Does anyone else find it annoying that the camera sticks out on the bottom? I'm much more concerned with scratching the camera (which I don't think is Gorilla Glass) than I am with the screen. So, if I have the case off (which I take off sometimes to use an aux cable), and set the phone down, it's sitting right on the camera. Or, I can have it sit right on the screen, which I generally opt to do.
I think it's frustrating that the back plate is so easy to remove, that using a case is almost unnecessary (and I hate using cases), but the camera is what the phone rests on, not the back plate, something much more difficult to replace, and making a case basically necessary.
use the s-view cover, it will increase the thickness and level it out.
p.s. or may be try the extended battery, may be it can do the same thing
Related
Hi,
The speaker on the outside of my universal (the onw you hold against your ear with when the screen is on the inside) is broken.
That started as something like a bad contact (if I pressed the phone against my ear it would work, otherwise not). Now it is not working at all.
The speaker on the LCD side is working fine.
The advice I want:
I took a look at the service manual PDF I got and disassembling the phone to reach that speaker is a lot of work. I do have experience with diassembling electronic devices and even do some soldering, etc. However, my doubt is this: I have a phone which does work, but the way I like to use it to make calls does not work.
Question 1
Is it worth the trouble to diasassemble the whole device just to check if it is indeed a bad contact due to i.e. dirt? Or will I actually risk breaking something off, which will render the complete phone useless? Looking at the service manual, one needs to use a plastic tool to actually open the phone. How easy do the hinges break off?
Question 2
Has anyone had a similar problem? Was it easy to fix?
Thank you!
Cheers,
vma
you dont need to disassemble the whole phone just disassemble the screen . It isnt that hard to do, just remove all the screws from the screen . The screen casing is difficult to budge at first but once you have freed part of it open, the rest follows quite easily.
Hi,
Meanwhile I couldn't resist and opened it...
...and I found the guilty part.
It seems that the outside speaker is actually attached to the case and uses a contact connection to the PCB. This connection is made by to metal plates, which are tiny and folded. They will compensate the varying pressure made on the case (i.e. when you press it) and I guess with time they tend to break at the fold.
This happend to one of the two contacts. First I tried to fix it, but the truth is that it is so small that it is quite impossible to do anything about it. I considered soldering a small wire, but that would require to solder the other end to the pin on the PCB, which then would mean, I could no longer use a regular replacement speaker, if this one had any other fault (unless I could clean the contact again, but trying that, I could break something else, also).
This means: now I am not able to use the outside speaker anymore...
Question: where can I purchase a replacement one? Would anyone sell me one from a broken Universal (for a symbolic price - anything over 10 Euro is too much, as I would prefer to just buy a another second hand Universal)?
And as I was figuring this out, I used the occation to fix that loose stylus!
1) Open the underside case (4 screws, then open the case all around with some thin plastic).
2) Roll a little bit of celotape and place it between the case and the pin that fixes the stylus in position.
3) Try it out until it is OK.
4) Close the case and that's it!
Cheers,
vma
Hi buddy, in fact I did have the same problem that you're having some months ago, my uni fell and since then the problem just got worst, until some day a couple months ago I opened it and fix it.
It's just like you say, the little golden plated contacts wore off, then the little speaker's metal plates just were too high to make any contact against the pcb, it's really simple, just pull the plates gently away from the little speaker, do clean both sides of the contacts (pcb and speaker's plates), i did this with a little xacto knife (be very gentle), and that's it! It worked just fine.
The problem is that in my case one of the metal plates broke off.
I tried to fix that, but it is to small for me to achive anything.
Cheers,
vma
ok so, ive noticed recently that my TMO MDA, takes a while to load correctly on an incoming call, because it has to rotate the display, even tho i put it in normally.
turns out...
my case has magnets at the top, and no matter how i put the fone in, it will pick up that magnet, and rotate itself, then rotate back. WHY?????????
i was thinking that i could just like basically find the component ( if ur looking at the back, its toward the bottom left, behind the stylus holder) and remove it.
but maybe theres a better way?
any thoughts?
wouldn't it be easier to take the magnets out of the case? replace them with velcro or something? I certainly wouldn't alter my phone so it works with the case.
That's because the sensor is a reed switch. When the keyboard slides out, a magnet on the keyboard moves close enough to the switch in the other half of the phone to activate it.
Removing the switch (even if you found it - they can be really tiny) would result in phone screen not rotating with keyboard slided out, and you probably wouldn't want it, would you? I'd say to modify the case with velcro or some diffrent locking mechanism, or get another case instead.
that would make sense
ima try to modify my case then. thanks for the immediate response!
Hey anyone already opened up their HD2? I need to open mine since my back button got stuck while my baby girl tried to press too hard on it. Now the back button feels like it's not presing at all compared to the other buttons.
i also have a spare housing that I am thinking of putting in.
