Related
i know this thread should probably be under the general device section, but i'm not sure if the hermes has a special screen or not (h200/cingular8525)
i was out looking at a house to rent, noticed their mailbox got smashed so i picked it up-- in the process i scratched the hell out of my screen (it causes my fingernail to jump when i run it over the scratch, but its not deep enough to effect using the stylus under it)
i don't have any type of protection plan AFAIK (though its a retail purchased NEW 8525 from a corp store if that makes a difference)
so, basically i'm wondering if there are any types of scratch hiding methods that are proven to work well for the screen? i'm thinking CD refinishing items might help (mentioned on a few threads when i searched).. should i find a dremel and some high speed cloth polishing wheels to eat away the ridges around the scratch?
edit:
this seems to be just a surface scratch in the screen coating, if i use the stylus over the scratch it still draws correctly in pencilbox.
r u using softcase or something ?
I use Krussel leather case and it work.
anyway just minor scartch is fine as long as u now broken ur LCD.
For minor scratches Brass cleaning cloth or liquid works well but be careful not to overdo it. In the UK the brand name Brasso is ok. Essentially these products contain micro particles impregnated into a cloth or liquid. Never pour liquid onto the screen but use a little on a cloth.
Very much a use at your own risk solution!
Mike
try applesauce polish. http://www.applesaucepolish.com/
Well it's me again.
This time, i had some spare time and thought of making something i wanted to do for some time ago. It's my first time doing this (although i'm familiar with the process since i use it for PCB making) but i thought i should give it a try. And in great recognition of what the XDA community enabled us - the users - to do with our phones, i wanted to brand my phone's battery cover with the XDA logo next to the andoid logo, the thing (os) that xda developers made possible to us. Ah and in the xda spirit, i thought it would be kind of cool to handcraft the design of that battery cover.
Here's the story of today's afternoon for me
...and possibly a guide for you, daring folks around there who just happen to have a spare scratched and ugly looking battery cover like i did
So.. i had this hd2 battery cover, from a dead HD2 that i have (poor fellow died during testing of the cpu bga problems and my tries to find a fix for them). The battery cover was in really bad shape, scratched, the finish was torn out.. looked like... crap.
I saw a topic around here about how to make your battery cover to a chrome-like finish by using some sandpaper and stuff like that. I think the idea is good, but the result is well... too shiny for my taste...and i want a "custom made one". I also wanted to have the xda and android logos onto the battery cover but i could not afford some laser etching on it, i can't even find one shop to do this here were i live in Romania. So here's how i did it.
1. I opted for a brushed metal design. A clear look design is just to shiny for my taste and... well, i guess it scratches more easily. So, using sandpaper, i've begun clearing away the original paint on the battery cover. When i was done with that, i begun sanding in only one direction and in straight line, in order to have a more symmetrical brushed metal look.
After some time sanding and after changing the sandpaper roughness to more finer ones, here's how it looked. Note that this is not the final design.
2. Next i needed some sort of logo - the stuff i'll be putting on the battery cover. I googled around, and got the xda text and android logo. I've edited them to a black&white design (you'll see later why..) and it looked like this.
3. I mirrored the logo, using irfan view and selecting horizontal flip from the image dropdown menu. You'll also see why. Then I've printed the logo onto a glossy a4 paper sheet, like the ones used for foto printing. I've used a laser printer, this is really necessary, inkjet ones won't work for what i'm about to do. You'll also see why
4. I draw some guiding lines for helping me center the image once i place the battery cover over it. Here's how i did.
5. I now placed the battery cover over the sheet of paper, using the lines i already drawn as a template to help me center it. As the image is mirrored, as you may guess, i will be transferring the logo from the paper to the metal surface and once there, it will look normal (not mirrored). More on that later. I also secured the paper to the battery cover with some electrical tape. Don't get upset, you'll also see why.
6. Well, i did use some fair amount of electrical tape to secure that piece of paper to the metallic surface. It needs to be as stretched as possible, not able to move around.
7. I used a smoothing iron (i don't know the exact word in english, aah, that thing you use to smooth out clothes) to heat up and press the piece of paper to the metallic surface. I pressed the iron and move it around the logo zone for about 15 minutes, at maximum temperature. Because the battery cover is not exactly flat, i was careful to follow the contour in order to leave no metal part unheated.
8. I then placed the heated battery cover with the paper on it, under a jet of cold water. I left it under the water for 15 minutes. This is important. The water must be cold, never use hot water.
9. I carefully begun peeling of the paper from the metallic part.
10. I peeled of almost all the paper, one thin layer still remained over the logo area. Don't rush things, place it under a water jet for yet another 5 minutes.
11. Ahh, there it is, the thing starts to look like something, ain't it
12. In the photo above, you can see that the toner from the paper was transferred to the metallic piece. That's why you need a laser printer, because of this property of it's toner. And also that's why you needed to heat it up with the iron. In fact, you're simulating what the laser printer does every time when you print something. Well, you done it on a curved metal piece.
