I am having thoughts of installing a ssd drive inside htc shift. Is this possible? Has anybody tried it or dissasembly htc shift?
Thanks,
Lefteris
i dont know that im brave enuf to kill my warranty. If the drives are the same size and same power consumption and have the same mounting points then it should be easy.
That's a lot of ifs...
And if you look in Vista at the Experience index, you can see that the HD is fast enough
Okay, SSD is always a lot faster.
I forgot the big if,
IF you can afford one the proper size
If someone has very large juevos they could crack their shift open and take some pictures!!!
doh, daniel u should of done that before replacing it!!!!!
There are internal pics of the Shift on the FCC site.
https://fjallfoss.fcc.gov/oetcf/eas...omFrame=N&application_id=542917&fcc_id='NM8CL'
good to know we can upgrade the harddrive very easily then
and the ram oh goody 2 gig chip
Those are very easy upgrades, does anyone know the part #s for the existing items?
We need a ghost of a prestine box, make sure one of the senior guys when they get their box to ghost is right away.
Well one thing for sure an extra gigabyte of ram would help.
But is does seems we need a very specific module to replace the RAM.
Any ideas where to buy such a module?
According to the FCC pictures the ram module is:
Qimonda
qty 8 of HYB18T1G160BFL-5 / 3VV08956 (also has 0724 and B on the chips)
on a double sided chip
http://www.qimonda.com/mobile-ram/ddr-18/index.html
rpawly said:
According to the FCC pictures the ram module is:
Qimonda
qty 8 of HYB18T1G160BFL-5 / 3VV08956 (also has 0724 and B on the chips)
on a double sided chip
http://www.qimonda.com/mobile-ram/ddr-18/index.html
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had some trouble opening the link but now it seems to work.
The problems I see is that Qimonda is a producer of RAM chips, not a retailer/seller of modules.
And second they only list 1GB sets.
Third, where can we get our paws on a 2GB module?
Ouch,
I just located some 2GB DDR2 microDIMM RAM at 500 USD, the 1GB chips are 180 USD.
also we have to find out if the vista bios supports 2 GB DDR microDIMM, the bios they are running is very weak, i suppose we would have to get a new one of those too :/
rpawly said:
Ouch,
I just located some 2GB DDR2 microDIMM RAM at 500 USD, the 1GB chips are 180 USD.
also we have to find out if the vista bios supports 2 GB DDR microDIMM, the bios they are running is very weak, i suppose we would have to get a new one of those too :/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you tell me where you found that 2GB DDR2 MicroDimm?
Ok that is a lot about RAM but how about a SSD?
I believe the BIOS should support 2 gigs. I asked the folks at HTC about this and they didn't indicate any issues beyond the challenge of opening the device and the fact that it does void the warranty.
http://www.amentio.se/PartDetail.aspx?q=p:2010473;c:36376;r:prisjakt
Please take a look at the specs and tell me if it would fit. I am new to this so wanna be sure.
premier69 said:
http://www.amentio.se/PartDetail.aspx?q=p:2010473%3bc:36376%3brrisjakt
Please take a look at the specs and tell me if it would fit. I am new to this so wanna be sure.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The MSD-PATA3018-032-ZIF1 is an 8mm drive (height), so no, it won't fit. You want the MSD-PATA3018-032-ZIF2 which is 5mm in height.
Google told me that
http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=208242&page=303&highlight=2510p
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomy B.
I did some research and find out that there is two versions of Mtron Mobi 3000 1.8" 32GB with ZIF.
Does anyone know is there any difference between MSD-PATA3018-032 ZIF1 and MSD-PATA3018-032 ZIF2, except thickness (first one is 8 mm, second 5 mm) and price.
Is there some reason for MSD-PATA3018-032 ZIF2 to be cheap?
If someone can recommend any 2.5" SSD with 44-pin IDE or 1.8" with ZIF just let me know. 32 GB is just enough. I had Samsung 1.8" with 50-pin IDE, but it was 16 GB (around 15GB actually), so 50-pin IDE will work too.
The only difference betweem the ZIF1 and ZIF2 is the height. The ZIF2 (5mm) is being produced for regular orders by Mtron, so you will find this easily available (http://rocketdisk.com/index.php?cPath=15) but the ZIF1 (8mm) is only being produced for OEMs and other special situations.
