Battery Consumption; Statistically. - XPERIA X10 General

Hi all,
Just bothering with battery consumption for a while.. I'm getting fun now. So I want to share something first.
In this thread, instead of showing how to save the battery usage, I will focus on the statistic figure.
To be easy to read, read this instruction first
all units are in 'percent/hour'
That's mean
16.7% = 6 hours.
8.33% = 12 hours.
4.16% = 1 day.
2.08% = 2 days.
1.04% = 4 days.
So compare by yourself.
Some Legends
ATK = Keep using of Task Killer from Time to Time (Not automatically)
2G = GSM
3G = WCDMA
SetCPU = Software that automatically reduce CPU frequency when not-in-need.
JD = JuiceDefender
Color
Green = Data has good repeatability, or in easy word; you can trust it.
Orange = Bad repeatability, use as guide only.
Red = Just draft one, too small sampling
Not-in-use (leaving in sleep state)
2.39% = 3G + SetCPU + ATK
3.03% = 3G - SetCPU + ATK + JD
2.45% = 3G + SetCPU - ATK + JD
3.17% = 3G + SetCPU - ATK + JD (Leave some CPU eater behind)
1.20% = 2G + SetCPU + ATK + JD
0.60% = Flightmode + ATK + SetCPU +JD
6.36% = Leaving droid in-charger after it's full, (Flight Mode)
2.57% = 3G + SetCPU + ATK + JD + Bluetooth (Unpair)
3.71% = 3G + SetCPU - ATK + JD + Bluetooth (Paired)
In Use (in most case, + 3G - SetCPU + ATK + JD)
13.04% = CALL
16.04% = Music via Ex-Speaker
14.04% = Music via Ex-Speaker (2G)
11.80% = Music via Bluetooth
8.54% = Music via 3.5" port.
22.22% = Heavy 3D game
24.80% = Wifi Tether (Barnacle)
14.89% = Web, common
In term of Signal Strength, not-in-use state
2.8-5.5% = 3G, v.bad signal, (0-1 bar)
1.7-2.8% = 3G, good signal (2-3 bars)
1.2-1.7% = 3G, v.good signal (3-4 bars)
0.9-1.3% = 2G, good signal (2-3 bars)
0.7-0.9% = 2G, v.good signal (3-4 bars)
Few Executive Conclusion
SetCPU DOES help, but not that big deal.
ATK DOES help, remember that droid can handle memory very well, but still not to CPU. some S/W with CPU consumption can still make it worse. So best keep killing it from time-to-time, may be just before long sleep.
2G DOES give a big difference, in both term, 2G technology give less bandwidth but also require less effort to maintain connection.
Don't leave your droid in the charger after fully-charged.
Signal Strength gives BIG difference, if your location is not in good signal coverage, switch to 2G might helps.
BTW, for all the further question.
I'm using a veteran x10, second handed, with heavily damaged battery (I guessed 70-75% efficiency) on the very first day I could survive only 4 hours with full charged (no doubt why I could buy it very cheaply ), well... now 2 days with moderate use. .. with above figure, I can live 5-6 days if I want (to use it as a brick...)
I use phone as a PHONE. So, all synchronization, screen brightness, is not reduced.
My JuiceDefender just use the default setting, nothing special.
My SetCPU only effects sleep mode.
My Song Player is TuneWiki
My Home is ADW from Market.
Root, unroot, just don't care.
And yes, it's 026.
I just hope my number can make you figure out, what happen to your phone.
Any curiosity, you can ask me to do a favor.
Have a nice (battery) day.

Here's little comparison for 2.1, I don't have plenty time now, sorry for that.
Legend is (1.6 vs 2.1)
Unit remain, percentage per hours
Full 3G/HSDPA signal - idle state -----01.20% vs 00.85%
Mid 3G/HSDPA signal - idle state -----02.30% vs 01.46%
Charge Speed -----------------------27.54% vs 33.55%
Bluetooth + Music (TuneWiki) --------11.80% vs 08.42%
Voice Recorder (mid lvl-signal 3G) ----06.68% vs 04.42%
Added 11/3
Flight Mode -------------------------00.60% vs 00.28%

That's pretty informative although I haven't understood it fully (yet)

Good Info. Thanks for taking the pain to write all the information.

Great thread mate. What settings are you using for ATK?

Herr Noobien said:
Great thread mate. What settings are you using for ATK?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
None, mostly manual.
Just to make sure that the battery life were based on cpu, not ram.
So i just killed most process before idle state. Vs. Open whatever i have till ram had run out, then left it in idle state.

Related

Battery life draining too fast; "Android OS" to blame?

I've noticed that my battery life is draining somewhat faster than seems reasonable...
After 7 hours away from my charger I'm at 36% remaining, and frankly haven't used the phone much today. Two 5 minute calls and a bit of playing with email.
The battery status shows that 'Android OS' is using 43% of the battery at the moment. Next after that is the screen at 19%.
Is that normal? Or have I installed something that is draining away at it? What is the best app to identify the malevolent drainer?
Many thanks in advance!
my "Android OS" is always somewhere around 2-3%. You running stock build? mebby reboot the phone and check again?
Stock build.
Have rebooted and killed most of the apps that came along with the reboot. Will watch it over the rest of the day and see if the problem repeats.
Screen usually 70% Android 2-3%.
Mine was horrible then i saw an app G backup.that I had on auto eating up 40%... changed it to manual and eliminated that and an overheating issue... Wierd.
I have been having issues with battery life also. My cell standby was using 65-85% between charges. It would go down to 20-25% battery life after 7-8 hrs with little to no use. I did a factory reset and everything was great for one day, cell standby dropped to about 4%. I added some apps, recharged overnight, and in the morning after 1 hr battery was down to 80%, cell standby back up to 75%. not sure if it's an app i installed or not. At home i have been using a different micro usb charger, not the stock one. I'm wondering if that could be the cause. I did a 2nd factory wipe this morning and now cell standy is back to 4%. I'm going to only use the OEM charger and only add apps 1 at a time to try and narrow down the cause.
do you have the 3g problem?
my guess is ... if your phone keep switching between 3g/edge or umts/hsdpa
you keep using wireless radio and thus consumes much more power
no, I've never had any 3g problems, other than only getting a max download speed of about .8Mbps.
I called HTC about the high cell standby usage and they suggested - turning screen brightness all the way down, turn off GPS, turn off bluetooth, turn off wifi, etc... If I have to have everything turned off so my battery won't die then what's the point of having an otherwise awesome phone. It's been an hour now since unplugging and cell standby is at 20%, battery life at 98%. I guess we'll see...
Battery issues are almost always due to apps (or services) running, especially ones that are constantly using a data connection.
That's why Apple don't allow the iphone to run anything in the background ;-)
If it was fine after reset and then bad after you added some apps then you know one of them is to blame......
My nexus one has been unplugged for 24 hours now and is at 66% (fairly light use in that time to be fair).
it's possible that android synching could cause usage to spike to those levels, but that shouldn't be happening very often.
I leave syncing on all the time and my phone is easily 14 or 15 hours to get to 20% with what sounds like heavier usage than what konsta is reporting.
I read some guy solved most of the battery issues by turning off GPS. I'm now following this practise after a full charge from completely dead to see how it goes. I normally have to charge once per day, I do use the phone quite a lot, not much for phone calls though, twitter, facebook, sms, tech news etc!
I think that my "Android OS" drain must have been a one-time event (hope so, anyway). After my reboot I'm now up to cell standby as my primary usage. I've spent a fair bit of time in the last few hours in patchy signal areas, so seems fair.
Will see how long it lasts tomorrow.
I agree that the GPS seems to be the biggest battery killer. Completely drained my machine in next to no time when I was playing with Copilot live.
I am actually impressed with the battery life on the n1. I can keep GPS on and use it, playing games on the train and answering emails and calls all day long with seesmic constantly running and easily get through the entire day. If I don't charge it overnight I will be about 15-20% remainig in the morning. I have stock android os on an unlocked n1.
Power drain solved....
Hi every one.
My battery life to was abismal, that was until I read this over on Modaco.
GSM 2G+3G ("WCDMA preferred") drains battery over 5 times faster than exclusive 3G ("WCDMA Only")
Average battery drain / hour when phone is idle with screen off:
1-Standard shipping mode WCDMA prefered, i.e. both 2G and 3G enabled, Wifi off): 10% / hour
2-Alternate WCDMA Only mode, 3G exclusively, no Wifi: 1.7% / hour
So I tried changing the phone settings from WCDMA prefered to WCDMA only. WOW battery life instanly better!!! 3G still works and phone OK.
To do this enter *#*#4636#*#* on phone dial pad, select phone information, then scroll down to selection box, change set preferred network type to WCDMA only. Switch phone to airplane mode, then switch airplane off and watch your battery performance increase by 300% plus...
gadjet said:
Hi every one.
My battery life to was abismal, that was until I read this over on Modaco.
GSM 2G+3G ("WCDMA preferred") drains battery over 5 times faster than exclusive 3G ("WCDMA Only")
Average battery drain / hour when phone is idle with screen off:
1-Standard shipping mode WCDMA prefered, i.e. both 2G and 3G enabled, Wifi off): 10% / hour
2-Alternate WCDMA Only mode, 3G exclusively, no Wifi: 1.7% / hour
So I tried changing the phone settings from WCDMA prefered to WCDMA only. WOW battery life instanly better!!! 3G still works and phone OK.
To do this enter *#*#4636#*#* on phone dial pad, select phone information, then scroll down to selection box, change set preferred network type to WCDMA only. Switch phone to airplane mode, then switch airplane off and watch your battery performance increase by 300% plus...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you on T-Mobile?
gadjet said:
Hi every one.
My battery life to was abismal, that was until I read this over on Modaco.
GSM 2G+3G ("WCDMA preferred") drains battery over 5 times faster than exclusive 3G ("WCDMA Only")
Average battery drain / hour when phone is idle with screen off:
1-Standard shipping mode WCDMA prefered, i.e. both 2G and 3G enabled, Wifi off): 10% / hour
2-Alternate WCDMA Only mode, 3G exclusively, no Wifi: 1.7% / hour
So I tried changing the phone settings from WCDMA prefered to WCDMA only. WOW battery life instanly better!!! 3G still works and phone OK.
To do this enter *#*#4636#*#* on phone dial pad, select phone information, then scroll down to selection box, change set preferred network type to WCDMA only. Switch phone to airplane mode, then switch airplane off and watch your battery performance increase by 300% plus...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you on T-Mobile? Do you have a fairly strong 3g. signal ? if one did have a fairly strong 3g signal would this still be advisable?
rockky said:
Are you on T-Mobile? Do you have a fairly strong 3g. signal ? if one did have a fairly strong 3g signal would this still be advisable?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi rockky.
No I am on Orange, I usually only get a full strength 3G at my works and not usually at home, however since getting a Nexus 1 i now get a limited 3G at home..
after uninstalling mobile defense and city caller id my bat went back to normal.
I noticed pretty good battery improvement when I turned off GPS (only turn it on when I need it).

