Hello ,
now before I start you should that you will need to disassemble the rear of your phone , If you think you cant then PLEASE dont try this .
THIS IS A FAST TUT , I WILL MAKE ANOTHER ONE LATER ON WITH PICTURES , hopefully when I make my second topic one of you guys will remake it with better english =)
# There is no other way to do this , no program no .cab , nothing without a disassembly .
# You will need 2 micro screwdrivers (one + & one - ) which can be found everywhere for less than a 1$
# a Guitar pick or any piece of plastic ,use it to separate the parts instead of using the screwdriver , we all know how the Xperia is easy to break =\
# a tooth brush & a hair dryer .
I had enough of the keyboard lags & honestly having a phone with a QWERTY keyboard that doesn't work is just useless. Today I decided to fix my phone till the X2 comes out in Dubai , heres what I did in simple steps
~1~
Disassemble the rear of your phone using this video :
Xperia X1 - Disassembly Rear
# its VERY easy & doesn't need a lot of brains , but again if you think you cant do this
PLEASE DON'T!
# the sides of the phone are very very thin & can be broken easily so be careful.
# No need for the gay gloves & all the other useless things its a phone not a nuclear bomb.
~2~
Take the keyboard chip & grab a glass of water , soak it in ( Yes soak it) but keep the left side out of the water ( the side where the yellow wire is attached to the keyboard )
leave it for a few second & go get a tooth brush.
~3~
Wet the tooth brush & start cleaning the rear of the chip , soak it again & then use the tooth brush again , make sure you clean the nets or whatever its called on the back of the chip
~4~
Take the hair dryer & start blowing the hot air on the rear on the chip to dry it off , If you look at the front of the chip you will notice that there is water under .
you will need to remove the FIRST layer which is the transparent one but not completely start with one end & leave the other end attached so you can stick it again as it use to be.
Remove the second layer which has the silver buttons on it , & blow air under it.
#Make sure everything is completely dry under every layer otherwise you will fry your phone or at least the keyboard chip.
~5~
Stick the layers back together carefully but firmly & make sure everything is at the right spot. test each & every button & blow hot air here & there just to make sure. put your phone back together Start the phone & TADA ! works like a charm
I hope I helped , my keyboard works perfectly now , no more retarded on screen keyboard !!!
Goodluck people
Marry X-mas & happy new year
i did as u said... it is not too hard... now it works better but still not perfect...
Sadly for me nothing change.
The keyb is yet clean.
Share
I have cleaned mine like 3 months ago and still working perfectly. I have not done the blow dry thingy. I cant remember the chemical i used but i think it has an alcohol content. i thoroughly clean the board and the white plaster with silver buttons. i think, the glue used is spreading over time. So it really has to be cleaned.
TIP:
To return that white part onto the board, use a pin. There is actually a small whole on both parts to ensure it will be placed back properly.
how did u guys open the top two 6 pointed screws? I took my smallest size 6 point and it wasnt small enough!
hatlo0or said:
# No need for the gay gloves & all the other useless things its a phone not a nuclear bomb.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You need that gloves to make your stupid brain not to be corrosive.
Sexual orientation is not joke.
Related
Disclaimer: This procedure voids the warranty and you can potentially damage your device.
This guide is for informative purposes only. Perform this procedure at your own risk.
This procedure was performed on an MDA2 (aka XDA2, Qtek2020, I-Mate2, etc).
Original Problem: The speaker stopped working.
Note: There seems to be a similar problem but it requires a totally different approach to fix it and it's out of the scope of this procedure. The problem on my device was somewhat different since when the speaker didn't work, the microphone was still functional. So the problem resides on the speaker connector, not the headphone jack.
Note2: English is not my first language, so please excuse any language errors you may encounter.
