Database Users

Will a Hermes Car Charger work on the Kaiser?

I remember reading in a review long time ago that it wouldn't work. Just wanted to confirm this. Thanks.

All Hermes Chargers and Headset Adapters work fine, some cradles work OK too but the fit isn't perfect.

RemE said:
All Hermes Chargers and Headset Adapters work fine, some cradles work OK too but the fit isn't perfect.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the info!

what about the batteries from the hermes ?

Woah I forgot all about this thread.
That free HTC car charger that AT&T sent for the 8525 didn't work on the Tilt.

ZzFDKzZ said:
Woah I forgot all about this thread.
That free HTC car charger that AT&T sent for the 8525 didn't work on the Tilt.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It worked fine on mine.
new_ppc_user said:
what about the batteries from the hermes ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, they won't fit.

ZzFDKzZ said:
I remember reading in a review long time ago that it wouldn't work. Just wanted to confirm this. Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any Mini-Usb charger should work on the Tilt or any other device with a Mini-Usb port. I have used my Razr's on my Tilt and Hermes and on a sony and a nokia.

I think we need to settle this once and for all.
Source: http://wiki.xda-developers.com/index.php?pagename=ExtUSB
The Kaiser ExtUSB Connector...
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As we see the USB Connectors are on the Top and the "specialized audio connectors" on the bottom. Notice Pin 1 is Power, No other are power.
Now lets look at Mini-USB Series B, the standard USB connector on these Chargers.
Source: http://www.accesscomms.com.au/reference/USB.htm
Notice When you hold the Mini-USB Type B Connector with the Shorter part down that Pin 1 is to the far right. Pin 1 is also Power.
Code:
Mini-USB Type-B Pinout & Cable Color Code
Pin Wire Color Function
1 Red V BUS (5V)
2 White D-
3 Green D+
4 Not connected ID
5 Black Ground
Now we look at the ExtUSB diagram notice the bezel near the end with Pin 5. Notice Pin 1, which we know is Power, is to the "left." It matches up perfectly with Pin 1 Power on the USB Connector.
Also notice on Mini-USB Type B that there is no Pins on the Bottom to interfere with The Extra Pins on the HTC ExtUSB port.
So as long as the charger only provides power on Pin 1, which any good charger will, it will work with the Kaiser.
wikipedia's USB Article said:
The USB specification provides a 5 V (volts) supply on a single wire from which connected USB devices may draw power. The specification provides for no more than 5.25 V and no less than 4.75 V (5 V±5%) between the positive and negative bus power lines. Initially, a device is only allowed to draw 100 mA. It may request more current from the upstream device in units of 2 mA up to a maximum of 500 mA.
[...]
On-The-Go and Battery Charging Specification both add new powering modes to the USB specification. The latter specification allows USB devices to draw up to 1.5 A from hubs and hosts that follow the Battery Charging Specification.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So If the Charger Provides up to 1.5A via Pin 1, it should work.
*Caveat: I don't know for certain that the HTC Kaiser draws 1.5A, but I'm sure it does. Hypothetically, on a USB bus the Bus will not provide more power than the Device Actively draws. So if for some obtuse reason HTC went against all Smart Design and Engineering, and created a Device with a Mini-USB Type B connector that couldn't handle 1.5A. A charging only charger that feeds it 1.5A it may blow it out.
I could not find any information on this. If someone knows or has a data sheet that says the HTC Kaiser can draw up to 1.5A then any charger that doesn't provide more then 1.5A will work fine. Any decent Charger maker would know that USB devices cannot handle more then 1.5A. Thusly not providing more then 1.5A on a charging-only charger.

JimmyMcGee said:
I think we need to settle this once and for all.
Source: http://wiki.xda-developers.com/index.php?pagename=ExtUSB
The Kaiser ExtUSB Connector...
[/I]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well said.

