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I dropped my xda 1 twice and had to get it repaired. For my xda2 I tried to get a good, secure solution to cover it.
Proporta seems to have a perfect alu case, but I heard that there is a problem with the gsm/gprs connectivity in the closed case.
After getting the info, that there is no cutting in signal strength, I ordered a propota and got on saturday. It does really cut minimum two bars of signal strenth, that means in some areas there is no more signal at all ( in my home for example) and the xda is constantly searching a connection...
But there is a whole in the back beside the camera whole. This is meant for the connection of an external anntena.. So would it be possible to get a connector for that anntena and ad a selfmade thin anntena on the alu case from proporta. I´m absolutly double lefthanded concerning technical things: can anybody tell me if this might be possible and get a good signal in the closed alucase???
Link to proporta case
Do you have the link to the web-site- I have been looking for a secure case
Thnks
never had a prob with signal on my properta aluminium case for xda 1 :\
That's because the XDA I has a dirty great external aerial, whereas the XDA II has a built in one. Hence when you completely enclose it in aluminum it kills the signal.
i dont think it kills signal they wouldnt design a case that does that...
you can put a 3310 inside a metal tin and still ahve signal so it shouldnt effect an triband phone
Have a look at the many posts on these forums, and over at Tekguru, from people who own the Proporta case, including myself, and most say that it definitely does reduce signal strength. It doesn't actually kill it, but it reduces it by a good 2 bars, and lets face it if you're with O2 that's enought to kill it in most circumstances.
I can only report my own findings, but as far as I'm concerned it DEFINITELY reduces signal strength.
Rogh Case for XDAII
I only have an XDA I, but:
Send me a few XDA IIs and I'll make a super tough custom case for you. The material will be Kevlar* fiber reinforced plastic with a little carbon fiber reinforcement here and there. A case like that would cut absolutely no signal stength but withstand your girl stepping onto it with the heel of her stilettos or dropping it on the floor. For a few more XDA IIs I'll make it withstand driving over it in your car as well.
How much would you be willing to pay for such a case, in case you don't have any surplus XDA II to send me?
Martin Kopplow
* similar to the stuff they make bullet proof vests of, but not as flexible.
I have the proporta alu case for both my XDA and XDA II - no signal problems on either devices when in the closed case.
Jon.
These cases are now being sold through o2 store's.
We got 5 in today and there great well reccomended
What price, they are selling for 19.99 on ebay UK.
There going for £24.99 and there the same ones they eb=ven have the company name properta on the insdie.
We only got them today so I doubt any store has them on the shop floor so go in and ask for them
The manager did our ones for £10 so i'm happy.
I just received a message that Innopocket will do the aluminum case for the MDAII/XDAII as well. they will add them to their website today.
My XDA II Porporta Aluminium Case does not reduce my radio signal strength at all either.....Bluetooth remains the same.... :roll:
One thing to note about the Proporta Aluminium Case, the screw which goes onto the caseing itself for usage with the belt clip losens over a period of time casing the unit to drop off from your belt. Do take note of that. I had mine dropping off even though i was sure i had the screw really tight in the case itself :lol:
Hi,
I´ve cut a windows in the case to see who is calling. Signal strenght now is as good as w/o case.
regards
Wolfgang
Nice work
I also have to do some modification on the proporta case, because if you want to use the headphone, the plastic cover is in the way. so i have to make it a bit bigger in the cover
xtac said:
My XDA II Porporta Aluminium Case does not reduce my radio signal strength at all either.....Bluetooth remains the same.... :roll:
One thing to note about the Proporta Aluminium Case, the screw which goes onto the caseing itself for usage with the belt clip losens over a period of time casing the unit to drop off from your belt. Do take note of that. I had mine dropping off even though i was sure i had the screw really tight in the case itself :lol:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have put a drop of Loctite on the threads so when tightened it will never come loose.
But I never use the darn thing now as it kills off the signal completly. 2 bars at the best of time round here.
Might be interested in the kevlar idea if it looks cool. Thats the reason I have an Alu case cos it looks cool.
