unit. Yes you can get these for free, if you were buying a Windows Surface, but why would you want this if you have a Surface? It's such a terrible device to support for the sod who got one...
This unit is the most similar to the HP Stream 7, MSRP $79. I have a couple of these as well. I a bit miffed that, although the CPU is 64-bit, we can only use 32-bit Windows. This produces some problems as only 64-bit drivers are readily supported via Windows Update. I have made use of some of these drivers for the 560 to solve some problems.
Lets get down to the issues at hand:
1. The Camera drivers.
OV2680 ( OVTi2680 Ven_OVTi&Dev_2680 )
OV5648 ( INT5648 Ven_INT&Dev_5648 )
Problem: For every Windows Feature Upgrade, the drivers are wiped out and replaced with some non-functional version. Frankly, I don't think I have been able to get the cameras to work at all. At least, not by using the Windows 10 Camera App. I pulled a litany of drivers from various sources and I can get them to at least seem okay, as far as the device manager is concerned, but not much beyond that.
2. Intel Chip Set drivers.
Problem: Much like the camera drivers, for every Windows Feature Upgrade, the chipset drivers are updated as well, but then the supplied drivers are non-functional. This results in the lost of touch and gravity sensors, among other functions. This requires the use of a USB OTG adaptor, (Yes you can have USB and power at the same time!) and reinstallation of the original chipset drivers.
All in all I get the sense this is abandoned technology, and I feel that no-one particularly cares. In addition, I am a little bored with this thing, and I would like to see if I can make it better.
If anyone has questions or advice, I am open minded, but it should be sincere.
Thanks,

I picked the TM800W610L. I will see if the camera drivers and chipset drivers from this model will work for the 560. However NuVision has reduced their driver set to bare bones. In some respects this is admirable, but in my case, it leaves little hope that there's any 32bit support.
For the uninitiated, the 560, although has a 64bit CPU, the BIOS only boots 32bit Windows. This is the same situation on the same CPU, for the HP Stream 7, which I am also leveraging for support.

I have been able to dig around a little bit, regarding the BIOS firmware, for both models. Geekbench is a nice repository of data, for a shallow dive.
This is what I have, for known BIOS revisions:
I have the installer for version H, supporting the 610.
I can backup version R, installed on my 560.
If anyone is interested in an "update" from an older version, it would be interesting to get a backup of what you currently have in exchange for an update.
TMAX TM800W610L
JK-BI-8-HLK80CR100-C34A-101-F-LCD3 08/01/2016
JK-BI-8-HLK80CR100-C34A-101-H-LCD2 ‎03/02/‎2017
TMAX TM800W560L
JK-8-BI-PX5S10TCR100-X534A-001-G
JK-8-BI-PX5S10TCR100-X534A-001-H
JK-8-BI-PX5S10TCR100-X534A-001-L
JK-8-BI-PX5S10TCR100-X534A-001-O
JK-8-BI-PX5S10TCR100-X534A-001-P
JK-8-BI-PX5S10TCR100-X534A-001-Q
JK-8-BI-PX5S10TCR100-X534A-001-R 08/25/2016
JK-8-BI-PX5S10TCR100-X534A-001-T

