Kindle fire Insecure by Default (fix?) - Kindle Fire General

This obviously isn't a problem for people who just use their fire for books, movies and music.
Those of us who for example would like to hook the device into a corporate email service (for example) would probably be turned off by the fact anyone with a USB cable can crack this puppy right open (using adb + zergRush or SuperOneClick).
The screen password obviously isn't enough on its own.
The fix for this is of course to disable adb on the device which makes your USB port a safe way to charge and load files versus a giant security hole.
Of course, its a PITA to turn adb on and off manually. There's no development menu to do so on the kindle fire like on most android devices. This leaves you with editing settings.db.
Anyone know of a simple app to turn adb on and off? A widget would work, or other tool.
EDIT:
Answered my own question, but I'm sure you'd all like the tip.
Install this as a system app:
HTTP code.google.com / p / secure-settings-widget
ADBWidget-0.2-alpha.apk

Related

Which cloud/sync app? (Nook battery/wakelocks)

Been a long time since I posted here.
I don't use my Nook as much as I I could or I think I should. I think the main reason is that I haven't been using apps which sync across devices for fear of ruining the very good battery life.
What are some good apps which integrate with say Chrome? What things have you found useful? Do you toggle WiFi on and off? If so do you then need to hit sync or does that partial wakelock reciever for detecting that WiFi is on and off do that for you? Or will this app keep trying to sync even when there is no wifi?
I think if I start using something like ReaditLater again (tap button in chrome, sync and then read on Nook)... I'll probably use it more.
Also, pulling apps off Google Play and installing the apk was better for battery but I can't get the apk extractor websites to work anymore. Did anyone have a workaround for that?
One more thing, I have been using the latest Cyanogenmod and I notice it comes with PrivacyGuard. Now, the interersting thing about that is that PrivacyGuard now has options to block autostart, keep device awake and wake up device. So this could be useful to put in a ROM, or something like it, bearing in mind the nice battery life we get. Or, maybe have 2 modes - one with everything disabled for hikes, and another for use at home where a charger is handy and the auto sync is more useful.
Apologies, didn't search well enough:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1898358
(adbsync)
Yeah, Renate NST's adbsync program is definitely going to be your best (and really only) option that fits your description.
Thinking about it, there's probably more efficient ways to do it.
For example, Evernote, Unified Remote Full, Wiki Encyclopedia Offline. I don't think Pocket (formerly ReaditLater works anymore very unfortunately... that was my favorite thing)
But of course, getting these things working on the older Android now could be difficult. How do I get the apks from play these days now the various website extractors don't work?
And ways to automate adbsync. For example, have it as a schedule in the background along with adb connect to your Nook. But remember to give the Nook a static IP on the WiFi by assigning via MAC on the router.
If you save pages as .pdf and automate the sync that's good but browsing pages as pdf isn't great.
edit to avoid bump:
You can use it as a 2nd monitor.
Windows:
http://superuser.com/questions/62051/is-there-a-way-to-fake-a-dual-second-monitor
(then use VNC to access. My thread has a howto for install) (MaxiVista probably works to if you're prepared to pay or steal)
Also possible on other platforms. The key phrase to use when searching is "Extend desktop"
I don't know why I didn't think of this before but you can access Evernote through the web interface. Probably similar for OneNote too.
A browser I heard is good, possible better than Opera now is NakedBrowser and the apk is available from the authors website.
I found a way to get the apk is to find an old phone to install too and then use an apk extractor app. A desktop extractor would still be better
Edit again;
I'm still not using it like I feel I should. I think this is because it's just not as Easy to pick up and read. The problem with advanced is that I have to wake up the nook, turn on WiFi and then hit my sync script on the desktop. Because of this I only use it if I have a lot to read, like a full book. I envisioned using it for just reading lengthier forum posts and white papers.
A start I think is to disable the screen saver.
Next will be to put enabling WiFi and keep awake while charging, and then disable after a period if the user fails to cancel and it's unplugged.
If you know how to do either of these things please let me know.
edit avoid bump:
I can't install the tasker apk unfortunately... and they're not giving out licenses anymore without Play. Is there an similar alternative is now my search..
Would be really good to enable and disable adb wireless and wifi when plugged in.
Actually there's a fix for tasker asking for a .jar. So it should be possible tonautomate connecting to WiFi and adb WiFi. Just a matter of getting tasker license or something else. AutomateIT won't run.
jago25_98 said:
I'm still not using it like I feel I should. I think this is because it's just not as Easy to pick up and read. The problem with advanced is that I have to wake up the nook, turn on WiFi and then hit my sync script on the desktop. Because of this I only use it if I have a lot to read, like a full book. I envisioned using it for just reading lengthier forum posts and white papers.
A start I think is to disable the screen saver.
Next will be to put enabling WiFi and keep awake while charging, and then disable after a period if the user fails to cancel and it's unplugged.
If you know how to do either of these things please let me know.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My Nook is currently out of commission, but I know at one point I had Pocket running (while it was still called ReadItLater), so there might be an old apk floating around that works. Alternatively, you can setup Wallabag, which is the same thing but run on your own server. Between that and a feed reader, I had thousands of articles to pick from whenever I picked up my Nook. It was quite a delight.
