Related
I didn't buy the HTC extended battery but one from amazon sold by Karen Deals. Link is below
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0NVM3EA1B2VE9HN3AKMA
Battery
Model No: cs-ht8585xl
Part No: 35h000128-00m, ba s400
Rating: 3.7v 2400mah
Lithium Ion
Induction Unit
Palm Pixi charging back with Palm touchstone charging dock
Operating System
Shubcraft 1.4d
Video:
Images are attached below!
Induction charging has the same charging speed as plugging it into a wall outlet. Very fast!
Sidenote:
I tried using a multimeter with the 3 contacts located under the battery and could not get it to register anything (with and without the charger plugged in). I then tried shooting 5v through it using 6 different combination (2 plugs for 3 contacts) and still couldn't get anything. If anyone knows a way to use these 3 contacts for charging please leave feedback. Also if anyone can find a minature microusb male connection that'd be great.
Well done, it's a really nice mod!
The 2400 mAh is a bit too bulky for me, though the extended uptime must be awesome. I'd even consider something similar, were it not that you're using the microusb to charge. If only you could connect it straight to the battery, would be so much more convenient. It'd still work in for instance car kits and attached to a pc.
Never the less, well done.
Looks great, i would try this myself but i cant stand the bulk of extended batteries and the stock metal back would almost defiantly interfere with the current. Where did you get the decal from?
Angelusz said:
Well done, it's a really nice mod!
The 2400 mAh is a bit too bulky for me, though the extended uptime must be awesome. I'd even consider something similar, were it not that you're using the microusb to charge. If only you could connect it straight to the battery, would be so much more convenient. It'd still work in for instance car kits and attached to a pc.
Never the less, well done.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can't plug in directly to the battery since the battery doesn't have a balancer board on it and it would explode if it were to be overcharged without one.
JJbdoggg said:
Looks great, i would try this myself but i cant stand the bulk of extended batteries and the stock metal back would almost defiantly interfere with the current. Where did you get the decal from?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got the decal in the automotive section of Walmart. It came with 2 big/4small stickers for 7usd
UPDATE: Made the microusb head smaller! Letting liquid electrical tape dry then I'll post pics.
this is a really nice mod. what about the possiblly of going via the nav panel connectors instead of micro usb. this would as far as i know leave the usb port free and also not have the disadvantage of having a usb connector attached which can be easily damged.
Personalyu i wouldnt do this mod as i use my phone to tether a hell of a lot so it seems pointless to me, but being able to just sit your phone down and have it charge is awesome.
Great work!!!!
veda_sticks said:
this is a really nice mod. what about the possiblly of going via the nav panel connectors instead of micro usb. this would as far as i know leave the usb port free and also not have the disadvantage of having a usb connector attached which can be easily damged.
Personalyu i wouldnt do this mod as i use my phone to tether a hell of a lot so it seems pointless to me, but being able to just sit your phone down and have it charge is awesome.
Great work!!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tired the navpanel connections with no success. If anyone has a multimeter please try to do it to theirs (with charger plugged in).
that is really odd....only think i can think of is manye theres something that needs to happen with the middle pin.
nice work i think that decal are very cute indeed!
PPL this is knowed from a long time! This pins are used for example with Car Kit like CU s400: http://www.slashgear.com/htc-hd2-cu-s400-car-kit-gets-priced-detailed-coming-december-1360143/
This car kit is in two versions: like this on 1st photo - use other battery cover which use this "mysterious" pins to run NaviPanel and charging battery and 2nd version with charging via microUSB port.
I hope this helps a bit.
veda_sticks said:
that is really odd....only think i can think of is manye theres something that needs to happen with the middle pin.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This "odd" middle pin you can find in every phone battery too. If you depart any battery you can find there a little electronic circuit.
I think, that this pin is used to metering battery charge, but i can be wrong - im not advanced in electornics.
I'm well aware of the existance of these products but cannot figure out what the three contacts below the batteries are.
Maybe some users having one. In that case he/she can make photos of all connectors or better - check it with multimeter which connector is +, - and this middle one.
Maybe some service manuals can tell something more abt this. I searched for it and i did'nt find nothing useful.
FRANQ_23_PL said:
Maybe some users having one. In that case he/she can make photos of all connectors or better - check it with multimeter which connector is +, - and this middle one.
