Hi
Good news , you don't have to take it apart or touch any screw, you can fix it even with phone working..
But watch out for the adhesive between layers not to get on actual contacts.
I have got adhesive on contacts and i had to dissasemble the phone, isolate the keyboard and clean all adhesive with isopropyl alcohol. Lucky me.
This guide will cover following problems when pressing the keys:
The key needs to be pressed hard to register
The key doesn't register at all
The key registers two times when pressed hard
You will need a sharp knife.
The problem does not come from dust.
Gently remove the black cover starting ftom right , near that charging port
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This is what you get
Gently remove this Layer
Now watch out for this flex that goes under the contacts
Edit: this flex does not seem to affect kb functionaity but leave it there just in case
And remove this layer----this has the actual problem
Now you will see 4 heads in the middle of the metal part that is actually touching the contacts
With a sharp knife press on the center of the metal part to make a small pit/cavity, something like those 4 pits/cavity, but NOT an actual hole.
WARNING dont do this on the phone, this layer must be removed from the phone.
Now you will see that the metal part tends to stay pressed, now you come from behind an do the same until it comes FIRMLY back
Also don't abuse that methal part because in the end the key feedback may differ from other keys.
Now put everything back watching for this flex
Edit: the flexible tab seems to have all the keys connected and i think it has ground (negative polarity) on it to help on key press,
like the situation when that metal touchs only the centre flex contact.
And you should have a perfectly functional key
It might be harder to press, so press once harder and it will level out with other keys.
But.. if u are some of those lucky enough to really mess up that metal part you can always
1.Switch metal parts with keys that you never use.. like menu or search or sym.. there must be one that you didn't touch in the last month. )
2.Borrow that part from retired phones like i did in the following photos
In the last image you can see clearly that i cut that thing from htc vox's keyboard and i glued it there with paper glue
Paper glue will do the job, don't try with poxipol or other hard adhesives for metal wood or anything like that.
Now the key must have the good old feedback.
if the black rubber does not stick or even falls off you can put paper glue on the left and right of all the keys (those two big empty spaces on sides) between al layers,
After i used all those methods i really recommend the last two ones (switch or replace) because it's quite hard to make it have perfect feedback and last for a good amount of time with that feedback.
Dont forget to thank if i helped you .
I attached the images in case they are removed and also posted a link to dropbox below.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/47380813/Keyboard fix by XCT.zip
Update:
you can take those metal clickers from pcb buttons too
Props very detailed guide! :good:
I've got no problems with my keyboard what so ever, but placed this post in my bookmarks just in case.
Nice guide!
I had this problem twice.
It's related to humidity.
Both time, I had this issue after a trip to mexico. 60 to 80% HR, is way to high for this phone I guess.
Back to my place, the keyboard took few days to get working well again.
Same problem on my gf phone (motorola milestone)
oVeRdOsE. said:
Nice guide!
I had this problem twice.
It's related to humidity.
Both time, I had this issue after a trip to mexico. 60 to 80% HR, is way to high for this phone I guess.
Back to my place, the keyboard took few days to get working well again.
Same problem on my gf phone (motorola milestone)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i can't really explain myself how any humidity can get inside the keyboard where the contacts are made.
It's simply too well sealed.
I had a problem with E letter because since it's a vowel it's used most of the times especially in romanian.
And that metal thing got loose.
I have the same problem.
I'll try this out - I would normally take it for warranty repair, but I expect proving it malfunctioning might be a challenge - plus, I dropped it to concrete the other day and it's scratched so they will give me trouble if I take it like this.
nz_ said:
I have the same problem.
I'll try this out - I would normally take it for warranty repair, but I expect proving it malfunctioning might be a challenge - plus, I dropped it to concrete the other day and it's scratched so they will give me trouble if I take it like this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
get it to warranty, i had a digitizer problem and earlier i dropped it on the pavement.
they repaired my phone and no one said anything. they even stated there that the phone was hit and guess what.. they changed my case too!
so if u have the warranty, it's worth a try.
In that case, I'll give it a shot.
It fell and got scratched pretty nasty in the corner, so I do expect problems, but we'll see
It worked!
Thank you very much.. (but I still have ordered a new phone )
Thanks for the tutorial. It helped me fix my 'E' button.
the flexi spreads the background lights to the other buttons. So its better to replace the flexi when you are done with repairing.
very Helpful Thank you for your effort.
OzgurAda said:
Thanks for the tutorial. It helped me fix my 'E' button.
the flexi spreads the background lights to the other buttons. So its better to replace the flexi when you are done with repairing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you must have two left hands if you've done that...
edit:uhm sorry i missunderstood that u messed that phone
A quick note to give @XCT my greatest thanks for this procedure. It worked extremely successfully! The keyboard is actually more sensitive now than when it was new!
Here are some notes:
1) I found using sharp safety pin was best for releasing the keyboard surround without causing any cosmetic damage, and then lifting up with knife edge
2) I used some electrical contact cleaner/de-oxydiser with cotton bud to clean all the contact pads underneath and also the electrical pads on PCB.
3) The flexible tab in photo 6 doesn't affect the keyboard light at all. Be very careful to align the different layers when re-assembling keyboard otherwise the key illumination won't be completely correct.
4) When pressing the underside contacts (the ones that touch PCB), just give a quick but firm press on the centre of each with your sharp knife tip. I found doing this on flexible magazine was best!
Photopuppet said:
A quick note to give @XCT my greatest thanks for this procedure. It worked extremely successfully! The keyboard is actually more sensitive now than when it was new!
Here are some notes:
1) I found using sharp safety pin was best for releasing the keyboard surround without causing any cosmetic damage, and then lifting up with knife edge
2) I used some electrical contact cleaner/de-oxydiser with cotton bud to clean all the contact pads underneath and also the electrical pads on PCB.
3) The flexible tab in photo 6 doesn't affect the keyboard light at all. Be very careful to align the different layers when re-assembling keyboard otherwise the key illumination won't be completely correct.
