Just a friendly warning that if you have the back off the NST, the battery connections are a bit on the fragile side; I managed to lose 3 of the wires while having the back off for a few months due to having stuck serial connections on.
Dave
Related
Hi,
I used to have a 1800mAh battery for my JAMin (an aftermarket Ebay one). I made the mistake of sending my device for repair (screen replacement) with that battery and got a 1200mAh battery back (well - I should have seen that one coming). To cut a long story short - ordered another one. This one looked OK so I put it in my JAMin and it was OK for one day. I then put it to charging (second charging) and suddenly the device had a soft reset and would not come out of splash screen. I picked it up and the battery cover felt hot. I opened it and the battery was very hot on one side. Took it out and put it in a safe place but it would not cool down. I was concerned it will catch fire so I opened it and disconnected one wire going from the battery to the PCB inside. It then cooled off (the PCB was hot - not the LiPo cell). I connected the wire again and it seemed to be OK now but I was not willing to risk it again. I opened one of the 1200mAh batteries I had, thinking about switching just the control PCB. The original battery had a better looking PCB (more professional looking) so I connected it instead of the original PCB. I put the battery back in but now it shows 0 capacity all the time, will not go out of splash screen without a charger connected (WinCE low battery protection??). I know the control PCB has a device with EEPROM and RAM inside so my thoughts are that the RAM must have had a reset when switching cells and needs some refreshing. Any one knows how to do that????
Thanks,
Nir
Hello Gentlemen,
I have charging problem with mu Wizard Qtek 9100... its not battery issue I have 2 working batteries...
The phone starts only when the charger is not pluged in..
Otherwise RED light is shown and the phone refuse to start so I need to remove the charger and the battery and then put the battery back so I can start the phone...
When the devise has started already I can plug the charger but the Windows is not showing ORANGE light and is not showing charging....
The device acts very wired and is turning off with no reason...
This happened when my charger burned up while charging my device...
Now I have no sound,the device is SIM locked and is turning off sometimes for no reason....
I believe it is a hardware problem I guess I need new mainboard?
Please advice if this could be a software issue....
The device is G4 IPL/SPL 2.26.0001
Please advice,
Thank a lot...
Regards,
Mitko B.
Battery problem
Hi,
I know old post, but it may help somebody.
It is possible that your windows has switch off the battery charging circuit for some reason.
You MAY be able to get it working with the following trick:-
You need 3 x 1.5 volt AA batteries, some wire and 2 pins
You need to join the batteries together in series (i.e. end to end)
Next make a negative lead from the negative of the battery pack to one of the pins.
The make a positive lead in the same way.
Open the battery cover of your Wizard.
Connect the USB charging cable.
Put the negative pin you have just made into the gap between the battery and the charging pins in the Wizard - MAKE SURE YOU ONLY CONNECT IT TO THE PIN NEAREST TO THE USB PORT.
Now comes the tricky bit - take the positive pin you have just made and touch it on the charging pin which is NEAREST to the power on switch.
If all goes well the charging light on your Wizard should turn orange indicating that it is charging.
You might have to try this a few times, I was never sure if you had to keep the external battry connection on for any length of time or just a quick connection would do the trick. I suppose it depends on the state of the Wizards battery.
This is NOT my work! I do not want to take credit for something that is already documented on this site as it helped me get my battery working again.
Regards,
John
thanks a lot!
saved my wifes phone. Is this problem (happend twice already) something that I can address with a new rom, anyone knows?
I also have the remove the battery go back to Feb2006 issue. Device is off warranty by a few good years. Is it something an experienced electronics person could try (without destroying the phone that is...)
Cheers
V.
Worked for me too
I had just bought a new battery for my Qtek 9100.
This one:
sku.23974 at dealextreme.com
My 9100 had been dead since 2006 (because the battery was dead ...)
And i got a new phone.
but i tought it was to good to throw away, so i bought the new battery.
But i did let it run out of battery, and it would not take the charge.
but this trick did the job
Thanks
Hi all,
Just wanted to sign up to say thank-you - I chanced upon this forum while seeking a solution to the same problem.
I'm happy to report that the 'jump-start' works perfectly!!
I actually used the slightly different method, described in another thread on this forum:
Take a USB-to-Mini B cable. One that you won't need ever again.
Cut the Mini B end off and strip back the outer casing. Inside is a wire mesh and within that a foil lining. Pull these both back.
Now find and strip the black and red wires. The wires are thin and this is a fiddly job, especially if you have large hands, so this works best if you screw the exposed wire strands up into little balls.
Remove the battery from your Qtek 9100 (or whichever model it is). Pay attention to which pin goes to which contact and so identify which ones are the positive and negative contacts on the battery - It is described above in Heinkeljb's post.
Now, plug the USB into your PC (which should be switched on and running) and connect the black wire to the negative (and red to positive) contact on your battery.
Hold for a good 30 seconds.
Now reinsert the battery into the phone and attempt to charge.
You may need to 'jump' your battery a few times....
Once again, many thanks to teh lovely people here for saving my beloved Qtek 9100!!!!!