Maybe some service manuals can tell something more abt this. I searched for it and i did'nt find nothing useful.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also did a search on google and xda but with no luck. I don't think it inputs 5v into the machine since I did shoot 5v into the 3 connectors using different combination.
Hi all,
The contact closest to the center of the phone (looking along the longest axis of the phone) is the +5V, the one furthest from the +5V is the ground, and there's a small voltage on the center contact, positive to ground. These +5V voltage shows up (on my phone) only when the mini-USB charger is plugged in.
I've got the +5V terminal of the Pre plate attached to the +5V contact on the phone, and the other one attached to the GND contact. Inductive charging works at 341ma (as measure by the hardware and read by BattClock) at maximum, which is probably not coincidentally also the limit set on USB charging, at least from my laptop.
I tried hooking the Touchstone up to a Apple ~1" cubed charger, didn't get any charge. I haven't read the USB power specifications, but according to the people at the Palm forums you have to have a USB spec power-capable charger to initialize the Touchstone, and the USB ICs signal this by connecting the two data lines. This can be approximated by clipping a USB cable and twisting the data lines together on the Touchstone side of the cable. This allowed the Apple charger to power the Touchstone.
The HTC stock charger works fine, as does an 800ma Verizon charger I had laying around. I tried hooking the Touchstone up to both a [email protected] switching charger and a 5V 8A supply, the Touchstone still charged at 341ma. I'm guessing this is software, firmware or hardware limited, just like the computer USB connection. I would speculate that if you shorted the middle pin to the ground pin, it might remove this restriction. Or fry your phone, I didn't try it.
There's a guy on the Pre forums who got the Touchstone to consume about 1.02A (http://forums.precentral.net/palm-p...b-adapters-touchstone-dock-2.html#post2020491) so the thing can, apparently transfer some power. I don't know how long it would last at those wattages, but I'm going to read a bit on the USB power spec and see if the 341ma limit can be lifted.
It's kind of nice to use the internal connector, because it leaves the microUSB port open. If anyone has any questions feel free to ask. With the relevant portion of the Pre cover stuck to the back of my phone, there are no wires out of the chassis and the added part doesn't add any considerable bulk to the phone. It protrudes less than the camera.
Anyways, hope this isn't a thread-jack or too long, but I figured it might help anyone that's going to take the time to do this.
Thanks to the community here.
Did you dremel and hotglue the plastic case to the metal case? Interweb highfive from me to you!
Can you post pictures of the inside wiring please?
I did. I basically cut out a square from the HD2 back large enough to hold the coiled length of wire that is needed to allow the back to be removed and articulated. Then I used Super Glue to fix the section of the Pre back containing the inductive coil and circuitry to the HD2 back.
If you're trying to maintain your warranty I might suggest DigiKey part number 478-4687-1-ND, it's from the AVX "MOBO Spring Contact Interconnect Solutions" catalog under battery connectors (I can send you a .pdf copy of the catalog, it's too big to upload to forum). This is a 3mm pitch connector that should mate well with the internal connector - but - I don't have calipers so I would measure before ordering. I just soldered the wires to my HD2.
I'll post some pictures soonish.
And yeah, high five for sure. Thanks for pioneering this. My last phone was retired when the power connector became flaky, so it's nice not to have to worry about the contact wearing out.
Ur mod is on a dutch popular website!
http://tweakers.net/nieuws/69360/mod-maakt-draadloos-laden-mogelijk-op-htc-hd2.html
Right angle micro-usb
I'm looking to do the same thing with my Vibrant and have been searching for a similar connector. I just did a quick google search and found these angled connectors:
http://www.usbfirewire.com/u_microb_cables_angled.html
I tried soldering it your way with no sucess
Soldering pins are as shown
(If viewing vertically with top up)
(leftside of hd2) negative x positive (center of hd2)
bumping an old thread to see if you've taken pictures of the contact points yet.
Sorry it took me so long to reply. Two pictures, the first is the terminal with the wires soldered in, the second shows how I got the cables from the Palm coil/board through the cover. The terminals as you look along the longest axis of the phone with the microUSB plug closest to you are GND, something, and +5v.
So from left to right: 1 GND / 2 ? / 3 +5v.
Got a new nook simple touch- charged in for 24 hours - will not power up- has the same screen all the time "fully charge before first use".