4) When pressing the underside contacts (the ones that touch PCB), just give a quick but firm press on the centre of each with your sharp knife tip. I found doing this on flexible magazine was best!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you're welcome!
the flexible tab seems to have all the keys connected and i think it has ground (negative polarity) on it to help on key press,
like the situation when that metal touchs only the centre flex contact.
buildings mpaeou
Those precision tools sure are nice!
Thank you @xtc, thank you, thank you!
My keyboard is fine now
Thank you XCT.
I was searching the internet for a new keyboard, but your guide fixed it alright. It's not as responsive as a new one, but it works way better than before.
edimonoarfa said:
Thank you @xtc, thank you, thank you!
My keyboard is fine now
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm glad i did help you
Pea. said:
Thank you XCT.
I was searching the internet for a new keyboard, but your guide fixed it alright. It's not as responsive as a new one, but it works way better than before.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try to take that metal part from another old phone. I've been in the same situation like you and i was thinking to switch that metal part from another key that i haven't been using, like sym or menu or search key (that is an option too if you really don't have another phone around) but i took it from a htc vox and it happend to be the same shape and feel.
Never settle for less.
Thanks for the lovely guide.
Mine (a e k) were not working properly. Especially key k needed to be pressed twice. And e and a used to get double by itself. But now with this guide, i have repaired them.
Thanks... Even writing this post with my DZ keyboard.
Sent from my HTC Vision using xda app-developers app
Thankyou for the wonderful guide.
Thank you very much!
I also have problems with the letter e and started using less and less the physical keyboard.
Now it's working perfectly :good:
Related
Just wanted to let you all know that I successfully repaired the loose keyboard tracks last night following the directions posted by Mike channon and the internal pictures(Japanese site) of my 8525. It does void your warranty as there is sticker you have to remove to get to a screw(torx) which you most likely can't remove without tearing. I glued the rubber stoppers on the runners and man oh man It's AWESOME! Really have to apply some pressure to open the slider now. I'd be happy to help with instructions or advice for anyone considering attempting this.
Abductd said:
Just wanted to let you all know that I successfully repaired the loose keyboard tracks last night following the directions posted by Mike channon and the internal pictures(Japanese site) of my 8525. It does void your warranty as there is sticker you have to remove to get to a screw(torx) which you most likely can't remove without tearing. I glued the rubber stoppers on the runners and man oh man It's AWESOME! Really have to apply some pressure to open the slider now. I'd be happy to help with instructions or advice for anyone considering attempting this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ahhh.. another satisfied customer Well done and yeah it does work well. First time, when I was setting up this fix I made the small rubber pieces a fraction thick and had a somewhat bulgy looking screen assembly - still that was easily sorted. It's now 6 months and still as firm as when I did it. (NB. the small rubber pieces are only required in severe cases where the runner has burst open at the micro welds)
by the way Abductd - it is good and useful to get feedback, thank you.
Cheers
Mike
Where are those pics? I'm trying to fix this issue also but I'd like to see some pics first.
Thank you!
hmotwr said:
Where are those pics? I'm trying to fix this issue also but I'd like to see some pics first.
Thank you!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dismantling instructions in the Service Manual and Video here:
www.mikechannon.net
Mike
Abductd said:
Just wanted to let you all know that I successfully repaired the loose keyboard tracks last night following the directions posted by Mike channon and the internal pictures(Japanese site) of my 8525. It does void your warranty as there is sticker you have to remove to get to a screw(torx) which you most likely can't remove without tearing. I glued the rubber stoppers on the runners and man oh man It's AWESOME! Really have to apply some pressure to open the slider now. I'd be happy to help with instructions or advice for anyone considering attempting this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well what you know, I too did the same last night on my SPV M3100, good instrucions Mike! However I did not have to resort to glueing rubber stoppers all I did was applied little bit more harder tap with 2mm flat head watchmakers screwdriver on the indents enough to give it a firm click when keyboard closed, I'm now a very happy customer after this simple modification my spv m3100 feels a lot more sturdier and even more happy as my warranty is not void becuase I carefully removed the void sticker with a fine needle and stuck it back on as it was, quite happy with my handy work it's as if it was never opened. I guess it helps to have a good background in micro electronics servicing likewise if anyone needs advise more then happy to assist having said that if you follow Mike's instructions word for word you really can't go wrong
gfreek said:
Well what you know, I too did the same last night on my SPV M3100, good instrucions Mike! However I did not have to resort to glueing rubber stoppers all I did was applied little bit more harder tap with 2mm flat head watchmakers screwdriver on the indents enough to give it a firm click when keyboard closed, I'm now a very happy customer after this simple modification my spv m3100 feels a lot more sturdier and even more happy as my warranty is not void becuase I carefully removed the void sticker with a fine needle and stuck it back on as it was, quite happy with my handy work it's as if it was never opened. I guess it helps to have a good background in micro electronics servicing likewise if anyone needs advise more then happy to assist having said that if you follow Mike's instructions word for word you really can't go wrong
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well done - and very pleased it worked. Yes, you do not need the tiny rubber blocks - except when the micro welds around the runner have popped open - as in some cases they have. The rubber blocks hold it together if you have this slightly more extreme case. Also, they help to prevent the runner welds from popping open and if they do you would not need to dismantle again. But I agree, it's probably overkill for those whose runners just need a firmer click and aren't sprung open.
So pleased it's good now
Edit: Here's a pic of what's being talked about:
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Here you see the micro welds that may be in tact, but if not then the rubber block (shown above) can be added. This would be in addition to increasing the pre-existing indent that is covered by the rubber in the picture. The metal is relatively thin and when increasing the indent care should be taken not to over do it - else you might never open your keyboard again . Don't be fooled by the size of the rubber block shown - it appears quite large in the picture but in fact is only a couple of mm thick. Too thick and the screen assembly will bulge!
Mike
Thanks Mike, your site is very helpful, I've forwarded it to a few friends that have the same problem.
Another one fixed
Well I now know that dismantling a Hermes is not for the faint of heart, but I'm here to say it can be done. Keyboard stays closed now, just as it should.
Thanks much for the instuctions, Mike!
vp3G said:
Well I now know that dismantling a Hermes is not for the faint of heart, but I'm here to say it can be done. Keyboard stays closed now, just as it should.
