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Guys okay i can see all of you likes the camera quality and i think then is just me i cant do the right settings to it to get good quality pictures ... i read in this forum to get rid of task killers and use only System Panel and to disable the image stabilizer to get more focused and non blurry pictures but still i don`t think the quality is that great because the sharpness is big fail ...(or it is me not using the right settings) if i have to compare it with camera of nokia 6700 the nokia is taking better quality pictures ... if somebody can tell me what is the right settings to use i`ll be more than happy ty! atm i at as it fallows Normal capturing mode, 8mpx or 6mpx it depends scenes more often are in normal and using multi autofocus as common taking picture method
i agree, id be very interested in the replies, i put most of mine down to poor light but to be fair it should be able to deal with indoor lighting
Ive used 8mp and 6mp wide. I switch on screen touch to take photo. Image stabiliser off.
Sent from my X10i using XDA App
well its looking good John but anyways in full size picture the quality is not so good... when i`m looking my pictures in my phone they look great but when i download them at my pc they are very different ...i red about switching stabilizer off and its a bit better y but still is more to want from that camera
Lakata said:
well its looking good John but anyways in full size picture the quality is not so good... when i`m looking my pictures in my phone they look great but when i download them at my pc they are very different ...i red about switching stabilizer off and its a bit better y but still is more to want from that camera
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I use Vignette since I think the default camera app messes with the picture.. it compresses it or something
Plus with Vignette you can take 16:9 8 mp shots, not just 4:3 8 mp. and they look great. Look at my timelapse for proof
yeah with vignette is much better i think but it is only me again how to shoot video with vignette ... because i can only take pictures with this widget
Vignette has a widget?
Anyway Vignette is only for taking pictures, not videos
I think the pics are compressed when uploaded. Zoom is hopeless though.
Sent from my X10i using XDA App
X10 snapshots: http://www.esato.com/board/viewtopic.php?topic=195111
pngface said:
Vignette has a widget?
Anyway Vignette is only for taking pictures, not videos
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i meant vigentte is a widget it self ...or program anyway
Mano1982 said:
X10 snapshots: http://www.esato.com/board/viewtopic.php?topic=195111
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is looking good so you take them with Macro on and stabilizer off ? is this right? and for the second picture ? what settings
johndub71 said:
I think the pics are compressed when uploaded. Zoom is hopeless though.
Sent from my X10i using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah... it's a crap digital zoom. Not gonna get anything more out of a lens that small. I don't think I've seen a cameraphone with an optical zoom, and we have some insane cameraphones in Japan. (12 MP CCD with 1080p video, ect)
Lakata said:
This is looking good so you take them with Macro on and stabilizer off ? is this right? and for the second picture ? what settings
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Heia, if you see next pages also in the link i gave, you'll find many great shots taken with X10 (Stock camera)... Yeah, mainly in day light. I've stabilizer off alwayz & macro sometimes on, sometimes off
pngface said:
I use Vignette since I think the default camera app messes with the picture.. it compresses it or something
Plus with Vignette you can take 16:9 8 mp shots, not just 4:3 8 mp. and they look great. Look at my timelapse for proof
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How do you take 16:9 8mp shots with vignette? When i select 8mp superfine, the pictures are always 4:3. Can't find an option to change that
how much do i have to pay for vignette? and can i get it somewhere for free? maybe somebody could send it to me? PM plz
Astral07 said:
how much do i have to pay for vignette? and can i get it somewhere for free? maybe somebody could send it to me? PM plz
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did send you a PM see your inbox
tgoalves said:
How do you take 16:9 8mp shots with vignette? When i select 8mp superfine, the pictures are always 4:3. Can't find an option to change that
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Tap on the Star button - effects and frames
And then go to frame and choose 16:9
always try to play with EV. It kinda seems that on 0 EV images are bit over exposed. Same as taking well lit night images, lowering EV do -0.7 -1 also lowers ISO values, so you ll get less noise
hibiskus said:
always try to play with EV. It kinda seems that on 0 EV images are bit over exposed. Same as taking well lit night images, lowering EV do -0.7 -1 also lowers ISO values, so you ll get less noise
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
sry for the stupid question but what is EV ? ) and how to lower it
Astral07 said:
how much do i have to pay for vignette? and can i get it somewhere for free? maybe somebody could send it to me? PM plz
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Bad idea to ask for pirated software on these boards...
hibiskus said:
always try to play with EV. It kinda seems that on 0 EV images are bit over exposed. Same as taking well lit night images, lowering EV do -0.7 -1 also lowers ISO values, so you ll get less noise
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, thing is, Vignette can't do that
And the stock camera app is compressing the files too much.
