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Something I always liked about my Kaiser was having a lanyard attached to it. I did this after dropping it a couple of times due to it slipping out of my hand.
As the HD2 is even more slippery in my fingers and probably more likely to shatter or break on dropping, I was disappointed that there was no lanyard hole.
I contemplated drilling a hole in battery cover but didn't have a drill. So I've duct taped a lanyard onto the back, a la the attached pic.
First I lay the lanyard ring on the back and threaded duct tape through it, locking the lanyard ring to the phone. Then I layered a bit more duct tape on top to give it some strength.
It may look a bit messy and I could have done it neater. At the end of the day it will (hopefully) stop me dropping and breaking a £500 phone which I'm happy about. It's also surprisingly strong and will give an indication before it eventually gives way. Takes about 2 minutes.
Edit: Ugly duct tape method replaced by neater black tape version.
Edit2: Video howto added: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yL3owsWT3E4
Disclaimer: If you try this and end up dropping your HD2 anyway, I accept no responsibility!
That could be the worst monstrosity to a HD2 Ive ever seen.
Haha, you may be right. But I don't have a mobile phone to look pretty, I have it to use it and rely on it to be working when I need it, not broken into 100 pieces on the floor.
Here's a neater black tape version. Not sure it will be as strong as the first though.
Biffy said:
Here's a neater black tape version. Not sure it will be as strong as the first though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
looks sooo fragile , also u should try take it to a gravire-er if u dont have a drill and make a hole suitable
Job done no messing!
I can't understand why HC didnt add a lanyard bar and at the end of the day your solution will work and probably save your phone one day.
Nice graduated background on your photo and good image quality, what camera did you use?
It's the Panasonic FT1. A little waterproof compact.
Combining duct tape as the first layer and then black tape over for neatness is the best solution so far.
I've also considered super gluing the lanyard into the 3.5mm jack, but know I'd regret doing it straight after!
well, you guys aint the first to do this.
i invented a similar design a few weeks ago, mine used a 1" belt, meaning it can be strapped to your waist any time you like, safe as houses and pretty cool aesthetically
Final version
After a bit of testing, this is the final method I will use.
Some folded black tape under the battery cover. The battery cover adds extra strength to the tape and it looks so much neater than the Duct tape.
to be honest, that is just ugly. sorry.
I also missed such a whole for it, as I also did that with my Kaiser.
Now I sticked to a Silicon/Plastic Combi Case
why dont you get a jelly case or something like that and you can make hole in it. tape will hold fora few days only
I'm going to get a case as well I think. But the tape solution outlined which is partly under the battery case will last a lot longer than a few days.
The tape should only be under any pressure if you're about to drop your HD2, which won't be that often and then the weight isn't that great.
I think it's a great idea, and the 'under battery cover' mod (V 1.3? ) looks fine. I'm going to try copying it so I can clip it to my handbag, but with fishing line for the loop.
Mariad said:
I think it's a great idea, and the 'under battery cover' mod (V 1.3? ) looks fine. I'm going to try copying it so I can clip it to my handbag, but with fishing line for the loop.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, I agree. The third version looks nice and clean! The only question is: What did you attach the tape to? To the cover itself? Because I wonder how much strength it requires to pull off the cover and if that wouldn't happen if the device falls...
EDIT: I love how you labeled this a "hack"!
I attached the tape to the plastic under the cover, where the sim card is. I'll put a quick video together to illustrate.
I left it hanging by the lanyard last night, for about 7 hours, 7 feet in the air, no probs. It's not intended to be pulled as hard as a regular lanyard loop may be, but for a precaution if the phone slips from your hands. And then it will be fine.
And here's the not very good howto video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yL3owsWT3E4
I dont mean to jinx you or anything, but the piece of string from the lanyard could easily split the single layer of duct tape where it's folded.. that's going to be where the weak point is....especially considering the weight of the HD2. It's not going to matter how many pieces of tape you've got under the batter cover.
Now if you were to have your HD2 on a desk or in your pocket, the temptation of grabbing it by the lanyard will be there... or if someone else decided to yank the lanyard.....
I'd suggest trying that method of attachment on something of a similar weight and shaking it around for a bit to see how the duct tape handles.
Remember... the HD2 screen is thin glass... One drop on a hard surface or if it lands at the wrong angle, it'll be time to order a new one!
I've tested it by pulling far more strongly on the lanyard than it ever would be subjected to in real use. I was able to pull it hard about 20 times before the tape started to give way. By then it was visibly starting to tear away, so you should have a good warning before it breaks. It will perfectly suit my needs anyway and I might try doubling the tape up for more strength next. Also, I think this could be improved by using even stronger tape.
Very good on the last release.
Great idea, man.
I'm going to try, but I've only two left hands....
Pink strap should be nice too ;-)
EDIT
"meyourchum" has provded a link to get offical disassembly instruction with lot more information.
Check it for yourself
Hello folks,
I had a chance to work on my friends arc who bought a Rogers version and dropped it. He had it totally mess on the case and needed the full housing replacement.
I hope that doesn't happen to anyone. I didn't take any photos but I am trying to explain everything as it was to help anyone with this.
General Note:
- Anywhere you got stuck, watch some X10 Disassembly video
- Be very gentle to your phone in this process
- Besides all the screws the rest of the phone is put together with glue(Sticky Back) and snap(plastic for main board)
- Using this information on your own risk as I don't take any responsibility if anything happens to your phone.
Instruction
1) Remove the back battery cover. Thats the easiest part
2) Need star shaped screw driver[Trox](I bought the set for $5) there are 4 screws like that and two which opens with phillips screwdriver(tiny) This is what I bought
All the above we all have seen them
3) After removing the 6 screws remove the front fascia of the phone with a guitar picks, something skinny but sturdy*
* I recommend not using anything other than rubber or plastic in the whole process.
4) Main board is snapped in with plastic to the body which easily can be opened.
5) Little board on the bottom is glued(sticky back @ top) which you can remove with pulling little hard but make sure you don't break it.
6) Majority of the wire you see connected to mainboard can be discounted (snap in wires)
7) Removing the screen: from outside of the phone (like you are looking directly to screen like you normally do) you need to put something under neat and raise up the screen. This part has glue as well and its hard to lift but I did it and it should be possible.
