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having trouble replacing touch matrix... need help, pictures included

so my touch matrix cracked, got a replacement on ebay that looks perfect. i got it to work but everytime a do, a few days later it stops working until i fix it again. i can't seem to figure out how the flexible PCB connects to the back of the LCD module. it looks like HTC just puts a piece of tape over it.
however, i noticed when taking off the old LCD touch matrix that there was some sort of possibly conductive adhesive that made it very difficult to pull off. i got it off but one of the contacts got stuck on there and it i had to scrape it off with a scalpel.
see picture below for exact details. if anyone has any experience in doing this and getting it to work, please let me know, it's so frustrating not having touch on this phone.
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I think you might need to have that professionally repaired. I used to refurbish phones for Motorola but I've never taken anything this advanced apart before. It sounds like you shouldn't have scraped off that conductive adhesive. The digitizer you bought should have been a relatively simple installation but you should have taken your time peeling off the old cracked digitizer. That adhesive is pretty strong and thats why they use it.
You might want to look into getting your hands on some of that adhesive and just replace it all. Sometimes the oils from your skin from handling such a sensitive ribbon cable could have damaged it as well.
P.S. Unfortunately, most of the people here are software genius's, not hardware experts unfortunately.

it's not too advanced. i figure if they at least offer the part as a replacement option on ebay it can't be too hard. and in the mass view, it's only 4 contacts and relatively easy to replace if you have a minor knowledge of electronics.
i keep taping it down firmly and even putting extra tape on top so that the pressure of the case will press down on the pcb to have a firmer connection.
note: i was very careful to observe ESD precautions, so that isn't it, plus there's no semiconductors that could be damaged in the touch matrix.

dudah85 said:
it's not too advanced. i figure if they at least offer the part as a replacement option on ebay it can't be too hard. and in the mass view, it's only 4 contacts and relatively easy to replace if you have a minor knowledge of electronics.
i keep taping it down firmly and even putting extra tape on top so that the pressure of the case will press down on the pcb to have a firmer connection.
note: i was very careful to observe ESD precautions, so that isn't it, plus there's no semiconductors that could be damaged in the touch matrix.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm... have you tried good old fashion superglue? I mean not neccesarily putting it on the end of the cable where the conductors are, but on the cable right near the conductors to keep it from moving around and then placing a few strips of tape to sandwich the cable with the housing pressing it down tight?

yes i have but i fear what happens if when pressing it down if it gets on the pads, then i'm just totally screwed. it's a tough situation, i wish there was a contact at HTC that could tell me how it's done.
i'm going to also try contacting their support/repair office and see if they can provide any insight.

dudah85 said:
yes i have but i fear what happens if when pressing it down if it gets on the pads, then i'm just totally screwed. it's a tough situation, i wish there was a contact at HTC that could tell me how it's done.
i'm going to also try contacting their support/repair office and see if they can provide any insight.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The superglue option is very risky but it could save your @$$ if you only put very little on the ribbon and then hold it in place untill it dries and then press down once the glue is already dry.
On another note, contacting their support office would probably be your best bet.
Everything you have done, even though not done wrong, it a far greater risk than I would have ever taken... I would have sent it in to be repaired of the digitizer had a crack in it or or the dot matrix got scratched. But thats me.
Unfortunately there aren't too many technicians here on this forum since it is almost completely firmware and not hardware here... Then again, there might be a few. Where I live it's kinda late at night so maybe they're sleeping or something. Lol.

i'm neither a hardware nor a software expertm but i may be able to help... i saw the manual somewhere... www.mdatweak.com/downloads/Wizard_Service_Manual.pdf... try that... maybe it'll help you...

