[Q] Fried charging circuit? - Shift General

Just got a new "clever" multivoltage car charger, plugged in the Shift and now with either AC or DC external power ...
1. External power green LED not working.
2. No charging icon on the WM side, and no indication of charging on the PC side.
3. Shift won't power up with the battery removed and only external power.
However also ...
4. Battery doesn't discharge with external power on.
5. Once started the battery can be removed and the unit remains powered via external power.
So the Shift won't charge the battery, but the external power is there and preferentially powering the unit. Any chance there is a simple fix?

Sheepster said:
Just got a new "clever" multivoltage car charger, plugged in the Shift and now with either AC or DC external power ...
1. External power green LED not working.
2. No charging icon on the WM side, and no indication of charging on the PC side.
3. Shift won't power up with the battery removed and only external power.
However also ...
4. Battery doesn't discharge with external power on.
5. Once started the battery can be removed and the unit remains powered via external power.
So the Shift won't charge the battery, but the external power is there and preferentially powering the unit. Any chance there is a simple fix?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sounds like you may have spoilt the Power Charging IC in the motherboard. Have a look at the following thread particularly Post No. 6 by reb http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=410161
The guy appeared to know what he was talking about but unfortunately he posted once and vanished..... Tried contacting him when I fried mine (I suspect mine was the more serious Power Distribution IC) without success. Mine could not power up at all hence ended up getting a replacement motherboad....

Looks simple enough to get the motherboard out ... but which IC should I get checked?
Is there a board diagram somewhere?

Related

My shift cant recharge

so, here's the problem -
i got HTC sfift, as a gift, and it was used sometime. second time I recharged it - it fails.
as soon as i take out power cable - it goes dead. ok, maybe a second, but it shuts down.
when i load vista, and go in battery info - it says - 1% and charging. and it stays on 1% all the time.
i'm asuming it is faulty battery, but could it be something else ? maybe a power socket ? or maybe those small metal pins beneath the battery, that touch battery and the backside of the shift .. ?
anyone ?
it's the battery. Mine charges up to 50-60% and stays there and the max is slowly decreasing downward ...
My shift can't charge or power up off AC
Hi, I have 2 shifts, and one of them is being funny (and not the funny "ha ha" kind)
The Shift X9500 will not charge off of AC power.
I have done these tests & got these results:
- Battery in & AC plugged in = no charge light comes on & W7 says nothing about charging
- Battery out & AC in = no charge light & W7 says no battery (expected)
- Battery in & AC out = no charge light & W7 says not charging (expected)
I tested AC adapter on a Tekkeon external battery and it charges that external battery so the AC cord works.
A new test was done.
With battery out, and AC cord in, the unit will not turn on
With battery in (and some voltage on battery), and the AC cord in, the unit can turn on, and I can remove the battery (while still on) and the unit remains on, and the battery area says (No battery-AC Power)
So what would make the Shift not turn on with the AC cord in only?
And, what would make the AC cord not charge the battery?
I'm thinking it is related to a fuse/circut protector or something from the AC to the unit, but mostly, why can the Shift "Run on AC, but not turn on with AC only (i.e. requires a battery to turn on)
UPDATE:
I called HTC and the Shift is under warranty so they said to mail it in.
It seems that the issue is mostly eluding to the AC not charging the Battery is causing all the other issues...we will see!

Atom life only recharges when turned off

Hello,
my problem is strange.
When I turn off my Atom Life it can be charged (USB, External Power Supply).
Red indicator light on.
When turned on (in use) it does not charge. The charging symbol in the status line shows the unit is connected to external power, but the red indicator light is off, and power continuously goes down.
I already tried a hard reset, but that did not help.
Does anybody have an idea?
Sorry, I forgot to mention that everything with charging went fine earlier (until some weeks ago)
charging
same thing with my XDA ATom dude
I have ordered a new battery for mine at ebay (did not arrive yet).
Maybe it helps.
Otherwise ...
Ok, the battery came in and it does not change anything.
Still the same issue.
So I am gonna litter it...
bye bye
New info,
there seems to be a bad contact at the USB connector.
If I connect the USB cable and hold the plug in a specific angle, then the charging light (red led) turns on).
Brought the device to a friend of mine. He's good at electronics and tries to figure out and fix the usb connector.
wait and see
Siyan said:
New info,
there seems to be a bad contact at the USB connector.
If I connect the USB cable and hold the plug in a specific angle, then the charging light (red led) turns on).
Brought the device to a friend of mine. He's good at electronics and tries to figure out and fix the usb connector.
wait and see
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
any news for your problem ??
i'm having this problem too
i brought used one and seems the battery is almost dead and can't charge when device is ON
Thanks!
I got a used atom life and bought a new main battery for it. Charging via USB cable connected to my notebook is working fine. Using the (wall socket plugin) power supply with the same cable it behaves the same way you described it. It starts charging only when the device is turned On and back Off. In my opinion the power supply is the reason. Maybe it is to week ar has some sort of security switch build in, which is protecting it against to high power consumption.
In my case it was definitely not the charger. I tried several ones and they behaved all the same (the original one wrked for long time).
It is the device itself.
I had it sent to a friend who was able to open it and a have a look at it.
The USB plug itself was a bit loose. But soldering it again did not fix the problem.
There seems to be a micro break of a wire on the mainboard (which is multi layered). So no real chance to repair.
I replaced my device by a HTC Desire which was available in Germany very very cheaply (you don't want to know the price because it wuld be too frustrating).
So goodbye Atom Life.