8) if you are doing a full housing replacement, then there are stuff here and there that you need to remove and re-use it on the new housing(Like 3.5 mm jack, HDMI lid, etc.)
Good Luck and let me know if you have any questions.
1st time... ehm.. taking the Arc apart, that is!
Helluw there
Just read your post, and thought I wanted to share with you, that I might be opening one of these slick little things. My friend broke his display, and the ISP is talking about some 'off the scale' repair prizes.
...So, he asked me to do the job
Told him I didn't have any experience on the disassembling of this phonetype, but he trusts me it seems
I might return with some questions in case of problems, is that OK with you Nimche?
Greetingz
Hope u have the courage to make a video next time
Sent from my Arc using XDA premium App
xelion said:
Helluw there
Just read your post, and thought I wanted to share with you, that I might be opening one of these slick little things. My friend broke his display, and the ISP is talking about some 'off the scale' repair prizes.
...So, he asked me to do the job
Told him I didn't have any experience on the disassembling of this phonetype, but he trusts me it seems
I might return with some questions in case of problems, is that OK with you Nimche?
Greetingz
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure, no problem. I would be more than happy to answer. Lets see just some general stuff...
Note: anywhere you got stuck, watch some X10 Disassembly video
Note: be very gentle to your phone in this process
- you remove the back battery cover. Thats the easiest part
- you need that star shaped screw driver(I bought the set for $5) there are 4 screws like that and two which opens with phillips screwdriver(tiny)
All the above we all have seen them
after removing the 6 screws
note: besides all the screws the rest of the phone is put together with glue and snap(plastic for main board)
- remove the front fascia of the phone with a guitar picks, something skinny but sturdy*
* I recommend not using anything other than rubber or plastic in the whole process.
- main board is snapped in with plastic to the body which easily can be opened. I change full housing and not sure if you have to remove the hard key button from the bottom end of the phone too or not but that little board on the bottom is glue which you can remove with pulling little hard but make sure you don't break it.
- All the wire you see connected to mainboard can be discounted (snap in wires)
- There is a big one which goes to the screen you have to dis-attach that before removing the screen
- Removing the screen: from outside of the phone (like you are looking directly to screen like you normally do) you need to put something under neat and raise up the screen. This part has glue as well and its hard to lift but I did it and it should be possible.
Good Luck and let me know if you have any questions.
Can you answer this??? It get's hot here (and also in the same spot on the front.. so what's inside at this point??
CPU is right behind the second cover. I wish I could take some photos.
Nimche said:
CPU is right behind the second cover. I wish I could take some photos.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the clarification. I was also suspecting since this area gets damn hot when playing games and even at charging (sometimes).
So seems like they move the CPU from behind the battery in X10 to near to the camera in Arc .
Can I change only the front faceplate around the screen without removing the mainboard? How easy would that be? I want to change mine to Misty Silver as Rogers only carry the Midnight Blue.
Also, for glued parts, do I have to glue them back on the new housing?
hellocng said:
Can I change only the front faceplate around the screen without removing the mainboard? How easy would that be? I want to change mine to Misty Silver as Rogers only carry the Midnight Blue.
Also, for glued parts, do I have to glue them back on the new housing?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glue part, they are more sticky than glued. You just simply stick it back where it was.
Where is the silver face you found?
This is retarded from them...
Digitizer and screen(one part) are sticked to the front face. In order to for your to change the faceplate only(front) you may have to go through the whole process because the wires from digitizer are going through a big hole to the main board. You don't want to mess around with $700 or $800.
Inside, everything is small. really small. I thought I totally screwed up the whole thing. Technology has gone forward alot since I was a kid putting radio together.
Good Luck
prathaban said:
Thanks for the clarification. I was also suspecting since this area gets damn hot when playing games and even at charging (sometimes).
So seems like they move the CPU from behind the battery in X10 to near to the camera in Arc .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, there are two board one above battery and one below batter @ bottom of the phone
On top is the main board
on bottom is the board for hard keys.
Nicely put together but they could have done a better job there....
Are there three parts to the housing? I assume there is the front plate, middle housing with the chrome, and the battery cover. The mainboard should be in the middle with the chrome. So I can't just detach the screen front the front plate? What is holding the three pieces of housing together? The six screws?
There are silver housings on eBay from time to time. Though, blue is a lot more common.
Three pieces. Back battery cover which is nothing.
Then there are two main pieces.
Chrome which is more like a holder of the fascia.
If I remember correctly, the front Fascia is the one holding all the board on it including that metal look piece(aluminum probably)
I will take photos and upload here...
Uploaded photos to the first post...
Hey, I'm looking to replace the chrome piece which has a few nasty chips in it, after removing the second back cover, how easy is it to take off that chrome piece?
Great post
How can I replace digitizer? I dropped my phone and the glass cracked
anyone know where i can get the tiny screw driver? I cant seem to find the correct one. they are either too small or too big.
how easy is it to replace the front cover, ive cracked the top of it and chipped a bit out the side (surrounding the screen) i presume it'd be simple enough. And does anyone know where i can get a good quality/genuine front cover replacement?
soldiers33 said:
anyone know where i can get the tiny screw driver? I cant seem to find the correct one. they are either too small or too big.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, you could have sent a private message.
I bought the screw driver here at local tool shop. Home Depot sells them.
Its called Trox Screw Driver and I bought exactly this one http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&productId=100087664&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&ci_sku=100087664&ci_kw={keyword}&cm_mmc=shopping-_-googleads-_-pla-_-100087664&ci_gpa=pla&locStoreNum=618
I don't have the packaging but they should be standard.
Good Luck
mps83 said:
how easy is it to replace the front cover, ive cracked the top of it and chipped a bit out the side (surrounding the screen) i presume it'd be simple enough. And does anyone know where i can get a good quality/genuine front cover replacement?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can find the whole housing between $30 to $40 but the front cover is that actual main piece that holds all the internal components + the screen.
If the crack doesn't bug you much, I would not do it since you have to replace the sticker behind you battery as well, which is not easy to peel off + you have to take the screen off the old front fascia which is glued and kind of hard to take off.
