Related
For some reason, every couple of days when I plug my phone in to charge the battery overnight I end up getting an alert (about 4 in the morning!) to change the battery because mine is dead, along with the back up battery, and then the phone shuts off within about a minute. Luckily I have another battery, which I then put in, and then put the dead battery in the "back up battery" slot in the cradle to charge, which it does. I don't know why this happens but it is very frustrating. I am afraid of this happening on a trip out of town where I won't have the ability to use my cradle, unless I bring it which is a big hassle. I don't know what to do.
This IS vexing. By the fact that it charges the extra battery - we know that the power transformer is connected. Since the device does not seem to be charging (possibly even discharging?) - it seems that either the connector on the charging base or the connector on the device itself are bad.
Have you used the power dongle connected to the power transformer to attempt to charge the device? This would tell you if it's the charging base or the device. If it charges outside of the base, it's the base - if not, it's the device.
Best of luck!
How are you charging the battery - from mains power or through the USB?
I had a situation where I was only using USB power to the cradle and although this worked most of the time, I noticed that if the battery was already low (<50%) then the battery seemed to discharge rather than charge.
So the trigger in your case may be the amount of charge left in the battery before you start re-charging it.
I think other people have reported similar discharging situations, so some other ideas might emerge from a search of other threads.
Ok I am a new member to this whole PocketPC thing since I just purchased my first PocketPC which is an i-mate JASJAM. I honestly think that it's a great product with a lot of features and potential. My problem though, lies in the fact that I haven't had the chance to enjoy it for a full day yet. Ever since I bought it, I always charge it for like 7 to 8 hours, even though it fills up after like 3, but i leave it on charge anyway, because I was told that "that's what you should do!".
Anyways, no matter how long I leave it on the charger, once i take it off the battery begins to drain like there's no tomorrow. I'm talking about going from 100% to 0% within 5 hours, while on FLIGHT MODE. If I turn the screen off then it might last for an extra hour.
Surely this can't be something normal, and I have been beating my brain trying to find a solution. As far as ActiveSync goes, I did the tweak that stops its automatic scheduled syncs, hoping that it would be the problem, but to my disappointment, no luck. Also made sure that no programs were running in the background. It came with a battery with a capacity of 1300mAh and then I bought another one hoping it was a problem with the battery. The new one had a capacity of 1350mAh, not much of a difference but it was all I could find. But there's no difference between them whatsoever, when it comes to battery life.
My first question is whether it is possible that this may be a software issue rather than a hardware issue (such as a power leak)?
If it is, then would upgrading the ROM or Radio or upgrading to WM6 make any difference?
Problem's that I don't have the phone on me right now so I can't give ROM or ExtROM versions etc., but I do know that it is running WM5 with AKU 2.3 and Radio is either 1.21 or 1.31.
N.B.: Until I get this issue sorted out, I am using a Nokia 6680 which has an average battery life of 3 days (72 hours), so should I be expecting something in the vicinity with my i-mate?
Well it sounds as if you've done all the obvious things. There is a power saving registry tweak in the wiki somewhere but that should not be necessary just to bring it to normal power consumption. If I don't use mine much (not on flight mode) I'll get a couple of days at least.
A ROM change might help a little but if you have a warranty I'd be tempted to use it. Radio change is unlikely to change things if you have been testing in flight mode.
Anybody else got ideas?
Mike
The only problem that I have with getting it fixed or replaced under warranty is that I have to send it to another country. So I am trying everything I can do before going through that hassle. So is there any test that I can carry out at home, or a certain diagnostics software that can test the phone for me?
Would a digital multimeter help if i can measure the current being drawn from the battery? What should the current rating be for the phone, is it 1A? Because there is one other interesting thing i found while just snooping around, there is a sticker that just has 5VDC and 1A written on it, and it's stuck to the phone under where the battery goes. I can only imagine that this is the voltage and current rating for the phone. The interesting part is that the battery that came with it, as well as the one i bought are both 3.7V batteries.