JimmyMcGee said:
I think we need to settle this once and for all.
Source: http://wiki.xda-developers.com/index.php?pagename=ExtUSB
The Kaiser ExtUSB Connector...
As we see the USB Connectors are on the Top and the "specialized audio connectors" on the bottom. Notice Pin 1 is Power, No other are power.
Now lets look at Mini-USB Series B, the standard USB connector on these Chargers.
Source: http://www.accesscomms.com.au/refer...5 came with does not work with the AT&T Tilt.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

KF OTG Discussion

So I have been playing around with various USB game controllers as well as various storage devices and everything has worked so far (except BT, its detected but thats it). Hashcode has put a low priority on OTG in the kernal dev queue so I would like to get a discussion going about possible hardware solutions to over come the current 3.3v limitation of the USB port when running as a host (which is why devices dont work directly, only through a hub). Someone already suggested a current pump DC-DC in the kernal thread so my current focus something like this: http://www.circuitsathome.com/dc-dc/33v-to-5v-dc-dc-converter
for some motivation to this end, here is my USB NES controller hooked via OTG:

Controller use brought to you by HaiKaiDo Inc. lol

usb otg will work nice if we can up the voltage
usb otg will work nice if we can up the voltage from 3.7 to 5 volt

southbird already did a proof of concept with a voltage regulator from pololu
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=25943787#post25943787

barrmulio said:
southbird already did a proof of concept with a voltage regulator from pololu
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=25943787#post25943787
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep saw that. My aim here is to go beyond that and come up with a real design
Sent from my Xperia X10 using xda premium

Can the voltage regulator be wired into the OTG cable? If so I am willing to try this but I need help with the wiring. I am searching now for some type of soapbox enclosure to house the voltage regulator. Any suggestions?

It would serve as the otg cable. The vreg will sit on the power rail between the kf and the normal usb connector. Ultimately, i want to lay out a smd board with the micro usb and regulator that goes in some little enclosure.

Basically what I am thinking of doing is putting the regulator inbetween the micro usb and female usb. It will look like other otg cables but the enclosure with the female usb will be larger.
I am assuming that the red(power) from micro usb is connected to the vout and the red(power) from female usb is connected to vin on the regulator. Do both sides of the ground need to be connected to the regulator or just to each other?

Can this work with GPS receiver?
sent from the greezals fire.

meturne2 said:
Basically what I am thinking of doing is putting the regulator inbetween the micro usb and female usb. It will look like other otg cables but the enclosure with the female usb will be larger.
I am assuming that the red(power) from micro usb is connected to the vout and the red(power) from female usb is connected to vin on the regulator. Do both sides of the ground need to be connected to the regulator or just to each other?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could but IMHO, it would be simpler and cheaper to integrate everything as one device. The OTG cable is nothing special, just a micro USB B to regular USB A. The power needs to run from the micro in the KF to the vReg Vin, vReg Vout to the USB A connector, the ground is connected to all three.
greezal said:
Can this work with GPS receiver?
sent from the greezals fire.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No clue. I'm sure a google search would yield some answers

OK I'll look it up now and see if I can get the answer.
sent from the greezals fire.

greezal said:
OK I'll look it up now and see if I can get the answer.
sent from the greezals fire.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just looked it up and not much on the subject have not got a straight answer. Would be great though.
sent from the greezals fire.

Ok, the ones I ordered are in. Size is NICE, it should be really easy to integrate this into existing USB connector enclosures. This is the 120 mA version, the 600 mA version is about twice the size
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altitude909 said:
Ok, the ones I ordered are in. Size is NICE, it should be really easy to integrate this into existing USB connector enclosures. This is the 120 mA version, the 600 mA version is about twice the size
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
very nice - i ordered the pololu one and still waiting for it to arrive
my thoughts were similar; integrate the regulator into the usb female header area of the otg, or somewhere mid-cable...but I'm having a hard time finding an elegant solution to either re-enclosing the plastic end of the female header or enclosing it mid cable
i just back another otg cable today, i'll be cutting it apart to see if there's enough space by the usb a

success! kinda.. For super low current devices (i.e. NES game controller) it is working fine, anything larger (flash memory) its drawing too much current causing the voltage to sag below 2.5V which is not enough to power the regulator. Will try the LTC3426 one tomorrow since that should be able to operate at a lower input voltage

altitude909 said:
success! kinda.. For super low current devices (i.e. NES game controller) it is working fine, anything larger (flash memory) its drawing too much current causing the voltage to sag below 2.5V which is not enough to power the regulator. Will try the LTC3426 one tomorrow since that should be able to operate at a lower input voltage
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
just to make sure I got your wiring right
from micro usb b
- red to vReg Vin
- pin 4 to ground
- pin 5 to ground
from usb a
- red to vReg Vout
- black/pin 4 to ground
?
my stupid otg cable doesn't have standard colors (it's green, blue, yellow, red, yellow&red), so other than vcc i'm not sure what's what (edit: now i think blue is gnd and yellow/red is sense, yellow is d-, green is d+).
I was also expecting the otg short to be on the micro side and not on the usb a side, but it wasn't
my idea is to have the regulator sit inside the hollowed out area of the female header seen on the bottom left