Downside of the whole thing for me was the sticker. I have to find an alternative for this problem.
Well it's me again.
This time, i had some spare time and thought of making something i wanted to do for some time ago. It's my first time doing this (although i'm familiar with the process since i use it for PCB making) but i thought i should give it a try. And in great recognition of what the XDA community enabled us - the users - to do with our phones, i wanted to brand my phone's battery cover with the XDA logo next to the andoid logo, the thing (os) that xda developers made possible to us. Ah and in the xda spirit, i thought it would be kind of cool to handcraft the design of that battery cover.
Here's the story of today's afternoon for me
...and possibly a guide for you, daring folks around there who just happen to have a spare scratched and ugly looking battery cover like i did
So.. i had this hd2 battery cover, from a dead HD2 that i have (poor fellow died during testing of the cpu bga problems and my tries to find a fix for them). The battery cover was in really bad shape, scratched, the finish was torn out.. looked like... crap.
I saw a topic around here about how to make your battery cover to a chrome-like finish by using some sandpaper and stuff like that. I think the idea is good, but the result is well... too shiny for my taste...and i want a "custom made one". I also wanted to have the xda and android logos onto the battery cover but i could not afford some laser etching on it, i can't even find one shop to do this here were i live in Romania. So here's how i did it.
1. I opted for a brushed metal design. A clear look design is just to shiny for my taste and... well, i guess it scratches more easily. So, using sandpaper, i've begun clearing away the original paint on the battery cover. When i was done with that, i begun sanding in only one direction and in straight line, in order to have a more symmetrical brushed metal look.
After some time sanding and after changing the sandpaper roughness to more finer ones, here's how it looked. Note that this is not the final design.
2. Next i needed some sort of logo - the stuff i'll be putting on the battery cover. I googled around, and got the xda text and android logo. I've edited them to a black&white design (you'll see later why..) and it looked like this.
3. I mirrored the logo, using irfan view and selecting horizontal flip from the image dropdown menu. You'll also see why. Then I've printed the logo onto a glossy a4 paper sheet, like the ones used for foto printing. I've used a laser printer, this is really necessary, inkjet ones won't work for what i'm about to do. You'll also see why
4. I draw some guiding lines for helping me center the image once i place the battery cover over it. Here's how i did.
5. I now placed the battery cover over the sheet of paper, using the lines i already drawn as a template to help me center it. As the image is mirrored, as you may guess, i will be transferring the logo from the paper to the metal surface and once there, it will look normal (not mirrored). More on that later. I also secured the paper to the battery cover with some electrical tape. Don't get upset, you'll also see why.
6. Well, i did use some fair amount of electrical tape to secure that piece of paper to the metallic surface. It needs to be as stretched as possible, not able to move around.
7. I used a smoothing iron (i don't know the exact word in english, aah, that thing you use to smooth out clothes) to heat up and press the piece of paper to the metallic surface. I pressed the iron and move it around the logo zone for about 15 minutes, at maximum temperature. Because the battery cover is not exactly flat, i was careful to follow the contour in order to leave no metal part unheated.
8. I then placed the heated battery cover with the paper on it, under a jet of cold water. I left it under the water for 15 minutes. This is important. The water must be cold, never use hot water.
9. I carefully begun peeling of the paper from the metallic part.
10. I peeled of almost all the paper, one thin layer still remained over the logo area. Don't rush things, place it under a water jet for yet another 5 minutes.
11. Ahh, there it is, the thing starts to look like something, ain't it
12. In the photo above, you can see that the toner from the paper was transferred to the metallic piece. That's why you need a laser printer, because of this property of it's toner. And also that's why you needed to heat it up with the iron. In fact, you're simulating what the laser printer does every time when you print something. Well, you done it on a curved metal piece.
In this last picture you'll also see that the logo isn't exactly 100% black, there are some grey or white spots on it. That's residual paper left over it. If you carefully rub it with your finger or a fine brush, you can actually remove it if you insist. You'll get a pure black logo (or other color if you wish and if you have a color laser printer available). At this stage you could also stop, if you like a black/color logo. You could then apply some lacquer, the spray-able variety to preserve the surface from scratches. I chose another design so i will go on with some other steps from here.
13. If you want something different, you may skip rubbing the logo to remove all the paper. If the logo looks as in the above picture, you're good to go for the next step. Remove the metallic piece from the jet of water and let it dry. If while it's wet you see that the black toner has gone away from some points, you'll need to use a little bit of paint to cover them out (you'll also see why). So if you see points where the toner is gone (after you removed the paper at the 9-10 steps) try to memorize where the areas affected are, then let the piece of metal to dry out for some half hour. After it's dry, you'll probably see that it turned kind of gray or even white-ish. It's no problem, it's normal, but it will be harder now to see those affected areas i was talking about before. That's why you memorized them. Now use a paint marker (one that has real paint in it, not the ones used to write on cd's or similar to those) or if you can't get one, you may also use some fingernail polish. Make some small dots over the affected areas. After you complete this, let the paint/fingernail polish to dry out. Be careful not to spoil the logo YOU WILL HAVE TO START OVER FROM STEP 1 IF YOU GET IT WRONG HERE... and that sucks )
14. After the paint has dried out, place the metallic piece under a water jet again. Cold water. Remove it after 1 minute, recheck for afected areas, if you still find them, you'll have to let the thing dry out again, and cover those parts with paint dots, again.
Here's mine.
and here's once i've done with the painting
After you're done, leave the whole thing to dry out for about 1 hour.
15. Get yourself some ferric chloride. You can get it from electronic components store, radioshack etc. It's used in electronics by hobbyists who want to etch their own pcb's. You'll need this stuff also. About 300ml will do.. The stuff is toxic, you don't want to touch it or spill it over clothes or other things, it will leave out some nasty spots that you can't remove. Use some gloves while handling this stuff. Now pour the ferric chloride into a plastic recipient big enough to fit the battery cover into.
Well i ignored the safety tip, but i'm being careful, i know the stuff, have been working with it for some good years.