I have the proporta Al case and it drops at least 2 bars when it is enclosed too. I also had the idea of a flexible thin antenna attached to the back of the case but I can't seem to find the details on the external antenna connector.
If the external antenna connectors are proprietary, why doesn't O2 release the connector? How can a company advertise having the ability to connect to an external antenna if the plug is not available to fit the socket? Does anyone know if the antenna connectors are the same between xda2 and iMate?
It gets even more annoying when it has been out of range for a few minutes and it gets lazy and decides to stop trying to reconnect to GSM and seems to crash the radio stack.
snowdude said:
I have the proporta Al case and it drops at least 2 bars when it is enclosed too. I also had the idea of a flexible thin antenna attached to the back of the case but I can't seem to find the details on the external antenna connector.
If the external antenna connectors are proprietary, why doesn't O2 release the connector? How can a company advertise having the ability to connect to an external antenna if the plug is not available to fit the socket? Does anyone know if the antenna connectors are the same between xda2 and iMate?
It gets even more annoying when it has been out of range for a few minutes and it gets lazy and decides to stop trying to reconnect to GSM and seems to crash the radio stack.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I too have been looking for the connector for months now, with no luck.
I have also noticed once the phone is out of range for a few minutes, it never bothers to try and reconnect. I am hoping the new firmware will fix this.
I have just installed the new radio stack et al. It may lower the chances of the stack crashing or giving up trying to connect, but I doubt it will provide greater coverage.
it's a nice case mod that one though i would prob put in some windowish thing to protect the screen if it fell on a sharp corner
Hello to everyone,
I recently found a piece of hanging tape on my Ozone. I attempted to stick it back but it wouldn't stick - so I took it off since the back wouldn't fit on the phone afterward.
Since I live in a rural area, the tape seemed to have completely degraded my signal coverage! I have no verizon signal, only when I put my finger on the taped off areas. The moment I remove my finger, signal is lost.
Anyone know what type of tape this is and what I can do to replace it? Does it like... contain some strip of aluminum to strengthen signal coverage?
I'm disappointed in the ozone now, very very cheap.
The tape is located around the camera lense and extends around the speakers to the top of the device.
With all due respect-
Tomi
I just took a look at the back of my Ozone, that tape you are referring to is attached pretty snug like. As many times that I dropped my phone and that back cover pop off, there appears to be no wear or tear.
In hindsight, probably would have been better to have left the tape alone or smoothed it out so that the cover would close. It can only be assumed that the antenna is somehow meshed in that tape as it appears to be the only logical place for it to be due to the overwhelming size of the battery. Your loss of signal confirms this.
I hope you got insurance on your phone. Pay the $50.00 and have it replaced.
jtraveler said:
I just took a look at the back of my Ozone, that tape you are referring to is attached pretty snug like. As many times that I dropped my phone and that back cover pop off, there appears to be no wear or tear.
In hindsight, probably would have been better to have left the tape alone or smoothed it out so that the cover would close. It can only be assumed that the antenna is somehow meshed in that tape as it appears to be the only logical place for it to be due to the overwhelming size of the battery. Your loss of signal confirms this.
I hope you got insurance on your phone. Pay the $50.00 and have it replaced.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not sure, I called the company but I have already used 2 claims on my older Motorola Q, one time when I lost it in my junior year of Highschool last year and this summer where my replacement fell into a swimming pool and I had to get another one. So I can't use the company anymore.
I ordered one of those "antenna boosters" from amazon, seeing that they are tape too - I''m wondering if that'll work?
I want to figure a solution out to what can be done if this happens to other ozone users who remove the tape from the back of the phone. The fact of the matter is, the ozone is a cheap phone if it has to have tape on the back of it just to sustain signal coverage. It really is a shame. Not only this, the phone overheats so fast when I use wmwifirouter to access internet, it's not even funny. I'm using my old Q now and that doesn't heat up to 25% of what the Ozone got to.
Does anyone know what this material could be and how i could replace it? would putting a copper wire or an aluminum piece help? I miss evdo rev.a, which my Q9m does not have and since I live in the woods with a 1.5 mile long driveway evdo rev. a helped a lot with internet service. Otherwise I have dial-up at home, and evdo rev.0 on the q is a lot slower. So I miss my ozone to a degree..
