Well, since I don't have a TV with HDMI, I was really hoping I could run my OUYA on my computer monitor with an HDMI to DVI cable. I do get picture, but the resolution is horrible. I've contacted support about this, but have not received a reply in over a month. Apparently I am not the only one with this issue as it can be found all over the support forums. Not sure if it's a resolution issue or HDCP issue or something else, but I'm hoping some enterprising dev can figure it out.
On the same note, since my monitor doesn't have speakers and an HDMI audio extractor is about the same price as the OUYA, it'd be nice to be able to use a USB DAC to output audio to my desktop speakers. Apparently the SGS3 has it enabled, it just isn't in the stock android kernel yet: See Android Issue 24614
Anybody working on this or heard directly from OUYA support?
TopherBarnett said:
Well, since I don't have a TV with HDMI, I was really hoping I could run my OUYA on my computer monitor with an HDMI to DVI cable. I do get picture, but the resolution is horrible. I've contacted support about this, but have not received a reply in over a month. Apparently I am not the only one with this issue as it can be found all over the support forums. Not sure if it's a resolution issue or HDCP issue or something else, but I'm hoping some enterprising dev can figure it out.
Anybody working on this or heard directly from OUYA support?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The resolution isn't an OUYA specific problem, it's the same on many devices. I believe it does have to do with HDCP. I know there are some people out there with similar situations as you that have a converter cable that works, but it's not very common. IMO this is something I believe they never thought would come up was a problem that seems to be more common than not.
And yes, any type of converter box or audio splitter is going to cost you. the HDMI to Component box that I was looking at that I heard works costs 150, so it's not really worth it.
As for the sound over USB, I haven't heard of that yet for OUYA, but I know it was actually part of android starting with 4.1. That does not mean it works with the OUYA, however, as it seems only a few phones/tablets actually have the ability. If you have a micro USB to USB adapter, you might try it through that, but other than that not sure if there's any options.
I was really hoping this thing would have a AUX port, but it doesn't. I know there's some devs working on pushing sound and video from android over a network, but it's still in early stages and as far as I know no one has it working yet.
Really hope someone finds a good workaround. I don't particularly want to buy a TV just for this little box.
Well this is interesting...I just installed CWM, and while in recovery it shows full screen and looks rather nice. This must mean that it's not an inherent problem with my screen or connection, but is something do do with the software. This makes a work-around seem feasible, no?
Just found a reply in the StockPlus thread in the Dev section, but thought I'd repost here since I don't have 10 posts yet and can't reply there:
KyleK29 said:
http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAU...Syba+USB+Audio
This one, from what I understand it's Android compliant, so it just needs the standard USB Audio modules. I know the Nexus 7 got it working with certain kernels that had the necessary modules loaded. Jellybean was supposed to make this easy, but it's been hit or miss on which ROMs have the files.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same USB audio adapter and it's not working for me either. Really hoping someone cracks this nut.
TopherBarnett said:
Well, since I don't have a TV with HDMI, I was really hoping I could run my OUYA on my computer monitor with an HDMI to DVI cable. I do get picture, but the resolution is horrible. I've contacted support about this, but have not received a reply in over a month. Apparently I am not the only one with this issue as it can be found all over the support forums. Not sure if it's a resolution issue or HDCP issue or something else, but I'm hoping some enterprising dev can figure it out.
On the same note, since my monitor doesn't have speakers and an HDMI audio extractor is about the same price as the OUYA, it'd be nice to be able to use a USB DAC to output audio to my desktop speakers. Apparently the SGS3 has it enabled, it just isn't in the stock android kernel yet: See Android Issue 24614
Anybody working on this or heard directly from OUYA support?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The issue with this is that the Ouya looks for screenmodes of 1920x1080p and 1280x720p in the monitor EDID.
Failing this, it reverts back to a letterboxed 640x480 screenmode.
There's a thread here with more info.
I have an old monitor that runs 1600x900 I use it on next to my computer just to root. If I could make it use 1280x720 and my logitech usb sound card I'd get more use from the ouya as it's now hooked to a shaerd TV. I can run my PS3 and xbox on the monitor at 1280x720 and get sound from the av outputs.
Sent from my rooted Nook HD+
muriani said:
The issue with this is that the Ouya looks for screenmodes of 1920x1080p and 1280x720p in the monitor EDID.
Failing this, it reverts back to a letterboxed 640x480 screenmode.