[REF][DEV][R&D] Raspberry Pi Hardware Overview, Documentation, and Research

Introduction and Overview
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As many of you know the Raspberry Pi packs some impressive hardware and capabilities, into a very tiny form factor, at a low cost. The purpose of this thread is to document all aspects related to the Raspberry Pi's hardware (I.E technical data sheets, PCB photos, schematics, etc.) to maximize development and learn more about the devices capabilities. I encourage anyone with useful information, documentation, etc. to post there finding and other research relating to the hardware aspects of the Raspberry Pi .​
Documentation
Note: Unless otherwise noted the documentation is for the Revision 1.0 boards
Data Sheets​
Schematics for Model A and B
BCM2835 SOC (Guide for correction of minor errors in documentation)
Actual documentation can be found attached to this post
Miscellaneous Information​
Quick Start Guide
RPi Hardware Overview
RPi Verified Peripherals
RPi Low-level Peripherals
RPi Expansion Boards
Model B Revision 2.0 Changes
Actual documentation can be found attached to this post
PCB​
Interactive guide with pictures of all the PCB modules
PCB Front​
PCB Back​
Pinout and Signals​
RPi BCM2835 Pinout
RPi BCM2835 Signals
Conclusion​
I hope you find the following information helpful and once again I stress feel free to contribute any useful documentation and research regarding the hardware on the RPi. I hope you all find this information useful and helpful ​

*Reserved for future use*

Thanks for the resources! I ordered my Model B a month and a half ago and hopefully I will get it by December. I can't wait to start fiddling around with it!

I bought a rPI two weeks ago at europe, it seems to be an awesome toy! I hope to receive the new 512MB version.

Ordered mine from allied on friday. Hope to get it before Christmas

You guys are lucky, I ordered mine from RS electronics in mid July and it won't come until November 19-25 .

Thats my Hardware on this little Pi!!!!
Version A
Currently on Dualboot with: DarkElec(12.08)+Raspian(12.10) on Berryboot!!!
config:
arm/900 mhz
sdram/500 mhz
gpu/400 mhz
disable overscan/1
overvolting/2
Cooler: Boxedcooler from AMDx4 956
Temperature Sensor: direct on Chip,selfbuildet from my old Geforce 550ti Graphiccard!!!!

CALIBAN666 said:
Thats my Hardware on this little Pi!!!!
Version A
Currently on Dualboot with: DarkElec(12.08)+Raspian(12.10) on Berryboot!!!
config:
arm/900 mhz
sdram/500 mhz
gpu/400 mhz
disable overscan/1
overvolting/2
Cooler: Boxedcooler from AMDx4 956
Temperature Sensor: direct on Chip,selfbuildet from my old Geforce 550ti Graphiccard!!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is awesome! Now that's what I call pushing the hardware . Personally I think you should add a water cooling setup .

work in progress,pics come sooooon.

CALIBAN666 said:
work in progress,pics come sooooon.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome can't wait :good:! If there is any information from your research and experimenting you would like me to add to the original post let me know .

That is an awesome case mod! I was thinking of putting one of my pi's under water literally. Maybe fish tank style with mineral water, i'll post pics if I go that route, maybe a fish bowl as a tank would be ridiculous for such a tiny pcb.

U can put in oil in an aquarium ive seen it with a normal pc.
GREETZ WITH TAP A TALKED BEATZ!!!

Longshot -->Spare parts source for a Yoga Tablet 2 830F - 8"?

Does anyone have any ideas where I can find replacement parts for this thing? Specifically I'm seeking the little flex board that houses the micro USB connector. It's my wife's tablet and she's hard on connectors. I've repaired several of her phones but this tablet is more obscure it seems.
I've been searching based on printing on the part and I can find a pic of it from google image using "lenovo Blade2_8" but the link to a russian website doesn't go to the part shown.
It looks like this:
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[/URL][/IMG]
Drew

this one or this search and i think you can find more
hardware manual

Thank You! I searched everywhere I could think of; not sure how I missed the eBay one, that's my goto source for most things like this.
I'm hoping that it is the bum part as the device still recognizes that a USB is plugged in momentarily. It's a $50 guess.