There is no reason for it to be so cheap, other than good value
The performance is really awesome & as you have probably seen on notebookreview.com there are lots of happy customers!! ---- end quote
rpawly said:
i dont know that im brave enuf to kill my warranty. If the drives are the same size and same power consumption and have the same mounting points then it should be easy.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
背面有8颗螺丝,键盘下面有一颗螺丝 ,一共9颗 在电池接口处出力压下,键盘会跳出来,看我的拆机图http://picasaweb.google.com/netcnn/Netck
btw: I buyed yesterday a MSD-PATA3018-032-ZIF2 within Ebay. We will see how fast it is. But I think this is the fastest ATA-7 1,8" HDD on Market. Mtron announced a 64 and 128GB Version as well a few months ago, but I never see anything like this.. :-(
First time when I've ordered Moto X Play (XT1562) with 16 GB of internal storage, it did show 11 GB of available storage. However, due to display defect, I had to return it and get an replacement which has 10.89 GB of available storage.
I've received the replacement before sending the actual defective one. I've tried to check what's different, but I couldn't find anything else except for storage availability difference. Both were Lollipop 5.1.1 with identical kernel and firmware version (both were "reteu" and single SIM). As I didn't know about accessing recovery mode before returning the defective one, I don't know was there any difference in recovery information.
Performance seems to be identical, both were still causing identical lags. Even after upgrading to marshmallow with my current replacement, it's still stuttering while scrolling. It still doesn't feel fully optimized.
I didn't post this before as I thought that this wasn't a big deal, but I want to know what was the difference between storage availability. Does anyone have Moto X Play with 11 GB of available storage? I saw some people having 10.89 GB, but no one having 11 GB. Please check size of your available internal memory storage and give some details if possible. Along with that, vote if you have 16 GB model (If you have 32 GB, don't vote for other value).
What happened to 0.11 GB of storage? Is it anyhow possible to get it back?
Well, mine does have exactly 11GB. Dunno what's the actual reason.
I'd imagine it's the same as anything, all chips are made to a certain spec and not all are bang on. They have tolerances, some maybe 11 and others maybe 10.89 and some may even 11.10 or something. It's the same with CPUs, not all chips are identical I the same range. This is why we CPUs can be over clocked much further than another CPU that is the same model number.
If after a few days you don't see a noticeable performance difference, I'd suggest performing a factory reset. If it still persists, I would send the pone back. Mine went from noticeable lag to occasional stutter (fairly rare, just could be equated to background tasks running).
Sent from my Moto G 2014 using Tapatalk
Mine shows 11.
differences between regions? single, dual sim? just my guess
brian10161 said:
I'd imagine it's the same as anything, all chips are made to a certain spec and not all are bang on. They have tolerances, some maybe 11 and others maybe 10.89 and some may even 11.10 or something. It's the same with CPUs, not all chips are identical I the same range. This is why we CPUs can be over clocked much further than another CPU that is the same model number.
If after a few days you don't see a noticeable performance difference, I'd suggest performing a factory reset. If it still persists, I would send the pone back. Mine went from noticeable lag to occasional stutter (fairly rare, just could be equated to background tasks running).
Sent from my Moto G 2014 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's not the same as CPUs.
If you have two same phone models with same CPUs with advertised clock speed at 1 GHz for example, and then you notice that they underclocked it at 800MHz on one phone due to possible instability with higher clock, wouldn't that be unfair?
You can't just sell something advertised with higher specifications and then sell it with lower specifications.
On contrary, if the manufacturer manages to get higher clock on some CPUs, they would sell those as different model with higher advertised clock speed. The example for that would be MSM7227 (600MHz) and MSM7227-1 Turbo (800MHz, same as MSM7227, but works with higher clocks). Some models only use the first one, while other ones use the second one. Two different phone models can have different CPUs, but two same phone models cannot.
It's still 11 and 10.89 GB. No one mentioned anything more or less yet.
You're suggesting something that I didn't ask for. I don't need help with my phone. I need help with finding out what is causing this and is there anything possible to do something with it.
pijes said:
differences between regions? single, dual sim? just my guess
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've already said there was no difference between both phones I had. Same region, both had only single sim slot.
Further note:
I've decided to check with file explorer to see actual partition sizes:
/data: 10.89 GB
/system: 2.57 GB
/cache: 0.73 GB
Total: ~14.19 GB
In case that others have 11 GB of /data, then that would be ~14.3 GB in total for them.
