Related
Okay here's my fun little scenario that I searched for and hadn't come across anyone with the same scenario. Phone was working fine one day and next it would only display a white screen, thought something went wrong with the software. Tried a reset, tried a hard reset, tried a flash started getting some screen showing and then distorting and whiteing out also on startup would get crackled sound. Tried a few more resets and so on. Removed the battery for 3 seconds-20mins-8plus hours still having a problem. Distortion gets worse when pushing the battery in the back it seems and will eventually just go to white screen. Now I had bought a new battery recently and just for kicks threw it in, seemed to eliminate my problems. Except now as I just for kicks again am charging my old battery in the cradle along with the phone and the new battery it seems to be having similar issue although it hasn't been nearly as bad as before. Now I just took the "bad" battery off the charger and it seems to be just fine in the cradle at this moment, nevermind it's flickering again. Is more poor little Hermes on it's death bed, please tell me no. I paid $200 on it being used from a company who only warranties it for 14 days, I am almost at 30 now. I bought an warranty with it being used and all however they wont help me untill I reach 60 days I guess so I may be out of luck for 30 days before I might get it fixed or my money back. Sucks too because I switched to the $40 data plan with AT&T about 5 days ago and now I guess will be paying for something I can't really use. Okay it seems as though with random pressure on the back seems to cause it. I'm leaning towards some sort of a battery contact issue perhaps? What should I do to clean/fix the contacts?
For those that wonder why I just seemed to rant about my broken phone and seemingly figured out the problem on my own and are wondering why I am still posting all of it the answer is simple: To benefit someone else who may be experienceing the same problem or who may read it and have the problem down the road they will know what they should do. That and it's late and I'm tired
the screen issue is known to be caused by the D-pad connector coming undone
Okay I had run into that as a possibility however would that affect the sound to make it crackle? Also in experimenting some more this morning with the "old" battery in place it seems to be much much more sensitive to pressure, almost to the point of holding it in the palm of your hand causes the screen to go nutty and wash out to white screen and come back etc.. However with the new battery in its much more stable and I need to apply more pressure in order for it to reproduce these symptoms. I know you've been a member for longer than me and you also work for AT&T however my gut feeling is something else may be the culprit here. I tried recording a video using my backup phone last night except I couldn't seem to get it uploaded to show what the screen is doing. Oh well I really want use of the phone but I also don't want to void the warranty, namely my extra warranty which I can't file a claim for the next month.
Hello xda community ive got a strange problem that i wish you could help me with, sometimes my HTC Wizard 2.x IPL freezes and the screen goes white with like a 'fading effect' for no reason, its most probably hardware problem right?
same white screen of death here.
I am having the same problem. I have not been able to isolate if it is Flash memory problem, battery or some other hardware problem.
I was having some major problem with my early 2006 version of T-mobile MDA. I had upgraded to the official T-mobile upgrade ROM when it was released a couple of years ago.
The phone started flaking out this spring. at one point I had to buy a new battery and charger because I had discharged the internal battery too far. I've also "jump-started" the battery using a bench power supply to apply a constant current to get it up to speed when I had a dead battery at work.
And, when I busted the USB/power connector, one of the re-work techs soldered it back on after I dissambled the unit.
Anyway, I had been having lock-up problems before the latest dead battery issues, and had wanted to try a new ROM. When the unit did a hard reset of its own, I decided I had nothing to lose. It had been resetting itself several times a day.
I installed Slim Diamond, and enjoyed WM6 greatly. Phone worked more or less fine for more than a month, and then it started failing again. I found myself having to remove the battery to recover, and sometimes keeping the battery out for hours seemed to help. It got so bad it wouldn't even boot to a usable phone before giving me the White Screen of Death.
I managed to get it back to bootloader and re-install diamond. Worked fine getting booted, and I made some calls. then locking up in WSOD again. Blasted a Prodigy ROM onto it. Booted and let it sit connected by USB. Everything seemed fine, downloaded e-mail etc. Then, unplugged and left the house. When I tried to call, everything went fine until the point where the call should have stopped ringing and connected. Then, WSOD.
Is there a non-hardware fix for this, some ROM or tweak?
If it is a hardware fix, what is the likely culprit? I can do SMD work if needed.
Thanks
Whazoo
P.S. I should mention that when the WSOD would strike, the phone locks up completely, and if left like that, the battery gets warm.
excactly what happens to me..btw for some reason i think its battery problem, because i got it off ebay and ive seen other similar problems with bad batteries for some reason..hope someone can help us
phr0z said:
excactly what happens to me..btw for some reason i think its battery problem, because i got it off ebay and ive seen other similar problems with bad batteries for some reason..hope someone can help us
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was thinking that. I had noticed that it failed most often when trying to make a call, something that is power intensive.
I tried something today. I left the SIM out and just used it as a PDA. It seemed to work longer between reboots. However, it still rebooted while connected to a USB power source. Also, it seemed to not want to charge at times.
Even more interesting is this thread which may be related.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=444256
The excessive battery usage seems to fit with what I am getting. I wonder if something has been triggered which causes the system to drain th battery quickly, and lead to low-voltage conditions.
I am having the same problem, sometimes the screen is filled with vertical lines and then fades to white. Only thing that helps is sliding out the keyboard. I think this is due to the faulty flex cable that connects the motherboard and the screen. I have ran some tests when my device was disasembled (but powered on). The screen was working fine, even when i was bending and streching the flex cable, but after asembling it back again, screen glithes continued. I've then reinforced the flex cable connector on the mobo with some rubber pads and electrical tape, and this seems to be almost working (screen jerks only happen 2-4 times a week)As Whazoo pointed out, those screen jerks used to appear more often during power intensive tasks, like receiving a call. Probably this is due to the loose cable connection. Less power than needed is flowing through the circuits and this causes the sreen to "crash".
BTW I have T-Mobile MDA
I have the same issue with my xda mini s and have been contemplating disassembling my phone for a closer look.
It is difficult to take these phones apart ?
Cheers
TT
I've had the same issues. I suspect faulty hardware. Do you guys experience "dancing" pixels short before a WSOD? Those dancing pixels can be overcome when applying sufficient pressure to the bottom of the phone. I personally suspect a worn flatcable between motherboard en LCD unit which fails to make a solid connection between both. I have to mention that I too have jump started a "dead" battery once. WSOD problems started occurring several moths after. I doubt it is linked.
Currently, the phone is stuck in bootloader, being unable to flash a new ROM on to it since it keeps on rebooting itself every few seconds to minutes. I guess it is a total loss. The phone lasted only a few months when the stylus started to drop out and it took only 16 months before the dreaded WSOD started. At first only a couple of times a week while increasing after a few weeks. I recon a motherboard transplant could fix the problem.
Hi,
got the same problem. And i have also "dancing" pixels, the screen seems to "flicker"
oh dear!
I'l have to see if this is a simple flex cable issue. Of course I had just convinced the wife the MDA I have was a hopeless case. I replaced it this week with an 8925 off eBay that I unlocked and flashed to the HTC WWE for Kaiser. BTW, the Kaiser/8925 is a nice upgrade. So, I'll take apart the old phone and see if I can get it working. If so, I'll keep it for a backup.