16. Now you want to drop the battery cover...into the black stuff . Drop it with the logo side up. NOT DOWN. I really mean it. UP. Carefully swing the plastic recipient, just enough to move the liquid around. Try not to expose the metallic part, you must keep it submerged all the time. If you want to check the progress, be quick, lean the plastic recipient to one side just to expose the metallic piece, look at it, but then quickly lean the recipient back and keep the metallic piece submerged. Prolonged exposure to air in this stage can ruin your progress.
Here's how mine looks after 5 minutes into the ferric chloride. You'll be wanting to keep the metallic plate there for about 15-20 minutes. If you let it longer it will turn to a more darker color. If you let it just for 10 minutes you'll get a light gray. However you can't get an uniform black (or something as dark as an original battery cover) because if you let it this much you risk that the ferric chloride attacks the toner and paint surface, making holes in it or braking it apart.
Like i've said, here's the thing after 5 minutes. I want to let it for another 10-15 minutes.
17.
Once you left it for enough time, lean back the plastic recipient and look at the metallic piece once more. Take note that the color you see now will get a bit lighter once the whole process is finished. If you're satisfied, prepare a big water boll and quickly remove the metallic piece from the ferric chloride and drop it in the water. Be as quick as possible, while being careful not to drop the ferric chloride. Use gloves when doing this. Once the metallic piece is in the water, steer up the water with your hand.
Here's how mine looks now.
Your plate could be lighter or darker at this stage, depending on how much you left it in the ferric chloride. Don't worry if the color is not uniform. Instead, while the plate is still under water, get yourself a kitchen sponge, the one with one abrasive side and with the metallic plate still under water start rubbing it on the direction of the original brushed metal design you made in the start. Rub in only one direction, with the sponge and the plate always under water and continue to do so until the color becomes more uniform. Then use some isopropyl alcohol (also from radioshack - or the place you got the ferric chloride from.. they should also have this) and remove the metallic board from under the water. Now while the thing is still wet (don't let it dry!!!), get another sponge (clean dry one) and pour some isopropyl alcohol on the abrasive part and start rubbing the metallic piece once more, on the same and only direction (not back and forth). Rub in a parallel direction with the original scratches that makes your "brushed" design. The isopropyl alcohol should begin to disolve the toner and the paint. It should also help you to remove residual oxides left since you placed the metallic piece into the ferric chloride.
Here's my progress.
toner is starting to break down
18. aaaand... in the end, if you did it right, you should have something like this :
19. once the surface is of uniform color, wash the whole thing under a jet of hot water with some soap to remove any residues left by the chemical processes.
20. You're done! Now you have your custom made-hand crafted-geeky-logo. The logo itself won't peel off and the surrounding stuff is actually chemically embedded into the metal by a process similar to industrial aluminum anodizing (the same process used to cure aluminum used in unibody designs). Although it is scratch resistant to some degree, you may want to use some spray lacquer to protect your work.
I haven't got any lacquer yet but i'll use some if i can get some quality stuff. Here are some more photos with the thing so far.
(please excuse the photo quality, my camera and it's flash produces a weird looking effect, it seems that the metallic thing is kind of made from small dots, not brushed metal.. damned thing.. guess i'll be needing a new one)
...and a small video (with the same crappy camera)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MtuRn02lPgY
Well, all in all, i like the thing. It's my first try at this, although i've done dozens of toner transfers to copper pcb's. I cannot be perfect at first try, probably neither you guys but is a good DIY afternoon fun.
I would also like to thank the xda community for giving me such a good times with my hd2's along with my other htc phones in the past. XDA has become such a successful community because of it's dedicated developers and users. I'm proud to wear the xda letters next to my phone.
PS: i promise i will also add a website link in the next version, if i get a new and more powerful iron, i was afraid this one won't be hot enough to heat the thing properly and transfer smaller text or details
amazing stuff dude!!!
i had lots of fun reading it and seeing the progress along the way and you've explained all the steps really well...the result speaks for itself!
++respect!
you my friend always surprise me, first with thermal solution and than THIS awesome " discovery ", thanks again .
Just like the user above said!
+respect Sir Facdemol!
awweeeeeeeeeeeeesome!!!!!
awesome....but tedious !
Its pretty cool but alot of work
Sent from the land were pigs fly
fantastic. really nicely done!
Love the mod.
thanks for the feedback
the mod took me about 3-4 hours to make. More complex designs are possible, ore similar designs on a mirror like finish. If the HD2 had an aluminum case.. hahah, that would have been fun...
I would vote for you for King of the HD2 hardware!
Very well done. I very well may have to try this. My battery cover is starting to look very bad.
OMG this is amazing! I may need to buy a metal backing for my phone just so I can do this.
this really looks sooo amazing. gread work!
That's bloody impressive! Might have to do this to my HD2
Damn that's awesome
Sent from my Nexus S 4G using XDA Premium App
Holy crabcakes. That's rad
. . NS4G . . MIUI . .
Is it for sale? (jk)
Really really nice, I like it!
+1 on everything was said!
Amazing. Well done!
Awesome!
Very very cool!
WOW! "applause"
Hi All
I spent the last 2 days trying to find a simple solution to this problem. Even though my phone is still under manufacturers warranty and Service Providers warranty I decided to just do this as working carefully there will be no indication that the phone has been opened or the "fix" has been applied
I for one couldn't take my phone to a service centre as they would have booked in my phone and gave me some Nokia 3100 knock-off budget phone for one and the repair would have taken 21 days and having business requirements that my phone needs to meet I decided to just do it myself.
So I decided to open it up myself and fix it and here is the guide on how to permanently fix the echo that people get when phoning you.
Problem:
When you receive or make a call people on the other end of the line hear a echo of themselves and this might be intermittent but seem to be worse when having any type of cover on the phone.
Reason:
The reason this occurs is because the speaker depicted in the 3rd photo labelled as "B" has a rubber seal at the bottom of it that has gone loose from the casing by either a drop or some vibration that is making the speaker's sound go into the phone and picked up by the NC (Noise cancellation) microphone shown in the same photo as "A" rather than be isolated and out the speaker hole on the front of the phone.
Fix:
This fix is fairly simple and permanent. You only need a 5mm x 12mm piece of cardboard or think paper that is around 0.5mm thick that can be used as a buffer.