In this last picture you'll also see that the logo isn't exactly 100% black, there are some grey or white spots on it. That's residual paper left over it. If you carefully rub it with your finger or a fine brush, you can actually remove it if you insist. You'll get a pure black logo (or other color if you wish and if you have a color laser printer available). At this stage you could also stop, if you like a black/color logo. You could then apply some lacquer, the spray-able variety to preserve the surface from scratches. I chose another design so i will go on with some other steps from here.
13. If you want something different, you may skip rubbing the logo to remove all the paper. If the logo looks as in the above picture, you're good to go for the next step. Remove the metallic piece from the jet of water and let it dry. If while it's wet you see that the black toner has gone away from some points, you'll need to use a little bit of paint to cover them out (you'll also see why). So if you see points where the toner is gone (after you removed the paper at the 9-10 steps) try to memorize where the areas affected are, then let the piece of metal to dry out for some half hour. After it's dry, you'll probably see that it turned kind of gray or even white-ish. It's no problem, it's normal, but it will be harder now to see those affected areas i was talking about before. That's why you memorized them. Now use a paint marker (one that has real paint in it, not the ones used to write on cd's or similar to those) or if you can't get one, you may also use some fingernail polish. Make some small dots over the affected areas. After you complete this, let the paint/fingernail polish to dry out. Be careful not to spoil the logo YOU WILL HAVE TO START OVER FROM STEP 1 IF YOU GET IT WRONG HERE... and that sucks )
14. After the paint has dried out, place the metallic piece under a water jet again. Cold water. Remove it after 1 minute, recheck for afected areas, if you still find them, you'll have to let the thing dry out again, and cover those parts with paint dots, again.
Here's mine.
and here's once i've done with the painting
After you're done, leave the whole thing to dry out for about 1 hour.
15. Get yourself some ferric chloride. You can get it from electronic components store, radioshack etc. It's used in electronics by hobbyists who want to etch their own pcb's. You'll need this stuff also. About 300ml will do.. The stuff is toxic, you don't want to touch it or spill it over clothes or other things, it will leave out some nasty spots that you can't remove. Use some gloves while handling this stuff. Now pour the ferric chloride into a plastic recipient big enough to fit the battery cover into.
Well i ignored the safety tip, but i'm being careful, i know the stuff, have been working with it for some good years.
16. Now you want to drop the battery cover...into the black stuff . Drop it with the logo side up. NOT DOWN. I really mean it. UP. Carefully swing the plastic recipient, just enough to move the liquid around. Try not to expose the metallic part, you must keep it submerged all the time. If you want to check the progress, be quick, lean the plastic recipient to one side just to expose the metallic piece, look at it, but then quickly lean the recipient back and keep the metallic piece submerged. Prolonged exposure to air in this stage can ruin your progress.
Here's how mine looks after 5 minutes into the ferric chloride. You'll be wanting to keep the metallic plate there for about 15-20 minutes. If you let it longer it will turn to a more darker color. If you let it just for 10 minutes you'll get a light gray. However you can't get an uniform black (or something as dark as an original battery cover) because if you let it this much you risk that the ferric chloride attacks the toner and paint surface, making holes in it or braking it apart.
Like i've said, here's the thing after 5 minutes. I want to let it for another 10-15 minutes.
17.
Once you left it for enough time, lean back the plastic recipient and look at the metallic piece once more. Take note that the color you see now will get a bit lighter once the whole process is finished. If you're satisfied, prepare a big water boll and quickly remove the metallic piece from the ferric chloride and drop it in the water. Be as quick as possible, while being careful not to drop the ferric chloride. Use gloves when doing this. Once the metallic piece is in the water, steer up the water with your hand.
Here's how mine looks now.
Your plate could be lighter or darker at this stage, depending on how much you left it in the ferric chloride. Don't worry if the color is not uniform. Instead, while the plate is still under water, get yourself a kitchen sponge, the one with one abrasive side and with the metallic plate still under water start rubbing it on the direction of the original brushed metal design you made in the start. Rub in only one direction, with the sponge and the plate always under water and continue to do so until the color becomes more uniform. Then use some isopropyl alcohol (also from radioshack - or the place you got the ferric chloride from.. they should also have this) and remove the metallic board from under the water. Now while the thing is still wet (don't let it dry!!!), get another sponge (clean dry one) and pour some isopropyl alcohol on the abrasive part and start rubbing the metallic piece once more, on the same and only direction (not back and forth). Rub in a parallel direction with the original scratches that makes your "brushed" design. The isopropyl alcohol should begin to disolve the toner and the paint. It should also help you to remove residual oxides left since you placed the metallic piece into the ferric chloride.
Here's my progress.
toner is starting to break down
18. aaaand... in the end, if you did it right, you should have something like this :
19. once the surface is of uniform color, wash the whole thing under a jet of hot water with some soap to remove any residues left by the chemical processes.
20. You're done! Now you have your custom made-hand crafted-geeky-logo. The logo itself won't peel off and the surrounding stuff is actually chemically embedded into the metal by a process similar to industrial aluminum anodizing (the same process used to cure aluminum used in unibody designs). Although it is scratch resistant to some degree, you may want to use some spray lacquer to protect your work.
I haven't got any lacquer yet but i'll use some if i can get some quality stuff. Here are some more photos with the thing so far.