:-S
Best to just update your phone.... But becareful! read and research on flashing b 4 you do it... VERY IMPORTANT... USE only softwares for your phone...
I wanna make sure that anything i do doesn't void my warranty as well.
Used their offical update for your phone... However, my friend brick his phone and sent it back to the company and they replace it for him... I dunno if you would have that luck however... if ur careful and read all the information... and ur computer is stable... you shouldnt worry about it bricking ur phone...
jlaham said:
The only problem that I have with getting it fixed or replaced under warranty is that I have to send it to another country. So I am trying everything I can do before going through that hassle. So is there any test that I can carry out at home, or a certain diagnostics software that can test the phone for me?
Would a digital multimeter help if i can measure the current being drawn from the battery? What should the current rating be for the phone, is it 1A? Because there is one other interesting thing i found while just snooping around, there is a sticker that just has 5VDC and 1A written on it, and it's stuck to the phone under where the battery goes. I can only imagine that this is the voltage and current rating for the phone. The interesting part is that the battery that came with it, as well as the one i bought are both 3.7V batteries.
:-S
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The ratings you see written inside and the battery ratings are just standard - nothing unusual there. You could test current draw etc but even if you find it a little high it doesn't really help you to pin down a problem save to say it's the phone and not the battery. However as you have two batteries it's fairly reasonable to say it's not the battery. (reasonable but not impossible of course that two batteries are not working as they should).
Unfortunately we do not yet have our hands on the test file that HTC use.
Mike
I guess I have no choice but to get it shipped back. Thanks for your help guys.
Are you using a wall charger or a trickle-charger such as the USB Cable? The wall charger is the only way to truly charge it to full.
If you are using a USB charger or other trickle charger, after the device says it is fully charged remove it from the charger for about 2 minutes and then reconnect it. It will then charge (most of) the rest of the way.
If you don't do this, the problems gets worse and worse. After 1 day, the trickle charger may get you up to a 90% charge. After two days, 80%, etc. After a week you'll only be holding half a charge, even though the device is reporting a full charge while on the charger.
Another tip I have found is to perform a soft-reset after removing it from the charger, particularly if it has been plugged in for a long time at full charge (more than an hour or so). It seems like the device doesn't always detect that it has been unplugged and tries to suck down juice as if it were still plugged in. If you have noticed that your device gets pretty hot when the battery drains quickly, this is probably what is happening to you.
You also haven't mentioned the programs that you are using during the day. Some programs, particularly chat clients, will drain the battery in about 5 hours, though obviously you're not using anything like this while in flight mode.
One more thing. You noted that you were told that leaving it on the charger whenever possible is the thing to do. This is incorrect. The more the battery is exercised in this way, the shorter the lifespan of the battery will be. With any PocketPC device we're all bound to charge it every night, but once it is charged you want to take it off the charger. A battery being fully charged is just as bad as a battery being fully drained, so you want to keep it somewhere in between as much as possible.
My battery doesn't last either.
I've ordered an extended life battery with its own back.
I've also ordered a car charger.
I also carry my old hiptop with me when I need to switch sims.
Apparently touchscreen phones that do so much, ie. bluetooth and wifi, eat batteries.
Doom Tints said:
Are you using a wall charger or a trickle-charger such as the USB Cable? The wall charger is the only way to truly charge it to full.
If you are using a USB charger or other trickle charger, after the device says it is fully charged remove it from the charger for about 2 minutes and then reconnect it. It will then charge (most of) the rest of the way.
If you don't do this, the problems gets worse and worse. After 1 day, the trickle charger may get you up to a 90% charge. After two days, 80%, etc. After a week you'll only be holding half a charge, even though the device is reporting a full charge while on the charger.
