i have a htc hd2 its unlocked so i can use with att... but da screen doesnt work ... can someone know how to fix this problem ... thank u
Sent from my SGH-I897 using XDA App
replace the digitizer. there are lots of threads related to this issue.
maniaco312 said:
i have a htc hd2 its unlocked so i can use with att... but da screen doesnt work ... can someone know how to fix this problem ... thank u
Sent from my SGH-I897 using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
before replacing the digitizer (touch) make this test: 1) pull the battery 2) remove the 4 screws on the chassis 3) tries to pull out the display with its gently pushing on the middle board of the previous screw holes 4) when you removed body touch logic board, heated with a phone at a maximum temperature of the perimeter touch.5), making sure everything goes back to the volume button when close.
If necessary, follow this guide for disassembly.
worked with my HD2 but still remains a temporary solution as physically for the bad quality 'of the glass, is the detachment of the conductive material.
http://pockethacks.com/htc-hd2-disassembly-and-assembly-video-guide/
Related
Ok, i have had my g2 for almost a year and i have put a bunch of different cases on it and still my g2 its all bit up. Is there a way that can replace the body frame from a dummy phone they look the same to me and the dummy phone is practically new
Sent from my HTC Desire Z using XDA Premium App
having opened my phone to replace the spring, i can tell u that at least the back is really easy to replace; just take out three screws and it snaps right off with a prying tool. The body on the screen portion is alot harder though If you want to go any further, i dont see any reason why the dummy body wouldnt fit... as long as you dont replace the digitizer with the dummy's glass
sephiroth1439 said:
having opened my phone to replace the spring, i can tell u that at least the back is really easy to replace; just take out three screws and it snaps right off with a prying tool. The body on the screen portion is alot harder though If you want to go any further, i dont see any reason why the dummy body wouldnt fit... as long as you dont replace the digitizer with the dummy's glass
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok well i am going to try it and report back to see how it went
Sent from my HTC Desire Z using XDA Premium App
I dont't know how it is with HTC devices but I can tell you that it isnt possible for example with Sony Ericsson dummys. The dummies don't use any screws but some kind of glue if I'm right. As far as I know only the external look is the same but not the internal.
I just got a new (my second) hd2 and sombody bumped into me at a restaraunt and....yeah i think you all know where this is headed. Anyways i ordered a new digitizer today and the necessary tools to dis/reassemble it. Has anyone attempted this succesfully. I know i purchased the non solder version as my hd2 is for tmous. Im worried its over my head but i dont want to chicken out and have to pay some a$$ an outrageous amount of money to do it for me. Any help will be appreciated thanks! ps ive watched every youtube video i can find and looked at a ton of pics, so im not totally in the dark lol, just wanted some real world advice.
Sent from my SGH-T959V using Tapatalk
Anyone?
Sent from my SGH-T959V using Tapatalk
Put simply it is not the easiest.
most people will break the LCD either from prying the back cover or during LCD Digi separation.
personally I go for LCD Digi combo (300 type) pre assembled & drop it in. About 25bucks more expensive but no issues with wrong Digi casing depth, button alignment dust ect.
the 3M tape method is far from the best really as bonding surface width is not wide enough.
Badly bonded screen allow dust entry & are more easily broken as good & full perimeter bonding increases strength & absorbs impacts more evenly.
I have done Digi remounting with a tack bonder uhu40 applied finely via syringe & allowed to cure slightly prior to assembly, gives a dust proof finish & allows original Digi to cover hight but takes time to do well & get digi alignment correct.
The top tip is simply be gentle, volume button is easily damaged & the screen connector on the mainboard is easily damaged.
It is possible to do screen without fully lifting the flex board & stripping all wires as seen in most vids.
I recommend peeling build label then peeling flex board, build label comes up quite easily then you can see exactly what is happening to flexboard & thus prevent possible damage.
If you buy full LCD/Digi assembly & take care the result & finish can be perfect or better if upgrading from a 295 assembly.
If going just Digi end result really depends on how well you bond Digi to LCD.
Bench testing new assembly with main & flexboard running on battery & button pad held in place with a little tape is a good idea before final build.
Also check all antenna spring legs are correctly positioned suitable for good contact with mating pads inside rear cover, failure results in low or no wifi &/or radio signal.
If you do have some natural skill with tools & engineering practices then it is not too troublesome.