If you can, check /system and /cache partition sizes to see if you get in total about 14.3 GB.
Okay. I'm sorry to have responded and tried to help you out. If you think that I don't know what I'm talking about then I'd say you are obviously qualified to figure this out your self. I wasn't trying to be rude, just trying to explain that there are tolerances in ICs that are followed. They have gotten a lot better than when CPUs were first being built, I understand that. But there are still tolerances. I very rarely see two Memory ICs with the EXACT same storage size. There are sections of the disk used for error correction that we don't even see in the storage size.
If you are unhappy with my response, that's cool. I won't be responding anymore.
Take care.
Sent from my Moto X Play
brian10161 said:
Okay. I'm sorry to have responded and tried to help you out. If you think that I don't know what I'm talking about then I'd say you are obviously qualified to figure this out your self. I wasn't trying to be rude, just trying to explain that there are tolerances in ICs that are followed. They have gotten a lot better than when CPUs were first being built, I understand that. But there are still tolerances. I very rarely see two Memory ICs with the EXACT same storage size. There are sections of the disk used for error correction that we don't even see in the storage size.
If you are unhappy with my response, that's cool. I won't be responding anymore.
Take care.
Sent from my Moto X Play
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You did make better answer now, though. I'm quite stubborn about some issues like this one. Thanks for further details about it.
Hello all.
I have a P905 model with 32GB RAM. But I've seen P900 models with 64GB.
Q1: Did the P905 come out with 64GB too, or only 32GB?
Q2: The RAM is probably a surface-mount IC (soldered to the mainboard). I haven't had a reason to open mine yet. Does anyone know where I can obtain a a picture showing which chip is the RAM?
Q3: If some P905 models do come with 64GB, and I find one with a broken screen, is there anything preventing me taking them to a shop with the correct gear to swap the RAM chips? For example, would the RAM size be the only difference, the other ICs the same, so the 64GB RAM will 'just work'? Or is there a second chip that checks the RAM, or something in firmware that will recognize the tablet shouldn't have 64GB and refuse to work?
Q4: I know the mainboards and processors of different models are different. But does anyone know if the RAM chip is the same? (Are 64GB RAM chips from different models compatible with the P905 too?)
Thanks for reading.
Whether you're truly talking about RAM or simply storage, the process, whether leading to successful expansion or not, will require very, very fine skills. You can find videos on YouTube of, for e.g., iPhone upgrade 512GB, MacBook Air 8GB upgrade, etc. The skills required for this type of work aren't likely to be trained overnight, even with the right equipment.
Mainly because of the density of solder balls present for each IC/BGA chip, and their small size. Everything must be perfect.
Thanks. I understand the process but don't own the equipment to rework surface mount components. It's probably come down a lot in price since I last looked but I'd probably only use it a couple of times. Easier/cheaper to go someplace that does it every day. I'll keep an eye out for a broken tablet to try it.
When I saw the topic of a beginner's guide to building a PC, I jumped for it because I remember building my first PC. It actually wasn't nearly as long ago as you'd think. I also remember how clueless I was. Obviously, I know about everything that goes inside of a computer, but once I was faced with the task of putting all of that together, I was like a deer in headlights.
PrerequisitesLet's start off with a list of everything that you're going to need:
CPU
Thermal paste
Motherboard
CPU cooler
Case
Power supply
RAM
Storage
GPU (optional unless you have an Intel F-series processor)
An operating system
And then, of course, don't forget about the necessary peripherals:
Monitor
Keyboard
Mouse
Speakers
Webcam
External peripherals are beyond the scope of this post, but take note of what you need, keeping in mind that the PC you're building doesn't have the built-in parts of an all-in-one PC, like a microphone, speakers, and a webcam.
How to get started or: Pick a CPUFirst of all, and I cannot stress this enough, PCPartPicker is your friend. The site lets you plug in a list of parts that you're planning on using and it will tell you if there are any compatibility issues. It's super useful. In fact, even if you know that your parts should be good to go, run them through PCPartPicker anyway just to make sure.
The other key thing you need to do when getting started is to pick a CPU. This is an important first step because you're pretty much building out the PC around this choice. There aren't any motherboards that support both Intel and AMD CPUs.
