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Hi! This issue has plagued me ever since i am using windows mobile. I own a TOUCH HD (though i think this issue is also with other windows mobiles) and a A2DP Stereo bluetooth headset from Sony.
http://images.google.nl/imgres?imgu...ox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&sa=N&um=1
Now here's the problem. When I pair the phone with the Headset, it pairs the 2 services HANDSFREE & WIRELESS STEREO. Then i can listen to music via the headset.
When i turn the headset off and then back on again, it switches on the HANDSFREE ONLY !! And i have to go thru the following process to turn on the WIRELESS STEREO again:
1. on phone, click on Bluetooth Devices
2. select the headset device to view the 2 services (handsfree and wirless stereo). Both are selected. Deselect the Wireless Stereo service.
3. SAVE
4. on phone, click on Bluetooth Devices
5. select the headset device to view the 2 services (handsfree and wirless stereo). Re-select the Wireless Stereo service.
6. SAVE
Then it works again and i can listen to my music again.
Its a very annoying process and I wish someone could help me to explain if there is a faster way? Does everyone also have to go thru this process or am i doing something wrong?
Does there exist a program that can automate this process or any other solution?
looking forward to replies!
there are more than one small app to make it easy.i found one that works on my HD. uploaded for you here:
http://rapidshare.com/files/207816065/13-BTaudioTransfer.cab
next time try and do a search....
thanks a lot! It actually works! cant imagine why microsoft creates an OS without this built in as standard !
thanks.
ronald_adi said:
Hi! This issue has plagued me ever since i am using windows mobile. I own a TOUCH HD (though i think this issue is also with other windows mobiles) and a A2DP Stereo bluetooth headset from Sony.
http://images.google.nl/imgres?imgu...ox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&sa=N&um=1
Now here's the problem. When I pair the phone with the Headset, it pairs the 2 services HANDSFREE & WIRELESS STEREO. Then i can listen to music via the headset.
When i turn the headset off and then back on again, it switches on the HANDSFREE ONLY !! And i have to go thru the following process to turn on the WIRELESS STEREO again:
1. on phone, click on Bluetooth Devices
2. select the headset device to view the 2 services (handsfree and wirless stereo). Both are selected. Deselect the Wireless Stereo service.
3. SAVE
4. on phone, click on Bluetooth Devices
5. select the headset device to view the 2 services (handsfree and wirless stereo). Re-select the Wireless Stereo service.
6. SAVE
Then it works again and i can listen to my music again.
Its a very annoying process and I wish someone could help me to explain if there is a faster way? Does everyone also have to go thru this process or am i doing something wrong?
Does there exist a program that can automate this process or any other solution?
looking forward to replies!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a same problem with my car audio, but when i install this BT program in lower post they connect me only to handsfreee, and when i go to play music they disconnected my car BT audio.
Just for you interest - this does NOT make A2DP work.
Mirror site please!!!
KukurikU said:
there are more than one small app to make it easy.i found one that works on my HD. uploaded for you here:
http://rapidshare.com/files/207816065/13-BTaudioTransfer.cab
next time try and do a search....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can someone please mirror this download, my limit is up on.
Here is the source.
I got it downloaded, and here is the developers web site
http://trianglepowers.com/PPC
(sorry all, could not find an edit for my last post)
Pair your stereo headset and select the Heaset and Wireless Stereo profiles, this will work from start.
Next time you turn on your stereo headset it will only connect as standard headset (ie mono for phone calls)....
Just press the play/pause button on your headset and it will auto connect to A2DP stereo also.
Simple EH?
Tried that!
I have tried that, and do it on my laptop (another set and stereo profile only), it may be dependent on the headset you are using.
The Triangle Powers BT Stereo is mono output only, and made the audio quality poor on my HD. http://trianglepowers.com/PPC/ViewApp.aspx?ID=52
I installed teksoft A2DP Toggle 1.1 this morning http://teksoftco.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1885 and added it to the program button in TouchFlo, not the today screen. it seems to work fine if you press the button twice, better than 7 clicks. (My HD info in the signature, Telstra TouchFlo replaced by Standard HD)
GSamways said:
I got it downloaded, and here is the developers web site
http://trianglepowers.com/PPC
(sorry all, could not find an edit for my last post)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looks like promising software, I will play with it and update in few days with pros and cons
GSamways said:
I have tried that, and do it on my laptop (another set and stereo profile only), it may be dependent on the headset you are using.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If pushing the Play/Pause does not connect a previously paired BT Stereo Headset to your HD then it is not a true A2DP profile headset.
See if you can get your hands on a pair of folding Sony DR-BT22 headphones.
True A2DP with built in mike to answer incoming calls. Bass is very good and full funtion with the HD.