Why the hell SE doesn't give us the option to set compression level?
Ok guys, I have a "blind test" for you. Which one of this 2 photos, u like best.
Both camera settings were: P-mode, ISO100, Spot light metering, SuperFine quality, 0.0x optical zoom, no flash (in-door lighting), AWB.
Since I use P-mode, the Aperture and Shutter speed were automatically set by each camera.
PS: I will add more photos to this blind test, the left side will always be photos from *censored* and the right side will always be photos from *censored*
After the poll closed, I will tell you the "identity" of the left photos and the right photos.
If you want everyone to vote, you need to add an "I can't see any material difference" option to the poll .
Claghorn said:
If you want everyone to vote, you need to add an "I can't see any material difference" option to the poll .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
LOL.. forget about that "option"... but i can't edit the poll... is there a way to edit the voting poll?
In my opinion, the one on the right is a bit grainier, and both of them are a little soft on focus. Would really prefer to see both cameras at the same distances (ideally one with no zoom and one with) shooting at a standard target. DPreview has a good example for the PowerShot, but neither they nor their "Connect" site has a Galaxy Camera review.
after zooming in it seems the one on the left is a bit sharper.
and you left the exif data in, so it's still possible to tell which is which if you download the pictures.
I voted before checking which was made with which camera.
EwanG said:
In my opinion, the one on the right is a bit grainier, and both of them are a little soft on focus. Would really prefer to see both cameras at the same distances (ideally one with no zoom and one with) shooting at a standard target. DPreview has a good example for the PowerShot, but neither they nor their "Connect" site has a Galaxy Camera review.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
About the zoom feature, SGC anti-shake is really bad. I shot an object with maximum optical zoom (21x) using a tripod, and still couldn't get a clear shot. The problem is, when we hit the shutter button, our finger pressure on the shutter button will make the camera move albeit really little (almost unnoticeable). The anti-shake should compensate for this, but it doesn't.
With the Canon camera and a tripod, I can get a clear shot easily using max optical zoom 20x which means the anti-shake does the job well.
My personal solution for this is, I use 2 seconds timer. After I hit the shutter button, I immediately lift my hands of the camera (it is on the tripod) so the camera has enough time to get back into "steady position" and I can get a clear shot.
thedicemaster said:
after zooming in it seems the one on the left is a bit sharper.
and you left the exif data in, so it's still possible to tell which is which if you download the pictures.
I voted before checking which was made with which camera.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
LOL, yeah, I know about the EXIF, just doesn't bother to delete it. Figures if the participants really wants to know the answer immediately, they could just download the pic and read it themselves :laugh:
Using voice control also prevents the button press from shaking the camera, but it does seem silly to talk to your camera (and it only worked well for me in very quiet conditions when I was playing with it).
Claghorn said:
Using voice control also prevents the button press from shaking the camera, but it does seem silly to talk to your camera (and it only worked well for me in very quiet conditions when I was playing with it).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As most of the photos I take a in quiet locations (in the middle of the woods) this seems like it would benefit the technologically equipped nature enthusiast. My curiosity lays with the camera/phone durability in the elements and the quality of the shots while on the go. Versatility of those qualities would sell this product to me.
Other qualities I seek are how the camera responds to IR lighting at night and how it handles the common accidental drop.
I think this guy is the start of a beautiful line of products we should hope to see in the future. It would definitely halt my project of creating a USB 76mm zoom attachment for the daily smart phone. (that's as much detail as you'll get until I finish! If I finish...)
80000037 said:
About the zoom feature, SGC anti-shake is really bad. I shot an object with maximum optical zoom (21x) using a tripod, and still couldn't get a clear shot. The problem is, when we hit the shutter button, our finger pressure on the shutter button will make the camera move albeit really little (almost unnoticeable). The anti-shake should compensate for this, but it doesn't.
With the Canon camera and a tripod, I can get a clear shot easily using max optical zoom 20x which means the anti-shake does the job well.