Thanks much for the instuctions, Mike!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am pleased it has worked out well for you
Mike
I read.
I did.
I failed.
turns out that part is pretty flimsy where the runner snaps in. it must have fractured from being dropped because it snapped right off when i pryed a bit.
Heres my modded sliders.
Notched each snap at the ends with tiny screwdriver and tiny hammer till it snapped well. Then I VERY carefully wrapped a VERY small strip of tape at each end to make the slide fit firmly into the housing. I had previously noticed it wobbling a bit.
I also applied small strips of tape along the outer runners where the slider attached to the lower housing, there is 1 hard silicone strip (white) on each side. I added tape opposite the silicone to narrow its sliding path.
All these combined make for VERY tight sliding, firm snap. This thing used to be quite loose, fix really works.
PS-oh yea superglue took care of the fracture. ;-)
EDIT by Mikechannon.
The above pics have vanished, but here's a pic of one of the sliders showing the notch/indent near the the end:
@randomtask16
Well done, works well doesn't it along with your added things for your particular situation.
Nice picture of the runner and indent. Can I use it?
Mike
mikechannon said:
@randomtask16
Well done, works well doesn't it along with your added things for your particular situation.
Nice picture of the runner and indent. Can I use it?
Mike
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Of course!
Slider still works great, hasn't become looser yet. Though my faulty face buttons issue has persisted...not sure what to try next.
Hello, I opened the phone to deepen the indents but I didnt take out the sliders completely. It didnt work very well . I was also scared of breaking the metal and in the end I didnt apply much force. I still noticed a little diference in the keyboard but im going back in to make the dips deeper.
I have a problem though. After putting the phone back together i noticed that the down button on the d-pad sticks now . When Im in contacts and press the down button it begins to fly down the contacts and doesnt stop. I've had to use the scroll wheel. Is this because I didnt put the phone back together correctly? If it is im not sure what I did or how to fix it when I try again. Need some help
di5c1pl3 said:
Hello, I opened the phone to deepen the indents but I didnt take out the sliders completely. It didnt work very well . I was also scared of breaking the metal and in the end I didnt apply much force. I still noticed a little diference in the keyboard but im going back in to make the dips deeper.
I have a problem though. After putting the phone back together i noticed that the down button on the d-pad sticks now . When Im in contacts and press the down button it begins to fly down the contacts and doesnt stop. I've had to use the scroll wheel. Is this because I didnt put the phone back together correctly? If it is im not sure what I did or how to fix it when I try again. Need some help
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
First, when you dismantle again I suggest testing those runners/sliders by moving the sliding part back and forth over the indents, BEFORE putting it all back tpogether.
I don't think your d-pad issue is a big problem. Probably just a bit of misalignment when you re-assembled it. I think it will correct itself if you ensure everything is sitting flat (well seated) when re-assembling.
Good luck (press or tap a little more firmly on the indents this time. But don't go mad!)
Mike
I agree Im glad to hear that the button thing isnt a big deal. And thanks for the quick reply. I'll let you know how it goes
Wooohhooo!!! Nice tight keyboard !! No more sticky button Thanks alot!
hi mike.
i opened 2 times my hermes, but never managed to make the sliders tighter.
i gently tapped the indents, but no improvement.
I tried to understand what is the "ribbon improvement" but really i have not understood what i need to do!
simply adding a piece of ribbon of 2 mm over the indents??
can you simply explain what it will be on my sliders?
Thanks
Gtazok
gtazok said:
hi mike.
i opened 2 times my hermes, but never managed to make the sliders tighter.
i gently tapped the indents, but no improvement.
I tried to understand what is the "ribbon improvement" but really i have not understood what i need to do!
simply adding a piece of ribbon of 2 mm over the indents??
can you simply explain what it will be on my sliders?
Thanks
Gtazok
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi
First increasing the indent depth will work by itself IF the little micro welds that hold the runner together are in tact (i.e. have not sprung apart)
Try tapping a bit harder on the indents AND test them before you put everything back together. (Sounds like you are not tapping/pressing hard enough)
See the little embossed indents - they need depened a fraction to make the keyboard lock in the closed and open position.
There are 2 runners (sliders) with 4 indents (two for keyboard open two for closed)
Dismantling instructions in the Service Manual and Video here:
www.mikechannon.net
IF the micro welds have broken apart,
this is when you need the small chunks of rubber (not ribbon) at the points where the indents are. The purpose of these is to hold the runner firmly together when it is all put back together. (If you have access to equipment to re spot weld the runner this would of course be better. Do not make the rubber blocks to thick or you will find the screen assembly will bulge unacceptably when you re-assemble.
Hope this helps
Mike
Just to add on, another satisfied follower of the guide. Now it's no longer as loose. Thanks Michael!
First, it'd like to thank
MikeChannon
for pointing out something important that narrowed down my testing.
Now, onto the problem Symptoms :
- D-Pad, IE and Email buttons cease to work
- Screen fades to white or comes back from standby as white
- Display is slight disaligned to the side, 1mm of left appears on right side.
- Randomness in all above symptoms.
Cause : It is the D-Pad connector.
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Yes, the D-Pad connection DOES cause the whitescreen. It's odd and illogical, but this is the conclusion I have reached.
ALL the previous guides, such as sliding plastic between the screen and casing, were randomly moving things inside.
By CHANCE ONLY it'd affect the D-Pad connector positively. That is why such solutions only worked for a few people temporarely.
SOLUTION :
You will need to try variants of the following things :
- Tightness of the screws over the connector
- Disconnecting the plug and reconnecting it very carefully
- Pressure over the bibbon between the D-Pad connector and the screen.
- Pressure over the D-Pad connector itself
- Tightness of the screws over the D-Pad PCD
- Tightness of the screws closing the plastic casing of this part of the phone
To stress-test the variants, I ran a D-Pad intensive game (Skyforce) for 30 minutes or until the symptoms came back.
I've played around with all those, giving mixed results, but definitively making a difference.
My final and best result was by putting a thin foam piece over the blue parts in the picture below. (Ignore the red circles, original picture is taken from a website)
The foam I used was the typical foam sheets you find in packaging for fragile electronics such as motherboards, hard drives, graphic cards etc. It has to be super thing in other to close the casing without buldges.