Also, there are a couple of wifi saving tools that can be found in F-Droid. If I recall, I used one called Battery Fu to have my Nook connect, force a sync, then disconnect once every few hours. It worked quite well.
thanks FbYAx
I looked up wallabag but when I try to install every version back to 1.6 I get the message 'older SDK'. I guess you had an older version... but I don't know how far back i have to go.
i will have to start archiving and hosting apks that work
edit to try to be a bit more helpful for people who might be trying to do this same:
get android version (mine is 2.1. i think that is normal (kitkat)):
Code:
adb shell getprop ro.build.version.release
change sdk apk version to see if it was developed without using newer sdk stuff (force it):
http://stackoverflow.com/questions/...on-and-targetsdkversion-specified-both-in-and

Amazons Fire TV (5.0.5) from a usability perspective

With my AFTV2 currently broken down about one day after I set it up - I mentally went through some of the steps I'm likely to repeat very soon and - also seeing that some people in here still are struggling with some aspects of it, that I already learned long ago how to cope with - I thought I share some of my reflections.
This is by the way not meant to be a usability review - or tips guide of Amazons own interface - which I find abysmal for the most part. Let them struggle on their own - and also, for some reason there already are in depth "reviews" of it on aftvnews (which I came to slowly accept and even somewhat like.. ) - which mostly highlight aspects of it deemed positive. Bravo and lull Amazon into false confidence I say...
So here we go.
1. Best launcher (rooted or not) still is Firestarter. Basically because of its deep integration to app settings - which allows you to stop apps, delete their data or uninstall them in the fastest way possible. You'll need it more often than you think and its great that its there.
Change icon PPI to 144 and for your own sake - change the background to something more uplifting and also enable the text background bubbles so you get a higher text contrast, regardless of the BG image you chose.
2. Fire OS v5 and its limitation to one adb connection only isnt the enormous setback I thought it would be. Firestarter literally changes its default automatically within the first 3 seconds of it not being able to access adb - and the one click>double click combo to launch it from anywhere is good enough. Also in OS 5 there are no screen transitions, so switching to Firestarter feels more "instant".
Not having Firestarter use adb frees up you using adb from different devices. Once you are connected via adb from a PC f.e. you can also open different shells, or transfer a file and simultaneously perform another action in the shell - so thats a non issue. Also I rewrote all the scripts I use to cleanly exit adb with adb disconnect - and ultimately that works fine.
Through the two days of setting the Fire TV up and testing use cases I got a "cant connect via adb" error (because there already was another process using it) only twice - which in return can be promptly fixed by toggling adb on and off - and again - Firestarter provides a shortcut to that menu as well - so its fast, and if you use adb disconnect as intended, you dont need it very often.
3. Drop adbFire or equivalent "Helper Tools" as fast as possible - because they prevent you from learning even the simplest command line instruction, that will speed up your life in the long term. Seriously - just do it.
Also, explore the file structure of Kodi and the Fire TV (as in "look at it", try to make sense of it - not as in "I wander what happens if I delete this..."), so you can actually learn how they work. This again brings me back to the do not use adbFire or other "prepackaged" (and poorly laid out and documented) tools.
4. If you transfer single files - and most of them you usually want to drop to /sdcard/ first, you use the adb push command, because it simply turns out to be the fastest way to move stuff - at least if your OS allows you to drop a file onto the command line window to autopopulate the filepath.
If you want to transfer files and folders not directly located in /sdcard/ - either use something more GUI orientated - like AAFM ( https://github.com/sole/aafm ) (Windows cant use it to its fullest extent in its current state (on Windows you can use Total Commander (Windows Version - this time it will cost you something ) - which also has an adb plugin available) and or - zip the folder you want to transfer locally, then push it to /sdcard/ and then use Total Commander to unzip it into its desired location on the Fire TV.
Transferring .zip files wirelessly ultimately almost always turns out to be faster than transferring the individual files themselves. That also goes for zipping files on the AFTV using Total Commander, and then backing them up to a PC.
5. Use Total Commander. No seriously, download it from the Amazon App Store today. I know how popular ES File Explorer became from being the only free filemanager left, that was popular back in the day - but its approach to be iconographic to a fault and hiding away features in sub menus hurts its usability on any device where you try to perform actions with a remote. TC is simply better suited for the usecase.
TC also can write to the sdcard1 partition in Android 5 - either using root, or using a scripted workaround - so you generally dont have the "its not writable" issue. Also adb shell with su can write to it as well - so also use that if you need to.
You can also install Total Commanders LAN plugin ( http://www.ghisler.com/androidplugins/ ) and thereby access network shares.
6. There even is a usecase for the Amazon Voice button - because from Kodi - you can use it to launch Total Commander with just three button presses (say: "Total Commander") - which is faster than it was before - and you can also exit back to Kodi with only a few presses of the back button. Other than for this, the voice button of course is entirely useless - as we generally arent especially interested in how bad the Amazon Store is stocked (at least over here in europe... ).
7. Dont use the RC3 of Kodi 16 (Jarvis) right now. With Kodi 14.2 and 15.2 you can pause a video, drop back to Amazons launcher, then into Firestarter - then launch another app, then leave it and return to Kodi - with the video (usually - if you have enough free memory) still being in the paused state. In RC3 for Kodi 16, the video auto stops as soon as you switch away from Kodi - which in the long run causes much frustration and the need for additional button presses. Just remember to manually stop a video if you dont plan on returning to it anytime soon so Kodis bookmark your current position feature triggers.
8. If you want to install a Kodi repo - its much faster to download it as a .zip file and then adb push it to /sdcard/ where Kodi can find and install it - than to "start typing" anything in Kodi itself.