Let me start by saying that I have a big passion for gadgets and technology, so I was not going to let go on the opportunity to learn and inspect the guts of my brand new MDA2. You may ask yourself, why in the world don't you send it for repairs if it's a brand new device? Well, the answer is very simple, I bought this device over the Internet and I simply lost hope of being helped by the guys at the place I bought it from, they simply never answered or returned my calls and emails. I grew desperate and tired of using the headphones ALL THE TIME, even for alarms and reminders! and as I said before, I was driven by passion and thirst of knowledge and curiosity so I decided to fix it myself (even with the risk of damaging the device in the process). Let me add that I have some basic knowledge in electronics, and by no means this is my first device I fix. I have some experience. (I have fixed some damaged digitizers on a HP Jornada 568 PocketPC and Compaq iPAQ 3630 Pocket PC, fixed a volume slider on a SE T68i Phone and a SE P800 Smartphone to name a few).
Let me tell you that the MDA2 has been by far the easiest to fix. It's very well designed in terms of components and component placement, and the quality of the materials (plastics and electronics) is exceptional. But this is not a hardware review, so I'll start the walkthrough right now...
This is my victim... i mean... MDA2...
These are the tools required to complete the operation:
Torx #6 tool
Very small Phillips screwdriver (+)
Very small flat screwdriver (-)
Credit Card or similar card
A steady hand
Then I removed the SD Card and Stylus.
Proceed to remove the screws, there are two TORX#6 and four small Phillips (+). Be sure to put them on a safe place, they are very small screws and you don't want to loose them.
There are a couple of hidden Torx#6 screws under that black antenna cover, so we need to remove it. The plastic used in this part is not as dense as the rest of the casing (yes, the casing it's made of plastic!), so we need to be very careful not to break it, so apply very little force.
Start by using the flat screwdriver and insert it in the Stylus silo and use it as a lever (as shown), you will hear a "click" when the lock snaps. You will need flexible hands and dexterity since at this point you will also need to insert the flat screwdriver on the side square hole to release this side of the cover. (see next picture).
Here you can see the two squared-shaped holes where you need to insert the flat screwdriver to release the locks. Be very careful since there are some electronic components just below the square holes and do not apply excessive force to release the locks. Remember, the plastic is very thin on this part.
Now the other side, here you need to also use the flat screwdriver as a lever to release the lock on this side. Be very careful, since you will apply some force on the volume slider.
Now with the bottom part of the black cover released, you will notice there are some more locks to release on the top (just on the edge of the SD slot. DO NOT TRY TO REMOVE THE COVER YET!
One more time we need the flat screwdriver as a lever. Insert the flat screwdriver (as shown) but not too deep. Apply very small force in the direction of the arrow and the edge will snap off releasing the cover.
The black cover is now free.
These are the two hidden Torx#6 screws. Proceed to remove them to release the antenna.
The antenna has been removed.
So far so good, now the toughest part of the whole procedure, opening the MDA2 case. You need to be very patient, do not rush since the finish on the case is very easy to scratch and dent. Proceed with the small flat screwdriver and you need to start from the bottom of the MDA2, In my case as soon as I removed all the screws I noticed a small gap on the bottom so I started from that point, but if you don't see the gap, you can start from the headphone jack hole. Please be gentle and don't try to rush.
At this point you can use a credit card to help release the locks that are located all around the case, this way you won't scratch or dent the case. Start counter-clockwise, that is to the left of the headphone jack towards the Stylus silo. Once you manage to release all the locks on that side of the case, just lift it very slowly and the opposite side will snap off very easily. However, be very careful on that side (where the buttons and volume slider is) since in that particular place the plastic is more fragile because of the holes needed for those controls.
Once the MDA2 has been opened in half you can see the three small black Phillips screws (+) (see picture). Proceed to remove them. Please avoid any contact with the electronic components, since at this point any static charge can damage your precious gadget. And also make sure you don't drop the screws or touch the components with the screwdriver, since the MDA2 it's still very alive. See that coin-shaped thing on the opposite side of the screws? That's a LiPo Battery, and it's keeping your data from being erased. By the way, don't try to beat the 20 minute retention time of the battery, you have made a backup right? So go slowly...