Thanks -
Tomi
I am currently working on a case for the atrix that is milled out of a solid block of aluminum using a cnc machine that a will be air tight around the phone except where the speaker is on the phone there will be and a so called PORT for the sound to be forced throught that will be directed to the front of the phone using a port that will be front facing so you dont have to cup your hand around your phone to hear things, it also will have a kickstand if you all have any other ideas to incorporate into this aluminum case please feel free to post
Have you tried this with aluminum foil? You might save yourself some wasted effort.
I'm thinking such a case could have deleterious effects on some or all of the various bands of the RF spectrum. There are 3 RF based features on these phones. GPS is likely to be the most affected based on signal strength. Reduced range for both WiFi and cell is likely.
I may be wrong and hope I am. I am speculating as I have no idea where the various antennae on these phones are located.
OOPS, I forgot about Bluetooth.
Well... i think it all depends on the case, really. I mean... look at the iPhone 4. Has that whole Antennagate issue... yet companies like ElementCase release the Vapor 4... an aluminum band that get's affixed around the phone, covering the coveted antenna band.
Kickstand yeee..
Looks like an amazing case the kickstand is huge +. If the sound changes even a little bit will be a disadvantage. Engraved styles is what you can add, some parts you can make glossy other brushed. As for assembly I'd like it to be two parts with screws like the vapor bumper, but for most people will be a drawback.Shouldn't be thick since the atrix is pretty thick already. And also have you tought of doing a battery door replacement to incorporate those things. If you are making them for sale I'd like to know because it sounds like an awesome case.
nikidorian said:
Looks like an amazing case the kickstand is huge +. If the sound changes even a little bit will be a disadvantage. Engraved styles is what you can add, some parts you can make glossy other brushed. As for assembly I'd like it to be two parts with screws like the vapor bumper, but for most people will be a drawback.Shouldn't be thick since the atrix is pretty thick already. And also have you tought of doing a battery door replacement to incorporate those things. If you are making them for sale I'd like to know because it sounds like an awesome case.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Atrix could stand to be thicker. Not too fond of the thinnest phone eva craze.
Iphone > galaxy s 2.
Lie the phone on an aluminum desk and watch your service fade away. I have an aluminum desk at work for drafting and I gi from 3 bars to no service at all if I set it on my desk. Pick it up about 6 inches and bame, 3 bars again. Im right in front of a window too. I have to put my phone up on my filing stand. Once phones went with internal antennas, metal casings had to go. Im pretty sure it will kill the signal at 3 bars and lower. Mill it out of abs and it will be a hot item. For those wanting a thicker phone, do a search for extended batteries. They come with a modified back case that's thicker to accommodate the fat battery. Almost an 1/8th to 1/4 inch thicker.
Sent from my MB860 using xda premium
Dirtburgler said:
Lie the phone on an aluminum desk and watch your service fade away. I have an aluminum desk at work for drafting and I gi from 3 bars to no service at all if I set it on my desk. Pick it up about 6 inches and bame, 3 bars again. Im right in front of a window too. I have to put my phone up on my filing stand. Once phones went with internal antennas, metal casings had to go. Im pretty sure it will kill the signal at 3 bars and lower. Mill it out of abs and it will be a hot item. For those wanting a thicker phone, do a search for extended batteries. They come with a modified back case that's thicker to accommodate the fat battery. Almost an 1/8th to 1/4 inch thicker.
Sent from my MB860 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Those fat batterys are horribly ugly. No one wants a fat block sticking out the phone. We want a little thicker door to make the phone feel more solid and look the same.
Everything works fine (except for the camera focus, which I can live with since everything is in focus always as it is because it shoots at like f/8). What's weird is that it has survived so many other falls onto concrete, and this just happens now.
I really need to replace the glass as soon as possible. It looks pretty unprofessional cracked like this.. I am out of warranty (bought the phone in September 2010 from T-Mobile), and T-Mobile no longer has any G2s .