I just picked one of these up myself (the TM800W560L) and am working on getting it upgraded to Pro (and put on the Insider preview program, because I like my devices consistent) at the moment. I was a little sad to see that these machines have 32-bit UEFI effectively making the 64-bit enhancements useless and limiting software support to 32-bit only (that immediately threw out my plans for using WSL/Ubuntu on the thing since Windows Subsystem for Linux is a 64-bit only feature), but after a couple hours with this tablet, I'm really enjoying it. It took about 4 hours to install the latest batch of updates, but unlike your own experiences, all my drivers still worked after the upgrade from 1511 to 1709 (Build 16299).
I did see some very negative reviews for the product on Amazon, mostly about customer support, so I knew what I was getting into when I ordered it.
EDIT: My gripes about the device were apparently for a defective device. Got a new one after the note below caused a brick and have had a much better time with it.
Important! For my first real contribution to this thread, I wanted to give a warning, don't mess with the BIOS options if you can help it on these devices. I simply changed the "Boot to State when Power is resumed" from G0 to S5 and the tablet no longer powers on. It's charging, but nothing is happening from the buttons. So I guess it's to the exchange with this one.. Learned for the next one though :/ [Update: Turns out that it caused an actual brick, lesson learned, don't mess with the Power Management firmware settings! There's no good way back from a brick caused by UEFI firmware settings, you apparently have to reflash the BIOS using an SPI programmer to fix those. These manufacturers really should be designing their firmware better (and not using 64-bit firmware on a 64-bit processor, shame on them for that travesty!)]
Edit 2: I ran into an actual issue that I can reproduce pretty frequently. With the native Windows auto-rotation on, going from Landscape to Portrait (or vice-versa) leaves the touchscreen in this weird state where it's still looking for touch input from the previous orientation. Not sure if this is a Windows 10 version 1709 build 17043+ bug, but it appears to be, as the issue does not happen if I turn rotation lock on and manually change orientation. It's an interesting issue to say the least. [It appears after browsing the feedback hub that this is indeed a Windows 10 Insider bug, if you are affected by this, turn off auto-rotation and then manually rotate the screen using Settings, the touch input works as expected then.]

Hi, thanks for the great info! I'm trying to start a little robot makerspace and wanted to mount these little cheap tablets on mobile robots. The only issue appears to be not being able to use USB devices while supplying external power to the device. It sounded like you mentioned this is somehow possible, could you elaborate on that?
Thanks!
Jesse

ShadowEO said:
Edit 2: I ran into an actual issue that I can reproduce pretty frequently. With the native Windows auto-rotation on, going from Landscape to Portrait (or vice-versa) leaves the touchscreen in this weird state where it's still looking for touch input from the previous orientation. Not sure if this is a Windows 10 version 1709 build 17043+ bug, but it appears to be, as the issue does not happen if I turn rotation lock on and manually change orientation. It's an interesting issue to say the least. [It appears after browsing the feedback hub that this is indeed a Windows 10 Insider bug, if you are affected by this, turn off auto-rotation and then manually rotate the screen using Settings, the touch input works as expected then.]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can confirm the strange rotation behavior, on the 610L. I got out of it by hooking up an OTG cable, keyboard and mouse.
Boot up and log in, rotate to landscape and reboot, not messing with the touch screen. After the reboot, the touch screen worked in landscape, and seems to be in sync again.
I installed 17083, that was a chore, and all seems well. However I am getting app crashes, which I think is an OS issue. (currency ran sfc /scannow - no probs. And dism /online /cleanup-image /startcomponentcleanup /resetbase) Next is to run chkdsk and reboot... I have no real hope this will take care of things until the next fast build, which could be in a week or two at the moment.
To get the recent build installed, I had to run a custom script, to clean up all the known temp and softwaredistribution/downloads folder. Additionally I removed the upgrade assistant and one drive. Then ran the Windows Update trouble shooter, and ran (compact /compactos:alwasy) and set NTFS compression on the C drive, ignoring all errors. I was able to get 16GB free, and finally able to install the latest Fast Insider's Build.
Some of these things are not recommended, however extreme conditions require extreme measures... 32GB MMC Crive is a bit restricted.