Ok. So far so good... This is the speaker, well, actually that's the speaker encased in a small black boxy thing with two gold plated connectors. (see next Pic for a close up).
As you can see, the two gold plated connectors on the speaker container match the two spring connectors on the mother board.
Ok, here we need to be very, very careful. I pulled both springs as shown on the picture above to give them a little more pressure when assembled again and I also cleaned the gold plated connectors on the speaker container. Make sure you apply only the necessary force to pull the springs since they could be disoldered if too much force is applied. Use common sense.
We're almost done!
Now proceed to put everything back together. Remember to put back all the screws in their correct positions and do not apply excessive force or you will damage the thread and make things worse that they where in the first place. Proceed to close the casing by doing the opposite. Start by placing the case on the buttons and volume slider side first then the opposite side.
You may notice that the camera lens will not allow the case to go all the way, but if you do it slowly it will budge.
Proceed with the rest of the assembly in reverse order.
That's it... You can proceed to test the speaker.
My MDA2 has been working flawlessly ever since!!! :wink:
I hope this procedure was helpful.
Best regards,
Rayan
All red crosses instead of pictures...
And then the pictures came
Nice walkthrough you've made !
thanks for the very good explanation!
Illustrated by pictures is always great!
Thanks
Thanks, this is my way of saying "Thank you" to this marvelous community! 8)
P.S.- If you don't see the images, please try again later, since those images are hosted on my webserver and sometimes I need to reboot it... sorry...
Best regards,
Rayan
Just a little bump since I've noticed that many people want to open their beloved devices and I thought my walkthrough might help...
MODS: Any chance to make it a "Post it?" :wink:
Best regards,
Rayan
Excellent post, cheers, and if English is your second langauge then I'd never have known it! There are plenty of people for whom it is their first langauge who can't write as well as you!
Wow. Your documentation is better than what comes with the XDA itself! And your English is better than most people in the US. Great service to the XDA community.
Excellent work, man!
Thanks guys!
I'm glad you liked it!
If anyone has questions about the procedure, please don't hessitate to ask!
Best regards,
Rayan
Great! Somethings in life are free, for opening your XDA II there's Mastercard!!!
hahahahaha
pictures are gone? or is it just me?
did anyone kept a copy?
Sooooo sorry guys... I switched to a new hosting company and recreated my website but forgot to restore those images... I will take them back online ASAP!
waiting for the pics to comeonline again!
please do it asap!
thanks
any luck putting the pictures back online ?
Hello folks!
Sorry for the loooong delay, but as you can see, the pics are back!!!
If you have any questions about the procedure, don't hesitate to ask.
Best regards,
Rayan
Can someone help me?
I had the same problem myself, except that i've done all the stuff you said and i still have the problem... I can hear the phone ringing, but no sound comes from the device (Alarms, appontments, Media Player, etc). When i answer the calls i can't hear any sound from the people who is calling me... Can someone help me?
:shock:
Gents,
Slightly off topic, so please bear with me.
My M1000 has had a problem ever since I got it. The camera seems out of focus as soon as I try to make pictures past say 1,5 meters. Would the serrated ring around the camera lens perhaps be used to focus the device?
Thanks!
Stefan out
I tried to move the serrated lens just to play with it and see if I could get better focus and remember that it was really hard as if it was glued or something.
However, I didn't apply much force but seems like it's meant to be some sort of focus adjustmet, specially because it looks very close to the lens in my webcam when disasembled.
Should you give it a try, let us know...
is there a way to power an ipaq 3630 without the power adapter but with a different battery? like a cel battery? how is the power conector to the ipaq and battery?
I bought today p3600. I have however a small problem. I cannot unfortunately open the cover. therefore I can not use akku and sim card. I have fear that I make p3600 broken. i need a assistence, heelp!!
if anyone can send me some picture how to open the back cover of p3600
sorry for bad english, thanks to google
my msn: [email protected]
did you manage to open the battery cover? I have the same issue.