One question I have is why does it seem to be related to radio usage and battery drain/short life.
mine begun after changed 2.21.0olip
flashing bluring and reboting.
i´m trying find a original rom to see if fix it...
after i upgrade to wm6 the old one (wm5) that was corrupted and missing files its draining the battery in few minutes.......
----------------------------------------- xx ------------------------------- xx --------------------------------------
7 days trying fix it....
My friend was think a batery problem... He buyed a new one and used the original rom on that. The defect not desapear. The screen still blur, flashing, and the batery begin to warm up to fast, one day the batery was near blow... the batery was too fat, like a pig near christmas!
He give me the Wiza200, I find a used batery, thats work for 4 days and begin to warm up, the celular was draining to fast, and the batery warm up to fasssssst tooo. after 2 days its just no signal...
Take of batery, wait 50 minutes on charging. Turning on, reboot, reboot, reboot, reset, then it begin to be normal, after 5 minutes, no signal, and flashing and bluring the screen and itelf reboot and lock on boot screen... Anoyed i used a ATX pc power suply direct on + and - contacts, soldered some capacitors on main board and same problem. Its draining near 500ma... with sim card its work fine. i can use the games for near 20 minutes, no blur screen just reseting. I take voltages near the processor and radio and sim card suply its almost stable... variation of 10mVolts - 50mVolt... I changed the capacitors for new ones... The mobile begin to be more estable, but bluring and rebooting when put the sim card, reseting near 4 - 5 times on windows... and be estable again... but no signal.
I made a full rom backup, radio etc... tryed to change ROM... nothing change, then I tryied change radio... used the hardcpl.... sucefull changed the radio and the the ipl and cpl.... puff its just reseting and reseting again... Just dont reseting when on it was on bot block screen. I lose time searching a original ROM... My friend send me last rom used... all software back to original and the problem.... Damn...
This device was used near a beach for 2 years...
Unescrewed, again open the case... lift the shields.... clean... clean and clean... this device stoped to reboot, but no signal... wi fi useful, windows ok... used it for 2 days with no problem... when its locked up, and i reset it... Damn dont turn on, just on boot screen, and blur and flash screen and reboot itself near 3 seconds...
I lose my mind. I dissasembled all, put all things on water and a little of a soap, washed all device... for 30 minutes.
warm up all device for 40 celcius for 40 minutes and reasembled... Nothing... warm up with 40 celcius for more 30 minutes...
Wow. its turn on again......!!!! And COOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOlllll no more drain the batery!!!!!! Excelent signal and im using the fone! 40 minutes and its normal... y go to street, receive some calls and its alive!!!!
Resume: 90% of hardare celular problems is sweat of hands, just need clean.
I hope help someone with it
Same prob a year ago.
I had the same problem a year ago. Sorry to say I never found a solution. I ended up buying another used one from eBay. ROMs won't help I flash my phones a lot looking for the perfect combination. I think you are on the right track with the connector between the display and MB. I think it has to do with condensation and heat. Explains why heavier powered use causes the problem. The more battery drain, the more internal heat. When I finally gave up on mine, It wouldn't boot anymore. Actually it does boot and everything is working. I've even received calls with the screen white. I picked it up a couple months ago, tinkering with it. I put a fresh battery in and it booted up and lasted about 10 min. I was excited for a while thinking time had fixed it. Bummer. Good luck. I hope you find your solution.
i've been experiencing vertical lines & flicker with my tmobile mda especially within the submenus. found out that by lowering the overclock (omapclock) to a value near its default clock speed, the problems disappear. i'm guessing it might be related to overclocking my gadget.
Looking at the results of the xda-developers pool I decided to get an XPeria as it clearly out shined all other phones. I got X1i this Saturday and was shocked about the poor signal strength. I was so looking forward to using this phone and keeping it but was more inclined in sending it back. Now after a couple of days just browsing the developers site which I am used to as I had an artemis before this. I see this was not the last of the problems. There have been mentions of overheating and GPS lag as well as the WIFI being rubbish. I have found the following problems
1. Signals fluctuating and mostly no service when in hand even in some good reception areas. Normally on H when in the carry case but switches to G as soon as held in hand.
2. GPS is frustrating. My artemis used to lock within seconds while having an upto date ephermis file. But even with AGPS and recently downloaded ephermis file, I had to wait over a minute to move off. It locked and then it lost and then it locked again(This was when it was in my hand). Once locked it was stable. It was on Google maps by the way.
Right for these, I have found a temporary solution and we have to work on it to make it a standard solution for all X1. Apparently the signals definitely fluctuate when you touch the lower metallic part on the back which has SE logo on it . The opinion on the forums here is that it may block the signal. I think otherwise as I have covered that area without touching the panel with my hand and there has been no signal drop but as soon as you have the slightest bit of flesh on that area the signal drops at least two bars. This led me to believe that there is an electric conduction or possibly u earth the antennas as they seem to be touching that panel from inside as it has been pointed out before.
So simple test was to put a cling film on that part and then test so I did and walah!! There was no signal drop and it worked flawlessly. I think it’s the same problem with GPS as well.
Now I couldn’t carry on using my phone half mummified. I had to take the cling film off. This is possibly the solution to everyone’s problem but I need someone to suggest either a plastic cover for that area or some sort of coating which does not conduct electricity. I think that will definitely sort the problem.
I think you've got a faulty X1 there mate..
Can you take it back to a store and compare it against another one?
The signal is weak on this compared to some other devices, (it's not as bad as the vario though), however I've never noticed a drop in signal by holding it, so I suspect somethings awry with the one you've got..
GPS signal is very very good with the later radios, what version have you got?
I get a lock within 2 seconds (8 seconds from hard reset or flashed a new rom), and it's very very accurate when it does lock.
My GPS works very well (better than htc cruise) also with previous radio.
So I think you have a fault X1, like say by fards.
I'm with Fards on this, I don't get issues when holding the phone and GPS is snappy.
crabby
Thanks guys. I know it has been discussed a million times before but I have compared the phone with other XPerias and it is the same. There are atleast 4 threads pointing out the same. My X1 would have better signals than my artemis as long as i dont touch the back base. Have you all got silver X1is? If so then can you check if you touch the back panel which i mentioned, if there is any fluctuation in the signals(its not instant it takes about 10 seconds for the phone to show the loss of signals).
I have updated radio to 55 and tried the two new stock roms which are R2A for O2 and 010 generic. The phone still looses signals but not completely when i touch the back panel.
About GPS, it does get a lock very quickly but looses it for a short while when i touch the back.
Anyway if someone else comes accross the same problem then please write here as I am sure there is a solution to be found. I was looking at the following
Clear coating
Antistatic spray coating
I must have missed those threads then.
I have a black x1, and definitely don't get any of those issues.
gps is steady and strong.. monitoring it now... as I type. 6 birds locked standing next to window in house hdop 0.6m which I think is very very good
gsm signal on 2 bars and steady
I had the same issue just once. And even when X1 was in the Brodit car holder.
In my case the soft reset was sufficient to solve the problem. But I guess that you already did that.
fards and pelriog? did you experience any fluctuation when touching the panel?