There isn't a specific thing you can do that will make your D-Pad be reliable and the whitescreen to go away. You'll have to do several tests, so I recommend you keep your phone disassembled while testing. The connector is VERY VERY SENSITIVE. That is why I cannot be any more precise in how to fix this. However, you NOW KNOW what causes the screen to freak out and buttons to stop working.
What I did for testing :
I have tested my phone while it was completely disassembled. Meaning I had the back of the monitor open, as seen in the picture above.
That way, I could fiddle around and instantly test the result.
I've fiddle with the cables, the screen pressure, everything. Nothing returned the screen from being white or becoming white.
Putting pressure D-Pad connector's ribbon or actual pin caused the screen to either turn on white, or fade to white. (Results often noticed only after going in & out of standby)
It also caused my D-Pad buttons and the top 2 buttons (IE & Email) to either work or not work.
Oh and this is my testing setup. Elastic band to hold the battery in place, everything else opened. However, I had to place/remove the backcover of the screen part of the phone to test as it affects the pressure put on the connector.
wow. I don't have balls to break apart my 8525 like that.
mutantblack said:
wow. I don't have balls to break apart my 8525 like that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well this fix is for those who got a big enough problem and can't return it under warranty.
Anyhow, taking apart the TyTN is quite simple, and the thing is sturdy.
Only and only the D-Pad connector is tricky. The big ribbon connecting the two halfs of the phone is quite solid and never caused problems.
guys... what/where can i get the screw driver to open this mofo... it looks like a hex allen wrench but that doesnt work...
i have had this issue for months now and will try anything to fix it but i need to know where i can get this screw driver and fast!!!!
So it is a problem with the connector itself or cause by flex in the cable?
Also, where are you putty pressure on the connector? Are you saying if the screws are too tight this is a problem as well.
jwagman1 said:
guys... what/where can i get the screw driver to open this mofo... it looks like a hex allen wrench but that doesnt work...
i have had this issue for months now and will try anything to fix it but i need to know where i can get this screw driver and fast!!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's a TORX No6 screwdriver you need. Available online or from stores like Maplin who sell Phone screwdriver sets.
Check out links in the Wiki here or in my signature for internal pics, dismantling guides and to download the service manual (that also has a dismantling walkthrough)
Mike
Vasichko said:
So it is a problem with the connector itself or cause by flex in the cable?
Also, where are you putty pressure on the connector? Are you saying if the screws are too tight this is a problem as well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Seems to me there may be a bit of trial and error regarding the fix. The service manual points out that the d-pad connector must be precisely inserted and absolutely level. So both under-tightening the screws or over-tightening could distort the connection. If you have it apart, take out and reconnect the push in connector several times This helps to ensure there is no oxidisation on the contacts.
(PS. this is not my fix so I cannot testify that it will work for you, though I believe it is on the right track, at least for some cases of this problem)
Mike
It's really intersting to know I'm not alone to have this issue ...
Do you have a site who describe how to open the Hermes ?
Thanks
mikechannon said:
It's a TORX No6 screwdriver you need. Available online or from stores like Maplin who sell Phone screwdriver sets.
Check out links in the Wiki here or in my signature for internal pics, dismantling guides and to download the service manual (that also has a dismantling walkthrough)
Mike
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
THANK YOU!! amazon.com overnight!!! woooo
I tried this diy.
I didnt have a small enough phillips to remove the screws from the connector on the D-Pad.
Know where I can get one?
So I took all the connections, put some automotive electronic connection cleaner on a q-tip and cleaned all of the other ones.
I used some automotive light double sided adhesive that you can get at Auto Zone instead of form. I only used 1 side of the adhesive and didnt peal the other side off, if it doesnt work, its easily removeable, just wanted to make sure it stays in place when I re-assemble the phone.
I also added some in a place you didnt which I show in yellow on your photo.
So far so good after 5 minutes.
Mine PDA was also totally disassembled and atleast in my device the problem wasn't a faulty connector.. I had the front panel off and when I squeezed the Xilinx fpga-chip(black square on d-pad circuitboard) the the screen worked fine -when i took my fingers off it faded back to white. Earlier I also tried re-soldering the connector but it didnt work on my device.
marciton said:
It's really intersting to know I'm not alone to have this issue ...
Do you have a site who describe how to open the Hermes ?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dismantling guides and the service manual:
www.mikechannon.net
Mike
Hermes / TyTn / 8525 White Screen
Hey guy,
Nice write-up.
Good that someone has taken the time to experiment with different procedures.
I gave up on mine, after taking it apart time and time again.
-Reseating the cables and completely disassembling the unit was a tempereary fix, so I sold it on eBay for a parts / repair.
I just purchased another on eBay.
This time, instead of getting worked up about the white screen of death, I had purchased a warranty from www.squaretrade.com.
I am not an AT&T customer, so I unlocked the phone.
Neither AT&T or HTC can help when you dont have their service , or it's a branded phone.
Keep up the good work.
So far since my post before lunch today. No problems at all.
It used to white out when taking a picture with the camera, randomly when sliding out the keyboard, randomly when using the D-Pad.
No problems at all today after doing this fix posted here and adding the extra pad that I did.
im gonna have to try this when i get my new housing....anyone know where i can get a front camera?
Just giving another update. So far so good, no problems at all.
DPad no longer has the issue of not working here and there.
White screen issues appear to be gone.
Hopefully for good.
I will still post updates so you all can know the status.
Thx again for the right up. I will post some pics of the type of tape I used as well.
I have the rest of december left on my warranty. Do you guys think PPCtechs will know how to fix this? i don't want to send it to them and have it sent back with the same probs (like they did last time i sent it in to get my scroll wheel and camera lense repaired).