I must be blind, but I cannot find a way to open the battery compartment.
You slide the whole back cover up. You need to use some force, and you hear a click sound when it opens. No covers sliding of by mistake on this model
Thank you!
Finally I was able to manage. You do have to apply some force. As a first timer opening the Trinity's battery compartment, I was a bit scared, but after reading your message, I said: "let's go for it! if it brakes, I'll say it was defective" .
andreuroig said:
Thank you!
Finally I was able to manage. You do have to apply some force. As a first timer opening the Trinity's battery compartment, I was a bit scared, but after reading your message, I said: "let's go for it! if it brakes, I'll say it was defective" .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
LOL
I also had MAJOR problems opening my Trinity...glad I'm not the only one - it was a bit embaressing ;-)
Opening the Trinity
1. Remove the stylus. This helps.
2. Use the edge created to gently push up.
3. It slides only a very short distance (2 cm) to free the back cover.
4. NO pushing on the back cover like the Prophet.
Removing the stylus does help. Thank you.
Where do you put your fingers to slide up? Does the camera slide up as well?
//edit
I found out how to open. thanks for the hints!
Glad you managed.
I think it is one of the hardest removing covers I've seen to date.
How to open the back of the HTC P3600 Trinity for battery and SIM
The HTC P3600 Trinity is a really great phone. But opening the back to put in the SIM and battery is really astonishingly difficult.
The first piece of advice I offer is if you bought the phone in a local store, go back and have a member of their staff do it! Even if it is a long drive! If it does break then they will be responsible!
But, like many people, I bought mine from an online merchant so that was not an option for me.
I regret it is difficult to provide a meaningful photo. But I hope the following description may be helpful to someone.
Ignore the very minimal directions in the user guide which simply refer to sliding the back open. This is misleading. No sliding is involved. The photo in the user guide also does not correspond to the actual back of the phone so should also be ignored. It is actually one piece of molded plastic that encompasses the entire back and goes around some of the sides too. There is no panel or section to slide or swivel open.
Also ignore the two little raised bumps low down at the back. They look like the back of the Magician. I initially expected to push downwards on them to slide the back off. Not so!
Unlike the Wizard there is no release switch, as there is no panel to open.
The back pops completely off by being levered directly backwards away from the front of the phone. Not up-down-left or right. Just directly backwards.
Like this:
|Back| <--> [Prise with force!] <--> |Front|
I recommend using a soft surface for your phone during this ordeal! Something like a big cushion or a sofa or a bed. Not a hard desk. This process will take both hands and your phone will need a soft landing if slips away from you!
The only notch to use for initial leverage is if you remove the stylus. I took out the stylus to make this notch accessible. I then used two spare Magician stylii to prise the back off. I used the handle ends, not the tips. First I placed the handle end of one stylus in the notch where the Trinity stylus goes and twisted it very hard to begin to lever the back open. Once a gap began to appear I forced the handle end of my other spare Magician stylus into the gap to hold it open. Then I found another gap to prise another place on the back open more.
By using the two stylii handles with considerable force I was able to work around the back of the phone until it popped off with a loud "clack". This was an uneasy and contradictory combination of force and care!
Fortunately, I managed to do this without damaging or denting any part of the phone. I was quite relieved as it was not easy.
It does seem the back is made of strong plastic which is sufficiently strong and flexible to stand this force! HTH.
I don't see how you people found the unit hard to open at all. You just push on the lip at the bottom of it while gripping the lip at the top front with your other hand. Took me maybe 5 seconds to figure it out.
Of course, I treat all my electronics like crap and am not gentle with them at all. You guys will have working Trinities four years from now, and mine will probably be at the bottom of a lake within a few months
mikesol said:
I don't see how you people found the unit hard to open at all. You just push on the lip at the bottom of it while gripping the lip at the top front with your other hand. Took me maybe 5 seconds to figure it out.