These are the links to threads
Thread1
Thread2
Thread3
Thread4
Same here, touch back panel, hold for 10 secs and signal drops 1 bar. Currently on 3G network, going from 2 bars to 1.
(And yes, my W810i gets a way better signal in low coverage areas. However, usually not a problem, since I hardly encounter Vodafone low coverage areas in The Netherlands).
Tested 5 times. Dutch Vodafone X1i, R2 stock ROM & stock radio.
Ok I did the touch the panel thing and my bars increased by one... hmmm perhaps there is another faulty batch out there as I get great signal (touch wood) and my gps is very responsive and accurate...
Silver X1 here.. Been touching it up for about 15 mins now
It does seem to drop by 1 bar when touched, but also drops if i just put my hand really close to the back without actually touching. hmm..
what concerns me more is how it just drops the whole line randomly and gives an x then has to search again. Lost a good few calls from that..
well here ive got no problem at all with signal.
But GPS does suck even though most people everywhere say X1 GPS is awesome.maybe it is just my zone/country.. could that be possible?
uhm.. of course not, their satellytes afetr all.
I have disassembled my X1 myself and found that under lower part of backside (piece that have SE logo) is an antenna of some kind.
The antenna is a thick circuit that ran on top of another piece of plastic that cover the loud speaker.
The circuit only have 2 contacts to the main PCB.
My guess is that the reception site of either GSM or GPS is on that part.(may be bluetooth or WiFi too, but I think that's not it)
I wonder what SE/HTC engineer is thinking, putting antenna on this part of the phone! (covered with my hand everytime I use it!)
The solution is "use bluetooth headset" and "hold your phone upside down" and you will be fine.
Yeah, mine loses a bar when touching the metal case at the back, I've not lost any calls (that I know of) because of this though.
I had a look under the speaker section myself last week, and can confirm the antenna circuit over the speaker section. Underneath there's also what looks like a tiny external antenna socket... we could mod our experias to have a rubber duck aerial? Who's up for walkie talkie lookalike xperia?
lol @ walkie talki and upside down. I think the designers have done a very poor job as far as the antenna location is concerned.
Tumpin does your phone loose all signals when in your hand?
Taking this seriously as suggested in my first post has anyone tried putting a cling film on or to that matter anything to cover that area and holding the phone. I did it with the cling film and there was no drop in the signal. So i think it is just a matter of us using some kind of invisible coating or cover on that area so there is no static conductivity. Look at post #5
I would appreciate if everyone gives there suggestions as well how to deal with it. For the people who took the phone apart you could have put something on the inner side to block the static discharge.
I returned my xperia for the second time for signal problems. The problems started after it was repaired for the crack in my case. After that the signal was very poor. GPS was not working in 90%. I wait for 15 minutes for signal, but the only thing that happend was heating the battery. Also HSDPA have a weak signal. In most times I only can use GPRS. The first time I returned the phone for this problem nothing changed. And this time I had a new crack in my case, so I hope they send me a new one!
Im using a X1a and I find its GSM/3G reception is really poor, I already upgraded the radio to the latest but its still the same poor poor reception. Specially when Im using the metal case I frequently get drop calls on my device
kanthai said:
I have disassembled my X1 myself and found that under lower part of backside (piece that have SE logo) is an antenna of some kind.
The antenna is a thick circuit that ran on top of another piece of plastic that cover the loud speaker.
The circuit only have 2 contacts to the main PCB.....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just curious! Any chance that you see what for are the two metal plates contacts from the metal cover of the phone? Those near the SE logo. These two and the other two towards the camera are there for... what? The metal cover is used for something as when you rig in the phone and all four contacts are "online" but what for? Thanks!
I have a black X1i and noticed that reception increased when using it with the keyboard opened in horizontal position.
Same here, I tought it was because I open my metal case that is why reception goes up.
stevencyc said:
I have a black X1i and noticed that reception increased when using it with the keyboard opened in horizontal position.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
First off, I want to say that Plato56 was the first person to try this, and I want to give all credit where credit is due. Several others have applied this method, including myself, with great results. I apologize for not knowing everyone and I apologize if any of this is not clear. Please let me know and I will clarify the best I can and update this original post.
Ok, the other thread found here is close but the wrong contacts are circled. I've uploaded several pics to reference as you read through this post. The first pic has the correct contacts circled. The contacts circled in the other thread are for the cellular radio.
So What's The Deal With The GPS on my SGS!?
Essentially, the problem is two fold.
Problem #1: Samsung has no clue how to put out decent firmware.
Problem #2: The copper contact that Samsung chose to connect the GPS Receiver to the GPS Antenna is about the crappiest selection they could have possibly made.
THE PURPOSE OF THIS THREAD IS TO ADDRESS PROBLEM #2. If we address and solve one then we can (hopefully) tackle the other effectively one day. Here is a technical, but relatively easy to understand explanation of why Firmware alone can't fix the GPS problems that plague ALL SGS phones (even if your GPS is "fine" it still has weak SNR Numbers)
Explanation (Courtesy of T313C0mun1s7):
Q) Is it hardware?
A) It's complicated. We are talking about very high frequency RF here, you gotta understand how electricity acts when you reach these frequencies to fully get this, but I will summarize. At zero hertz or DC current electricity flows through the body or center of the conductor. As long as you have enough conductor to carry the required current you are good. So the type of spring contact they used is fine for DC, in fact I went looking for replacement contacts and the only thing I can find are designed for either battery tabs or for grounding contacts. As you go higher in frequency the AC current of electricity takes on what we call skin effect, it travels as waves around the surface of the conductor. For this reason large diameter, low loss coax usually has a hollow center conductor. It make no difference electrically and makes it more flexible, lighter, and less expensive because it saves copper. Connections have to be solid and shielded because the RF can "leak", noise can be introduced, and the conductor should be tuned to the frequency carried. In short, these spring connectors are about as bad a connection as you could have picked. It is not enough that they touch the pad, you need good solid contact for a good transfer with the skin effect and to minimize loss. It seems that this problem is exasperated by poor contact. This fix it to simply improve the contact by increasing the pressure and hope to minimize the ill effects of this poor choice of contact design. To complicate things there are in fact things that can be done in software to improve the situation - this made trouble shooting harder because people tend to see these things as black and white and therefore either hardware OR software. If you want to know how software can affect this, then you will need to read back through the thread as I have already explained it twice and this answer is already too long.
Q) Should I ever expect a fix?
A) Read the OP. It was "fixed" (ie they improved the connection, but they did not re-engineer a proper fix) already. It seems if it was made in September there is a good chance it is ok or marginal. If it was made (or possibly re-manufactured?) in October it seems they are at least as good as the fix we are applying in this thread. Either they are using better contacts or they are increasing the angle to apply more pressure.
Q) Will T-mobile replace it?
A) They recognize the problem. This is what the app Samsung released is for. It resets everything to the stock settings (and nothing else). If you use it and can show unacceptable performance with the GPS (via the measurements the app makes - it is the official guide replacement), then they should replace the phone for you without any fight.
Now that you know why you should consider applying the hardware fix to your SGS, read on to determine if it may actually help your situation. I.E. does your unit's manufacture date and/or modem make this modification worth your time?
