Does anyone know how to remove small scratches from our screen?
I made a very small scratch accidentally while I was removing the paint covering the ffc hole.
Also does anyone know exactly what type of black paint t-mobile used to paint the hole? If we can figure the color out anyone who needs to send their phone in for repairs can just paint it again and remove the camera.
Sooooo any thoughts?
nothing huh.. x.x
since the glass is actually a ceramic, I'd say you're going to be hard pressed to remove a scratch. I'm not sure though, but you might try a clear acrylic to fill the scratch. I don't know on the other part.
Clear acrylic won't fix the scratch because acrylic has a different refractive index than glass.
Your only options are to either polish the scratch (not likely), or learn to live with it.
There might be glass repair products out there, but I don't know of any
gotya, thanks.. do you believe it will make a big impact once i get the camera installed? like ruin the image.
you can try dry mustard and vinegar mixed together, apply and buff (attach a q-tip to a dremel)...
MichaelB91 said:
gotya, thanks.. do you believe it will make a big impact once i get the camera installed? like ruin the image.
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Doubtful, the scratch is going to be so close to the low resolution lens that I think you won't even be able to tell.
thanks you
Removing glass scratches
Removing glass scratches are tricky. I posted before how to polish plastic. The same is true with glass only there are no solvents that degrade glass so no worries there (couple of acids do but you can't buy).
Here is what you need to do :
1. Mask off EVERYTHING you do not want touched
2. then you can use a dremel with a small buffing wheel or puff ball (you can get @ home depot or Lowes... etc
3. I would use fine polishing compound and then High gloss compound (you can get from an auto body shop (the same for buffing out a newly painted car)
4. Be VERY careful not to heat up the surface or you can crack the glass.
Finally, this will take awhile (maybe as long as an hour) and if the scratch is deep it will warp the surface and make some of the display deformed looking so look at it carefully and decide if this is worth the effort.
The other crap on the market that are fillers, really do not work for small scratches like this. they are designed for larger blemishes, so the chances of these staying in place are slim to never
hope that helps
Not sure what kind of paint was originally over the camera opening but I imagine nail polish would be an effective (and cheap) substitute. With an amount so small would someone notice the difference?
I'm just going to wait and see if the camera can see clearly through it, and ill decide what do to after that.
Thank you (everyone) for all the help. I really appreciate it
Related
I know its vain... but I scratched on the bezel of my 8525 the first day I bought it and staring at it is really starting to annoy me. Its the bezel part that starts above the call buttons and goes up the right side and then along the top.
Does anyone know if it is made from real brushed aluminum or is it plastic made to look like brushed aluminum? If its real, I'm going to dremel the scratch away... if its plastic and I try doing that... it will only make it much worse.
Thanks for any help on this.
EDIT: Does anyone have a dead 8525 or even just the front part they want to get rid of for cheap? I figure I could replace the bezel as well. Thanks again.
I'm not sure how does the fake plastic goes, but aluminum is a electric conductor, you can try and see if it gets electric passed through it? Still, fake plastic may be a conductor as well (i.e. uses aluminum powder to make it shiny). Anyway, if it was to be aluminum, it should be cold to the touch.
BTW, when you said "dremel the scratch away", how do you do that? I had a big one on my Wizard too, it is definitely aluminum here. Also, I have an old SStell watch that I would like to get the scratch off
Sure feels like METAL. One thing to fix smaller scratches on metal, try eraser for ink, it's slightly abrasive.
hanmin said:
I'm not sure how does the fake plastic goes, but aluminum is a electric conductor, you can try and see if it gets electric passed through it? Still, fake plastic may be a conductor as well (i.e. uses aluminum powder to make it shiny). Anyway, if it was to be aluminum, it should be cold to the touch.
BTW, when you said "dremel the scratch away", how do you do that? I had a big one on my Wizard too, it is definitely aluminum here. Also, I have an old SStell watch that I would like to get the scratch off
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I am fairly skillful with a dremel. I was thinking I would us a fine grained dremel brush and brush along the grain. Basically, it would be recessing that part of the bezel down to the depth of the scratch (it is uneven new and the scratch is located at a slightly elevated position which would be perfect for this). This would only work for slight scratches.
I know this
It dents like aluminum. I dropped mine last winter, and it put some scratches and dents int it... well the dents curve into the hole, which plastic would just shear and have a grooved edge, it wouldn't bend. So My vote is metal.
jompao said:
Sure feels like METAL. One thing to fix smaller scratches on metal, try eraser for ink, it's slightly abrasive.