[Q] Nook Simple Touch - DOA Wont charge/turn on

Got a new nook simple touch- charged in for 24 hours - will not power up- has the same screen all the time "fully charge before first use".
Tried 4 different charges, cables and different PC's. Contacted Barnes & Noble support - talked me through all various software resets pressing buttons - nothing worked - then told me take it back to store. I cannot return the thing as live outside uk.
I have tried removing the battery by taking the thing apart , leaving battery disconnected for a few hours - reconnecting it but nothing works.
The LED light is always green when plugged into charger, from what i gather it should be orange when charging?
The battery also does not seem to be heating up when charging, i have touched it a few times to test its stone cold
Nothing happens when connected to PC either.
Does anyone know any reset procedure that i can try please as i am getting to the stage of throwing this thing into the bin?
it may just be a bad unit
If you have a voltmeter, see if you can measure a voltage across the red and black leads out of the battery.
The Nook will not boot up without a battery (on the USB obviously).
I haven't looked into whether it's a safety on the thermistor or what.
Renate NST said:
If you have a voltmeter, see if you can measure a voltage across the red and black leads out of the battery.
The Nook will not boot up without a battery (on the USB obviously).
I haven't looked into whether it's a safety on the thermistor or what.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks i do have a voltmeter but there is no red black lead, there are 6 wires as in the image attached, do you know what the six wires are or is there anyway to find a pinout from them so i could meter it?
There's no other tricks to reset the battery is there i have heard sometimes the battery needs to be left unconnected for a few hours then reconnected but that didn't do nothing for me
Thanks
I see red, I see black.
The two red wires on the connector are positive.
The two black leads on the connector are negative.
The yellow and the green are for the thermistor to measure battery temperature.
A truly frozen Nook.
I finally got around to investigating fully the whole battery wiring on the Nook.
Some people have expressed interest in running a Nook without a battery.
Removing the battery and using USB power does not work.
As stated above, of the 6 wires, the two red are positive and the two black are negative.
The green wire is a battery ID.
This is a 30K ohm resistance to ground to indicate that the battery is plugged in.
The yellow wire is for battery temperature.
This is a NTC (Negative Temperature Coefficient) thermistor.
It has a resistance of about 10K ohms at room temperature, decreasing as the temperature goes up.
You can run your Nook without the yellow wire (thermistor).
(The battery temperature will be off.)
You do need the green wire (battery ID) to get the Nook to power.
If you want to run your Nook without a battery,
connect a 30K from green to ground (27K seems to work fine) and
connect a 10K from yellow to ground (just to be nice) and
feed the V+ battery with around 4V.
You might try feeding that with a diode voltage drop off the USB connector.
(I didn't try that.)
The screen shot indicates -40C for open and +40C for 5K ohms.
(Thanks to 160thehaven for the photo. I have no macro lens.)
Renate NST said:
If you have a voltmeter, see if you can measure a voltage across the red and black leads out of the battery.
The Nook will not boot up without a battery (on the USB obviously).
I haven't looked into whether it's a safety on the thermistor or what.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
okay close to throwing this thing away, the light is always green. I think the battery is not charging. even though when plugged in i seem to be getting a voltage swing on the red and black wires.
Should i measure the voltage across the red and black wires when booting up the nook? with the usb disconnected
To make life easy, grab the ground off the metal cage for the SD card.
What's the voltage on the red with no USB connection?
When you connect the Nook to your PC does it ever say, "Found new device OMAP3630"?
The question, is the processor powering up at all?
Is it doing the primary bootloader?
Is it doing the secondary bootloader?
If you had a kernel console, it might tell you what's up.
Just for yucks, what's the voltage on the yellow and green test points?
Does it pulse every few seconds?
his eedolsi
Renate NST said:
To make life easy, grab the ground off the metal cage for the SD card.
What's the voltage on the red with no USB connection? i will test this now
When you connect the Nook to your PC does it ever say, "Found new device OMAP3630"?
yes it does and it looks for the driver and keeps connecting and reconnecting
The question, is the processor powering up at all? how would i know this
Is it doing the primary bootloader? how would i know this
Is it doing the secondary bootloader? how would i know this
If you had a kernel console, it might tell you what's up.
Just for yucks, what's the voltage on the yellow and green test points?
Does it pulse every few seconds?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes when plugged in the light is solid green but then pulses orange every few seconds
160thehaven said:
yes when plugged in the light is solid green but then pulses orange every few seconds
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh, I was asking if the green and yellow test points pulse.
What's the voltage on them?
Mdevai 155
Renate NST said:
Oh, I was asking if the green and yellow test points pulse.
What's the voltage on them?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i give up no voltage anywhere, i think the battery is defective