Procedure:
Step 1:
Picture 1 Shows the phone screws that should be removed 1st depicted by round red circles. Keep the screws in the same order as you remove them as only 4 of the 7 screws have locktite on them and be sure when you replace them you put them back in the same position.
Step 2:
Picture 1 As depicted from 1 to 6 is the easiest way to follow to unclip your back and front cover from one another to not break any of the clips. The back cover is very rugged so don't be afraid to unclip it as it is unlikely to break.
See Below Picture no1
Step 3:
Picture 2 is how it should look like when the back cover has been removed. We will only be focused on the area in the red block called ZZ
See Below Picture no2
Step 4:
Picture 3 shows the 2 components that's interfering with one another. "A" is the NC microphone sensor. Be sure to check that the sensor is properly inserted into the rubber sleeve covering it. "B" is the speaker and is glued with some ridiculously little amount of glue into the housing of "B" and can be lifted with a tweezers or some small object to be able to lift it out of the housing in "B"
See Below Picture no3
Step 5:
Picture 4 Loosen the speaker by just moving it in this aspect north and south a bit until it can be lifted up. Please note the arrow as it flips the way the arrow is pointing to expose the casing it is housed in. Clean out the housing of any dirt and wipe the speaker off as well of any dirt or substance that might elevate the speaker a little bit in its housing.
Step 6:
Picture 4 Flip the speaker back into its housing and firmly press it down so that it seats itself well in the housing. The rubber that the speaker is surrounded with should press firmly in the housing to seal it of any noise coming into the phone.
See Below Picture no4
Step 7:
This is where you use the piece of cardboard or thick paper of 5mm x 12mm by 0.5mm thick and place it over the speaker. I recommend cutting up a business card as they are the correct thickness. When looking at Picture 4 the cardboard should be covering the whole red block as depicted by "C" and should look like Picture 5 when placed
See Below Picture no5
Step 8:
Close up the phone and screw everything back together. The piece of cardboard or thick paper will ensure that the casing press the speaker tightly in place and keep it there without letting it leak into the phone to cause the echo effect for people calling you.
Step 9:
Enjoy calls without any echo effect.
This is all very simple to do and my echo has gone away completely. The replacement part they are referencing to in other topics is not really the problem and has nothing to do with it. In the process of replacing that part the speaker gets loosened and removed out of the housing and upon putting the phone back together they securely glue the speaker back in place and thats why they get the same results.
If this guide helped please post and say so. The problem has no relation to software or anything other than the speaker leaking sound into the phone being picked up by the NC.
Hope this helps. My phone is working 100% without any issues.
nice find!!! Ill wait for some more feedback untill i test this myself
So its samsung's fault that we have problems!
I tested 3 different brand new phones and all had the issue. Does this mean that Samsung fails to correctly assemble all of it's phones?!
manmad said:
nice find!!! Ill wait for some more feedback untill i test this myself
So its samsung's fault that we have problems!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ye to some extent. They should have used more glue to be honest but then it would have made it impossible to replace the part if it should break.
I fixed mine this morning this way that's why I made this post because I couldn't find anything to really help me to get this resolved and this is definitely the fix for it.
EQUANT said:
I tested 3 different brand new phones and all had the issue. Does this mean that Samsung fails to correctly assemble all of it's phones?!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Think about it this way. Anything comes loose with vibration. Maybe the delivery company man handled the boxes a bit on delivery or the vibration on the phone itself while being shipped could have loosened it as well.
Remember the Speaker needs to be completely sealed off from the internals of the phone and that's why you need the buffer so that the casing can keep it firmly pressed in place and sealed off from the internals.
Been on the phone a lot today and every person I ask tells me there is absolutely no echo.
And that coming from a 100% guaranteed echo for the last month
so, anyone else tested this?
manmad said:
so, anyone else tested this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would seem that ppl will probably do it and then not come back to post it worked because my "Thank You" count went up yet no replies
If your phone does this why not just do it? You have nothing to lose
Fixeeeed!!
OMG! It really worked thank you
I have tried this and it still seems hit and miss.
The case i use is a CaseMate Tough, it still echoes with this case fitted. If I use my other case a CaseMate Slim, it still echoes to a degree but not as bad.
Definatley no echo with no case though.
On a side note and not a whinge, probably worth mentioning in your guide which way the buttons go around when they fall out when you take the back off
hi toxic dust Thanks for your guide,i didn't apply the fix yet...i'm italian so it's alittle bit difficult for me to follow and understand every step.
Is it ok to use insulating tape (like black tape)??
And did i understand properly ...you have to cover with the tape the whole "C" area highlighted in red?
Thank you very much
Thanks, will try it.
You sir, are a genius!
I don't have the echo problem (even with my Otterbox) but I will definitely keep this thread in mind if something comes up.
Thanks.
gasss12 said:
hi toxic dust Thanks for your guide,i didn't apply the fix yet...i'm italian so it's alittle bit difficult for me to follow and understand every step.
Is it ok to use insulating tape (like black tape)??
And did i understand properly ...you have to cover with the tape the whole "C" area highlighted in red?
Thank you very much
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I prefer not to use anything with glue on it. You could probably use insulating tape (black tape) but you have to remember there are heat distribution on the inside of your phone and it might stick now but with heat applied any glue a specially on tape like that becomes soft and might short your phone as glue becomes conductive when in a liquid form.
Thick paper wont conduct at all and heat has no effect on it hence the preferance to a solid piece of thick paper or cardboard.
I used a Business card and cut that to the size I needed. I'm sure you could find a Business card of some sorts lying around
Yes. You have cover the complete section marked as "C". You will see that the marked section is the complete speaker. Just make sure that the paper is properly sized and is on it directly because you need it to securely press the speaker in place.
Definatley no echo with no case though.
On a side note and not a whinge, probably worth mentioning in your guide which way the buttons go around when they fall out when you take the back off
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine was echoing without a case so for me its a 100% fix
The buttons can actually go in any way round. It will just make your button a bit more stiff to press. If you want the button smooth it has little hinges. Those hinges have a little dent in them on the 1 side. Ensure that those dents show to the screen side.