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I hunting for an erasable ink pen right now. Thanks.
tsunami982 said:
I hunting for an erasable ink pen right now. Thanks.
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People use it to take care of small scratches on fine watches, so I'm guessing it will work here to. Obviously you need to use it direction of the "brushed" direction of the metal.
You can stumble on interesting stuf on the net.
I 've read people were removing branding from phones with a sugar cube. Abrasive enough to remove screen printed branding but not enough to scratch the plastic. Not to say that trick will work on Hermes.
(Not sure if there has been a post about this, apologies if there has.)
Just wanted to let everyone know that I had a fairly big scratched area, right where I write the letters for the Letter Recogniser SIP which was very annoying as it prevented the stylus from gliding smoothly. I heard that I should use Brasso (~£1.30 from your local supermarket) on the screen and it has been VERY successful. It's completely removed the scratch.
Just apply a small amount with a cotton-bud and work into the screen in circlular motion (press harder for deeper scratches). Keep doing this for about 10-15 times or until the scratch disappears.
Hope this helps anyone with screen scratches or anyone wondering about using Brasso but too scared to try.
Careful
I wouldn't recommend it as too much brasso will affect the screen, It's not just an abbrasive but solvent too so you will melt the plastic screen. Over-use will make the screen look warped.
I tried this on my M500 ages ago; now if HTC have improved on the screen then hey.. go ahead but don't say I didn't warn you.
Screen protectors are a much better option. If the screen is already marked a protector would give you a smooth finish again. If thats to expensive an option clear contact sheet will also offer the same results and a roll of that will give you screen covers for the rest of your natural life.
it would not "melt" the screen - how misguided. it is a mild solvent and abrasive and so is unlikely to cause much harm to the screen unless used constantly. screen protectors look awful on a screen - especially when the device is off.
http://www.mobilecomputermag.co.uk/2007100487/my-laptop-screen-is-scratched.html
Off topic a bit. I bought an expensive screen protector from Brando.. it works very well.. but.. for some reason it (the screen protector) got scratched. any easy way to solve it? Brasso is ok? I thought if there can be any method of using .. say car wax to fill in the grooves of the scratch.
I think it got scratched when stuff like sand got attached to my face and when I list to the phone, it stick onto the scren pctr.. and when I write on it.. it got scratched.
Just be happy you had the screen protector on!
I tried to take out the scratches from the plastic cover on my Casio watch with (Crest) toothpaste and it worked FANTASTIC!!!
Thanks a lot to the Guy who suggested this solution for PDA screens.
Damage to screen with brasso
rich1986 said:
it would not "melt" the screen - how misguided. it is a mild solvent and abrasive and so is unlikely to cause much harm to the screen unless used constantly. screen protectors look awful on a screen - especially when the device is off.
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OK it doesn't melt the screen off but it gives it a warped look if you reflect light off it.
No tricks can help
Do not fool yourself. Brasso, toothpaste, Displex all leave marks on the screen. Check it with the device off in sunlight or a strong light source.
Brando protector is expensive.
Cheap and perfect is a new digitizer (USD 8).
I just ordered two more. And whenever I get a scratch and I have time I replace it.
hmmm... Brando's protector is selling for 9-10 dollars - you can easily find cheaper alternatives.
I guess the time and hassles (and of course the warranty alone) of replacing the actual digitizer don't really worth the few bucks saved.
Not sure about you.
But i find my self always sticking my finger right into the camera lense, and it's always hard to keep clean
specially when you are eating with your hands then you do something on the phone and that oily residue is hard to get out without a good wipe.
the problem is i find i spend a lot of time trying to clean it.
So i was wondering if anyone got a good idea to put some sort of screen protector for the camera lense
i was thinking probably i'll cut a small piece of the screen protector and put it on top, since i got many to spare
also i got a few very nice one with mirror coating
problem is... not sure if the mirror coating ones will make the picture less sharp as it reflects back the light
right now the camera is taking very nice a vivid pictures as well as recording, and i wouldn't want a screen/lense protector to cut down the resolution & light input when taking pictures and making videos
specially for night mode photo shots
Food fingers will also be an issue with a screen protector. Unless you use a anti glare one which will most likely degrade the image. You best bet is a case or backing that recesses the camera preventing you from touching it.
it's really hard to avoid touching the camera, and you're right, a screen protector might deteriorate the image quality.
what i've been doing, same with phones i've previously had, is carry a small piece of micro fibre cloth in my wallet. that way, i can make sure my lense is clean.
aridoasis said:
it's really hard to avoid touching the camera, and you're right, a screen protector might deteriorate the image quality.
what i've been doing, same with phones i've previously had, is carry a small piece of micro fibre cloth in my wallet. that way, i can make sure my lense is clean.