There's a thread here with more info.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good info on that thread, too bad nobody has seemed to make much progress though. My monitor is capable of up to 1920x1200 and supports 1280p and 720p resolutions. Sounds like the solution is either to get the EDID talking correctly, or hack in a way to override the OUYA settings and change the resolution manually.
I am running a HDMI Audio Switch (Ligawo HDMI Audio Switch ~35€) using a hdmi-cable between ouya and switch and a hdmi-dvi cable to connect the switch with my computer monitor. The switch comes with a cinch-output that is connected with my 2.0 Amplifier.
Funnily enough the switch also solves the resolution problem, I still have when connecting the ouya with my monitor via hdmi-dvi cable. Now my monitor runs brilliant on 720p.
shaDNfro said:
I am running a HDMI Audio Switch (Ligawo HDMI Audio Switch ~35€) using a hdmi-cable between ouya and switch and a hdmi-dvi cable to connect the switch with my computer monitor. The switch comes with a cinch-output that is connected with my 2.0 Amplifier.
Funnily enough the switch also solves the resolution problem, I still have when connecting the ouya with my monitor via hdmi-dvi cable. Now my monitor runs brilliant on 720p.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bet the switch provides some EDID spoofing. Most do in order to keep display sources from freaking out when the display is disconnected and reconnected.
Glad to hear it works...hopefully that means it's less of an issue with HDCP and more to do with EDID. I'd rather not have to buy a switch that is almost as expensive as the console itself when DVI and USB audio (in my opinion) should work out of the box. Hopefully the OUYA devs get around to adding support, but I have more hope for the XDA chefs.
Hi.
shaDNfro said:
I am running a HDMI Audio Switch (Ligawo HDMI Audio Switch ~35€) using a hdmi-cable between ouya and switch and a hdmi-dvi cable to connect the switch with my computer monitor. The switch comes with a cinch-output that is connected with my 2.0 Amplifier.
Funnily enough the switch also solves the resolution problem, I still have when connecting the ouya with my monitor via hdmi-dvi cable. Now my monitor runs brilliant on 720p.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just bought such a Ligawo device, and whenever I plug in the HDMI-DVI cable, the OUYA seems to turn off sound via HDMI, seemingly because al that digital stuff is so "clever" it knows that DVI doesn't do sound. At least that's what I think, and one of the customer reviews on the device on Amazon (the link I cannot -yet- post here, grmbl) confirms it, kind of.
You don't have that problem?
Regards,
Karsten
Related
This could be due to the ROM I'm using (Primee-P9 David's mod), but I tried using Rockplayer Lite to watch a video on my TV through HDMI and there was no Audio. Is there a setting I'm missing? Thanks in advance.
chairhome said:
This could be due to the ROM I'm using (Primee-P9 David's mod), but I tried using Rockplayer Lite to watch a video on my TV through HDMI and there was no Audio. Is there a setting I'm missing? Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Perhaps there is a setting you are missing (I found rockplayer to be the most problematic player possible for the a500 with the exception of the crappy Acer apps that are preinstalled) - but HDMI carries audio and video only on receivers called HDMI switching or HDMI repeater, from my experience.
Try MX player, and if that fails, try a alternative receiver so we can figure out the source of your problem.
entropy.of.avarice said:
Perhaps there is a setting you are missing (I found rockplayer to be the most problematic player possible for the a500 with the exception of the crappy Acer apps that are preinstalled) - but HDMI carries audio and video only on receivers called HDMI switching or HDMI repeater, from my experience.
Try MX player, and if that fails, try a alternative receiver so we can figure out the source of your problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, I should've tried different apps to see if it was my tablet or the app. It won't be the problem of the receiver, as I'm plugging it straight into a TV :-D. Hoping its not an HDMI cable problem, I just got this cable from monoprice and I don't have another micro HDMI device to check it with. Thanks!
chairhome said:
Thanks, I should've tried different apps to see if it was my tablet or the app. It won't be the problem of the receiver, as I'm plugging it straight into a TV :-D. Hoping its not an HDMI cable problem, I just got this cable from monoprice and I don't have another micro HDMI device to check it with. Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But it might be the problem of the receiver - your TV is acting as a decoder/receiver and depending on what company produced it and what standards it supports......
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HDMI
Don't just assume a bad cable before trying a alternative receiver (TV) - plug it into a friends system with known good HDMI and see if that works.