Highly recommended.
ronald_adi said:
Hi! This issue has plagued me ever since i am using windows mobile. I own a TOUCH HD (though i think this issue is also with other windows mobiles) and a A2DP Stereo bluetooth headset from Sony.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ronald_adi said:
Hmm! I pair the HD with a great bluetooth headphones from Sony I got in Tokyo recently (not the same as yours). I dont have any problem with the A2DP connection at all. I have perfect high audio definition thru to the headset.
Sorry not much help-but it may be the headset not the HD thats your problem!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Agree
You guys are correct, the smaller headsets that try to share the Play/Answer/end button are probably the issue.
I have been using A2Dp Toggle 1.1 as mentioned and link above and it works great, no loss of sound noticed.
We should start an XDA (not just HTC) WiKi to list headsets that connect or not for WM5 and WM6.
HD Compatible Headphone
I have a Sony DR-BT50 headphone that works beautifully. The sound is brilliant for Music and particuarly movies that I have transferred from DVD to the HD with MP4HT4HD!
I never thought that i would watch a movie on a screen so small but the clarity is something else and the high audio signal with the bluetooth headphones make it a pleasure! Great for long layovers at airports etc.
Any in-ear types that work?
All the sets that I have seen posted as working are the full headphone (over ear) types, and this may again be a shared button thing.
Does anyone have / know of an in-ear / earbud type that works / connects correctly
A2DP Toggle 1.1
I dowmloade that A2DP Toggle 1.1 on my phone. I use HTC TYTN1 running Windows Mobile 6 Professional and this software gives hell to say the least.
When I connect it to my headset, it works fine BUT it does not pay MP3s on my headset. It keeps on saying ERR on the icon of the head speakers (the second icon form bluetooth icon). I even asked most of the technician but no one knows anythings. If anyone knows what my probles is, please rescue me!!!
I might be doing something, please help me guys
Toggle works for me!
I had the same problem, the triangle powers prog didn't work for me. In fact the headset icon was on but no playback.
The toggle 1.1 works, none of the funcitons described on it's website are available, setup and various icons are from the home page but HTC Touch HD home page doesn't support that.
Never the less, putting Toggle in my program list and using it toggles easy between phone speaker and headset. Like someone has already said, two clicks and we're in business from starting my van to getting music from my phone on the stereo. I'm happy enough with that.
I have a Pioneer stereo with Parat built in, so I get BT audio and Hands free calls. All seems to be working perfectly now. Thanks to this thread.
I'm trying to find out if there is a way I can automatically make my bluetooth use a default 'on' setting of having both handsfree AND stereo streaming enabled?
The reason is that I recently bought a Sony head unit for my car which is BT enabled for both calls and music streaming. It's superb and is really easy to use in that respect and works very well indeed.
The problem is though that when I turn on BT on the phone, whether manually or by a profile switching program, it switches on with a default of hands free enabled, but not the music streaming function (A2DP?) so every time I want to stream music in the car I have to go to Windows>Settings>Bluetooth, then activate the stereo streaming option in the bluetooth control app, and this is really frustrating and fiddly.
I just want it so that every time I turn on BT (no matter by what means) that both these BT options are enabled automatically.
I have a sneaky suspicion that it's an easy thing to do and I'm just overlooking it so apologies if that's the case! I have found a setting for "Connect separately to Bluetooth hands-free and stereo audio devices" and I have unchecked this, but it has not helped.
Can anyone tell me how to do this please? And sorry if it's totally obvious! If I can't do this with the default phone settings, is there a suitable bluetooth management app that would solve it?
On a slightly different but related note...
The other thing I really want with BT (as per other peoples threads on this subject) is for Bluetooth and Wifi to switch on every single time I plug the phone into a charger.
I've tried 3 different profile switching apps now, and whilst they are pretty good I can't get them to behave 100% how I want, but more importantly they all seem to cause a very noticeable increase in battery drain. Some are better than others but I just can't hit the happy combination I want to justify all the hassle of setting them up and having less battery etc. I wonder if mortscript can do what I need. Presume so, so I'll have to have a look into it.....
Thanks anyway!
Actually - apologies but I think I found a couple of useful threads about this now that for some reason I missed when I was searching earlier. Doh!
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=619618&highlight=bluetooth
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=583570&highlight=bluetooth
I do love the phone and despite there are very few minor details i would love to be changed by LG (if any update), i have realized something. You know there are some devices that when you are nearby, and if your bluetooth is on and already has paired with that device before, the device connects automatically to the paired device.
I have a bluetooth FM transmitter in my car; eventhought i did pair with it, after turning off and then turning on my bluetooth, i didnt see it got automatically connected. Could it be that LG didn't implemented that feature, thus, making us go to bluetooth settings everytime we want to pair with it again?
I haven't had that trouble yet. It pairs whenever I am near anything I have paired with it.
Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk
Tidbits said:
I haven't had that trouble yet. It pairs whenever I am near anything I have paired with it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I mean, is not that it wont allow me to connect. it does connect to the device and it is already paired, but for things such as a bluetooth in the car to be able to do it automatically, well, it doesnt do it automatically, when i turn on the bluetooth it does appear a floating box to select which one do you want to connect, regardless of whether the device is already paired or not. (Maybe it is a good thing ?) I mean, i activated the smart lock and i choosed that when im inside the car with the bluetooth on and paired to my car's bluetooth it will remains unlocked even when i turn off the screen
I hop into my car start the car couple seconds later my device is paired. I don't touch anything other than putting it in my car dock.
Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk
mine pairs with my car in seconds. much faster than my note 7 or note 4 did
Tidbits said:
I hop into my car start the car couple seconds later my device is paired. I don't touch anything other than putting it in my car dock.
Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
probablecauzdnb said:
mine pairs with my car in seconds. much faster than my note 7 or note 4 did
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm Going to try something . And i will report back
Hope everything works out.
Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk
Tidbits said:
Hope everything works out.
Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And no. I tried to unpair and pair again and see, but it doesnt connect automatically even though it is paired. I also tried to unplug and plug the bluetooth once again but it didnt connect automatically. Which leads me to the following questions: What lockscreens and securities have you implemented on your device? such as: finger print, patter, pin, google voice, face unlock , etc.. ?
I have knock on and fingerprint on. I have voice, and all my Bluetooth devices as trusted.
Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk
Tidbits said:
I have knock on and fingerprint on. I have voice, and all my Bluetooth devices as trusted.
Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe i have way too many methods at the same time, i have knock knock, fingerprint, google voice, and pattern? maybe one of them is not allowing the bluetooth to connect because you need to activate some option?
P.S: On the other hand, my computer gets connected in milliseconds .
No idea but it sounds like something between your phone and your car.
Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk
Tidbits said:
No idea but it sounds like something between your phone and your car.
Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you saying that my car is being as selfish as iphones (which never want to pair with android because of its selfishness???! <_<?)
Possibly or the V20 just doesn't like your car ?
Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk
Tidbits said:
Possibly or the V20 just doesn't like your car
Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
LOL!! (seriously though, whats going on with iphones? I do manage to pair with the iphone but the iphone dont want to pair with android). Anyway, i will try disabling some stuffs and see whether it connects automatically or not.
joseguillen1994 said:
I mean, is not that it wont allow me to connect. it does connect to the device and it is already paired, but for things such as a bluetooth in the car to be able to do it automatically, well, it doesnt do it automatically, when i turn on the bluetooth it does appear a floating box to select which one do you want to connect, regardless of whether the device is already paired or not. (Maybe it is a good thing ?) I mean, i activated the smart lock and i choosed that when im inside the car with the bluetooth on and paired to my car's bluetooth it will remains unlocked even when i turn off the screen
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This box is giving you a choice of what to connect to? This doesn't sound like an issue to me but expected behavior. Somewhere in one of the threads is a photo someone else posted that sounds vaguely like this. Chances are, you've given your phone more than one choice of things to connect to and it's asking what to do.
CHH2 said:
This box is giving you a choice of what to connect to? This doesn't sound like an issue to me but expected behavior. Somewhere in one of the threads is a photo someone else posted that sounds vaguely like this. Chances are, you've given your phone more than one choice of things to connect to and it's asking what to do.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes. It does. However, my samsung galaxy s4 and LG G3 connect automatically to the bluetooth >> "Perhaps is because im using custom roms in all of them, :silly: .
The 'automatically connect' thing isn't dependent on the phone. its determined by the device you're trying to connect to it. Generally a peripheral will be the one initiating the connect, not the phone. For instance, for a car stero, the car stereo turns on and if the bluetooth mode is what turns on first (as in, you had bluetooth mode on when you turned the car off, so when the car is started it defaults to the bluetooth mode) then the radio sends a signal to the 'last paired device' and initiates the connection. Same thing for BT Headphones. If they were already paired to the phone before the headphones were turned off, then when they turn back on, they try to initiate the connection with that last paired device/phone. You can easily test this by simply hopping into your car with everything paired and playing music. Then, you turn the phone off and turn it back on. The connection usually never re-establishes because the phone usually never initiates anything unless explicitly told to by the user. This is a security feature... You dont want your phone actively trying to make connections with things that it 'thinks' is safe when they may really not be.
Now if you perform the same experiment backwards, where you turn the car/stereo off instead of the phone, then turn the car/stereo back on, you'll see it automatically try to connect. This is because its safer for a 'dumby' device like headphones and stereos to broadcast its existence since it contains zero personal info. Even the stereos that ask to sync your contacts. Because every time you connect the phone it resyncs. and most stereos delete their info once the connection is broken and so many seconds/minutes pass by.