Of course, I treat all my electronics like crap and am not gentle with them at all. You guys will have working Trinities four years from now, and mine will probably be at the bottom of a lake within a few months
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Witty post, mikesol! I do hope my Trinity will be working 4 years from now... but I have yet to have a handheld last a full year! You may just have your brain properly engaged, unlike me!
To be honest, it was just really absurdly hard to open my Trinity the very first time. Now I can open it quite easily just as you describe. Actually, it feels like it even has the potential to get a bit loose if I opened it a few more times (so I will open again only when essential)
I'd guess some of them come from the factory with the back on really, really tight. Perhaps yours had just enough give to make it a bit more apparent which way to pull? There was absolutely no give in mine any way I moved it first time around. It really would not have come off the way you describe that first time. Of course my fingers are puny and frail!
How do you like the phone?
different method
hi there,
I bought the p3600 yesterday in HK and first had the same problem. And because some of the methods described in this thread are definetly impossible with my model, I would like to present you my way of opening the back cover.
It really slides up. So take the p3600 and put it with the display to the hand in your left flat hand with the buttons on the side where your arm should begin.
Take your other hand and put it in the back of the p3600. you now should look like a Chinese in a temple.
Move/slide now your right hand up in the direction in with the fingers point. use some force. Thats it! I open it this way.
stucki said:
hi there,
I bought the p3600 yesterday in HK and first had the same problem. And because some of the methods described in this thread are definetly impossible with my model, I would like to present you my way of opening the back cover.
It really slides up. So take the p3600 and put it with the display to the hand in your left flat hand with the buttons on the side where your arm should begin.
Take your other hand and put it in the back of the p3600. you now should look like a Chinese in a temple.
Move/slide now your right hand up in the direction in with the fingers point. use some force. Thats it! I open it this way.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From what I gather here (this is a fantastic example of google translation!!! ) I think this "new method" is exactly like what was described by mikesol above. The running theme here is that you must use force to get the unit to open. Also, it is definitely a sliding motion from bottom to top - do not pry it off as has been suggested earlier! I think the camera confuses people (it looks like you need to lift the cover off around the camera - but the whole camera circle comes off as part of the back cover).
I think we can put this one to bed now.
absolutely the hardest cover to remove, but thanks to you "trailblazers" i was able to remove mine without destroying it.
I did my way
HTC Trinity just arrived. Same battery cover problem. Tried to follow advice in this thread but my big, sweaty hands could not gain enough leverage on the extremely shiny casing, to slide the back cover up. My fingers just slipped off. So here is my method. To slide the back cover up you press up (or away from you) on the bottom edge of the back casing and press down (or towards you) on the top edge of the front casing. The top edge of the front casing is maybe 5mm wide, rounded and very difficult to push against, for me at least. My method involves bracing this top edge of the front casing against an immobile hard edge while you push up on the back casing with your fingers. The immobile hard edge I used was a wooden chopping board braced against the wall. To make sure it pressed only against the top edge of the front casing (and not also against the top edge of the back casing which would stop the back casing sliding up) I used a book to next to the wooden board to raised the Trinity to the right height off the work surface on which everything rested. So....I placed the Trinity face down on the book with its top front edge braced against the edge of the adjacent wooden board and used my fingers to press upwards (towards the wooden board) on the bottom edge of the back casing. The back casing then slid relatively easily. Job done. Its not easy putting this into words. Hope someone can make sense of the above and finds it helpful.
Hi there,
I broke my touch screen and tried to replace it by myself.
To make a long story short, I failed miserably (I broke the screen under).
However, I learned a few things I didn't met in the forum.
A- Disassembly of the case.
1- The Legend is glued. So, you have first to use hoven to melt the glue before being able to do anything useful.
15min/ 60 degree in the oven. Or use an hair dryer (I used the former).
2- Don't forget to remove ALL the screws (even the one behind the IMEI notice).
3- Don't try to open the camera lid before loosening the glue or you'll damage the aluminium body.