Psuh Email and battery life

Hi guys,
I just want to know, what battery life are you guys getting with push email turned on. I have to charge my phone almost twice a day with reasonable use.
10 emails
1 hour calls
4 sms
1 hour web browsing
(no wifi or gps)
I can get 3 days with push switched on if I only use 2G and don't use the phone very much.
ie. push isn't a big battery drain in itself.
Maybe push is not big battery drain but being connected to 3G or HSDPA network is BBBBBBIIIIIGGGG battery drain.
I can get through near the week (5 or 6 days) making a few phone calls and SMS with Data Off whereas with 3G on, I will barely last 2 days (and surfing in the train when going to work (2h), battery will not last a day !!). And as push mail implies data on, I would say that it has an impact !!
3G kills the battery.
You can still push email through 2g.
I wonder if someone can create a program that will automatically switch the modes on and off depending on the amount of data being transmitted?
aad4321 said:
still nothing out there to switch it to 2g when the screen is off huh?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
THAT! would be an awesome feature.
Data = radio being used, display = live wallpapers and the amount of time the screen stays on plus other additions are a big battery drain but sync in itself isn't that bad even on 3G and I have a G1 with its crappy battery.
Check Settings...About Phone...Battery Use to see what is using the most power. This can help identify unexpected battery drain.
For example some people also forget about widgets that use data like the weather and news widget. To maximize battery turn off all "background data" apps that you don't really use.
Also get Advanced Task Killer and set it to auto kill apps that you don't want running long term (be sure to setup the exclude list for those you want running).
You can use the Power Control widget to enable and disable unused items like Wifi, bluetooth, GPS, and background data.
Set your screen brightness to as low comfortable. On my phone the screen uses the most battery so this is important. You can use the Power Control widget to increase brightness quickly if needed.
Use 2G to save battery. For most stuff it's really not that bad. Use Wifi when you can as uses less power than 2G and is faster than 3G.
I use my phone a lot and it lasts all day. I don't really care if it lasts longer than 16 hours or so if it does all the fun stuff I want between charges.
^Excellent tips! Welcome to XDA!