I've looked through a few people who have mentioned replacing their front glass, and would like to do so myself. Anyone have advice regarding how I could do this?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-dR8CHEGjY
less than $20 for new digitizer, takes 30min -- leave yourself an hour if your new to this
Sweet thanks! Looking forward to getting this done. Will keep this thread updated.
Ordered it from the website. Hopefully will get it soon.
captainreynolds said:
Ordered it from the website. Hopefully will get it soon.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I highly advise AGAINST super glue for securing the digitizer.
silverton said:
I highly advise AGAINST super glue for securing the digitizer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Okay - what would you recommend instead?
the glue that is on your phone now will sufice. when heat it up with hair dryer (be carefull if you use a heat gun) most of it will stay along the frame of your phone. just keep it warm and quickly put new digitizer back. have done it twice now with g2s and countless times with g1s and no dust has ever seeped in.
but with g1s i often replaced the casing as well. here i would use 3m double sided tape that worked very well. if you are also replacing the case or for some reason dont feel the glue is enough use this
Sent from my HTC Vision using xda premium
I recommend 2mm 3M adhesive tape. I have used it for the 3 g2s I own and it holds darn well. Its less then 5 bucks on amazon and you will have quite a bit of it. Dont use glue. I always take off that old black tape.
http://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Sticker-Digitizer-Supersonic-Incredible/dp/B004WIQW3U
demkantor said:
the glue that is on your phone now will sufice. when heat it up with hair dryer (be carefull if you use a heat gun) most of it will stay along the frame of your phone. just keep it warm and quickly put new digitizer back. have done it twice now with g2s and countless times with g1s and no dust has ever seeped in.
but with g1s i often replaced the casing as well. here i would use 3m double sided tape that worked very well. if you are also replacing the case or for some reason dont feel the glue is enough use this
Sent from my HTC Vision using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Okay - thanks for this!
Darkseid83 said:
I recommend 2mm 3M adhesive tape. I have used it for the 3 g2s I own and it holds darn well. Its less then 5 bucks on amazon and you will have quite a bit of it. Dont use glue. I always take off that old black tape.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The tape doesn't make the digitizer bulge away from the surface at all? I feel like it would. I'll give that link a buy though, just in case.
the tape he and i is refuring to is thinner than paper, i have not needed it for a g2 before but only have done 2 digitizers on these so i cant say its never necessary unless you are replacing the case as well, but its cheap to have around and may be needed
Sent from my HTC Vision using xda premium
The tape doesn't make the digitizer bulge away from the surface at all? I feel like it would. I'll give that link a buy though, just in case
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No if you stack it right I had to stack three pieces of that tape to flush it. It does not move around if you tape in the right spots. Its very thin and almost invisible.
That is weird... I did the SAME thing last week lol! I busted it on the concrete too and everything. It scratched up the bezel pretty bad too. I had insurance so I ended up getting the MT4GS (aka HTC Doubleshot). I love how speedy it is but I REALLY miss the development here and the GREAT community here in the Desire Z/G2 sub forum As far as repairing/replacing the screen (the digitizer specifically), everyone here gave great advice. I used to repair phones for a number of years and we always used a sealant very similar to double sided tape that y'all were mentioning. It basically was foaming glue that acted similar to silicon or something. I agree that about not using super glue. Bad idea. Also be careful with the ribbon wires and watch a few videos prior to disassembly. There were a few tear down threads here I'd keep handy while repairing. Good luck to ya!
Make sure you are VERY careful when removing the lcd its very fragile. I reaced my digitizer easy and was careful and lcd got mrssed up ie no pic. Ordered a new lcd and it had not brightness control always dim waiting for new replacement now. Side note once new screen comes in I will be selling this phone if anyone is interested i have 3 of them only need 2
Sent from my SGH-T959V using XDA
Son of gun. The last three screws I need to remove do NOT fit with the philips head screwdriver that was recommended. Now I get to scramble around with my phone in pieces trying to find a smaller philips head screwdriver. Awesome.
They are philips head, not torque screws. I checked and triple checked.
Anyone have any idea what to do here? I can't find smaller screwdrivers anywhere. Home depot has got nada.