Just take a meter and see what is connected to what. It does not matter where pin 4 and 5 are shorted.
Unfortunately, it looks like without some sort of magic, the port on the kf cannot supply enough current to drive these regulators. Im observing the same thing as southbird did, the devices show up but do not work. Measuring the voltages at the power pins with a flash drive connected i get 2.4v at the vreg input and 4.5 at the output which means that there is too much load. Time to start looking for battery powered usb hubs

this battery charger or this usb charger both work well for me with a y usb cable...i've seen some other posts with folks that just wired right into the charger, e.g. here

ok, the regulator arrived today and i played around with it
the otg cable was too frail for my poor soldering skills to do properly, so i ended up cutting up a usb extension cable to about 1' in length and soldering it halfway...i'll enclosure in heat shrink later
my results were pretty much the same as southbird and altitude909
My 8Gb centon usb however mounts perfectly *every* time, however my 4Gb, 2Gb or 512Mb sticks will not mount. When I try the elago w/ a 32Gb micro it conks out mounting as a whole, requiring a reboot of the KF to remount the 8Gb stick (probably some kernel protection)

so you need a regulator to get flash drives to work? that explains why it never worked for me lol

Cannot get nook to charge in Vbus

Alright so i bought a usb powered hub, a usb OTG cable, and a usb DAC. I can get the usb DAC working fine by hooking everything up but i cannot get the Nook to charge while in USB host mode. Is this a problem with the settings on the Nook or the USB hub i bought? Also is there any way to charge the nook at 2A while in USB host? I assume this would require a custom cable but i have found very limited information on the internet.

2 ampere? No. The TI chip responsible for charging tops at 1.5 ampere.
Most quality USB hubs don't power the host input without modification.
See: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=22956658&postcount=103
The tricky part is getting the regulator to be enabled when you plug in the cable.
Use UsbMode-1.6.apk (in signature) to see if it stays enabled.
Have your back-powering hub mated with the OTG adapter already,
the Nook set to peripheral and plug in the end of the OTG adapter.
It should go straight to host and charging without touching a button.

Can you explain a bit more about the hub modification?

Look:
Renate NST said:
See: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=22956658&postcount=103
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Renate NST said:
Look:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
my powered hub does not have a big diode.
Also i was reading from here, wht doeds it seem so simple according to this page?

Did you check to see if it powers Vbus on the host side when plugged in?
If you can do it, a photo of the inside of the hub would be useful.

Renate NST said:
Did you check to see if it powers Vbus on the host side when plugged in?
If you can do it, a photo of the inside of the hub would be useful.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Would i need to connect a wire at the red line in the picture below?
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How did you manage to get the camera glare exactly on the point of interest?
I think right above the "B" in your "USB POWER" annotation is an RF choke and above the "O" is a pass transistor.
Yes, you can try with the red wire, but it would be a bit better to connect it to the other side of LB1.
Check it with a voltmeter to make sure it's not a lot more than 5V after you are done.
5.010 V or so is fine.
Be careful.

how about this one? and you mean loop it around the board?

No, I just mean in that photo connect everything on this face of the board.
The wire that goes to LB1 should be on the contact near the edge of the board.
The other end of the wire can go to the center pin of the power connector where you had it.

Renate NST said:
No, I just mean in that photo connect everything on this face of the board.
The wire that goes to LB1 should be on the contact near the edge of the board.
The other end of the wire can go to the center pin of the power connector where you had it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Which component is this circuit is preventing the power from going to the usb. I assumed it would need a diode that i would be jumping.

The transistor is being a low drop diode.
You are basically bypassing it.