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i do have that, problem is, oily residue is hard to remove with the micro fibre cloth
it just smudges it around, the only way to take it out is to go to the washroom get a tiny bit of soap (or wet cloth tissue, like the ones you can get from KFC) and clean it with the micro fibre cloth
I never took the protector off that comes with the phone.
It was quite funny. The screen protector I bought came with a protector for the camera lens but no matter what I couldn't get it on.... I discovered that the camera came with a protector already on it, lol.
this would probably be your best bet. it's an oleophobic (supposedly oil repelling) screen protector that includes 3 extra pieces for the camera lense as well.
http://www.sgpstore.com/product_info.php/products_id/1497
Sent from my GT-I9000 using XDA App
Just use your thumb.
1. Don't eat greasy food, it's bad for you--bad for your smartphone, too.
2. Use a fork instead of your fingers.
3. Barring those smart-alecky suggestions , perhaps there's an opportunity for someone to develop a sexy after-market back for the SGS--one which makes for easier battery changing and has a sliding window over the camera lens. Does something like that already exist?
If you get a Martin Fields screen protector it usually comes with a additional cut out protector for the camera lens. It's pricey though, but the film is good quality and you don't get any bubbles.
Sent from my GT-I9000 using XDA App
First some background: Current replacement guides for displays used on such devices as the GS3, HOX, HOS specify replacing the full-screen bonding agent with an edge-taped solution. This results in much lower contrast ratio due to a non-spec air gap and if done improperly, dust in the air pocket over time.
The *proper* solution would be a liquid adhesive lamination (LAL) or liquid optically clear adhesive (LOCA).
The requirements of these adhesives for this application are the following:
Code:
- OEM contrast ratio
- Dust abatement
- No bubbles in final product
- Rebondability
I believe the process for using these adhesives would be the following:
Code:
- Removal of all existing adhesive from substrate
- Application of *appropriate amount (TBD)* of adhesive in center of substrate
- Application of new glass lens with even pressure to spread adhesive outward, avoiding air bubbles
- Curing of adhesive if necessary
In fact, this seems more straightforward and less error prone than applying adhesive tape around the lens perimeter.
I am willing to try this on my screen, but...
What I need
I cannot determine which adhesive will work, or even work best. I'm hoping that someone has a lead on a proper adhesive through experience. Obviously a DIY fix would need only a small amount, so a gallon jug wouldn't be a good option (unless for a group buy or something).
I'll post links to the resources I have found already when I reach 10 posts
Found a reasonable amount of LOCA
I found some LOCA for $30 shipped, not sure of the quantity or how many applications it will provide. I think it will take some experimentation to find the correct amount to entirely fill the void without airspace and without squeezing out the sides. Might have to apply it with the screen out of the phone frame. Also, I do have a UV flashlight but I don't know if that is sufficient to cure this stuff. I'll test it out on some microscope slides. I'll also test whether it can be taken back apart via heat after bonding.
This topic is really interesting, since I broke my GS3 gorilla glass and would like to change it by myself. A good DIY would be appreciated
mkendra said:
This topic is really interesting, since I broke my GS3 gorilla glass and would like to change it by myself. A good DIY would be appreciated
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I ordered some LOCA so we will see how it goes I guess. I'll try to take pics/video when I can.
crakarjax said:
I ordered some LOCA so we will see how it goes I guess. I'll try to take pics/video when I can.
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can you share link of supplier ? thanx
i would add few more steps to process for using these adhesives
- if OCA used, according to post from phonefreaks h t t p ://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=31321004&postcount=13 alcohol spry on glass or screen before application OCA, then alignment, then again alcohol spry on glass or screen
- vacuum application to remove air bubbles
and i would search for LOCA which cures in "shadow" area
Kancler said:
i would add few more steps to process for using these adhesives
- if OCA used, according to post from phonefreaks h t t p ://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=31321004&postcount=13 alcohol spry on glass or screen before application OCA, then alignment, then again alcohol spry on glass or screen
- vacuum application to remove air bubbles
and i would search for LOCA which cures in "shadow" area
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The link you posted is regarding a different adhesive, that is in sticker form. The adhesive I am trying out is liquid and hardens with UV light. I found some on ebay.