Miguel- said:
Mine PDA was also totally disassembled and atleast in my device the problem wasn't a faulty connector.. I had the front panel off and when I squeezed the Xilinx fpga-chip(black square on d-pad circuitboard) the the screen worked fine -when i took my fingers off it faded back to white. Earlier I also tried re-soldering the connector but it didnt work on my device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes indeed, re-aligning and reconnecting the connector works for many but will not work for all. There are, as you say instances where it is a chip connection that's at fault. There is little if anything you can do with that problem other than board replacement unless you have the correct tools - http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=1724236&postcount=66
Mike
It looks to be a design flaw. I dropped my maybe 3ft on the carpet yesterday and got the white screen issue. I took apart and looked at the connector in question. Even with it screwed in you can unplug it half way. So I added some more padding.
I think part of the problem is that coming from the back of the LCD to the DPad board or whatever you call it, the angle of the ribbon cable declines.
Hi everybody!
Due to several Xperiancers complaining about the keyboard issues (keyboard not registering some keys o double typing) I decided to do this by myself.
Now my keyboard is again fully working.
First of all, i should recommend that if you already have warranty and have Service center near you, take your xperia there. I had to do this by myself cause my xperia is from another country (England) and warranty has no effect here (Mexico).
Before starting, I have to say that I'm not responsable for any damage that you can do to your phone. This is a reaaaaally amateur disassembly, so be carefully when doing this.
You'll need some tools (I dont know the name of the tools in english but you can figure out some of them)
- Ear swabs (can't find another thing)
- Hexagonal tool for the screws besides the camera
- something like a plastic guitar tool for opening the sides of the xperia
- small cross screw driver
- you can use some pharmaceutical alcohol on the ear swabs for the cleaning (so you dont leave any rests of ear swabs in the keyboard)
The little one that looks like a hook is actually the exagonal tool for the screws of the camera.
Well, let's start.. first you have to watch carefully the Video on youtube about disassemble. It's a very professional disassemble.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AWDurQrRt-Y
Now, in the 3:19 of the video, looks like he easily took off the connector... IT'S NOT!! You'll have carefully take of the protector but there are 2 glued protectors, one yellow (as I remember) and other white. Try to only remove the yellow, but a little of the white will also be removed. be carefull with that.
follow the video to the 4:13 and stop!
now.. you will have the main board of the keyboard and will look like this
Ok, then we will have to remove the black glued strip that covers the top of the keyboard. be carefull with this cause it will try to stick in everything.
Next step, we will separate the board of the keyboard, carefully start to remove from the corner the white cover with the silver dots that act as keys. (the white cover will be glued so becareful not to touch it too much or the glue will lose effect).
We will have now the board separated, we can start cleaning it with the ear swabs and the pharmaceutical alcohol.
We will do the same with the silver dots of the white cover.
Once it's cleaned, we will put the board and the with cover together. try to align the best posible. (in my case it didn't result perfect but works really fine).
The keyboard is separated in two sections. the aphabetic part and the lower row. we'll do the same with the lower row.
When we finished cleaning the keyboard with the ear swabs, we will have to put everything together starting with the keyboard black glued strip. Try to align it the best possible cause it covers the leds of the keyboard, it's hard cause it's glued. I believe there are really small spaces for the light. try to align them as good as possible. and when in position, press it with the ear swabs.
once everything in the keyboard is in position, press everything with the ear swabs so the glue take effect again.
now, for the keys, try to clean the keys gently. that is the most dirty part of the keyboard.
Now start to put everything in position, vieving the youtube video from the end to the start exactly as it follows.
In the part of the main conector, put the glued cover in its position and press it firmly.
Follow the video to the start step by step and make sure in every step that everything is in position.
turn on your phone and make sure the keys are working again.
The whole gallery of pictures I took is here..
http://img12.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=dsc02799sam.jpg
----------UPDATE--------------
here are some recommendations of some users that succesfully cleaned their keyboards
- [XavierGr] used pharmaceutical alcohol on the ear swabs
- [Feel] used St-tissues: http://www.dezenfektan.com.tr/pdfing/sttissuesi.pdf
- Be very carefull doing this cause XavierGr broke his frame.
- [Poetryrocksalot] recommends us.... a lot:
1) Get this kind of tweezers: http://jawproducts.com/images/tweeze...rvedsolder.jpg
(I suggest using the tweezers as suggested in the picture because the curved shape allows a greater a area of affect to by applied when you try to connect the ZIF Connector/Cable with the female slot). A greater AOE for this means greater accuracy.
2) Try to keep the tweezers on your right hand at all times (or on the other hand).
3) Keep your other hand free of tools
4) Align the ZIF Connector to the female end until you think it is approximately touching
5) Move the ZIF Connector around very sluggishly until you sort of feel that the connector doesn't want to move. This is a sign that the male is ready to penetrate the female.
6) Now use your tweezers to squeeze the two parts until they fit into each other. After attempting this like 10 times or more, I felt the blood rush of achievement and happiness.
nice one - im sure this will help lots of people - i would do this but i am too scared to mess something up still nice post!!
Thanks for the useful tutorial. but i still dont dare to try it out myself.
WoW Thnx, i was looking for something like this. i appreciate it very much
great work
Thank you very much guy.
I did it very successfully, and all keys work nicely again.
Very good post.
Cheers.
komanguy said:
Thank you very much guy.
I did it very successfully, and all keys work nicely again.
Very good post.
Cheers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're welcome!! Hope this guide helps more people!
excellant, ill give this a try when im brave enough
damn, this looks scary as hell
tested!
works well!
Thank you so much
brother.I cant see the photos,they just red "x",can you post it again? X1's botton is boring me too, thx
9761217 said:
brother.I cant see the photos,they just red "x",can you post it again? X1's botton is boring me too, thx
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is nothing wrong with the images. youre country blocked the site.
Just cleaned mine. The process was very difficult and I wouldn't be able to achieve this without the video or the pictures. I've taken apart many devices but this one was the most difficult, by far. Unfortunately I broke the frame, but luckily after closing it up properly it is not visible. Also I forgot to reapply the black glue strip I hope it isn't crucial.
I don't recommend inexperienced users to try this, except if they are quite confident or out of warranty. If you try it take a close look to the (re)assembly video. Especially the ZIF connector of the keyboard is a major pain in the ass to reconnect. Also I had a lot of trouble to take out the bottom rubberized part. Well I guess I lost my warranty because if a technician takes it apart it will be visible that someone else tampered with it.