At some point - create a shell script for your pc that allows adb to connect to your Fire TVs IP address by just typing adb.sh (for example) - so you dont have to type in your Fire TVs ip address each time you want to connect to it.
9. If you dont already have a NAS -get an old router with an USB port that runs dd-wrt and has NTFS support (= all newer firmwares with at least 16mb package size should have it integrated - if you use ddwrt, even some with a 8mb package size). You get a very low power NAS that also can mirror as an FTP server (faster file transfers), and can become a torrent box in case you use that stuff. The negative only is - that with 4.5-6MB/s transferspeeds tops (WLAN, but actually limited by the individual routers CPU - they are low powered, remember) compressed 1080p is the most you can wish for - out of a 10-30 USD device. Preferably run it as a stand alone and not as your main router (reboots can be performed without bringing down your whole network, processor load, ...).
edit:
10. Kodi runs a little faster on the AFTV2 than on the Fire TV Sticks - which turns out to cut out just the right amounts of seconds on Kodi plugins with an "lets aggregate everything" approach.
You failed to mention what is "broken down" lol
You did quite abit of modding there so what "broke" it.
Playing a GPU intensive 3D game and then watching a video.
No, really.
The part you describe as "modding" went perfectly well - and what I describe above is mostly normal Android use for anyone not depending on "prefab click button to do thingy" stuff. Thats actually what I want this community to explore more - because at some point it literally becomes pointless - watching another in depth video analysis of Amazon taking out a row of items from their spreadsheet inspired Smart TV interface..
Amazon should have done more chip testing before they let their devices out of their factories. Or they should have done more testing regarding the 5.0.5 update. Slowly rolling out firmware updates in case you missed something important - is no substitute for proper testing...
All banter aside - the rooting process doesnt modify the kernel of the device, and on mine the GPU seems to have run into problems. From "working perfectly fine" to "full brick" (slightly different colors of black screens flashing, then settling on a full black screen) after playing a game and then watching a video.
AFTV - quality you can trust in.
Also - somehow its curious - when you buy a laptop these days - where you have root rights from the start, most complaining centers around stuff the manufacturer has messed up in producing the device and the software. But if you - as a manufacturer - take away the actual rights (permissions) from people - the discussion suddenly shifts to "OMG what have you done to the device".
But people usually dont get suddenly less educated or less cautious, once you take certain rights away from them - so the only explanation I have come up with is, that actually taking away permissions and property rights from people for some reason surfaces more voices that now very publicly campaign for this being a much more desirable state in the first place.
On a related note - If I had bricked my device during the rooting process, or while the TWRP custom recovery was installed - or by modifying system files (which now that TWRP runs on the Fire TV is easier to fix then ever), my first action would have been to give a full report of what happened (which I have actually done in a separate thread, in this case as well), so potential flaws or stumbling blocks in the rooting method could have been sussed out.
Mine has had 0 issues.. then again i rooted mine and have twrp, xposed, adaway, v4a, play store, firestarter, busybox, kodi, plex leanback youtube, debloated (removed most Amazecrap) etc.
Does more than I expected and then some.. even better than Nexus Player imo
Good - then we only agree that it isnt the rooting process.
And with TWRP you now have the means to entirely wipe and factory reset the device - so even if you for some reason had messed up the entire system partition (system files) - you still have a fallback, in fact a much better one than on a stock Fire TV, to "start over".
But that sadly doesnt fix hardware issues. Believe me, I tried. And documented it along the way. Look for it in another thread.
edit: Also this isnt me taking a jab at the device itself. I dont agree with Amazons product policies (= politics), but I was perfectly happy with my AFTV 2 as well. For as long as it worked..
In fact my fall back was to go back to the Fire TV Stick I had still laying around and I had the same functionality back (including all this "modding" you see in the OP ) within around 15 seconds (I missed the power socket in the wall twice... ).
harlekinrains said:
Good - then we only agree that it isnt the rooting process.
And with TWRP you now have the means to entirely wipe and factory reset the device - so even if you for some reason had messed up the entire system partition (system files) - you still have a fallback, in fact a much better one than on a stock Fire TV, to "start over".
But that sadly doesnt fix hardware issues. Believe me, I tried. And documented it along the way. Look for it in another thread.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yea.. no device is perfect lol.. but the fact it has a gpu processor (when it works) is great! probably one of the cheaper 4k capable boxes available..
For the price, its a great option with root/recovery for what it does do and to achieve what its capable of.. theres bound to be a few bad devices and surely pushed to the max it can die
Sure.
Love the device. Dont love Amazons policies and product politics. Will use any chance to heckle them, that comes my way.
Thats me in a nutshell.
If you like the product, but dont like the company, their Store UI, their Store, the way they managed their store (app removals) in the past, the content thats in their store, their "underground" store program (that puts price pressure on devs)... thats not only possible - but also valid.
I dont think of Amazon as "a package deal".
When I criticize certain aspects of their infrastructure, I dont say that others are bad.
And I also dont proclaim that there is a high failure rate with Fire TV 2s on the 5.0.5 firmware. For me its just a nuisance and another chance to throw some banter..
But look - there is also something good, that came from it - I wrote an entire post about usability and how to best interact with the Fire TV on 5.0.5.
Because people just demanding updates (and root) - isnt enough..
yea.. i can write a banter on any device lol..
chromecast is great but cant say i like it..
the stick is worse..
nexus player is decent but also limited and if you install a full rom its essentially no longer a nexus player etc.