My personal solution for this is, I use 2 seconds timer. After I hit the shutter button, I immediately lift my hands of the camera (it is on the tripod) so the camera has enough time to get back into "steady position" and I can get a clear shot.
LOL, yeah, I know about the EXIF, just doesn't bother to delete it. Figures if the participants really wants to know the answer immediately, they could just download the pic and read it themselves :laugh:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For SGC, Samsung actually recommends against using OIS with a tripod. But of a limitation, but in theory, with a tripod you may not need OIS. I may be wrong though, as I know squat about cameras.
Sent from my GT-P5110 using xda premium
uberNoobZA said:
For SGC, Samsung actually recommends against using OIS with a tripod. But of a limitation, but in theory, with a tripod you may not need OIS. I may be wrong though, as I know squat about cameras.
Sent from my GT-P5110 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can't comment on this camera in particular as I don't have it "yet" but I am a photographer and I can confirm that using stabilization whilst on a tripod can have the adverse affect on the image and is generally better for the image quality if you turn it off, if you are using a tripod. There can be exceptions to this however, if you're using a telephoto lens (or in the case of this camera, using the zoom guilt extended) and there is slight movement in the camera from wind for example.
Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 2
uberNoobZA said:
For SGC, Samsung actually recommends against using OIS with a tripod. But of a limitation, but in theory, with a tripod you may not need OIS. I may be wrong though, as I know squat about cameras.
Sent from my GT-P5110 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
RavenY2K3 said:
I can't comment on this camera in particular as I don't have it "yet" but I am a photographer and I can confirm that using stabilization whilst on a tripod can have the adverse affect on the image and is generally better for the image quality if you turn it off, if you are using a tripod. There can be exceptions to this however, if you're using a telephoto lens (or in the case of this camera, using the zoom guilt extended) and there is slight movement in the camera from wind for example.
Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So are you saying that if I want to shot with 21x optical zoom + tripod, I should just turn off the anti-shake?
80000037 said:
So are you saying that if I want to shot with 21x optical zoom + tripod, I should just turn off the anti-shake?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, the guidance for most OIS systems is that if the camera is on a tripod you should turn off anti-shake as the device will then keep trying to compensate for something that isn't there. You end up burning battery, and the lens will often make micro moves to compensate for what "should" be there.
The one exception would be if the tripod itself isn't stable (wind, etc), but then you would question what the point to using the tripod is in that case.
Left pic is sharper.
I think the left is more vibrant.
Rather than ISO100, how about 800 or higher? Almost any camera, even the cheapest, can do OK at ISO100 in good light.
Entropy512 said:
Rather than ISO100, how about 800 or higher? Almost any camera, even the cheapest, can do OK at ISO100 in good light.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I do ISO 100 on purpose.
SGC noise is bad starting from ISO800 and up, while the Canon still has good quality pic on ISO800 and up.
If I compare the pic on ISO800 plus, everyone will easily know which one the canon and which one the SGC
please note that my purpose showing this comparation is not to show that SGC pic quality can beat or on par with Canon SX260, I just want to show that for normal photography, SGC is sufficient enough.
first of all i'm not a professional photographer and based from my point of view, left picture is more vibrant than the right picture.
Hi all,
TL;DR - Pretty pictures taken with the HTC One here: Click
I've been very interested in the HTC One's camera ever since it was announced, as I believe that the philosophy behind the trade-offs made in its design are a step forward for the mobile phone camera industry.
I've recently returned from a trip to Japan and as an experiment, used the HTC One as my only camera (clearly not because my P&S was stolen two years ago!). I have taken nearly 8,000 shots over the 14 days I was in Japan and after nearly a hundred (if not more) hours spent in post-processing, I think I have a decent set of pictures.
I have annotated some of the pictures in a travel-journalistic manner. If you are a experienced traveller, I am probably not saying anything you do not already know. If you have never been to Japan, I hope they provide you with some insights.
A few observations I've made in the process of shooting said pictures:
The wide angle lens on the HTC One is wonderfully versatile, especially for landscape and architecture shots. Framing the shot is effortless and as it turns out, of utmost importance.
The most controversial aspect of the One's camera, the 4MP resolution does come with a very real drawback. You have little room in post-production to recover a badly framed shot. Cropping in post-production is often an unhappy compromise as you are left with less room to compensate for noise and blur. I would hazard to say that shooting with only the One for an extended period of time may be a great way to improve your composition skills.