[GUIDE] SGS2+Android can be power efficient - One successful configuration

1. Abstract
2. Approach
3. Baseline configuration and results
4. References
5. Disclaimer
1. Abstract
Initially I was quite dissapointed with the battery life of the Samsung Galaxy S II i9100 with Android 2.3.4 out of the box. Coming from the Symbian world Nokia E71 I have been used to 6-7 days without recharging, while on SGS2 I got barely 1.5 days of normal usage. I started to optimize, and felt that the hardware is very capable for power saving, but the software is not optimized. After turning off all synchronization, going thru every program settings to switch to manual sync, switching to 2G network (EDGE in my area), turning off WiFi/Data/GPS/Background data I've got a busy day full of meetings at work (didn't touch the phone apart from 2 incoming calls and a few notes) and only 10% decrease of battery for 24h (100%->90%) which is amazing by itself. But I wanted to optimize more.
I have heard that other things like Custom ROM, freezing of system applications, task killers, Under Volting (UV), Under Clocking (UV) would help me too, but I was about to discover which one really helps in real use.
One lazy Sunday like today while being a bit sick allowed me to conclude an experiment of how far did I get in optimizing the power usage for a "baseline configuration" - WiFi/Data/GPS/Background data off, 2G network, all possible sync to manual - and the results are astonishing.
2. Approach
The approach to optimize the battery life is only one - PUT IT TO SLEEP AND DON'T LET IT AWAKE.
Having read a ton of articles on xda-developers.com and other places I have concluded that the strategy for optimizing includes these major steps:
2.1. Get a clean baseline Custom ROM where much of the "bloatware" is removed, so you have less to optimize - optional step but it helps to do it
This probably helps although not necessary. I'm not sure if the stock ROM will allow you to put custom kernels which will be needed in the next steps to optimize further.
But in any case you need to be at least "rooted" to apply some of the advice - either via a rooted kernel like CF-Root [8], or via an exploit like the DooMLoRD'a zergRush exploit [7].
2.2. Optimize the screen-on time
This is up to how frequently you use the phone
What you can optimize is to set a default "conservative" CPU Governor profile from 200MHZ to 1200MHz for regular usage - nothing really special, it's only slower on jumping to high frequencies.
If you have a kernel like RedPill Kernel [9] you can add an additional In-Call profile with "conservative" CPU Governor from 100MHZ to 800MHz - while you talk and phone to the ear it idles at 100MHz, but if you start a let's say Notes taking application, or go to turn on Bluetooth it will be snappy enough. Same holds true for listening to music or listening to books - but it's up to your imagination how to set a 100MHz profile in this case (maybe via Tasker). Have in mind that the 100MHz setting may be unstable on some phones because it's not standard, but mine is absolutely fine with that setting.
For setting the CPU profiles software like Voltage Control [5] (paid version for many profiles) is used.
CPU Governor "conservative" is crucial so you don't instantly jump to the highest frequency as it happens with the default "ondemand" governor (or its clones).
You can choose an I/O Scheduler appropriate for your CPU Governor based on the MagicConfig article in my references [14].
People also say that the following helps and I use it: turn off button LED lights, darker wallpapers, auto-rotation disabled, auto brightness on (I have to see the screen after all).
If you use kernel like RedPill Kernel [9] the button LED lights are undervolted by default, so you can leave them "on for 1.5s" for example.
If you have a Custom ROM like CheckROM Revolution HD V6 [10] with JKay Deluxe Settings you can set a Dark or Darker auto brightness profile - also usable to some extent.
One article in my references [12] also gives the power drain in milliwatts (mW) for each hardware device - go read it and you will understand how much the Amoled Display (Average - 370mW), LED lamp next to camera (1.3W), Camera (700mW), Bluetooth and GPS (110 to 180mW) etc. hardware actually consumes.
2.3. Optimize the screen-off time
2.3.1. Analyze Wakelocks
Wakelocks indicate when some application prevents the phone from going to sleep for some time. It does not necessarily mean that it does something significant at that time, and may be only a bad application design. Some applications really like to hold wakelocks periodically during the day for no reason, even if set to Manual sync etc. Examples of such applications are Facebook, 3G Watchdog... You milleage may vary but you can be sure that this hurts your battery life a lot. Any such application can be frozen with Titanium Backup or uninstalled if it's not a system application. Both count and total duration of the wakelocks are important.
BetterBatteryStats [1] has a screen to debug Partial Wakelocks and Kernel Wakelocks. You can also obtain the raw information via the console command "cat /proc/wakelocks".
2.3.2. Analyze Alarms
Alarms are a way to start jobs in the system at a predefined time. Many applications set alarms to get awaken and check/poll something before sleeping again. You should note that firing an Alarm is not necessarily connected to having a Wakelock - you can see many alarms firing but very few wakelocks. The problem is that too many applications set too many alarms for no reason. These activities also hurt your battery life a lot. Examples of such applications are Google Maps (at least for me)... As long as I have another GPS application with offline maps, I've simply frozen Maps with Titanium Backup. Another example was let's say Social Hub, but as long it was firing once per 24h, I didn't bother to touch it.
BetterBatteryStats [1] has a screen to debug Alarms which requires Root access. You can also obtain the raw information via the console command "dumpsys alarm".
2.3.3. Analyze Network Connections
If you get lost in the Wakelocks and Alarms, you can help yourself by checking what connections are kept alive while Internet is connected. OS Monitor [3] has a Connections screen which is equivalent to "netstat". This is also a good indicator what may be drawing unnecessary battery and respectively freeze/uninstall. In my case I can point that I've discovered that K-9 Mail had a bug with IMAP accounts - if I connect to an IMAP account set to manual/poll sync once, it keeps a connection open forever, until you restart or kill the process, but for POP3 account there is no problem... Being aware of such things really help with the battery life.
2.4. Optimize deep idle and sleep time
This is the most important goal in this article - how to get into deep idle/sleep and stay there, because this is the only real way to save energy on such a powerful device
CPU Spy [2] can show you how much time you spend in deep idle/sleep - with my baseline testing I've managed to get 99% deep idle/sleep which is amazing - only if the manufacturers gave us the phones in this state and we can build on that...! But it's the other way round.
Unfortunately the sleep mode on the stock kernel and the CF-Root kernel is not too deep. Entropy512 in my references [15] describes the following modes of idle/sleep:
IDLE - clock is gated but power remains (does not eliminate any static power consumption)
AFTR - clock is gated, CPU core power removed, cache power remains - this eliminates a great deal of static power consumption - cannot be entered if second core is active
LPA - AFTR + removal of cache power - cannot be entered if second core is active
IDLE is entered if the CPU is expected to be free for 4 msec (40 msec stock)
AFTR is entered if the CPU is expected to be free for 10 msec (disabled stock)
LPA is entered if the CPU is expected to be free for 40 msec (40 msec stock)
This compares to suspend, aka deep sleep, which takes around 150 msec to enter and 650 msec to resume, and the CPU must be at 800 MHz (or at least have enough voltage to support 800 MHz operation) during this time. Entering suspend/resume is very costly in terms of power due to heavy interrupt load.
Unfortunately my knowledge ends here, but flashing a kernel like RedPill [9] with Power Saving features and patches enabled improved the deepness of the idle/sleep very significantly, let's say 2 fold compared to the stock kernel. Sleep is entered faster and with more savings.
2.5. Optimize the modem/baseband
If all the points above are done, you can consider some savings from trying to flash newer modem/baseband compatible with your Custom ROM for better power savings during Calls and Data transmission. I did not get deep into this yet, but it's rather a big Voodoo, because the contents of the various modems are not public and you can only read feedback like "works very good for me" and "totally awful", which is not very scientific. Initially you can try staying with your original modem or the one provided by the Custom ROM, and optimize the previous points.
2.6. Optimize other stuff
2.6.1. Under Volting - will probably help, but for every frequency you need to choose voltages that are not too low to keep the phone stable. You can try the UV profile from the MagicConfig article from my references [14].
2.6.2. Under Clocking - I consider trying to use 100MHz useful for some scenarios, but only as an additional profile. After all the phone is very powerful and snappy to cripple it with 100MHz-1000MHz profile as default.
2.6.3. Automatic Task Killers - absolutely worthless peaces of software [16]. Android OS is good at power saving. It is very power saving conscious actually, of course combined with capable to sleep hardware. The only reason to kill a process is if it locked on holding some resource/connection forever, and OS Monitor [3] can kill it.
2.6.4. Battery charging - charge the battery as frequently as you want, but be sure to not keep it constantly on high charge (90-100%) [18], as long as this is not a good state for storage. Making bigger cycles helps to maintain better battery life. Some sources say cycling from 0% to 100% is not optimal [17], but from my experience through the years this way also works good for battery longevity, and maintaining small loss of capacity. I can give an example of losing up to 10% of battery capacity per year compared to design capacity with this method. You can view such statistics in Power Management tools in Lenovo ThinkPads etc.
Note that the battery indicator has some tweaks around 100% so consider the following:
- When charging for me it hops from 98% straight to 100%. If you disconnect now, it drops to 98% again, and this is what other people complain from too. Just wait some more time and it will charge to real 100% to have more battery life.
- The indicator stays at 100% longer than at any other value. So when testing, always test from the same baseline, e.g. always charge to 100% before comparing results.
3. Baseline configuration and results
CheckROM Revolution HD V6 PDA XWLA4 (Android 2.3.6) + modem XXKI4 (was XWKL1 but changed for no reason) + kernel RedPill 1.3.
WiFi/Data/GPS/Background data/Auto-rotation/Button LED lights - OFF
Any type of Sync or Polling - OFF/MANUAL, using local Contacts and local Calendar
Widgets - AccuWeather.com on MANUAL and Today view from Calendar.
Network: 2G (EDGE in my area)
Background and lock screen: Dark wallpapers
CPU default profile: conservative 200MHz-1200MHz
CPU in-call profile: conservative 100MHz-800Mhz
Because I don't want to wait a full day for the statistics, I'll post now for 8 and 12 hours, and tomorrow add for 24 hours.
(See the attached images, because I'm not sure how to embed them in the text)
4. References
[1] BetterBatteryStats XDA Edition - http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1179809
[2] CPU Spy - https://market.android.com/details?id=com.bvalosek.cpuspy
[3] OS Monitor - https://market.android.com/details?id=com.eolwral.osmonitor
[4] Titanium Backup (paid version) - http://matrixrewriter.com/android/
[5] Voltage Control - https://market.android.com/details?id=com.darekxan.voltagecontrol
[6] Android Terminal Emulator by Jack Palevich - https://market.android.com/details?id=jackpal.androidterm
[7] DooMLoRD's Easy Rooting Toolkit [v4.0](zergRush Exploit) - http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1321582
[8] CF-Root Kernel - http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=788108
[9] RedPillKernel_Rev1.3 - http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1288850
[10] CheckROM Revolution HD V6 - http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1312240, http://checkrom.com/
[11] Premium Dark Wallpapers - http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1474798
[12] Kernel Governors, Modules, I/O Schedulers, CPU Tweaks - http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1369817
[13] Getting the Most out of the Battery on your Android device - http://softbanksucks.blogspot.com/2011/10/getting-most-out-of-your-battery-on.html
[14] MagicConfig for UV and CPU Governor + I/O Scheduler combinations - http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1466017
[15] Entropy512 explained CPU idle states - http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=23252902&postcount=17
[16] Android Task Killers Explained - http://lifehacker.com/5650894/andro...ed-what-they-do-and-why-you-shouldnt-use-them
[17] Li-Ion Battery Charge Cycles, Voltages and Storage analysis - http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteries
[18] IBM/Lenovo recommendations on Li-Ion battery treatment - http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=23258191&postcount=19
5. Disclaimer
Paid apps are mentioned here for clarity. You can of course find an alternative if such exists. Free (no ads) versions of software were listed where possible.
Needless to say that all advice here must be applied only under your own responsibility.
Results at 25h usage: The battery indicator has dropped down to 94%.
However it's a bit hard to predict how much is it going to last this way as long as after initially staying at the value "100%" the indicator decreases a bit faster.
See attached screenshots.
Thanks for the detailed post but i still don't understand why people insist on having a smart phone and then turning off any good feature in it to get 2 days of work out of it.
Agent_Adodas said:
Thanks for the detailed post but i still don't understand why people insist on having a smart phone and then turning off any good feature in it to get 2 days of work out of it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That depends if you dont want xxxx app running every day why run it and why let it connect on a daily basis . Its a Smartphone not a dumbphone that controls the user .Nothing in the Smartphone design says hey guy you are really uncool if you don't have everything turned on .
I turn on what i want when i want but then again i am not sad enough to live my life on facebook .
jje
there's nothing wrong with killing background tasks that eats your battery, but to me it looks funny to turn off WIFI, 3G, Sync or polling.
anyway, that's what i think, other people may think different and will prefer to save on battery life.
Agent_Adodas said:
there's nothing wrong with killing background tasks that eats your battery
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
:facepalm:
http://lifehacker.com/5650894/andro...ed-what-they-do-and-why-you-shouldnt-use-them
Unless you love using terribly coded apps.
This is a Baseline - my initial starting position. Yeah I don't feel cool for running tons of unneeded stuff Actually after 15 hours of uptime I feel pretty bad and a slave of the charger.
I hope to tell more people in a single post what can be optimized, stripping off any superstition, voodoo and some pointless beliefs circulating in the web
I don't say "do like me", but instead what a great hardware SGS2 + core Android software actually seems to be
Please also note I didn't limit myself to 1000MHz, do not recommend reducing voltages etc... the struggle is to put the software in control, not to cripple the experience.
Additionally, I have WiFi at work, at home, at the gym, and between them I'm driving... for that reason I don't need unlimited data. And for new mails I actually get SMS and know when to fetch the mail. If it's important I can turn on the data as well. On business trips abroad there is no unlimited data anyway too - only WiFi at the office and at the hotel. So there are different scenarios...
Serious Observations Bro!
Must say, very clear,simple and awesome way to put together things...will try this out and post again!
Thanks a ton bro! Love the efforts and for helping us out!
Great tips mate... I knew many of them before but i will not use them so much.. I have a feeling that it criples my phone... Limiting my usage of the phone... Instead i have a custom rom,custom kernel ,an extra standard battery,car charger...
I even tryed once to apply most of your tips but they gave me a couple of hours extra batt life. My problem is network signal coverage-edge is fine(but who can surf on egde ?!? ) ,3g and hspda signal is not so good (i travel a lot by car all over my country) and the phone keeps trying to get better network signal and uses more battery...
So most of your tips work if u want to criple your phone and if ur network has great coverage...
Sent from my GT-I9100 using XDA
Using a slow scaling cpu governor defeats the purpose of battery savings. You want something that will scale up fast and scale down just as fast. That way the task gets completed quicker and the cpu can go back to an idle state faster.
Slower governors take longer to complete a task and that uses more battery.
I rather OnDemand complete something in 2 seconds jumping immediately to 1.2Ghz than Conservative in 4 seconds scaling it's way up each step and then scaling back down slowly.
Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk
Elisha said:
Using a slow scaling cpu governor defeats the purpose of battery savings. You want something that will scale up fast and scale down just as fast. That way the task gets completed quicker and the cpu can go back to an idle state faster.
Slower governors take longer to complete a task and that uses more battery.
I rather OnDemand complete something in 2 seconds jumping immediately to 1.2Ghz than Conservative in 4 seconds scaling it's way up each step and then scaling back down slowly.
Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not true if I'm typing notes. Ondemand will struggle to take me on high frequency, while I'm browsing the texts... Do you need high frequency when reading forums?
Actually I have no problem to play Asphalt 6 and Angry Birds on 1200MHz with this setup
It takes you more cpu cycles to get Asphalt or Angry Birds fully loaded with Conservative than it would with OnDemand.
And you have to remember we have dual-core cpus. It's to your benefit to get both cores scaled up faster to finish the task.
You don't notice this as much because the difference is probably in the milliseconds. But Conservative is more of a power hog than OnDemand.
Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk
Wow, thats massive and informative! Too good job Sir! Hats Off!
Elisha said:
It takes you more cpu cycles to get Asphalt or Angry Birds fully loaded with Conservative than it would with OnDemand.
And you have to remember we have dual-core cpus. It's to your benefit to get both cores scaled up faster to finish the task.
You don't notice this as much because the difference is probably in the milliseconds. But Conservative is more of a power hog than OnDemand.
Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Agree. All that advice is mostly targeted to battery conscious people, this is not a gaming setup There is no one best configuration for all.
It's also not about what exact values to choose, but what approach to take for battery life improvement.
Can't wait to run a UV kernel once the sources drop. That there helps quite a bit to conserve battery.
Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk
I know pretty much all of this already but it's a useful guide for noobs for sure.
I don't bother anymore with SetCPU or any of that anymore and to be honest it's had little or no impact on battery life which is still excellent.
gingingingin said:
0: IDLE - CPU not clocked
1: AFTR - something not totally clear to me, but an alternative way to IDLE the CPU - ARM Off Top Running with L2 cache keeping its state
2: IDLE+LPA - IDLE + DEEP IDLE - also some parts of hardware are powered down
3: AFTR+LPA - AFTR + DEEP IDLE
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
These are not deep sleep states. Deep sleep is also known as "suspend" - where almost the entire system is shut down.
These are CPU idle states, which allow the core to save power even when the system is "running". They take significantly less time and energy to enter, but save less power. Also, there are only three of them - IDLE, LPA, AFTR. See arch/arm/mach-s5pv310/cpuidle.c in the kernel source for more details.
As an example, with kernels that have the cpuidle backport from the Tab 7 Plus:
IDLE is entered if the CPU is expected to be free for 4 msec (40 msec stock)
AFTR is entered if the CPU is expected to be free for 10 msec (disabled stock)
LPA is entered if the CPU is expected to be free for 40 msec (40 msec stock)
There are some rules that can cause lower states to be entered even if the cpuidle governor chooses LPA or AFTR. (cpuidle governor has nothing to do with cpufreq governor).
Your descriptions of the states are pretty close to what I understand them to be:
IDLE - clock is gated but power remains (does not eliminate any static power consumption)
AFTR - clock is gated, CPU core power removed, cache power remains - this eliminates a great deal of static power consumption - cannot be entered if second core is active
LPA - AFTR + removal of cache power - cannot be entered if second core is active
The above are why 100 MHz is pointless on our device, and in my experience, actually can increase power usage. The achievable voltage difference between 100 MHz and 200 MHz is insignificant for most peope, and if the voltages for two frequencies are the same, it's better to run at the higher frequency and drop into AFTR/LPA to shut off core power more often. The PDF linked from Ezekeel's post at http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=21785924#post21785924 is a useful read on this topic, especially section 6. While it's fairly old, most of the concepts remain valid. For this reason, 500 MHz also doesn't consume much more power than 200 for a given fixed amount of load due to having the same voltage stock as 200 (however, it does increase some internal clocks I believe, leading to slightly increased power) - so when the screen is on I have it set to 500 MHz minimum.
This compares to suspend, aka deep sleep, which takes around 150 msec to enter and 650 msec to resume, and the CPU must be at 800 MHz (or at least have enough voltage to support 800 MHz operation) during this time. Entering suspend/resume is very costly in terms of power due to heavy interrupt load, which is involved in 90% of complaints about high "Android OS" battery usage on Gingerbread. However I believe from some of the testing I've run that improved cpuidle greatly reduces this penalty.
With the improved cpuidle patch, even when I use the Wake Lock app to hold a permanent wakelock for testing purposes, my standby drain is only 1.5%/hour or so. When not holding a wakelock, 0.5%/hour on wifi is easily achievable. It gets much worse at my desk at work, where the signal is weak and the cell radio eats huge amounts of power - there it's around 1%/hour.
Edit: As to task killers - all of the people saying "task killers are worthless" talk about memory management only. The fact is, unfortunately, that there are some crappy apps out there that use too much CPU or hold insanely long wakelocks that you just have to use occasionally. Facebook is still the #1 example here - Facebook is a major battery hog, therefore when you're done with it, you must kill it with fire. However, NEVER use an autokiller and never use it for memory management!
Regarding battery charging, I wonder have you read this article before : batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteries (please add http)
The fact seems to be completely opposite from your theory in 2.6.4.
Sent from my GT-I9100 using xda premium
Not sure, the battery article is a bit doubtful. For me at least the testing sequence is strange:
1. Charging current of 1C is a bit high, to say the least. Quick chargers have never been optimal for any type of batteries.
2. Discharge current of 1C is huge and far from being realistic for a mobile phone.
Also if we interpret the results it becomes that at 10% DoD we get 4700 small cycles, which is close to 100% DoD with 500 big cycles... Actually the results are in favor of the 100% DoD.
Of course my interpretation can be wrong, but so far I have got the opposite idea of that.
For practical purposes I can give an example of a Nokia Li-Ion battery thoroughly fully discharged and for 2 years it retained at least 80% capacity. I'd estimate the number of cycles to be 120-150.
On my current laptop the ThinkPad Panasonic battery was always almost completely discharged via settings, attaching screenshots. At 328 cycles and 3.5 years since first use it retains 88% of the design capacity. This is quite a good achievement for a tortured battery I'd say
Note: See the advice/sentence written in the top box by my good old IBM manufacturer (now Lenovo). "... battery deterioration may occur faster if the battery is constantly charged at 100%. Lowering the charge thresholds ... will help increase its lifespan". These guys know their job... I think their sentence almost surely relates to storage though. Storage at 50% is much better than storage at 100% charge. There is room for interpretation again.
Note: This is my second battery on this laptop, the first one Sanyo was a bit worse with the same treatment (maybe older technology) and after 2 years its electronics suddenly failed, while at around 150 cycles.
Entropy512 said:
The above are why 100 MHz is pointless on our device, and in my experience, actually can increase power usage. The achievable voltage difference between 100 MHz and 200 MHz is insignificant for most peope, and if the voltages for two frequencies are the same, it's better to run at the higher frequency and drop into AFTR/LPA to shut off core power more often.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
First of all, thanks for the detailed explanation of the states.
I remember from the school/uni that the power used is proportional to the frequency. If we have static consumption in the chip it will not be affected by changing the frequency, but the dynamic part of the consumption is essentially doubled when running on 200MHz compared to 100MHz. I don't know the ratio dynamic_consumption:static_consumption for my chip, but it may be around 1:1.
The formulas were something like that: http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=119229

