Database Users

[Q] Screen Separating from Chassis

Can anyone else see evidence of the screen separating from the chassis?
Mine is parting in the bottom left corner of the phone and the screen is starting to sit proud; see attached photos. As the glass is flat and I doubt it bends, the chassis/internals must have some residual stress from manufacture. It can be pushed back together but opens up again after a few seconds.
I'm awaiting advise from the seller (Elcell.co.uk)

Such damage

Screen Separating from Chassis
mine has the same problem.

I noticed that it is starting to get loose on my phone.
Also the T from the HTC brand on the back is getting loose.

I have the same on the topp

I don't have the problem (yet). I have my device only for 6 days...

same issue here

Thanks for pointing this out. I had my glass slightly lifted since i got this replacement unit. I thought it was just a slight misfit into the backcover. Now that you pointed this out, i notice the same peeling off on the bottom part of the glass. I press it down, and the phone got a solid feel.
Although it lifts up again after a while. The adhesive is not so strong.

Replacing the digitizer is very stressful.

I smashed the screen on my Tab a few weeks back. While I didn't take a video of the replacement, here are some notes and tips on my experience:
If the glass is cracked but you can still see the display fine (i.e. no rainbow or black ink spills) then it is just your digitizer that is broken. Your top priority at this point is to not break the LCD because the digitizer is relatively cheap (~$35 shipped from China, $60 from the US). This also goes for the picture being fine but the touch not working at all.
Buy a replacement digitizer. I got mine from ebay ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/270938561127 ).
Gather tools:
A clean towel to use for your work area to prevent scratches and scuffs
A little plastic prying tool (likely to come with your ebay order)
A thin and sharp utility knife/razor
A three prong screwdriver. The seller I used sent a few other screwdrivers but not the three prong one. I used one I got from a Nintendo DS repair a while back.
A heat gun will make this a lot easier. I guess a hair blow-dryer might work in a pinch.
I did not see any good videos for the disassembly. The one I watched ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=thTt6G27NV8 ) really screwed me over because it didn't show removing two screws first.
Here are my written steps for replacement:
Use a needle to pry out the two caps on either side of the USB charging port
Use the three prong screwdriver to remove those two screws
Insert the pry on the bottom middle between the plastic frame and the glass. Push down firmly so it wedges in up to the L shape.
Slide the pry along from the middle to either end and around the corner. You will feel the frame pop away from the innards.
Continue working the bottom half of the frame apart until you can insert tweezers or something else under the unit and lift it up and out of the frame.
Be careful to lift the bottom half then pull it out away from the top. Otherwise, you will crack the audio port which extends from the unit and fits into the hole in the top of the frame.
Set aside the frame and place the unit on a clean towel. If you have a broken screen, you are going to be dealing with lots of tiny slivers of broken glass.
On the circuitry side of the unit, you will see three big flat ribbon cables. The middle one is the digitizer. Use tweezers or the pry to *gently* lift up the tan colored plastic locking hinge on the far side (opposite the cable). It will pop up and the cable will easily slide out. Go very slow and carefully here. Don't mess with the black plastic because it will chip right off.
Now comes the painful part. Removing the old digitizer. Take a cigarette break if you need one. Maybe a Valium. Basically, almost all of the black trim part of the glass is thick strong glue binding it to the unit. You need to separate this glue to be able to peel the glass digitizer away.
Hold the unit upright with one hand and use the heat gun to loosen up the glue holding the digitizer to the unit. Run it along one edge for less than a minute until the glass is a little too hot to touch.
Quickly insert the razor as close to the glass as you can and about 6 centimeters in. Slide it along the side that you heated. Don't make any prying motions or you'll just crack the glass more.
Continue with the remaining three edges. Heat then separate. You may not make much progress the first time around, but by the second time, you should see the glass starting to peel away. It took me about 5 to 10 minutes per edge and it is grueling work.
Once you can safely peel the entire glass digitizer away from the unit, use the razor to lift up and peel off any of the flat black tape/glue that was left behind. Most of the unit where the glue goes is gray. On the sides there are two parts where you see black plastic. It is okay to leave glue residue as long as it isn't bunched up.
Vacuum up any stray glass slivers. Make sure you set aside tools screws and screw-hole-plugs before vacuuming.
Installing the new digitizer
Use an LCD spray and cleaning cloth to clean your LCD. Don't leave any dust or fingerprints as it will look bad once everything is put back together.
Remove the back covering of your replacement digitizer revealing the glue. Obviously, try not to touch the glue.
Align the digitizer above the unit, make sure the camera hole is on the correct side. Very slowly lower it down and try to have it perfectly in alignment when it touches. You will be able to nudge it a tiny bit, but the glue is strong and if you get it crooked, you are going to have to try to quickly lift it back up without cracking your new digitizer.
Once you have it in place, remove the front protective film and free the new cable. Wrap the cable around to the back and very gently insert it between the contacts then push the locking hinge down.
Testing and reassembly
Power it on and see if it works. Just push down the little metal bump closest to the edge where the power button would be on the frame.
When happy with the test, turn it off again and hold the unit above the frame.
Check the orientation then insert the top part first to fit the audio port into the hole. Line up the rest and then push down on all the edges to snap it into place.
Breathe a deep sigh of relief.