Anyone can point me to the right direction?
Thanks
i've had the back off mine.
first search youtube for leo disassembly and you'll find an htc disassembly video: "leo Ds" (and another "leo As" for reassembly). they are somewhat daunting, but do not despair!
mine came back from a htc warranty service with a fingerprint on the inside of the lens glass and i couldn't be bothered sending it back again for cleaning so i did it myself. cracking the case isn't all that easy, or wasn't for me.
after you remove the 4 screws (get the void sticker and moisture indicator out with a pin), you still have to unclip the back from the chassis. WHY do electronics manufacturers design them like that??! in the video the tech uses a plastic hooked tool which i do not possess so i had to rely on my fingernails -- which i nearly pulled out! i tried for a good 15 minutes before it finally separated (with me sweating all the way that i was going to damage the LCD with the force i was having to apply). but it all finished happily in the end.
good luck with yours!
Not sure if it's worth it.
1st things 1st, watch the video on youtube..
.
Assuming u broke the keypad (just like me, but mine is right in the middle) at about the 6th minute of the disassembly video, they'll show u where u'd be replacing the keypad.
Removing the 'lcm and follow the indicator' isnt as simple as it look. you'd find the glue to be really tough. Putting it in an oven, sure, it'd be hot to the touch, and let it cool down a bit it'd be hard again. Hairdryer? Still too hot. Gloves?u'll lose touch sesitivity. So what i did was use a small blade/box cutter and cut which ever visible glue... and assembling, i had to replace all the double sided tape with some cheap ones...weak ones. Could be a good thing.. or a bad thing. Good, cos i know i dont have to wrestle with some really tough glue..in case i ruined my lcd again.... bad.. cos its..not that secure, i rmember that i nearly ripped it open unintentionally!
Neway replacing my digitizer+lcd took about 3 hours...had a couple of breaks, and spent 15 mins looking for the proximity sensor or was it the ambient light sense 'lense'..very tiny things those things are. So be careful...cos i eventually lost it..grrr
Anyway, Best of luck.. .now to find a replacement keypad that cost less than 5usd..hehe
dsx2b said:
1st things 1st, watch the video on youtube..
spent 15 mins looking for the proximity sensor or was it the ambient light sense 'lense'..very tiny things those things are. So be careful...cos i eventually lost it..grrr5usd..hehe
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
a good tip here is to work with the phone in a large tupperware box so that if something drops out it can't go anywhere.
note to the OP: i've read several posts where people damaged the ribbon cable connecting the bottom buttons to the mainboard so be careful. it looks very delicate.
Having just opened mine up several times recently I can offer a couple of tips.
1. Unscrew the four screws - they are T5 torx size.
2. Use thin stiff plastic pieces (I found the plastic case that nails are sold in to be the right stiffness and thickness). Cut some up and push them between the case and the phone works so that they hold each of the locking tabs out in turn. I used five or six bits to do this. Three on the vol control side, two at the top and one on the top area of the other side.
3. Then pushing out at the top where the battery would sit while prying with finger nails outward on the long vol control side you can work each of the locking tabs out so the plastic bits hold them unlocked. Do this along that side, across the top and down the other side working each one a little bit as you go and repeat.
4. This should allow the top edge to come out allowing you to lift is out and "up" so that the button end slides out.
This worked very well for me..several times.
The display is held to the electronics portion by double sided tape and yes it is very strong. But you can soften the adhesion significantly using a heat gun. But you must be careful to heat the whole area to avoid thermal differences cracking the screen. The heat will loosen the tapes grip allowing you to pry the screen away from the electronics side.
Note that the screen is made up of the LCD covered by the glued on digitizer and they are connected with a single ribbon cable on the lower right hand side (I think from memory). This means the screen has to lift off with a hinge action. Lifting along the opposite long edge to the ribbon cable, rather than lift from the top or bottom.
Hope this helps.
Hi, I tried to open mine and followeed the video, be careful as the video makes it look much easier than what it really is, I ended up ruining my device, just take your time and do it slowly.
Thanks guys! Gonna try it over the weekend. Worst case is that I break my case or put some cosmetic damage. I have a spare case though hehe.
The problem about the key is the back button feels stuck.... the other buttons are snappy and have a tactile sort of feel, where as the back button doesn't have the same feel. looks like it was pressed to hard and never popped back up...
just annoying when i've been very careful with the phone.
ok looks like i wouldn't have to open my phone.... i tried to but then there's a warranty void sticker, so I just called tmobile and explained about the back key being stuck.... and they're sending me a replacement.
i'm gonna lose my invisible shield full body though... but better than risking breaking my phone....
I'm hoping somebody with some knowledge of the HD2's innards can help me...