(please excuse the photo quality, my camera and it's flash produces a weird looking effect, it seems that the metallic thing is kind of made from small dots, not brushed metal.. damned thing.. guess i'll be needing a new one)
...and a small video (with the same crappy camera)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MtuRn02lPgY
Well, all in all, i like the thing. It's my first try at this, although i've done dozens of toner transfers to copper pcb's. I cannot be perfect at first try, probably neither you guys but is a good DIY afternoon fun.
I would also like to thank the xda community for giving me such a good times with my hd2's along with my other htc phones in the past. XDA has become such a successful community because of it's dedicated developers and users. I'm proud to wear the xda letters next to my phone.
PS: i promise i will also add a website link in the next version, if i get a new and more powerful iron, i was afraid this one won't be hot enough to heat the thing properly and transfer smaller text or details
amazing stuff dude!!!
i had lots of fun reading it and seeing the progress along the way and you've explained all the steps really well...the result speaks for itself!
++respect!
you my friend always surprise me, first with thermal solution and than THIS awesome " discovery ", thanks again .
Just like the user above said!
+respect Sir Facdemol!
awweeeeeeeeeeeeesome!!!!!
awesome....but tedious !
Its pretty cool but alot of work
Sent from the land were pigs fly
fantastic. really nicely done!
Love the mod.
thanks for the feedback
the mod took me about 3-4 hours to make. More complex designs are possible, ore similar designs on a mirror like finish. If the HD2 had an aluminum case.. hahah, that would have been fun...
I would vote for you for King of the HD2 hardware!
Very well done. I very well may have to try this. My battery cover is starting to look very bad.
OMG this is amazing! I may need to buy a metal backing for my phone just so I can do this.
this really looks sooo amazing. gread work!
That's bloody impressive! Might have to do this to my HD2
Damn that's awesome
Sent from my Nexus S 4G using XDA Premium App
Holy crabcakes. That's rad
. . NS4G . . MIUI . .
Is it for sale? (jk)
Really really nice, I like it!
+1 on everything was said!
Amazing. Well done!
Awesome!
Very very cool!
WOW! "applause"
Has anyone tried using Rain-X? I'm probably going to give it a shot by cleaning the entire screen, and then applying it to a rag, and then onto the screen itself. From what I've heard, it will last for about a week, but it's supposed to be pretty effective.
I'm not a clean freak or anything, but they're very visible unless it's in a dark room or some place without much ambient lighting. If anything, it's helped with how frequently I wash my hands.
I'll be reporting back if I put a coat on!
not sure why this would work. rainx is like an oil. oil doesnt mix with water, thats why it just flies right off your windshield when your driving. your fingers produces oil, not water. like dissolves like. i doubt this will work. please update us on this though.
I didn't have any Rain-X on hand when I first heard about this, so I used carnauba wax instead. It still gets fingerprints, but they're not as noticeable and they wipe away easier.
Rain-X doesn't necessarily repel oils, but it does fill in the microscopic pores in the glass, making for a smoother surface that makes it harder for things to stick to it.
Search the forum for about 10 diff threads regarding this subject for more detailed info if your worried about chemicals in rainx etc.
I have been using it for about 5 months on various devices. usually 3 coats at one time will last me about 1 month or so with very little fingerprints and the ones i do get wipe off very easy.
It works great.
DISCLAIMER: I am not responsible for any unwanted damage you may cause to your device, this is to be a sharing of an idea which happened to work for me and a sort of framework for how you may also accomplish this.
So basically, I despise how terribly fingerprints show on my G4's edge, that's a nit pick. My main complaint is that because it's a glossy plastic, it gets scratched very easily and shows that just as bad, not to mention it's obviously plastic masking as metal and not doing a good job, or more simply put, makes this flagship look cheap. I had a vision of a G4 with a flat black edge, I thought I'd grab a nail file from my bathroom -the giant popsicle stick ones- and use it to gently wear away at the shiny coating. My nail file had two sides, a fine side and a coarser side, I used the fine side exclusively with higher pressure strokes in the beginning to remove the shiny coating, using gentler and broader strokes to smooth, got one of those crazy nail file tools that have multiple sides and are made of two sides with softer layers of material in between, the two sides are also split into different functions, ones usually a buffer and the other is a super fine nail file, fine than the former one.....then I used this same tool to buff and clean up the edges and make sure all is smooth and nice, worked excellently, can also probably use super fine sandpaper and a cloth.
My back plate was off and battery removed, I used the popsicle nail file one side at a time starting with rougher strokes to get rid of the shiny coating -which will distinctly flake away as white little crumbs of plastic- it will take a few passes to completely strip the coating off the edge, you'll notice it lingers like a sort of residue as it contrasts quite distinctly against the revealed plastic, once the coating is nonexistent begin to smooth and finish the side until it is uniform in color and looks completely smooth, you want to keep the direction of the strokes consistent as it will impact the uniformity and smoothness, I went horizontally around the phone if it were laying flat and that gave me great results, give the corners some extra attention but its the same idea, and thanks to the battery back being off I was able to make the finish meet the edge of the battery door by angling the file accordingly, repeat these steps loosely and gently with either the multi-tool-file or extra fine grit sandpaper, use your judgment, buff and finish to your heart's desire. During the entire process be sure to regularly clean off the sandpaper, file and sides of the phone on a cloth of some sort between passes as you will notice the sandpaper glide and will be clogged with material, I was wearing some bumming pants so I just rubbed it off on those, worked wonderfully. Obviously you are removing incredibly small layers of material so guys be careful, you could probably remove quite a bit before anything happens but that can also effec look of things quite badly so try to make it even. I plugged important holes with bits of tissue, only the headphone jack really, the usb port is shallow enough where some air remove any particles.