The HTC One's camera software and auto-focus is fast and responsive, you can compose, re-focus/expose and shoot in a blink of an eye, which is something I took advantage of to take the multiple exposures required for the HDR pictures.
While no aspect of the HTC One's camera is exceptional, the package of a very fast f2.0 lens, optical image stabilization and above average sensor sensitivity means that vis-a-vis other mobile phone cameras, you will nail shot after shot in daylight and have a decent chance of grabbing something usable in low-light.
Will I do something like this again? Unlikely. The next time I can afford to travel, I will almost certainly be packing a decent camera. Do I regret the experience? Definitely not. Shooting with a camera like the One forces you to learn to frame your shots well. I like to think that technically, I am a decent photographer, but as far as composing a picture well, I have a long way to go.
Links to the various albums below. Sorry if you dislike Google+, but its easy to upload and annotate and it has a really clean interface. The albums are all public, so there is technically no need to sign in, but Google+ prompts you to login if you happen to be signed into another Google service. If you really want to avoid signing in, simply open the links in a incognito window.
If you are impatient, Kyoto and the Highlight albums are probably the best.
Comments, feedback and questions welcome. Wasn't sure if I should have created a new thread, if not, please merge into the photograph thread, thanks moderators.
Highlights
Tokyo (東京)
Odaiba (お台場)
Sensoji Shrine (浅草寺)
Meiji Shrine (明治神宮)
Tsukiji Fish Market (築地市場)
Hama-Rikyu Gardens (浜離宮恩賜庭園)
Osaka (大阪)
Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan (海遊館)
Nara (奈良市)
Himeji (姫路市)
Kyoto (京都)
Kanazawa (金沢)
Shibuya Scramble Crossing (Youtube Video)
---
Photomatix Presets
edit: converted text to links
edit2: added link to timelapse of Shibuya scramble crossing
edit3: link to the photomatix presets I've used
Wow! Those are some very nice photos! Just goes to show how much power is behind our phone. It makes me want to go out and use my camera now.
Excellent shots! You clearly have a lot of talent! And that is some good post-processing too.
It would be great to know if you touched up the HDRs in post-production in anyway or are they mostly untouched?
ankanb said:
Excellent shots! You clearly have a lot of talent! And that is some good post-processing too.
It would be great to know if you touched up the HDRs in post-production in anyway or are they mostly untouched?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Most of the HDR shots are not in-camera HDR shots, they are multiple pictures of the same shot combined in post.
Every picture has been touched up in post. The natural looking ones are probably just simple lighting/contrast adjustments, the surreal looking ones took more effort.
Love Japan. Absolutely love Kyoto. You took some really good shots
One thing I am a bit disappointed with is the amount of noise the camera has. (still love it hough)
Some of your shots (especially the HDR) are way too noisy for my liking, but that's a matter of taste or sometimes plain nitpicking.
Which settings did you mainly use?
Did you leave the phone in charge of most of the settings or did you do it manually?
I agree, you took some beautiful shots!
Makes me want to travel. Lol.
MartinS13X said:
Love Japan. Absolutely love Kyoto. You took some really good shots
One thing I am a bit disappointed with is the amount of noise the camera has. (still love it hough)
Some of your shots (especially the HDR) are way too noisy for my liking, but that's a matter of taste or sometimes plain nitpicking.
Which settings did you mainly use?
Did you leave the phone in charge of most of the settings or did you do it manually?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
With respect to the noise, agreed. In most cases, with some work, as its only really bad for the uniform areas of the picture, the noise is entirely cleanable in post. But in most cases, I've chosen not to for effect. And the HDR process does tend to accentuate the noise and would typically not be visible if I had processed it for a natural look.
Still, it doesn't surprise me that much. I picked up a Fujifilm f100fd, a P&S as my last camera. It was supposed to be really good with low-light photography due to its excellent noise control. While clearly better then the HTC One, I found myself running into the same problems when post-processing the f100fd's shots vis the HTC One's shots. I think if you really want clean, low light shot, a DSLR/interchangeable lens camera with a fast prime lens is the only way to go, that or a tripod, depending on the picture you want.