May be the usb OTG cable.
I'm getting a similar issue, it may be the usb OTG cable that won't let me charge. I didn't read thoroughly on the one I grabbed, and it doesn't specify "charging", and it doesn't appear to charge. The best I can get is "Not Charging". I don't see why it would make a difference though. It puts 5v on the same wire that should accept the 5v. I verified 5v on the OTG micro-b end with a my multimeter attached to a sewing needle, and It powers the keyboard fine. I even tried cutting a usb cable and putting 5v directly in the 5v line. Same result.
This is what I got.
dx.com/p/micro-5pin-to-usb-female-otg-data-cable-black-129671
I may try to get one that has been known to work.

"Not charging" is when it has voltage but doesn't feel like taking it.
Try hitting the button for 1.5A

Nothing wrong with the +5v on the line is what my burned fingers tell me (500mA sure heats up that 100Ω resistor fast). None of the buttons do anything other than kick it back to "Discharging".
It does happily charge in host mode auto using a regular cable going back to the slave side of the same hub on the same power source.

It sounds like your wall wart doesn't have sufficient power.
Check the voltage under load.

Can't reliably read USB host while power is connected
Renate NST, thanks for your work on the Nook Touch Simple in this thread and in the USB Host Nook developer thread, http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1457971. I've been able to connect up a GPS USB feed into my Nook.
I am also able to supply 5v to power the nook while it is connected to the external GPS feed.
However, I am having a problem with the /dev/ttyUSB0 port stopping and not being able to restart it.
My cabling is as follows:
I have a GPS Hockey puck plugged into the OTG cable. I also have a 5V DC power source spliced into the red and black USB leads.
It works correctly immediately after I boot the NOOK. I run the following "initusb.sh" script that allows me to
read and write to /dev/ttyUSB0
echo 500000 > /sys/devices/platform/bq24073/regulator/regulator.5/device/force_current
echo host > /sys/devices/platform/musb_hdrc/mode
sleep 0.5
echo host > /sys/devices/platform/musb_hdrc/mode
sleep 0.5
chmod 666 /dev/ttyUSB0
However, if I subsequently run my "deinitusb.sh" script, then I cannot re-initialize the USB unless I remove the 5V power:
echo peripheral > /sys/devices/platform/musb_hdrc/mode
sleep 0.5
echo peripheral > /sys/devices/platform/musb_hdrc/mode
sleep 0.5
chmod 500 /dev/ttyUSB0
echo 1500000 > /sys/devices/platform/bq24073/regulator/regulator.5/device/force_current
But, if I remove the 5V from the red usb pin, then I can successfully rerun the initusb.sh script and it will correctly allow read/write
to ttyUSB0 again.
The problem I have is that sometimes (for an unknown reason) the state of the USB host fails (usually several hours after running initusb.sh),
so I can no longer read or write to /dev/ttyUSB0. In this state, I cannot figure out how to programatically restart the ttyUSB0 port.
I try running deinitusb.sh followed by initusb.sh, but it does not work. Unless I remove the 5V power, in which case I can reinitialize the
ttyUSB0 port using the scripts.
The goal is a reliable USB app that runs on an external battery. Do you have any suggestions how I might either issue different
commands via a script, or run java commands or run diagnostics to figure out how to fix this problem with /dev/ttyUSB0 ?
Thanks,
Rob

Can't reliably read USB host while power is connected (cont)
rdunning0823 said:
The goal is a reliable USB app that runs on an external battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
More information about the problem:
I found this info about OTG specs (in wikipedia) (new members can't post links to this forum)
Three additional ID pin states are defined[6] at the nominal resistance values of 124 kO, 68 kO, and 36.5 kO. These permit the device to work with a USB Accessory Charger Adapter which allows the OTG device to be attached to both a charger and another device simultaneously.[8] These three states are used in the cases of:
A charger and either no device or an A-device that is not asserting VBUS (not providing power) are attached. The OTG device is allowed to charge and initiate SRP but not connect.[8]
A charger and an A-device that is asserting VBUS (is providing power) are attached. The OTG device is allowed to charge and connect but not initiate SRP.[8]
A charger and a B-device are attached. The OTG device is allowed to charge and enter host mode.
I think what I want is the last state: the "B" device is my GPS Hockey puck, and I want the host to enter charge mode.
Interesting, I found another post from guys who I guess work on kernels, that the tw4030 usb chip (that used in the Nook I believe) does not detect the above resistances on the ID pin: (sorry as a new member to this forum, I can't post external links, but this conversation says,
However that appears to be selected if the ID resistance is 36.5Kohms, while
others are selected for 68Kohm and 124Kohm.
But the twl4030 cannot detect that distinction. The cut-offs are
Ground, 102K, 200K, 440K, Floating​
So, I think my next steps will be to break apart some OTG cables and try putting the three resistances above into the GND/ID Pin short (pins 4 and 5) and see if this allows my software scripts to reliably enable/disable the USB host while the 5V is connected.