Deleted
Just one little additional tidbit -
Amazon still prevents the Fire TV 2 from using SD Cards formated with exFat. They literally write it out of their firmwares. Their Fire tablets of course support it - because, well its fun to play with your customer, and prevent usecases you see unfit for your current business model.
If you by any chance have purchased a 64GB Micro SD - Windows doesnt allow you to format it in Fat 32 - but this can be circumvented, by following this tutorial:
https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/installation/sdxc_formatting.md
Of course the 4GB filesize limit still holds up.
edit: Also tested Kodi 15.2 by now - which shows the same pause state/app switching behavior as 14.2. I've edited the OP to reflect that.
harlekinrains said:
Just one little additional tidbit -
Amazon still prevents the Fire TV 2 from using SD Cards formated with exFat. They literally write it out of their firmwares. Their Fire tablets of course support it - because, well its fun to play with your customer, and prevent usecases you see unfit for your current business model.
If you by any chance have purchased a 64GB Micro SD - Windows doesnt allow you to format it in Fat 32 - but this can be circumvented, by following this tutorial:
https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/installation/sdxc_formatting.md
Of course the 4GB filesize limit still holds up.
edit: Also tested Kodi 15.2 by now - which shows the same pause state/app switching behavior as 14.2. I've edited the OP to reflect that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
kodi installs repos fine for me on 15.2.. of course i dont use the remote I use the fire tv app and then the keyboard so it doesnt take forever
It does on all versions.
Installing repos by downloading their .zip files first, then pushing them to /sdcard/ using -
adb push /path/to/zipfile.zip /sdcard/
is just faster - because you dont have to type something you see on one screen, letter by letter - into an app on another screen. You download the file, you open a command line window, type adb push , then drag/drop the downloaded file onto the command line window to get its filepath into it - then finish typing /sdcard/ and press enter. In Kodi you then just use the "install from zip file" option.
You dont switch devices, you dont switch keyboards, you dont have to look at two screens, you dont have to copy a url. But using a BT keyboard probably in the end isnt that much slower...
Its just good practice to not see the Fire TV (stick) as a device that has to be managed on its own. It is a always on, connected Android device. You can look at its contents, you can move files from and to it, you can give it instructions...
adb and adb shell
make it open enough.
Two more usability tips.
1. If you are rooted, sideload WiFi ADB ( https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.ttxapps.wifiadb ) - its just a quicker way of disabling and reenabling ADB - when you cant connect (since 5.0.5 the Fire TV only allows one ADB connection at a time) from your PC.
I also tried to replace adbd (the adb daemon file on the FIre TV) - but so far have only found one from API level 21 (and Fire TV 5.0.5 needs 22 (as it is based on Android 5.1)) - that one didnt work at all. Even if replacing it with the exact API 22 version would work, this doesnt necessarily mean that the "one adb connection limit" is gone - but it is something I though would be worth giving a try.
2. If you have WiFi connection issues on a Fire TV 2 - especially with the Fire TV repeatedly failing to connect, It turns out that Amazons Wifi Implementation REALLY, REALLY wants you to have WMM enabled on your router. If you don't the connection tends to drop every day and the Fire TV then has problems to reconnect. With WMM enabled I now run three days without the slightest issue - and I also have changed WiFi networks within seconds, and not as previously - it taking about 10 minutes until thats successful. Before I came by this little quirk of the FIre TV , switching bands - even temporarily on 2.4 GHz would kickstart the Fire TV reconnecting to the same AP, just fyi.
Also when you are on the 5 GHz band, the Fire TV has a "drop off" if you are on any band higher than the first few (five or six), the Fire TV has problems even "seeing" the network. Also the last channel it still "sees" it has problems connecting to - so drop even one below that if you want it running on 5 GHz.
This quirk is more widely reported than the first one, but just as annoying.
Also just a big "really?!" into Amazons direction for messing up the Wifi implementation on the device this badly. I'm sure MediaTeks proprietary drivers play a part in this, as might the Fire TV 2 always running its own ad hoc WiFi network in the background - but still Amazon is selling that stuff.
I could test it with two different routers - on largely uncongested bands in both the 2.4 and 5 GHz space - and I have half a dozen other devices that never displayed any problems with the way I had my network set up in the past - but for the Fire TV 2 I had to reconfigure my routers just so it would stop dropping out - or start finding the respective network in the first place.

[How To] Change screensaver on Fire TV (non-root): Apple, Chromecast, etc.

Updates below
After a while of screwing around trying to get the Apple TV screensaver on the Fire TV, I've finally managed to figure it out, and thought I should post a guide. This one's for the Apple TV Screensaver, but any daydream screensaver should work too.
1. Sideload your screensaver APK to the Fire TV, in this case it's Aerial Dream. Install it on another device & extract the APK, or use google search 'your screensaver apk' for a mirror. You'll likely have to put it on your other device to follow the next steps if using something else, however.
2. Connect to your Fire TV via ADB and open a shell:
Code:
$ adb shell
[email protected]:/ $
3. Use the following command to set the new screensaver:
Code:
[email protected]:/ $ settings put secure screensaver_components com.codingbuffalo.aerialdream/com.codingbuffalo.aerialdream.AerialDream
[email protected]:/ $
4. (optional) Check to see if you've set it up:
Code:
[email protected]:/ $ settings get secure screensaver_components
settings get secure screensaver_components
com.codingbuffalo.aerialdream/com.codingbuffalo.aerialdream.AerialDream
[email protected]:/ $
All done. Now you can enjoy a different screensaver on your Fire TV!