Appreciate the time you put into this, hopefully I never end up in a similar situation.
Could have used some more return key though lol
Sent from my Ceramic White LTE Galaxy Note using XDA Premium App

Wish I would have read this first. I broke the housing by the 2 bottom screws. Dayum! I haven't touched it since. Supposed to get the digitizer Friday. Wish me luck!

Its really easy to replace the digitiser on WiFi version. Use Stanley knife and hair dryer to loosen it off and remove middle flex cable. Videos on youtube
Sent from my GT-P7510 using xda app-developers app

Any picture of these 2 screws cause i do not see it on a p4 here.
I still have one here with a cracked glass but it all still works even the touch screen.
But i do not see the screw so a pic would be nice

Opuske said:
Any picture of these 2 screws cause i do not see it on a p4 here.
I still have one here with a cracked glass but it all still works even the touch screen.
But i do not see the screw so a pic would be nice
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They are covered by plugs on either side of the charge port. Gotta pry the plugs out first.
Sent from my EVO using xda premium

Ok so i am on a mission this weekend then to try and do that then

Opuske said:
Ok so i am on a mission this weekend then to try and do that then
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
One tip: be really careful not to touch the inside surface of the glass. I ended up with a fingerprint on the inside that drives me nuts every time I clean the screen. Wear gloves if you've got them.
Otherwise it was no sweat. I used this as a guide but with a hair dryer instead of a heat gun.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KUI2gDQbdDY&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Sent from my EVO using xda premium

Quick question
I really found this post very helpful, but I do have one question. What if when I was trying to pry the tab up to pull out the digitizer, I cracked the black plactic on the other side. Would this cause the new digitizer not to work when I finished replacing everything and put it back together?

Best tutorial on the web (much better than those godawful youtube videos).
Thank you!

Did u get an answer??? I need to
AylaAtreides said:
I really found this post very helpful, but I do have one question. What if when I was trying to pry the tab up to pull out the digitizer, I cracked the black plactic on the other side. Would this cause the new digitizer not to work when I finished replacing everything and put it back together?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you get an answer??? I did the same thing...

DEinspanjer said:
I smashed the screen on my Tab a few weeks back. While I didn't take a video of the replacement, here are some notes and tips on my experience:
[*]If the glass is cracked but you can still see the display fine (i.e. no rainbow or black ink spills) then it is just your digitizer that is broken. Your top priority at this point is to not break the LCD because the digitizer is relatively cheap (~$35 shipped from China, $60 from the US). This also goes for the picture being fine but the touch not working at all.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just when I thought I knew the difference between the LCD and the digitizer I read your post. You said if the glass is cracked but you can see the display just fine the digitizer is broken. When you say "see the display fine" I presume when the device is on you can see whatever it should be showing? Correct me if I am wrong. Silly me I would have thought if the glass was cracked you need the LCD. Are the glass, LCD and digitizer 3 separate parts?
Anyway on my Note 10.1 2014 edition the display suddenly went black while I was using it. All indications are the device is working because I hear notifications if I sent email to one of the accounts registered on the device. Given this limited info which part(s) do I need. The glass is pristine in that there are no cracks or scratches. Do I need the digitizer, lcd or both? How can I determine what I need for sure?
Thanks in advance,
~metafizik

The digitizer is the touch sensitive glass, the LCD is under that and it makes the pictures.
If you crack or damage the LCD, you will frequently see something that looks like an ink spill or a rainbow pattern.
If you crack or damage the digitizer, you can still see pictures fine, but some or all of it might no longer respond to touch.
In your case, it sounds like your LCD is not working, but unfortunately it is hard to say whether that is the only part that stopped working since it wasn't due to damage to the screen.