So, more than likely, its your fm transmitter that's at fault. your bluetooth fm transmitter might be using an older bluetooth standard which may not function properly with the newer standards implemented in the V20. Ya need to remember that the Bluetooth radio in the V20 is special. Its not your every day BT. There is only one other phone in existence right now that is like it, and that's the G5. It supports a whole slue of different codecs at insanely higher bitrates. Because its either the fm transmitter's BT tech is too outdated for newer standards/codecs, or it isn't set to auto re-connect anymore somehow.
HikariNoKitsune said:
The 'automatically connect' thing isn't dependent on the phone. its determined by the device you're trying to connect to it. Generally a peripheral will be the one initiating the connect, not the phone. For instance, for a car stero, the car stereo turns on and if the bluetooth mode is what turns on first (as in, you had bluetooth mode on when you turned the car off, so when the car is started it defaults to the bluetooth mode) then the radio sends a signal to the 'last paired device' and initiates the connection. Same thing for BT Headphones. If they were already paired to the phone before the headphones were turned off, then when they turn back on, they try to initiate the connection with that last paired device/phone. You can easily test this by simply hopping into your car with everything paired and playing music. Then, you turn the phone off and turn it back on. The connection usually never re-establishes because the phone usually never initiates anything unless explicitly told to by the user. This is a security feature... You dont want your phone actively trying to make connections with things that it 'thinks' is safe when they may really not be.
Now if you perform the same experiment backwards, where you turn the car/stereo off instead of the phone, then turn the car/stereo back on, you'll see it automatically try to connect. This is because its safer for a 'dumby' device like headphones and stereos to broadcast its existence since it contains zero personal info. Even the stereos that ask to sync your contacts. Because every time you connect the phone it resyncs. and most stereos delete their info once the connection is broken and so many seconds/minutes pass by.
So, more than likely, its your fm transmitter that's at fault. your bluetooth fm transmitter might be using an older bluetooth standard which may not function properly with the newer standards implemented in the V20. Ya need to remember that the Bluetooth radio in the V20 is special. Its not your every day BT. There is only one other phone in existence right now that is like it, and that's the G5. It supports a whole slue of different codecs at insanely higher bitrates. Because its either the fm transmitter's BT tech is too outdated for newer standards/codecs, or it isn't set to auto re-connect anymore somehow.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In other words,,, i need to buy a new bluetooth fm transmitter HAHAHAHA . well. time to sell the old (8 month old though).
joseguillen1994 said:
In other words,,, i need to buy a new bluetooth fm transmitter HAHAHAHA . well. time to sell the old (8 month old though).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It really just depends though. the LG V20 and LG G5 use Qualcomm's special BT chip which allows for "Aptx HD" audio streaming along with some other very high bitrate codecs. So it could be an issue with the FM Transmitter not being compatible with this and thus the V20 just goes 'nope, i dont want you'. While it also depends on the type of BT the transmitter is using. If its using 2.0 it may just not play nice with 4.2. Even though BT is supposed to be backwards compatible and all that jaz, it doesn't mean that 'every thing' is actually compatible sadly... what i'd do, is search "aptx HD" into google. there is what amounts to a 'product page' for it by qualcomm. it lets you see all the devices that are compatible. So once you're there, I'd have a gander at their FM Transmitters. there was I think 2 or 3 there when I looked yesterday. I did alot of research into this thing the past few days cause I'm getting the V20 and thinking about getting the LG Tone headphones that support aptx HD
I just bought the LG V20 and noticed the same thing... BUT instead of going over what BT devices didn't auto connect (none of them auto-connected), I just tried restarting the phone (power off, wait 10 seconds, and turned back on) and now it is automatically connecting to my old Jawbone headset. I have not tested it with my other BT devices that weren't auto-connecting before I restarted (I'll probably go back out to my car tonight to test it). I will report back if they still don't auto-connect.
Update (Fix): I don't think it was the restart, but I got it to work. I had to go into BT settings for each device, and make sure they all were enabled for "call audio". If "call audio" was not enabled, my devices would not auto-connect. I have now tested this with three of my BT devices, and they all auto-connect as long as "call audio" is enabled (media audio setting doesn't matter):
Jawbone Era
Flexsmart x3 BT FM Transmitter
Artic BT Stereo Headset
All of these devices are a few years old and two are ultra inexpensive, so no ultra high-end tech here.
I have not tested to see if I try to use my headset for calls with my BT FM transmitter for media while both having the "call audio" enabled. I hope this is not an issue. I usually listen to the news on my phone through the car's radio, and if I get a phone call I turn on my BT headset. My FM transmitter's mic sucks, so I have to use the BT headset when in the car. I will check this out tomorrow.
Hi Guys.
I've seen a number of posts on this subject so here's my story and my experience thus far.