rdunning0823 said:
I think my next steps will be to break apart some OTG cables and try putting the three resistances above into the GND/ID Pin short (pins 4 and 5) and see if this allows my software scripts to reliably enable/disable the USB host while the 5V is connected.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here are the results of trying different resistances on the PIN4/5 of the USB cable.
Test configuration:
* 5v on VCC
* TrendNet TU-S9 serial usb converter hooked to OTG cable, providing stream of GPS NMEA data. Note the resistances were
measured using a medium quality multi-meter, so they may be off by a few percent.
* kernel is uImage_mt_usbhost_115.zip
Summarily, none of the resistances either published in the OTG spec or those reportedly recognized by the tw4030 chip
fixed the reliability issue of being able to restart the ttyUSB0 while 5V was connected to VCC.
Resistance: Results:
0O (grounded - standard OTG cable)
power up and run initusb.sh. GPS data is present on ttyUSB0
run deinitusb.sh. GPS data stops on ttyUSB0
run initusb.sh: GPS data does not reappear on ttyUSB0
23.5kO
power up and run initusb.sh. No ttyUSB0 exist
97kO
power up and run initusb.sh. GPS data is present on ttyUSB0
run deinitusb.sh. GPS data stops on ttyUSB0
run initusb.sh: GPS data remains missing on ttyUSB0
eventually ttyUSB0 disappeared and ttyUSB1 appeared (after repeatedly
running initusb.sh and deinitusb.sh)
123.5kO
power up and run initusb.sh. No ttyUSB0 exist
147kO
power up and run initusb.sh. No ttyUSB0 exist
196kO
power up and run initusb.sh. No ttyUSB0 exist
219kO
power up and run initusb.sh. No ttyUSB0 exist
437kO
power up and run initusb.sh. No ttyUSB0 exist

The TPS65921B does not have a full USB ID ADC.
See http://www.ti.com/lit/ug/swcu067c/swcu067c.pdf page 44.
You could also look at the source code for the driver.
It has two detectors, for shorted and floating.
This is done for hysteresis,

UART Access on Sprint Optimus G

Hi,
I'm making this thread because i have seen alot of bricks for this phone including my own. What seems to be most annoying is, my phone boots, shows LG Logo splash and after that completely black screen whereas flashing the Mako (Nexus4) Rom via LGNPST works, it boots without any issues. So the idea is to see the startup log and identify whats been causing the problem in actual.
The UART pads on this phone are completely not made to be accessible by normal means and below is an attached pic of the same
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As you can see, the molex is just barely a cm long and contains 15pads on each side. The problem is however, m not very much familiar with UART/Serial stuff. I have hooked up a serial connection with the pogoplug sometimes back and all m aware of is basic programs used and Profilic USB-Serial converter (Nokia CA-42 Data cable in mycase). Right now i'm having a USB-RSR232(Com Port) converter at my place and i'm unable to get any outputs to putty/terminal. Any info regarding this will be hugely appreciated.

I know nothing about the specifics of this phone,
but be aware that many UART interfaces are not at 5V levels but at 3.3V, 2V or lower.
What does a voltmeter say on the TXD pin?
I got my Nook's kernel console UART working using a home-brew/cheesy RS-232 converter.
I don't even remember what the levels are, but it works fine.

Thanks for the reply, i will to gather the readings later today. One more question, the current Signal converter m having right now i.e, USB-RS232 will work or do i need to get anything else?