delawaredrew said:
Thank You! I searched everywhere I could think of; not sure how I missed the eBay one, that's my goto source for most things like this.
I'm hoping that it is the bum part as the device still recognizes that a USB is plugged in momentarily. It's a $50 guess.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
wow... that ebay seller sure has a good margin considering the import statement found here it costs 1.5 us dollars per unit (not even 2), yet the seller is the one who makes the price, if you have someone who can buy from and send it to you from china... or some friend in russia for this one i am sure is way cheaper ... or just go to a near lenovo support service that does hw repairs and beg for it or tell them that you will pay double the price (3 usd)
you can also search for the part yourself, i just linked the fast found search results

delawaredrew said:
Does anyone have any ideas where I can find replacement parts for this thing? Specifically I'm seeking the little flex board that houses the micro USB connector. It's my wife's tablet and she's hard on connectors. I've repaired several of her phones but this tablet is more obscure it seems.
I've been searching based on printing on the part and I can find a pic of it from google image using "lenovo Blade2_8" but the link to a russian website doesn't go to the part shown.
It looks like this:
[/URL][/IMG]
Drew
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If I were you, I would order a new USB connector and then solder it to the ribbon in place of the old one. It is tricky, but doable. Just need a fine tip soldering iron and some helping hands and a pair of tweezers. You do not want to let the ribbon cable heat up and melt. That would be the end. But, like I said, it can be done.
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Success!
I bought and replaced the whole part and it works, charging as normal.
The $50 price tag was steep for a part that probably cost $0.10 in China but, whatever; that's why I work . And my wife is happy now. So I'll consider it a worthy investment.
Jaytronics - I usually do OK fixing my own stuff but I've never been any good at soldering. I'm shaky on a good day and I don't get much practice. I can get it done on larger things but on something that size I'd probably bridge 2 pins or something. I thought about trying it when I failed to find the whole piece but doubt won.
Thanks for the input guys. XDA saves the day again.
Now if I can just find a root and ROM for it.... it doesn't play with Hulu well on stock ROM.
Drew

LG G2 Motherboard Memory Module Location?

Ok so I dropped my LG G2 and the Otterbox Defender didn't do **** all to prevent the phone from promptly turning off, stop responding to charging and literally wouldn't turn on except for every now and again the camera flash would turn on for no reason.
So I replaced the motherboard, good as new, BUT all my stuff is gone, so obviously it was all stored on the MB, I was wondering if I could melt off the old memory module and put it onto my new MB? Just don't know which is which. We're talking irreplaceable years of my son's life here, will stop at nothing

NAND chip must be located under the back keys pad:
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Val D. said:
NAND chip must be located under the back keys pad:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The big black one? Could someone that knows what they're doing desolder that and put it onto a working MB? Would that work? What do you think would be the best course of action to recover the data from it? On the back of the MB there's a metal casing with something thin inside it, and it looks VERY much like a micro SD card, do you think the data is there instead?

Haxxtastic said:
The big black one? Could someone that knows what they're doing desolder that and put it onto a working MB? Would that work? What do you think would be the best course of action to recover the data from it? On the back of the MB there's a metal casing with something thin inside it, and it looks VERY much like a micro SD card, do you think the data is there instead?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
(Ignore the red circle, just happens to be the pic I found of the other side of the board.)
It looks like the memory is on the other side. Hynix is a known memory chip maker. Also, it looks like a BGA (from the low res pic it is hard to tell, but very likely). You cannot simply "desolder" a BGA chip. If it is that important to you, you need professional help. Even then, it will likely be pricey.

Toshiba chip is the NAND, memory chip on the other side of the board is the RAM, and it's placed on top of Snapdragon 800 SoC. BGA NAND package is possible to replace in theory, using an IR soldering station with precise temperature control. If overheated, the chip will get damaged. First, the boards must be thermo-shielded to protect other components, then both chips have to be removed from main boards, then boards and chips must be cleaned thoroughly (from old solder and flux, there is a technique to do that), then the good chip must be re-balled (special stencil for re-balling the NAND is needed) and soldered in place using the same IR station. I used to do this on computer motherboards in the past, but phone main board is much smaller. Not sure if the standard BGA replacement method will work on it. No repair center will give you any warranty on this work. There is a good chance to end up with 2 dead boards. You need to start making backup copies of everything that is important to you.