cell standby poll

I would like to collect cell standby data from you. Cell standby is much too high, i have 1% per hour even under optimal conditions. Some users have much more and are satisfied when they reach 1% but i think this is too much. SGS1 and SGS2 are below 0,5%.
Can you post
time on battery,
remaing capacity in %,
cell standby in %
and calculate the consumption per hour:
(100 - "remaining capacity in %") * "cell standby in %" / 100 / "time on battery"
Sample:
time on battery = 5,5h
remaing capacity in % = 84
cell standby in % = 40
(100 - 84) * 40 / 100 / 5,5 = 1,16% per hour
//EDIT//
I build a google sheet where we can enter these information and which then calculates the average stanby drain:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Ambt0PkdLr7BdEJ1alptQ2M1bFlLbm11aVdtNmtIY0E
Maybe that helps to identify those configurations without drain.
Hi,
I think this is a good idea, but it would be good to post your current ROM, Radio and Kernel plus the country and provider.
All these points could influence the cell standby. I am on 3G an have medium to good reception.
ROM Omega 5.2
Radio XLF2
Kernel Siyah 1.2.6
Country Germany
Provider O2
Standbydrain
time on battery = 4h
remaing capacity in % = 75
cell standby in % = 41
(100 - 75) * 41 / 100 / 4 = 2,56% per hour
Time on battery 6:30
stanby cell= 58%
remainig capacity=67%
ROM Foxhound 0.3
Radio XLF2
Kernel Siyah 1.2.6
Country Luxembourg
Provider Tango
(100 - 67) * 58 / 100 / 6.30 = 3,03% per hour
valerio.tosti said:
Time on battery 6:30
stanby cell= 58%
remainig capacity=67%
ROM Foxhound 0.3
Radio XLF2
Kernel Siyah 1.2.6
Country Luxembourg
Provider Tango
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I added those values to the spreadsheet.
ok you can add
signal strenght 2-3Bars
Network type 3G/Hspda
wifi On, also when display off
---------- Post added at 04:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:37 PM ----------
how is this possible that sellman makes 35 hours?
The next few days I will switch my Radio, to see if there is any considerable impact.
whaaat 42h???? Guys commeon you are killing me!!!!
valerio.tosti said:
whaaat 42h???? Guys commeon you are killing me!!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I thought the same
How unfair life can be
Cell standby seems to be
1) A modem firmware failure for those who actually have bad cell standby battery life. This seems to be caused by not entering low power mode on non active connections or switching to fast/often between the power modes.
2) The batteryprofiles.xml populates the cell idle entry with 33mA as power drain as opposed to 3mA for the S2 which has the older version of same type of hardware modem. This is absolutely retarded as the actual drain is not really that much and being reported much higher than it is.
I personally am running on 2G which is more than enough for chat, email and notifications and switch to 3G whenever I need to manually or am on Wifi. I am still on my first charge since I have gotten the phone, and I'm at around 40 hours lifetime with 4H screen time with 33% battery left. This is with around 20 reboots while flashing and testing my kernel, and playing with the phone. Over-night (8+ hours) I lose about 3%.
no cell standby issue in CM9 by the way guys
AndreiLux said:
Cell standby seems to be
1) A modem firmware failure for those who actually have bad cell standby battery life. This seems to be caused by not entering low power mode on non active connections or switching to fast/often between the power modes.
2) The batteryprofiles.xml populates the cell idle entry with 33mA as power drain as opposed to 3mA for the S2 which has the older version of same type of hardware modem. This is absolutely retarded as the actual drain is not really that much and being reported much higher than it is.
I personally am running on 2G which is more than enough for chat, email and notifications and switch to 3G whenever I need to manually or am on Wifi. I am still on my first charge since I have gotten the phone, and I'm at around 40 hours lifetime with 4H screen time with 33% battery left. This is with around 20 reboots while flashing and testing my kernel, and playing with the phone. Over-night (8+ hours) I lose about 3%.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So what you are saying is that it is just a miscalculation? Then the voltage would still show up correct.
Any idea where to find the battery voltage?
Sent from my GT-I9300 using XDA
mc-paulo said:
So what you are saying is that it is just a miscalculation? Then the voltage would still show up correct.
Any idea where to find the battery voltage?
Sent from my GT-I9300 using XDA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes that's what I'm saying. The whole battery statistics page in terms of percentages is absolutely useless. Not only are the modem values completely ****ed but the CPU accounting is dead wrong, the values are the same for 1400-900MHz as the Galaxy S2 values for 1200-200, with all the steps below 900MHz being reported as the S2's 200MHz current consumption (55mA). You can absolutely not rely on any of that data for now as it is absolute hogwash.
What does the voltage have anything to do with it? You can't do anything with the voltage value alone, other than maybe estimate battery charge level. Use Battery Monitor Widget if you still want to see statistics.
The Voltage would show if the battery really discharges that fast or if it just is a miscalculation, as you are stating.
My phone is dead after 20hours, no matter how I am using it. The only thing that helps is Airplane mode, but that way a phone is kind off useless.
No wifi, no app and not even the screen are killing my battery. There has to be a culprit and I am guessing, as maby others are, that it's a bug in the radio.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using XDA
mc-paulo said:
The Voltage would show if the battery really discharges that fast or if it just is a miscalculation, as you are stating.
My phone is dead after 20hours, no matter how I am using it. The only thing that helps is Airplane mode, but that way a phone is kind off useless.
No wifi, no app and not even the screen are killing my battery. There has to be a culprit and I am guessing, as maby others are, that it's a bug in the radio.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using XDA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Battery discharge of course it correct, I'm just claiming that the battery statistics and break-down is absolute nonsense. I suspect that it is fast-dormancy, try idling it on 2G/EDGE and see if it's the same.
Ah, now I am getting you.
If it was Fast Dormancy that would explain why two identical setups in two different countries, with different providers are having such different runtimes.
In 2g mode fd is disabled, if I read you right? As I am wifi areas most of the time, 3g is not that important to me. Worth the try.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using XDA
mc-paulo said:
Ah, now I am getting you.
If it was Fast Dormancy that would explain why two identical setups in two different countries, with different providers are having such different runtimes.
In 2g mode fd is disabled, if I read you right? As I am wifi areas most of the time, 3g is not that important to me. Worth the try.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using XDA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
FD doesn't exist for 2G. So yea, basically disabled.
Added my actual data and i'm surprised. No one has an acceptable power consumption for cell standy. I hope Samsung fixes the problem.
The last hours I was running on 2g only and it didn't do any good.
Experienced nearly the same amount of battery drain than before.
I will switch to another Radio, and will keep an eye on that drain.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using XDA
At night i have only 2G because in my home where the phone "sleeps" no 3G signal is available. The signal is much more worse, only 1-2 bars, but the battery consumption is even better than with 3G. In 8 hours of Standby only 2-3% battery like it was before with my SGS1. Seems to be only a 3G problem. I checked logcat, but i don't have the fast dormancy problem. I think with 1% per hour with 3G i have a very good performance but in comparison to SGS1 its worse.
Your phone has to run a whole setup, authentication and connection procedure with the antenna each time data network is cut. However when the data network is open (especially on HSPA frequencies) it drains the battery.
So FD is a 3G feature (HSPA-Versions being different extension levels) which basically tells the antenna that your phone will now disconnect the data connection but the antenna should remember him and the state of all TCP connections.
Periodically your phone will power up the data network through a very short and speedy handshake procedure which resumes the old data connection and ask the network whether any new packets have arrived. If so, it will accept and process them and keep the data connection open for new incoming/outgoing packets until it goes back to Fast Dormancy (IDLE) mode.
The network/antenna of course has to store any incoming data packets until the phone polls it so there is a measurable multi-second delay until the data is effectively received by your phone.
The exact polling frequency is defined by your phone's internal database of network operators and is e.g. for all luxembourgish network operators 5 seconds. Therere is no single 'good' value since:
- the network has to store the data. If your phone polls too slowly it might drop the data packets or even close the connection, forcing the phone to run through the full procedure again which causes huge battery drain. (This is also true if the network _SHOULD_ support FD but in reality does not)
- the incoming data packets are delayed by up to X seconds, X being the polling frequency. So you might e.g. only see incoming chat messages several seconds after them having been sent if the phone is in IDLE mode.
- too high polling frequencies put a high strain on the network (to the extend that they might refuse your mobile to reconnect for a certain timespan) and kills your battery fairly quickly.
Furthermore FD only works for incoming data packets, not outgoing ones.
If your phone sends a message, it will directly go to fully-awake 3G network until fast dormancy kicks in again after a certain idle period.
Now, basically FD is a very good solution to 3G's battery drain, however it only works if your phone does not send data and does not constanctly receive data. (Additionally of course, the FD network setup must be correctly configured with sane values... I've seen carrier-provided setups of 1 second Fast-Dormancy interval)
If you have apps which keep data connections open and constantly send/receive small amounts of data (e.g. Skype, ICQ, Msn, Facebook, ...) FD is more or less worthless for your setup and might only cause a huge battery drain.
Furthermore at least my provider (Tango, Luxembourg) sometimes shows bad cases of antenna hopping when waking up from FD which drains the battery even more.
(Antenna hopping is if the antenna tells your mobile phone to connect to an other antenna because it's overloaded or it knows that the other one has significantly more capacity available. However if not properly managed by a supervising instance, this may cause several antennas to play ping-pong with you and keep moving you to other antennas)
2G on the other hand doesn't know what FD is for a very simple reason; it uses the same frequencies for data network and voice. The latter has to be connected at all times anyway, so keeping the network connection open only causes insignificant battery drain. (As long as the device is actively sending/receiving data the battery usage will of course get higher)
So if you want your phone to be connected at all times (Chat, Push notifications, Emails, ...) you'd keep it in 2G. But due to 3G having a better KB/W ratio and being MUCH faster, you should switch when browsing the net.
There is a (paid) app for automated 3G/2G switching when the phone is idle which additionally can enable/disable Wifi when you're in range of a configured network based on it learning your exact location from signal changes of the coarse network-based location.
That app is called Juice Defender Beta (you need the 'Ultimate' donation key to unlock all the features) and so far works flawlessly on my phone.
(Additionally it can automatically dim the display below the minimum-brightness which is cool at night )
If the phone has a very high network drain in 2G too you most likely are either constantly receiving/sending data (e.g. Skype, I recommend using IM+ Pro and configuring it with Push notifications when in the background) or using an Exchange account which seems to have a battery-drain issue in Samsung stock firmwares.