If I read that correctly, you only have a USB to RS-232 converter?
Regular RS-232 swings at least + and - 5V and will blow things out.
A "data cable" usually uses "TTL level" which swings between ground and some fraction of +5V, maybe 3.5V, 2.8 being the nominal threshold.
I've got one for a GPS puck that uses a Prolific chip.
I've used that as a debugger hookup for an ATMega32u4 which runs on 5V.
Nowadays I have a couple of transistors on a board for going from my Nook to a regular PC RS-232 input.

Below readings were taken with battery and USB cable connected.
TX- 0.03v ~ 1.65v
RX- 0.03v ~1.65v
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

i'm having a Profilic USB-Serial converter which is having a USB type B connector and a com port connector on each sides. I'm only connecting the RX and TX wires on the phone's board to gain direct access to UART rather than using USB type data cable. Phone is powered by USB and battery.

If you want a pre-fab solution you can use a Bus Pirate:
http://dangerousprototypes.com/docs/Bus_Pirate
That will handle low voltage.
The thing is, even at 115.2 kbaud, your signal is so low speed that you don't have to get that serious.
When you are talking about the USB connected, do you mean the phone's USB adapter?
Those TXD & RXD readings were measured with nothing connected?

funkym0nk3y said:
I'm only connecting the RX and TX wires on the phone's board to gain direct access to UART rather than using USB type data cable. Phone is powered by USB and battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should connect ground of the phone with ground of your serial-converter/PC.

Ground is connected from the PC, i have tried with connecting ground from riff box, no help.

Renate NST said:
If you want a pre-fab solution you can use a Bus Pirate:
http://dangerousprototypes.com/docs/Bus_Pirate
That will handle low voltage.
The thing is, even at 115.2 kbaud, your signal is so low speed that you don't have to get that serious.
When you are talking about the USB connected, do you mean the phone's USB adapter?
Those TXD & RXD readings were measured with nothing connected?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
RXD and TXD readings were taken with both USB cable from PC and battery connected.

btw how did you find/identify the UART-pins and why are sure that you have the correct pins?
I'm very interested in this process because I have an Xiaomi MI2 with nearly the same hardware.

i located them using the service manual so m indeed sure they are correct.

M having this converter
and i guess that is perfect for serial output, but the thing is m still unable to get any outputs from the phone, i'm attaching the svc manual for the same incase some1 is willing to help out.
http://d-h.st/agQ
The UART is accessible via 3.5mm earphone jack in Nexus 4 and not in any of the og variants.

Well, your adapter is fine and dandy, but I don't see any photos of a level shifter.
If you connect some of the DB9 pins on that adapter to something inside your cell phone you are going to blow something up.
See this post for a photo of my setup: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=35328483&postcount=11

Hey, thanks for the reply, m not connecting the pin9. M just connecting the pin2 and pin3 on rx and tx pads of my phone,below is a pic of my current setup.

That last photo does not look like the first photo.
I'm not talking about pin #9, I am talking about the 9-pin connector.
Yes, you should be using pins #2, #3 & #5 but don't connect them directly to your phone!
What comes out of the 9-pin connector is higher voltage that will blow out the circuits on your phone.
You measured it yourself, the phone works on levels less than 2 volts.
Now measure what is coming out of the 9 pin connector.
Scary, eh?
You need a level shifter.
Besides the voltages being different, the polarity is different.

I guess this should be fine ?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-JY-MCU-...157?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5aebfc73f5

funkym0nk3y said:
I guess this should be fine?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, that is a [5V logic level] <=> [3.3V logic level] converter.
What's coming out of the 9-pin connector is [RS-232 level].
What your phone wants apparently is [2.5V logic level]
So what you need is a [2.5V logic level] <=> [RS-232 level] converter that inverts.
Here, in summary are the logic standards:
Code:
Standard Zero One
---------- ---- -----
RS-232 5.0V -5.0V (notice that this signal goes [b]minus[/b])
Cheesy 5.0V 0.0V (we're cheesy and don't have a minus supply)
5V logic 0.0V 5.0V
3.3V logic 0.0V 3.3V
2.5V logic 0.0V 2.5V
If you have a "USB data cable" that uses "TTL levels" [5V logic level]
then all you would need would be a [5V logic level] <=> [2.5V logic level] converter.
If you want to stick with your 9-pin adapter you will have to have something that converts from/to [RS-232 level].
If you were building this thing seriously, you would use a MAX232 chip or something that would convert from/to [5V level].
If you were going to be cheesy, you can drive your 9-pin connector with [Cheesy level].
This is logic which does not meet the spec for [RS-232] level but is "good enough" to work.
I mean, what is it that you want out of this? 90% is to get a log out while booting.
Then you only have to do one side of the deal, a [2.5V level] => [Cheesy level] that inverts.
Enough for now...