Prerequisites (Courtesy of T313C0mun1s7)
If you don't yet have at least JI6 then you need to be at least at that modem level FIRST. If you are already using the JI6 (or newer) modem and your GPS still sucks AND your phone was manufactured prior to October, then try this. Otherwise don't expect results. To determine your manufacture date, look on the box. If you no longer have the box, then look under the battery. The middle line has the serial number marked with a S/N. To the right of that will be a set of numbers with a period in the middle. It is month and year in European format, so 10.09 would be September of 2010.
To summarize:
* Phone made in October 2010 or after - this should not be needed
* You have not upgraded to at LEAST JI6 - then do that FIRST
Steps To Apply The Hardware Fix:
NOTE THAT THIS TECHNICALLY VOIDS YOUR WARRANTY especially if you choose the alternate method that involves a soldering iron
However, there is nothing noted on the phone that says if you remove this or go beyond that your warranty is voided.
Also, as goes without saying, don't blame me if you snap your GPS Antenna Contact off, break your plastics, or lose the ability to procreate!!!
* Turn off your GPS and shut down.
* Remove the back of your SGS and take out your battery, SIM Card and MicroSD Card.
* Remove the 7 screws that hold the back plastics. All you need is a Philips Head screwdriver from any jeweler's kit or glasses repair kit (you can get one from CVS/Wal-Mart, etc). Here is a video that shows you how to open up your phone. Take your time with this. I know it seems unsettling at first, but everything will be OK as long as you take your time and use a little common sense!
Be sure to watch for three small things after you get the back off. If you aren't careful, all three will sprout legs and run away :
1) Volume Rocker
2) Power Rocker
3) A little round plastic circle next to the lower right of your SIM Card slot that may fall out
* Refer to the 3rd and 4th pictures I uploaded (courtesy of androidmonkey). These photos depict the CORRECT CONTACT to gently bend up. The 4th photo depicts the position your contact should be in. You'll probably find that yours is laying flatter and thus isn't making contact with the GPS Antenna (which is on the plastic backing that you removed). As I said a second ago, gently bend this contact up. I used a flathead screwdriver from a glasses repair kit. It doesn't take much bend this contact. I started from the side that the fourth photo depicts. After I got the contact up a bit, I moved my screwdriver over 90* where the hump is and pried a little more. That's it! It's really simple. Just don't go happy with your bending. I have no experience replacing a snapped piece of copper so I can't be of any help if you destroy yours.
* Button everything back up. The back plastic will pop back in 10000% easier than it came off. Put the screws back in, pop your SIM and MicroSD back in and your battery. When you boot back up, you might wanna clear your GPS settings just for the heck of it. I did. DO NOT be shocked if it takes a few minutes to get a lock. It's probably the first time your SGS has ever had a real chance at a lock. Subsequent locks (Hot and Cold Start) will be faster.
* Boot up, leave your GPS off. Just because it can't hurt, clear your GPS settings. Here's how:
1) Download this app http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=775154
You can find it by searching for "sgstools" in the market. Click on Secret Codes then Lbstestmode. At the bottom you'll see "Delete GPS Data". Just click that!
OR
2) Open your dialer and hit *#*#1472365#*#*
Click "Delete GPS Data".
* Turn your GPS on. Wait for a lock! If you want to know what's going on, download two apps:
"GPS Status & Toolbox" by EclipSim
and
"GPS Test" by Chartcross Limited
That's it!
ALTERNATE METHOD - ADDING SOLDER TO YOUR GPS CONTACT
*WARNING* As I mentioned earlier IF YOU CHOOSE THIS METHOD THERE IS ZERO CHANCE OF YOUR PHONE REMAINING UNDER WARRANTY *WARNING*
If you feel inclined to modify your phone in a much more permanent way, you can opt to add some solder on top of the contact (no need to bend the contact up, in fact, don't). I attached a zip with some pics that show what two posters, regp and Mannymal did. I've soldered a few things in the past, but I'm by no means an expert. If you choose to do this, a few things to remember.
* First, seriously consider avoiding this if you have no experience with a soldering iron. In what I've seen on a limited base, you'll get minimal SNR gain in return for the effort that goes into this. I can't emphasis this enough.
* There are probably a 100 tutorials on how to solder floating around on YouTube, watch them (all).
* The absolute largest diameter solder I would use is .022.
* Find the smallest tip possible.
* Heat the CONTACT with your soldering iron, not your solder, or you will create what is called a cold solder joint that will probably lead to your GPS not working at all on down the road. You have to get the contact hot enough to receive the solder, which is touched to the part (in our case, the contact) that you want to apply the solder to.
* Be careful not to make your solder to high. I suggest looking at the photo that shows the angle of the contact after it's been raised and using that as your benchmark. We want to make contact with the GPS Antenna, not break the thing when we snap the back plastic on.
* If you end up with two much solder you can either clean the tip of your soldering iron and touch the hot tip to the solder to remove some or you can use an emery board to file it down.
* Use an small emery board (nail file essentially) to file down and smooth off your joint. I suggest doing this holding the phone upside down so you don't end up with 1000 tiny solder particles floating around your phone.
* REMEMBER, phones are tiny. These boards are tiny. A soldering iron that is too hot left on ANY board for too long will destroy it. Multiply this rule x10 for delicate parts.
Good luck.
Observable Data Changes
(Grabbed from this thread after several days of playing with this fix).
Accuracy: 16-28 feet stationary 38-50 feet moving (moving accuracy has improved and is now on par with stationary numbers since I started running the Stock JL4 Rom)
Average SNR: 22-35. Obviously you'll always have one or two that are lower and one or two higher. My max I've observed was 42.
Number of Sats Locked/In View: 8/11 most of the time. Yesterday afternoon I was locked on 10/10 with a 22 foot accuracy inside. I've had 11/14 before as well, just depends on the time of day.
Cold Start Lock: 30 seconds
Hot Start Lock: 5-15 seconds
For reference, my Garmin Nuvi is currently connected to 7/10 with a 16-18 foot accuracy and my Vibrant is connected to 7/10 with a 21-25 foot accuracy. (stationary of course)
Unnecessary re-routing: No
Wandering on Google Nav/Lost Signal with Nav: Very rarely. For me it happens when I lose signal which is only if the phone is resting on my jeans. If it's in my cupholder, center console, hand, etc it's fine. Earlier today I lost signal with it in my cupholder but I was traveling in an area where my Garmin Nuvi only had a connection to 5 satellites.
My Tracks: No data from me yet
There are some after screen shots in this post.
Other notes: I'm on the road a lot. Today is my first day to really extensively test it. Basically, it's MUCH better. Is it perfect? No, but I will say that unlike these other fixes that involve changes in lbstestmode and reset apps that only last for a couple of hours at best, my GPS performance has been very consistent ever since I adjusted the antenna contact. Is it as good as my old Blackberries with signal strength? No. How does it compare to other Android devices? I have no clue.