The file helps especially because of its rigidity and shape, allowing me to have a lot of flexibility when dealing with such a small surface area.
You are putting files and sandpaper near your screen, be careful. I had a very good screen protecter but even then I didn't touch my screen once, you can get at a pretty steep angle like 45 degrees away from being parallel with the screen and still be fine, maybe less, just be wary, it's easy to slip and scratch, I don't think a soft brush would do much but a rough scratch could leave marks.
My IR blaster still works and it received the same treatment, I made no effort to avoid it.
I will post pictures soon, I wish I could use my phone to take a picture of my phone. I'll use someones phone tomorrow to do so.
Feel free to ask me anything if you have a question or I left some vital info out.
:laugh:
okay, waiting for the pics and a more detailed steps before jumping in.
superbonto said:
okay, waiting for the pics and a more detailed steps before jumping in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So, I don't know how to post the pics cus as a new user I can't use links...
Also, you might consider adding a step of using progressively higher grits of sandpaper, and even going all the way to a rubbing compound to get super fine control over how much matte effect you desire. The matte of 300 grit sandpaper is different than the matte of say 450 grit etc.
KingFatty said:
Also, you might consider adding a step of using progressively higher grits of sandpaper, and even going all the way to a rubbing compound to get super fine control over how much matte effect you desire. The matte of 300 grit sandpaper is different than the matte of say 450 grit etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes absolutely, this is worth considering. I merely outlined how I did it to show that its not really necessary to get specific, I didn't go out of my way to get any of the tools I used and it came out satisfactory. I'll probably add it in once I get pics up and if people feel it's not as accessible as I thought.
mp2195 said:
So, I don't know how to post the pics cus as a new user I can't use links...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
give us the link like www. linkhere.com/blah.img
mp2195 said:
So, I don't know how to post the pics cus as a new user I can't use links...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Use https://imgur.com/ to upload the picture and then post the direct link here, I'd love to see some pictures of this.
mp2195 said:
DISCLAIMER: I am not responsible for any unwanted damage you may cause to your device, this is to be a sharing of an idea which happened to work for me and a sort of framework for how you may also accomplish this.
So basically, I despise how terribly fingerprints show on my G4's edge, that's a nit pick. My main complaint is that because it's a glossy plastic, it gets scratched very easily and shows that just as bad, not to mention it's obviously plastic masking as metal and not doing a good job, or more simply put, makes this flagship look cheap. I had a vision of a G4 with a flat black edge, I thought I'd grab a nail file from my bathroom -the giant popsicle stick ones- and use it to gently wear away at the shiny coating. My nail file had two sides, a fine side and a coarser side, I used the fine side exclusively with higher pressure strokes in the beginning to remove the shiny coating, using gentler and broader strokes to smooth, got one of those crazy nail file tools that have multiple sides and are made of two sides with softer layers of material in between, the two sides are also split into different functions, ones usually a buffer and the other is a super fine nail file, fine than the former one.....then I used this same tool to buff and clean up the edges and make sure all is smooth and nice, worked excellently, can also probably use super fine sandpaper and a cloth.
My back plate was off and battery removed, I used the popsicle nail file one side at a time starting with rougher strokes to get rid of the shiny coating -which will distinctly flake away as white little crumbs of plastic- it will take a few passes to completely strip the coating off the edge, you'll notice it lingers like a sort of residue as it contrasts quite distinctly against the revealed plastic, once the coating is nonexistent begin to smooth and finish the side until it is uniform in color and looks completely smooth, you want to keep the direction of the strokes consistent as it will impact the uniformity and smoothness, I went horizontally around the phone if it were laying flat and that gave me great results, give the corners some extra attention but its the same idea, and thanks to the battery back being off I was able to make the finish meet the edge of the battery door by angling the file accordingly, repeat these steps loosely and gently with either the multi-tool-file or extra fine grit sandpaper, use your judgment, buff and finish to your heart's desire. During the entire process be sure to regularly clean off the sandpaper, file and sides of the phone on a cloth of some sort between passes as you will notice the sandpaper glide and will be clogged with material, I was wearing some bumming pants so I just rubbed it off on those, worked wonderfully. Obviously you are removing incredibly small layers of material so guys be careful, you could probably remove quite a bit before anything happens but that can also effec look of things quite badly so try to make it even. I plugged important holes with bits of tissue, only the headphone jack really, the usb port is shallow enough where some air remove any particles.
The file helps especially because of its rigidity and shape, allowing me to have a lot of flexibility when dealing with such a small surface area.
You are putting files and sandpaper near your screen, be careful. I had a very good screen protecter but even then I didn't touch my screen once, you can get at a pretty steep angle like 45 degrees away from being parallel with the screen and still be fine, maybe less, just be wary, it's easy to slip and scratch, I don't think a soft brush would do much but a rough scratch could leave marks.