Tried 4 different charges, cables and different PC's. Contacted Barnes & Noble support - talked me through all various software resets pressing buttons - nothing worked - then told me take it back to store. I cannot return the thing as live outside uk.
I have tried removing the battery by taking the thing apart , leaving battery disconnected for a few hours - reconnecting it but nothing works.
The LED light is always green when plugged into charger, from what i gather it should be orange when charging?
The battery also does not seem to be heating up when charging, i have touched it a few times to test its stone cold
Nothing happens when connected to PC either.
Does anyone know any reset procedure that i can try please as i am getting to the stage of throwing this thing into the bin?
it may just be a bad unit
If you have a voltmeter, see if you can measure a voltage across the red and black leads out of the battery.
The Nook will not boot up without a battery (on the USB obviously).
I haven't looked into whether it's a safety on the thermistor or what.
Renate NST said:
If you have a voltmeter, see if you can measure a voltage across the red and black leads out of the battery.
The Nook will not boot up without a battery (on the USB obviously).
I haven't looked into whether it's a safety on the thermistor or what.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks i do have a voltmeter but there is no red black lead, there are 6 wires as in the image attached, do you know what the six wires are or is there anyway to find a pinout from them so i could meter it?
There's no other tricks to reset the battery is there i have heard sometimes the battery needs to be left unconnected for a few hours then reconnected but that didn't do nothing for me
Thanks
I see red, I see black.
The two red wires on the connector are positive.
The two black leads on the connector are negative.
The yellow and the green are for the thermistor to measure battery temperature.
A truly frozen Nook.
I finally got around to investigating fully the whole battery wiring on the Nook.
Some people have expressed interest in running a Nook without a battery.
Removing the battery and using USB power does not work.
As stated above, of the 6 wires, the two red are positive and the two black are negative.
The green wire is a battery ID.
This is a 30K ohm resistance to ground to indicate that the battery is plugged in.
The yellow wire is for battery temperature.
This is a NTC (Negative Temperature Coefficient) thermistor.
It has a resistance of about 10K ohms at room temperature, decreasing as the temperature goes up.
You can run your Nook without the yellow wire (thermistor).
(The battery temperature will be off.)
You do need the green wire (battery ID) to get the Nook to power.
If you want to run your Nook without a battery,
connect a 30K from green to ground (27K seems to work fine) and
connect a 10K from yellow to ground (just to be nice) and
feed the V+ battery with around 4V.
You might try feeding that with a diode voltage drop off the USB connector.
(I didn't try that.)
The screen shot indicates -40C for open and +40C for 5K ohms.
(Thanks to 160thehaven for the photo. I have no macro lens.)
Renate NST said:
If you have a voltmeter, see if you can measure a voltage across the red and black leads out of the battery.
The Nook will not boot up without a battery (on the USB obviously).
I haven't looked into whether it's a safety on the thermistor or what.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
okay close to throwing this thing away, the light is always green. I think the battery is not charging. even though when plugged in i seem to be getting a voltage swing on the red and black wires.
Should i measure the voltage across the red and black wires when booting up the nook? with the usb disconnected
To make life easy, grab the ground off the metal cage for the SD card.
What's the voltage on the red with no USB connection?
When you connect the Nook to your PC does it ever say, "Found new device OMAP3630"?
The question, is the processor powering up at all?
Is it doing the primary bootloader?
Is it doing the secondary bootloader?
If you had a kernel console, it might tell you what's up.
Just for yucks, what's the voltage on the yellow and green test points?
Does it pulse every few seconds?
his eedolsi
Renate NST said:
To make life easy, grab the ground off the metal cage for the SD card.
What's the voltage on the red with no USB connection? i will test this now
When you connect the Nook to your PC does it ever say, "Found new device OMAP3630"?
yes it does and it looks for the driver and keeps connecting and reconnecting
The question, is the processor powering up at all? how would i know this
Is it doing the primary bootloader? how would i know this
Is it doing the secondary bootloader? how would i know this
If you had a kernel console, it might tell you what's up.
Just for yucks, what's the voltage on the yellow and green test points?
Does it pulse every few seconds?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes when plugged in the light is solid green but then pulses orange every few seconds
160thehaven said:
yes when plugged in the light is solid green but then pulses orange every few seconds
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh, I was asking if the green and yellow test points pulse.
What's the voltage on them?