5. (optional) To go back to Amazon's original screensaver (bet you won't after you see the Apple TV one, use the following command:
Code:
[email protected]:/ $ settings put secure screensaver_components com.amazon.bueller.photos/.daydream.ScreenSaverService
[email protected]:/ $
Notes:
For other screensavers, set them up on your other device by going to Settings - Display - Daydream - Select your screensaver, then use the command from step 4 to get the proper activity name to use, usually in the format com.packagename/something.ActivityName
The Apple Screensaver saves large videos, so you should have extra disk space and lots of data transfer available.
The first time Aerial Dream starts, it has to download some of the screensaver media, which usually takes a few minutes on a decent network. Let it sit on the loading screen and be patient.
Hey, it doesn't look like much, but it took me quite a while to figure this out. Hope it helps someone out there who wants to customize their Fire TV a little more.
If anyone knows of any other cool daydream screensavers, please post 'em here.
Update August 1st
I've finally got the Chromecast screensaver (home page?) working on an FTV1. I had to update Website Daydream with the open pull requests; the author is MIA unfortunately. I have attached my debug build of an un-signed APK to this post you can use.
Install it the same way as the Apple screensaver above. The daydream package name / service name is:
uk.co.liamnewmarch.daydream/uk.co.liamnewmarch.daydream.WebsiteDaydreamService
You'll also need Activity Launcher to set it up.
Go into Activity Launcher - All activities - Website Daydream - Settings. Set address to https://clients3.google.com/cast/chromecast/home, Display - Full Screen, Overview mode, and Wide view port all checked, leave the rest as defaults.
Although I've suggested using the Chromecast home screen, you can of course use any web site you wish. As always, if you find something cool, post it below.
JeniferBaron said:
So what does the screensaver look like?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You may preview the screensaver media here .
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
Ariel Dream 2.7GB moved to ext. SDCARD
I HAD 3.24GB free then followed this Guide to get the very cool Ariel Dreams running as my screensaver instead of the stock Amazon(which I like a lot too - just seen it all).
Next thing I know Kodi is acting as it does for me when I get low on storage.
Sure enough I had 1.14GB free on the tiny 5GB FTV internal storage.
I thought I had to abandon Ariel Dream - nice to look at but to big.
The I found a old AFTVNews article on "How to move and run Amazon Fire TV apps from an External USB Storage Drive"
Did not need the Stickmount mentioned as I already had an SDCard (external) installed. (old article)
Just followed the FolderMount portion to move it to sdcard1 (even the com.codingbuffalo.aerialdream directory was already over there just empty) by pairing it.
Back to 3.24GB free and Ariel Dream running with it's HUGE videos.
Just thought I would mention how I solved this space delima this guide(very helpful) presented.
Not installing for me
Tried installing on both gen 1 and gen 2. No go. Running 5.05 with device updates turned off. App installs but 1) does not appear in app list under “Manage installed apps” and 2) Icon is listed on home screen but fails to open. Message says app is not downloaded from Amazon. Perplexed.
VidKid said:
Tried installing on both gen 1 and gen 2. No go. Running 5.05 with device updates turned off. App installs but 1) does not appear in app list under “Manage installed apps” and 2) Icon is listed on home screen but fails to open. Message says app is not downloaded from Amazon. Perplexed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This isn't a normal app, it's a daydream screensaver. There is no UI, there is (currently) no options, and the only way to get it to do anything is by following the guide in the OP.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
Re:Not installing for me
VidKid said:
Tried installing on both gen 1 and gen 2. No go. Running 5.05 with device updates turned off. App installs but 1) does not appear in app list under “Manage installed apps” and 2) Icon is listed on home screen but fails to open. Message says app is not downloaded from Amazon. Perplexed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same thing for me right after install - But then I rebooted.
App is now GONE from the home screen.
Just worked after inactivity (whatever you have it set to).
Hi, i installed this on my fire TV Gen 2, non-rooted. and the screensaver media seems to have taken a lot of space on the internal drive. is there anyway to reclaim the space the screensaver has taken up? is there a way for me to move the default cache or app over to the SDcard?
chakl said:
Hi, i installed this on my fire TV Gen 2, non-rooted. and the screensaver media seems to have taken a lot of space on the internal drive. is there anyway to reclaim the space the screensaver has taken up? is there a way for me to move the default cache or app over to the SDcard?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not without root access. If/when you decide to root, see post #4 with the article How to move and run Amazon Fire TV apps from an External USB Storage Drive.
xenyz said:
Not without root access. If/when you decide to root, see post #4 with the article How to move and run Amazon Fire TV apps from an External USB Storage Drive.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, it seems im late to the party my fire tv 2nd gen is on version 5.2.1.0 and it seems to not be rootable.
if i go back to stock screensaver i still dont free up the space aerial dream took up. it seems the only thing to do from here to reclaim would be to factory reset?
chakl said:
Hi, it seems im late to the party my fire tv 2nd gen is on version 5.2.1.0 and it seems to not be rootable.
if i go back to stock screensaver i still dont free up the space aerial dream took up. it seems the only thing to do from here to reclaim would be to factory reset?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I believe the latest FireOS has a root exploit you can use to install TWRP/pre-rooted 5.0.5.1 with King Root. Check your device's thread here on XDA; I'm not familiar with FTV2 at all.