Mine alsof does it without a case. I think I'm going to try it in a few days!
Sent from my GT-I9100 using xda premium
Thx toxicdust. Your solution worked perfectly!!!
I had this echo problem since I started using the Samsung Galaxy S2 with a Melkco case and was frustrated about it. Then I decided to buy a larger accupack (Samsung 2000 mAh type EB-K1A2E). This came with a separate backcover so I needed another case. The new flipcase (Samsung EF-C1A2B) is compatible with this larger accu. I hoped with this new (Samsung!) case the echo would have disappeared, but no, it was not! After reading about this echo problem in a different forums I stumbled on your solution. This was the first one that was likely to be a good solution and not some quirky workaround. So I started following your instructions and can now say the echo is completely gone! Wow man, thank you for this. Some extra details: It was easy to take the 7 screws out, but a little uncomfortable to open the back after that. Most easy is to simply use your fingernail in between the front and back of the housing on the side and go around. In my case the speaker seemed not as loose as in your case, so I didn't bother to try further to take it out. Only thing I did was checking the fixing of the two mics (seemed okay), pushed the speaker unit carefully in its housing (but did not seem to move though) and put a small piece of a business card on the speaker as you indicated. See the white piece in the picture below. I think I made it al little bit bigger then your 12 x 5 mm. The acoustical feedback loop has broken this way, so it is a perfect solution which only takes 10 minutes to do.
I am convinced. I will try it tomorrow
Sent from my GT-I9100 using xda premium
dutchiek said:
Thx toxicdust. Your solution worked perfectly!!!
I had this echo problem since I started using the Samsung Galaxy S2 with a Melkco case and was frustrated about it. Then I decided to buy a larger accupack (Samsung 2000 mAh type EB-K1A2E). This came with a separate backcover so I needed another case. The new flipcase (Samsung EF-C1A2B) is compatible with this larger accu. I hoped with this new (Samsung!) case the echo would have disappeared, but no, it was not! After reading about this echo problem in a different forums I stumbled on your solution. This was the first one that was likely to be a good solution and not some quirky workaround. So I started following your instructions and can now say the echo is completely gone! Wow man, thank you for this. Some extra details: It was easy to take the 7 screws out, but a little uncomfortable to open the back after that. Most easy is to simply use your fingernail in between the front and back of the housing on the side and go around. In my case the speaker seemed not as loose as in your case, so I didn't bother to try further to take it out. Only thing I did was checking the fixing of the two mics (seemed okay), pushed the speaker unit carefully in its housing (but did not seem to move though) and put a small piece of a business card on the speaker as you indicated. See the white piece in the picture below. I think I made it al little bit bigger then your 12 x 5 mm. The acoustical feedback loop has broken this way, so it is a perfect solution which only takes 10 minutes to do.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ye I had the same thing. No matter where I googled there was absolutely no solution and decided to trouble shoot myself as I wont be waiting 21 days to get my phone back with "No fault Found" response from them in any ways. I also have the extended battery and that made me also use they Silicone case that makes it even worse
After seeing how rugged the SGS2 is in the drop test on SmartphoneEnvy.com I decided to not use a case anymore as a 5 foot drop directly on the screen barely scratched the casing and the screen got no damage at all.
I am glad the solution actually works for more people and thank you for the picture. If you don't mind I will put it in my guide at the top for better illustration
It worked! Thanks alot. Let's hope it stays fixed
Sent from my GT-I9100 using xda premium
Please read my post I have made the step by step instruction
Here the link below:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=21795243&postcount=62
Cool. Even though you used rubber its cool. At least it fix the problem
Regardless of what is used it needs to be about 0.5mm think. Also remember that you might have had something underneath the speaker keeping it lifted regardless of the amount of pressure you put on it that's why its recommended to clean the speaker and the housing
Hi All
Picked up a Nexus 4 a few days ago and only just noticed (as result of a call) that the proximity sensor is reporting that its "blocked" at all times, so the phone things its against my head. I can workaround this by using the "Power button to hang Up" option but at present cannot access any in call features.
When I look under good light the sensor, there are 2 areas so not sure which is the sensor, I can see what looks like a bubble under both. if you imagine what an air pocket looks like under a screen protector thats what it looks like but its behind the glass, perfectly centred. I guess its possible that something has broken here as a result of the drop, the top left corner was the point of impact, does that seem likely?
I got the phone cheap as it had a broke screen so have a new one coming. Its the full screen, glass and digitizer. Does anyone know of the sensor is part of the screen or does it sit behind and then I could be really screwed!
Ta
bert682 said:
Hi All
Picked up a Nexus 4 a few days ago and only just noticed (as result of a call) that the proximity sensor is reporting that its "blocked" at all times, so the phone things its against my head. I can workaround this by using the "Power button to hang Up" option but at present cannot access any in call features.
When I look under good light the sensor, there are 2 areas so not sure which is the sensor, I can see what looks like a bubble under both. if you imagine what an air pocket looks like under a screen protector thats what it looks like but its behind the glass, perfectly centred. I guess its possible that something has broken here as a result of the drop, the top left corner was the point of impact, does that seem likely?
I got the phone cheap as it had a broke screen so have a new one coming. Its the full screen, glass and digitizer. Does anyone know of the sensor is part of the screen or does it sit behind and then I could be really screwed!
Ta
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok so I did a little more reading and it seems that a gorilla has changed the screen on this phone in the past and he / she has used compound to stick the screen down and some of it has gone around the sensor and the resulting press down on the screen has created a few air pockets.
Looking less forward to changing the screen now as no doubt with my luck the "technician" will have used some crazy heat resistant glue!
Also....missing the speaker grille....funny how you only notice things after you have bought them!
Search for proximity sensor fix after screen replacement here on xda. I've found out that if you switch sides of the little rubber /plastic cover that covers the proximity sensor, your problem will be solved. And the light sensor will work with no problems as well.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
Sp_Ark said:
Search for proximity sensor fix after screen replacement here on xda. I've found out that if you switch sides of the little rubber /plastic cover that covers the proximity sensor, your problem will be solved. And the light sensor will work with no problems as well.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Really?