Best of luck, hope you get it working
Well, I've used this HDMI port many times before and it works fine, which is why I was saying that the cable has a possibility of it being bad, but I'll try it on another TV as well just in case.
chairhome said:
Well, I've used this HDMI port many times before and it works fine, which is why I was saying that the cable has a possibility of it being bad, but I'll try it on another TV as well just in case.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Always a good idea - that way you know for sure if you have a bad cable.
The HDMI audio return channel would mean that a TV could send audio back down to the Nexus Q from another source/input and, by doing this, let one use the Nexus Q as a glorious little makeshift receiver. This would be perfect for a bedroom setup where I don't really care about surround sound and would like for everything (such as cable TV) to play through my stereo speakers that I've attached to the Nexus Q.
I understand that if the hardware technically supports it, the software quite probably does not--even CM10.1 probably doesn't. I'm just trying to get a response, preferably from a developer that has poked around with the drivers and low level interfaces, about whether this dream of mine is a possibility. If this feature is actually working right now out of the box or with CM10.1 installed, though, that'd be great to know as well
Malnilion said:
The HDMI audio return channel would mean that a TV could send audio back down to the Nexus Q from another source/input and, by doing this, let one use the Nexus Q as a glorious little makeshift receiver. This would be perfect for a bedroom setup where I don't really care about surround sound and would like for everything (such as cable TV) to play through my stereo speakers that I've attached to the Nexus Q.
I understand that if the hardware technically supports it, the software quite probably does not--even CM10.1 probably doesn't. I'm just trying to get a response, preferably from a developer that has poked around with the drivers and low level interfaces, about whether this dream of mine is a possibility. If this feature is actually working right now out of the box or with CM10.1 installed, though, that'd be great to know as well
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In my first bit of exploring thinking, my Q wakes itself up, or at least the LEDs when i switch to it on my reciever. And it also enables it as a video destination in youtube and movies when switched to it on my receiver, so its not just a dummy "speak only" hdmi output. It knows when it is connected to something... now just to see if it will do ARC.
So far i dont think Q is HDMI 1.4 device
so i would think not possible
but who knows~
Just wondering if it's possible to use nexus 10 as essentially a portable hdmi monitor. I would like to Sometimes play console in lounge without taking up the TV and just wondered if it's possible to connect console to nexus basically... I already have a HDMI to mini HDMI lead... Wireless would be even better although not essential... Briefly investigated screen cast but seems like this is only designed to wirelessly stream to a TV (which already has hdmi input)
Many Thanks,
Sam.
Ps my N10 is currently not rooted although I would consider rooting if it would enable such a possibility
samyoue said:
Just wondering if it's possible to use nexus 10 as essentially a portable hdmi monitor. I would like to Sometimes play console in lounge without taking up the TV and just wondered if it's possible to connect console to nexus basically... I already have a HDMI to mini HDMI lead... Wireless would be even better although not essential... Briefly investigated screen cast but seems like this is only designed to wirelessly stream to a TV (which already has hdmi input)
Many Thanks,
Sam.
Ps my N10 is currently not rooted although I would consider rooting if it would enable such a possibility
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
N10 is designed for OUTPUT only.
That said, it's resolution is high enough that it would be a cool feature, but it's OUTPUT only.
Thanks for the reply I figured that might be the case, any ideas if its possible in a virtual sense? Ie plug a transmitter into console or other hdmi output and have it transmit the signal which can be picked up in an app like YouTube (but source is generated from transmitter rather than the Web)
Thanks again
samyoue said:
Thanks for the reply I figured that might be the case, any ideas if its possible in a virtual sense? Ie plug a transmitter into console or other hdmi output and have it transmit the signal which can be picked up in an app like YouTube (but source is generated from transmitter rather than the Web)
Thanks again
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Only solution I know of right now is Onlive, but then you have to pay for the game AND a subscription.
samyoue said:
Thanks for the reply I figured that might be the case, any ideas if its possible in a virtual sense? Ie plug a transmitter into console or other hdmi output and have it transmit the signal which can be picked up in an app like YouTube (but source is generated from transmitter rather than the Web)
Thanks again
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This might be possible, depending on what you want to play.
If it's a DVD/blu ray, you can stream that on a local wifi network with VLC on a computer, and play it on MX player on your tab, just point MX to the address of the stream.