Go out and buy a precision screwdriver set or maybe a eye glasses repair kit. Only the first 3 screws are torx T5. Also there is 7 of them tiny ones not 3. There is 3 on either side and one more under keyboard backstop
Sent from my SGH-T959V using XDA
anoymonos said:
Go out and buy a precision screwdriver set or maybe a eye glasses repair kit. Only the first 3 screws are torx T5. Also there is 7 of them tiny ones not 3. There is 3 on either side and one more under keyboard backstop
Sent from my SGH-T959V using XDA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No it's the three screws across the back at this time (http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=u-dR8CHEGjY#t=251s).
They are smaller than all the others and I still cannot get them out. I cannot find an eye glasses repair kit or precision screwdriver set small enough.
http://www.repairsuniverse.com sent me the screwdrivers for the Inspire 4G. Pretty sure the digitizer is for the G2 but I'll have to check the screen sizes to make sure.
Update. Fry's elecronics had a repair kit for smartphones that fit the screws. Still working on it.
captainreynolds said:
No it's the three screws across the back at this time (http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=u-dR8CHEGjY#t=251s).
They are smaller than all the others and I still cannot get them out. I cannot find an eye glasses repair kit or precision screwdriver set small enough.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
if you keep watching the video you will see that when he removes the sticky keyboard backstop there are three more identical size screws mirrored from the ones you are talking about right on edge of phone, and then when you remove that piece after you remove the screws there wiil be one more (this makes number 7 ) screw of the same size tiny. Also i dont think it is metioned in the video but when you go to remove the keyboard backstop (the shiny piece under the sticky strip ) use your safe pry tool to unlock the tabs from the edge and then you must slide the piece towards the center of the phone it does not just pry off there are tiny tabs holding one side down opposite of the screws ( edge of phone ) And as far as the screwdriver for eye glasses repair, is it you cant find one or it just does not work? You should be able to find one at any walgreens or equivalent drug store or pharmacy. You could also try a hobby shop they might have something that will work. I personally use quite a big screwdriver to disassemble you just need to make sure it has a sharp point at the tip of the star ( mine is a phillips number 00 ) Believe me once you get it apart once you will be that was so easy.
This is the way I fixed the wifi\bluetooth error with continuous rebooting on my Atrix.
I did not come up with it, and I do not guarantee it will work in your device, I'm simply sharing this because it's information that's hard to find and understand. I fixed my device in this way, so have others. I do not take responsability for any damage you might make to your device attempting this fix, and I do not claim it will work forever - it's been two days for me and still great!
For completeness sake, if you guys want to check other proposed fixes and some reasons why they might or might not work, here is this great post by mvniekerk, a person more far more knowlegble then me when it comes to these technological issues:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1655071
I'd also like to thank John-aurelio, junior member, who initially posted about this fix here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1655071&page=4
All credit goes to him!
So, what did I do?
1) I cut out two rectagular pieces of plastic from a pill tin, glued them on top of each other with scotch tape. I think any thin piece of plastic should do.
2) Opened up my Atrix by removing screws with a T5 Torx screwdriver. If you don't know how to do this check out this teardown by ifixit: http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Motorola+Atrix+4G+Teardown/4964/1
3) Slightly raised the motherboard and placed the plastic rectangle under it, with a little bit sticking out into the battery compartment.
To my amazement it worked, it is still working.
I wanted to tell you guys why, but I don't know. Perhaps one of you guys wants to experiment applying pressure to each component separately to find out the culprit?
Also, I'm curious to know if this will work for all of you, or just some of you.
Here are the pics:
This last one is the piece of tin\plastic with tape, side by side with a pencil for scale. Its not the tin I used, but its basically the same, but the one I used has white paint, I don't know if should make a difference. If you're worried about shorts just cover the whole thing in tape or cut plastic from a bottle or something.
The first two are how its supposed to look in the end.
[EDIT]: Here are some more pics:
This is the piece of plastic I used. It doesn't show, but it is very thin, one milimiter thick, if even.
These are of the open device. In the last one the plastic piece is a little eschewed, but you get the idea.