4- You have to unplug all the différent cables, so take notes to remember where all of them goes.
5- You must disassemble all the boards. There are 2 boards. One supporting the sim / SD connector, and one supporting the screen/touchscreen.
6- When disassembling the screen board, remove it by pulling the touchscreen at the bottom, and lift it up. don't pass a tool on the sides to remove it or worse, under the touchscreen, you'r tool will touch the screen under and break it (like I did). The screen is very, very fragile
Now, I'm stuck here because I can't remove the connector of the legent which is passed under the shield on the back of the screen.
I'm not able to remove the screen so I would like to know how to remove this shielding or get back the touchscreen connector to be able to replace it.
Once I figure out how to remove this shiled, I may be able to remove the screen too.
But now, I'm clueless (it was 2 in the morning when I gave up).
Maybe, some of you knew the trick to open this phone further.
I'd like to hear about it.
A little up to my post for the ones who did not read it till the end:
I can't remove the connector of the legend which is goind under the shield on the back of the screen.
I would like to know how to remove this shielding or get back the touchscreen connector to be able to replace it.
Once I figure out how to remove this shield, I may be able to remove the screen too.
But now, I'm clueless (it was 2 in the morning when I gave up).
mate it sounds like you have trashed your phone.they are built NOT to be taken apart.They require special tools and process to be repaired. The only thing i would suggest is contacting your insurance company and let them know that your phone was crushed under a car or something and then crush it under the car and you can get it replaced. If you dont have insurance, take some out and make a claim in say a month or two.
Its not an honest thing to do but your phone sounds busted and its the cheapest way of replacing that handset.
Post a pic of it if you can
Unfortunately, I have no rights to post a link or some put some pics.
Something about spam and profile that should be reviewed before being able show any pics.
This device is glued. No specialized tools are able to open it without removing it.
That would mean that the phone cannot be repaired, only replaced. My phone's motherboard was replaced, so at the service stations they should have special tools.
Fixed it!
Bottom right hand corner:
Bend the shielding back just enough to allow you to slip the connector in & then use a little glue to stick it back.
Maybe I was lucky, but my phones working as good as new again
I fixed my Legend
Guys, I know it's been a while since you talked but in case someone else is looking for this info, that's what happened to me:
I cracked the display of my legend and purchased a new one on eBay (roughly 40 pounds) - obviously delivered from Hong Kong but a genuine Samsung (in case you didn't know the Legen's screen as well as most of the AMOLED screens are Samsung's).
Then I used the above information plus some YouTube videos to give myself an idea as to what should I do. The result follows:
I used a hair dryer to heat up the back of the phone (camera and loudspeaker cover). Perhaps I should have been more patient as in the end I decided to use a knife with a very thin blade to lift it and I scratched the plastic and the aluminium body a bit. Anyways - the back clicks in but is glued in addition to that so you have to use both the heat and gently applied force.
Once you remove the back cover (which took me the longest out of everything) you should start removing screws. There's two behind the back cover and six behind the bottom cover (where the battery is). At this stage you don't have to remove all the screws - the bottom two, the one behind the IMEI and the one under the VOID sticker hold the main board but the two screws sitting deeper inside the phone's body hold the front buttons so you may leave them for now.
Now comes the trickiest part so read carefully: the main board is held inside the unibody by the screws (which we already removed), but is also glued right below the camera lens and along the sides. You should probably heat it up as much as you can and for a long time. I decided to do it the hard way. My dislplay was already cracked and it's the most delicate part of the phone so I said "whatever" and used the same knife as before - moved it alongside the screen (pushed it in gently from the front) until there was no resistance (the glue let go). Then I pushed and I heated the thing up and pushed and tried from every angle until finally the board slid out of the unibody. I hope you'll find it easier then I did as it seems that everyone describing it found it quite doable.