Swiped from my Nexus 10 using xda-developers app
I'm after doing it without a intermediary computer, that said I'm currently looking into hdmi to composite adapter into a raspberry pi and using that to stream to network and picking it up via this mx player you mentioned...
samyoue said:
I'm after doing it without a intermediary computer, that said I'm currently looking into hdmi to composite adapter into a raspberry pi and using that to stream to network and picking it up via this mx player you mentioned...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That could be possible, but yikes! HDMI to composite is like going back light years of technology!
But yeah I've wanted to do the same in the past, to run my GameCube without a TV.
I ended up with a LCD hdtv with hdmi, component, composite and vga, so I just use that (mostly for my PS3 now).
I actually just ordered a pi last week!
I'm going to use it as a file server with a 1.5TB usb drive, and also a Wi-Fi repeater, on top of that, a torrent box (qBittorrent with http remote interface).
Gl though with the video thing!
Sent from my Infected Rezound using xda app-developers app
Hi there. I have the Nvidia Shield TV Pro and have been having trouble finding the right receiver.
First I purchased a Sony STRDH550 5.2 Channel 4K AV Receiver, and found out that it cannot handle 4K upscaling (which the Nvidia Shield TV does according to Sony) Technically it worked, but what would happen is the screen goes black then will show the input on tv. Almost like someone unplugs the HDMI and then reconnects. Best way I have thought of naming this is an HDMI Blink. It happens numerous (10 to 15 times) per day. So according to Sony this receiver was only 4K passthrough capable, which actually didn't even work, I had to connect shield directly to TV and use ARC for sound.
Second, I purchased an Onkyo Thank you-NR636 7.2 Ch -- which is advertised as 4K passthrough and 4K upscale capable. I still have the HDMI blink, but now it is not as often (2-3 times) per day.
The TV I'm using is a Vizio M50-C1 and is 4K HDMI 2.0 HDCP 2.2.
It has 4 30Hz HDMI ports and 1 60Hz HDMI port.
The only way I can get ULTRA 4K to play from Netflix is to connect it to the 60Hz port.
The other 30Hz ports are labeled 4K, and when connected will play with audio/video but will not broadcast in 4K. I do not understand this, so if anyone could shed some light that would be great. (I've tried every troubleshooting step I could think of) ie. unplugging all cables and plugging them back in sequence. After connection unplugging the power on the Shield TV and re plug. (Same with receiver and TV) I've tried other sources on the receiver and tried every HDMI port/input.
So I'm thinking of returning this Onkyo Receiver and purchasing a better/more expensive one. I would appreciate anyones feedback on their experience with the Nvidia Shield TV and 4K Receiver/TV.
Has anyone been able to get full 60Hz 4K and 720/1080 Upscaling from Receiver to TV to operate without any problems?
Are there any Receivers you could recommend to me that can handle this properly? Thanks for your help.
I cant answer your question directly as I haven't used 4k receivers, but have you considered that the HDMI cable could be faulty?
Unfortunately I already replaced both the HDMI cables with brand new gold plated HDMI 2.0 4K cables.
I might be able to shed some light.
Firstly it doesn't sound like your HDMI cable. There's actually no such thing as a HDMI 2.0 cable. It's the devices that are HDMI 2.0, and will work with any high speed HDMI cable.
Always plug a 4K device into a 60hz HDMI if possible. That way if any of the apps, or even the home screen want to run at 50hz or 60hz you won't experience a problem. Obviously if it's plugged into the 30hz port, the picture will disappear when the device outputs anything above 30hz.
You don't actually want your AVR to upscale your picture. Your 4K TV will do it automatically, and TV's generally do a better job than AVR's.
As for the HDMI blink, I'm not entirely sure (I've not actually plugged my shield into my 4K TV yet) it could be when the system switches resolutions, eg 4K to 1080p. The screen needs a little time to process the new source. My TV does that when my PC is hooked up, and I switch between a 4K desktop environment and a 1080p game.
If it's any help my AVR has no problem with any 4K material I've thrown at it. I use a Pioneer VSX 930.
The Shield TV, like all modern Nvidia devices, has a built in upscaler. No need for an external one and in fact, extra processing is likely to degrade gaming experience.
Using ARC is actually a good solution although that has the disadvantage of requiring the TV to be on just to listen to music.
martyn3000 said:
I might be able to shed some light.
Firstly it doesn't sound like your HDMI cable. There's actually no such thing as a HDMI 2.0 cable. It's the devices that are HDMI 2.0, and will work with any high speed HDMI cable.