[BATTERY LIFE] How to get up to 7+ hours of screen-on-time with the Xperia Z

Many battery-life-tips mentioned here DON'T need any modifications to your Z.
Please don't post discouraging things like...
-"Why all the fuzz? Buy a external battery"
-"Why BLunlock/undervolting/-clocking/rooting and voiding warranty?"
...we all know that.
There are many factors influencing screen-on-time. Please read the must-read-section before you judge my thread.
THIS THREAD IS ABOUT OPTIMIZING BATTERY LIFE OF THE SONY XPERIA Z WITHOUT SACRIFICING TOO MANY FEATURES OR MUCH OF USER EXPERIENCE/PERFORMANCE. THIS IS A UNFINISHED ONGOING PROCESS.
Don't forget: If you like what you read, please press the thanks-button.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
I. INTRODUCTION
I.1 Prologue / Must read
I.2 My average usage pattern
I.3 Change-Log
I.4 To-do
II. BATTERY SAVING TIPS
II.1 General-section (tips everyone can apply)
II.1.1 Tips I use
II.1.2 Tips I don't use (but you can)
II.2 Root-section (additional: tips for rooted devices)
II.2.1 Tips I use
II.2.2 Tips I don't use (but you can)
II.3 Bootloader-section (add.: tips for bootloader-unlocked devices)
II.3.1 Tips I use
II.3.2 Tips I don't use (but you can)
III. MISC
III.1 Thanks to
III.2 Translations
III.3 Results
I. INTRODUCTION
I.1 Prologue / Must read !
Hi everyone,
First I should introduce myself a little: I'm from germany, 24 years old and currently studying technology of information systems. Since xda helped me alot, I also want to share with you all I know about optimizing battery life.
A XZ with all-standard-settings (without my tips) currently only gets approx. 4,5-5 h with my average usage pattern. And max. 3,5 hours with heavier usage (while travelling e.g.). With heavy games even less.
After implementing my tips I often get 7h+ of REAL USAGE battery life (=screen-on-time = SOT =s-o-t) with my Xperia Z. Sometimes I even get more SOT: see e.g. my screenshots of 7:09 h SOT with remaining 6% and 20 hours since last charging. But I also sometimes only get 5 hours (with heavier usage, while travelling e.g.).
I'm not bragging, please do not misunderstand me. If we crippled all smartphone-features, turned everything off and only read books with the XZ, we could even get 9-10 hours SOT...but thats not what I want to achieve!
There are many factors influencing screen-on-time: Your individual usage, your individual apps, your apps' (obligatory) wakelocks, your cell/data/wifi receiption during the day, provider-support of fastdormancy, your XZ's undervolt capability, ...
Also everyone has his own taste:
Some like 1.5 GHz+4cores+100% brightness all day+5 homescreens+... And some don't.
I only write down ALL tips I know/find. I do not use every single one of them, because some would lower my comfort. But I write them down for you, because I respect everyones individual usage. So please don't blame me for everything or talk bad about my thread in other threads.
You can decide which tips you like to use, which you don't.
Greetings
Seb
I.2 My average usage pattern
- browsing a lot with dolphin browser (sonar etc. disabled with elixir; 'Google Chrome' consumes too much battery, causes many wakelocks and has no flash-support)
- reading hundrets of tech-news with gReader (almost all news include pictures and some videos; hardware acceleration on)
- listening to music with walkman (20 min/day)
- watching some youtube (at least 3-4 videos; each 2 to 15 min long)
- reading for about half an hour (with kindle app or adobe reader)
- usung tapatalk for xda a lot
- whatsapp a lot
- reading many mails with KAITEN MAIL (many include pdf) and let synchronize 2 of 4 email accounts every 3 h and the remaining 2 every 6 h
- sms: 1/day
- calls: 20min/day
- photos: 2/day
- using wunderlist
- checking ebay: 1x/day
- VNC to enter business-pc remotly 2x/day (5-10 min)
- a lot 9gag
- Widgets on 2 homescreens:
4x Kaiten Mail-Widgets (counters for unread emails)
1x Walkman-Widg.
I.3 Changes to this post
31.12.13
- corrected formatting
27.12.13
- Updated and added many new tips to bootloader section (e.g gpu-undervolting!)
- Updated and added many tips to root section
- Updated general section slightly
- Updated prologue slightly
- Updated usage pattern slightly
- NEWS1: Switched to XzKernel by alnikki25k because it currently offers more features, runs smoother and gets updated more frequently
- NEWS2: Lifted my max. cpu-freq from 1.24 to 1.35ghz, which won't effect battery life too much anylonger ( -15 min SOT)
Earlier changes: deleted because of limited space
I.4 To-do
- add measurement-section
- give some milliampere-values
- Shorten all sections/texts/tips
- Find the holy grail of battery life saving
II. BATTERY SAVING TIPS
II.1 General-section
II.1.1 TIPS I USE:
- Update to Android 4.2.2 (currently use stock-sony-firmware .67), but will switch to 4.3 as soon as we get a working custom kernel for it
- if contract has no LTE/4G, so set the network mode to wcdma/gsm (the LTE/4G-chip sucks a lot of battery (better disable it, if you don't need more than the 21 Mbit/s 3G/hsdpa+ provides)
- If you can choose: use Wifi over 3G over LTE (in general). But if 3G connection is fast and wifi very slow, use 3G! Avoid LTE/4G if you do not need more than 21 Mbit/s.
Use "ONLY 2G" only if 3G receiption is extremly poor and as slow as 2G, but 2G receiption is great.
- stamina on (only whatsapp whitelisted). Reset stamina mode if it doesn't work properly (clear cache). Stamina is (mostly) better than turning phone off several times per day, because boot consumes too much battery (especially if many apps load at boot).
- battery settings > battery save mode: on (from 100%; excluding wifi+auto sync)
- wifi set to not search for networks/no notification,
- wifi set to stay always on (turning off during standby will help battery, but every custom kernel has an issue with the wifi drivers, so set wifi to "always on" which circumvents this issue),
- Brightness set automatically to 25% during the day and 0% in the evening with my TASKER-profile (below). more info in root-section.
- NFC off (only on when needed)
- Bluetooth off (only on when needed)
- GPS off (only on when needed)
- charging at 6-10% remaining battery (below could harm your battery and decrease battery life over time...but this is a highly controvertial topic, so I charge at 10% to be on the safe(r) side)
- Reduce wakelocks:
- Install 'Wakelock Detector' to find partial wakelocks and alarms which wake the XZ during standby. Many unnecessary wakelocks can easily be reduced (like fastdormancy). But some may need root access. Here is a very helpful link for wakelocks: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=38629490#post38629490
- In settings > apps > all apps > select an app: Deactivate the notifications of all apps you don't want to be notified by. Can reduce wakelocks!
- Turn OFF 'developer settings' when not using it (stops their services, wakelocks)
This section will grow in time!
- Google Now off: long-press on home-button > google search > settings > turn google now off
- Let your Wifi-Router always work with 100% signal-power, wifi g+n. This way you will get better wifi-receiption with your Z (might squeeze some minutes/your phone won't connect to data unnecessarily)
- Don't overprotect your phone with metal cases over metal cases Receiption of Cell, 2G/3G/LTE, Wifi, Bluetooth etc. will decrease and your battery life too (a lot)
- Turn Restore & Backup off: settings > restore & backup
- Google Settings App > Location > Turn OFF: Location history + location protocol /summary(? don't know the english name of that button)
- Google Settings App > Search > Turn OFF: Webprotocol + search-results shall not include apps/... (deactivate anything you don't need)
- Deinstall or deactivate FACEBOOK, if you don't use it. If you really need it, change the notification settings + update settings + push-settings according to your REAL needs. This app is a hugh battery consumer and it causes far too many wakelocks which will prevent the phone from entering sleep modes (even when the phone is not being used).
- Settings > Sound(?) > Turn OFF: vibration when touching screen + sound for every screen press + sound for unlocking + xloud + sound for call-buttons
- Settings > Accounts > Google > Turn OFF: google-personalized-advertising + every synchronization you don't need (I don't sync apps and google books because I use Titanium Backup)
- Often forgotten but basic tip: Search for unnecessary settings or battery saving features in the settings of your favourite apps. E.g. many apps allow to deactivate unnecessary settings or ugly special effects/animations which drain battery. OR many apps let you deactivate (maybe in your case: ) unnecessary push notifications...
- Settings > Display > Sleep > After 1 Minute (mostly sufficient)
- Update your apps regularly, because new versions often improve performance, battery drain, wakelock-issues etc. Still: make backups!
[/HIDE]
II.1.2 TIPS I DON'T USE (but you can):
- Display brightness always at 0%
- Wifi set to "save battery when connected" (may cause problems with some custom kernels, so I currently don't use it!)
- Data/cell/wifi/bluetooth always off (e.g. if you only play games/read books)
- Calibrate your battery (this can bring back 5-10% of your battery life, depending on its condition). This tip was discussed a lot. I didn't calibrate my Zs battery yet. Everyone says something different and the manufacturers like sony give instructions for (first) battery cycles... So I leave it up to you to decide if its a myth or not
- Set all animations in dev-settings to 0 x (settings > about phone > press 10 times on the built-number > go back and now you got the dev-settings below)
- Sleep screen after 15 sec
- Turn background sync and auto-sync and google account sync OFF
-Reduce every wakelock possible by spending hours for finding their causes, deinstalling/deactivating all thats necessary to reduce it...etc...
II.2 Root-section
II.2.1 TIPS I USE
- Installed TITANIUM BACKUP PRO and deleted all bloatware/google apps/..
All I didn't need or like or which drained too much battery.
Here is a list of all deleted apps:
com.android.providers.partnerbookmarks.res.overlay
com.sonyericsson.android.socialphonebook.res.overlay
com.sonyericsson.trackid.res.overlay
com.sonymobile.connectivitycenter
Sapphire 10.0.A.0.16 (com.sonyericsson.bluetheme)
Silk 10.0.A.0.16 (com.sonyericsson.blacktheme)
VerifyCertificatesDummyApp
Xperia Twitter Setup
com.sonymobile.datadisclaimer
Anonymous Usage Stats
com.sonymobile.cameraautoupload
Backup-Restore
com.sonyericsson.lockscreen.uxpnxt
Black Hole
Bubbles 1.0
com.android.backupconfirm
com.android.providers.partnerbookmarks
com.android.sharedstoragebackup
com.google.android.voicesearch
com.sonyericsson.unplugchargerreminder
Converter 6.1.1 (com.sonyericsson.androidapp.converter)
Device Usage 1.0.A.0.11 (com.sonymobile.phoneusage)
E-Mail 4.0.1 (com.android.email)
com.sonyericsson.retaildemo
Emerald
com.sonyericsson.music.wikipediaplugin
com.sonyericsson.music.youtubeplugin
com.sonyericsson.music.youtubekaraokeplugin
com.sonyericsson.music.googlelyricsplugin
Exchange Services
Face Unlock 4.1.2-509230 (com.android.facelock)
foursquare 2012.03.09 (com.joelapenna.foursquared)
Infinite view 10.1.A.0.0 (com.sonyericsson.infiniteview)
com.sonyericsson.androidapp.memorycardinstaller
Market Feedback Agent
Mono 6.1.A.0.1 (com.sonyericsson.android.pobox.skn.mono)
com.sonyericsson.metadatacleanup
OMA Client Provisioning
Oma Download Client
OmaV1AgentDownloadServices
Picasa Uploader
Pico TTS
POBox Touch
Quartz
Remote Control Service
com.sonyericsson.vendor.backuprestore
SkinSelector
Smart Connect
com.android.voicedialer
Tags
TalkBack
TrackID
Update Center
com.sonyericsson.verifycertificatesdummyapp.application
com.sonyericsson.verifycertificatesdummyapp.platform
com.sonyericsson.verifycertificatesdummyapp.shared
com.sonyericsson.advancedwidget.weather
Wfd Service
Woody
Xperia AppShare
Xperia Calendar Sync
Xperia FB Setup
Xperia Friends’ Music
Xperia Link
Xperia Music Likes
com.sonyericsson.facebook.proxylogin
com.sonymobile.twitter.account
Xperia Share
Xperia Social Engine
com.sonyericsson.socialengine.plugins.facebook
com.sonyericsson.socialengine.plugins.picasa
com.sonymobile.socialengine.plugins.playmemories
com.sonymobile.socialengine.plugins.facebook_sharefrwk
com.sonymobile.socialengine.plugins.twitter_sharefrwk
com.sonyericsson.androidapp.everchwallpaper
Google Chrome
+ all branding-/carrier-specific apps
- Installed ELIXIR2 and deactivated all kinds of entries I don't need. Examples of activities/receivers/services you can disable:
BE CAREFUL:
If you deactivate vital activities/services/receivers of an app the apps won't work properly anylonger or the app will crash. But thats no problem! Just check the apps and and activate activities/services/receivers e.g. one-by-one to find the cause of the crash and leave it activated.