What I do know is that it works well enough for me to be comfortable not having to grab my Nuvi everytime I switch vehicles.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wrap Up
I hope this works for those of you like me that have tried almost every firmware update, tweak, etc. Between this fix and JL4, all I can say is that this device is probably as near to perfect as it'll ever be. I've been running this fix for well over a week and I've experienced no signs of the modified contact losing it's contact with the antenna.
If You Still Have Problems
* Even though you used the Samsung GPS Restore App (Found in the market for Vibrant/Captivate only)
* Even though you deleted GPS Data
* Even though you have your WiFi Off like Plato56 recommends in this post
* Even if you tried a full system wipe
Don't panic if you don't have a ton of locks. Like mentioned above, there is still a firmware component to this issue. I see times where mine doesn't want to lock. Usually if I turn GPS off and then turn it back on it runs smoothly from there on out. Depending on where you live, time of day may make a difference. Inevitably, in the afternoons I may only get 6 of 11 locked on. All other times I can get 9-11 of 11 or 11 of 14, etc. Bear with it. This fix is NOT a silver bullet, but give it a day or two of reasonable playing time to determine if it helped.
For example, right now I'm indoors locked on 7/11 with a 21 foot accuracy and SNR's averaging 31. I used to see 0/3 with SNR's averaging 29. That's a definite improvement. If any other Android was in the same position it would probably show 8/11 with a 10 foot accuracy and SNR's averaging over 65.
So take it for what it's worth, but the fix is DEFINITELY worth the effort!
ADDITIONAL TWEAK
Check out this thread here and read through the OP carefully. A few days ago I flashed "S.gps.zip" and I've had great results with it on Bionix 1.3.1 with the KA7 modem. I didn't see an increase in accuracy, but I did see a HUGE improvement on the speed my GPS locked and the number of birds locked too. I played around with all of the 2.2 modems last night and they all saw improved results.
If you decide to flash one of those zips, I recommend making a Nandroid backup first. In reading through the thread it appears that there are a few people that had their flashes result in broken GPS's. I have no idea why, I'd imagine it's because they didn't clear GPS data and they just think it's broken. I recommend making a backup, shutting off your GPS, booting into CWM, flashing the zip, rebooting, clearing GPS data, turning your GPS on and enjoying locks. And, as always, I recommend using GPS Test by Mike Lockwood to test your GPS every time you make a change.
The Super GPS should work on any ROM on an Vibrant, but it looks like a lot of people have tried it on 2.2 ROMS so be aware that, as always, there's the chance you may brick your device. If it works for you, be sure to thank jellette for his work. As always, I take no responsibility if this messes up your phone. I'm just relaying what worked for me.
UPDATE: 7/31/11
I should have posted this a couple of months ago. I also have a theory about why sometimes this fix fails over time. For example, I run Overstock 2.4.1 and I often flash the S.gps2.zip when I redo my system. It's been a fantastic combo on Bionix 1.3.1, but often, after a few weeks my GPS begins to turn retarded and will eventually no longer lock. In the past I've always believed it's purely because the antenna contacts have started to relax. However, what I've discovered is that when I go back into CWM and reflash my kernel and reflash the GPS zip, everything is happy and perfect again. I'm by no means a hardware genius or a developer. I'm just an average end user that loves to tinker with things and be methodical in testing, but I'm starting to believe that there truly is something going on that corrupts our GPS Drivers over time (in reference back to how we know Samsung screwed the pooch on firmware for the GPS Receiver).
So, that said, before you crack your phone open over and over yanking and bending on contacts, reflash your kernel and the GPS Zip of your choice. And, like I've always said before, if the hardware fix doesn't seem to work for you when it seems to work for others on the same ROM as you, try another kernel, and try it more than once. I still fully believe that every GPS Receiver on every SGS can be made usable. It's not perfect, but it's a strong improvement from not being able to obtain a lock. http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=16026963&postcount=12
Q&A
This thread is getting long so I am creating this Q&A post to answer many of the most common questions.
Due credits go to those that originally asked and answered these questions. Obviously this thread is the result of the efforts of many people.
Q) Is it a hardware issue? Why do different ROMs / Modems effect this?
A) It's complicated. We are talking about very high frequency RF here, you gotta understand how electricity acts when you reach these frequencies to fully get this, but I will summarize. At zero hertz or DC current electricity flows through the body or center of the conductor. As long as you have enough conductor to carry the required current you are good. So the type of spring contact they used is fine for DC, in fact I went looking for replacement contacts and the only thing I can find are designed for either battery tabs or for grounding contacts. As you go higher in frequency the AC current of electricity takes on what we call skin effect, it travels as waves around the surface of the conductor. For this reason large diameter, low loss coax usually has a hollow center conductor. It make no difference electrically and makes it more flexible, lighter, and less expensive because it saves copper. Connections have to be solid and shielded because the RF can "leak", noise can be introduced, and the conductor should be tuned to the frequency carried. In short, these spring connectors are about as bad a connection as you could have picked. It is not enough that they touch the pad, you need good solid contact for a good transfer with the skin effect and to minimize loss. It seems that this problem is exasperated by poor contact. This fix it to simply improve the contact by increasing the pressure and hope to minimize the ill effects of this poor choice of contact design. To complicate things there are in fact things that can be done in software to improve the situation - this made trouble shooting harder because people tend to see these things as black and white and therefore either hardware OR software. If you want to know how software can affect this, then you will need to read back through the thread as I have already explained it twice and this answer is already too long.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Q) Should I try this fix?
A) Only if you can not get your phone replaced under warranty. If you can not and meet the prerequisites in the OP, then you are a good candidate.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Q) How do I update to JI6? In the release notes of the Super_IO kernel, it mentions it has the UVJL1 modem. is this more recent than JI6??
A) Yes, JL1 is more recent than JI6. The nomenclature uses lexicograpical unicode values.
1. Check the first unit. The first unit in JI6 and JL1 are both 'J', so look at the next unit.
2. 'I' in the former, 'L' in the latter. 'L' comes after 'I' in the alphabet, so it's more recent.
3. You can stop here, because you've already determined that JL* is more recent than JI*. Any units that come after this are to distinguish within the L- or I-series.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Q) How do I reset the GPS setting?
A) Open your dialer and hit *#*#1472365#*#* or maybe *#3214789650# (I need clarification on these)
OR
The Samsung GPS Restore app (APK attached to this post)
OR
Since the Feburary 2nd, 2011 Market update you can find it here https://market.android.com/details?id=com.sec.samsung.GpsRestore
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Q) Should we assume that any phone manufactured before 10/10 has these problems?
A) No, I would not think so. Something like this is usually a intermittent manufacturing flaw and would not affect everyone or there would be an even larger outrage about it.
Look at it this way. The spring contacts were designed to make contact without too much pressure when the back is properly in place. GOOD engineering would have accounted for slight variations in manufacturing and quality control and would have made the spring contacts overshoot the required distance a little to assure 100% contact in all situations. In this case I think they forgot to account for that and designed them to just touch, invariably some make intermittent contact and some fall just short of good solid contact (there are prior posts about how poor contact can get worse over time due to oxidation and arcing), but at least we have no reports of totally non-working GPS where they would have failed to touch outright. Chances are when October came around one of two things happened.