Always plug a 4K device into a 60hz HDMI if possible. That way if any of the apps, or even the home screen want to run at 50hz or 60hz you won't experience a problem. Obviously if it's plugged into the 30hz port, the picture will disappear when the device outputs anything above 30hz.
You don't actually want your AVR to upscale your picture. Your 4K TV will do it automatically, and TV's generally do a better job than AVR's.
As for the HDMI blink, I'm not entirely sure (I've not actually plugged my shield into my 4K TV yet) it could be when the system switches resolutions, eg 4K to 1080p. The screen needs a little time to process the new source. My TV does that when my PC is hooked up, and I switch between a 4K desktop environment and a 1080p game.
If it's any help my AVR has no problem with any 4K material I've thrown at it. I use a Pioneer VSX 930.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for the information. It's actually really helpful. Those were all things I was wondering but not sure. Another question for you; I primarily use the shield remote and not the controller. If I have the shield connected to the receiver with pass through, and I try to adjust the volume with the shield remote it does not work. It says this app is set for surround sound please use the tv remote to adjust the volume. Is this normal? On my previous receiver that didn't happen. I could adjust the volume with the shield remote. Any thoughts?
NiHaoMike said:
The Shield TV, like all modern Nvidia devices, has a built in upscaler. No need for an external one and in fact, extra processing is likely to degrade gaming experience.
Using ARC is actually a good solution although that has the disadvantage of requiring the TV to be on just to listen to music.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The arc solution does work. I get 4K video etc. but it still has the HDMI blink when playing non 4K content. The only solution so far I have found us to use the 30hz input on the TV, which eliminates the HDMI blink. Then when I way to watch 4K content, switch it back to the 60hz port.
I haven't tried changing the Nvidia HDMI settings to use the (less than 60hz) option. I think it's 27hz or something like that.
Does the TV work fine with another 4K source like a PC? You might also want to try a shorter and/or different brand of HDMI cable.
I have t tried another source. I'm not even sure my PC does 4K. Would I need a 4K graphics card? I will definitive try a different cable. I had previously used a gold plated cable that was a few years old, and that's when I noticed the HDMI blink. So I purchased two new ones from Amazon. I'm pretty sure they are the right ones, but would like to reassure if anyone knows.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NQ9OQU2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
those should work, but if you are looking for a great AV receiver to use with this, I just bought a yamaha 2050, and everything works great!
http://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-RX-A2050-9-2-Channel-MusicCast-Bluetooth/dp/B00YMN6E7O
mikie00mike said:
Thank you for the information. It's actually really helpful. Those were all things I was wondering but not sure. Another question for you; I primarily use the shield remote and not the controller. If I have the shield connected to the receiver with pass through, and I try to adjust the volume with the shield remote it does not work. It says this app is set for surround sound please use the tv remote to adjust the volume. Is this normal? On my previous receiver that didn't happen. I could adjust the volume with the shield remote. Any thoughts?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
HDMI control is a fickle beast. I find it works with some devices and not others. It could just be the combination of Shield and AVR you currently have.
I wouldn't be changing your AVR primarily on it's ability to function with your Shield though.
mikie00mike said:
I have t tried another source. I'm not even sure my PC does 4K. Would I need a 4K graphics card? I will definitive try a different cable. I had previously used a gold plated cable that was a few years old, and that's when I noticed the HDMI blink. So I purchased two new ones from Amazon. I'm pretty sure they are the right ones, but would like to reassure if anyone knows.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NQ9OQU2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you have a 650 or above GPU (Kepler), it supports 4K output.
I have just overcome some 4k UHD issues with my Shield TV which are similar to the ones you described.
The main problem is HDCP 2.2....
This is what I found out.
Some time last year the HDCP standards were changed to require any 4K 60hz display to only accept a 4K 60hz UHD signal if it was wrapped in HDCP 2.2. Put simply - this means if any device in the connectivity chain is not HDCP 2.2 compatable you will not get a 4K 60hz UHD picture on your display.
For me this was a problem because my HDMI 4K UHD switch was not HDCP 2.2, and my LG 55EG960v refused the non-hdcp2.2 signal, so the shield TV would auto re-connect @ 1080p beacuse the connectivity chain was incompatible....
4K UHD Netflix requires HDCP 2.2, which is why it will only connect/work on the single HDMI input on your TV rated for 4k 60hz hdcp2.2...
The only way to guarantee a working 4K 60hz UHD signal is to ensure all your equipment is HDCP2.2 certified, or do some clever duplex routing.