And to erase the screensaver's cache, you can either uninstall Aerial Dream, or delete /sdcard/Android/data/com.codingbuffalo.aerialdream
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
Updated OP with info on how to get the Chromecast screensaver on your Fire TV.
How do i get my google photos on the firetv screensaver?
Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
asafegous said:
How do i get my google photos on the firetv screensaver?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try sideloading Google Photos app. It appears as a daydream screensaver on my N4, but I haven't used it before.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
xenyz said:
Try sideloading Google Photos app. It appears as a daydream screensaver on my N4, but I haven't used it before.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Does this seem right:
com.google.android.apps.photos/
com.google.android.apps.photos.daydream.PhotoDreamService
Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
asafegous said:
What service an i accessing from Photos, daydream?
I cant decompile apk right now. Im mobile.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm guessing it's com.google.android.apps.photos.daydream.PhotosDreamService
You may need to use Activity Launcher to set it up too.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
xenyz said:
I'm guessing it's com.google.android.apps.photos.daydream.PhotosDreamService
You may need to use Activity Launcher to set it up too.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On the activity launcher, what url should i put down for all my pictures in all my albums?
Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
xenyz said:
Updates below
After a while of screwing around trying to get the Apple TV screensaver on the Fire TV, I've finally managed to figure it out, and thought I should post a guide. This one's for the Apple TV Screensaver, but any daydream screensaver should work too.
1. Sideload your screensaver APK to the Fire TV, in this case it's Aerial Dream. Install it on another device & extract the APK, or use google search 'your screensaver apk' for a mirror. You'll likely have to put it on your other device to follow the next steps if using something else, however.
2. Connect to your Fire TV via ADB and open a shell:
Code:
$ adb shell
[email protected]:/ $
3. Use the following command to set the new screensaver:
Code:
[email protected]:/ $ settings put secure screensaver_components com.codingbuffalo.aerialdream/com.codingbuffalo.aerialdream.AerialDream
[email protected]:/ $
4. (optional) Check to see if you've set it up:
Code:
[email protected]:/ $ settings get secure screensaver_components
settings get secure screensaver_components
com.codingbuffalo.aerialdream/com.codingbuffalo.aerialdream.AerialDream
[email protected]:/ $
All done. Now you can enjoy a different screensaver on your Fire TV!
5. (optional) To go back to Amazon's original screensaver (bet you won't after you see the Apple TV one, use the following command:
Code:
[email protected]:/ $ settings put secure screensaver_components com.amazon.bueller.photos/.daydream.ScreenSaverService
[email protected]:/ $
Notes:
For other screensavers, set them up on your other device by going to Settings - Display - Daydream - Select your screensaver, then use the command from step 4 to get the proper activity name to use, usually in the format com.packagename/something.ActivityName
The Apple Screensaver saves large videos, so you should have extra disk space and lots of data transfer available.
The first time Aerial Dream starts, it has to download some of the screensaver media, which usually takes a few minutes on a decent network. Let it sit on the loading screen and be patient.
Hey, it doesn't look like much, but it took me quite a while to figure this out. Hope it helps someone out there who wants to customize their Fire TV a little more.
If anyone knows of any other cool daydream screensavers, please post 'em here.
Update August 1st
I've finally got the Chromecast screensaver (home page?) working on an FTV1. I had to update Website Daydream with the open pull requests; the author is MIA unfortunately. I have attached my debug build of an un-signed APK to this post you can use.
Install it the same way as the Apple screensaver above. The daydream package name / service name is:
uk.co.liamnewmarch.daydream/uk.co.liamnewmarch.daydream.WebsiteDaydreamService
You'll also need Activity Launcher to set it up.
Go into Activity Launcher - All activities - Website Daydream - Settings. Set address to https://clients3.google.com/cast/chromecast/home, Display - Full Screen, Overview mode, and Wide view port all checked, leave the rest as defaults.
Although I've suggested using the Chromecast home screen, you can of course use any web site you wish. As always, if you find something cool, post it below.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just wanted to thank you again for this. The Apple one worked and I used it for months. Switched back to the Amazon Collection. But just now am using the Chromecast. Works great. Can I install the Chromecast App on my FTV to change the speed the images are displayed ? Too slow for my tastes(Apple was to slow too BTW).
However, with 3 different screensavers I am pretty happy. I set the time to forever so they always are running.
asafegous said:
On the activity launcher, what url should i put down for all my pictures in all my albums?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll try setting up Google Photos on my Fire stick and see if I can get it working.
Bevnrick said:
Can I install the Chromecast App on my FTV to change the speed the images are displayed ? Too slow for my tastes(Apple was to slow too BTW).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Doubtful, but give it a try and see.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
xenyz said:
I'll try setting up Google Photos on my Fire stick and see if I can get it working.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://kindlefireforkid.com/how-to-setup-a-google-account-on-amazon-fire-tablet/
Found this. Not sure if it'll play on our device or even if it is needed. Id like to help try but i wont be seeing my fire stick for another week or so.
Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
I need root to 5.2.1.1 to gain google framework. Fat chance i get this working
Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

[Guide] Hulu Live TV on Fire TV without Root

So I know that Hulu will be releasing a new version of their app for the Fire TV that supports live TV (looks like the private beta for it may be starting today), but I've been wanting to watch live shows on the television that I have my Fire TV (2nd gen) hooked up to. Originally, I was hoping that it would be as easy as hooking up a wireless mouse and then side loading the Hulu app from my phone. I had done this already with my Nexus Player using an OTG cable and a Logitech wireless mouse. After I side loaded the Hulu 3.2.0.240243 apk, it loaded fine and I signed into my account, but unfortunately, after about 5-10 second I received an error that my location could not be determined. After some searching, I realized this is because the Fire TV doesn't have Google Play Services and therefore location services cannot be detected by apps such as Hulu.
Assumptions:
Download the apps below to your phone to then transfer them to your Fire TV. If you want to download them directly to the Fire TV or a computer, that will work as well but you'll need to copy them over to your Fire TV on your own since my instructions only cover Phone to Fire TV using ES File Explorer and having it open on both while they are connected to the same network.
Some basic ADB commands are going to be necessary, I'll give the step by step, but you'll need to be familiar with ADB over WiFi to connect to your Fire TV with the correct IP address.
Although the risk of damaging/bricking your Fire TV should be nearly impossible based on the instructions below, I am not responsible for any issues that you may encounter. Please proceed at your own risk.
Here are the steps that I took to get everything working and I assume this would probably work for other apps that Google location services to work as well.
Go into the Settings -> Device -> Developer Options and enable both ADB Debugging and Installing from Unknown Sources
Download the following 5 files (to your phone if you want to follow my instructions below, but you could do them to your computer or direct to the Fire TV if you'd prefer), I got them all from ApkMirror - Note the Google apps are all for Android version 5.1 since Fire OS 5.2.4.1 is on my Fire TV.
com.google.android.gsf.login_5.1-1743759-22_minAPI21(nodpi)
com.google.android.gsf_5.1-1743759-22_minAPI22(nodpi)
com.google.android.gms_11.0.56_(238-156935310)-11056238_minAPI21(armeabi-v7a)(480dpi)
com.android.vending_7.8.74.P-all_0_FP_157113528-80787400_minAPI14(armeabi-v7a)(240,320,480dpi)
com.hulu.plus_3.2.0.230243-230243_minAPI21(armeabi,armeabi-v7a,x86)(nodpi)
Download ES File Explorer from the Amazon app store on your Fire TV.
I then used ES File Explorer on both my Fire TV and my phone to transfer those 5 files from my phone to the Fire TV. I found this to be a lot easier than trying to download the files directly onto the Fire TV itself.
Next I installed the 5 files through ES File Explorer in the order they are listed above. The order probably doesn't matter, but I didn't test them in another order.
(Maybe Optional?) I long pressed the home button and then went to my apps and tried to open the Play Store. After 20 seconds or so, it timed out and returned to the home screen. I tried opening it again and after another long delay, I received a message that the version wasn't compatible with my device. I just clicked ok to exit out of it and then left it alone.
Download Fake GPS (available in the play store, but since it won't open on the Fire TV, google search for com.fakegps.mock version 3.610). I downloaded it from ApkHere to my phone.
Again, I used ES File Explorer to transfer the apk from my phone to the Fire TV.
Install the Fake GPS apk file through ES File Explorer.
On your computer, open a command prompt window and type the following lines to enable mock locations on your Fire TV.
adb connect <Fire TV IP Address>
adb shell
settings get secure mock_location <-- verify that the response to this is 0 which will indicate that mock location services are currently turned off
settings put secure mock_location 1
settings get secure mock_location <-- verify that the response to this is now 1 which will indicate that mock location services are turned on
You can now close that command prompt and then launch the Fake GPS app on the Fire TV.
Using my wireless mouse, I clicked on the search button and entered my local zip code. Once the mapped zoomed and and I adjusted it a little bit, I then clicked the button to activate the fake GPS.
Open Hulu and enter your username and password. It should now detect the fake GPS location and load without issues.
Hopefully Hulu will release the Fire TV compatible apk soon, but in the mean time, if you are impatient like I am, this should get you up and running.
Great guide! I've been trying for awhile actually to get mock locations working on the firetv.

Any way of using NST as a wired (USB?) external monitor?

Hi.
Is there any way to use the NST (rooted) as an external monitor, instead of the original monitor? (not duplicate or extend the display, but rather - replace it)
I'd want to use it with a PC and/or android phone.
Thanks,
Tal
That's a good question.
Err, if you mean as a general screen for another device, I don't think that's too practical.
If you mean an independent, secondary status screen for another device, ok.
Do you want to push graphic bits to the NST? That's not particulary efficient.
Do you want to push data to an app that will format it?
Do you want to push HTML to it?
Do you want to push over ADB? The USB gadget exists already.
You could use port forwarding to talk to an app on the NST.
You could use shell commands, just don't use any Java things or you have the load of Zygoting.
You could use WiFi, either through ADB or just through sockets.
You could use a USB HID gadget.
This would be in some ways the most elegant.
It would allow your non-rooted Android master device (or Windows box) to automatically identify and start its application.
NST does not have configfs or sys.usb.config, so it's not as simple to write your own USB gadget.
Still, it should be possible.
Hmm, I'll have to look into this.
Thanks for the answer.
Basically, what I was looking for is some way to read things on my NST instead of my computer - mainly things that are on my Instapaper account. If it would be possible to do basic email and word-processing - even better.
I purchased the device, having read how easy it is to root and all, and only when I got it and started actually doing, I realized that there are hardly any apps that work on it anymore (if I could just run Instapaper, Google Docs\Sheets, Chrome, it would be the perfect thing for me). So now I'm trying to come up with alternative ways to get the device to do pretty much what I want it to do.