DEinspanjer said:
The digitizer is the touch sensitive glass, the LCD is under that and it makes the pictures.
In your case, it sounds like your LCD is not working, but unfortunately it is hard to say whether that is the only part that stopped working since it wasn't due to damage to the screen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for the information. I agree there is no telling what might have caused the problem especially given some other problems that proceeded this. I had recently replaced the battery and even with the new one it was draining way too quickly. I concluded it might be the ROM I was running had become corrupted because Google services was using the lions share of the battery instead of the screen. I downloaded and installed a factory Lolipop image and it was running fine for about half a day when the wife started playing around with live wallpapers we had never tried when it went black.
At this point I am reluctant to spend $ replacing the Lcd given it might be something else altogether.
Thanks again,
~metafizik

Accepting offers on my 32GB Note 10.1 2014 edition. As described above the display has gone dark but system is otherwise working fine. Includes very nice MoKo Wireless Bluetooth Keyboard Cover Case and the tablet's battery is new.

Replacing screen on LG G2.

Replacing screen on LG G2.
I ordered a LG G2 LCD digitizer pre-installed in a frame assembly off ebay and un-assembled my broken LG G2 and then re-assembled it in the new LCD/digitizer frame and everything works well, except for the fact that when I tilt the screen to the left or to the right, I can see light bleeding out near the sides. Here are some pics of the screen bleeding. It looks like the side of the frame is not attached well enough.
http://imgur.com/v476QVF
http://imgur.com/icDLXKl
To try and fix this problem I took a guitar pick and lifted up the screen a bit and used a tiny pin to apply some loctite go2 glue (recommended by someone on youtube) on the sides and used C-Clamps to clamp the screen to the frame, but when I took off the clamps (after 24 hrs) I could still see some light bleeding through, not as bad as before but it was still there.
I plan on buying a new screen without the frame attached and trying again. The question is what should I use to get the edges of the screen to stick to the frame? Super glue? Rubber cement? Rubber sealant? Epoxy?
Any help is appreciated.

RXG9 said:
Replacing screen on LG G2.
I ordered a LG G2 LCD digitizer pre-installed in a frame assembly off ebay and un-assembled my broken LG G2 and then re-assembled it in the new LCD/digitizer frame and everything works well, except for the fact that when I tilt the screen to the left or to the right, I can see light bleeding out near the sides. Here are some pics of the screen bleeding. It looks like the side of the frame is not attached well enough.
http://imgur.com/v476QVF
http://imgur.com/icDLXKl
To try and fix this problem I took a guitar pick and lifted up the screen a bit and used a tiny pin to apply some loctite go2 glue (recommended by someone on youtube) on the sides and used C-Clamps to clamp the screen to the frame, but when I took off the clamps (after 24 hrs) I could still see some light bleeding through, not as bad as before but it was still there.
I plan on buying a new screen without the frame attached and trying again. The question is what should I use to get the edges of the screen to stick to the frame? Super glue? Rubber cement? Rubber sealant? Epoxy?
Any help is appreciated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
can you post the link of the seller you bought the new lcd/digitizer from? my screen is cracked and the top 1/4 is unresponsive, i just want to know exactly what to buy!
ive been watching youtube videos and one person used double-sided tape and wrapped it around the edges of the phone.

Hello /u/Silent-Scope

Replaced the display on my S5.

