Database Users

stylus problem in/out

hello to everybody!
i got my xda trion 2 weeks ago. after one week, it was impossible to bring the stylus into the xda. so i got a new one.
after again one week, the stylus wont come out of the trion.
someone else prob's with the stylus?
greetings
karl

+ 1, probleme like a wizard too

same ting happened with my TyTN today...

+1 with one week old tytn

Same here...
First I couldn't get it out / then I couldn't get it in / then it would simply slide in-and-out freely to the point that only gravity was holding it in place (sorry if this sounds dirty, but this is what happened).
Had to have mine replaced. I've heard this issue has been around since the Wizard...
I really hope I don't have the same problem on TyTn #2!!!

After a few days of having mine suddenly the stylus was becoming enromously difficult to remove. At one point it just wasnt moving so after a forceful tug it pulled out and a tiny transparent square of plastic/rubber fell out with it. Looks like it was in there to keep it in place but i have no idea how to put it back in. Now the stylus removes fine and stays in place too :shock:

I had the same problem.
Could not get the staylus in with my TyTN.
So I did the mistake and pushed it in... a "knack" sound alerted me that something bad happened. Could not get the stylus in still... so I yanked a small rubber plastic piece from the stylus hole on my TyTN. Now I can slide easily the stylus in.
From teh reports I heard my guess is that the rubebr plastic inside the TyTN is used to firmly hold the stylus in. While without this rubebr plastic there is nothing to hold the stylus until you fully place it inside the TyTN.

andmjones said:
After a few days of having mine suddenly the stylus was becoming enromously difficult to remove. At one point it just wasnt moving so after a forceful tug it pulled out and a tiny transparent square of plastic/rubber fell out with it. Looks like it was in there to keep it in place but i have no idea how to put it back in. Now the stylus removes fine and stays in place too :shock:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same here TyTN 1 week old.

same here,
think I'll swap mine over for a new one.....

raptorian said:
I had the same problem.
Could not get the staylus in with my TyTN.
So I did the mistake and pushed it in... a "knack" sound alerted me that something bad happened. Could not get the stylus in still... so I yanked a small rubber plastic piece from the stylus hole on my TyTN. Now I can slide easily the stylus in.
From teh reports I heard my guess is that the rubebr plastic inside the TyTN is used to firmly hold the stylus in. While without this rubebr plastic there is nothing to hold the stylus until you fully place it inside the TyTN.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same here in 5 days

happend with me after 2 weeks. I've been struggling for a week, and now it's workng again! Don't know how long it will last. I hope it won't brake down, I bought Hermes thrue internetshop. Always sick to return things.

I carry something like this, and only use the tytn stylus in emergencies. I'm hoping this will reduce wear.

Same here - less than 2 weeks.
:shock:

Same here 5 days, luckley I had a replacment on order for BT problems recived that today lets see how this one goes.

me 2
my TYTN's stylus wouldn't stay in the hole.
i sent my tytn to be replaced (due to BT problems and screen alignment)
and i hope i t won't happen again.
when i put the tytn in the box to be sent so the stylus stopped falling :? )
that is odd

My stylus is a little difficult to remove at times, so I had a look down inside the stylus hole and it appears that there are three of those little pink rubber squares protruding from the side and a dark rubber 'socket' at the end to grip the tip when it's fully inserted. The pink squares are obviously there to provide a little more grip along the length of the stylus, but my guess is that even without them the 'socket' at the end would hold the stylus in place. I imagine that over time the pink rubber will either soften up or disintegrate entirely with the friction.

Solution stylus problem
I had the same problem with my stylus, my solution is take a Poster Buddy Brand name Pritt it is so called here in Holland you can place posters and photo's with it on wals, doors etc. looks like white rubber glue, think I see it in the UK with the name Sticky here you can buy it with photostores and bookstores etc. Take a small piece of it turn it between your vingers to a small ball and put it in the stylus hole after that push it to the end with your stylus.
After I do this I have no further problem with the stylus it works great.

Same issue here... the 2nd day I had it a small transparent square rubber went out of the stylus hole. Now i can put it in and out without problems...