Now everything becomes easy-peasy. Remove the remaining screws to put the buttons aside (you'll have both the actul buttons and the tiny board with sensors - the latter sticks to the screen but once you remove the connectors, yu can take it off too). All the connectors are quite easy to remove if you hav a needle or something (just pull them out gently). I didn't worry about noting which is which as ther is practically no way you can mix them up - they're very different.
The rubbery plastic black surrounding of the board clicks in, so once you find the right spots you can lift them gently and take the thing off. You'll be left with the display covered by the shielding from the top and a thin metal board from the bottom. You have to remove two more screws to disconnect the main display plug.
And the final bit (that's where the thread's author had a problem I believe). My display was cracked but the shielding - fine. These two are glued together so I had to find some space for my finger nail and lift the shield. By slowly and gently pulling it apart I detached one from the other - and had to do the same thing with the metal board. Don't forget there's some extra stuff to remove from the back of the display - they're all glued but the glue will remain fresh enough for you to glue them again - this time to the new screen. The same applies to the front shield. I hope you won't let any dust sit on it in the meantime. You should have a screen protector on your new display if you bought it like I did. Remove it now and the display will be happy to stick to the old front shield just as if it was always there. The metal back will also fit in.
Now you can go through the above process backwards - just remember to connect all the connectors.
What I didn't do: I didn't use ANY glue putting the phone back together. As an effect the front shield is sticking out a bit (doesn't sit in the unibody tightly). It doesn't affect the phone itself but it gives you the funny feeling that something isn't 100% right. But I prefer that than screwing something up with a misuse of glue (glue can be disobedient).
The most important piece of information: the phone is working 100% correctly as if it was never disassembled by an amateur. Apart from two scatches on the back, the VOID sticker missing, the front sticking out slightly (less than a mm) and the missing battery slider (which I forgot to put back in and didn't bother to repeat the whole process for the sake of it) - there is nothing wrong with the phone. So if you ever crack you ever crack your Legend's screen - you can try fixing it yourself if you have the courage.
I would like to see some photos too But I'm never gonna take my phone apart - can't see the point
Foto's
Nice thread, i myself am wondering, if a better gsm antenna can be fixed inside the phone. and connect them to the 2 connections.
Do you have any pictures of the inside housing etc?
Hi there!
With this post I`am starting a new thred about creating something like this:
out from HTC HD2.
IMPOSSIBRU?
NO!
Right now I have:
two broken HTC HD2 (EU and USA models). Both with broken digitizers. EU model is also disassembled
;
this case
(sorry I've already remade it and dont have original photo);
Ideas! many of em. Too many I think.
Why?
I think it would be great to have pda/phone based on your arm. At least it is always in your hand. Or very close to it .
This thread will contain:
photos. I hope I will not forget taking photos of the process;
maybe sketches. I am very bad in painting, but sometimes it is easier to show your idea rather than to describe it;
many text mistakes. I am using half my studied english half google translate >_<
I am looking forward for some support and of course ideas from those, who are interested in this.
So here we go!
<25.06.14>
Right now I remade case. I got it without protection screen (it was removed with scissors). Screen from HD2 fits it perfectly!
Of course, I could leave the phone simple in there... NO! It is not the way I want it to! It would be as thin and comfortable as possible!
I've removed the belt with velcro (am I using the right word for it? ) becouse it was designed for forearm and is too long for wrist, Right now I'am resew the velcro becouse I want it to contact arm with soft part, not the hard one.
Wow, I've just bent needle. The case rubber is realy tough
As far as my needle is broken and I want to sleep (it is 01:24 lol), I will describe the basic idea now.
I want to separate screen, motherboard, camera and battery. Place them at different part of the hand to make the whole system smaller.
The screen will be on the upper side of the hand. Screen and only screen.
The case will be fasten with velcro. It will be remade also
This case had a small pocket for keys and/or other things
. And it size is just like motherboard
. So I want to put a motherboard in this pocket and place it on the belt on the back (bottom) side of the hand
. Becouse of it small size I beleve that it wouldn't be broken on the hand.