Sharpness at -2 for virtually all the shots. Occasionally exposure at -1 is very useful, when you are sure that you can capture enough detail in a darker picture. You're essentially telling the camera, hey, I'm OK with a dark picture, take the next shot as fast as a shutter speed as you can. For that reason, almost all the aquarium shots are with exposure -1, as you don't really care about the walls of aquarium being properly exposed, you just want the fish exposed.
For the multiple shots needed for the HDR pictures, tapping at a bright spot, taking a picture, then quickly tapping at a dark spot, then taking another picture... The problem is that sometimes having the camera focus at a bright/dark spot means you screw up focus entirely.
The HTC One's backlight mode is incredibly useful when you want to take portrait shots with something bright in the background. I've used the landscape and HDR modes a few times, but I'm still not entirely sure what landscape mode gets me.
So... Long story short, normal mode, with sharpness at -2, with lots of tapping on the screen.
edit: oh, also, I manually flashed to 4.2.2, which meant that I had access to AF/AE lock. That came useful for the epic panorama of Himeji castle's surroundings.
Exposure -1 is indeed good in some cases. I've used that too.
I also want to try setting the ISO manually in dark photos as I believe there is room for lower ISO in some cases and the camera just increases it a lot.
I'm also not a fan of noisy, instagram-y photos like some of yours but you have some very nice shots.
I saw a link with a timelapse video. What's the deal with that? Is it yours?
Ooops, error.
Corduroy-21 said:
Exposure -1 is indeed good in some cases. I've used that too.
I also want to try setting the ISO manually in dark photos as I believe there is room for lower ISO in some cases and the camera just increases it a lot.
I'm also not a fan of noisy, instagram-y photos like some of yours but you have some very nice shots.
I saw a link with a timelapse video. What's the deal with that? Is it yours?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The timelapse video is mine yes. If it helps, the noise is inherent in the picture, and not added for "authenticity"
edit: I think the One generally makes good decisions when it comes to ISO, it priorities shutter speed over anything else, which I think, given the fact that in any low-light shot, you are going to get unhappy amounts of noise, is a good choice. A blurred shot is usually totally unusable.
shasderias said:
The timelapse video is mine yes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How did you do it?
Did you use the One?
Corduroy-21 said:
How did you do it?
Did you use the One?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yup. Sideloaded the stock android camera, used the timelapse function. Waited...
The pictures you have posted are just amazing.
Although I have a HTC One but I don't take much pictures. You have motivated me to take more pictures from this phone now.
The filters you have used in this are given ones or some other application for that?
Wow. I just went through every album. Those all turned out amazing.
Great pics! :good:
rahulwadhwani said:
The pictures you have posted are just amazing.
Although I have a HTC One but I don't take much pictures. You have motivated me to take more pictures from this phone now.
The filters you have used in this are given ones or some other application for that?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No filters used, photos are all taken normally and edited in post. Photoshop for all editing, Photomatix for most of the HDR pictures.
shasderias said:
Yup. Sideloaded the stock android camera, used the timelapse function. Waited...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
which timelapse function did you use? How come my phone doesnt have it?
aceonetwothree said:
which timelapse function did you use? How come my phone doesnt have it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't use the HTC One's camera app, I sideloaded the camera app from stock android (the one with photosphere) to do the timelapse.
Incidentally, the photospheres for some reason, turned out super low-res.
How do you manage to take photos with the phone using 3 exposure values, going into the menu and changing the value after each photo while keeping the phone perfectly still?
Love these! The Shibuya Scramble pictures gave me to flashbacks to The World Ends With You.
I don't expect amazing photos from a tiny sensor on a phone but I do expect progression and better image quality than ancient devices, considering that sony are the king of camera sensors.
But to my surprise the macros are ridiculously shocking on the xperia Z. Needs at least a foot of distance. Check the comparison below at equal distance.
What gives?
(left is Z, right is 4 year old viewty smart)
Turn off superior mode..
Sent from my C6603 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
Yes,i'm with you.For short range photos(like macro) xperia z can't focus on item, and giving us blurry scenes.You need get back from that.
Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk now Free
Destroyedbeauty said:
Turn off superior mode..
Sent from my C6603 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On/off makes no difference. Only having flash off and holding it still long enough to semi focus automatically will take a legible photo.