Mdevai 155
Renate NST said:
Oh, I was asking if the green and yellow test points pulse.
What's the voltage on them?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i give up no voltage anywhere, i think the battery is defective
thanks for you help its going to go in scrap heap- only useful debug feature it does is flash the orange light the odd time when connected to charger- prob means something to barnes and noble
im sorry i purchased this
Aw, don't give up so easily.
I hate an unsolved mystery.
You're sure that your voltmeter is working correctly?
You can't measure anything from the V+ test point to the SD card metal frame?
There's no way to exchange it with B&N?
If you are really giving up, I'll take a look/keep it/fix it/return it/something.
Send me a PM for details.
I'm actually having the same problem. It started a couple of days ago. I tried using this method (http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1813384) and I was able to at least boot it. However, after only one day (without using it much) it started failing again and now when I use that trick it lasts a few minutes.
I will try measuring the battery voltage and I wonder if it would be a good idea to try to re-root it. However, I don't know if I should try in case it freezes half way through the flashing and I end up with a nice black brick.
I think this issue is happening quite a lot. I hope we can all work together to find a solution.
--Update--
I checked the voltage on the battery and it shows 40mV. So it's definitely depleted. However, when I do the trick and manage to boot the device, it says that the battery is 100% charged and the green LED is on. Conclusion, the device is preventing the battery from getting charged :/ Any ideas how to fix this? Is there any other way I can charge the battery?
40 mV?
If your voltmeter is working and on the correct place, then your battery is way dead, as in broken.
We can argue about whether you should discharge Li ion to 3.5 V, 3.3 V, 3.0 or even 2.5V,
but if any time it's reading a lot less than that, then you have a deceased battery.
If it's open or high resistance, a charging circuit can take it up to 4.1 V easily.
It would show as 100% charged but have no actual charge to backup that statistic.
It's interesting, because the BQ24072 should be able to power up the Nook without a battery.
I think it's that pesky MSP430F2272 that is not allowing the Nook to go on without a battery.
This calls for more experimenting!
Renate NST said:
40 mV?
If your voltmeter is working and on the correct place, then your battery is way dead, as in broken.
We can argue about whether you should discharge Li ion to 3.5 V, 3.3 V, 3.0 or even 2.5V,
but if any time it's reading a lot less than that, then you have a deceased battery.
If it's open or high resistance, a charging circuit can take it up to 4.1 V easily.
It would show as 100% charged but have no actual charge to backup that statistic.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
First of all thank you for your help.
Maybe I measured it wrong?... I was checking the voltage between the red cable (or so I think) and the metallic frame where you put the micro SD card. I also checked it from there to the black cable and it said 0 V, as I was expecting.
Renate NST said:
It's interesting, because the BQ24072 should be able to power up the Nook without a battery.
I think it's that pesky MSP430F2272 that is not allowing the Nook to go on without a battery.
This calls for more experimenting!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Definitely! I'm up for it!
Look, Ma, no battery!
The Nook seems pretty idiosyncratic how it will turn on.
I was trying to make it work just USB powered.
At the least, that gives the people with battery problems a reference point.
On the photo above there are two points labelled "V+ Battery.
Solder the cathode (the stripey end) of a 1N4001 (or better) diode to one of these points.
Connect the anode of the diode to the red wire of a spare, gutted USB cable.
Connect the black wire of the USB cable to the gold border on the circuit board.
Plug in the USB cable. The Nook should boot.
I've tried just stealing the 5V off the Nook's USB connector, but the Nook refuses to boot when both the USB and battery come up at the same time.
The ID and the thermistor circuits don't seem to be that necessary.
i have same DOA device (Simple Touch with Glowlight) , wont power on , green led on usb charger or pc usb cable , quickly reappeared 3630 omap device in device manager when pressed power button
i disassembled device - accu show 2.4v , i recharged accu in turnigy charger - it normally charged about 3 hours and show capacity 1550mah but when i connected it back to the nook it wont power up again and same green light on charger and usb cable , i try all reset combinations - no luck
It is possible for your battery to accept current, charge and still not be able to supply any current.
This would be the case if the charge circuit is working but the discharge circuit is open.
Did you measure the battery voltage after charging?
Can you measure it with some sort of load on it?
50 to 100 ohms would be fine.