Deactivate e.g. every ACTIVITY that says (differs from app to app):
-facebook.login
-.analytics.
-.tracking.
- google.ads.AdActivity
- .googleplus.
- .gtalk.
-.ads.
-.voicesearch.
And all kinds of RECEIVERS that will boot apps at boot (if not necessary):
-.onboothandler.
-.bootreceiver.
-.devicestartup.
And SERVICES:
-again: .analytics.
-.gtalk.
-googleplus.
- Install GREENIFY+donation-version (needs Xposed Framework!). Then activate all experimental options like boost mode, gcm push, greenify system apps...
and after that greenify some system apps like google maps etc. (according to your needs)
- Installed Xposed Framework and following modules:
1. "Greenify" (donation-version necessary) and activate all options
2. "BootManager". Deactivate all apps you don't want to load when starting up
3. "ReceiverStop" (if you didn't like Elixir2): Deactivate all unnecessary receivers
4. "App Settings": reduce permissions if necessary
5. "Per App Hacking": prevent services and wakelocks, but becareful...
It can cause apps to not work anymore!
6. "YouTube AdAway": especially helpful fot those watching alot. Why drain battery for ads?!
- Installed TASKER and SECURE SETTINGS (and its helper; see settings).
I currently automated following things (you can also download my tasker-backup below):
Tasker is consuming little power in the background, but is a powerfull tool.
My Tasker-Profile isn't very sophisticated. Working on it, but don't want to use other peoples profiles. You can deactivate/change any feature easily in tasker, if you don't want to use it:
- 18:00 until 08:00 o'clock (6PM till 8AM): Brightness set to 1% (in the evenings 1% is enough mostly and reduces consumption by a high margin) + Turn Rotation off
- Rotation only ON with certain apps and automatically turn off
- Hibernate with Greenify every 3 hours (sometimes the built in autohibernation of greenify won't work, so tasker triggers
- GPS ON when GOOGLE MAPS, NAVIGATION start and turn OFF automatically when closed
- Turn OFF Data when connected to Wifi since 5 Minutes
- Install BuiltProp Editor and add these lines to the end of the built.prop:
(Thanks to …… for this tip):
#signal tweak
ro.ril.enable.3g.prefix=0
ro.ril.enable.dtm=0
ro.ril.hep=0
ro.ril.hsxpa=5
ro.ril.enable.a53=1
ro.ril.gprsclass=12
ro.ril.hsupa.category=9
ro.ril.hsdpa.category=36
____
This will increase receiption by lifting 2G/3G-settings. It increases battery consumption, but over the day the better receiption makes up for that (at least for me).
II.2.2 TIPS I DON'T USE
- ELIXIR2 is hardcore...you could even deactivate EVERY button/activity/service (those which you asume you won't ever need) of all your apps...could save some processing time and therefore battery life
-Installing ES EXPLORER and deleting in the apps-folder:
fast dormancy.apk and .odex ( both ONLY if your provider doesn't support fastdormancy)
-Reducing Wifi-consumption by editing the ini-files in etc/firmware/wlan/prima/
-Reducing 2G/3G/LTE-consumption by editing their ini-files
-With Overlays (App) we can make buttons/switches hovering over apps. In some cases it could save battery (especially in combination with tasker and zoom).
-I tested wether the LTE-Switch for the upper menu will switch back the network mode to "GSM" (=2G) if I activate and then deactivate LTE... Worked! The LTE-switch turns on 2G+3G+LTE but my contract doesnt have LTE so maybe the LTE-chip won't consume anything after a first connection attempt... Then the LTE-switch would effectivly be a 2G/3G-switch for me Update: Switching back and forth is uncomfortable and automation isn't possible without deep rom-modifications... a dead end currently
II.3 Bootloader-section
II.3.1 TIPS I USE:
- Flash @alnikki25k 's custom stock kernel XzKernel
- In TRICKSTER MOD + FAUXCLOCK (!!) do following:
0. Set CPUs to 384 mhz - 1,35 ghz
1. Governor to intellidemand (settings: see below)
2. Set scheduler to 'sio'
3. Underclock the GPU to 325mhz and set gpu-scheduler to "ondemand"
4. Multicore power saving = 0
5. Dynamic FSYNC = on
6. Ecomode = on
7. Mp-decision = off
8. Intelli-plug = on
9. ZRam = off
9.1 Delete VFS cache after boot: on
9.2 Auto FS Writeback: on
9.3 swappiness: 0%
9.4 vfs cachepressure: 150%
9.5 dirty ratio: 20%
9.6 dirty background ratio: 5%
9.7 TCP congestion control: westwood
10. Read_ahead (emmc + sdcard): 2048 mb
10.1 Entropy (emmc + sdcard): off
11. Frequency Lock = on
12. In faux clock: activate c0, c1, c2 and c3 states
13. IMPORTANT TIP FOR SMOOTHNESS: Deactivate gpu's vsync (activate it if you are a egoshooter-gamer)
14. In faux clock: Set a profile for every app which does (or does not) need much performance. Here is an examples:
'Whatsapp' doesn't need high cpu-freq and 400 mhz gpu-freq to run smoothly. We can set a profile for it with these settings:
Min freq: 384 mhz
Max freq: 1188 mhz
gpu freq: 200 mhz
ecomode: on
FOR GAMES you could e.g. slightly overclock frequencies, turn ecomode off and use 450 mhz gpu-freq
14. CPU: Undervolt to these VOLTAGES (ONLY IF YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING !!) :
Please ONLY undervolt when you already know all about it...and undervolt slowly (in -25 or -50 mV steps e.g.)
until you reach a stable new voltage for each frequency. Always test several times with benchmarks and all your apps and for 1h at least
MY (VERY LOW) VOLTAGES MIGHT NOT WORK FOR YOUR XZ !
MAKE BACKUPS BEFORE YOU TRY ! IF YOU DON'T HAVE ACCESS TO A PC: KEEP A ROM AND A KERNEL ON YOUR SD-CARD. ALSO MAKE BACKUPS WITH CWM
I assume everyone trying this will know about
the dangers of playing with voltages.
*
[Mhz : sony's standard mV : mV working properly for my Z ]
192 : ---- : 712
384 : 850 : 712
432 : 875 : 712
486 : 875 : 725
540 : 900 : 725
594 : 900 : 725
648 : 925 : 750
702 : 925 : 750
756 : 975 : 750
810 : 975 : 800
864 : 1000 : 800
918 : 1000 : 825
972 : 1025 : 850
1026 : 1025 : 875
1080 : 1075 : 900
1134 : 1075 : 912,5
1188 : 1100 : 912,5
1242 : 1100 : 935
1296 : 1125 : 962,5
1350 : 1125 : 975
1404 : 1137 : 977,5
1458 : 1137 : 987,5
1512 : 1150 : 1025
-Governor-Settings (BE CAREFUL):
As the intellidemand governor got a big update (but almost no descriptions for the new features/settings), here you get my latest settings:
Governor = intellidemand
____
freq_step = 15
enable_boost_cpu = 1
input_event_min_freq = 384000,384000,384000,384000 // #
down_differential = 8 // #
ignore_nice_load = 0
io_is_busy = 1
optimal_freq= 1350000 // #
powersave_bias = 0
sampling_down_factor = 9 // #
sampling_early_factor = 9 // #
sampling_interim_factor = 9 // #
sampling_rate = 50000 // #
smart_each_off = 0
smart_high_slow_up_dur = 5
smart_high_slow_up_freq = 1350000
smart_slow_up_dur = 5
smart_slow_up_freq = 1350000
smart_slow_up_load = 90 // *
smart_up = 0
step_up_early_hispeed = 1242000 // #
step_up_interim_hispeed = 1242000 // #
sync_freq = 810000 // #
two_phase_freq= 384000,0,0,0
ui_sampling_rate = 50000
ui_timeout = 100
up_threshold = 86 // *
up_threshold_any_cpu_load = 90 // *
up_threshold_multi_core = 93 // *
_____
If its laggy for your taste:
1. make sure its no thermal issue or related to the rom itself;
2. Turn these ( // *) down. And these ( // # ) up. But search for their meanings first!
-GPU: undervolting (ONLY IF YOU KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING!):
Easiest way I know (until fauxclock/trickster support this feature):
Install "universal init.d", choose any available init.d-script (custom kernels often flash some along the way), add following in it and save:
echo "930000 1000000 1100000" > /sys/devices/system/cpu/cpu0/cpufreq/gpu_mv_table
The numbers (e.g. 930000) are in uVolt for See alnikki25k 's XzKernel-Thread for more info! I highly recommend reading that first!
Becareful: after flashing a new kernel(-version) this added code will likely vanish.
If you know how: just make your own init.d-script, wait for fauxclock/trickster
or just readd it manually again
II.3.2 TIPS I DON'T USE (but you can):
- Thanks @Destroyedbeauty: Instead of using apps like fauxclock/trickster mod you could also just write your own init.d-scripts which would cost nothing and lead to slightly less battery drain (+5 min). I don't use this tip YET, because these apps really don't consume that much. Still a very clever tip!
III. MISC
III.1 Thanks to
People I need to thank for various reasons (in no special order):
@DooMLoRD
@alnikki25k
@gm007
@[NUT]
@Dsteppa
III.2 Translations
I'm very thankful for everyone helping me translate this thread!
(Don't forget: translations can't be always up to date and won't be monitored by me)
-French-Forum (thanks to @monsieur_debile):
http://forum.frandroid.com/topic/16...-plus-de-7-heures-dautonomie-en-écran-allumé/
III.3 Results
-Antutu Benchmark 4: Instead of approximativly 20500 points (standard Z) I currently get approx. 15000. I currently give a damn about benchmarks Will try to improve in the future as promissed
RESULTS WITH REAL USAGE (For those who think I only leave the screen on):
- with my average usage pattern (see beginning of post) in "one sit" I got 7h S-O-T with 10% left battery charge and 9 hours since last charge: See screenshots.
- With my average usage pattern (see beginning of post) on a NORMAL day going to office etc. I got 7:09 h screen-on-time with 6% charge left and 20h since last charge: see screenshots.
- (almost) ONLY reading books, xda, news with gReader, surfing and with a bad phone receiption all day(!) I got 8h screen-on-time with 3% charge left and 12,5 h since last charge.
- Playing Deadtrigger for 0,5h I lost 14% battery life (graphics set to high), so with a full charge I approximativly could get 3,5 h (consider: Deadtrigger isn't optimized very well for non-nvidia-tegra3-hardware so it uses the Z inefficiently and I played with 'high' graphic settings)
If you like what you read: press the thanks-button and rate my thread with 5 stars
One question: Was this done indoors. Like in your room or office, just sitting playing with the device?
And that was a short "stint", I mean 7 hours of screen and 8 hours since the last charge. If you counted idle times, in like a 15 hour stint, screen time would be greatly reduced, plus, if you commute the phone is constantly looking for antennas, thus reducing screen time further.
7 hours is great. But this seems to be on "ideal conditions".
As for my methods of saving battery? 2G all the time. Undervolt. No Underclock. Greenify. Stamina Whatsapp only.
The important question is, what have you been doing ? Did you play games? YouTube? Or did you just let the screen active?
Gesendet von meinem C6603 mit Tapatalk 4 Beta
sea2605 said:
Since xda and its forum helped me alot in many ways, I also want to share something with you, that might solve many users biggest complaint: battery life.
I optimized my battery life so I regularly get 7 hours of battery life (sometimes even more, see screenshot with 10% remaining battery at 7:00h screen on time)... and all that with very normal usage (but no games) and without any sacrifices for me.
Tried many (...!!) methods to optimize but sticked only with those truly making a difference after testing.
________________________________
!!
I'm going to update this thread regularly until I wrote down all details and until I stop optimizing battery life
Lets work together: Tell me your battery life tricks!
Maybe in some weeks/months we can get to 8-9 h of battery life without too large sacrifices
!!
________________________________
HOW I did it (roughly summed up for the moment):
0. Updated to 4.2.2 (no 4.1.2 didn't give me more battery life).
1. Bootloader unlocked (essential, but will void warranty).
2. Rooted
3. Flashed doomkernel v9 via fastboot
4. Installed kernel tuner and underclocked the cpus to 1,24 ghz, changed governor to ondemand,
Undervolted like this (phone is still veeeery fast! No perfomance issues!):
Coming soon
5. Installed titanium backup pro and deleted all sony bloatware/google apps/other apps... All I didn't need or like or which drained too much battery. Here is a list of all deleted apps etc.:
Coming soon
6. Installed elixir2 and deactivated google-ad- and/or google-analytics-entries in all of my apps. Also all features I didn't need in my apps (e.g. I dont want to share everything in.every app with facebook so I deactivated those entries).
I deactivated all voicesearch-entries as I don't like it yet...(Even apples siri isn't great yet in my opinion...maybe in 2-3 years . I also deactivated google now-entries (not google-search!) since it drains a lot and I don't need it.
7.
X. Rather standard things:
- My contract has no LTE so I set the network mode to wcdma/gsm,
-stamina mode on (only whatsapp whitelisted),
- battery save mode on (from 100%; excluding wifi and auto sync),
- wifi-location-based on,
- wifi set to not search for networks,