Cheerios
Huh. This is similar to the fix some people did with the digitizer problem. Seems like the the connectors on this phone tend to come loose, to where pressure in the right direction will fix it.
Sent from my MB860 using xda app-developers app
Newbleeto said:
This is the way I fixed the wifi\bluetooth error with continuous rebooting on my Atrix.
I did not come up with it, and I do not guarantee it will work in your device, I'm simply sharing this because it's information that's hard to find and understand. I fixed my device in this way, so have others. I do not take responsability for any damage you might make to your device attempting this fix, and I do not claim it will work forever - it's been two days for me and still great!
For completeness sake, if you guys want to check other proposed fixes and some reasons why they might or might not work, here is this great post by mvniekerk, a person more far more knowlegble then me when it comes to these technological issues:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1655071
I'd also like to thank John-aurelio, junior member, who initially posted about this fix here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1655071&page=4
All credit goes to him!
So, what did I do?
1) I cut out two rectagular pieces of plastic from a pill tin, glued them on top of each other with scotch tape. I think any thin piece of plastic should do.
2) Opened up my Atrix by removing screws with a T5 Torx screwdriver.
3) Slightly raised the motherboard and placed the plastic rectangle under it, with a little bit sticking out into the battery compartment.
To my amazement it worked, it is still working.
I wanted to tell you guys why, but I don't know. Perhaps one of you guys wants to experiment applying pressure to each component separately to find out the culprit?
Also, I'm curious to know if this will work for all of you, or just some of you.
Here are the pics:
This last one is the piece of tin\plastic with tape, side by side with a pencil for scale. Its not the tin I used, but its basically the same, but the one I used has white paint, I don't know if should make a difference. If you're worried about shorts just cover the whole thing in tape or cut plastic from a bottle or something.
The first two are how its supposed to look in the end.
Sorry for no open device pics, I did this yesterday and don't really feel like opening my phone, but if you guys think its needed I'll do it later.
Cheerios
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A detailed How To to show us what to do exactly, we can do much ourselves with just this pics. :/
EDIT: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYz_RiuFVRk had anyone seen this?
Will try this with my wifi broken atrix tomorrow.
guidoido004 said:
A detailed How To to show us what to do exactly, we can do much ourselves with just this pics. :/
EDIT: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYz_RiuFVRk had anyone seen this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's literally as simple as opening the atrix and placing the plastic under the motherboard, I don't think it gets any easier then that. But I'll try to take more photos.
As for that video, there are reports of people killing their mobiles by breaking the piece holding the battery or killing the nearby ICs trying that. That guy is just too rough. Also, it doesn't show the battery actually being replaced. If you wanna try to replace the battery, better do it gently and stay clear of that video
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
If the solution is to apply pressure to certain parts of the board then it's likely similar to the infamous nVidia issues from around 2008 where the chips were getting hot enough to expand and brake the solder connection or in some cases, rip some of the pads from the board. If that is the case, be careful, as flexing the board the wrong way could eventually lead to making it worse over time.
I can't believe this actually worked. Been using my Atrix for the whole weekend on WIFI. Also finally been able to use my Lapdock properly.
Thanks so much for such a simple fix.
If its any help to anyone, I ended up using an old debit card, as its seems the perfect height to give enough pressure on the board.
It did take a few goes, but as long as you persist with it, it works really well. Plus no more over heating too.
Thanks again
holy crap. 5 minutes and its fixed! thank you
Cause found??
Hi everybody,
I might have an idea what causes the wifi errors. As the wifi gets fixed by changing the motherboard's position, the motherboard is not fastened properly. This might be caused by the vibration function that is located on the part of the motherboard you would need to move up.(see the location of the vibrationfuction in the attachment.)
If so, should this function be less used then?
Thanks Newbleeto! I was so frustrated with this issue. I was initially trying based that youtube video link by someone else which never worked for me. I later decided to try your solution and it worked for me the very first time Appreciate your help!
Thanks, seems to work!
