So today my phone dropped on the ground flat on the ground from about hip height and after picking it up i noticed i now have a cracked screen from the top.
I'm wondering how much the plastic front lens will run about. I see some prices online for about 100-180$ and it seems like every1 is pointing to the g1 digitizer?
The touch screen features work properly with no problems at all. I'm wondering, is that whats really needed? Or is there just the plastic lens somewhere?
Don't really feel like spending around 130 bucks for accidental damage. Might awell wait for a different phone to come out .
I know you can order just the glass but I have never needed to repair the glass or LCD on a G1 or MT3G. From just looking at mine I assume you can seperate the digitizer from the LCD.
http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=g1+glass+&_cqr=true&_nkwusc=g1+glasss&_rdc=1
the G1 digitizer is not a "plastic lens" it's the touchscreen, which sits on top of the LCD screen. I bought a replacement digitizer for relatively cheap on Ebay. If you are going to fix it be extremely careful. I managed to break the flex cable of my LCD screen fixing the digitizer....
I smashed the screen on my Tab a few weeks back. While I didn't take a video of the replacement, here are some notes and tips on my experience:
If the glass is cracked but you can still see the display fine (i.e. no rainbow or black ink spills) then it is just your digitizer that is broken. Your top priority at this point is to not break the LCD because the digitizer is relatively cheap (~$35 shipped from China, $60 from the US). This also goes for the picture being fine but the touch not working at all.
Buy a replacement digitizer. I got mine from ebay ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/270938561127 ).
Gather tools:
A clean towel to use for your work area to prevent scratches and scuffs
A little plastic prying tool (likely to come with your ebay order)
A thin and sharp utility knife/razor
A three prong screwdriver. The seller I used sent a few other screwdrivers but not the three prong one. I used one I got from a Nintendo DS repair a while back.
A heat gun will make this a lot easier. I guess a hair blow-dryer might work in a pinch.
I did not see any good videos for the disassembly. The one I watched ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=thTt6G27NV8 ) really screwed me over because it didn't show removing two screws first.
Here are my written steps for replacement:
Use a needle to pry out the two caps on either side of the USB charging port
Use the three prong screwdriver to remove those two screws
Insert the pry on the bottom middle between the plastic frame and the glass. Push down firmly so it wedges in up to the L shape.
Slide the pry along from the middle to either end and around the corner. You will feel the frame pop away from the innards.
Continue working the bottom half of the frame apart until you can insert tweezers or something else under the unit and lift it up and out of the frame.
Be careful to lift the bottom half then pull it out away from the top. Otherwise, you will crack the audio port which extends from the unit and fits into the hole in the top of the frame.
Set aside the frame and place the unit on a clean towel. If you have a broken screen, you are going to be dealing with lots of tiny slivers of broken glass.
On the circuitry side of the unit, you will see three big flat ribbon cables. The middle one is the digitizer. Use tweezers or the pry to *gently* lift up the tan colored plastic locking hinge on the far side (opposite the cable). It will pop up and the cable will easily slide out. Go very slow and carefully here. Don't mess with the black plastic because it will chip right off.
Now comes the painful part. Removing the old digitizer. Take a cigarette break if you need one. Maybe a Valium. Basically, almost all of the black trim part of the glass is thick strong glue binding it to the unit. You need to separate this glue to be able to peel the glass digitizer away.
Hold the unit upright with one hand and use the heat gun to loosen up the glue holding the digitizer to the unit. Run it along one edge for less than a minute until the glass is a little too hot to touch.
Quickly insert the razor as close to the glass as you can and about 6 centimeters in. Slide it along the side that you heated. Don't make any prying motions or you'll just crack the glass more.
Continue with the remaining three edges. Heat then separate. You may not make much progress the first time around, but by the second time, you should see the glass starting to peel away. It took me about 5 to 10 minutes per edge and it is grueling work.
Once you can safely peel the entire glass digitizer away from the unit, use the razor to lift up and peel off any of the flat black tape/glue that was left behind. Most of the unit where the glue goes is gray. On the sides there are two parts where you see black plastic. It is okay to leave glue residue as long as it isn't bunched up.
Vacuum up any stray glass slivers. Make sure you set aside tools screws and screw-hole-plugs before vacuuming.
Installing the new digitizer
Use an LCD spray and cleaning cloth to clean your LCD. Don't leave any dust or fingerprints as it will look bad once everything is put back together.
Remove the back covering of your replacement digitizer revealing the glue. Obviously, try not to touch the glue.
Align the digitizer above the unit, make sure the camera hole is on the correct side. Very slowly lower it down and try to have it perfectly in alignment when it touches. You will be able to nudge it a tiny bit, but the glue is strong and if you get it crooked, you are going to have to try to quickly lift it back up without cracking your new digitizer.
Once you have it in place, remove the front protective film and free the new cable. Wrap the cable around to the back and very gently insert it between the contacts then push the locking hinge down.