Another tip I have found is to perform a soft-reset after removing it from the charger, particularly if it has been plugged in for a long time at full charge (more than an hour or so). It seems like the device doesn't always detect that it has been unplugged and tries to suck down juice as if it were still plugged in. If you have noticed that your device gets pretty hot when the battery drains quickly, this is probably what is happening to you.
You also haven't mentioned the programs that you are using during the day. Some programs, particularly chat clients, will drain the battery in about 5 hours, though obviously you're not using anything like this while in flight mode.
One more thing. You noted that you were told that leaving it on the charger whenever possible is the thing to do. This is incorrect. The more the battery is exercised in this way, the shorter the lifespan of the battery will be. With any PocketPC device we're all bound to charge it every night, but once it is charged you want to take it off the charger. A battery being fully charged is just as bad as a battery being fully drained, so you want to keep it somewhere in between as much as possible.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow, I am very surprised to hear some of these. First of all, are you sure that using the usb charger kills your battery capacity so fast? I mean, I almost always charge my phone with the usb charger and it seems to be quite fine. Of course once in a while I charge it with the wall charger when I am in a hurry. But I was thinking that charging it with the usb will be better as it charges slowly.
Also I usually keep my phone plugged to the usb. Indeed, I already ordered a desktop cradle so that I can see the screen while it is being charged. Is it a bad idea to keep it cradled all the time? This is what I did with my Dell Axim all the time and it was quite happy with it.
The process of charging/draining modern batteries won't shorten their lifespans. However, having a chargable battery at full charge or at no charge are both bad and both will reduce the lifespan of the battery.
So no, you shouldn't leave it plugged in/cradled all the time.
The problem with trickle chargers is altogether different. They just won't always charge a battery to its full capacity -- so in this way they are actually better for long-term battery health. This is why I said that if you want to get a full charge off of a trickle charger, you have to (usually) take it off the charger and put it back on when the device reports that it is fully charged. After unplugging the trickle-charger you'll get a new battery reading on the device which will usually be anywhere between 60% and 90%. You can then put it back on the charger until it shows full again.
Deleted, invalid, i didnt read the whole post.
Well, it seems that i was just unlucky with my buy. Thanks to all of you first of all for all your support it really did help me learn more about PPC's in general, and it also made me sure that there is a problem with the phone. I sat through what i like to call a debugging session, just following the phone's every "move". I know, sounds kinda crazy but i was just that determined. What i realised was that whether i performed the soft-reset or not, it still had a problem, even though the solution did sound very promising.
This is what happened, charged it to 100%. I also tried charging it a little more later, but that was it, so i'm pretty sure that the capacity was right. After detaching it i performed the softreset, hoping that it would help. Then i just left it over night on flight mode. Next morning it had only decreased to 90%. GREAT! And it felt rather normal, but then about an hour later, it jumped down to 80%, 70%, 60%, then 50%. Then when I held it, it felt pretty hot, i figured that whatever was the problem earlier, just happened again. So I turned it off for a few hours then turned it on again and it started off on 40%. As before seemed to be performing quite normal, then within a minute it heated up again and jumped down to 20%. And that was when i just lost my nerve and packed it to send it back to my retailer.
I am now convinced that the phone is faulty!
Yes, it very well might be.
My device has drained suddenly a few times, with the exact same heat problems that you're describing when it happens. A soft reset for me when this occured fixed it -- and it hasn't happened for months.
But as we all know the same solutions don't work for all people with HTC devices.
I just had the same sort of problem. I've been using my TyTN for several months now under Dutty's WM6, and only just flashed Schaps 3.60 a few days ago.
It worked fine the first couple of days, but now I'm having the dreaded 5hr battery life too.
I had had that a couple of times before, but it was always related to some software, and a soft reset would cure it like Doom Tints said above. The problem is that here, either this or a power-off and reboot doesn't change a thing.
It's clearly a software problem too. I use UpTime Meter from AE, and I can see that the PocketPC simply doesn't turn into standby mode, but only deactivates the screen. In UpTime, the power on time will always be equal to the time since last charge, which means the PocketPC is on all the time. In that case the 5h battery life makes sense.