They decided to fix the issue and reenginerred the design to make better contact
The manufacturer ran out of the old contacts the the new shipment just work better
Either way, although this is a common issue, I don't see the evidence that it affected all pre-October phones.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Q) Any hints on how to get the back off after removing the screws? I watched the YouTube video, but I'm not having any luck with my normal sized fingernails.
A) It is very stubborn, the most important tool you have is patience. Just take your time. If you really need more than just you fingers here are some other options.
Set of Safe Open Pry Tools - http://www.repairsuniverse.com/prytools.html
Thinner than credit card type cards such as a Bi-Mart membership card, plastic business cards that are 1/2 thickness of a credit card, laminated ID badge, old Subway rewards card.
Guitar Pick
The plastic from a clear "clam shell" type package that everything seems to come in now. You know, the ones that seem impossible to open.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Q) CRAP!!! I BROKE MY TAB (This question covers Soldering)
A) Relax, take three deep breaths, all is not lost.
What you want to do is replace the tab with a small mound of solder to bridge the space between the boards and create a contact so the two pads touch. You want a decent amount of surface to touch and you want it flat for the best contact. You need the mound smooth and round because you are working with high frequency signals. Follow the instructions below carefully. If you need more details they are in this thread.
1) If you are experienced in soldering most will be second nature to you except for the fact that you are not actually soldering anything to anything, you are just making a mound on a pad. If you are not experienced then the first step is to WATCH THESE VIDEOS (A) and (B) then PRACTICE until you are proficient in the basics of heating, soldering, and removing the iron cleanly leaving a good joint.
2) Read this comic book (trust me) --> http://mightyohm.com/files/soldercomic/FullSolderComic_20110409.pdf
3) Now if you are confident that you are ready to actually touch a hot soldering iron to the inside of your phone lets continue.
De-solder the old broken contact from the pad using the soldering iron and either some wick or a solder-sucker (you can also use a cheap rubber bulb, but they rarely work well)
Use the soldering iron and wick or solder-sucker to remove any remaining solder from the pad. It can still be silver, but should be flat.
Realizing that you will remove a little solder with the iron when you pull it away, make a small, smooth, shiny, and round mound of solder on the lower pad just a little taller then you need for good contact.
It is important in this step to not leave any metal filing behind on the board or it might short something out. So do this step holding the phone upside-down so they fall away. File the top of the mound with an emery board so you have a flat spot parallel with the pad. Don't file too much at first.
Check the height of the mound by puting the top board back on. If needed file a little more and recheck. Go slow, don't try to take too much off at once. When the hight is right it should just barely be too tall. You want good solid contact, but you do not want the board to be stressed or bend.
If all looks good check again for hidden shavings and blow it off real good just to make sure.
If you mess up at any point just de-solder the pad and try again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Q) What are people's setting in LBSTestMode?
A) Factory Defaults - an earlier question covered how to get back there
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Q) Will this work with the GT-I9000 or the Captivate?
A) Most likely, yes. We have even had some people with those phones report back with positive results.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Q) I did this hardware fix, but I am still losing locks. Now what?
A) Here is what the OFA (Original Fix Artist) Plato56 has to say:
1. Before anything else, make shure your WiFI radio is OFF. I dont mean not connected, I don't mean out of range, I mean hardware swiched off threw your settings or via the drop down status bar.
2. Use the Samsung GPS restore to get you LBS settings to default.
3. Update your modem to one of the 2.2 versions. Im particularly happy with JL4 modem myself
4. Learn to use ODIN!!!! Use this to reload your firmware of choice. Prior to flashing you favorate ROM, Always flash back to JDF (BONE STOCK FIRMWARE).
5. If you dont know what im talking about in 4, then go to the developers section and read, read, read.
6. If you have any other questions refer to sujection 1 first, then ask. Honistly, alot of people have put some work into verifing if this fix works and testing with various software, the least you can do is read this body of work and you just might end up with a working GPS.
7. My last tip of the day. Be patent with your first locks, the GPS does improve the more data it collects. This also means dont delete your GPS data unless you changed modems or are having real lock and or accuracy issues
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Q) Does this fix drift?
A) There have been a couple that have mentioned that it does fix the drift, but I think there may have been others that say they get better locks but still get some drift. I do believe though that everyone who has done the driving test with it has reported that it tracks better now and actually shows them on the correct roads, where before it didn't.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Q) What are the other contacts?
A) Opposite side is Wi-Fi, bottom is cellular.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Q) OK, so I can bend it up, or replace it with a bit of solder. Is that all?
A) Of course not. Some like to stick a little piece of plastic under the tab rather than try to bend it. Just a little sliver about as wide as the contact cut off a credit card should work. Your Mileage may vary, in my mind if you drop the phone that plastic is gonna be floating around in there somewhere.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Q) So inside I see. . .
A) Stop! go outside. GPS was not designed to help you get from your bathroom to your kitchen. GPS signals are low power signals that have to travel all the way from an orbital satellite. Low frequencies penetrate well, and bend around objects, but they require a lot of power to transmit over distance. High frequencies travel much further with less power and remains in a fairly strait line, but it does not penetrate very well. Guess what GPS uses. So don't make it try to penetrate your roof.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Q) So there are two apps listed to test GPS and . . .
A) I've noticed a big difference between the two apps called "GPS Test". Try using the one written by Mike Lockwood (he's on the Google GPS team).
http://www.androlib.com/android.appl...stest-qjx.aspx
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
AND FINALLY
Q) What does tonight taste like?
A) Tonight tastes like chinese food and whiskey with coconut water
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A final note about satellites and tracking said hunks of orbital equipment
I have noticed a lot of people are wanting to compare signal levels. This is fine on a superficial level, and there should be some level of consistency as long as you live on roughly the same latitude as the person you are comparing with. As Einstein said - everything is relative. With that in mind I thought I would share a post I made in another thread. There is cool stuff in here - so check it out.
T313C0mun1s7 said:
Another thing that you have to realize is that the satellites themselves are a variable. The only way to make a satellite stationary is to put it into orbit directly on the equator, falling at the exact same rate the earth spins, and in the same direction. Even at that there is still a little wobble in a figure 8 pattern.
So GPS sats are anything but stationary, but they are flying at great speeds overhead coming in and out of view by their own rite at any time. At the speeds they fly the distances to you change by the mile rather quickly. So it should be no surprise that doing your testing repeatedly will never yield the same results twice. There are also a lot of other factors involved as well.
The point is that you are now getting very acceptable and usable results from your GPS consistently, even if you never get anything as great as your first time. Maybe you will get those strong of signals again, but even if you don't you seems to be an par with what the majority of people have reported so far.
FYI - If you would like to see some real time tracking of GPS sats that you should be able to see (THIS IS REALLY COOL) go to http://www.n2yo.com and click the GPS link at the top of the page. It will load a page of sats that are visible from your location. Click the select all box and then click the track selected satellites button. It will load a world map with the orbital paths of the sats, then the sats themselves. You can watch them move and even select them for more information on each satellite. This is not limited to GPS satellites if you want to keep playing with it. The point is that if you watch it for a little bit you can see pretty quickly as they move relative to the world map they are on just how many miles (or kilos) they cover in a fairly short time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great Post
I have been looking for this information everywhere. I cannot wait until I try this. Thank you^^
How do I update to JI6? i'm running Macnut 14 rom with the Super_IO kernel.