Loose/Jammed Stylus
I'm afraid sending device back for replacement/repair for the stylus problem and loose locking keyboard may only be a temporary fix. Having had my device dismantled I can see exactly what the problesms are with both stylus and keyboard.
For the stylus there is a small block of clear plastic designed to create a friction lock to stop it falling out. There is luckily another small plastic spring lock at the far end so if the stylus is fully in it should click in and not drop out even without the plastic block. The problem is that the plastic block is not held firmly in its slot and as it gets loose creates far too much friction against the stylus which can then drag it right out.
The loose keyboards are due to the metal runners (that you see on back of keyboard partially springing apart (breaking tiny micro welds) at the ends where they lock (or not!) open and closed. These runners if they have sprung open like this will never lock firmly again unless you perform a bit of DIY.
I have performed small operations to fix both these problems and my Keyboard now locks very firmly both open and closed. The stylus issue is dealt with internally with a felt runner at a specific location. BEWARE of course performing these operations will invalidate your warranty. I can be much more specific for anyone who wishes to contact me directly particularly with the keyboard issue which requires quite a chore in dismantling the device - though I can now perform this in half an hour start to finish (Not something I'm proud of with a new device, but I had to workout just how to do the fixes!! )
Actually otherwise I think TYTN is great - superb in fact which is why I did not send it back for repair - couldn't bear to be without it!.
PS Finger around the screen method works every time for me forget all that align screen caper.
Mike

@mikechannon: Do you have high quality pictures of disassembled device where we can see the chipset references? we need to gather information on the hardware used inside the Hermes...

Hermes Keyboard

Hi,
I am just checking on my new Softbank Hermes
Just noticed that the keys the farthest right of the keyboard are little bit deeper (or sunk) that the ones on the left...but they response perfectly.
Are your unit the same ?
Thanks

anyone ? I have 3 days for exchange ..

I have an HTC Tytn and my keyboard is not like that.

My T key has a big oval of paint scraped off of it, and the backlight shows through, seems the center of my keyboard had a hump in it.
If you can exchange it, I likely would.

sectorlord said:
Hi,
I am just checking on my new Softbank Hermes
Just noticed that the keys the farthest right of the keyboard are little bit deeper (or sunk) that the ones on the left...but they response perfectly.
Are your unit the same ?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Internally the Hermes has on one side of the keyboard (can't remember if this is shown on the wiki pictures) a foam rubber block running from the qwerty row down to the spacebar row. At the opposite end this is absent as internal parts make up the gap. It does not surprise me that there is some uneven-ness in external appearance though this should be very minimal. If your keyboard works perfectly I'd hang onto it given numerous reported problems with unresponsiveness of keys.
My keyboard if anything is a fraction higher in central area but not so high it scrapes on screen assembly.
Mike

Hi Mike,
Thanks for the tip...
Browsing from the pics, youre right, the left side has this foam block and the other side has none. That's why the keyboard is high on the left side and slowly sinking going to the right...(around half of millimeter..)
My unit is working perfectly, and I dont want to change it if the unit would be the same.... it might be the design ,...

sectorlord said:
Hi Mike,
My unit is working perfectly, and I dont want to change it if the unit would be the same.... it might be the design ,...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Quite right would be a gamble. Was just about to guide you to pictures just as you replied saying you'd seen them!!
Mike

Dont know why you have a hump on the center part of your keyboard...your foam block might be in the center in your case ?
I also saw that the keyboard PCB is fixed by a clip on the right and a black thing on the left side...do you know what's this thing ?
so...there a way to "perfect it" by putting a slightly thinner foam on the right side to equalize the pressure...
Do you have a pic on how to do it ?

Screen Rotation

Hi All,
I have updated to the latest AKU3 ROMs and also a few months ago I replaced the housing...However, I've noticed that the screen does not automatically rotate when the screen is swivelled??
Now is this because I did something during re-assembly of the housing OR is there something in the ROM's that disables the hardware somehow??
Cheers
ODY

Unlikely to be the rom, since it's part of the system HTC provided.
If it's been disassembled it's more likely that.
V

vijay555 said:
Unlikely to be the rom, since it's part of the system HTC provided.
If it's been disassembled it's more likely that.
V
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hey VJ, sorry to bother but do you know what jumper/cable/connector/switch to jump/disconnect/tape inside the Universal to keep it from switching?

I'm sure I saw someone mention that the screen rotation is done by a magnet and switch? It's possible that maybe a small magnet fell out during disassembly? But I have looked throught the Universal repair manual and I can't find any reference to such a magnet??

I'd be nice to know exactly where it is so one would be able to take it out, if it were easy. I don't know if I wanna disasemble mine yet...
EDIT found it!! If you use a very, very light metal chain, as I did, with a keyring @ end, you can hover it around the Universal and see the tension of the chain when it's near the magnet. the keyring sticks too!
it's on the lid, behind the video-call video camera. I'm going to check the lid part of the manual.