Would there be a way to find out why it doesn't enter standby mode (which software blocks it up), or force it into it? It would be good to find something as I'm nearly sure this is the reason for most if not all of the cases of short battery life we see around. Without having the meter there's simply no way to realise that the thing just stays on...
Doom Tints said:
The process of charging/draining modern batteries won't shorten their lifespans. However, having a chargable battery at full charge or at no charge are both bad and both will reduce the lifespan of the battery.
So no, you shouldn't leave it plugged in/cradled all the time.
The problem with trickle chargers is altogether different. They just won't always charge a battery to its full capacity -- so in this way they are actually better for long-term battery health. This is why I said that if you want to get a full charge off of a trickle charger, you have to (usually) take it off the charger and put it back on when the device reports that it is fully charged. After unplugging the trickle-charger you'll get a new battery reading on the device which will usually be anywhere between 60% and 90%. You can then put it back on the charger until it shows full again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your good man, Phone has been charging for about four hours and it didnt go up more than 40% so I unpluged the phone and turned it off and on and then it went up to 80% and now its recharging it again. Thanks
Battery discharge and heating up
kilrah said:
I just had the same sort of problem. I've been using my TyTN for several months now under Dutty's WM6, and only just flashed Schaps 3.60 a few days ago.
...
Would there be a way to find out why it doesn't enter standby mode (which software blocks it up), or force it into it? It would be good to find something as I'm nearly sure this is the reason for most if not all of the cases of short battery life we see around. Without having the meter there's simply no way to realise that the thing just stays on...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Since I had my hermes, a few times it would get very hot and discharge the battery, and I assumed I was turning it on in my pocket and running a program. But now it does this continually. As soon as I take it off the charger it discharges and gets hot. This even happens if the phone is powered off.
I have borrowed a battery of someone else and the same thing happens
I have also hard reset it and have nothing installed extra, so it can not be software problem.
Must be a short circuit inside the phone? Does anyone have any ideas? I can't send it back as it is a Cingular and I live in the UK and have no support contract.
Thanks,
Mark
I managed to investigate and find the culprit - A2DP Toggle in my case. Whenever its Today plugin is enabled, it will prevent the phone from entering standby. Deactivate it - no uninstallation needed - and it returns to normal. Weird as it had been working perfectly for about a week, and I haven't done any change when it started acting weird.
Now it kinda defeats the plugin's purpose if I have to deactivate it everytime...
@simkin: If it drains the battery even powered off completely that's most likely a hardware problem. Does it happen too if you remove the battery and put it again without turning the phone on (as opposed to having the phone on and turning it off with a long press on the the power button)?
There could be a slight chance that the phone actually starts booting and gets stuck there draining power. As a last solution I'd try flashing it with a different ROM, but if that fails it's most likely a hardware fault.
I'm having battery trouble too, I switched to WM6 with a full battery that lasted for about 24 hours and it became 7-8 hours, so I switched back to my previous ROM and Radio ver and it still says I only get 7-8 hours average, I'm gonna try to hard reset it on more time, and then i'm just gonna try a new battery.
Last week I was traveling, and I ran the battery on my 8125 dry. I got the unit to boot twice, but only for a few seconds, then it blinked out again. It never got past the initial screen. No big deal, I thought, I just charge it at the next opportunity. But when I hooked up the charger, nothing happened. No charging light, and no charging (left unit on charger overnight, tried 3 different chargers). Took the unit to an AT&T store, but they don't sell batteries. Fortunately, the clerk used the same phone and took the battery out of his and put it in my 8125. The unit booted, and when he connected a charger, the charging light came on and charged the phone. I moved it directly to a car charger, and the phone has been fine since then.
Did HTC build in a catch-22 here? When the battery is totally empty, you can't boot the phone and it will not go into charge mode?
Is there perhaps a way around this, other than having a spare battery that has to be kept in a charged state?