From reading the thing to do is either make the height of the bushing a little larger, height wise. Or, to increase the diameter of the holes.
I like your fix the best though....no messing about, just rotate.
Will give it a go, thanks!
It will work for sure, I posted this fix on a YouTube screen replacement guide of octopus glues I think and its confirmed to work from a lot of people. Then if you use a custom rom go to brightness settings while having auto brightness enabled and try changing light sources from dark to very bright places to see the instant lux values you get. If you are not satisfied with the result try custom auto brightness values.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
bert682 said:
Really?
From reading the thing to do is either make the height of the bushing a little larger, height wise. Or, to increase the diameter of the holes.
I like your fix the best though....no messing about, just rotate.
Will give it a go, thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, I discovered this "fix" in a random youtube comment (was that you @Sp_Ark?) just a few days ago, and it worked for me. Then I found a thread here that confirmed that this could be a solution (which could have saved me a week of frustration).
If there's actually something on the proximity sensor, then you might be screwed. Well, not really, or $10 from China. The module is a snap-in piece with connector ribbon that also has the headphone jack. The prox sensor is the smaller one on the right side (when looking at the screen).
Disassembly of the Nexus 4 is pretty simple compared to many other smartphones. You'll need a T5 TORX wrench/bit for the screws at the bottom, and a very small Phillips driver for all the screws in the inside. You'll also need a tool to split the 2 halves apart (your screen replacement might have come with tools). You can find a couple videos on youtube, as well as a detailed teardown (pics) at ifixit.com. If you have a hairdryer (or an actual heat gun) you can make the process easier by softening the glue with heat, but it's not absolutely necessary. Just go slowly and be careful when prying the halves apart so you don't flex it too much and break the glass back.
Which screen assembly did you get? You can get it where it's just the LCD and the digitizer, and you can also get it that has the bezel and speaker with it. When I replaced the screen on my N4, I got the whole deal with the bezel and speaker, since it meant less work and fewer things to screw up.
Planterz said:
Yep, I discovered this "fix" in a random youtube comment (was that you @Sp_Ark?) just a few days ago, and it worked for me. Then I found a thread here that confirmed that this could be a solution (which could have saved me a week of frustration).
If there's actually something on the proximity sensor, then you might be screwed. Well, not really, or $10 from China. The module is a snap-in piece with connector ribbon that also has the headphone jack. The prox sensor is the smaller one on the right side (when looking at the screen).
Disassembly of the Nexus 4 is pretty simple compared to many other smartphones. You'll need a T5 TORX wrench/bit for the screws at the bottom, and a very small Phillips driver for all the screws in the inside. You'll also need a tool to split the 2 halves apart (your screen replacement might have come with tools). You can find a couple videos on youtube, as well as a detailed teardown (pics) at ifixit.com. If you have a hairdryer (or an actual heat gun) you can make the process easier by softening the glue with heat, but it's not absolutely necessary. Just go slowly and be careful when prying the halves apart so you don't flex it too much and break the glass back.
Which screen assembly did you get? You can get it where it's just the LCD and the digitizer, and you can also get it that has the bezel and speaker with it. When I replaced the screen on my N4, I got the whole deal with the bezel and speaker, since it meant less work and fewer things to screw up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got a "kit" off eBay, [URL="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181144377215?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181144377215?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT so it appears to be the complete screen. Ive watched a few videos but from the pictures it looks like the screen comes with the metal backing so I suspect I dont need to remove the old screen from the casing, thoughts?
Im expecting this to be the screen, bezel, and metal backing so I need to do is connect in my motherboard and all the other components.
Am I off in thinking this?
That's the full part. The one you've posted is the type I usually go for, they're good quality so far.
bert682 said:
I got a "kit" off eBay, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181144377215?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT so it appears to be the complete screen. Ive watched a few videos but from the pictures it looks like the screen comes with the metal backing so I suspect I dont need to remove the old screen from the casing, thoughts?
Im expecting this to be the screen, bezel, and metal backing so I need to do is connect in my motherboard and all the other components.
Am I off in thinking this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You made a wise choice, young padawan.
Yeah, that looks to be the entire front assembly, including the screen+digitizer, already installed in the bezel. Also includes the earpiece plus the speaker grill that you're missing. You'll have to swap over the guts, and that's about it. It's easiest to swap the power and volume rocker buttons first since it's a bit harder to get them where they go if you've got the logic board in the way. Just remember that the contact points need to make a ^ rather than a v when you're assembling it with the screen facing down. Tweezers are good to have, especially if they're very long and even better if they're curved. I also recommend doing this over a clean towel to avoid scratching the screen (there'll probably be a film over it too), and the fluffier the towel the better, to catch the tiny screws from flying and disappearing.
Honestly, getting the 2 halves apart is probably the hardest part. They make specialized tools for this, and often the sellers will include them, but it doesn't look like your purchase includes them (mine didn't either). Something plastic is the best choice, since you're less likely to cause cosmetic damage to the plastic (especially the bezel) if you slip (and you will slip). As I said before, GO SLOWLY. Work it apart a little bit at a time, alternate side to side, starting from the bottom. Eventually you'll be able to pull the 2 halves apart.
The battery will be stuck in pretty good and will need to be pried out. If I were you (and a week or so ago, I was you), I'd pop a new battery in while you're at it. At this point in the phone's life, it's probably had at least a few hundred cycles on the battery and has lost 10-20% of its original capacity. The other components shouldn't be nearly as hard to get out. Just pry in various points until the piece pops out. Do not force anything. Just work it out slowly. After you pop off the piece that covers the USB port, there's the board that has the port, and that can be slightly tricky to get out. Best way I found is to slip something small and flat (screwdriver?) into the port and push up and out, and the board should come out easily.
Thankfully, there's only 3 different screws used, and they're all easily differentiated from each other. There's the 2 T5 TORX that hold the halves together, the 2 very short screws with wide heads that hold the battery in place, and the rest that hold everything else are all identical to each other.