Well taking the screen section apart is easy! You don't have to disassemble the whole unit. Looks like my magnet fell out then! Trouble is I want to sell mine so I'll just have to declare the auto screen rotate doesn't work (I've made sure that there is the rotate screen icon on the task bar though!!)
Cheers
Ody

odyseus said:
Well taking the screen section apart is easy! You don't have to disassemble the whole unit. Looks like my magnet fell out then! Trouble is I want to sell mine so I'll just have to declare the auto screen rotate doesn't work (I've made sure that there is the rotate screen icon on the task bar though!!)
Cheers
Ody
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
it works!! I tested it with the very small and highly magnetic point in the bezel of my tablet PC (to hold the pen) and it did change orientation.
thing is that it seems to be stuck beside the sound-holes (when the unit is closed).
I wonder how could I disassemble the lid only? are none of those screws @ the bottom connected to the back part of the lid? if so, that would be awesome!

Hi, on the xda's ftp, you'll find the maintenance manual for Universal...may help you to disassemble yours

thanx for the link!
however, it seems rather risky to try to pry the bezel open while still on the unit. Anyways I'm doing it right know. I'll get back to you.

I did pry it out and took the magnet off... painless(*) procedure and flea-sized magnet! don't loose!
I took a couple of pictures detailing the magnet position and the lid disassembled while still on the unit.
if you want to do this procedure do not loose the tiny screws and...
(*) be careful with the outer speaker (the one that lets you hear a call while the screen is facing the keyboard when closed), it isn't hard wired, it's just two small and fine contacts that might get distorted when putting the lid cover back... I had to take mine out again to correct this problem.
also, be careful with the screw driver and digitizer, as you'll be working in very akward positions to avoid disassembling the whole unit, and take off the battery of course.

Thanks for the photos - looks like my magnet feel out so I bought some 1/8 inch square magnets from ebay. It took a couple to find the sweet spot where the screen rotated but at least it works fibe now!
Cheers
Ody

odyseus said:
Thanks for the photos - looks like my magnet feel out so I bought some 1/8 inch square magnets from ebay. It took a couple to find the sweet spot where the screen rotated but at least it works fibe now!
Cheers
Ody
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
no problem. I'm also going to put the magnet back, now the unit doesn't now when it's closed, and therefore the outer speaker does not work. the screen also does not turn off when closed, only when the system timer tells it too... oh well.

you can turn the screen off by pressing the power button briefly.
no ext speaker though! maybe there's a way in software to disable just the rotation; i think the guys trying to get linux comfortable on the universal have some experience with it, maybe they can help.

Keyboard Bulge

My 8525 dropped out of the case on to the cement. The only damage seems to be a little bubble in the keyboard around the 'ghjk' keys. Everything still works fine, but it is a little annoying.
Any ideas? Any quick fix? Would this be covered under warrany, as ive only had it 5 months? (hopefully its still under warranty)
Any help is greatly appreciated.
thanks
tut

post pics ....

Simple solution.
The same thing happened to me.
If you look just below the bottom row of keys you will notice that there is a now a gap between the keys and the outer plastic case.
there are little clips on the left and the right below the bottom keyss and whats happened is that the little clips have come out and up and are pushing against the plastic below the bottom keys.
you just need to push down on the clips so that they move down a little and then they will clip into place.
This is whats causing the bubble.

HTC Raider/Vivid/Velocity Digitizer

Hi guys - got a question re: potentially restoring full function to a glitchy digitizer panel I bought as a replacement for my original (broken) one. I know this isn't a Q&A forum but anyone in here is likely going to have more knowledge of the digitizer from a hardware aspect than anyone in the general Q&A forums..I hope.
I had no trouble installing the panel, physically - the design was identical to the original and I took care when shaping the ribbon cable so as not to damage it. My problem is this: My digitizer seems to "skip" one contact point on both the x and y axis so that there is a dead area on my panel which makes text input quite a hassle. I can get it to read input from the area if I touch VERY gently and very accurately, but other than that it takes input from the sensors around the actual point I'm touching, like its getting more capacitive feedback from those areas than from where I'm actually touching.
I hope thats not too confusing. Basically there's a nonresponsive vertical line down the right side of my screen 1" from the edge, and another one 1" up from the bottom going horizontally. At the point where these lines intersect I have a hell of a time getting it to recognize where I'm touching accurately. I've tried the HTC screen calibration tool to no avail.
I'm wondering if anyone has any tricks I can try to get this sucker working properly.. Its slowly driving me crazy. I saw one guy on youtube take a much larger digitizer from another device and take a lighter to the glass side for a few seconds, then apply pressure to the heated areas on both sides of the glass, sandwiching it together and (I assume) reattaching or more firmly attaching the plastic film to the inside of the glass. I don't want to try this without first asking if its wise here, and see what more experienced people have to say on the subject. I may be way off here and there's a simple fix, I just haven't been able to find one.
Help!? LOL..*someone* in here must have some experience with this, no??
Thanks in advance for any replies. Helpful or otherwise.