Testing and reassembly
Power it on and see if it works. Just push down the little metal bump closest to the edge where the power button would be on the frame.
When happy with the test, turn it off again and hold the unit above the frame.
Check the orientation then insert the top part first to fit the audio port into the hole. Line up the rest and then push down on all the edges to snap it into place.
Breathe a deep sigh of relief.
Appreciate the time you put into this, hopefully I never end up in a similar situation.
Could have used some more return key though lol
Sent from my Ceramic White LTE Galaxy Note using XDA Premium App
Wish I would have read this first. I broke the housing by the 2 bottom screws. Dayum! I haven't touched it since. Supposed to get the digitizer Friday. Wish me luck!
Its really easy to replace the digitiser on WiFi version. Use Stanley knife and hair dryer to loosen it off and remove middle flex cable. Videos on youtube
Sent from my GT-P7510 using xda app-developers app
Any picture of these 2 screws cause i do not see it on a p4 here.
I still have one here with a cracked glass but it all still works even the touch screen.
But i do not see the screw so a pic would be nice
Opuske said:
Any picture of these 2 screws cause i do not see it on a p4 here.
I still have one here with a cracked glass but it all still works even the touch screen.
But i do not see the screw so a pic would be nice
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Click to collapse
They are covered by plugs on either side of the charge port. Gotta pry the plugs out first.
Sent from my EVO using xda premium
Ok so i am on a mission this weekend then to try and do that then
Opuske said:
Ok so i am on a mission this weekend then to try and do that then
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
One tip: be really careful not to touch the inside surface of the glass. I ended up with a fingerprint on the inside that drives me nuts every time I clean the screen. Wear gloves if you've got them.
Otherwise it was no sweat. I used this as a guide but with a hair dryer instead of a heat gun.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KUI2gDQbdDY&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Sent from my EVO using xda premium
Quick question
I really found this post very helpful, but I do have one question. What if when I was trying to pry the tab up to pull out the digitizer, I cracked the black plactic on the other side. Would this cause the new digitizer not to work when I finished replacing everything and put it back together?
Best tutorial on the web (much better than those godawful youtube videos).
Thank you!
Did u get an answer??? I need to
AylaAtreides said:
I really found this post very helpful, but I do have one question. What if when I was trying to pry the tab up to pull out the digitizer, I cracked the black plactic on the other side. Would this cause the new digitizer not to work when I finished replacing everything and put it back together?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you get an answer??? I did the same thing...
DEinspanjer said:
I smashed the screen on my Tab a few weeks back. While I didn't take a video of the replacement, here are some notes and tips on my experience:
[*]If the glass is cracked but you can still see the display fine (i.e. no rainbow or black ink spills) then it is just your digitizer that is broken. Your top priority at this point is to not break the LCD because the digitizer is relatively cheap (~$35 shipped from China, $60 from the US). This also goes for the picture being fine but the touch not working at all.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just when I thought I knew the difference between the LCD and the digitizer I read your post. You said if the glass is cracked but you can see the display just fine the digitizer is broken. When you say "see the display fine" I presume when the device is on you can see whatever it should be showing? Correct me if I am wrong. Silly me I would have thought if the glass was cracked you need the LCD. Are the glass, LCD and digitizer 3 separate parts?
Anyway on my Note 10.1 2014 edition the display suddenly went black while I was using it. All indications are the device is working because I hear notifications if I sent email to one of the accounts registered on the device. Given this limited info which part(s) do I need. The glass is pristine in that there are no cracks or scratches. Do I need the digitizer, lcd or both? How can I determine what I need for sure?
Thanks in advance,
~metafizik
The digitizer is the touch sensitive glass, the LCD is under that and it makes the pictures.
If you crack or damage the LCD, you will frequently see something that looks like an ink spill or a rainbow pattern.
If you crack or damage the digitizer, you can still see pictures fine, but some or all of it might no longer respond to touch.
In your case, it sounds like your LCD is not working, but unfortunately it is hard to say whether that is the only part that stopped working since it wasn't due to damage to the screen.
DEinspanjer said:
The digitizer is the touch sensitive glass, the LCD is under that and it makes the pictures.
In your case, it sounds like your LCD is not working, but unfortunately it is hard to say whether that is the only part that stopped working since it wasn't due to damage to the screen.
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Click to collapse
Thank you for the information. I agree there is no telling what might have caused the problem especially given some other problems that proceeded this. I had recently replaced the battery and even with the new one it was draining way too quickly. I concluded it might be the ROM I was running had become corrupted because Google services was using the lions share of the battery instead of the screen. I downloaded and installed a factory Lolipop image and it was running fine for about half a day when the wife started playing around with live wallpapers we had never tried when it went black.
At this point I am reluctant to spend $ replacing the Lcd given it might be something else altogether.
Thanks again,
~metafizik
Accepting offers on my 32GB Note 10.1 2014 edition. As described above the display has gone dark but system is otherwise working fine. Includes very nice MoKo Wireless Bluetooth Keyboard Cover Case and the tablet's battery is new.