If anybody has gotten far enough to tear a battery down any identifying photos of the battery protection module would be appreciated.
i find another working nook (without glow) , tomorrow i check battery (but battery is ok - i try it in charger . internal resistance is low an discharge on 1A corrent is ok )
but now i solder wires from regulated power supply to battery tp - i find nook consumption is 160 mA current on 4.2 v supply and it reacted on power button - if i press pw about 20 - 30 sec is 0 ma current press again and 160 mA still here
battery is ok . screen is ok , mainboard is not ok
working nook eat 150 mA current on start , working nook not start when regulated power supply connected on battery tp - press power button , 150 mA . depress button - 0mA
replaced mainboard ( from nook gl with broken screen) - all working ok
Hi!
I bought a brand new NST on ebay, when i plugged to charger the led light up as green, dont orange. few hours later i coudnt turn on, i disassembled the nook. the battery case was torn, the voltmeter show 0,3 V, my multicharger coudnt see as a lipo battery. i bought a 3,7V 1500mAh lipo cell, i cut the "charger pcb" from the old battery, soldered to the new cell. but not working. when i plug to charger or usb the led light up green. but green without battery too. the pc show as a "omap 3630 device, but nothing too.
the new battery show :3,99V on black-red wire.
9,2 K resistance on black-yellow
99,8K resist. on the green-black with the original wiring, but nothing.
I try to solder a 10K to yellow and 30K to green resistance to ground (black) but not working this method!!! the led is green when i plug to charger with or without battery. i thing the nook cant see the battery is plugged.
can anyone measure and tell me the original battery good parameters???? yellow-black, green-black,etc. or what can i do that the nook see the battery. the original battery was LICO, china!!!!
I m live in hungary, i bought from uk, the delivery cost was 1/3 price of the nook, the re-send and re-delivery cost not return...
thanks!!!!
update: if i try to charge the battery pack via 6pin outlet with my lipo charger (red-black wire),it identify as a 3,7V lipo cell but say the "connection break" after 2 second charging. if i try to charge directly on the cell pinouts its everything ok!!!!
i cant buy a new battery in hungary now. if i soldering 10K,30K,+ and ground directly to the battery without "charging pcb" it s good idea or other solutions???
thanks
More people seem to have problems with batteries.
I'd like to see if we could get a handle on this.
Some background info:
If you plug a USB host (like a PC) into the Nook with or without a battery it should do the inital power up.
The processor finds itself powered up somehow and starts executing internal bootstrap code in ROM.
It identifies on USB as OMAP3630.
It waits around a few seconds for a command then continues.
Depending on which jumper resistors are soldered in (I'm still looking for this info),
it tries to find the primary boot loader on the SD card or the internal NAND.
The file it looks for is MLO on a FAT disk.
This file is actually x-loader, a very simple loader.
x-loader will load u-boot.bin
Here is where things get complicated.
Up until this point the processor only knows that it seems to have power.
It has not engaged enough peripherals to figure out what or how.
It's at this point that u-boot checks to see if a battery is connected,
what the temperature and voltage is.
Although from a technical point of view the Nook could boot up Android now
without a problem u-boot does not allow it.
Everybody has had that annoying situation of a dead Nook plugged into
a charger and wants to read their book but u-boot digs its heals in and says,
"No, you have to wait while I do some charging."
If you have the battery disconnected but the two sources of identification
wired around (the thermistor and the ID resistance) the Nook will try to charge.
See: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=42552349#post42552349
It will pulse on and off at about a one second cycle the charging on the battery.
If you connect an LED and a 220-1000 ohm resistor between the battery connection
point and ground you should see it flashing.
If at this point you connect just for a moment the two wires of an external LiPo battery
the display should be activated and go through the charging animation.
Remove the battery and the animation will continue.
This is proof that the Nook could be happy without any battery.
So where does this leave you with your specific problem?
The first question is whether your original battery really has a problem or just discharged.
If you tore the battery apart and couldn't even charge it without the battery protection module that might be something.
Note: I am not advocating the permanent removal of the battery protection module.
I'm just saying for the purpose of testing when you have your eyes right on the battery it's ok.
Check to see if you can get the LED above to flash.
Check if your hacking resistors are correct.
You had a McNair battery pack and the ID resistance was 100K?
I was trying to get my kernel console on the Nook working but something is screwy with it right now.
I would have liked to see if some of the printf's in u-boot were saying something.