I've been using an iPhone 7 since it came out. I've been very happy playing music in my car (Fiesta with SYNC2 system) all this time. My significant other has been using an S8 for some time, and her music always sounded 'crackly' (for lack of a better word) in the car. I thought this was just her Spotify or something.
2 Days ago I bought my own S8 and I had exactly the same issue.
Now from some research I've been able to deduce that this is down to the Bluetooth Codec the phone uses. I changed mine to aptX yesterday and the music quality was great. Didn't sound like a 200KB MP3 downloaded in the early 2000's anymore.
However...
Last night I had to reboot my phone for reasons, and the developer options reset completely, which I believe is normal behavior. But now I can't set my Bluetooth Codec anymore? I change it, the moment I close the menu, it reverts back to SBC. I tried this with Bluetooth off, Bluetooth on and not connected, Bluetooth on and connected, no joy. It keeps reverting. Same goes for all the other Bluetooth settings (i.e bitrate).
So gentleman I ask you humbly, wtf? Why does the settings not stick and is this normal behavior? Is there a way I can force it to use AAC or aptX once more? I really have come to enjoy this phone but playing music in my car is a very very big factor and since AUX and USB (can't seem to play Apple Music/Google Music via USB) isn't an option, I'm stuck with Bluetooth.
Thanks in advance,
Have you made sure dual audio is disabled???
If not, go to Bluetooth, turn it on, hit the tripple dots in the top right and tap on "Dual Audio"
Make sure it's off and now try changing to AptX or whatever codec works best for you.
Disable / re-enable Buetooth and see if it sticks. (Try rebooting too)
Also, Bluetooth codecs will automatically change if the device you're connecting to doesn't support your choice of codec.
Keep me posted
CoreyOS said:
Have you made sure dual audio is disabled???
If not, go to Bluetooth, turn it on, hit the tripple dots in the top right and tap on "Dual Audio"
Make sure it's off and now try changing to AptX or whatever codec works best for you.
Disable / re-enable Buetooth and see if it sticks. (Try rebooting too)
Also, Bluetooth codecs will automatically change if the device you're connecting to doesn't support your choice of codec.
Keep me posted
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Corey,
Thanks for the response. Unfortunately, the above didn't work Dual audio was disabled, I enabled it and disabled it again. I tried changing the codec and bit rate but the result is the same, the moment I close the menu or turn on Bluetooth, it reverts back to SBC and Best Effort bitrate. I should mention that when I turn on the Bluetooth, it doesn't connect to anything, the only paired device at this point is my car.
Interestingly enough, if I don't close the menu but just hit the middle button, the settings will stay as is and the audio is great. What I haven't tried yet is closing the menu after a 'good' connection is made to the car. It may be that the setting sticks but the menu says otherwise. But I can definitely confirm that if I close the menu and then connect, the audio is garbage.
As for the compatibility of the car's Bluetooth, well it's a Ford SYNC2 system which from what I can see is actually quite basic. I am starting to this the problem isn't as much the codec, but rather the bitrate at which the phone is playing/sending music across the Bluetooth.
dxcza said:
Hi Corey,
Thanks for the response. Unfortunately, the above didn't work Dual audio was disabled, I enabled it and disabled it again. I tried changing the codec and bit rate but the result is the same, the moment I close the menu or turn on Bluetooth, it reverts back to SBC and Best Effort bitrate. I should mention that when I turn on the Bluetooth, it doesn't connect to anything, the only paired device at this point is my car.
Interestingly enough, if I don't close the menu but just hit the middle button, the settings will stay as is and the audio is great. What I haven't tried yet is closing the menu after a 'good' connection is made to the car. It may be that the setting sticks but the menu says otherwise. But I can definitely confirm that if I close the menu and then connect, the audio is garbage.
As for the compatibility of the car's Bluetooth, well it's a Ford SYNC2 system which from what I can see is actually quite basic. I am starting to this the problem isn't as much the codec, but rather the bitrate at which the phone is playing/sending music across the Bluetooth.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not gonna' lie, I'm not very impressed by the Bluetooth on the S8... or Bluetooth in general.
It's lousy most of the time, mine always distorts and especially around emergency vehicles... (Could be interference from their coms???)
If possible, just stick to good 'ol copper wire
I can't imagine wireless audio not ever being interfered with and will always stay wired.
Also, try a music app called Poweramp.
It has many settings involving latency etc. It has a trial for 2 weeks and is worth EVERY penny if you decide to buy IMHO.
Try the build version first, if that doesn't have settings that you need, try the alpha version.
It has lots of latency settings etc
I'm guessing higher latency = better results as it has more time to be pushed over BT before the sound is reproduced.
I'm probably wrong though.
Can't beat lots of settings tho aye.
CoreyOS said:
I'm not gonna' lie, I'm not very impressed by the Bluetooth on the S8... or Bluetooth in general.