I bonded two microscope slides together as a test and it worked well, no bubbles. The only problem I had is that lots of adhesive leaked out the perimeter of the slides... it is going to be hard to determine the proper amount for my screen. I also need to take into account the perimeter tape adhesive if I use it but I might not even bother since the LOCA bonds pretty tight. Another setback is that the slides are really stuck! I haven't tried applying heat to break the bond yet but I have been unable to separate the slides.
On the brighter side, LOCA is nice to work with because it will not set until you want it to; if you mess up you can just try again as long as you have some adhesive.
crakarjax said:
The link you posted is regarding a different adhesive, that is in sticker form. The adhesive I am trying out is liquid and hardens with UV light. I found some on ebay.
I bonded two microscope slides together as a test and it worked well, no bubbles. The only problem I had is that lots of adhesive leaked out the perimeter of the slides... it is going to be hard to determine the proper amount for my screen. I also need to take into account the perimeter tape adhesive if I use it but I might not even bother since the LOCA bonds pretty tight. Another setback is that the slides are really stuck! I haven't tried applying heat to break the bond yet but I have been unable to separate the slides.
On the brighter side, LOCA is nice to work with because it will not set until you want it to; if you mess up you can just try again as long as you have some adhesive.
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theres some locktide LOCA dam adhesive, which has greater viscosity, its main purpose to create borders and not allow LOCA to leak, but i think double side tape would help to keep it in place.
Hope heat will help to separate, or we will get permanent glass replacement :/ and we all know how fragile glass are :/
Kancler said:
theres some locktide LOCA dam adhesive, which has greater viscosity, its main purpose to create borders and not allow LOCA to leak, but i think double side tape would help to keep it in place.
Hope heat will help to separate, or we will get permanent glass replacement :/ and we all know how fragile glass are :/
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I did see the loctite LOCA but it's really expensive and not sold in small quantities. Greater viscosity would be a plus; how do you know what the viscosity of my LOCA is though? I'll toss my slides in the toaster oven tonight and see if they come apart.
any luck on separation ?
Kancler said:
any luck on separation ?
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Not quite. I perhaps did not let the glass heat thoroughly, but I stuck it in the oven at 190 for 10 minutes and then gave it a shot. I did not use a razor blade but rather a pocket knife so that didn't help, but the adhesive did clearly give; however, the top layer of glass broke. Not a big deal but I was hoping it would be a lot easier. The layer of adhesive wasn't rock hard, and it was very very thin so a thicker layer would surely give more easily. I could clearly see that prying in the glass was causing the kind of outwardly flowing separation that I would have expected so that's encouraging. I think I'll call it good enough and cross that bridge if and when my glass breaks again. As soon as I get my metal pry tool from hong kong I'm going to give it a shot.
Hi, ive been getting a lot of questions from people whether or not the logo at the back is baked in the anti shatter film.
I just wanted to share that I removed mine(back) and the logos sony, xperia, g lens and nfc icon is inside the glass so no need to worry.. the film is really dust magnet so better remove it. downside is that the glass doesnt feel smooth and it is still the same fingerprint magnet as the film. only difference is it doesnt accumulate dust anymore except the ones that come from your hand.
you can buy glass cleaners with oleophobic property to solve this problem.
the only thing im wondering now is whether or not the color on the frame will come off in time. I hope its not paint and the metal is purple itself as i got the purple one. the same reason why Im hesitant to wash it.. especially the silver on the sides Im not sure if it will come off with frequent washing.
as for the front, do not remove it as the sony logo is baked on the film. unless you dont intend to keep the logo. anyway, thats it! I also have couple of questions I hope you guys can help me with.. these are general issues of phone usage. here is the link.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2577174
thanks!
I can help you to answer that metal question: As mine has fallen to the ground several times and my metal frame got damaged a bit, I can see that the metal seems to be all purple. No use of paint.
:good:
nevertheless it is a pain, having to realize, that you actually can't get that flawless beaty back, once the metal is chipped...
the_brad said:
I can help you to answer that metal question: As mine has fallen to the ground several times and my metal frame got damaged a bit, I can see that the metal seems to be all purple. No use of paint.
:good:
nevertheless it is a pain, having to realize, that you actually can't get that flawless beaty back, once the metal is chipped...
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im relieved to hear that. thanks alot.. I hope that goes the same to the silver metal frame..