Most people who have faults are all down to rough dismantling ...
Also worth mentioning the myth of the end key having the screen cable run under it; it does not, LCD finishes 2mm above end key & no LCD or Digi cables run under the end key or any of the buttons/button flexboard.
The screen flex does curl around edge of LCD above end key but is taped & not easily rubbed by endkey.
Most endkey related non responding digis to me is actually button flexboard issue.
I worked on many dumbphones between 2003-2008. After a while it became routine, even delicate phones like the Moto RAZR V6 MAXX.
The HD2 is extremely difficult, not only to replace the digitizer, but to make sure you position it right and don't leave it in such a way that dust gets under the screen. Getting it back together is not simple either since it has a number of little wires that have to be placed just so. I ended up paying some a$$ to do it for me, because it was too much.
With lots of concentration and dedication, it can be done though!
Ok thanks for the halp cancelled my order for the digi alone. And one more thing... Will a lcd/digi assembly with the "295" work on the hd2 for tmous? ive googled it and came up with mixed results. it seems the "295" is the debranded one for euro hd2s and the 300 is for US phones. I understand that the digitizers are different in that the euro one has a soldiered connectin to the lcd ribbon and the us one has a clip. BUT, will this affect anything as far as the connection to the mobo? the 295 one is cheaper but is it compatable? Much thanks!
Sent from my SGH-T959V using Tapatalk
295 & 300 types can be swapped & 295 can be put in TMOUS although I would not go that route as the 300 type is a far better quality type of Digi & the diifference in price if any is minimal.
Found a 300 lcd/digi combo for 56.99 on ebay
Sent from my SGH-T959V using Tapatalk
leo321 said:
Found a 300 lcd/digi combo for 56.99 on ebay
Sent from my SGH-T959V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It was actually cheaper than the 295s lol guess i overlooked it. Im liking this galaxy s2 right now B)
Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk
Sorry to bring up my dead thread, but I was wondering if its possible to just remove the LCD+digi and pop in another one without seperating the mainbord and rigid flexboard from the metal frame? I saw a YouTube video with this type of disassembly process (removing the LCD first) but is the space between the connector and the hole in the frame large enough for it to be connected? If not I might just make the hole big enough . I don't want to have to take it completely apart... I suppose its laziness thanks!
Sent from my SGH-T959V using Tapatalk
Not really, you need to swing the board out to release catch for ribbon cable.
To be honest removing the flexboard is quite easy if done with care & all cables running down by volume button do not need complete removal.
You can do it by not copletely removing flexboard but to me it is more awkward & could strain parts if not very carefull.
Mister B said:
Not really, you need to swing the board out to release catch for ribbon cable.
To be honest removing the flexboard is quite easy if done with care & all cables running down by volume button do not need complete removal.
You can do it by not copletely removing flexboard but to me it is more awkward & could strain parts if not very carefull.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What im saying is can I just swing the screen to the side and unhook it? Then replace it without removing anything on the other side of the frame.
Sent from my SGH-T959V using Tapatalk
I think no as will not be able to remove caption tape & ribbon catch without swinging mainboard but have a look first.
This might help you
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=16718344&postcount=16
It worked for me when replacing my digitizer/screen though it was alittle pain to reconnect the ribbon to the motherboard its well worth it. Just have patience's
leo321 said:
What im saying is can I just swing the screen to the side and unhook it? Then replace it without removing anything on the other side of the frame.
Sent from my SGH-T959V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mister B is correct
Sent from my LG-P999 using xda premium
kompheak said:
Mister B is correct
Sent from my LG-P999 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
+1 on this.
10 char
Hows it going guys!
After many days of using this awesome forum, I decided to finally join!
So to start things off, I will be asking you guys a question....
Anyone know whats the little gold plated thing on the back, behind the batt. cover of the phone, wondering if it has anything to do with the battery, or some sort of sensor???
There is also a white area on the back of the actual battery cover of the MT4G which I think is the contact point for the gold plated thingy!?
Thanks guys...
Regards,
blackeye
I think it has something to do with grounding, maybe for the screen. I could be way off.
Sent from my Glacier using XDA
estallings15 said:
I think it has something to do with grounding, maybe for the screen. I could be way off.