It's lousy most of the time, mine always distorts and especially around emergency vehicles... (Could be interference from their coms???)
If possible, just stick to good 'ol copper wire
I can't imagine wireless audio not ever being interfered with and will always stay wired.
Also, try a music app called Poweramp.
It has many settings involving latency etc. It has a trial for 2 weeks and is worth EVERY penny if you decide to buy IMHO.
Try the build version first, if that doesn't have settings that you need, try the alpha version.
It has lots of latency settings etc
I'm guessing higher latency = better results as it has more time to be pushed over BT before the sound is reproduced.
I'm probably wrong though.
Can't beat lots of settings tho aye.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Morning Corey,
Yeah so my situation at the moment is to have my old iPhone in the car at all times as a glorified bluetooth player. I've also gone out and bought an auxiliary cable for when the iPhone's battery dies on me (happens more often than one would think). And to have a charger for the iPhone, charger for the Samsung and aux cable for the Samsung all plugged in becomes really messy.
It must be something to do with the Bluetooth 5 feature. I don't know what version the iPhone is (cba to check) but it works like a dream.
Wish we had some form of backwards compatibility or a feature to force an older version with Samsung. Just sucks buying a phone which is really not cheap in ZA just to have the music sound like a 300kb MP3 played on Winamp with the treble bars turned up all the way.
I'll try out the app you suggested mate, thanks!
dxcza said:
Morning Corey,
Yeah so my situation at the moment is to have my old iPhone in the car at all times as a glorified bluetooth player. I've also gone out and bought an auxiliary cable for when the iPhone's battery dies on me (happens more often than one would think). And to have a charger for the iPhone, charger for the Samsung and aux cable for the Samsung all plugged in becomes really messy.
It must be something to do with the Bluetooth 5 feature. I don't know what version the iPhone is (cba to check) but it works like a dream.
Wish we had some form of backwards compatibility or a feature to force an older version with Samsung. Just sucks buying a phone which is really not cheap in ZA just to have the music sound like a 300kb MP3 played on Winamp with the treble bars turned up all the way.
I'll try out the app you suggested mate, thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No worries and if you are referring to a USB cigarette lighter charger/USB charger then try the multi-cables.
Try one of these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Poweradd-L...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=59QBSADVWM0NKGZGTQ4K
sorry to drag up an old thread, i have the same problem ( sync2 too) and it is same issues. I have noticed that even though its bad its tolerable bad. then i add my samsung watch and becomes awful.
did you ever figure the issue out? i feel its the sync2 causing some kind of problem
ninjatiger26 said:
sorry to drag up an old thread, i have the same problem ( sync2 too) and it is same issues. I have noticed that even though its bad its tolerable bad. then i add my samsung watch and becomes awful.
did you ever figure the issue out? i feel its the sync2 causing some kind of problem
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I dont know yet I have been using my s8 and bluetooth audio for watch speakers controllers everything and today for the first time my speaker was crackling under bluetooth
I will most def be trying to recreate this and figure it out cause it was very iratating...
Just posted the same on reddit:
Gonna be a long read, with many tips
So, I have an Android headunit and was using the built-in Carplay app Zlink. Now I'm using Carlinkit dongle for Carplay, and here's why.
I'm referring to Carlinkit wireless carplay dongle, not Carlinkit wired to wireless adapter - very important!
As you already know, using Carplay in Android headunits generally introduces some audio lag, especially on wireless carplay. For example it takes some time after you press "next song" until the current song stops and the next one starts. Same with pause. Especially with wireless Carplay.The biggest issue for me is during phone calls, when you ask a question, takes a while to get an answer, and you also end up talking over eachother.
This is what I did: In the recent versions of Autokit with a recent version of the box firmware there is an advanced option to route audio through car bluetooth instead of through box. (not sure exactly what version you need, but latest versions have this option)If you select this, you need to connect your phone to the headunit bluetooth also, not only to autokit's box bluetooth (you connect to box BT for wireless)
Doing this allows for all audio to go through headunit's bluetooth which is basically lag-free.
So my setup is like this:
Wired: phone is connected by USB to dongle, and by BT to unitWireless: phone connects to box BT then to box WiFi for Carplay, and meanwhile also connects to head unit's BT for audio.
Advantages:
- No more lag when switching music or making calls, even in wireless carplay mode
- When the unit detects a call, it might do something smart that you want. Mine has a different volume for in-call, so I can now have louder phone calls without manually changing volume
- Since the phone is playing music over the BT connection, the unit is now aware that music is playing and knows artist and track name and it might display it somewhere, maybe have an overlay when changing tracks. Might be nice if you switch outside Carplay to some other screen/app on the unit.
- No more lag
- If unit has proper echo cancellation, it should work better, as BT is better controlled by the unit, unlike Carplay solutions which can have various delays that the unit cannot counter easily.