My IR blaster still works and it received the same treatment, I made no effort to avoid it.
I will post pictures soon, I wish I could use my phone to take a picture of my phone. I'll use someones phone tomorrow to do so.
Feel free to ask me anything if you have a question or I left some vital info out.
:laugh:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just came across this. I will be doing this tonight whn i get home from work. My otter box has scuffed mine pretty good. I like the nail file idea. Its work. Lol make u respect it a little more from the hard work.
make pressure on him so he shares the pics. :/
can the leathe from back cover be removed, am should be getting mine and it might be with leather.. i dont like it. just wondering if someone has taken the leather off the cover.. what it looks like. just plain molded plastic?
raptorddd said:
can the leathe from back cover be removed, am should be getting mine and it might be with leather.. i dont like it. just wondering if someone has taken the leather off the cover.. what it looks like. just plain molded plastic?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dont do it! It will look horrendous! You better get a plastic back cover from eBay, I got one so I could use a Spigen Neo Hybid without damaging the leather back cover.
pakitos said:
Dont do it! It will look horrendous! You better get a plastic back cover from eBay, I got one so I could use a Spigen Neo Hybid without damaging the leather back cover.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i think leather looks GAY . no offense guys its just my opinion.. so it would be just a molded plastic right.? ill try see some stuff on amazon. what is the variant you have? is it from mexico..
raptorddd said:
i think leather looks GAY . no offense guys its just my opinion.. so it would be just a molded plastic right.? ill try see some stuff on amazon. what is the variant you have? is it from mexico..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not molded plastic but lots of glue and sew points. Mine is from Telcel H815P
pakitos said:
Not molded plastic but lots of glue and sew points. Mine is from Telcel H815P
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unless glue cant be removed then itll look ugly... as foe the sewing points , thats a plu you get ventilation there.
this weather up north isnt very friendly... too bad you cant unlock bootloader.. whers the fun ?
Matte G4 Edge https://imgur.com/a/Bzspg
solventh said:
make pressure on him so he shares the pics. :/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Matte G4 Edge https://imgur.com/a/Bzspg
Thanks. Gold idea. Will try this when my broken test g4 arrives.
Can you pls seit the first post with the pics?
mp2195 said:
Matte G4 Edge https://imgur.com/a/Bzspg
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks so much, man :]
Bullnados said:
Thanks. Gold idea. Will try this when my broken test g4 arrives.
Can you pls seit the first post with the pics?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For some stupid reason it won't let me edit my original post, weird. I'll try on my PC when I get a chance.
Perhaps to old?
You’ve done your research, compared them all, and finally settled on a great new mechanical keyboard that elevates your experience to the maximum. But no matter which one you go for, it’s impossible for it to remain clean and fresh all the time. All the sweaty gaming sessions, crumbs of food, and of course the biggest culprit – dust! It’s a good habit to clean your keyboard at least once every couple of months and to help you out, we’ve some quick tips for keeping your precious mechanical keyboard spotless.
I’m a bit of a clean freak, so usually, there’s a dust blower and a set of cleaning brushes at hand’s reach. I end up doing a quick clean-up of my keyboard at least once a week with the occasional wiping with a microfiber cloth. While that might sound a bit too much, performing a simple clean-up at least once a month is recommended as it ensures that your keyboard runs properly for longer. The gap between your cleanups can be increased or decreased depending on various conditions like dust accumulation, how much hair/skin you shed, whether you have pets, how much food you eat while sitting at your PC, and so on.
Simple CleaningDisconnect your keyboard, turn it around, and give it a shake, so that all the loose debris can fall out. If required, use an air blower or a few light sprays of canned air to remove any remaining crumbs or debris. Do remember that you’re basically blowing dust and debris around, so unless you want a dirty desk, it’s advised to clean your keyboard out in the open. It’s also advised to be extra careful when using compressed air from a can, as there are cases when it can lead to the formation of condensation that can damage some metallic parts on the keyboard.
You can also use a cleaning brush to remove any gunk stuck between or under the keys and quickly remove them using a vacuum cleaner. To remove sweat stains, especially ones on your keys or wrist rest, use a clean damp cloth to wipe off those marks. I would highly recommend following this simple cleanup procedure regularly to avoid the accumulation of dust, food particles, hair, and dead skin underneath the keys over time.
Deep CleaningFor those who haven’t cleaned their keyboard in a very long period, it’s time for some deep cleaning. Start by following the same process as I mentioned above to shake off any loose gunk. Next, remove all the keycaps from the keyboard. These should easily come off or be removed using a keycap puller tool usually bundled with most mechanical keyboards. If you don’t have one, you can buy one from here. Ensure that you don’t use excessive force or any heavy tools that can damage the keycaps. Be careful while removing larger keys like Spacebar, Enter, and Backspace, as they may have a stabilizer for support.
If you’ve never removed keycaps in the past, head over to your keyboard OEM’s website for guidance. Also, it’s a good habit to organize the keycaps as you remove them. You can also take a picture of the keyboard layout before taking the keycaps off, as this will help you in the faster reinstallation of the keycaps.