- wifi set to stay on during standby only when connected (turning off during standby might help some of you, at least those who don't look at/need their phone and need it to be instantly connected),
- Wifi set to save battery
- To be continued
________________________________
I see more potential (but some with sacrifices):
1. With Tasker (thats an app) you could get a little (or quite much) extra battery life (depending on what you are willing to sacrifice...)
2. Future doomkernels could allow for more finetuning of the cpu and gpu (e.g. gpu-underclocking hat sticks; maybe we have some luck and we could undervolt the gpu )
3. elixir2 is hardcore...you could even deactivate EVERY button/activity/service (those which you asume you won't ever need) of all your apps...could save some processing time and therefore battery life
4. Governor wheatley and optimizing it's governor settings would give more juice but it slows all too much down in my opinion...but can lead to +0,5 h!
5. Even further killing some wakelocks with betterbattery
6. Reducing tx of the Wifi-antenna (but reducing tx only helps while downloading, I guess...)
or other antennas...
7. Installing es explorer and deleting fast dormancy app and odex ( both only if your provider doesn't support fast dormancy) in the apps-folder
8. Underclocking min. Frequency to 192 mhz (might help +5-10 minutes but slows phone down a little)
9. Maybe a little further undervolting (+5-10 min, but stability might be a problem...)
10. To be continued
THIS IS NOT READY YET...please wait patiently for more details etc!
Lets work together: Tell me your battery life tricks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I easily get 8+ hours of screen-on time....my tricks for that are as follows,,
1)Root(obvious )
2) download greenify (a must-have by oasis feng)and greenify almost all apps(including games) expect some messaging apps(apps shown with gcm logo in greenify) ,,,and if you want to get that lil extra minutes then go for the donation version of greenify, it lets you greenify some system apps to....also don't kill apps with appkillers(real battery hog)
3) Switching Stamina mode On(especially after the 4.2.2 update)...and carefully selecting only "most needed" apps to be excluded (if you don't want to break notifications)
4)download startup manager..and disable all unwanted apps at startup
5)remove all unwanted bloatware and battery saving apps(they usually do nothing to save your battery,instead they run in background and eatup your battery)
6) no under-clocking, no over-clocking
7) maintain a healthy battery charge history ( don't charge unless battery is less then 20%.,,then charge without interrupting to 100%(don't keep it charging for to long if it reaches 100%,,this will over-charge the battery)
8 ) If you're on 4.2.2 ,,surely you're facing the battery bug,which is really dangerous for the battery (because it bring the battery % down to zero ,without giving you a chance to reach your charger)....So to fix this you'll need to recalibrate your battery by downloading easy battery calibration from playstore (I've calibrated my battery and fixed the bug )...the app will guide you how to calibrate the battery(easy)
9 ) Don't use the "trickle charging" method recommended by some battery saver apps...I've used that method and it shows no improvement in battery life instead it'll drain the battery in a very strange manner ("modern"Li-on batteries should not be trickle charged Google it if you need more info on this subject)
Use this tricks and you'll definitely notice improved juice
More tweaks and tricks for a better battery going to be updated soon(as soon as I'll test and confirm them)...
If you feel that I've helped you in any way,,please hit the thanks button
Sent from my Xperia ZL (C6502) using Tapatalk 4 Beta
Point nr 6 is not true. Best for batery is when working between 50-85%. Battery will not overcharge because phone turn off charging, when battery reaches 100%. You can charge phone even when reaches 90% or 60%. Dont have to wait till 20% (sooner pluged - better for battery).
Sorry for bad english. Regards...
Media Server
Place a ".nomedia" file in directories of your sdcard(s) you don't want scanned so media server doesn't suck all the battery!
Grenify works but not sure about the effectiveness of startup manager. Apps disabled seem to load at startup regardless.
adielee said:
Place a ".nomedia" file in directories of your sdcard(s) you don't want scanned so media server doesn't suck all the battery!
Grenify works but not sure about the effectiveness of startup manager. Apps disabled seem to load at startup regardless.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Once you grant root access to startup manager it disables all the apps you've selected not to start at the startup...try it for yourself
If you feel that I've helped you in any way,,please hit the thanks button
Sent from my Xperia ZL (C6502) using Tapatalk 4 Beta
Rumman Shaikh said:
I easily get 8+ hours of screen-on time....my tricks for that are as follows,,
1)Root(obvious )
2) download greenify (a must-have by oasis feng)and greenify almost all apps(including games) expect some messaging apps(apps shown with gcm logo in greenify) also don't kill apps with appkillers..
3)download startup manager..and disable all unwanted apps at startup
4)remove all unwanted bloatware and battery saving apps(they usually do nothing to save your battery,instead they run in background and eatup your battery)
5) no under-clocking, no over-clocking
6) maintain a healthy battery charge history ( don't charge unless battery is less then 20%.,,then charge without interrupting to 100%(don't keep it charging for to long if it reaches 100%,,this will over-charge the battery)
Use this tricks and you'll definitely notice improved juice
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure you get 8 hours screen on time with only that and a normal usage (see my average usage)? If yes: I'm an idiot... why did I even bother with all the other crap
adielee said:
Place a ".nomedia" file in directories of your sdcard(s) you don't want scanned so media server doesn't suck all the battery!
Grenify works but not sure about the effectiveness of startup manager. Apps disabled seem to load at startup regardless.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
nomedia is a great idea ! Will try it ! :good:
ckyy said:
The important question is, what have you been doing ? Did you play games? YouTube? Or did you just let the screen active?
Gesendet von meinem C6603 mit Tapatalk 4 Beta
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Updated my first post! See "average usage pattern" on that single day.
DrKrFfXx said:
One question: Was this done indoors. Like in your room or office, just sitting playing with the device?
And that was a short "stint", I mean 7 hours of screen and 8 hours since the last charge. If you counted idle times, in like a 15 hour stint, screen time would be greatly reduced, plus, if you commute the phone is constantly looking for antennas, thus reducing screen time further.
7 hours is great. But this seems to be on "ideal conditions".
As for my methods of saving battery? 2G all the time. Undervolt. No Underclock. Greenify. Stamina Whatsapp only.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In some way you could say I tested in ideal conditions as I tested only in "one sit", right (weekend, got bored; but see my
usage pattern...great battery life considering that). But nevertheless:
Roughly we can say, all these methods aggregated will give everyone at least 40-60% more battery life (in relation to their
previous battery life). Thats no exaggeration...UnderVOLTing alone will lead to approx. 15-25% more battery life
...thank @DooMLoRD and his kernel for that!
So someone who only got 4h with his very own usage pattern will now get 6h.
Someone who only played games will get 3 h instead of 2 h...
Someone with a similar usage pattern to mine will get 7 h instead of 4,5 h (my starting point when I bought it)
etc. pp.
EDIT:
even on a normal workday (not "one sit") I get 7+h screen on time and 20 hours since last charge and 6% remaining battery. See my post of 2. August !
I didn't find an option to stop searching for Wifi networks, but I installed an app from google play to automatically turn off wifi when not connected, disbled NFC because I never used it, installed Juice Defender to disable 3G when I don't need it, used greenify on most of my apps, lowered brightness a bit and underclocked and I see some substantial improvement right away.
thanks for sharing your undervolt settings, might try later.
sea2605 said:
Sure you get 8 hours screen on time with only that and a normal usage (see my average usage)? If yes: I'm an idiot... why did I even bother with all the other crap
nomedia is a great idea ! Will try it ! :good:
Updated my first post! See "average usage pattern" on that single day.
In some way you could say I tested in ideal conditions as I tested only in "one sit", right (weekend, got bored; but see my
usage pattern...great battery life considering that). But nevertheless:
Roughly we can say, all these methods aggregated will give everyone at least 40-60% more battery life (in relation to their
previous battery life). Thats no exaggeration...UnderVOLTing alone will lead to approx. 15-25% more battery life
...thank @DooMLoRD and his kernel for that!
So someone who only got 4h with his very own usage pattern will now get 6h.
Someone who only played games will get 3 h instead of 2 h...
Someone with a similar usage pattern to mine will get 7 h instead of 4,5 h (my starting point when I bought it)
etc. pp.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes,,I'm really getting great screen times(one thing in my favour is that we don't have LTE here in India,& I use a 2g network(since I've a great lan ) so I've disabled wcdma network type & selected only gsm) I even play some graphic intensive games for "sometime" in my normal usage ...see the attached screenshot for details of my usage... Also I would like to add that the switching on the stamina mode is a must(mainly after the 4.2 update) But I'm still trying to squeeze even some extra juice...will update with some more extra tweaks,, after I try them out
If you feel that I've helped you in any way,,please hit the thanks button
Sent from my Xperia ZL (C6502) using Tapatalk 4 Beta
Ill rather use the charger then unlock the bootloader and spend numerous more hours just to get a couple of extra hours screen time as if its a competition lol.
Seriously I can get 6 hours+ screentime with stock 4.22 rom, no root, no bootloader unlocking.
Wifi on, auto sync on, brightness at lowest, stamina on. All I do is read a book from amazon kindle app, lol.
Well, of course no one has to chase maximum battery life... I'm chasing for it out of curiousity... Its only a challenge
But along the way I learn something new about android, smartphone-architecture, linux, ... Might someday be useful (I'm about to study technology of information systems)
Thats all forums/xda/communities exist for: Learning something new and sharing your knowledge
My undervolt goes from
192mhz @ 662mV to 1512mhz @ 975mV on Doom's Kernel.
On FXP Kernel I could go lower. 650mV to 950mV. Although even at those voltages, battery life on CM or AOSP is like 30% lower.
rotkiv3451 said:
I didn't find an option to stop searching for Wifi networks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Bump for op. How did you do that?
Turning of that it stops searching for wifi networks.
Now that I arrived home I can write my whole voltage list:
192 mhz @ 662 mV
384 mhz @ 675 mV
432 mhz @ 700 mV
486 mhz @ 700 mV
540 mhz @ 712 mV
594 mhz @ 712 mV
648 mhz @ 737 mV
702 mhz @ 737 mV
756 mhz @ 737 mV
810 mhz @ 787 mV
864 mhz @ 787 mV
918 mhz @ 837 mV
972 mhz @ 837 mV
1026 mhz @ 887 mV
1080 mhz @ 887 mV
1134 mhz @ 912 mV
1188 mhz @ 912 mV
1242 mhz @ 937 mV
1296 mhz @ 937 mV
1350 mhz @ 962 mV
1404 mhz @ 962 mV
1458 mhz @ 975 mV
1512 mhz @ 975 mV
Tested throughout 3-4 weeks. Rock solid stability.
There is a way to know beforehand if your chip can go as low voltages as this:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=39373866&postcount=124
First entry is deactivating the intervall-searching for wifis, as far as I can tell
sea2605 said:
First entry is deactivating the intervall-searching for wifis, as far as I can tell
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think so. As far as I can understand, that option just activates or deactivates the notification for open wifi networks, not the wifi scanning.
Sent from my C6602 using xda app-developers app
mikii100297 said:
Sent from my C6602 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not a big fan of not charging the phone every day. If I leave home with less than 100% chances are I don't feel confortable.

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