In the release notes of the Super_IO kernel, it mentions it has the UVJL1 modem. is this more recent than JI6??
This might be a stupid question, but how do you tell the manufacture date of the phone. My box just has a date on it (but doesn't say what that date is for), which is 08/10/2010. Is this it?
salvador3 said:
How do I update to JI6? i'm running Macnut 14 rom with the Super_IO kernel.
In the release notes of the Super_IO kernel, it mentions it has the UVJL1 modem. is this more recent than JI6??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, JL1 is more recent than JI6. The nomenclature uses lexicograpical unicode values.
1. Check the first unit. The first unit in JI6 and JL1 are both 'J', so look at the next unit.
2. 'I' in the former, 'L' in the latter. 'L' comes after 'I' in the alphabet, so it's more recent.
3. You can stop here, because you've already determined that JL* is more recent than JI*. Any units that come after this are to distinguish within the L- or I-series.
Just gently bent my piece of metal up. Giving it 10 min to find satellites and will edit this post to report.
EDIT: HOLY CRAPOLA! In the time it took me to write this post, I got 11 satellites on a cold start, MS based, with supl.google.com. I'm going to keep it on hot start now that it's got some locks. I've never run a GPS test at my current location (indoors too!), but I usually got 1 or 2 about 30 miles south of here (outdoors). I can't verify that it's the alteration that helped, but my GPS is definitely better now. Much thanks to OP.
RE-EDIT: Huh, this is weird. I tried to exit out of app but it froze. Waited a minute and it exited out, but without the expected transition animation. Tried to open it again, but the GPS icon in the notification bar wasn't flashing so I rebooted. Now I don't get any satellites with the same settings as before. A couple reboots later, everything is going according to plan.
salvador3 said:
How do I update to JI6? i'm running Macnut 14 rom with the Super_IO kernel.
In the release notes of the Super_IO kernel, it mentions it has the UVJL1 modem. is this more recent than JI6??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If ur running a 2.2 ROM u are past JI6....
Sent from my Vibrant w/ Onyx 4.2 Overkill.....
Hung0702 said:
RE-EDIT: Huh, this is weird. I tried to exit out of app but it froze. Waited a minute and it exited out, but without the expected transition animation. Tried to open it again, but the GPS icon in the notification bar wasn't flashing so I rebooted. Now I don't get any satellites with the same settings as before.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, relax, I found that this is not that unusual depending on what ROM / Modem and settings your using. It happend to me with JK2 stock and and stock modem. If your running one of the 2.2 builds update your modem to JL4 or JL1. Also i have found that reseting the GPS data can help after you change modems. Before geting into the unit again, i would recoment clearing your gps data and reverting to STOCK gps setings. MS mode does in some cases make locks look faster, but a weak network connect can cause problems. This is actualy why, i think, that Samsung is using standalone mode as it saves the bird info better. Im not shure about this but for me STOCK GPS SETTINGS WORK!!! Try them before opening up the phone a 2nd time.
As long as you've done the mod correctly and have good contact, you should be in better shape. There is the possablity that you did not bend the contact high enough and it settled back in. DONT OVER BEND but maby just a hair more. Also, dont forget to clean the contacts with a mild solvent as a weak contact will cause oxidation . I use a q-tip and alcohol. Dont use tunner cleaner, i tried this and being non conductinve, i had a problem at for a bit.
Remember, this is also a software issue so dont panic if you do the mod, get good results and then things change. Here is my curent configuration for reference.
Macnut 13
JL4 modem
STOCK GPS SETTINGS
Rom was loaded from a CLEAN Oden version of JFD with eveything formated etc..
Im locking with 8-11 birds out of 13 visable in under 15 seconds with accuracy that under 20ft standing still and 25-35 in a moving car. There are times that things will get a bit worse, but by compairing those times to my Garmin, I beleave this a result of the GPS network or other enviromental issues. I DO have "use wireless networks" as it seams to reduce GPS wander on the JL1 modem , at least in my area. Without it on I get an occational jump but it always finds it way back to good in a very short time. It up to you if you want to use it, its not nessasay, but sometimes helps.
To everyone who might suggest that I'm just one of the lucky one.. When I got this phone, I could not lock on ANYTHING. I could see a few birds, hit some sometimes, get a lock after 5 minutes and lose after the phone went into lock mode etc... you know, all the problems that eveyone else has. Now with the contact mod and updated modems, the results are better than an iPhone and rival my Garmin stand alone GPS.
salvador3 said:
How do I update to JI6? i'm running Macnut 14 rom with the Super_IO kernel.
In the release notes of the Super_IO kernel, it mentions it has the UVJL1 modem. is this more recent than JI6??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your fine, your current config is good, My advice, just update to the JL4 modem.
How do I reset the GPS setting?
Stick Thread!
How do I reset the GPS setting?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The most dummy proof way (not that your dumb, I just like simple solutions) is to download this app http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=775154
Click on Secret Codes then Lbstestmode. At the bottom you'll see "gps reset". Just click that!
Or open your dialer and hit *#*#1472365#*#*
Sent from my SGH-T959 using Tapatalk
wow holy crap this fix worked. i live in apartments and after i did this, it locked on to sats for the FIRST time EVER within 30 secs. im amazed this actually worked lol.
so should we assume that any phone manufactured before those dates has these problems?
mine was manufactured before the date, but now that im on 2.2 i usually get a lock on 7 or 8/12 Sats....
but when using google Nav, i get several re-routes and lost signals...
so im not sure if this would help me??
Any hints on how to get the back off after removing the screws? I watched the YouTube video, but I'm not having any luck with my normal sized fingernails.
kboater said:
so should we assume that any phone manufactured before those dates has these problems?
mine was manufactured before the date, but now that im on 2.2 i usually get a lock on 7 or 8/12 Sats....
but when using google Nav, i get several re-routes and lost signals...
so im not sure if this would help me??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got my phone in late July and my GPS performance matches exactly what the OP describes AFTER he did the fix. My phone is pure stock JI6, with no HW mods. So, it doesn't seem valid to assume all pre-October phones have the problem.
Confirmed works... Thanks to all.
- All screen shots were taken from the same indoors location. Phone was sitting in a window.
- There are two before and two after screen shots. They represent the range of results.
- I'm running Macnut R14 with JL4
Before
After
Try this
JD - You might need to go online and order an actual case pry tool. They're usually included in disassembly kits for iPhones etc. Maybe try a guitar pick??
Sent from my SGH-T959 using Tapatalk
kboater said:
so should we assume that any phone manufactured before those dates has these problems?
mine was manufactured before the date, but now that im on 2.2 i usually get a lock on 7 or 8/12 Sats....
but when using google Nav, i get several re-routes and lost signals...
so im not sure if this would help me??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, I would not think so. Something like this is usually a intermittent manufacturing flaw and would not affect everyone or there would be an even larger outrage about it.