Choosing between AMD and Intel (see, I didn't put the same company first twice in a row so you guys can't yell at me) is the first step. Once you do that, you can decide what kind of performance that you need. I wrote a guide to Intel CPUs and what the product names mean. With AMD, you have Ryzen 3, Ryzen 5, Ryzen 7, and Ryzen 9, and performance goes according to how high that number is. The same goes with Intel and the Core i3, Core i5, Core i7, and Core i9.
Intel has a bunch of different suffixes. If there isn't one, it's a standard 65W desktop processor, so something like a Core i5-11600 is pretty mainstream. Add a K and it's now a 125W processor that's unlocked for overclocking. And as mentioned above, an F means that it does not have integrated graphics, so you'll need a graphics card.
Pick a motherboard, or a case, or bothNext, you have to pick a motherboard and a case. I'm including both in this section because it's a matter of priorities. Do you want a case that fits your motherboard or a motherboard that fits your case? If you already know what case you want to use, start there and find motherboards that work. If not, start with a motherboard that has what you want.
First, let's cut your motherboard choices in half. If you're using AMD Ryzen, you need an AM4 socket. In you're using Intel 10th- or 11th-gen, you need an LGA 1200 socket. Note that with Intel, 12th-gen will use a new socket, so this is not upgradeable.
Next, you have to pick the size of your motherboard, and this is where compatibility with the case comes in. There's eATX, ATX, mATX, and mini-ITX, all in size order. This very much comes down to how big of a PC you want to build. Looking for something that's super-small and can hide behind your monitor? That's where mini-ITX comes in. Want something big and beefy that's going to have some serious power and thermals? Go for eATX.
When picking a case, it will tell you what size board it can fit. Obviously, the CPU, motherboard, and case choices go hand in hand.
Now that you've narrowed down your motherboard choices to the socket and the size, you're in good shape. It's time to start looking at ports, PCIe slots, and more. Make sure that you've got the ports to plug in what you need and the latest USB standard. Make sure you've got enough memory slots. A big one is the graphics card you want to use. Make sure there's room for it not only on the board, but in the case.
Pick a CPU cooler and thermal pasteNow, it's time to figure out how you're going to keep that CPU cool. Here's the bottom line. The more your CPU heats up, the worse the performance gets. The cooler you can keep it, the more it can sustain peak performance.
The first thing that you have to choose between is air cooling and liquid cooling, and there are pros and cons to each. Air coolers can be easier to install and more cost-effective, but if you want a good one, they take up a lot of space. Liquid cooling can be better if you plan on doing a lot of overclocking.
Personally, I'm a big fan of air coolers from Noctua. I use a Noctua NH-U12A, which is not only designed to be one of the best air coolers around, but it's quiet too.
So, after you decide if you want liquid or air cooling, you then have to looking at how cool it keeps the CPU and also how much noise it makes. That noise is important.
Then there's the thermal paste, which sits between the CPU and the CPU cooler. The more evenly it's applied, the better the cooling. Many CPU coolers, like the one I mentioned above from Noctua, come with thermal paste. You can always shop around though. A tube of thermal paste costs under $10, so using the best one there is should be an easy way to keep your CPU cool.
Pick a power supply and a GPUAs you can see, a lot of these parts go hand in hand. In fact, once you've put this all together, you'll find that they all go hand in hand. But we can't talk about the power supply without picking a GPU.
Picking a GPU is optional. Like I said, you might want a simple productivity machine with a Core i5 and integrated graphics. You also might want a gaming rig with an NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3090. And then there's everything in-between.
With that in mind, you need to pick a power supply. This is an area that you'd definitely be well-off to use PCPartPicker for. It will tell you the wattage of all of the parts you've picked so far, and then tell you if there are any compatibility issues with you pick a power supply. I'd suggest picking one with plenty of wattage to spare so you can upgrade down the line.
Another thing is that you should definitely get a modular PSU (power supply unit). That means that the power cables aren't attached to the PSU itself. You can add cables as you need to, and since you're a builder now, you're probably going to need to at some point.
The other thing that's important is efficiency. You'll see an 80 PLUS rating that can be Bronze, Silver, Gold, Platinum, or Titanium. This is important, because it's based on how much power is lost due to heat.
RAM, storage, and OSIf you've made it this far, you're in good shape. This is the easy part.