Unitl this year HDCP2.2 equipment at reasonable prices was very scarce, but LIGAWO is a german manufactuer who seems to have just released a whole range of HDCP2.2 routers/switches/splitters etc (at reasonable consumer level prices).... I am sure there will be many more suppliers soon.
The rule of thumb I would use is - Unless the specification clearly states the device/equipment is HDCP2.2 compatable - don't go near it.....
I really, really hate DRM....
PS: It sounds like may not need to replace your expensive AV reciever, and what you want to achieve could be done through duplex routing. Happy to have a PM discussion if that would help. I currently run 5 consoles, 1 STB, 1Shield TV, 1 PC, and Chromecast audio, all with a Yamaha DSP Soundbar/Reciever (which is only HDMI 1.4 compatable), into 1 TV, and still can get 4k UHD 60hz + 7.1 HD audio.... So it can be done without replacing your AV reciever.
THIS IS AWESOME!! Thanks so much for this. Would you mind if I PM you later tonight when I get home from work? So would I also need a new router? Right now I have an Asus RTAC66U dual band. I also have a WD My Cloud EX4 that I stream videos from, would that need to be replaced also? I will PM you later if ok. Thanks again.
MintyTrebor said:
I have just overcome some 4k UHD issues with my Shield TV which are similar to the ones you described.
The main problem is HDCP 2.2....
This is what I found out.
Some time last year the HDCP standards were changed to require any 4K 60hz display to only accept a 4K 60hz UHD signal if it was wrapped in HDCP 2.2. Put simply - this means if any device in the connectivity chain is not HDCP 2.2 compatable you will not get a 4K 60hz UHD picture on your display.
For me this was a problem because my HDMI 4K UHD switch was not HDCP 2.2, and my LG 55EG960v refused the non-hdcp2.2 signal, so the shield TV would auto re-connect @ 1080p beacuse the connectivity chain was incompatible....
4K UHD Netflix requires HDCP 2.2, which is why it will only connect/work on the single HDMI input on your TV rated for 4k 60hz hdcp2.2...
The only way to guarantee a working 4K 60hz UHD signal is to ensure all your equipment is HDCP2.2 certified, or do some clever duplex routing.
Unitl this year HDCP2.2 equipment at reasonable prices was very scarce, but LIGAWO is a german manufactuer who seems to have just released a whole range of HDCP2.2 routers/switches/splitters etc (at reasonable consumer level prices).... I am sure there will be many more suppliers soon.
The rule of thumb I would use is - Unless the specification clearly states the device/equipment is HDCP2.2 compatable - don't go near it.....
I really, really hate DRM....
PS: It sounds like may not need to replace your expensive AV reciever, and what you want to achieve could be done through duplex routing. Happy to have a PM discussion if that would help. I currently run 5 consoles, 1 STB, 1Shield TV, 1 PC, and Chromecast audio, all with a Yamaha DSP Soundbar/Reciever (which is only HDMI 1.4 compatable), into 1 TV, and still can get 4k UHD 60hz + 7.1 HD audio.... So it can be done without replacing your AV reciever.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So does this mean 650 or above GPU is for the receiver or media player? When you say 650 does that handle 4K passthrough, as well as full 4K upscaling from 480/720/1080p content?
NiHaoMike said:
If you have a 650 or above GPU (Kepler), it supports 4K output.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In the PC you're using as a source, to rule out the Shield as the problem. And yes, any Kepler or newer GPU (including the one built into the Shield) will upscale all the way to 4K, although the smaller ones won't be able to handle the most advanced algorithms. But unless you're a hardcore videophile, you'll be hard pressed to tell the difference between how well a high end GPU upscales as opposed to how well a smaller GPU upscales. Not surprising given that image scaling is just one of the most fundamental parts of 3D rendering.
mikie00mike said:
THIS IS AWESOME!! Thanks so much for this. Would you mind if I PM you later tonight when I get home from work? So would I also need a new router? Right now I have an Asus RTAC66U dual band. I also have a WD My Cloud EX4 that I stream videos from, would that need to be replaced also? I will PM you later if ok. Thanks again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I pm'd you some stuff.
Minty or Mike may I get a copy also please?
Minty I PMd you
Thanks!
mikie00mike said:
THIS IS AWESOME!! Thanks so much for this. Would you mind if I PM you later tonight when I get home from work? So would I also need a new router? Right now I have an Asus RTAC66U dual band. I also have a WD My Cloud EX4 that I stream videos from, would that need to be replaced also? I will PM you later if ok. Thanks again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thruster999 said:
Minty or Mike may I get a copy also please?