Once you’ve removed all of them, clean the entire deck using a cleaning brush, an air blower, or a vacuum cleaner. If you spilled something on the keyboard in the past like coffee or soda, use a damp cloth to wipe off the stains. For stubborn and sticky stains, you can use a tiny bit of dishwashing solution or isopropyl alcohol as well. Make sure you don’t use any liquids directly on the keyboard; rather apply some directly onto a cleaning cloth. This is to ensure that no liquid enters the internals, which could potentially damage the keyboard permanently. Do check the keyboard feet for any grime or dust buildup and a quick look at the keyboard cable to ensure there’s no potential damage.
Clean each keycap with a damp cloth or simply throw them in water with some soap if you want all your keys to be shiny on the inside and outside. Wipe off any stains and let them dry off. If you’ve used any liquids, I recommend leaving the keyboard and the keycaps to dry overnight. After you’ve ensured that everything is clean, start by putting back the keycaps on the mainboard. Whatever you do, be certain that everything is completely dry before plugging the keyboard into your PC.
Further MaintenanceTo further maintain the longevity of your keyboard, make sure you take time to clean it periodically. In fact, ensure that you clean all your PC parts at regular intervals if you want them to last longer. Most importantly, manage your cables. Not only does that make your setup look good, but it also ensures that the cables don’t wear out quickly. If the cable on your keyboard is long and just hanging about, use some velcro or zip ties to tidy it up.
We have also listed down some of the best mechanical keyboards to buy this year, in case you are planning to buy one.
Here is a list of some of the items mentioned above:
Dust cleaning air blower
Anti-static cleaning brush kit
Key puller
Compressed air can
Velcro straps
I spray my keyboard out with an air duster every once in a while, but I really need to pop the keys off to get a proper clean.
Best to not require a deep cleaning.
Low pressure air should be enough.
Don't drink or eat around the keyboard...
Cover with a cloth, etc when not in use.
blackhawk said:
Best to not require a deep cleaning.
Low pressure air should be enough.
Don't drink or eat around the keyboard...
Cover with a cloth, etc when not in use.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm using the plastic cover which came along woth my Sharkoon Skiller MECH SGK3 to protect it over night from dust. If I have to remove dust, I'm using an Opolar Air Duster(better than air duster spray and more environmental friendly)
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strongst said:
I'm using the plastic cover which came along woth my Sharkoon Skiller MECH SGK3 to protect it over night from dust. If I have to remove dust, I'm using an Opolar Air Duster(better than air duster spray and more environmental friendly)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would use my Craftsmen shop vac with the brush attachment
strongst said:
I'm using the plastic cover which came along woth my Sharkoon Skiller MECH SGK3 to protect it over night from dust. If I have to remove dust, I'm using an Opolar Air Duster(better than air duster spray and more environmental friendly)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I need one of those!
orb3000 said:
I need one of those!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I recommend to buy it from the manufacturer, took some time too deliver, but cheaper compared to amazon
I prefer the "Tony Stark Special." Cleans everything!
orb3000 said:
I need one of those!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Today I received a newsletter from opolar.com where they offer 50% including free shipping hence you can get the duster for just 28,49$
strongst said:
Today I received a newsletter from opolar.com where they offer 50% including free shipping hence you can get the duster for just 28,49$
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A brush attachment on a vacuum cleaner does the job very well plus it doesn't "throw" the dust around.
Just make sure the keys are secure...
I used my shop vac like this all the time. To clean pro cams and lens after shooting in a dusty location too. The problem with pressurized air is it can drive dust deeper into the victim device, a vacuum is less likely to. Lol, don't apply vacuum to zoom lense vent holes, etc.
blackhawk said:
A brush attachment on a vacuum cleaner does the job very well plus it doesn't "throw" the dust around.
Just make sure the keys are secure...
I used my shop vac like this all the time. To clean pro cams and lens after shooting in a dusty location too. The problem with pressurized air is it can drive dust deeper into the victim device, a vacuum is less likely to. Lol, don't apply vacuum to zoom lense vent holes, etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm using the opolar also for my DSLM sensor, plants(vacuum cleaner isn't practical here), to clean my vacuum cleaner(Dyson V10), RC car, my PC(small gaps and slots where the air pressure can go deeper) and so on.
I'm mainly surprised that it's better than a can of compressed gas. Same and steady pressure, no ice, no harmful/inflammable gas and cheaper.
Of course, there are cases where a vacuum cleaner does a better job, as you explained
strongst said:
I'm using the opolar also for my DSLM sensor, plants(vacuum cleaner isn't practical here), to clean my vacuum cleaner(Dyson V10), RC car, my PC(small gaps and slots where the air pressure can go deeper) and so on.
I'm mainly surprised that it's better than a can of compressed gas. Same and steady pressure, no ice, no harmful/inflammable gas and cheaper.
Of course, there are cases where a vacuum cleaner does a better job, as you explained
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I use both sometimes together. I use a 10 psi dry air source as well for delicate devices.
High pressure air is not recommended and canned air can cause condensation if colder than ambient temperature... definitely not desirable.
strongst said:
Today I received a newsletter from opolar.com where they offer 50% including free shipping hence you can get the duster for just 28,49$
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Click to collapse
Thanks for the heads up!