thanks for you help its going to go in scrap heap- only useful debug feature it does is flash the orange light the odd time when connected to charger- prob means something to barnes and noble
im sorry i purchased this
Aw, don't give up so easily.
I hate an unsolved mystery.
You're sure that your voltmeter is working correctly?
You can't measure anything from the V+ test point to the SD card metal frame?
There's no way to exchange it with B&N?
If you are really giving up, I'll take a look/keep it/fix it/return it/something.
Send me a PM for details.
I'm actually having the same problem. It started a couple of days ago. I tried using this method (http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1813384) and I was able to at least boot it. However, after only one day (without using it much) it started failing again and now when I use that trick it lasts a few minutes.
I will try measuring the battery voltage and I wonder if it would be a good idea to try to re-root it. However, I don't know if I should try in case it freezes half way through the flashing and I end up with a nice black brick.
I think this issue is happening quite a lot. I hope we can all work together to find a solution.
--Update--
I checked the voltage on the battery and it shows 40mV. So it's definitely depleted. However, when I do the trick and manage to boot the device, it says that the battery is 100% charged and the green LED is on. Conclusion, the device is preventing the battery from getting charged :/ Any ideas how to fix this? Is there any other way I can charge the battery?
40 mV?
If your voltmeter is working and on the correct place, then your battery is way dead, as in broken.
We can argue about whether you should discharge Li ion to 3.5 V, 3.3 V, 3.0 or even 2.5V,
but if any time it's reading a lot less than that, then you have a deceased battery.
If it's open or high resistance, a charging circuit can take it up to 4.1 V easily.
It would show as 100% charged but have no actual charge to backup that statistic.
It's interesting, because the BQ24072 should be able to power up the Nook without a battery.
I think it's that pesky MSP430F2272 that is not allowing the Nook to go on without a battery.
This calls for more experimenting!
Renate NST said:
40 mV?
If your voltmeter is working and on the correct place, then your battery is way dead, as in broken.
We can argue about whether you should discharge Li ion to 3.5 V, 3.3 V, 3.0 or even 2.5V,
but if any time it's reading a lot less than that, then you have a deceased battery.
If it's open or high resistance, a charging circuit can take it up to 4.1 V easily.
It would show as 100% charged but have no actual charge to backup that statistic.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
First of all thank you for your help.
Maybe I measured it wrong?... I was checking the voltage between the red cable (or so I think) and the metallic frame where you put the micro SD card. I also checked it from there to the black cable and it said 0 V, as I was expecting.
Renate NST said:
It's interesting, because the BQ24072 should be able to power up the Nook without a battery.
I think it's that pesky MSP430F2272 that is not allowing the Nook to go on without a battery.
This calls for more experimenting!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Definitely! I'm up for it!
Look, Ma, no battery!
The Nook seems pretty idiosyncratic how it will turn on.
I was trying to make it work just USB powered.
At the least, that gives the people with battery problems a reference point.
On the photo above there are two points labelled "V+ Battery.
Solder the cathode (the stripey end) of a 1N4001 (or better) diode to one of these points.
Connect the anode of the diode to the red wire of a spare, gutted USB cable.
Connect the black wire of the USB cable to the gold border on the circuit board.
Plug in the USB cable. The Nook should boot.
I've tried just stealing the 5V off the Nook's USB connector, but the Nook refuses to boot when both the USB and battery come up at the same time.
The ID and the thermistor circuits don't seem to be that necessary.
i have same DOA device (Simple Touch with Glowlight) , wont power on , green led on usb charger or pc usb cable , quickly reappeared 3630 omap device in device manager when pressed power button
i disassembled device - accu show 2.4v , i recharged accu in turnigy charger - it normally charged about 3 hours and show capacity 1550mah but when i connected it back to the nook it wont power up again and same green light on charger and usb cable , i try all reset combinations - no luck
It is possible for your battery to accept current, charge and still not be able to supply any current.
This would be the case if the charge circuit is working but the discharge circuit is open.
Did you measure the battery voltage after charging?
Can you measure it with some sort of load on it?
50 to 100 ohms would be fine.
If anybody has gotten far enough to tear a battery down any identifying photos of the battery protection module would be appreciated.
i find another working nook (without glow) , tomorrow i check battery (but battery is ok - i try it in charger . internal resistance is low an discharge on 1A corrent is ok )
but now i solder wires from regulated power supply to battery tp - i find nook consumption is 160 mA current on 4.2 v supply and it reacted on power button - if i press pw about 20 - 30 sec is 0 ma current press again and 160 mA still here
battery is ok . screen is ok , mainboard is not ok
working nook eat 150 mA current on start , working nook not start when regulated power supply connected on battery tp - press power button , 150 mA . depress button - 0mA
replaced mainboard ( from nook gl with broken screen) - all working ok