Minty I PMd you
Thanks!
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I have updated my config since I sent the details last, but I still duplex (or send multiple signals of the same HDMI source) to bypass the HDCP restrictions so I can continue to use my older soundbar. Picture with notes attached. Shout if you need anything more.
I just switched to using a new TV over the weekend that's (finally!) 4k.
If it matters, the TV is the bleeding new Vizio P65-C1 also a good write up on the TV can be found here.
When I plug the Shield TV directly into the TV via HDMI and go to the Shield's settings then HDMI, it detects and shows (Recommended) next to 4K 60hz, which is what I set it to.
I can play YouTube 4K videos, I can watch anything I want without issue on Plex or Kodi, I can play all of my usual Shield exclusive games like Doom 3 or Portal without issue but for whatever reason, Netflix will just not play anything. Not just 4K/UHD content, just any content. I can move around through the Netflix menus and browse for what I want to watch without issue but when I try to actually play something it has no audio and freezes and might jump forward in broken increments or will be 100% frozen on the screen. I can stop it without issue and the app is otherwise responsive and not frozen.
I can Cast Netflix content to my Shield TV and it works without issue also. Correction, I cannot cast Netflix to the Shield TV. Same issues as trying to play locally. I was accidentally casting to my TV directly, which does work without issue. Both my TV and y Shield TV are hard wired to my router directly via ethernet.
It's only when I try using the Netflix app that is built-in.
The thing I noticed when I Cast vs the native app is it shows a loading progress screen and can take a few seconds depending on the contents quality to hit 100% then start playing. It seems like the native Netflix app is not trying to cache the content and seems like it's trying to direct stream it, which it cannot keep up with for some reason.
The same happens with cartoons, older shows that at best are available in 1080P like X-files or of course UHD/4K content. There is no different in the behavior between the different source videos in the native app.
I have already created a support request directly with Nvidia but wanted to see if others have encountered this as well and have any suggestions on what I can try to fix it?
Correction, I cannot cast Netflix to the Shield TV. Same issues as trying to play locally. I was accidentally casting to my TV directly, which does work without issue. Both my TV and y Shield TV are hard wired to my router directly via ethernet.
Hey man... Finally got some sun in Atlanta?? What a nice day....
Anyways...see the link below I answered for somebody else, see it applies to you. They key is HDCP2.2 compatible equipment all along your video signal, Shield (which is), receiver, TV input. If any isn't, it won't work.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/shield-tv/help/netflix-4k-issue-t3291720
MrBungle67 said:
Hey man... Finally got some sun in Atlanta?? What a nice day....
Anyways...see the link below I answered for somebody else, see it applies to you. They key is HDCP2.2 compatible equipment all along your video signal, Shield (which is), receiver, TV input. If any isn't, it won't work.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/shield-tv/help/netflix-4k-issue-t3291720
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It was a beautiful pollen coated day today
I checked and sure enough the TV does support HDCP2.2. Though it also notes that while it's HDMI 2.0, it's not enabled yet and will be coming soon in a firmware upgrade. Makes me wonder if that'll fix this once it's available.
I'm still going back and forth with Nvidia as well but so far nothing other than answering some questions and sending them some logs.
From your TV user manual:
When connecting a HDMI 2.0 device, HDMI Color Subsampling needs to be enabled to support 4K resolution at 60hz.
reTARDIS said:
Though it also notes that while it's HDMI 2.0, it's not enabled yet and will be coming soon in a firmware upgrade.
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Statement not correct... It support HDMI 2.0 out of the box. It's the HDMI 2.0a support that will be coming via a firmware upgrade.
the.teejster said:
From your TV user manual:
When connecting a HDMI 2.0 device, HDMI Color Subsampling needs to be enabled to support 4K resolution at 60hz.
Statement not correct... It support HDMI 2.0 out of the box. It's the HDMI 2.0a support that will be coming via a firmware upgrade.
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Ah, good catch. I'm not as up to date on the HDMI specs/standards these days.
I'm guessing then that HDCP2.2 should work out of the box though but will contact Vizio support to confirm.
Just curious...have you tried different HDMI inputs?