If you're going to get a vacuum cleaner for use on a PC, consider buying a proper anti-static or "IT" vacuum. Most normal vacuum cleaners can produce a build-up of static charge which, if discharged into electronics, cause permanently damage them.
At work, we use a slightly uncool ESD vacuum cleaner. It's very powerful and we can use it inside computers and on any sensitive broadcast equipment without worrying about killing memory chips or damaging other components.
Anti-Static Vacuum Cleaner | ESD Vacuuming Solutions | Bondline
A lightweight ESD vacuum cleaner for precise removal of dust particles and debris from electrostatic sensitive devices. Shop here.
www.bondline.co.uk
orb_selektor said:
Thanks for the heads up!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For what it's worth, I navigated to that site and my Fakespot extension immediately flagged this seller as problematic:
As usual, buyer beware. That product looks pretty cheaply made for an expensive sticker price and hardly what I'd call durable. Save your money and buy better.
christopherwoods said:
If you're going to get a vacuum cleaner for use on a PC, consider buying a proper anti-static or "IT" vacuum. Most normal vacuum cleaners can produce a build-up of static charge which, if discharged into electronics, cause permanently damage them.
At work, we use a slightly uncool ESD vacuum cleaner. It's very powerful and we can use it inside computers and on any sensitive broadcast equipment without worrying about killing memory chips or damaging other components.
Anti-Static Vacuum Cleaner | ESD Vacuuming Solutions | Bondline
A lightweight ESD vacuum cleaner for precise removal of dust particles and debris from electrostatic sensitive devices. Shop here.
www.bondline.co.uk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lol I saw those cute, expensive ESD tech vacs over a decade ago. If cleaning PC's, Xray equipment etc professionally I probably invest in a big expensive one.
The only time I'm really concerned with the shop vac is with loose out of circuit components and PCB's. It goes no where near them.
It is unlikely anything will be damaged as the keyboard inputs are fairly well protected.
If concerned disconnect from the PC and earth ground discharge yourself before reconnecting.
Carelessly plugging in to USB ports with a high static charge on their person is how most people damage a PC with static. Or sometimes touching the keyboard on a dry day. Simply touching an earth ground before touching the keyboard prevents that. Something I actually do in the winter.
Wear cotton not wool or synthetics...
I used the 6hp wet/dry vac for years on my pro cams, laptops and keyboards with zero damage.
To generate a static charge a good flow of particles must be present. There's just not that much dust.
The greatest hazard is too much suction sucking up a loose part or in the case of lens if you're not careful to avoid the vents, sucking dust into them.
If the RH is below 50% you might want to wait
For cleaning out PC cases I simply use compressed clean air and the shop vac to catch the dust. In circuit components like ram sticks are well protected especially if the case/power supply are earth grounded ie plugged in. I was however careful not to get too close to components with the compressed air or go too nuts with huge clouds of dust.
If really concerned about ESD, get a quality ESD meter. That's the only way to know what's there.
There's much more static present of materials and objects than most could imagine especially on dry days. Once charged it can linger for minutes or hours.
As with anything though, use your best judgment.
Better safe than sorry at least until you get tired of goofing and around getting nowhere
christopherwoods said:
For what it's worth, I navigated to that site and my Fakespot extension immediately flagged this seller as problematic:
View attachment 5403495
View attachment 5403497
As usual, buyer beware. That product looks pretty cheaply made for an expensive sticker price and hardly what I'd call durable. Save your money and buy better.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought 3 times there(while products on sale) and the seller is reliable and shipping is fast including the quality of the products which they deliver. They even gave me a partial refund for shippiong the wrong color.
christopherwoods said:
If you're going to get a vacuum cleaner for use on a PC, consider buying a proper anti-static or "IT" vacuum. Most normal vacuum cleaners can produce a build-up of static charge which, if discharged into electronics, cause permanently damage them.
At work, we use a slightly uncool ESD vacuum cleaner. It's very powerful and we can use it inside computers and on any sensitive broadcast equipment without worrying about killing memory chips or damaging other components.
Anti-Static Vacuum Cleaner | ESD Vacuuming Solutions | Bondline
A lightweight ESD vacuum cleaner for precise removal of dust particles and debris from electrostatic sensitive devices. Shop here.
www.bondline.co.uk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There's one other fly in the ointment with non ESD vacs and even potentially ESD vacs that use a brush attachment. The high volume air flow causes the bristles to rub against themselves and the objects they touch.
This can produce static electricity and a charge potential can build up. Potentially discharging to anything it touches.
Static conductive bristles with an earth ground metal holder at their base would help dissipate the build up charge. A modified shop vac ESD adapter could be made like this.
I assume the whole body, hose and tools of the ESD vacs are made of conductive plastic, or a variation as described above, to bled off charges.
Regardless the conductive ESD plastic(s) should be earth grounded.
Also even if these precautions are taken static charge potential will build up to some extent; your goal is to limit production/voltage potential and slow discharge through contacted charged objects enough to prevent damaging voltage potential/current volume to flow through sensitive components. This may not be possible especially in dry conditions.
Always double check the actual value being generated with a good ESD meter.