It looks like on your assembly, it comes with its own adhesives. Everywhere there's a blue film, pull it off and there'll be adhesive underneath. I'd recommend leaving the film on over the part where the sensor/headphone jack module goes until you're sure you can stick it in place with the proximity sensor not acting wonky. Download an app (I used Phone Tester) that can read the prox sensor. FYI, as long as everything is in place, and you've attached the battery, you can boot the phone without replacing the back cover, and test the sensor (just depress the center bit of the power button board). You don't need to screw everything in, but you should at least screw and tighten down the few that surround the sensor area. Once you've got it reading properly (best of luck), it's time to put all back together.
You should familiarize yourself with the teardown/reassembly guides out there. Go to ifixit.com and have everything ready to look at. This is the video that I used to guide me, and I watched it through a few times before I attempted it myself. You should be just fine with your phone after familiarizing yourself, but if you have any specific problems or questions, feel free to ask, and I'm all too happy to help.
Planterz said:
You made a wise choice, young padawan.
Yeah, that looks to be the entire front assembly, including the screen+digitizer, already installed in the bezel. Also includes the earpiece plus the speaker grill that you're missing. You'll have to swap over the guts, and that's about it. It's easiest to swap the power and volume rocker buttons first since it's a bit harder to get them where they go if you've got the logic board in the way. Just remember that the contact points need to make a ^ rather than a v when you're assembling it with the screen facing down. Tweezers are good to have, especially if they're very long and even better if they're curved. I also recommend doing this over a clean towel to avoid scratching the screen (there'll probably be a film over it too), and the fluffier the towel the better, to catch the tiny screws from flying and disappearing.
Honestly, getting the 2 halves apart is probably the hardest part. They make specialized tools for this, and often the sellers will include them, but it doesn't look like your purchase includes them (mine didn't either). Something plastic is the best choice, since you're less likely to cause cosmetic damage to the plastic (especially the bezel) if you slip (and you will slip). As I said before, GO SLOWLY. Work it apart a little bit at a time, alternate side to side, starting from the bottom. Eventually you'll be able to pull the 2 halves apart.
The battery will be stuck in pretty good and will need to be pried out. If I were you (and a week or so ago, I was you, I'd pop a new battery in while you're at it. At this point in the phone's life, it's probably had at least a few hundred cycles on the battery and has lost 10-20% of its original capacity. The other comments shouldn't be nearly as hard to get out. Just pry in various points until the piece pops out. Do not force anything. Just work it out slowly. After you pop off the piece that covers the USB port, there's the board that has the port, and that can be slightly tricky to get out. Best way I found is to slip something small and flat (screwdriver?) into the port and push up and out, and the board should come out easily.
Thankfully, there's only 3 different screws used, and they're all easily differentiated from each other. There's the 2 T5 TORX that hold the halves together, the 2 very short screws with wide heads that hold the battery in place, and the rest that hold everything else are all identical to each other.
It looks like on your assembly, it comes with its own adhesives. Everywhere there's a blue film, pull it off and there'll be adhesive underneath. I'd recommend leaving the film on over the part where the sensor/headphone jack module goes until you're sure you can stick it in place with the proximity sensor not acting wonky. Download an app (I used Phone Tester) that can read the prox sensor. FYI, as long as everything is in place, and you've attached the battery, you can boot the phone without replacing the back cover, and test the sensor (just depress the center bit of the power button board). You don't need to screw everything in, but you should at least screw and tighten down the few that surround the sensor area. Once you've got it reading properly (best of luck), it's time to put all back together.
You should familiarize yourself with the teardown/reassembly guides out there. Go to ifixit.com and have everything ready to look at. This is the video[/i] that I used to guide me, and I watched it through a few times before I attempted it myself. You should be just fine with your phone after familiarizing yourself, but if you have any specific problems or questions, feel free to ask, and I'm all too happy to help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome, I saw some cheaper screens but that one notes that its LG compliant etc. I bought a set of tools separately so will have all the stuff needed. Didnt think about the battery, will order one as it does make sense!
Thanks for the info, will update as I go.
If you want to have a working battery like it used to be before removing it, you have to be very patient and extra careful while trying to remove it. Use some heat for the glue and try with something very thin like a nylon guitar pick. In anyway don't bent the battery and don't start from top. It will be easier to first remove the mother board. Iv already destroyed 4 5 batteries while trying to remove them. Sorry for my English, I hope you understand.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
Sp_Ark said:
If you want to have a working battery like it used to be before removing it, you have to be very patient and extra careful while trying to remove it. Use some heat for the glue and try with something very thin like a nylon guitar pick. In anyway don't bent the battery and don't start from top. It will be easier to first remove the mother board. Iv already destroyed 4 5 batteries while trying to remove them. Sorry for my English, I hope you understand.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yea was extra careful, used a little heat. Someone has definately replaced the screen on the phone before but seems to have been careful enough as no screws missing etc, except the lost the little speaker grille
New screen in and working well. The proximity sensor seems to be working but it reports all or nothing rather than varied. Is this correct?
bert682 said:
Yea was extra careful, used a little heat. Someone has definately replaced the screen on the phone before but seems to have been careful enough as no screws missing etc, except the lost the little speaker grille
New screen in and working well. The proximity sensor seems to be working but it reports all or nothing rather than varied. Is this correct?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah this is normal.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
bert682 said:
New screen in and working well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome! See, it wasn't too bad, was it? Ifixit gives the N4 a 7/10 for repairability, and that's pretty high for them. After replacing my N4 screen, friend/coworker asked if I could do the same for his HTC One M7 with a completely shattered, yet functional digitizer. I said "HEEEEEEEEEEELL NO!"
Planterz said:
Awesome! See, it wasn't too bad, was it? Ifixit gives the N4 a 7/10 for repairability, and that's pretty high for them. After replacing my N4 screen, friend/coworker asked if I could do the same for his HTC One M7 with a completely shattered, yet functional digitizer. I said "HEEEEEEEEEEELL NO!"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, not with the correct tools. I will admit had I not bought the plastic tools, tweezers etc I may have struggled.
The battery was my main concern, its really stuck down, even though this had been replaced before and likely a less tacky glue used it was still tough. Had to use some heat to soften it and the "battery cover" has seen better days. Next thing to replace is that, just for piece of mind.
All in all, pretty nice experience, the phone seems more modular that other phones I have taken apart which is nice.