With RAM, you want more, and you want faster. It's that simple. You can also look up how fast of memory your CPU supports and go for that. The same goes for storage. An M.2 SSD is the way to go if you can, but there are also SATA SSDs. You can get an HDD if you're on a really tight budget, but I don't recommend it.
As far as the OS goes, it's between Windows and Linux. Windows costs money; Linux doesn't. I'm not really here to tell you which one you should go for.
Putting it all togetherAlright, you've got all of your parts and you're ready to build your dream PC! It's the second-most exciting feeling behind the first boot.
Most of this is going to be about plugging things in where they fit, but sadly, it's not that simple. You need to start working through the manuals that came with your motherboard and your case. Those are going to tell you exactly what to plug in where, and most of it is fairly straightforward. There are few things that will actually break if you do them wrong.
The one thing that will break if you do it wrong is installing the CPU in the motherboard. It's important not to apply any unnecessary pressure when doing this because you could bend the pins on the chip or the board (depending on who made the CPU). Damage one of those and you've got some very expensive paperweights very quickly. To be clear, there's nothing to be afraid of here and it's very easy to do. Practice some healthy caution and you'll be fine.
Installing the motherboard in the case is something you'll need to follow instructions to do, which is fine, as it's easy enough. Once it's screwed into place, there will be several cables in the case that have to plug into the board. These will be for fans built into the case, for additional USB ports, and so on.
The other thing you'll have to install in the case is the PSU. Read the instructions and make sure the fan in the PSU is facing the right way. This is not something that you want to do incorrectly. There are a few cables to plug into the case and the board. Once the GPU is installed, you'll have to plug that in too.
Next, you'll probably be installing the CPU cooler. Make sure to apply thermal paste before you do. A pea-sized dot right in the middle of the CPU will do it. Do your best to bring the cooler directly down on the CPU, rather than doing it from an angle. This will spread it evenly across the chip.
Obviously, the graphics card, the storage, and RAM can fit into their respective slot. Note that for most boards, if you have four RAM slots and you only have two RAM sticks, you're better off separating them by one slot for dual-channel memory.
Once that's all done, you should be ready to plug it in and boot it up. You might not want to close the case on first-run, so you can make sure all of the fans are spinning. You can plug your USB drive with the OS into a USB port and boot into it to install the operating system.
Something went wrong!Well, you've made it this far and now something doesn't work. Isn't that always the way it goes?
The most common problem is probably that you pressed the power button and nothing happened. After all, if the thing that went wrong is that you broke something, you should just buy a new one.
If it's not booting, now it's time to start checking cables. Make sure that everything is plugged in securely, particularly the CPU cooler. Make sure that the PSU cables are plugged in at both ends. If there were any steps you weren't sure about, such as if you plugged something in in the right spot, revisit it.
If you just can't figure it out, come back here and ask for help.
Question @therichwoods --- I'm an extremely heavy user of Chrome. I'm talking dozens of tabs open at all times in multiple windows. I assume I'm going to want to maximize my RAM to take full advantage? Or is CPU/GPU also important in my case?
svetius said:
Question @therichwoods --- I'm an extremely heavy user of Chrome. I'm talking dozens of tabs open at all times in multiple windows. I assume I'm going to want to maximize my RAM to take full advantage? Or is CPU/GPU also important in my case?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
TBH CPU is always important. But RAM should definitely be a priority.
Hi
Just upgraded my complete system from an AMD FX8350 with 32gb Ram to a Ryzen 5 3600 with 32gb ram. Currently using my old HD7870 Graphics cards in Crossfire but as these are now nine years old am looking to upgrade to a more recent card(s) bearing in mind that I am a pensioner and it has taken me a year to gather new, system, what would you recommend in Graphics cards for this build.
Motherboard is an MSI B450 Gaming Plus Max, Ram is Corsair DDR4 2666 4x8Gb. TIA
Stransky said:
Hi
Just upgraded my complete system from an AMD FX8350 with 32gb Ram to a Ryzen 5 3600 with 32gb ram. Currently using my old HD7870 Graphics cards in Crossfire but as these are now nine years old am looking to upgrade to a more recent card(s) bearing in mind that I am a pensioner and it has taken me a year to gather new, system, what would you recommend in Graphics cards for this build.
Motherboard is an MSI B450 Gaming Plus Max, Ram is Corsair DDR4 2666 4x8Gb. TIA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That really depends what you want to do with your graphics card. Looking for a GTX1060/1660 might be a good idea, I had the latter one and you can play a lot of recent games in high settings with your ryzen.