The software is just so messed up. During the photo sequence, you can see it focusing reasonably well then it instead gives up and vomits out a blurry mess.
andyukking said:
On/off makes no difference. Only having flash off and holding it still long enough to semi focus automatically will take a legible photo.
The software is just so messed up. During the photo sequence, you can see it focusing reasonably well then it instead gives up and vomits out a blurry mess.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If the camera software is messed up, then tell me how I and so many others can get awesome macro shots?
Sent from my C6603 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
Destroyedbeauty said:
If the camera software is messed up, then tell me how I and so many others can get awesome macro shots?
Sent from my C6603 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
proof is in the pudding. Lets see some macro shots from around 1.5" (which the viewty does easy).
The more I mess about with this camera, the more it annoys me. My screenshot of the camera app gives me better results than the photo itself.
Left is screenshot of the macro pre focused and ready to shot. Right is the end result.
andyukking said:
The more I mess about with this camera, the more it annoys me. My screenshot of the camera app gives me better results than the photo itself.
Left is screenshot of the macro pre focused and ready to shot. Right is the end result.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
set to manual mode, EV to -2.00. and slowly adjust the EV value to your preference.
You know EV is exposure, right?
andyukking said:
proof is in the pudding. Lets see some macro shots from around 1.5" (which the viewty does easy).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check my photos (last post)..
Macro
Destroyedbeauty said:
Check my photos (last post)..
Macro
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah I hear you. After further experimenting, it seems to be an issue with the flash. In good lighting with flash off, decent macros are possible. With the flash on its totally hopeless. Its strange because almost all other devices produce better macros with the flash/light. I remember how my old 2mp w810 could take great macros with the flash. It definitely seems like a software issue to me.
There are also occasions when the lighting is poor and it is therefore impossible to get a decent macro result.
Left (flash off), Right (flash on)
Just play around with manual settings
Don't know why some people complain about camera of Xperia Z. It is a PHONE, first of all, not a Digital Camera.
And the other hand's, if you adjust settings properly in MANUAL MODE you can get these results:
(I shoot pictures on different zoom, iso and metering levels as you see here; i had to resize them to upload here but the macro is its stock camera's job):
I find it satisfying from a phone. If somone wants better than these, BUY A CAMERA
If you take a close look on the last one, you can see even the number graved inside of the usb port of the charger. I just saw now, never before
laceex said:
Don't know why some people complain about camera of Xperia Z. It is a PHONE, first of all, not a Digital Camera.
And the other hand's, if you adjust settings properly in MANUAL MODE you can get these results:
(I shoot pictures on different zoom, iso and metering levels as you see here; i had to resize them to upload here but the macro is its stock camera's job):
I find it satisfying from a phone. If somone wants better than these, BUY A CAMERA
If you take a close look on the last one, you can see even the number graved inside of the usb port of the charger. I just saw now, never before
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am guessing that you are using digital zoom to get the last close up shot? I only want what my other devices can do. But the focussing is incredibly temperamental.
andyukking said:
I am guessing that you are using digital zoom to get the last close up shot? I only want what my other devices can do. But the focussing is incredibly temperamental.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The last 3 pictures are yes, with digital zoom. The first had no zoom at all. I changed only settings.
I used like this:
- ISO 100 or 200 (depends of your light conditions) or 400 (this also good in twilight conditions I think) if you don't use flash at all
- metering mode SPOT (or Centre if you have less light)
- focus SINGLE or TOUCH FOCUS
- White Balance; it is according to your light enviroment (I use always Cloudy or Incandescent)
- No HDR, No Image Stabiliser, and hold it steady
The distance between the lens and the charger was about 8-10 cm (maybe less).
(But you really can do good macros if you use 1-2x digital zoom)
Try it and let us know how it is. Post examples.
And do not forget, LG had XENON-flash. We don't know what could we get from XPERIA Z with a Xenon instead of LED...
Here's my results :laugh:
Left : Flash on
Right : Flash off
andyukking said:
I am guessing that you are using digital zoom to get the last close up shot? I only want what my other devices can do. But the focussing is incredibly temperamental.
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ravdo said:
Here's my results :laugh:
Left : Flash on
Right : Flash off
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So now, are you satisfied with your XPERIA Z?
laceex said:
So now, are you satisfied with your XPERIA Z?