If you read around this thread, there are LOTS of posts about this. Yes, the battery in the 8125 is goofy. It'll crap out at you if the power goes below (and I'm recalling from memory, so this may be wrong) 5% of full charge.
Don't drain your battery completely. I usually shut my phone off around 10-15% and only power it when absolutely necessary until it's been recharged. If you drain it dead, it typically won't charge unless you use your AC adapter charger, or in rare cases your car charger. USB doesn't provide enough juice to jump over the dead-battery hurdle. Apparently, in your case, that wasn't even enough.
The best things you can do for yourself is show the actual battery strength on your today screen somewhere (doesn't matter how, or with what). Use something that shows the actual battery strength in linear value, not logarithmic value. This will help keep you from accidentally draining it. Also, like you said, buy a spare battery. My usage isn't that high, I can usually go 2-3 days without charging, but if you're draining it daily, an extra battery is a near absolute requirement.
This is usual for these phones. When battery goes dry it's very hard to charge it. You can wake battery up with atx power supply or similar with 5volt output. Just connect wire from power supply +5 volt line(red wire) to battery + and second wire from power supply ground line(black wire) to battery -. Power on atx power. After 1-2 min your battery is alive and you can boot up your phone and charge a battery.
Guys, I'm hoping someone familiar with LiPo battery charging can give me some insight. I've done some diagnostics, and I'd like your take...
- Nexus 7 3G, purchased a few weeks ago. 4.2.1, not rooted, stock charger and cable
- Battery life seems good, fully charges and discharges 'normally'
- I usually charge with the device powered off (ie: blocky battery icon in the middle of the screen).
However....
- On two occasions now, I've left it on the charger for a long time (>15 hours) and have come back to a dead device.
- Pressing the power button doesn't bring up the blocky battery icon.
- Holding the power button for 30+ seconds brings the device back back.
- It has otherwise never failed to boot properly during normal use.
Out of curiosity, I was wondering if there was something wrong with the charging process causing this, so
- I plugged the stock charger into my Kill-A-Watt last night to monitor the charging current.
- Even 8 hours after the device finished charging (via the blocky icon), the current never dropped to zero - it stuck around 10mA on the AC side (ie: ~1.2W).
- My first N7 (sent back for a bad speaker and dead pixels) went to zero after charging. My iPad does the same.
QUESTION(S):
I know modern LiPo batteries have internal circuitry to prevent overcharging, but does it sound like that circuitry might be defective on mine such that I should be worried about overcharging? Could that be the reason for my lockups?
I really don't want to go through the return process again if I don't have to. I'd rather just live with it if I can prevent damage by taking it off the charger when complete. Thoughts? Opinions? Have any of you done this test, and if so, does yours go to zero?
Thanks for any insight!
developer_john said:
However....
- On two occasions now, I've left it on the charger for a long time (>15 hours) and have come back to a dead device.
- Pressing the power button doesn't bring up the blocky battery icon.
- Holding the power button for 30+ seconds brings the device back back.
- It has otherwise never failed to boot properly during normal use.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That might be a possible cause... Leaving any device plugged in the charger for long periods of time is not recommended. Anyway have you tried charging the tablet with another charger with a higher output? If it refuses to turn on even after holding the power button for 30 seconds you might be able to "wake" it up by using a higher output charger. Thats what I did on my Nexus 7 when the battery level went too low.
cr0wnest said:
That might be a possible cause... Leaving any device plugged in the charger for long periods of time is not recommended. Anyway have you tried charging the tablet with another charger with a higher output? If it refuses to turn on even after holding the power button for 30 seconds you might be able to "wake" it up by using a higher output charger. Thats what I did on my Nexus 7 when the battery level went too low.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmmm...everything I've read has indicated that Lithium Ion/Polymer batteries can be left on a charger without damage since they have internal circuitry to prevent overcharging (although I realize a constant topping off is probably not wise in the long run). As for a charger with a higher output, I thought the stock charger was 2.1A....I've never heard of a 3A or 4A USB charger. Can you clarify what you mean?