So there's lots of questions about bad battery life but haven't found my issue in searches - altho I suspect my issue is a factor for many to some degree.
N4 took a 4' to drop to concrete. Screen cracked. Replaced screen w/no problems. Ran fine for a while on stock 4.4.4. Lollipop comes OTA practically zero day and since the N4 isn't my primary phone I upgrade to play around. Shortly after 5.0, the battery drains and shuts the phone off. I charge it overnight, pull it off, battery is dead, phone shuts down. Will stay on and operate fine on wireless charger but powers down if not connected. Pop off the back again to make sure battery connector is snug and reassemble. Now I've got red light of death. Get Google logo and can boot to recovery options but it just cycles. Disassemble again and ultimately find that the battery pins from the mainboard and their little black housing have come off at some point. Try to solder it back on but there's chips on the back side and there's just no room to get the solder on and pins reconnected. Not w/my skills anyway.
My main question is, has anyone successfully reconnected that annoying mofo? Thinking about skipping the connectors and just soldering wire straight from the battery to the board. I don't see anything in that connector that would be a problem if absent, but any warnings I should know about? Other workarounds?
This is not mission critical, just principle/spite.
Repaired?
gkmocv said:
So there's lots of questions about bad battery life but haven't found my issue in searches - altho I suspect my issue is a factor for many to some degree.
N4 took a 4' to drop to concrete. Screen cracked. Replaced screen w/no problems. Ran fine for a while on stock 4.4.4. Lollipop comes OTA practically zero day and since the N4 isn't my primary phone I upgrade to play around. Shortly after 5.0, the battery drains and shuts the phone off. I charge it overnight, pull it off, battery is dead, phone shuts down. Will stay on and operate fine on wireless charger but powers down if not connected. Pop off the back again to make sure battery connector is snug and reassemble. Now I've got red light of death. Get Google logo and can boot to recovery options but it just cycles. Disassemble again and ultimately find that the battery pins from the mainboard and their little black housing have come off at some point. Try to solder it back on but there's chips on the back side and there's just no room to get the solder on and pins reconnected. Not w/my skills anyway.
My main question is, has anyone successfully reconnected that annoying mofo? Thinking about skipping the connectors and just soldering wire straight from the battery to the board. I don't see anything in that connector that would be a problem if absent, but any warnings I should know about? Other workarounds?
This is not mission critical, just principle/spite.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So were you ever able to get the connector solder back on? I think mine break because it was to hot when I was removing the battery. My nexus 4 shutdown on me, my battery was expanded. I was wondering why my screen was being pushed out. I wonder if Android 5.0.1 is causing phone to run to hot. Never did this with Android 4.4.4. Hope the connector can be fixed. Maybe I take it to a solder shop.
jameswhite4684 said:
So were you ever able to get the connector solder back on? I think mine break because it was to hot when I was removing the battery. My nexus 4 shutdown on me, my battery was expanded. I was wondering why my screen was being pushed out. I wonder if Android 5.0.1 is causing phone to run to hot. Never did this with Android 4.4.4. Hope the connector can be fixed. Maybe I take it to a solder shop.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not yet. I pulled the connector back off and cleaned everything up. I found that even very small gauge solder is too sloppy for the 4 small connections. Not to mention there's chips on the back side so you can't linger too long with heat. So my plan is to try again with some conductive ink and/or gel. If that doesn't work I'm just going to use wires to bridge the battery right to the board. Haven't had time to work on it but I'll follow up here when I do.
Did you get a replacement battery? Lithium batteries can swell because of overcharging. There are definitely more than a few N4 owners who had the same issue. A replacement battery won't solve that problem but it could be more tolerant of it, for a while - and depending on if it was "user error" or a fault in the phone's overcharging protection circuitry. Don't go to the trouble of having someone solder the connector back on with the old battery.
Does anyone have a circuit diagram of an Umi Super main board? I am especially interested to know just what purpose the three flexible connections in the uper right corner on the board serve. They obviously make contact with opposite side of the phone case when it's assembled. There are also three at the top left corner of the board as well. After droping the phone, the two connectors at the very top on both sides broke off. The result was that the battery was quickly drained and no longer could be charged.
I managed mount them back on so that they also had functioning contacts by carefully super glueing them in place. After reasembling the phone it worked again but only for two days, then again I couldn't charge the phone. It turned out, that the connector on the right top corner had broken off again.
So just what is it for, anyway, because as far as I can tell, really only the second connector has a connection to metal on the cover when assembled?
So now I very, very carefully sodered it together and I knew I could destroy the rest of the electronics, but had nothing to loose... Then I tested the connection with a ohm meter and it was as it should be. Again I reassembled the phone, but still can't charge its battery. Maybe I really did kill something else in the process.
Still I am interested in a circuit diagram to understand what might be the problem. Can anyone help out?
Hy all,
i've got the Yoga Book YB1-X91F Windows10 pro.
I've changed my battery.
Now is the problem,that windows automatical shut down after few seconds.
It show a thermometer on the screen befor.
What can i do to fix this ?
Many thanks for all helpfull tipps.