Sent from my Glacier using XDA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
sounds possible!
the reason I ask is because I decided to run my glacier without the battery cover using a case then i noticed my battery started acting funny, it didnt hold its charger very well and didnt charge fully......wondering if the 2 are related somehow!?
"Little gold plated thing" = contact point.
If it's behind battery cover, and battery cover has a matching "window" of bare metal for this contact - look for more contacts that touch the battery cover.
If you only find one - it means the battery cover is used as one of the antennas for this phone (cellular / WiFi / BT).
If you find several - it might be used as grounded shield.
Jack_R1 said:
"Little gold plated thing" = contact point.
If it's behind battery cover, and battery cover has a matching "window" of bare metal for this contact - look for more contacts that touch the battery cover.
If you only find one - it means the battery cover is used as one of the antennas for this phone (cellular / WiFi / BT).
If you find several - it might be used as grounded shield.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks man appreciate it!
So the glacier theoretically should get great reception then...I'm guessing!
Regards,
Blackeye
Sent from my HTC Glacier using XDA
Mine don't have them..I have 3, Me my wife & a spare..
Sent from my HTC Glacier using xda premium
The little gold contact on the battery cover has been discussed here before, probably in a thread that is buried. The conclusion: the ground contact point for the screen. Pic attached to show what the OP is talking about.
Sent from my HTC Glacier using XDA
I couldn't find such thread in 10 min of googling, so I did what was probably done back then - verified the location of main antenna (which is on the plastic cover with camera glass), checked WiFi and GPS reception. None of those changed. It leaves either BT (which I can't check) or, indeed, grounding.
Jack_R1 said:
I couldn't find such thread in 10 min of googling, so I did what was probably done back then - verified the location of main antenna (which is on the plastic cover with camera glass), checked WiFi and GPS reception. None of those changed. It leaves either BT (which I can't check) or, indeed, grounding.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Seams like it would between the two!!
Sent from my HTC Glacier using XDA
Just a thought but I could have to do with the sensor for temperature.
Temperature sensor can't be embedded in the back cover, and the point is for electrical, not thermal contact.
Upon further review, only 1 of the 3 mt4g's that I have has the gold plate at all. It's possible it could be nothing significant.
Sent from my HTC Glacier using xda premium
The thread I referred to earlier is here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1205155.
In the first post, in the update area at the bottom of the post, it points to a thread in the sensation forum. The pics in that sensation thread show that they have a silver colored plate on their cover almost identical to the mytouch4G's gold plate. The plate is conductive paint that creates contact between the metal of the back cover and a gold pin between the sim and sd cards on our phones. It is located directly above the main board of the phone, near the bottom of the device. The pin can be bent or fatigued to no longer create a good, solid contact with the plate.
The main solution proposed in both threads is to gently lift the pin with a pick to raise its height and create better contact with the plate and is done to have better touch screen response.
dclaw_fantum said:
The thread I referred to earlier is here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1205155.
In the first post, in the update area at the bottom of the post, it points to a thread in the sensation forum. The pics in that sensation thread show that they have a silver colored plate on their cover almost identical to the mytouch4G's gold plate. The plate is conductive paint that creates contact between the metal of the back cover and a gold pin between the sim and sd cards on our phones. It is located directly above the main board of the phone, near the bottom of the device. The pin can be bent or fatigued to no longer create a good, solid contact with the plate.
The main solution proposed in both threads is to gently lift the pin with a pick to raise its height and create better contact with the plate and is done to have better touch screen response.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is interesting!
So if true then the concept would be useless if we have cases on our phones...since our hands won't make contact with the back cover anymore....right!???
Sent from my HTC Glacier using XDA
blackeye09 said:
That is interesting!
So if true then the concept would be useless if we have cases on our phones...since our hands won't make contact with the back cover anymore....right!???
Sent from my HTC Glacier using XDA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, it isn't using your hands to complete the circuit. The phone chassis is mostly metal, but the main board is surrounded by plastic. It looks like they found it more cost effective to ground to the cover than run a wire to a part of the chassis. Looking at the sensation cover, this makes sense. The sensation cover is metal and plastic and they put a contact point on the metal of it too. If it is anything like what I deal with at my work, then they are just trying to provide the phone with a system wide consistent ground. Without grounding the back cover, it could induce or conduct a static charge and possibly shock or create interfere to the main board. When the ground has bad contact, we notice a lag in screen responsiveness, but other things may be happening that we don't notice.