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I'm satisfied from the moment I got it since March :victory:
ravdo said:
I'm satisfied from the moment I got it since March :victory:
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I am glad if it is so. Enjoy it so!!
I don't use digital zoom as its pointless and Lg just uses a normal LED flash.
You guys seem to be taking your pictures from further away than the macros that I am attempting to capture.
This demonstrates it:
The LG (Left) can capture at less than half the distance of the xperia Z
andyukking said:
I don't use digital zoom as its pointless and Lg just uses a normal LED flash.
You guys seem to be taking your pictures from further away than the macros that I am attempting to capture.
This demonstrates it:
The LG (Left) can capture at less than half the distance of the xperia Z
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I do not understand why are you trying to take macros. But if you feel so, use the LG instead of Sony. I made what I could with it, it is macro enough for me. If I need more than this, I use my WX80 Cyber-shot. But you could sell LG and get a camera. Or get a K800 Sony but XPERIA Play has very good macro too Or you sell the XPERIA Z and buy all the above mentioned devices.
I am sorry but I don't think you should suffer with it this much.
(I still think this is software isue of Z's camera, because clearly can see sometimes it catching when focusing even from 3cm, therefor hope Sony will solve this problem soon)
Is there any thread here that talks about how to optimize the manual mode capabilities of the XZ camera? This phone has, I believe, the best camera potential; only that it needs to be unleashed via its manual mode settings. Inputs from photography enthusiasts would definitely be much appreciated. Perhaps XZ owners can even share their photo captures and the camera settings used. TIA.
Sent from my F8331 using XDA-Developers Legacy app
http://blogs.sonymobile.com/news/
If you'd look around the web you'd probably find some nice mobile tutorials.
Some of them share the knowledge with the general good photoraphy rules.
I've learned almost anything myself, just experimenting over the years.
Learn what different settings do. ISO, Shutter Speed, Aperture, Metering.
Then learn about "composition".
Then start experimenting! To be able to take good quality photos you need tons of practice. So much that when you see a scene you want to snap a photo of, in your head there already should be a raw idea of what camera settings you need based on the amount of light you have, the effect you want to achieve and what effect will this photo have on people who see it.
Photography is a very complex subject, that's why a good course isn't very cheap. It's also very addicting and results are awesome as soon as you are a medium trained photographer.
What Ive found is.. in manual mode... start with 8mpx @ 16:9 on bright clear days and leave night / low light photography alone at first.. as the results can be very poor with artifacts if your not used to how phone sensors work, you may also find that you have to drop the EV down a touch.. -0.3 or even -1.0 as, like all mobile phones, it has a wide - angle lens, so it can overexpose sometimes.. also start with setting "metreing" to "touch" or "centre" .. this means it will the light reading from where you "touch" on the screen or from the "centre" of the screen.
Also, Android phones are mini Linux computers and computers mess up and sometimes a photo can turn out a complete mess for no reason.. or you moved.. whatever, so....IMO, a good ratio of good to bad images is... if you take 10 shots and you lose 2 or at the most, 3 of them.. thats an acceptable loss for a Digital IS camera.. however, 4 to 6 .. ide look at your technique or even camera issues
Ive found there is very little if any difference between 8 and 23mpx.. just take it slowly, experiment and dont take too much notice of "youtube" reviews.. alot of them are Samsung / Apple biased..
Sadly, SONY has gotten themselves a bit of a poor reputation because their cameras/speakers and battery life have been very hit and miss since the Z1, and alot of folk.. love to bash SONY because their camera software and optics have been terrible, IMO.. SONY shouldve fired their camera software department years ago.. but the XZ has improved the camera alot.
Remember that every single mobile camera looks different on every phone and image quality is in the eye of the photographer, not youtube.. and there alot of very knowledgable girls and boys on XDA.. Im a candid photographer (i photograph situations or "real time moments").. search the forum and youll find great tips and tricks
Have a look at this... it mainly points at Windows Phones... but the photography basics are all the same for any device / phone or DSLR
http://forums.windowscentral.com/gu...so-you-want-take-better-pictures-[guide].html
Enjoy
Copying from another post I wrote on the subject:
Very generally speaking, since the aperture is fixed (at f/2.0), the USUALLY best way to take a sharper photo is to use as low of an ISO you can.