Reading this thread, I'd be surprised if you have not already blown-up something in your phone. Randomly connecting HW to the inside of your phone without knowing the difference of +/- 15V RS-232 levels and 1.8V CMOS logic is a sure killer!
But if its still working...here are a few comments:
1. We'd need to see the entire PCB, to help you identify the proper UART ports.
2. If it's based on Qualcomm, and anything similar to their reference design, you probably don't even need to go inside to get debug output. You might be able to get it via a modified micro-USB jig...
3. You say you have schematics, why don't you post that instead?
4. Get yourself a proper serial cable, ASAP. (You will for sure find other occasions where it is useful.) I always preach for the FTDI products...
5. The port you show, look like a JTAG port...or is it a strip-connector?
6. Never, ever, solder directly to your PCB, use connectors!

Nothing is damaged, i already measured the voltage coming out from rx and tx of the converter which i connected with the phone, however i was not aware that i might need to use a level shifter and m sure that might be the deal breaker. Anyway, i got my phone running after 3weeks and would like to use it normally for sometime now, i will be doing the this again once i get the proper setup at my place. Also the UART ports are correct as they are obtained by the service manual.
I have posted the service manual in the thread to avoid all the confusions already. Finding the receptacles is not easy for me as i'm unable to find them locally or online, samsung receptacles are easily available here in my country but they aren't seems suitable for this molex thats the only reason i did soldering on the molex legs itself.. Yes you are correct, the port which is posted is a jtag port and the wires connected are coming from my jtagbox.

UART test point MeiG Smart SLM750 M2M module

I want to read out MeiG Smart SLM750 Module, is it possible to hook up UART TTL and get somehow into the system? EDL mode would probably also do it. The PCB has multiple layers, no schematic available. But there are plenty test points on it.
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Just download the Hardware Design Manual from https://en.meigsmart.com/productdetail/slm750-module.html.
I'm too lazy to make an account for that.
You can find the pins on the module then do a continuity check to find more convenient places on the main PCB.
The logic level in undoubtedly 1.8V
Make sure that you're using a USB UART that handles that (and not the more common 3.3V).
I did the same thing with the Quectel EC25-AF module in a Netgear LM1200.

SLM750 Module—MeiG—A Global Leading Supplier of Cellular Modules and Solutions
Have you researched these instructions?

ze7zez said:
Have you researched these instructions?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's where I linked but you need an account to download.

Hm.. I don't have one but I have ordered 1.8V TTL. I checked all pins with DSO-138. I didn't see anything so probably device isn't powered.
edit: could not sign up. the register page does not take my chosen password.

alecxs said:
Hm.. I don't have one but I have ordered 1.8V TTL. I checked all pins with DSO-138. I didn't see anything so probably device isn't powered.
edit: could not sign up. the register page does not take my chosen password.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The password is 6-10 digits.
The web page is all screwed up:
Code:
Please enter your username Please enter 6-10 digit password
Please confirm your password Please enter your real name
Please enter your job title Please fill in the company name
Company website Please enter your phone number
Please enter the address Please enter your email account
Please fill in the verification code
Edit: Apparently they verify with SMS?
Your account has not been approved and you cannot log in temporarily
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

I think I figured test points based on the wiring colors. but device is completely dead so I don't see anything on oscilloscope.
any idea what the other two wires USB-DM and USB-DP are for?

alecxs said:
Any idea what the other two wires USB-DM and USB-DP are for?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
USB 2.0 D+ and D-
They're the data lines.