"The new P-Series models will include: four HDMI 2.0a/HDCP 2,2 inputs, plus one additional HDMI that handles 4k/60p at 4:2:0, although it is listed as HDMI 1.4, Vizio told us. The HDMI 2.0a inputs will allow the Vizio displays to connect to new Ultra HD Blu-ray players to stream 4K with HDR10 metadata, something earlier Vizio 4K UHDTVs have lacked"
Are you connected to that "one" input?
MrBungle67 said:
Just curious...have you tried different HDMI inputs?
"The new P-Series models will include: four HDMI 2.0a/HDCP 2,2 inputs, plus one additional HDMI that handles 4k/60p at 4:2:0, although it is listed as HDMI 1.4, Vizio told us. The HDMI 2.0a inputs will allow the Vizio displays to connect to new Ultra HD Blu-ray players to stream 4K with HDR10 metadata, something earlier Vizio 4K UHDTVs have lacked"
Are you connected to that "one" input?
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According to Vizio's support "The tv supports HDCP 2.2 on all HDMI ports" so I'm not sure. The manual does not detail specific ports at all for HDCP.
@reTARDIS I just bought the same TV and am seeing the same issue. I noticed that if I change the Audio setting for the show I'm watching from "English 5.1" to "English" the show streams correctly. I'm not sure why this is happening either.
oracleicom said:
@reTARDIS I just bought the same TV and am seeing the same issue. I noticed that if I change the Audio setting for the show I'm watching from "English 5.1" to "English" the show streams correctly. I'm not sure why this is happening either.
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Interesting find. I'll test that on mine this evening.
@oracleicom I just tried this and confirmed it works for me as well. I send an update to Nvidia with this info to see what they have to say. Thanks for the workaround. It's not perfect but will do for the short term.
I would make sure you have a HDMI 2.0 cable (18Gb/sec), that's the only one that supports 4K @ 60fps with 4:4:4 chroma (color).
Use a port on the tv that supports HDMI 2.0.
I am having the same issue with Nvidia Shield and and the same TV. I was so excited when I got it today. I can also make it go with changing it english from 5.1. I had the Shield hooked up to a previous Vizio 4k TV and there was no issue. I am talking to Vizio support now and they want to blame the Shield even though it works fine with their previous 4K TV.
I also tested with my Nexus Player and it has the same issue.
@reTARDIS Did you ever get a reply from anyone at Vizio or Nvidia? On mine, everything but Netflix works fine, so maybe it is something that Netflix can fix in their Android TV app.
Correction, both Google Play Movies & TV and Netflix have the issue. Nvidia is saying it is Vizio's issue and Vizio is saying it is Nvidia's issue. I pointed out the Nexus Player has the same issue with the new Vizio and they have not replied.
reverik said:
@reTARDIS Did you ever get a reply from anyone at Vizio or Nvidia? On mine, everything but Netflix works fine, so maybe it is something that Netflix can fix in their Android TV app.
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They've really not given any indication that they have a clear understanding on what is happening and every time I ask for an update, if they reply at all, it's just to say that they're still researching the issue.
They recently suggested that I test the following.
SHIELD TV HDMI out -> Vizio P65-C1 -> Vizio P65-C1 HDMI ARC to Pioneer SC-1522K
Initially, I didn't think this would work as I had thought TV's did not output anything via HDMI and could only input but after doing some further reading today into HDMI and ARC, I think it might work to output just audio from my TV via HDMI to the receiver using one of the HDMI ports that supports ARC but I have not yet tried this.
As a backup solution, I just ordered this USB to Optical audio adapter last night that others have said works with the Shield TV to output audio via USB to TOSLINK. The device includes a TOSLINK to SPDIF adapter. I plan on just using this to output SPDIF directly to my receiver to bypass the Vizio TV to see if this resolves the issue or not. I will update later once I've tested it out.
I'll report back my findings with both test.
Update: The same issue exist with the USB to SPDIF/Optical adapter straight into the SPDIF/Optical input on my receiver (bypassing the TV for audio).
I'm at a loss for what to try next and the issue has not gone away.
Update: I figured out how to make ARC via HDMI work from my TV to my receiver over the weekend and am now only using audio out for all devices connect to my TV via HDMI then out via the ARC HDMI port on my TV (HDMI 1) and into the ARC input on my Pioneer receiver. While audio works without issue for any connected device and the Shield TV in general, the same issue exist as before with 5.1 audio playback from Netflix on the Shield TV.
I also did a factory reset on my Shield TV this past weekend but sadly it didn't change/fix the issue which still persist.
I just cast to my TV now for Netflix and avoid using the Netflix app on the Shield TV.