Hi guys,
Apparently I purchased a counterfeit LG V20 and I can't get it fixed by LG. The charging port is no good. So you either have to find someone who can micro solder it or buy a new motherboard.
LG sent me a pic of what is no good. I have downloaded CPU-Z and have identified the cpu, gpu, storage and camera. However I don't know what they are pointing to in the photo. It is between the rear camera and the front camera. It has a little notch in it like the one in the above photo. Does anybody know what that is. I am posting here because it appears this thread is familiar with this board. Thank you so much.
<img src="https://i740.photobucket.com/albums/xx41/joedirt42/A018C6711261_1.jpg" border="0" alt="LG v20 photo A018C6711261_1.jpg"/>
not sure why I can't post this photo

FPC Battery Connector for main logic board

Hi guys, is there anywhere I can get a fpc battery terminal for the logic board as per image attached? one of the brass prongs got caught in the battery and pinged off to my horror!
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Gutted is an understatement!

@turbotux If it's *just* the connector you want, and you're happy/able to solder it to the board, you can get it here.....
http://www.fonejoy.com/genuine-sams...edge-j1-j5-battery-connector-3711-008737.html
I personally wouldn't touch a hand soldering job like that, and I have been regularly using a soldering iron on all sorts of kit for over 20 years. The connectors are invariably microscopic and the potential to cause other, accidental damage is too high.
But if you want to try it....fair play and good luck (I think you'll need it).

Having actually had a 'close up' look at the connector, the solder points are bigger than I thought they would be (I've hand soldered smaller contacts). It would be possible to hand solder, but you'd need a *very* fine tipped soldering iron. And preferably one that produced a lower level of heat than a 'regular' soldering iron.

keithross39 said:
Having actually had a 'close up' look at the connector, the solder points are bigger than I thought they would be (I've hand soldered smaller contacts). It would be possible to hand solder, but you'd need a *very* fine tipped soldering iron. And preferably one that produced a lower level of heat than a 'regular' soldering iron.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you so much for the response, it appears the solder points are big enough, look it's broken each way so it's worth a try I guess.

turbotux said:
Thank you so much for the response, it appears the solder points are big enough, look it's broken each way so it's worth a try I guess.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah....you have a broken phone right now so why not try it? Just be *REAL* careful....There are a number of surface mounted components in close proximity to your work area....
Damaging them through accidental contact with the soldering iron (or even simple heat transfer along the board) is a BIG possibility....
---------- Post added at 04:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:31 PM ----------
One final bit of advice (though you probably already know this) 'tin' or coat the solder points on the new part before going near the board. It'll help minimise the length of time the iron is in contact with the board.

I have a soldering iron with a 'home modified' reversable tip. You can see in the picture, at one end is the standard 4mm tip while at the other is a 1mm tip that tapers down to practically a needle point. This is the end that sees the most use, and it is that size of tip that you're going to need.

Just to update, I managed to solder it and it still did not work unfortunely so I've bought another n910f handset, these things happen. However the cause of this I think is down to the extended battery I had pulling on the whole module, I'm going to be running the stock batteries I have from now on.
A worthy purchase however is the extended battery I've picked up for those long cycle rides which should easily see me through, for interest its a 14000mAh Logic3 which I picked up from Maplin for around £40 and compared to its 30000mAh Chinese predecessor it totally kicks ass.
A expensive lesson learned here....

I've gone a slightly different route with my S5 and wife's N4. I have 3 batteries for each and an external charger for both types.
The spare batteries are standard capacity, but they're made by Anker.
Batteries get rotated so there's always a good battery in the phone, one that's charging and a fully charged one waiting for use.

keithross39 said:
I've gone a slightly different route with my S5 and wife's N4. I have 3 batteries for each and an external charger for both types.
The spare batteries are standard capacity, but they're made by Anker.
Batteries get rotated so there's always a good battery in the phone, one that's charging and a fully charged one waiting for use.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah the safe approach, I'm going down this route also, thanks for all your help

Yeah....It also minimises wear on the micro usb socket built into the phone...which is one big weak point on these devices.