PERSONALLY I find that a lot of the oversharpening you get with Xperia cameras comes from the auto mode using too high ISO. If you define the ISO yourself in manual mode, the SONY camera will automatically choose a shutter speed.
So, the bottom limit of the ISO you can set will generally be if the image is too dark, or you can't hold the phone steady enough for a longer exposure. As a general rule of thumb, in broad daylight with great lighting you can use ISO 50 or 100. Indoors during the day I might try 200. At night indoors, like in a restaurant I'll use 400. And in darker shots I'll try ISO 800.
I would try not to mess with EV unless you absolutely need it in order to get a picture of something at all. Regarding megapixels, 8mp seems to be best on these phones as they use the full 24mp to supersample data for the 8mp photo.
Thread is here: https://forum.xda-developers.com/xperia-xz/help/manual-camera-settings-t3501516
maidguitar said:
Copying from another post I wrote on the subject:
I would try not to mess with EV unless you absolutely need it in order to get a picture of something at all. Regarding megapixels, 8mp seems to be best on these phones as they use the full 24mp to supersample data for the 8mp photo.
Thread is here: https://forum.xda-developers.com/xperia-xz/help/manual-camera-settings-t3501516
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Agreed about the 8mpx ..
Do you not find with phone cameras, because of their wide angle lens, you need to drop the EV a half or even a full stop?...
NightOrchid said:
Agreed about the 8mpx ..
Do you not find with phone cameras, because of their wide angle lens, you need to drop the EV a half or even a full stop?...
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At the ISO's I use, things tend to be pretty good I think. If there was ever a situation where I'd have to drop EV something like a full stop I'd just set ISO lower. I don't think I've ever had to drop EV when at ISO 50. That said, I've never really cared about getting the "perfect" photo with my phone. The XZ tends to take really great looking phone-display-sized photos. If I'm really fussed to want to take nice photos, that's when the Nikon gets brought along :good:
https://www.instagram.com/dominikstrycharski/
Sony Xperia photos only
maidguitar said:
At the ISO's I use, things tend to be pretty good I think. If there was ever a situation where I'd have to drop EV something like a full stop I'd just set ISO lower. I don't think I've ever had to drop EV when at ISO 50. That said, I've never really cared about getting the "perfect" photo with my phone. The XZ tends to take really great looking phone-display-sized photos. If I'm really fussed to want to take nice photos, that's when the Nikon gets brought along :good:
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Hmm.... Ive only had the XZ 2 days, so im quite new to its updated camera... but Ill give that a try.... Ive found certainly with SONY phones of the past.. Z2, even the Z5P... they lower the ISO to 50 by default.. which can give a softer brighter image. I also have a CANON DSLR, so yes.. you can never get a perfect shot with any phone.. even the "babe" of youtube reviewers, the S7E... but its good to have a good Phone camera in your pocket for those moments
Ill post back how i get on
---------- Post added at 03:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:18 PM ----------
doministry said:
https://www.instagram.com/dominikstrycharski/
Sony Xperia photos only
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They are great quite interesting photos and great quality.. what settings did you use?
NightOrchid said:
Hmm.... Ive only had the XZ 2 days, so im quite new to its updated camera... but Ill give that a try.... Ive found certainly with SONY phones of the past.. Z2, even the Z5P... they lower the ISO to 50 by default.. which can give a softer brighter image. I also have a CANON DSLR, so yes.. you can never get a perfect shot with any phone.. even the "babe" of youtube reviewers, the S7E... but its good to have a good Phone camera in your pocket for those moments
Ill post back how i get on
---------- Post added at 03:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:18 PM ----------
They are great quite interesting photos and great quality.. what settings did you use?
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Always Manual. Usually 8mpx.
Just applying settings according to situation:
- ISO - as low as possible
- Or sometimes shutter speed (XZ)
- EV in my case - always below 0
- Sometimes White Balance according to the weather and lighting
- It's also important to choose proper light metering
- Always touch to focus, it's important to test it - usually some focus points give much better results than others...
In Manual
Shutter Priority,you can set EV trying to reduce ISO
Keep press the diaphragm button on the camera,you can get WYSIWYG (What You See Is What You Get)
Release the button,XZ take the picture just like screenshot
I hope you can understand what I was saying.
I pose a viedo on youtube "Xperia XZ&XC How to take picture at night "