</25.06.14>
Reserved
Reserved
Reserved
Maybe I will use it
your first pic reminds me of the nuclear device in the Predator movies
It might be a bit tricky receiving a call with the phone on your forearm, bt headset?
Look forward to updates on your progress though.
Best of luck
Robbie P said:
your first pic reminds me of the nuclear device in the Predator movies
It might be a bit tricky receiving a call with the phone on your forearm, bt headset?
Look forward to updates on your progress though.
Best of luck
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I found it. Lol, rly look alike (don't have 10 posts to put img here)
The first pic (and basic idea) is taken from the Operation Black Mesa game (HL2 mod)
I think of bt headset or wired headset puted from arm to ear (under clothes it is not so tricky I think). I want to put earphone jack to upper side. I will make some sketches tomorrow.
E1Dor4do said:
I found it. Lol, rly look alike (don't have 10 posts to put img here)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I found it too
Good looking ...
Great Work ... Deserves a Try ... Thanks Man ...
25.06.2014
So here we go again
Right now a friend of mine is making some sketches about a basic concept (I told that I'm bad in painting)
Here goes the basic concept:
I am thinking about how to make screen wiring longer. I want to make my own wiring for it. Here is example:
The problem is: is has 45 (!!!) connectors. Very tricky, but I think it is possible. I believe. I hope...
Right now I'm thinking how my own wiring can be connected to screen wiring. I'm thinking about disassembling screen connector from motherboard and to install it on my wiring. So screen could be replaced in case.
So right now need ideas: where to place the battery, where to place camera, how to connect all this.
So here goes madness
I've disassemblied screen, where wiring is going, and found this:
I'm goung to cut off the connector from wiring, and solder it to my wiring. Then I will use it to connect wiring to motherboard. On the other side I will silder a connector from motherboard.(I will buy it) so I will make en extantion for standart screen connector
Still alive
Well, I'm not dead yet
Just taking my vacation in Italy.
ASAP I will get back to work.
Stay in touch!
Wow, i love the idea, i would be pleased to do this with my old hd2.
If you complete the project, please write a instruction, i even would pay for something, what looks like
a badass Pipboy from Fallout
Any update on this?
- Purshased a Battery from an online store.
- Tried opening the screw's from the phone, 3 screws came out easily, and with same ease stripped other screw, like butter.. you would not believe how easy was to strip those screw, like they were made to be stripped.
- Drilled the heads off the screws carefully, back plate came off easily..
- Slightly touched, Top Middle screw slot PCB, while drilling nothing serious, had some difficulty with reseating the case while checking as the screw heads were slightly wide due to drilling, but again not a prob, pushing slightly made it fit in..
- Now I was not able to remove the drilled screws, as the nose plier I was hoping to use was slightly wide and I was not able to remove screws except 2.
- All fuctionality appeared to be working fine..
- Finally decided to take the phone to a repair shop............... BIG MISTAKE... IDIOTS had NEGATIVE IQ.
- Said something did something else, Ruined my carefull drilling JOB, Widened the case screw sockets and used 'Display Glue' heat sensitive one to stick the CASE... @#[email protected]#[email protected]%@#[email protected]#$!
- I Said U have helped enough return the phone,
- Later after returning back found problems that were not seen earlier..
-- earpiece - no sound.
-- Landscape mode does not work in sensor test I am able to see that if detects all three axis.
-- Wifi and Cellular works but, show under battery usage cellular signal = RED all time though it is working fine.
-- Phone always stays awake. <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<------------------- (not a software issue as reseting etc did not help)
-- Proximity sensor does not work.
-- Flash was working earlier, now it doesn't.
-- Display Glue.... How do I remove it at home ???
Help me with information if you know more than Flashing phones... Please don't tell refer ifixit.
-- I need details of hardware and how do I test each and every functionality and troubleshoot.
-- If I decide to use my Phone as a development board / computer / server, how and what do I do..
Regards..