jjurban55 said:
Hi, thanks for the great info! I'm trying to start a little robot makerspace and wanted to mount these little cheap tablets on mobile robots. The only issue appears to be not being able to use USB devices while supplying external power to the device. It sounded like you mentioned this is somehow possible, could you elaborate on that?
Thanks!
Jesse
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am having mixed results here. I plainly am not getting good results with an OTG/HUB combo with three power settings. I am not getting power and USB/date to the micro USB port, as the same time. It's either/or.
610L - Nope, one or the other. I originally thought it was possible, but it's not.
560L - Nope, just confirmed, same result as the 610L - will charge in power+data mode, while completely off.
I have confirmed as well, 17063 build, on both the 610L and the 560L, has this strange screen rotation, mouse, touch screen orientation lock thing. That is, the screens rotate, but the touch alignment does not. The mouse pointer only moves in the same space as if it was prorate mode. Touch is fully prorate mode, while the screen rotates to landscape. Then got the BSOD (green screen)... Rebooting while in landscape mode, (requires a mouse), does fix the issue. Touch alignment comes back with screen rotation. (works on both models)

I see a future problem which I think we will have to address on our own. No help from TMax/NuVision I suspect.
When the microcode is finalized by Intel, we will have to come up with a solution to update the code, to protect against Meltdown and Spectre.
I have doen this before, prior to Compaq merger, on the HP VLi8 and VL400. But I don't know if it's possible to inject new microcode on the TMax firmware/bios update.
As you can see above, I have listed a number of firmware for our tablets, I am hoping we can work with some recent purchasers and see if there's an arrangement, where we could come to trade.

The USB OTG ACA support is weird. There are times it does work and times it does not. I have two USB OTG hubs that support supplying the tablet power while USB OTG is in use. With one hub, this works fine; with the other though, it will either not charge, or it will claim to be charging, but I assume not receiving enough power on the tablet side to charge the tablet enough while it's in use. It does however work, I have used it multiple times already with my 560L.
As for storage space, yes, I recommend running
Code:
compact /compactos:always
after each update. You can also get away with storing your user profile on the MicroSD card (and applications, thus rendering the internal storage an OS only drive)
As for my previous complaint about screen rotation, this disappeared after the upgrade to 17083. It was confirmed to be a problem with the Desktop Window Manager service by Microsoft and even had a fix posted to the Feedback Hub entry for the issue.
@CraveTech It may indeed be possible to modify our firmware, but the risk of doing so may outweigh the benefits. Windows already has user-mode mitigation of Spectre and Meltdown that isn't dependent on the microcode to be installed. We also have to worry about the possibility of bricking the devices without recovery (at least in my case, as I don't have access to an SPI programmer, nor do I feel comfortable cracking this thing open) seeing as a single option change in the BIOS effectively bricked the device.

anyone try to unrar the current image from nuvision for model w610L
test the archive and i get errors.
same with drivers.
tried newest unrar and also older version.
wtf??

ShadowEO said:
The USB OTG ACA support is weird. There are times it does work and times it does not. I have two USB OTG hubs that support supplying the tablet power while USB OTG is in use. With one hub, this works fine; with the other though, it will either not charge, or it will claim to be charging, but I assume not receiving enough power on the tablet side to charge the tablet enough while it's in use. It does however work, I have used it multiple times already with my 560L.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What is the model of the one that works for you?
I just got a TM800W610L the other day and have been looking for one that works with this tablet.
Thanks

netstat_EVO said:
What is the model of the one that works for you?
I just got a TM800W610L the other day and have been looking for one that works with this tablet.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the exact hub I had the best experience on so far (I am still buying and trying hubs) was this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LTHBCNM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It charged when it said it was charging and had no qualms with the other devices. There's a Cerrxian branded 4-port rectangular hub which doesn't seem to work well at all for my devices. Even when the Cerrxian says the system is charging and the system shows it, it still dies. I assume that it just isn't supplying enough power to the VBUS :/

ShadowEO said:
the exact hub I had the best experience on so far (I am still buying and trying hubs) was this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LTHBCNM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It charged when it said it was charging and had no qualms with the other devices. There's a Cerrxian branded 4-port rectangular hub which doesn't seem to work well at all for my devices. Even when the Cerrxian says the system is charging and the system shows it, it still dies. I assume that it just isn't supplying enough power to the VBUS :/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interesting. I had seen that one on Amazon and quickly glossed over it since it had a switch for OTG/Charge, so I assumed it couldn't do both simultaneously. At $7 I'd say it's a cheap enough experiment though. Thanks for the info.