Regards Dete
Hmm it is weird cause I ain't got any problems with battery
which is the best in 2020? android or windows version?
crasher69 said:
Hy all,
i've got the Yoga Book YB1-X91F Windows10 pro.
I've changed my battery.
Now is the problem,that windows automatical shut down after few seconds.
It show a thermometer on the screen befor.
What can i do to fix this ?
Many thanks for all helpfull tipps.
Regards Dete
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the exact same problem. New battery, overnight on the power cable, boots up fine. Then after a few seconds, and with the battery status showing 100% it declares low battery and the excess heat icon before automatically shutting down. It does not display the behavior in Safe mode, but I can't check the battery in that state so I don't leave it running for long.
Has anyone else out there encountered this after replacing a Lenovo Yoga Book YB1-X91f Windows 10 battery?
I have the exact same problem. New battery, overnight on the power cable, boots up fine. Then after a few seconds, and with the battery status showing 100% it declares low battery and the excess heat icon before automatically shutting down. It does not display the behavior in Safe mode, but I can't check the battery in that state so I don't leave it running for long.
Has anyone else out there encountered this after replacing a Lenovo Yoga Book YB1-X91f Windows 10 battery?
tcarole said:
I have the exact same problem. New battery, overnight on the power cable, boots up fine. Then after a few seconds, and with the battery status showing 100% it declares low battery and the excess heat icon before automatically shutting down. It does not display the behavior in Safe mode, but I can't check the battery in that state so I don't leave it running for long.
Has anyone else out there encountered this after replacing a Lenovo Yoga Book YB1-X91f Windows 10 battery?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your battery is not Lenovo offically. It only works on android yogabook(yb1-x90f). You can rename LenovoShutdownService.exe(?) on C:\Windows\system32 to prevent windows shutting down. But you can not charge your battery while windows is running. Charging battery only works while windows is not running.
But I found this battery on taobao. It can charge while windows is running. https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a1z09.2.0.0.46792e8d0NWTpv&id=652131598092&_u=aue0c7jeb27
scott_lai - great tips! How did you discover the workaround - and the alternate battery source?
Posting a progress report since soctt_lai's suggestions. I took his hint to disable the LenovoShutdownService, but rather than rename the executable, I simply disabled it in the Admin Tools/ Services list. I also managed to install the most recent Intel Battery Management driver dated 2017. After installing a YB1-X90F (Android) battery, it appears to take a charge, as I can leave it on the charger all night, and run unplugged all day without dying. The battery monitor doesn't know what the battery status is (reports 100% and never changes), but that may not be crucial if I am careful to keep it plugged in when I am not walking around with it. Also, with the latest Battery Management driver it appears to take a charge even when turned on (though I have no way to confirm that objectively).
I faced this problem too, It's because the Windows YOGA Book use different battery "fuel gauge" chip (bq27542) from Android Yoga book (bq27514). only thing to do is to swap the battery fuel gauge + protection PCB from one to another. I've made video about doing it here
I now have two Android batteries and the defunct Windows battery. I am ready to try moving the Windows battery controller PCB to one of the Android batteries, but I am having trouble following your video. Do you have a slowed-down version, or could you describe what you are doing? Thanks.
tcarole said:
I now have two Android batteries and the defunct Windows battery. I am ready to try moving the Windows battery controller PCB to one of the Android batteries, but I am having trouble following your video. Do you have a slowed-down version, or could you describe what you are doing? Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is quite complicated. I'll try my best to explain everything including the small details.
Tools
- Flat head screwdriver (for prying battery taps)
- Soldering iron, solder lead and flux (for soldering everything back)
- Multimeter (for checking the battery polarity)
First thing you need to do is to remove the protective masking tape that protect the battery taps. The use you multimeter to check the polarity of each battery cell (don't forget to use some marker pen to mark the polarity). Next use flat head screwdriver to pry off all of the welded-taps until they all came free from the board, do the same thing with both Android and Windows battery. Then swap the battery cells. Before solder the battery taps back to the board. You need to make sure that when you plugged the battery board back to motherboard ,the battery is aligned with the board and the flat flex cable is lay flat like original battery does. IIRC the battery isn't align properly (maybe off by couple millimeter). You may need some thick wire to connect the battery to the battery board. After everything was set. Make sure that the battrry polarity is correct (iirc the battery of android version is flipped compare to windows version) and carefully solder the battery back to the board. After everythingwas done. Use multimeter to check the batter voltage again to make sure that there's no short circuit that cause voltage to drops. The put the protective masking tape back, put itbback the the Yoga book. Do not put on the keyboard yet then connect the charger and power it on. Let it charge up for a moment and drain it once. If you sure that nothing is off, you can later put the keyboard back in place.
That helps. What did you do with the two sets of black leads from the Windows batteries to the PCB? Do the Android battery packs not include those connections?
tcarole said:
That helps. What did you do with the two sets of black leads from the Windows batteries to the PCB? Do the Android battery packs not include those connections?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry for a late reply.
Those things are battery thermal sensor. I just place it as close as possible to the battery.