I know but what are they intended for, connecting both the UART and USB signals to the same USB port, or different ports? Assuming the UART signals (DBG-RX and DBG-TX) operate at 1.8V logic level and the USB-DM and USB-DB signals operate at 3.3V-5V logic level, connecting the UART signals to the FT232RL and the USB data pins to the PC is maybe not the best approach. The FT232RL board provides not even pins for D-/D+ so should I solder it?

alecxs said:
I know but what are they intended for, connecting both the UART and USB signals to the same USB port, or different ports?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They are unrelated except for sharing the same connector.
If this is going to be peripheral then there really should be an input for 5V labelled "Vbus".
Of course they could be playing fast and loose with the USB 2.0 standard too.
If this is going to be host then you'll need to supply +5V for the peripheral.

would be great to have usb so I could try edl. but there is no Vbus, only the usb data lines. there is one 5 V voltage on another connector (first) but that is power for the display. If I translated right, the pin 19 (third connector) is for boot mode.

The first test is to put a DVM on DP vs Gnd. See ~3V, it's waiting for a USB 2.0 full/high speed connection.
DVM on DM vs Gnd. See ~3V, it's waiting for a USB 2.0 low speed connection.
No ~3V anywhere? Then it's waiting to see 5V on Vbus or else the USB is just disabled.
(I've even made up a little adapter to check this with a couple of LEDs.)
If you see ~3V on DP, make yourself a 3 wire USB cable.
White = DM, Green = DP, Black = Gnd, Red gets insulated and not connected.
"Boot mode" is normally a GPIO input for EDL mode that is asserted with 1.8V
But don't just plow that voltage in! Use a nice resistor of 1k ohm or so in series.
Don't use a voltage higher than 1.8V! If you have a fresh 1.5V AA or AAA battery that should give you 1.6V, which is plenty.
Of course, you need to do a reset at the same time.

on the UART there is 7 mV an 16 mV, on the USB there is nothing.

alecxs said:
on the UART there is 7 mV an 16 mV, on the USB there is nothing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You sure that it's powered up?
Many (some?) of these things have two different UARTs.
If there is a Vbus connection that's not getting its 5V that may be the problem.
You need a real pinout of the module.
I never got an SMS back (but I forgot to put a +1 on my phone number).

the board is powered by 3.7 V battery and 25-42 V DC input (I don't have atm) for DC converter I tested with 12 V battery. not sure it is on at all. if there is a Vbus it must be self-powered as there is no pin for on the connector.

alecxs said:
the board is powered by 3.7 V battery and 25-42 V DC input (I don't have atm) for DC converter I tested with 12 V battery. not sure it is on at all. if there is a Vbus it must be self-powered as there is no pin for on the connector.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh, you mean it's Ethernet POE? Bring it over here. I have a 12V to 24V converter I use for my PtoMP microwave that uses POE.
Or I'd use my current sensing power supply to battery substitute to watch it boot up that way.
Are you sure the battery has any charge?
Also, between the module and the GPS antenna it looks like there was a power connector that ripped off?
Or are my eyes deceiving me?

Hehe I could send you one, but I am afraid the shipping from germany would take ages. The ripped off connector is for the piezo speaker, the battery connector is on the back site of the board, along with the main connector. Battery is charged and I can measure 3.9 V on the test point, but maybe needs additional wires to get powered.
I have also the pinout for the rest of the connector (see github of the picture in OP)
The next days I will connect it to its origin power source 36 V battery with full pinout and check again.
I am curious it is a android device I can maybe get a dump of the app data. it should not have any security as it is intended to boot up on mobile data without any user input. But it's not important to me, just for fun.

alecxs said:
I am curious it is a android device I can maybe get a dump of the app data.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wouldn't think that it is Android, but Android-ish.
I've run into this before with things using Android abl and Android image format but certainly not Android subsystem!
Is the 3.7V battery full size or backup size?
Many (some?) of these devices use NAND instead of eMMC and they are designed to have power disconnected without warning.
Do you have a bunch of these?
Also, your device has a squirrely jumper around a regulator (directly above GPS antenna).
Are they all like this?

there exist different revisions of that board, 95% identical, but all have these unused antenna connectors on it. I can't see any jumpers, that are spring contacts for more antennas in the cover. I don't know if there is any eMMC it's all under the hood.
the battery is only backup for GPS and GSM.

So I shorted the reed sensor and now on the oscilloscope I can definitely see 1.8 V transmission (on the yellow pin) but nothing on usb. will try to connect to PC and see what happens.