Out of circuit components and assemblies are at very high risk of ESD damage; never vacuum these! Use compressed clean air instead.
Using a high volume balanced air ionizer in close proximity is another solution and probably the best
kunalneo said:
You’ve done your research, compared them all, and finally settled on a great new mechanical keyboard that elevates your experience to the maximum. But no matter which one you go for, it’s impossible for it to remain clean and fresh all the time. All the sweaty gaming sessions, crumbs of food, and of course the biggest culprit – dust! It’s a good habit to clean your keyboard at least once every couple of months and to help you out, we’ve some quick tips for keeping your precious mechanical keyboard spotless.
I’m a bit of a clean freak, so usually, there’s a dust blower and a set of cleaning brushes at hand’s reach. I end up doing a quick clean-up of my keyboard at least once a week with the occasional wiping with a microfiber cloth. While that might sound a bit too much, performing a simple clean-up at least once a month is recommended as it ensures that your keyboard runs properly for longer. The gap between your cleanups can be increased or decreased depending on various conditions like dust accumulation, how much hair/skin you shed, whether you have pets, how much food you eat while sitting at your PC, and so on.
Simple CleaningDisconnect your keyboard, turn it around, and give it a shake, so that all the loose debris can fall out. If required, use an air blower or a few light sprays of canned air to remove any remaining crumbs or debris. Do remember that you’re basically blowing dust and debris around, so unless you want a dirty desk, it’s advised to clean your keyboard out in the open. It’s also advised to be extra careful when using compressed air from a can, as there are cases when it can lead to the formation of condensation that can damage some metallic parts on the keyboard.
You can also use a cleaning brush to remove any gunk stuck between or under the keys and quickly remove them using a vacuum cleaner. To remove sweat stains, especially ones on your keys or wrist rest, use a clean damp cloth to wipe off those marks. I would highly recommend following this simple cleanup procedure regularly to avoid the accumulation of dust, food particles, hair, and dead skin underneath the keys over time.
Deep CleaningFor those who haven’t cleaned their keyboard in a very long period, it’s time for some deep cleaning. Start by following the same process as I mentioned above to shake off any loose gunk. Next, remove all the keycaps from the keyboard. These should easily come off or be removed using a keycap puller tool usually bundled with most mechanical keyboards. If you don’t have one, you can buy one from here. Ensure that you don’t use excessive force or any heavy tools that can damage the keycaps. Be careful while removing larger keys like Spacebar, Enter, and Backspace, as they may have a stabilizer for support.
If you’ve never removed keycaps in the past, head over to your keyboard OEM’s website for guidance. Also, it’s a good habit to organize the keycaps as you remove them. You can also take a picture of the keyboard layout before taking the keycaps off, as this will help you in the faster reinstallation of the keycaps.
Once you’ve removed all of them, clean the entire deck using a cleaning brush, an air blower, or a vacuum cleaner. If you spilled something on the keyboard in the past like coffee or soda, use a damp cloth to wipe off the stains. For stubborn and sticky stains, you can use a tiny bit of dishwashing solution or isopropyl alcohol as well. Make sure you don’t use any liquids directly on the keyboard; rather apply some directly onto a cleaning cloth. This is to ensure that no liquid enters the internals, which could potentially damage the keyboard permanently. Do check the keyboard feet for any grime or dust buildup and a quick look at the keyboard cable to ensure there’s no potential damage.
Clean each keycap with a damp cloth or simply throw them in water with some soap if you want all your keys to be shiny on the inside and outside. Wipe off any stains and let them dry off. If you’ve used any liquids, I recommend leaving the keyboard and the keycaps to dry overnight. After you’ve ensured that everything is clean, start by putting back the keycaps on the mainboard. Whatever you do, be certain that everything is completely dry before plugging the keyboard into your PC.
Further MaintenanceTo further maintain the longevity of your keyboard, make sure you take time to clean it periodically. In fact, ensure that you clean all your PC parts at regular intervals if you want them to last longer. Most importantly, manage your cables. Not only does that make your setup look good, but it also ensures that the cables don’t wear out quickly. If the cable on your keyboard is long and just hanging about, use some velcro or zip ties to tidy it up.
We have also listed down some of the best mechanical keyboards to buy this year, in case you are planning to buy one.
Here is a list of some of the items mentioned above:
Dust cleaning air blower
Anti-static cleaning brush kit
Key puller
Compressed air can
Velcro straps
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Click to collapse
Sometimes prevention is better than cure I have found that using either a boot rubber cover that can be easily washed in a sink of soapy water or using a vacuum machine 2 basically sous vide pack your keyboard without impairing mechanical action can sometimes help.
When it comes down to cable cleanliness I do find that bundles of cables on my desktop lead to collection of dust particles and dirt and with a high powered PC blowing 40 degree temperature air around the room this can sometimes become a major problem. I myself invested in a fairly cheap mouse and keyboard wireless setup some years ago that were both designed to shun any liquid spills this means there were membranes internally that stop any tea coffee or soft drink from invading their vitals. Also this removes the need to worry about extraneous cabling..
D.
I clean the keyboard with an air duster and sometimes cover it with a clean cloth when I don't use it. But sometimes I feel it needs deep cleaning.