Replacing screen on LG G2.
I ordered a LG G2 LCD digitizer pre-installed in a frame assembly off ebay and un-assembled my broken LG G2 and then re-assembled it in the new LCD/digitizer frame and everything works well, except for the fact that when I tilt the screen to the left or to the right, I can see light bleeding out near the sides. Here are some pics of the screen bleeding. It looks like the side of the frame is not attached well enough.
http://imgur.com/v476QVF
http://imgur.com/icDLXKl
To try and fix this problem I took a guitar pick and lifted up the screen a bit and used a tiny pin to apply some loctite go2 glue (recommended by someone on youtube) on the sides and used C-Clamps to clamp the screen to the frame, but when I took off the clamps (after 24 hrs) I could still see some light bleeding through, not as bad as before but it was still there.
I plan on buying a new screen without the frame attached and trying again. The question is what should I use to get the edges of the screen to stick to the frame? Super glue? Rubber cement? Rubber sealant? Epoxy?
Any help is appreciated.
RXG9 said:
Replacing screen on LG G2.
I ordered a LG G2 LCD digitizer pre-installed in a frame assembly off ebay and un-assembled my broken LG G2 and then re-assembled it in the new LCD/digitizer frame and everything works well, except for the fact that when I tilt the screen to the left or to the right, I can see light bleeding out near the sides. Here are some pics of the screen bleeding. It looks like the side of the frame is not attached well enough.
http://imgur.com/v476QVF
http://imgur.com/icDLXKl
To try and fix this problem I took a guitar pick and lifted up the screen a bit and used a tiny pin to apply some loctite go2 glue (recommended by someone on youtube) on the sides and used C-Clamps to clamp the screen to the frame, but when I took off the clamps (after 24 hrs) I could still see some light bleeding through, not as bad as before but it was still there.
I plan on buying a new screen without the frame attached and trying again. The question is what should I use to get the edges of the screen to stick to the frame? Super glue? Rubber cement? Rubber sealant? Epoxy?
Any help is appreciated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
can you post the link of the seller you bought the new lcd/digitizer from? my screen is cracked and the top 1/4 is unresponsive, i just want to know exactly what to buy!
ive been watching youtube videos and one person used double-sided tape and wrapped it around the edges of the phone.
Hello /u/Silent-Scope
Hi everybody,
some time ago I dropped my X Style and a tiny crack appeared in the bottom left angle... The phone is still perfect in everything else, it's not worth it to replace the screen for something like this... It's just a little ugly.
Then I found this on ebay:
"MOTOROLA MOTO X STYLE BLACK SCREEN DISPLAY GLASS OUTER LENS DIGITIZER XT1572
This is just the outer lens, not the digitizer" (I cannot post links, but you can reach it by using "mJnRmL" code in the google url shortener)
But I'm not sure what "lens" and "digitalizer" refers to... Is it the whole external glass replacement, or just the borders or something else?
And if it's the whole glass, do you think is safe (and worth it) to perform the replacement by myself, or maybe pay same shop to do it for me?
Thank you in advance!
The glass is glued to the screen. Unless you have experience with separating glass from the display on phones, followed by applying a fresh coat of LOCA Glue, and using a UV light to cure it, I'd just go for the whole assembly. The digitizer is under the glass, above the display.
It's not the same phone, but here's a video of how it's done:
So my friend gave me his old sgs5 for free because it is missing the battery and back plate, both of which i ordered off amazon and are arriving later today, i have a question about the amoled panel
the glass of the digitizer is flawless, no cracks to be seen whatsoever and is very smooth and scratch free to the touch; however, inside on what i can assume only to be the amoled panel itself, (unless there is another thin layer of glass between the GG3 and amoled display , which i am not sure of) on the very top right corner and about 1.5-2mm in, there is a small hairline fracture that cuts the corner, also, there is a very small fracture of the same type on the top of the panel about two-thirds of the way to the left that extends roughly 1.5-2ish-mm down the screen, but ends without cutting back to the edge of the screen.
my question is this; When i recieve the battery and back plate today in the mail, will i put it together only to find that i get no video on the amoled at all? or simply black screen except for that tiny cut-off corner on the top right, as from what i can tell that is where the main video ribbon connects?
the phone has been -somewhat- manhandled, as there are a couple fractures in the glass over the camera and some indentations on the plastic chrome ribbon that encompasses the device on the corners from what i can only assume are drops. Otherwise the device looks to be in perfect working order, and i cannot imagine that it has sustained enough impact trauma to actually hurt anyone on the mainboard if the gg3 screen itself is flawless with no blemishes.
thanks for your time, any insight is much appreciated.
-Valkry
Valkry said:
will i put it together only to find that i get no video on the amoled at all?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is a big chance of that happening...
I have an S3 mini screen here that is in almost perfect condition, except for a tiny fracture in the AMOLED panel very similar to yours, and the whole display doesn't turn on.