I'm also open to other suggestions for how to use the NST for these purposes.
Screenstream from the Google play appstore will stream screen images from an Android device to a web browser, works on my note 8 to my nook glowlight plus. With a mouse and keyboard you might get what you need.
LaDjA said:
Thanks for the answer.
Basically, what I was looking for is some way to read things on my NST instead of my computer - mainly things that are on my Instapaper account. If it would be possible to do basic email and word-processing - even better.
I purchased the device, having read how easy it is to root and all, and only when I got it and started actually doing, I realized that there are hardly any apps that work on it anymore (if I could just run Instapaper, Google Docs\Sheets, Chrome, it would be the perfect thing for me). So now I'm trying to come up with alternative ways to get the device to do pretty much what I want it to do.
I'm also open to other suggestions for how to use the NST for these purposes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey, I have a similar question and perhaps @Renate NST can help me here?
I'm using my NST as a Standalone monitor to display a PHP page with some information about our house. Temperature etc values that I get from a raspberry. The PHP reloads itself every 60 seconds.
My problem at first was, that the screensaver at one point started. I have solved this with @Renate NST answer from a couple years ago.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=29113425#post29113425
dowloading settings.db etc...
So the screensaver doesn't fire, BUT at one point, and I haven't quite figured out yet, at what specific time that is, the internal browser just can't get the webside anymore by itself and displays the error message that the webside is not available. If I reload this webside, by clicking on the nook, manually, everything works fine again for some period.
My guess is, that there is some timeout for the WIFI or the general internet connections or that the internal timeout for websides might be to short.
I have not yet found a setting in the settings.db that suggests, I could change this behaivor.
Anyone an idea? That would help me alot because for the the NST is the best information screen that I could think of.
thx
btw: I have tried to integrate a simulated mouseclick via JS into the webside, but that didn't help.
fsg4u said:
... that I get from a raspberry.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mmm, is it an RPi3 or RPi0W?
On the RPi, in /etc/network/interfaces
Code:
wireless-power off
(Which is really a stupid name, it means "automatic power management for WiFi".)
Renate NST said:
Mmm, is it an RPi3 or RPi0W?
On the RPi, in /etc/network/interfaces
Code:
wireless-power off
(Which is really a stupid name, it means "automatic power management for WiFi".)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey,
thx for the fast answer but I might have misscommunicated something.
The Rpi3 is my server and works like a charm, so I don't have to change anything there. If i connect with my phone or my laptop the display webside will just reload "forever" like it should.
But I want to use the NST with it's internal browser to display that webside continously during the day. So there must be something within the nook that is idling of the connections.
I thought it might be WIFI_SLEEP_POLICY_NEVER but I cannot find that value in the Nook settings.db.
btw. Can I safely remove the amazon appstore in the nook? I never use it and I cannot kill it with Relaunch
fsg4u said:
The Rpi3 is my server...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, in any case you could still do what I suggested.
The change to /etc/network/interfaces is deprecated on the latest Raspian.
To do a manual temporary change:
Code:
$ sudo iwconfig wlan0 power off
$ iwconfig wlan0
...
Power Management:off
fsg4u said:
btw. Can I safely remove the amazon appstore in the nook? I never use it and I cannot kill it with Relaunch
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes. I believe a long-press on the app in ReLaunch will offer "uninstall" as an option. I think.
Renate NST said:
Well, in any case you could still do what I suggested.
The change to /etc/network/interfaces is deprecated on the latest Raspian.
To do a manual temporary change:
Code:
$ sudo iwconfig wlan0 power off
$ iwconfig wlan0
...
Power Management:off
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey renate,
thx for the advise. But what would that accomplish to the complete seperate NST System. The RPi is always on and always hast the internet conncetion without any problems whatsoever.
What I need to know would be how to keep the internet connection in the NST alive.
for example: There is an always on, while plugged option. If I connection the NST to a power source the internet connection stays alive, but I want exately this option also, when it'S not plugged in.
thx for your help
@fsg4u I understand what you're saying.
I'm just saying that the RPi's with the built in WiFi had such squirrelly problems with WiFi that when they first came out I gave up and used a separate USB WiFi adapter.
Disabling power management is a good idea.
Are you sure that you're losing WiFi while the Nook remains awake?
Have you set the screen_off_timeout for a sufficiently large number of milliseconds?
Does pinging the Nook constantly stop it from disconnecting?
Renate NST said:
@fsg4u I understand what you're saying.
I'm just saying that the RPi's with the built in WiFi had such squirrelly problems with WiFi that when they first came out I gave up and used a separate USB WiFi adapter.
Disabling power management is a good idea.
Are you sure that you're losing WiFi while the Nook remains awake?
Have you set the screen_off_timeout for a sufficiently large number of milliseconds?
Does pinging the Nook constantly stop it from disconnecting?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey Renate,
The RPi is not even connected via WIFI but via LAN, because the WIFI Interface just isn't fast enough.
No, I'm not sure that the WiFi connection gets lost, but's it's defintely something in the Nook that looses the connection. The constant pinging Idea sounds like a good shot. I'll defintely try that out.
So I have not tried out the pinging idea but after deinstalling Amazon Market (which i don't need) the problem vanished. Now the nook stays on and connected till the battery dies. Perfect. I have no clue why the Amazon market has an influence here, but I don't really care so much. thx for your help.

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