Look at it this way. The spring contacts were designed to make contact without too much pressure when the back is properly in place. GOOD engineering would have accounted for slight variations in manufacturing and quality control and would have made the spring contacts overshoot the required distance a little to assure 100% contact in all situations. In this case I think they forgot to account for that and designed them to just touch, invariably some make intermittent contact and some fall just short of good solid contact (there are prior posts about how poor contact can get worse over time due to oxidation and arcing), but at least we have no reports of totally non-working GPS where they would have failed to touch outright. Chances are when October came around one of two things happened.
They decided to fix the issue and reenginerred the design to make better contact
The manufacturer ran out of the old contacts the the new shipment just work better
Either way, although this is a common issue, I don't see the evidence that it affected all pre-October phones.
I'll post screenshots later today. For now I can definitevly confirm that this fix improves gps signal levels and performance.
Sent from my SGH-T959 using XDA App
Hey there guys, i currently have an issue with my recently purchased G2. Whenever i have the keyboard out holding vertically, i noticed my wifi signal started to decrease when i held at a certain position with my left hand. I usually have my left index finger resting on the side of the keyboard (top part of the phone), whenever i am holding it horizontally and i have noticed that the wifi drops considerable when doing so from 3 to 1, indicated by the wifi signal on the phone.
Any of you guys have the same problem? Try covering the top part of the phone or the left side of the phone if its held landscape (the area where t-mobile logo is) and tell me if your wifi strength decreases. Thanks guys!
youtube.com/watch?v=qdj2y9Fx_5o
(sorry won't allow me to post a link since I don't have at least 8 posts!)
Yes I have had issues with wifi whenever I cover the top part of the phone. Either when in landscape mode or hplding it to my head
Sent from my HTC Vision using XDA App
I definitely see this. I don't even bother trying to play Pocket Legends on wifi.
I tried to google where the wifi antenna was, but gave up pretty quick - normally I have good "4g" coverage so I don't keep wifi turned on, even at home.
i dont think this phone even uses antenna's i opened up my phone before and there was nothing that looked like an antenna unless its inside the screen
My signal drops 1 bar by doing that as well. I assume its where the receiver is located
Sent from my SilverBullet "RootedHTCDesireZ"
Easy on the death grip! also get a stronger wifi router, pref an N router. it'll help you.
it's not even that i have my whole hand plastered on the side of the phone, it is just my index finger that is giving me only 1 bar of wifi, even if it is lightly rested..
I kind of noticed this too last night. I was laying on my bed, and replying to a post in a local forum. I typed in my reply using the HW keyboard, then submitted. Then it failed. I noticed that I was not connected via WiFi anymore. I closed the keyboard and changed switched to a different position, then poof, WiFi came back on.
However, I don't completely blame HTC for this, since my Router's signal (WiFi-N too) is not that strong up in up in my bedroom. So I guess the antenna is located somewhere near there, and when signal is not that good, it drops. Not that big of an issue for me though.
Uh... keyboard out and holding it vertically.... why would you ever hold it like this?
I'm guessing he means horizontally. I get the wifi signal to drop when I hold it like this. There is a hole on same cases near the bottom left (when held normally keyboard out) that gets covered by my hand. This seems to be the location of the wifi antenna.
Sorry i mean horizontally haha. I guess this is a common problem not a unit problem. Is there any fix for this? I use wifi whenever im home or work since it is faster but i find myself clicking links and going to web pages without my left hand placed on the phone (held horizontally) in order for the page to load up fast.
I'd understand if i was covering it fully or if my fingers were firmly pressed against it but this thing is just too damn sensitive!!
Finland_2_Cupertino said:
Easy on the death grip! also get a stronger wifi router, pref an N router. it'll help you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Easy? The man can't hold his phone the way it was intended?
While this is an amazing phone, I'm regretting to learn that the radio equipment is pretty ****ty. It's such a disappointment. I have a top of the line router and live near a cell tower and still get poor reception. All my electronics are RF shielded and I live in a new home with little wireless noise. I know a thing or two about troubleshooting wireless challenges and I am absolutely positive that it's the radio hardware.
I've had friends bring over their devices, one being a DZ and it also performed poorly. Hoping that there's something software related that can be updated by HTC to fix this. Chances are slim though... thankfully I switch out phones every 4-6 months. Love my DZ other than this major flaw.
When I hold my DZ horizontally with keyboard open I either have all wifi bars or 1 less sometimes but it still works very well.
I had indeed to have a look at the icon when I read this thread to notice that I could lose 1 bar sometmes as I have never noticed any problem with wifi.
I have tried different ways of holding the phone and even when I try to cover wifi antenna location I don't always succeed in getting less bars.
Could it have to do with the fact that I'm a girl and have smaller hands so cover a smaller surface of the device?
I've posted a video on the problem.
I'm quite surprised that there is no other thread on this after realizing the number of people that have the same problem. I want to know if this is a problem for all users or only for certain defective G2s, so I know if should send it in.
missparker76 said:
When I hold my DZ horizontally with keyboard open I either have all wifi bars or 1 less sometimes but it still works very well.
I had indeed to have a look at the icon when I read this thread to notice that I could lose 1 bar sometmes as I have never noticed any problem with wifi.
I have tried different ways of holding the phone and even when I try to cover wifi antenna location I don't always succeed in getting less bars.
Could it have to do with the fact that I'm a girl and have smaller hands so cover a smaller surface of the device?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That could probably be the cause.
I was able to replicate the issue again, but now with better WiFi coverage. So yeah, I noticed that my signal bars drop 1 to 2 bars when using the HW keyboard, and it immediately pops back up to full strength when held in a portrait position. However, the AP that I was connected to was a G one, I think.
As for me, this isn't quite of a major issue for me yet. I only use the HW keyboard when doing SMS and typing in long info while browsing. Though it can be a pain when doing instant messaging on the phone.
I don't think the type of router is the cause, i think its just poorly placed and sensitivity of the wifi antenna. I tested it out on my university wifi and same result. The engineers failed on this one!
I noticed a drop of radio signal when using the hardware keyboard of my G1 (HTC Dream). IMHO there is nothing like a perfect place for a radio or an antenna in a smartphone. See the discussion going on regarding the signal drop of the iPhone 4, same thing. Every human being has different hands and holds a phone in another way, maybe similar but still different. There is no standardized hand, you know?
Just my opinion. :]
I purchased a Netgear WNDR3700 and set it up using both stock firmware and DDWRT customer firmware and did extensive testing, not just for G2/Desire Z testing but for my other wireless devices as well. I can assure you that the radio hardware and antenna placement/design are really lacking.
I've found that with my new wireless connection there is far more stability as I've never optimized my old router (Linksys WRT610 with DDWRT FW), but a definite loss in signal from the way the device is held. It really sucks, but it's not at bad as the mobile connection. I always have just a couple bars and then 0 bars, then it begins bandswitching and sucking some hardcore ****.
I really love the Desire Z otherwise but it looks like I need to hold out for the Motorola Atrix or the dual core LG Optimus coming out soon.
Me too
I see this drop in reception too, and sometimes a drop in 3G reception when I hold it certain ways. A bummer, but pretty much par for the course. I've never met a phone that doesn't suffer this same problem one way or another.
I just live with it. It's still a great device.
has anyone opened a bug ticket on HTC's site?