- If you were using built-in Carplay before (like I was), you wouldn't be able to use wireless Carplay and have internet from a hotspot, since unit's wifi was busy. If you switch to using Carlinkit dongle with Autokit, you free up unit's wifi and can now use a hotspot.
- Did I mention no more lag?
Disadvantages:
- Seems to use more battery when in wireless carplay mode, I think BT is less power efficient. My unit has BT 4.0, if yours has BT 5.0 maybe this would be better.
- This is a minor annoyance, but if your headunit BT is slow to connect to the phone (mine is) and you start playing music as soon as you have Carplay working (or have autoplay enabled), you might have music coming out of the phone speaker(s) for a few seconds, until unit BT connects and music goes to BT.
Beware the following:
- When using BT to listen to music, the volume on the phone matters, so make sure to turn it up to max. This volume level will be saved separately from usual phone volume though, so it's not a problem.
- Latest version of Autokit didn't find box updates for me, so if this option is not in the advanced settings, you might need to revert to an older version and use that to update box, then update app.
- After making this setup and trying to make a call, you might not hear anything, as the phone might use the carplay connection instead of the bluetooth connection. Just switch output from the phone "audio" button, and it seems to remember it for next times.
- Depending on the headunit and the software, when you get a call with this setup, headunit might decide to switch to it's own bluetooth phone app or just show an overlay. If it switches and it bothers you, try to find a solution specific to your unit. If it's an overlay and you want to remove it, what worked for me was going into android settings for app permissions and removing permission to draw over other apps for the unit's bluetooth app.
thanks for your post; i have a carplay dongle connected to an android headunit; when i call someone they have a very annoying echo voice. i wish it improves when my phone it connect to headunit bluetooth for calls
Are you able to get navigation audio using this option? I have the same dongle and was hoping I would get navigation too but I only get music audio. If I say "Hey Siri" just before Waze/Google Maps is about to prompt then I can hear the audio but doesn't really help me when driving. Looks like in my car the Navigation audio is going over the Siri channel? Not sure if anyone has a work around for that. Could be the way my car has bluetooth setup -- it's a 2012.
Can you provide a link or exact model for the "Carlinkit wireless carplay dongle"?
RPG0 said:
Just posted the same on reddit:
Gonna be a long read, with many tips
So, I have an Android headunit and was using the built-in Carplay app Zlink. Now I'm using Carlinkit dongle for Carplay, and here's why.
I'm referring to Carlinkit wireless carplay dongle, not Carlinkit wired to wireless adapter - very important!
As you already know, using Carplay in Android headunits generally introduces some audio lag, especially on wireless carplay. For example it takes some time after you press "next song" until the current song stops and the next one starts. Same with pause. Especially with wireless Carplay.The biggest issue for me is during phone calls, when you ask a question, takes a while to get an answer, and you also end up talking over eachother.
This is what I did: In the recent versions of Autokit with a recent version of the box firmware there is an advanced option to route audio through car bluetooth instead of through box. (not sure exactly what version you need, but latest versions have this option)If you select this, you need to connect your phone to the headunit bluetooth also, not only to autokit's box bluetooth (you connect to box BT for wireless)
Doing this allows for all audio to go through headunit's bluetooth which is basically lag-free.
So my setup is like this:
Wired: phone is connected by USB to dongle, and by BT to unitWireless: phone connects to box BT then to box WiFi for Carplay, and meanwhile also connects to head unit's BT for audio.
Advantages:
- No more lag when switching music or making calls, even in wireless carplay mode
- When the unit detects a call, it might do something smart that you want. Mine has a different volume for in-call, so I can now have louder phone calls without manually changing volume
- Since the phone is playing music over the BT connection, the unit is now aware that music is playing and knows artist and track name and it might display it somewhere, maybe have an overlay when changing tracks. Might be nice if you switch outside Carplay to some other screen/app on the unit.
- No more lag
- If unit has proper echo cancellation, it should work better, as BT is better controlled by the unit, unlike Carplay solutions which can have various delays that the unit cannot counter easily.
- If you were using built-in Carplay before (like I was), you wouldn't be able to use wireless Carplay and have internet from a hotspot, since unit's wifi was busy. If you switch to using Carlinkit dongle with Autokit, you free up unit's wifi and can now use a hotspot.
- Did I mention no more lag?
Disadvantages:
- Seems to use more battery when in wireless carplay mode, I think BT is less power efficient. My unit has BT 4.0, if yours has BT 5.0 maybe this would be better.
- This is a minor annoyance, but if your headunit BT is slow to connect to the phone (mine is) and you start playing music as soon as you have Carplay working (or have autoplay enabled), you might have music coming out of the phone speaker(s) for a few seconds, until unit BT connects and music goes to BT.