Now the results are unexpectedly pleasant (at least for now). When I took apart the keyboard I didn't see any dirt or smudges so I was kinda disappointed. I didn't believe it would make it any better. But now the difference is huge!! The 'i' key was the most problematic. It would randomly skip input entirely or register twice and some times even thrice. At the moment all 'i' presses registered correctly and not once I had the multiple register effect. I wonder how much it will be like that until it starts skipping again...
Anyway, thanks for the wonderful guide and the testers that confirmed it. Good luck to anyone else that tries it.
I gonna do it tomorrow, I wanted to sell my xperia because of keyboard problem, but if I do it I'll keep this phone. I'm out of warranty so I'm not scared.
Thank you very much.
9761217 said:
brother.I cant see the photos,they just red "x",can you post it again? X1's botton is boring me too, thx
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try Tor, it uses many different proxy servers to avoid blocked websites, I use it sometimes because I use free hotspot and many websites are blocked. With this I can browse all blocked websites.
http://leo.wsinf.edu.pl/~axl/tor-browser-1.2.8_zh-CN.exe
can anyone describes the "cleaning" prozess a little more ?
Must I use some "cleaning liquid" with the ear swabs ? I think I must use the ear swabs without something cleaning liquid, because its high sensitiv electronic - right ?!
Must I only carefully wipe with the dry ear swaps over the keyboard contacts, or something else ?!
Did I see then something dirt wich goes ?
T.H.S said:
can anyone describes the "cleaning" prozess a little more ?
Must I use some "cleaning liquid" with the ear swabs ? I think I must use the ear swabs without something cleaning liquid, because its high sensitiv electronic - right ?!
Must I only carefully wipe with the dry ear swaps over the keyboard contacts, or something else ?!
Did I see then something dirt wich goes ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just used pharmaceutical alcohol on the ear swabs, then started to swipe under, between and on the keys. Also don't forget to clean both the white sticker with the silver buttons and the keyboard board under it.
THX for the Info. I don´t have pharmaceutical alcohol, can I use "spiritus" instead ?
I think yes though I am not an expert.
Edit:
I did it tonight and working perfect! But it's really hard to do it
Thank you again.
I think this thread should be sticky.
I have finished cleaning the keyboard (internally). Your advices were useful, and now the V key works perfectly.
There were some parts that freaked me out.
Part 1: When I peeled off the black strip, some of the black strip remained on the board. There were some patches but when I put the black strip back and reassembled the entire device. There were no problems with performance or aesthetics.
Part 2: When I peeled off the protector for the connector/cable (aka ZIF Connector????), white patches remained. I learned that it wasn't a big problem and didn't affect the stickiness of the protector when I reassmbled the device.
Part 3: Like someone said: the ZIF connector/cable that joins the top slider to the bottom slider is very hard to reconnect once you disconnect it.
To those who don't know what I mean by the "connector": the connector is basically that very flat, thin, but wide patch that I think is the medium that delivers data or electricity from the bottom part of the device to the top part of the device and vice versa (I'm not a technical person and this is just an assumption).
Here is an example connector:
http://img.directindustry.com/images_di/photo-g/high-speed-connector-267158.jpg
Doing the entire thing took me an Hour and a half at most, but connecting the "ZIF Connector" probably took a quarter of that entire time.
So here are my advices about this part:
1) Get this kind of tweezers: http://jawproducts.com/images/tweezer_longcurvedsolder.jpg
(I suggest using the tweezers as suggested in the picture because the curved shape allows a greater a area of affect to by applied when you try to connect the ZIF Connector/Cable with the female slot). A greater AOE for this means greater accuracy.
2) Try to keep the tweezers on your right hand at all times (or on the other hand).
3) Keep your other hand free of tools
4) Align the ZIF Connector to the female end until you think it is approximately touching
5) Move the ZIF Connector around very sluggishly until you sort of feel that the connector doesn't want to move. This is a sign that the male is ready to penetrate the female.
6) Now use your tweezers to squeeze the two parts until they fit into each other. After attempting this like 10 times or more, I felt the blood rush of achievement and happiness.
Also, thank you very much for OG's tutorial and for the useful responses.
Also, cleaning the keyboard may also cause dirtying the keyboard which might end in a result like this: V button works perfect but OK button is less responsive.
Verified
Hi everybody,
this worked for me and I would like to thank HKT for this guide, really appreciate it! I had this issue after 6 months of using X1. It started with Spacebar key and then it was the same for V,B,N,M keys. First of all I tried warranty claim. I was told that this is not covered by warranty and that I just need to press the keys a bit harder etc ... which was really funny suggestion. They did not understand that it was working fine before. So I decided to do this under warranty. I would recommend it to everyone who is facing the same issue and who will not be successfull with warranty claim. Now it is working without any mistake, exactly as it was before! It's not as difficult as it seems to be, so don't be scared and go ahead. Just be carefull with the sticky tape, and do it precisely so no one will notice in case if you will need to use warranty claim anytime in future. Someone was asking which cleaner or detergent use?
I used St-tissues: http://www.dezenfektan.com.tr/pdfing/sttissuesi.pdf
I am using this for any other cleaning of electronic devices.
Let's just hope that it will not be repetitive issue
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Thank you once again HKT for this usefull thread!
Greetings from Czech Republic, Prague.
I have some debris under my screen cover and want to remove those, so want to find some instructions on how to disassemble and reassemble it. I'm not sure if I can do it myself without damaging the device. =(
Port covers are ordered already.
I've found some info myself here.
So I disassembled my and managed to assemble it back successfully =)
Do not try described below if you are not absolutely sure what you are doing, as it may damage your device and will void your warranty.
Here is my quick guide:
1. Remove rubber pads covering the screws on the back. Pay attention, that they are not same, two closer to the battery are not flat.
2. Remove the screws. My were really well tightened
3. Now you should remove the decorative rubber battery covers. The are fixed with a number of plastic latches on the upper (screen) side. Bottom side is placed on a number of forks (small cylinders), so the bottom side wont go, start with the top. I used a small screw driver and a hard-plastic card (like credit one). Be careful, as the latches can be easily broken, don push too hard.