Also, as I said, on the two occasions it has locked up, holding the power button has brought it back, so I'm not really asking about how to get it back if it locks up - I'm asking if the behavior (locking up, charge current not dropping to 0) is indicative of a battery that has faulty overcharge protection.
Thanks though!
The "charger" IC inside the N7 not only charges the battery but at the same time powers the device - it should allow use of a N7 with no or a faulty battery. I've never looked at the standby settings on the N7 but I would suggest that is where your 1W is going. The only info about the IC I know is http://www.summitmicro.com/prod_select/summary/SMB347/SMB347.htm
Added I think this is an identical TI version of the chip http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/slusaw5a/slusaw5a.pdf
peterk-1 said:
The "charger" IC inside the N7 not only charges the battery but at the same time powers the device - it should allow use of a N7 with no or a faulty battery. I've never looked at the standby settings on the N7 but I would suggest that is where your 1W is going. The only info about the IC I know is http://www.summitmicro.com/prod_select/summary/SMB347/SMB347.htm
Added I think this is an identical TI version of the chip http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/slusaw5a/slusaw5a.pdf
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks - that's good info. However, since I have been charging with the device off, it would seem to me that it shouldn't be drawing any standby current...unless just the act of charging puts the unit in a form of standby. It also still doesn't explain why my first unit went to 0A a while after charging completed, while this one doesn't. I'm now wondering if I may be looking at roundoff error. The resolution of the kill-a-watt is .01A - which is what I'm seeing. It could just be that both units drew some current after charge completion, but this one pulls marginally more.
So, my question still stands. Does anyone familiar with LiPo technology know if this sounds like my overcharge protection circuitry is faulty? Is it normal for a device that has completed charging to draw SOME current, and if so, how much? Would someone else with a Kill-A-Watt be willing to try this and let me know what you see?
Thanks again for the help guys...
Just in case anyone is still following this thread, I have some new info. I charged my N7 last night POWERED ON.....and after charging was complete, the AC current draw went to 0A. I'm starting to wonder now whether the 1.2W constant power I saw when charging powered off is the power needed to keep the charging circuitry alive while the tablet is powered off. When the device is powered on, maybe this circuitry is running off the battery allowing the AC draw to go to 0A. I have absolutely nothing to support this, so it's just a guess/hypothesis, but at least I know my N7 is behaving the same as my first one. I also loaded Simple Battery Logger while doing my last charge and all looks normal....it charged up to about 4.208V, indicated 'full', then the voltage start dropping off - which tells me that it stopped charging. It also maintained a temp of about 23C throughout the process. I'm running a battery test right now and it doesn't seem to have been damaged by my overnight charging episodes...if anything, the battery life is better than when I first got it.
I'm going to let it go here and assume all is well. If anyone does any experiments with theirs, I'd be interested in seeing the results.
Thanks again!
I have a 11th Gen 32GB FIre HD10. I use the tablet daily. Yesterday, I noticed that it is not charging. The charge symbol (lightning bolt battery) is still seen but the charge just isn't going up. I charged it for hours and it is still at 64%. I tried switch power supply and USB-C cable. At one point, it went to 65% but stopped. If I use it without plugging in, the battery will go down. And it will not go back up again through charge. Tried reboot. Power cycle. No difference. I have Fire Toolbox installed so the firmware isn't auto updating (since November 2021).
I am at lost right now. Is there a way to fix it without factory reset?
May be a battery failure, a port pcb failure is the next most likely cause.
A factory reset will likely just waste your time.
If the battery capacity has been declining and especially if it decreased a lot in the last month or two, it's almost certainly a battery failure.
Any swelling is a failure, if so replace immediately.