Keep in mind buying a graphics card nowadays is REALLY expensive, even used ones, when you can get one. New ones are sold over the recommended manufacturer prices due to the mining scene and Corona!
Stransky said:
Hi
Just upgraded my complete system from an AMD FX8350 with 32gb Ram to a Ryzen 5 3600 with 32gb ram. Currently using my old HD7870 Graphics cards in Crossfire but as these are now nine years old am looking to upgrade to a more recent card(s) bearing in mind that I am a pensioner and it has taken me a year to gather new, system, what would you recommend in Graphics cards for this build.
Motherboard is an MSI B450 Gaming Plus Max, Ram is Corsair DDR4 2666 4x8Gb. TIA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should've opted for ram with xmp since ryzen benefit the most from faster ram. I'm currently using aorus 3200mhz 2x8gb kit with xmp enabled and it's better compared to it's stock settings.
Insanenity said:
You should've opted for ram with xmp since ryzen benefit the most from faster ram. I'm currently using aorus 3200mhz 2x8gb kit with xmp enabled and it's better compared to it's stock settings.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What's XMP?
svetius said:
What's XMP?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
XMP (Extreme Memory Profiles) is a technology that allows you to change memory settings by selecting a different profile, which takes advantage of higher than standard memory speeds. Simply stated, XMP is the "easy button" of RAM overclocking, as manual RAM overclocking can be an unnecessary headache!
svetius said:
What's XMP?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
RAM over 2400Mhz is overclocked. X.M.P is just a system to overclock your ram. It's standard now. Personally I wouldn't bother with anything over 3600Mhz as it gets too pricey for the performance. Go no lower than 2666, try for 3200 (this tends to be the cheaper one anyways). I believe you will need to enable X.M.P in your uefi when you install it otherwise you'll just be running 2400. Like Insanenity said, it's just a 1 click setup so there's no fuss.
If you're not focused on gaming; while 16GB is fine, if you find a 32GB kit in your budget than definitely get it. Get a fair CPU with over 6 cores. (so ryzen).
LTT just did a video on something that might interest you.
This could be a good option for your productivity build as it's bang for buck. But if you have the budget for R7 5000's than just go for that.
Tldr: Chrome is a ram and cpu whore, use firefox...
I'm kidding, invest in CPU and RAM more than others if chrome is your concern.
p.s. Feel free to ask questions
strongst said:
That really depends what you want to do with your graphics card. Looking for a GTX1060/1660 might be a good idea, I had the latter one and you can play a lot of recent games in high settings with your ryzen.
Keep in mind buying a graphics card nowadays is REALLY expensive, even used ones, when you can get one. New ones are sold over the recommended manufacturer prices due to the mining scene and Corona!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the reply. Will just have to hang on to Current cards and hope prices drop in the near future on the GTX 1060/1660 cards. Too expensive for me ATM even second hand
Stransky said:
Thanks for the reply. Will just have to hang on to Current cards and hope prices drop in the near future on the GTX 1060/1660 cards. Too expensive for me ATM even second hand
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, unfortunately the prices are beyond the reality... If the bitcoin hype decreases, there might be a chance back to reality
strongst said:
Yeah, unfortunately the prices are beyond the reality... If the bitcoin hype decreases, there might be a chance back to reality
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just caught a news story headline that 30-Series cards will be available in stores, soon at reasonable prices soon - as BTC drops below 30K this morning....
HipKat said:
I just caught a news story headline that 30-Series cards will be available in stores, soon at reasonable prices soon - as BTC drops below 30K this morning....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Luckily I got my 3060TI in 2020 for a low price, now it costs 50-80% more
strongst said:
Luckily I got my 3060TI in 2020 for a low price, now it costs 50-80% more
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I looked and Best Buy has it for $399. Less than I paid for my 1080 2 years ago
HipKat said:
I looked and Best Buy has it for $399. Less than I paid for my 1080 2 years ago
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Click to collapse
In stock for 399? Surely out of stock, otherwise it must be a mistake Sounds like the MSRP for the Founders Edition.
strongst said:
In stock for 399? Surely out of stock, otherwise it must be a mistake Sounds like the MSRP for the Founders Edition.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll go look again when I get a break, but I'm pretty sure you're correct about it being the founders edition