As a photographer, I especially apologize for the lack of photos of the process... this is a story of my S5 getting broken and repaired.​
I left my S5 on the hood of my girlfriends Jeep while cleaning up the dog's feet and being distracted, I forgot to grab my phone. Driving down the canyon road 50mph back home, noticed something thunk off of the front of the car... yep it was my phone. It was in an Otterbox Defender series case.
Upon inspection, I was very impressed to find the phone in very good condition. The front glass totally unbroken with no scratches, the only visible damage was a scuff on the chrome of the top right corner and what looked like a tread mark from the tire. The otterbox case looked very good as well, it took some damage where the tire marks were on the upper right.
The phone's internal display took too much shock/flex and was shattered but still hard a partially visible image and the digitizer worked fine. I ordered a new display around $150, it came with a pre-installed homebutton/fingerprint scanner module. The display I ordered was pre-owned in a+ condition, so it had the old factory adhesives stuck to it.
I removed the small plastic cover on the rear to unplug the home-button cable, removed the old display using a heatgun to ease up the adhesive and it come off pretty smoothly (start at the top from the earpiece), you have plenty of room to get tools behind the screen to unplug the display's flex cable and pull the home-button's cable free.
I was impressed in how well adhered the glass is and how the home-button works, very waterproof design. The metal frame has a texture etched into it to promote even better adhesion.
-I carefully removed the old adhesive from the new display and from the frame. I used alcohol and microfiber rags and took my time, both parts come very clean with some fingernail force and patience. I applied the new adhesive, this part was very easy, the applicator-design the adhesive comes packaged in makes it a breeze to line up and entirely avoid wrinkles or mishaps. I'll link what adhesive I used, it seemed to be factory OEM and ridiculously sticky stuff, several times more powerful and pliable than the 3m strip-tape.
I made a double-check that the frame adhesion area was clean and began to hook the connectors back up, plugged the home button and LCD connector back in, I started applying the screen from the earpiece (earpiece metal fits through the hole in the glass to make lining up perfectly easy. and pressed the entire display into place. Bam, brand new. That adhesive WORKS perfectly. It grabs and holds, very tight. I feel very confident that the phone still carries its same waterproof spec.
I hope this helps any others with broken screens that want to bring their S5 back to life and to be unafraid to dig into this yourself.
Tips:
-You can likely use a hair dryer to heat up the old display when removing, feel it with your hands, don't get it so hot that you can't keep your fingers on it for a few seconds, you don't want to damage your earpiece, front sensors, camera, etc.
-When removing the old adhesive from a good-used display, use plastic to scrape at it, metal will remove the black dye and make scratched in the bezel around the screen.
-The capacitive sensors for Recents and Back have tabs that allow you to push them into the frame of the phone before applying the new screen, makes it much easier to align and worry-free.
The adhesive comes from Ebay seller diy_iparts "Pre-Cut Adhesive Tape for Samsung Galaxy S5"
(unsure if I'm allowed to post direct links to ebay) I am giving you this information because I read that a lot of pre-cut adhesives from other sources are bad quality and not up to OEM spec, made of totally different materials, etc. This won't matter too much if you aren't worried about the water resistance of your phone and the display sitting perfectly flush to the frame.

[GUIDE] Repair torn earpiece speaker membrane

This may be of very limited use but I believe I'm far from the only one still using this device and the torn speaker membrane is very common.
Prerequisites:
Moto G3 with torn speaker membrane, preferably in need of replacement screen
Donor Moto G3
Standard tools for disassembly (see iFixit etc. for reaching the point where you have the screen removed)
As this requires removing the LCD it's hardly worth doing unless you have a cracked screen that needs replacing. In my case I had a device with various issues, bought another device with a broken screen but otherwise functioning, and simply swapped screens. You can get spares & repairs Moto G3s for very little (<£15/$15).
Ideally your donor screen doesn't have a torn membrane. If it does, as in my case, you can do the following to repair it:
The entire grille/ membrane is stuck to the glass from the inside.
Carefully run a sharp knife underneath the hard silver plastic and lever it out.
The plastic membrane is actually 2 sheets. Use a knife, fingernail, tweezers etc. starting at the edge to peel the first layer away: it is a thin tranparent plastic sheet surrounding the hole. You don't need to worry about removing cleanly, you won't need these any more.
Then do the same on the grey membrane, which is thicker and held on more securely, requiring more force to remove.
Now remove the entire bottom main speaker grille part from the your broken screen (i.e. whichever screen you'll no longer be using)
This simply has some sort of material mesh-like grille which can be peeled off carefully.
Once removed, align the edge of the material with your earpiece speaker piece and stick on. The mesh is longer so you have to trim the end off with scissors.
You now have a new earpiece speaker grille, with a cloth-like membrane like the main speaker grille, rather than the original plastic membrane.
This can now be replaced as the glue should still hold.
Hope this helps somebody despite being a rather convoluted process. Waterproofing not tested yet! And note the battery light is not diffused as before so appears brighter.

Great write up and thanks for taking the time to post

Nice one even I tore but no issues facing on speaker
Do u have any image or video on doing this !!

ceanosri said:
Do u have any image or video on doing this !!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I could add some pics of the parts if that would help? Didn't think to take pics during the process unfortunately