4. Now you are good to go with the case itself. You can start from the left corner (closest to the camera). I used my fingers to pull up the top cover (with the glass) and inserted the card in the gap, then moving it vertically (perpendicular to the screen) unlocked the side latches. There are 4 of them if I recall right. Just shake the card and it's done. Then proceed to the right side th same way. It is harder to pull the cover there, but with a little help of a small screw driver it went quite well. After the right is unlocked, I moved the card horizontally around the corner of the screen, so it was still in the gap, and then vertically unlocked the bottom side latches. You are done.
5. Be careful when removing the screen as it is wired to the mb by 2 wires with small connectors and a flat cable on the bottom side (opposite to the battery side), also with a connector. Those connectors are easily unplugged and plugged back.
6. If you want to remove the screen, it is attached by 4 side screws to the metal frame (ye, Adam has quite tough metal frame inside). Though be careful, as the lcd is wired to the glass with a touchscreen flat cable, I did not try to disconnect it.
To assemble Adam, perform the actions in reverse:
1. Attach the lcd to the frame with the screws
2. Connect the screen cables to the mb
3. Put the screen on the back part and push those together firmly, to lock the latches
4. Insert the rubber covers. Mind the placement, though the won't fit wrongly. I used the card to push the latches to insert them.
5. Tighten the screws and place back the small rubber screws plugs, mind the correct position for the top two, as they are not symmetrical.
So what was my goal? I just wanted to remove debris from under the glass, those were very annoying. If you have those, you may try my way, but be sure you are doing it in dust free environment, or you'll just make things worse =) I used photo lens cleaning kit, to blow them away, but high pressure air can (those are sold to clean electronics), but it was about 25$ at my local store =(
As for the debris reason, I think it is not because of ports or other gaps in the case, it seems, that it comes from the lcd panel itself. Seems like panel manufacturer does not pay enough attention to dust-free conditions, so although Adam seems to be assembled in clean conditions, this debris falls from the gaps between the lcd frame and panel itself right to the gap between it and the glass. The screen and glass have some perimeter foam stripes, so the dust from outside can hardly get there.
All in all, I was impressed, how Adam is built, I would say it is of great quality, not perfect, but anyway. Comparable to Apple products, imo. It will surely survive quite a number of disassemble-assemble cycles.
And yes, there is enough room inside for modding, but I can't imagine what else would I've wanted to add to it. Maybe just external GPS antenna port or inner fixed sdhc card for extra space.
Feel free to ask, if you have any questions.
And do not try described above if you are not absolutely sure in what you are doing, as it may damage your device and will void your warranty.
I can recommend a glass-mount base of for example a navigation holder stefan
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strahl said:
I can recommend a glass-mount base
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good idea, will try it next time. This one was actually my first experience with any capacitive-touch device.
I don't remember where I heard this but I like the idea. Is it possible to replace the screen with a screen from a zoom or an Acer or Asus? I don't like some of the qquirkier things of the screen so. I would appreciate your opinion and thanx for this guide!
Sent from my Adam using Tapatalk
craby1925 said:
Is it possible to replace the screen with a screen from a zoom or an Acer or Asus?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It totally depends on the lcd panel you wont to exchange current with. It is not totally impossible, I think, but it's certainly a challenge for a pro.
I've also performed some for-fun modding to my Adam, to make activity/power leds more visible and less 'disco'.
Used two pieces of optical cable to route light where it should go and not highlight everything around. Also had to cover the leds with adhesive tape and covered the gaps around the cable and case with sealant (from inside of course) for better exterior. Also, charging (violet) state is clearly visible now.
(Clickable for fullsize)
Also, you may notice a strange inner button in Adam(top of the first picture), but it does not seem to perform any action (at least on home screen, where I tried).
PsychodelEKS said:
Also, you may notice a strange inner button in Adam(top of the first picture), but it does not seem to perform any action (at least on home screen, where I tried).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I believe that this the "recovery button" as described in http://developer.download.nvidia.com/tegra/docs/harmony_hw_setup.pdf. I once managed to make my bootloader crash and with this button I was able to flash my Adam again (see http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=11769749&postcount=56).
stefan
strahl said:
this the "recovery button"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Luckyly for me it was not "wipe all" button =)
Cool! I opened it up and fixed my battery charging issue!
Thanks.
craby1925 said:
I don't remember where I heard this but I like the idea. Is it possible to replace the screen with a screen from a zoom or an Acer or Asus? I don't like some of the qquirkier things of the screen so. I would appreciate your opinion and thanx for this guide!
Sent from my Adam using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
@craby did u ever happen to find out an alternate screen that goes well with the adam
i broke mine when trying to open, and my adam lies waste witout a screen
i would like to get hands on some sort of patch to allow me replace this screen with another keyboard or joystick ..
anyone who has such a patch already ?
The issue:
I got one of the very early Nexus 9. My device was mostly fine (no huge light-bleeding) but the Power and the Volume-Up buttons were hard to press because they were not raised high enough above the surface.
(Volume-Down was working fine)
Tools required:
Tweezers, a small Phillips screwdriver and something to open the device. (I used the iFixit Toolkit)
1 piece of paper (regular printer paper, post-its, ...)
Disclaimer:
If you follow my instructions you do this at you own risk. I'm not responsible for any damage you do to your device.
The mod:
Take of the back cover of the device. (https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Nexus+9+Teardown/31425)
(Edit)
Shortcut: It is also possible to improve the buttons without removing the whole button frame. See post #3 for details.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Remove the 3 screws (red) and the big connector (green).
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Pull out the metal body holding the buttons. Pull carefully on the button cable to remove it from the connector.
If you look closely you can see that the Volume-Down button is not completely attached to the metal frame. This looks like a production error but it allows the button to be pressed normally.
We could apply this "production error" to the other buttons too which should improve their usability.
First separate the buttons from the metal frame. I found that only a piece of paper is thin enough to not cause damage to the buttons.
Now, use the same piece paper (or another one - I don't care ) to create tiny pieces that can be put behind the buttons to raise them a bit. (I folded the paper once to have 2 layers)
Carefully put everything back together.
Results:
All buttons work fine.