What an interesting tweak. There some validity to this. The Atrix 4G is notorious for wifi, bluetooth, and GPS dropout. This is largely due to kernel and rom. However I have seem plenty of Atrix4Gs with loose antenna clamps. Usually I apply a little pressure in the outside of the clamp to reform it slightly so it will maintain hold on the reciever socket. Second thing I look at is the shielding around the mainboard. This acts as a heatsink and guard. If depressed in anyway will cause massive heating along with grounding. The antenna clusters are not well separated from RF interference from one another to begin with. Metal in general will restricted RF signals considerably depending on its frequency. The greater the frequency the lower it's ability to perpetrate materials.
From the looks of it your directing RF crossover and bounce back away from each antenna. This is a good thing. It also means as long as the phone is not held on its edge towards any receiving end it won't effect talk and data very much.
My experiments with the Atrix4G always had a bit of unpredictable outcome when it came to pressure on the ribbon connections. This would result in the screen blacking out, digitizer over sensitive or non responsive, failure to boot and so on. Pressure is a big deal with these phones so be careful.
Happy tinkering
IT WORKS
after nearly 4 months of this bug i finally had the guts to open up my phone and do this fix.
and it is working , my wifi is back thank you OP. :highfive::highfive::highfive::highfive::highfive::highfive::highfive::highfive::highfive::highfive::highfive::highfive::victory::victory:
This method works wonderfully. Thanks, OP!
sangyum said:
This method works wonderfully. Thanks, OP!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Spoke too soon. This fix stopped working after two days.... Back to Wifi Error and boot loop. :crying:
I got my wifi to work again, there are two snap on connectors on the same side of the phone. I put 2x pieces of toilet paper cardboard between the frame of the phone and the connector, pushing the connector tighter to the other side.
I'd like to confrm that it works to me !
Thank you, I spent dozens of hours to try solve it.
Newbleeto said:
This is the way I fixed the wifi\bluetooth error with continuous rebooting on my Atrix.
I did not come up with it, and I do not guarantee it will work in your device, I'm simply sharing this because it's information that's hard to find and understand. I fixed my device in this way, so have others. I do not take responsability for any damage you might make to your device attempting this fix, and I do not claim it will work forever - it's been two days for me and still great!
For completeness sake, if you guys want to check other proposed fixes and some reasons why they might or might not work, here is this great post by mvniekerk, a person more far more knowlegble then me when it comes to these technological issues:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1655071
I'd also like to thank John-aurelio, junior member, who initially posted about this fix here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1655071&page=4
All credit goes to him!
So, what did I do?
1) I cut out two rectagular pieces of plastic from a pill tin, glued them on top of each other with scotch tape. I think any thin piece of plastic should do.
2) Opened up my Atrix by removing screws with a T5 Torx screwdriver. If you don't know how to do this check out this teardown by ifixit: http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Motorola+Atrix+4G+Teardown/4964/1
3) Slightly raised the motherboard and placed the plastic rectangle under it, with a little bit sticking out into the battery compartment.
To my amazement it worked, it is still working.
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Cheerios
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Click to collapse
I did this as well, and it's been working perfectly for over a week now. Battery life has tripled to 24h (back where it used to be, what a relief) and the wifi is back to being perfect.
In my case, I cut a small piece out of an old credit card and inserted into the section highlighted in the attached picture, inside to out (from the battery bay towards the side). There are flat cables/strips underneath and you probably don't want to insert your spacer material from the outside in. Make sure that the plastic strip fits completely underneath the board, otherwise you won't be able to properly close the back.
Thanks!
To add some data to this can all of you confirm the kernel and rom you are useing before and after this mod. Would help all of us in the future for reference. Thanks.
Cab121 said:
To add some data to this can all of you confirm the kernel and rom you are useing before and after this mod. Would help all of us in the future for reference. Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure, no problem!
Atrix 4G (Bell Canada)
Unlocked and rooted by yours truly (don't ask how, I'm still not sure I know what I did)
CynaogenMod 10.1 from epinter: Megathread or linuxmobile.org site, builds 2013-08-07 + hporch32 kernel (before and after mod) & 2013-08-26 + hporch32 kernel (after mod)
Radio: Telstra N_01.87.00R