The tablet can tell it is charging and battery indicator appears to indicate the activity (by decreasing). It just seems that the charging circuit is faulty. But then, I have not come across any similar behavior through search.
nookin said:
The tablet can tell it is charging and battery indicator appears to indicate the activity (by decreasing). It just seems that the charging circuit is faulty. But then, I have not come across any similar behavior through search.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do not charge with the screen on as it will skew the charge curve.
It may be the power controller circuit but more than likely it's either the cable, the charger, the battery or the port pcb if it has one.
blackhawk said:
Do not charge with the screen on as it will skew the charge curve.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately, that is the only way that I can use the tablet now. I fear that once battery dropped too low (e.g. 5% or less), it will refuse to boot and I will not be able to use the tablet even if I have it plugged in because the battery % will not go up.
How to maximize battery life: Charging habits and other tips
If you've ever wondered what the best way to charge your battery is, here are some scientifically proven tips for maximizing battery life.
www.androidauthority.com
nookin said:
Unfortunately, that is the only way that I can use the tablet now. I fear that once battery dropped too low (e.g. 5% or less), it will refuse to boot and I will not be able to use the tablet even if I have it plugged in because the battery % will not go up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Back it up now if it isn't...
back it up and replace.
I can think of something to try.
I have one old HP TouchPad that I have to charge this way.
First off, make sure you have a known good USB-C cable. I had one that was not uni-directional, I would only work when inserted one way. I'd try connecting it to a PC with the cable and see if it is connected. It might even give you the warning that it is connected to a low power charger...
Scrounge up a couple of lower power charging bricks, say around 2w or less, and power OFF the tablet,
Connect up the tablet and see what happens.
On my one TouchPad I have to use a low power wall wart to get it to charge. It won't even charge on the wireless cradle.
It will also charge off a PC at times.
Good Luck!
My problem went away awhile after a period of not charging. But the charging problem returned. I think the battery is charging but for some reasons, it is not reflecting it in percentage. On the other hand, the percentage is falling while it is in use.
The thing about the Fire Tablet is that there appears to be no way to charge it with tablet powered off. As soon as it is plugged it, it will power on.
6 weeks passed. I still have the same issue. Basically, the battery indicator is incorrect.
My Fire HD10 is still being charged and appears to hold a charge even for long period of use. But often times, the battery percentage will stop well before 100%. The exact number where it stopped increasing changes from time to time. It could be 41% today and it could be 33% tomorrow.
I have tried using it til it shut off. I recall that I can charge it back to 100% but the issue will return.
I need to make a tough choice. I am still on pre-7.3.2.2 firmware with Fire Toolbox. If I send the tablet back for "repair", I will most likely get back a refurbished one running 7.3.2.2+. But I also want my battery issue resolved.
nookin said:
6 weeks passed. I still have the same issue. Basically, the battery indicator is incorrect.
My Fire HD10 is still being charged and appears to hold a charge even for long period of use. But often times, the battery percentage will stop well before 100%. The exact number where it stopped increasing changes from time to time. It could be 41% today and it could be 33% tomorrow.
I have tried using it til it shut off. I recall that I can charge it back to 100% but the issue will return.
I need to make a tough choice. I am still on pre-7.3.2.2 firmware with Fire Toolbox. If I send the tablet back for "repair", I will most likely get back a refurbished one running 7.3.2.2+. But I also want my battery issue resolved.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A sensor on the mobo may have failed.
Observe what the battery voltages are with the shown battery percentage.
If the voltages don't match the percentage then it may not be hardware...
On an Li the voltage between fully discharged and fully charge aren't that much, around 1 volt or so like on a Samsung 4.25 volt battery.
I had the same problem with my 2021 Fire 10 tablet. I eventually realized it was not charging while connected to 5GHz WIFI. If I turn WIFI off or connect using the 2.4GHz band, it starts charging again. The 5GHz connection had become unmetered for some reason. Deleting the connection and making a new one as metered solved the problem, temporarily. Not sure how it is getting changed to unmetered. Really annoying bug.