My vibration stopped working on my HD2. I found the plastic LED flash cover to be 'pushed in' (with the help of a couple xda threads I dug up). Others said it was an easy fix: Open the case and push that piece of plastic back into place.
I opened up the case to correct it. But after putting it back together not only does vibrate not work, but the volume keys, speakers (both earpiece and speakerphone), flash, notification led, and camera all don't work.
I obviously screwed something up, but I have no clue what it could have been. I was very careful. One thing I'll note is that when I pulled the case apart, the plastic volume rocker went flying. When putting the phone back together I got it back into place so that I THOUGHT it should work (it was seated properly and felt "clicky" for up/down movements.
But clearly wasn't just the volume rocker that was affected. It doesn't seem that I pulled anything else loose or anything like that...
But no luck, all that I listed above is non functional, and what I'm left with is a glorified 3.5 in tablet
Any ideas?? Thanks in advance!!!
Snapped a couple quick pics which may help:
http://i50.tinypic.com/mmsa36.jpg
http://i47.tinypic.com/sl1kdx.jpg
Unfortunately when comparing these to other pictures of the inside of the HD2 that I found online, I fail to see any differences, or anything I could have inadvertently screwed up.
Most likely you screwed up(or disconnected from motherboard) somehow your main flexboard, but your picture are not usable for this, you should take off your motherboard+main flexboard from chassis to have a full view!
You probobly just disconnected a small cable. I have no idea of the HD2 innards but did multiple repairs of small stuffs and the flat cables hold in place by a plastic clicker pull out easily - just reopen and check them all, you should be fine.
Thanks for the input! I figured it's something like that, just one small cable. But I didn't even take off the board at all... The pictures show the full extent of the disassembly... Do we still think it's necessary to disassemble it further?
I checked all visible connections, but yeah, maybe I somehow yanked out something that is NOT visible. I'll try to check again today... In the meantime, any more ideas from anyone else? Thanks!
For al that to be not responding I would assume main-flex damaged or as mention before maybe connection to mainboard got moved during pulling cover !
Volume button can be troublesome, sometimes the little plastic caps come off but if it felt clicky should be good in that respect.
also be very carefull of thin spring metal legs that contact antenna pads on back cover, one near screw above & right of vibro motor looks a to be a bit flat. They bend easily & break easily too ...
Have u tried starting up the phone without the backing? I had this issue when I painted my housing the led cover was stopping the motor from spinning but if i took out the backing it works. So I just trimmed the led cover and now it works.
Mister B said:
For al that to be not responding I would assume main-flex damaged or as mention before maybe connection to mainboard got moved during pulling cover !
Volume button can be troublesome, sometimes the little plastic caps come off but if it felt clicky should be good in that respect.
also be very carefull of thin spring metal legs that contact antenna pads on back cover, one near screw above & right of vibro motor looks a to be a bit flat. They bend easily & break easily too ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm nooby with regard to this stuff; I only attempted the repair since I read in a couple other threads about multiple self-proclaimed non-super-tech savvy people were able to open it up and move the plastic LED cover for an easy fix.
So what exactly am I looking for with regard to the main-flex? Where is it? I thought I wouldn't really see that unless I removed the board which I haven't done... is it still possible I knocked it loose or damaged it? I didn't think that would be possible since I ONLY removed the back cover (though it does take a slightly uncomfortable amount of force to do so, so I guess anything can happen...).
If not the main flex cable, is there anything else specific to look at which may be disconnected? It seems to be all the stuff at the top of the phone that fails to work (camera, speakers, vibration, flash, volume keys). While the stuff on the bottom (other hardware buttons, charging jack, headphone jack, etc).
THanks!
I have given up. After being stumped briefly how to hard reset the device without the volume keys working (I have Android installed), I was able to do it via ADB from the Android dev kit.
To ebay I go...
Alright, I didn't make this fix, but I don't remember who did, but it was someone in a youtube comment. Before attempting this, are you sure your charger isn't just dirty? If it is dirty, it's preventing the rubber o-ring from getting a good seal. Take a piece of tape that won't leave a residue, and take off as much dirt as you can. If it still slips, try this fix. Okay, so the fix goes like this:
1. Turn your charging orb upside down. There should be a rubber ring on the bottom that prevents the orb from slipping, and it puts it at an angle. Remove it, but don't throw it out, and try to keep the adhesive intact.
2. There should be two small black tabs on the rubber ring. Cut these off with an exacto knife or a similar tool.
3. Turn the ring 180 degrees from where it was before, and carefully apply the ring, making sure there are no bends or bubbles in the ring.. This way the thicker end should be facing the front, makes the angle a bit less obtuse.
4. Give your nexus 4 a good wipe, so there's no dirt on that, and put it on your charger. It shouldn't slip anymore! I hope that this helped you. It did for me!