Someone mentioned that the antennas are located near the camera, which is true for at least the WiFi antenna. You will see a drop in signal if you hold the phone near the camera. They also mentioned that the top area of the phone has metal readily available. I would suspect that the other antennas are there too.
dclaw_fantum said:
No, it isn't using your hands to complete the circuit. The phone chassis is mostly metal, but the main board is surrounded by plastic. It looks like they found it more cost effective to ground to the cover than run a wire to a part of the chassis. Looking at the sensation cover, this makes sense. The sensation cover is metal and plastic and they put a contact point on the metal of it too. If it is anything like what I deal with at my work, then they are just trying to provide the phone with a system wide consistent ground. Without grounding the back cover, it could induce or conduct a static charge and possibly shock or create interfere to the main board. When the ground has bad contact, we notice a lag in screen responsiveness, but other things may be happening that we don't notice.
Someone mentioned that the antennas are located near the camera, which is true for at least the WiFi antenna. You will see a drop in signal if you hold the phone near the camera. They also mentioned that the top area of the phone has metal readily available. I would suspect that the other antennas are there too.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
good to know!
I might remove the case then, don't want to shock the main board!!
Sent from my HTC Glacier using XDA
blackeye09 said:
good to know!
I might remove the case then, don't want to shock the main board!!
Sent from my HTC Glacier using XDA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Having a case in your phone will not be an issue. The grounding happens using a self-contained circuit. The back plate may just be used as part of that circuit. Additional static from being in your pocket will be grounded with or without a case on the phone.
Sent from my HTC Glacier using XDA
I have a unbranded UK HD2 that has a broken digitizer. I read that its easier to buy a screen and digitizer together but have also read that there are 2 types of digitizer connections. I have found a replacement screen on ebay from a UK seller. Does it matter what type of screen i get if the digitizer already on it? If it does, how do i know which one to get?
Any help much appreciated
Sent from my HTC Sensation Z710e using Tapatalk 2
If buying digi & LCD as 1 assembly then not important really.
If you decide to get just digi then check it first either physically when open or via SPL bootloader details (has to be SPL as HSPL does not show this info)
Not that hard to separate & rebond just digi but if have little experience probably best get built lcd/digi.
Amazing how many people crack LCD when remove rear housing. Just make sure you use plastic pry tool & use a thumb to press on battery label to help push chassis assembly forward, pry at either side of speaker grill & work down side a little AVOIDING volume switch area & do not push tools in deeply, lift top & right side first & they pop out easily & extra care will pay when rebuilding ...
+1
Mister B said:
If buying digi & LCD as 1 assembly then not important really.
If you decide to get just digi then check it first either physically when open or via SPL bootloader details (has to be SPL as HSPL does not show this info)
Not that hard to separate & rebond just digi but if have little experience probably best get built lcd/digi.
Amazing how many people crack LCD when remove rear housing. Just make sure you use plastic pry tool & use a thumb to press on battery label to help push chassis assembly forward, pry at either side of speaker grill & work down side a little AVOIDING volume switch area & do not push tools in deeply, lift top & right side first & they pop out easily & extra care will pay when rebuilding ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
An appropriate advice from a guy that knows what he's talking about, really!:highfive:
Yes thank you Mister B an excellent post. Will get the screen + digitizer and give it a go
Sent from my HTC Sensation Z710e using Tapatalk 2
Tartan Army said:
Yes thank you Mister B an excellent post. Will get the screen + digitizer and give it a go
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Using "Thanks" button would be more useful, don't you think?
Hey guys, after doing some research, I've found out that if the correct adhesive is not used ( a pain in the butt ) there can be digitizer issues.
I was sold a bad, completely unresponsive, digitizer, which I only found out after taking forever tear it down and put it back.
When the new replacement digitizer arrives, will I be able to test if input works without seating it into the phone front panel and without touching the LCD?
In other words can I just plug in the digitizer into the MB to test before assembly and be able to click on it solo after I turn on the phone?
Or does it have to seated, and also adhered properly?
You can plug it in and test it without glueing it in. Just be careful and hold it close to the phone without damaging the LCD. Touching the digitizer you will see the movement on the LCD screen.
Make sure it works before glueing it down over the LCD.
Sent from my HTC Glacier (MT4G) using xda app-developers app