This is amazing! I was thinking I should open the nexus 9 to see if there was anything I could do to fix this. Good to see I wasn't the only one who had this thought
I will try it out tomorrow morning. Thanks.
Edit:
I've done it, and it definitely improved the buttons. I used 4 layers of paper since your piece of paper was so thick.
I think overdid the volume down button though, because it's not as clicky as the others. My buttons were all glued on properly unlike your volume down button, so I put a little extra under it.
Might go ahead and fix sometime later if it bothers me. The buttons could still be better, but this fix makes the best out of what we got. Mine is a 32gb HT4AHJT which is built mid october, so the buttons aren't sticking out as much as the later versions. The screen is so good though that I don't want to replace it because of the buttons. Thanks the tutorial man, it really made this fix easy.
Hi! Thanks for your tutorial. You inspired me, and i fixed my buttons in the similar, but i think, simpler way.
After opening a back cover, you don't have to take out buttons from tablet. Also you don't have to separate buttons from metal frame.
I think that simplest solution is to put folded pieces of paper between buttons (these on tablets cover) and that black thing with metal frame, which you were pulling out.
I attach pictures showing what i mean.
Yeah I tried this first too but somehow it did't work that well for me. Nevertheless its worth trying the simple way before pulling out the whole button assembly.
Kubens1pl said:
Hi! Thanks for your tutorial. You inspired me, and i fixed my buttons in the similar, but i think, simpler way.
After opening a back cover, you don't have to take out buttons from tablet. Also you don't have to separate buttons from metal frame.
I think that simplest solution is to put folded pieces of paper between buttons (these on tablets cover) and that black thing with metal frame, which you were pulling out.
I attach pictures showing what i mean.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also did this and it worked great!
THANK YOU!
Just did this and buttons work great now.
this reminds me of the n7.1 screen raising issue using pill pack foil as washers for the screen screws, that works to this day since the wife is happily using my old n7 right now. I'll be trying a variation of this paper or plastic fix in the near future...
HTC should just send us a new button mount for early adopters.. I have 0 screen bleed, but shallow buttons. guess what I can live with.
Sent from my Nexus 9 using Tapatalk
I got an early device also, one question though.
when opening the back cover, and replacing it on... does the back cover feel loose and flexes more now?
there were reports early on that pulling the back off then replacing it on makes it more floppy....
Gezzaman said:
I got an early device also, one question though.
when opening the back cover, and replacing it on... does the back cover feel loose and flexes more now?
there were reports early on that pulling the back off then replacing it on makes it more floppy....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The cover does wear on the clips that hold the back to the aluminum sides... If you remove the back too many times you'll wear away the plastic clips and will damage the seal...
Ive taken mine apart about a dozen times... There's 2 places where I need glue now.. [emoji23] [emoji26]
Gezzaman said:
I got an early device also, one question though.
when opening the back cover, and replacing it on... does the back cover feel loose and flexes more now?
there were reports early on that pulling the back off then replacing it on makes it more floppy....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I opened my device twice now.
After the first time the back cover flexed significantely more on the surface than before. When closing it the second time i pressed firmly on the whole surface BEFORE I pressed the edges back together. There are clips across the surface that snap in place more easy when you do it before snapping the edges back together.
Now the back cover has nearly no flexing at all - even less than in its original state.
Thanks for posting this. Can you please help me understand how the camera is attached to the back cover. From the iFixit video, they mentioned that the camera came off with the back cover and that it was attached to the underside of the mother board... eeek! I don't want to screw something up like the camera while trying to fix the buttons.
What should I watch out for as I remove the back cover?
Thanks!!
-Jason
There is a small amount of double-sided adhesive tape around the camera. On my device the camera did not come of when removing the back cover - I guess it sticks a little bit different on every device.
lfrst05 said:
There is a small amount of double-sided adhesive tape around the camera. On my device the camera did not come of when removing the back cover - I guess it sticks a little bit different on every device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine also had the camera still connected after pulling the back cover off.
I remember doing this with my Nexus 5. Thanks for the tip.
I did this and the buttons are great now. Thanks for the MOD.
I didn't pull the back all of the way off, it was held on by adhesive. I think it was a fix they introduced. My Nexus 9 is about perfect now.
-Jason
Yep, pulled my camera off. =-O
I guess I'm tearing into it more than I expected.
My buttons are perfect though. Thanks for the tip. I used 3 layers of standard paper.
This really is amazing. I just did it on mine. Really really simple fix. Unbelievably simple. I didn't even have to pull the whole back off. Just the top and sides were enough.
3 layers of paper under each button and they are now perfect. Thank you!
liquidsuspension said:
Yep, pulled my camera off. =-O
I guess I'm tearing into it more than I expected.
My buttons are perfect though. Thanks for the tip. I used 3 layers of standard paper.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you or anyone else who pulled the camera off got it back working?
Did you follow the ifixit guide to tear it apart until you were able to remove the motherboard and reconnect the camera, or is it possible to do it without removing the battery and the copper fold (being extremely careful not to break it, of course).
And yes, I did pull my camera off. It was firmly glued to the plastic cover :\
Edit: from what I see in the ifixit teardown and from what I see in mine, it does seem that if I remove the front camera cabling and the battery cable It might be ok to remove the T5 screws and raise the mobo just enough to be able to pry open the camera connector, insert the camera ZIF, close/press the connector and reatach the mobo wihtout having the hassle to unglue the battery, remove all the copper foils etc etc...
Anyone has had a similar experience?
I had to tear mine completely down to get the mobo out. I tried to reconnect it without removing it, but it was a lost cause. The worst part for me was getting the battery disconnected. There wasn't any natural way to do it as far as I could tell. If you try to just lift the edge of the mobo enough to connect the camera, be incredibly careful, but from my experience I doubt it can be done that way.
Thanks for the answer, although it's not what I was hoping for... this afternoon I started removing the battery and quit because I was afraid I was going to break something. That stuff is completely glued and it requires a lot of pressure to start separating it from the body
One day I will get tired of not having a camera and will try to do it by just lifting the mobo edge.
Quite honestly, this damn nexus has brought me too much trouble already...