netstat_EVO said:
Interesting. I had seen that one on Amazon and quickly glossed over it since it had a switch for OTG/Charge, so I assumed it couldn't do both simultaneously. At $7 I'd say it's a cheap enough experiment though. Thanks for the info.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ya I was surprised too, but it worked with my Nexus 7 and LG G2 with their ACA enabled kernels. I had to fidget with the switch a little before charging started, but I was able to confirm in Ubuntu Touch on the Nexus 7 that it still saw the USB devices via lsusb. I seem to have lost that exact hub within the past week or so, but I had used it last month to charge the tablet while reinstalling Windows from my flash drive with a keyboard and mouse attached. I can't testify that it actually charged the device since I hadn't been able to see percentages (being in Windows setup and all), but the charging indicator was on, the screen was as bright as Windows normally makes it when charging, and it didn't die while the device was at ~15% battery before starting the installation. The Cerrxian hub couldn't do that and the tablet died while attempting installation, So I assume it was charging the tablet, or at least provided enough power to keep the device's battery stable.
I also just bought another 3-port hub from Acasis, another Chinese company making these cheap devices, but so far, I have yet to get that hub to charge the device either. So it seems that this is a very specific type of configuration inside the adapter, but the device does support OTG+Charge.
That said, Windows itself (at least the desktop versions) does not actually support this feature according to Microsoft's USB driver documentation. That it works at all seems to be a bug in the USB driver, or perhaps the adapters are doing something strange to trick the device into pulling down it's own VBUS and using the external one, possibly independently from the OS (Firmware USB drivers maybe?).

Does anyone have screenshot of the BIOS main menu and the save and exit screen? I'm trying reset to the bios. I was messing MIPI and eDP. I thought eDP was meant for external display port.
lol I fixed it. I gamble on different version of this tablet. I press F3 and Left arrow key for yes and enter. Then I press F4 and Left arrow key for yes to save and restart.

snkchaos said:
Does anyone have screenshot of the BIOS main menu and the save and exit screen? I'm trying reset to the bios. I was messing MIPI and eDP. I thought eDP was meant for external display port.
lol I fixed it. I gamble on different version of this tablet. I press F3 and Left arrow key for yes and enter. Then I press F4 and Left arrow key for yes to save and restart.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad to see that you fixed it. I would recommend against modifying the firmware settings if you can avoid it, especially any power management settings as changing one of those can completely brick the tablet leaving you unable to even enter the firmware.
EDIT 2/27: I came across my other OTG hubs and have some bad news, it appears that the OTG+Charge works on the 560L, but doesn't on the 610L. Perhaps NuVision changed USB chipset revisions between models?

Just picked up the 610L last week for $66 as a small option to use a program I need mobile. Updated to 1709 after a struggle (why Microsoft, why?).
Ran great for a week and now it’s starting to freeze and BSOD with mainly “Clock Watchdog Timeout”.
Not really getting any indication of why, I know I can run a log dump, but I often can’t get it to stay on log enough. It will even hang and crash when trying to wipe/revert.
Anyone have any suggestions?
Been a long time since I was active around here

update:
Was able to locate the stock ISO files and made a bootable usb. It’s currently restoring back to OEM status.
The installer is another language, but it’s working.
I think I won’t be install updates until I finish this project I have to do.

Another update:
Getting an intel framework and thermal error in the logs, which I notice while the device gets hot while charging and operating. If I let things be without charging it stays cooler.
I’ve only had had one BSOD and it was for System Service Exception but the logs don’t show much.
I let things update overnight with it plugged in and the screen off and it was still operating this morning.
Not sure if this is a driver issue or not. Seems that way.

Been trying to restore this but get an hour into the nuvision software and it times out. Anyone have an idea how to get this back to stock?