Beware the following:
- When using BT to listen to music, the volume on the phone matters, so make sure to turn it up to max. This volume level will be saved separately from usual phone volume though, so it's not a problem.
- Latest version of Autokit didn't find box updates for me, so if this option is not in the advanced settings, you might need to revert to an older version and use that to update box, then update app.
- After making this setup and trying to make a call, you might not hear anything, as the phone might use the carplay connection instead of the bluetooth connection. Just switch output from the phone "audio" button, and it seems to remember it for next times.
- Depending on the headunit and the software, when you get a call with this setup, headunit might decide to switch to it's own bluetooth phone app or just show an overlay. If it switches and it bothers you, try to find a solution specific to your unit. If it's an overlay and you want to remove it, what worked for me was going into android settings for app permissions and removing permission to draw over other apps for the unit's bluetooth app.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What is your box version?
When I try audio routing, on my iPhone still it shows Carplay as sound output option.
I tried this same option, but when my iPhone connects to wireless CarPlay, the head unit (not the dongle) turn off the bluetooth automatically, anyone knows how to stop this?
RPG0 said:
Just posted the same on reddit:
Gonna be a long read, with many tips
So, I have an Android headunit and was using the built-in Carplay app Zlink. Now I'm using Carlinkit dongle for Carplay, and here's why.
I'm referring to Carlinkit wireless carplay dongle, not Carlinkit wired to wireless adapter - very important!
As you already know, using Carplay in Android headunits generally introduces some audio lag, especially on wireless carplay. For example it takes some time after you press "next song" until the current song stops and the next one starts. Same with pause. Especially with wireless Carplay.The biggest issue for me is during phone calls, when you ask a question, takes a while to get an answer, and you also end up talking over eachother.
This is what I did: In the recent versions of Autokit with a recent version of the box firmware there is an advanced option to route audio through car bluetooth instead of through box. (not sure exactly what version you need, but latest versions have this option)If you select this, you need to connect your phone to the headunit bluetooth also, not only to autokit's box bluetooth (you connect to box BT for wireless)
Doing this allows for all audio to go through headunit's bluetooth which is basically lag-free.
So my setup is like this:
Wired: phone is connected by USB to dongle, and by BT to unitWireless: phone connects to box BT then to box WiFi for Carplay, and meanwhile also connects to head unit's BT for audio.
Advantages:
- No more lag when switching music or making calls, even in wireless carplay mode
- When the unit detects a call, it might do something smart that you want. Mine has a different volume for in-call, so I can now have louder phone calls without manually changing volume
- Since the phone is playing music over the BT connection, the unit is now aware that music is playing and knows artist and track name and it might display it somewhere, maybe have an overlay when changing tracks. Might be nice if you switch outside Carplay to some other screen/app on the unit.
- No more lag
- If unit has proper echo cancellation, it should work better, as BT is better controlled by the unit, unlike Carplay solutions which can have various delays that the unit cannot counter easily.
- If you were using built-in Carplay before (like I was), you wouldn't be able to use wireless Carplay and have internet from a hotspot, since unit's wifi was busy. If you switch to using Carlinkit dongle with Autokit, you free up unit's wifi and can now use a hotspot.
- Did I mention no more lag?
Disadvantages:
- Seems to use more battery when in wireless carplay mode, I think BT is less power efficient. My unit has BT 4.0, if yours has BT 5.0 maybe this would be better.
- This is a minor annoyance, but if your headunit BT is slow to connect to the phone (mine is) and you start playing music as soon as you have Carplay working (or have autoplay enabled), you might have music coming out of the phone speaker(s) for a few seconds, until unit BT connects and music goes to BT.
Beware the following:
- When using BT to listen to music, the volume on the phone matters, so make sure to turn it up to max. This volume level will be saved separately from usual phone volume though, so it's not a problem.
- Latest version of Autokit didn't find box updates for me, so if this option is not in the advanced settings, you might need to revert to an older version and use that to update box, then update app.
- After making this setup and trying to make a call, you might not hear anything, as the phone might use the carplay connection instead of the bluetooth connection. Just switch output from the phone "audio" button, and it seems to remember it for next times.
- Depending on the headunit and the software, when you get a call with this setup, headunit might decide to switch to it's own bluetooth phone app or just show an overlay. If it switches and it bothers you, try to find a solution specific to your unit. If it's an overlay and you want to remove it, what worked for me was going into android settings for app permissions and removing permission to draw over other apps for the unit's bluetooth app.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wait, What??? the only way to remove the 3 second lag from headunit with zlink is by buying a dongle ??? I paid extra for Carplay/Android Auto Headunit.
And the 3 seconds delay is driving me nuts. This happens even without the zlink app open.
The dongle is carlinkit Autokit (CPC200-CCPA)? It is specially made for Android head units.