Edit:
I just realized that you reused the old BPM from the old battery.
We haven't yet ruled that out as the problem.
Try (as an experiment) using the new battery without the BPM.
Make sure that the voltage on the battery stays between 3.5 and 4.0 V
Do not permanently install anything without the BPM!
Ok,
i cut the battery pcb (protection module) from the new cell and the 6 pin outlet.
connected the wires directly to the lipo cell as follows:
2X red wire to batt +
2x black wire to batt - (ground)
yellow wire to ground via 10K resistor
green wire to ground via 30K resistor
i connected the 6pin plug to the nook and it turned on!!!!!
i do not know that i get or make other protection module for the battery. Anyone can measure the values of R and C? I do not dare to use without module via usb or charger. i can charge the battery separated from the nook, but not the best...
i dont know whats the MCNair battery pack.
on the old battery label:
Model No.:s11ND018A REV: B
LICO, made in China
and yes, the green-ground resistance is 100K on protection module.
i cant discharge the battery with my multicharger if i connect via module. (i try 0,1 and 0,5A too,not discharge)
many thanks
Hello friends
Here is a circuit diagram for Huawei the Chargar IC to exchange
Can someone tell me what a chargar i need
On Chargar IC stands ADT
Thank you
Huawei786 said:
Hello friends
Here is a circuit diagram for Huawei the Chargar IC to exchange
Can someone tell me what a chargar i need
On Chargar IC stands ADT
Thank you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know what you mean by "chargar" and what you say there, but the title of this thread is "short circuit" and no longer charged, but if it's true "no longer charged" and it doesn't charge, that means 2 things;
1. Full Motherboard is fried (if the phone still powers on then is not fried)
2. Charging port is fried
To fix that you need to change the complete motherboard, because the charging port is soldered into the board
XTutorials said:
I don't know what you mean by "chargar" and what you say there, but the title of this thread is "short circuit" and no longer charged, but if it's true "no longer charged" and it doesn't charge, that means 2 things;
1. Full Motherboard is fried (if the phone still powers on then is not fried)
2. Charging port is fried
To fix that you need to change the complete motherboard, because the charging port is soldered into the board
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi
When I charge the phone, the power adapter goes off it has a red Led
I think the power supply ic is defective
Where you can find his circuit diagram
Huawei786 said:
Hi
When I charge the phone, the power adapter goes off it has a red Led
I think the power supply ic is defective
Where you can find his circuit diagram
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know. Device diagrams are rarely send to public. Have you made a google search?
Yes I have
Unfortunately no information found because of short circuit
How to fix the short circuit
How can you upload an image here?
Hi,
Please can anyone tell me whether the little connector on the vibration motor is supposed to be soldered to the motherboard or does it just touch at a certain place?
I've already posted another thread about having replaced the battery but it doesn't seem to charge.
Without going into details all over again, a local repair shop replaced the charging port last week - my phone was returned in seemingly working order but they had assured me a bulging battery was OK. I charged my phone but the battery was draining quickly, which was what led me to research a bit more and discovered how dangerous it can be so I ordered a new one.
In the process of fitting the new battery, I discovered half the screws in my phone missing, no copper tape, plus there is no black rubber cover over the charging port & vibration motor as is shown on the guide for replacing the battery on the fixit.com website.
So I'm wondering if the small square 'connecctor' (?) part of the vibration motor ought to be soldered to the motherboard or is it just normally held in place by the black rubber cover? In my phone now, the 'connector' doesn't stay touching motherboard so I'm not sure if this would affect the phone and stop it from functioning or would it just mean the vibration wouldn't work?
Would this affect whether the battery could charge or not?
(Incidentally, I discovered that the the battery connector was upside down compared to the pictures in the ifixit.com guide (the red wire was nearest to the battery instead of the black wire being nearest) so I was hopeful that by correcting it to match the picture, I would have solved the problem but unfortunately, it didn't make any difference. When I connect a wall charger, the screen just flashes and when I connect it to my laptop, it just gets a blinking white led but nothing more. It seems strange to me that it wouldn't make a difference - is it like a usb-c cable in that it can go either way round?)
The battery seller asked for photos of the new battery in my phone and has now offered to replace it - is this likely to make a difference or is the vibration motor not being attached to the motherboard the cause of the problem?
I'll be so grateful for some help.