Completely dead N7, help needed.

A friend has given me his 2012 Nexus 7 because it wont switch on.
I read many solutions on how to fix this but nothing works. I'm getting no responce from the device at all.
Heres what I've tried:
Leaving on mains charge for over 24 hours.
Long press on power button (30s+)
Disconnect battery cable & re-attach it.
Un-plugging & re-plugging in power & then trying to power it on.
Theres voltage going through the usb socket & I've measured power at the battery connector with my volt meter but its not powering up.
Now I've read that the Nexus 7 normally has a 5V/2A mains supply, however, I'm only using a 5V/1A supply which I use normally for my phone. Could this be why its not powering up as its not getting enough voltage to kick start it from being completely run down?
If its not the mains power, any ideas what could be causing the problem & is there any way to fix it?
Thanks.

All Sorts of USB-Related Weirdness

Have had a stock Le Pro 3 since Dec 2016. No real issues prior to the last few days.
1. The device will only charge when powered ON. If powered OFF, the phone will vibrate once, the LED indicator will briefly come on, then turn off. Unplugging it and plugging it back it again does literally nothing--no vibration or LED indicator.
2. The device will not power on while plugged in. It will simply vibrate after a few seconds, then nothing.
3. The device will not connect to my PC for data. Have tried four different cables without success. It will charge from PC, however.
4. When connecting to USB and powered ON, the phone will vibrate and show the battery charging indicator, but will then hesitate slightly (battery charging indicator turns off), then shows the battery charging indicator again. Not sure if that means anything, just seems odd given everything else.
5. USB headphones do not detect/work.
6. The USB to 3.5mm adapter for headphones does work.
I've tried a factory reset to no success and have ordered a replacement USB C board just to be safe (it was $5 shipped), but am at a loss as to what to do. Tempted to let the battery drain completely and see if that puts everything into working order, but as it's my only phone, that seems a bit risky if I can't be sure it will ever start charging again while powered down.
Anyone here run into these sorts of issues before and any advice if you have?
sherlockjr said:
Have had a stock Le Pro 3 since Dec 2016. No real issues prior to the last few days.
1. The device will only charge when powered ON. If powered OFF, the phone will vibrate once, the LED indicator will briefly come on, then turn off. Unplugging it and plugging it back it again does literally nothing--no vibration or LED indicator.
2. The device will not power on while plugged in. It will simply vibrate after a few seconds, then nothing.
3. The device will not connect to my PC for data. Have tried four different cables without success. It will charge from PC, however.
4. When connecting to USB and powered ON, the phone will vibrate and show the battery charging indicator, but will then hesitate slightly (battery charging indicator turns off), then shows the battery charging indicator again. Not sure if that means anything, just seems odd given everything else.
5. USB headphones do not detect/work.
6. The USB to 3.5mm adapter for headphones does work.
I've tried a factory reset to no success and have ordered a replacement USB C board just to be safe (it was $5 shipped), but am at a loss as to what to do. Tempted to let the battery drain completely and see if that puts everything into working order, but as it's my only phone, that seems a bit risky if I can't be sure it will ever start charging again while powered down.
Anyone here run into these sorts of issues before and any advice if you have?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A $5 board will not solve your problems. It will likely get you into deeper trouble because it doesn't support mtp and otg. It's only good for charging.
Your connector is probably damaged. You can try contact cleaner/lubricant on the connector. It may fix your issue. Something like this https://www.electrolube.com/products/contact-lubricants/eml/contact_cleaner_lubricants/
I use lubricant often on usb-c connectors even if they are working. Just extends the lifetime of connectors, the pins are really small after all so the contact surface is not much.
Replacing the usb-c board is not an easy task. You would need to remove the screen etc.

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