Related
Ok so I have the fabled white screen issue on an 8525. When it first occurred I searched and read all the write ups, decided I had the ribbon cable issue. Took it apart and simply unplugged and replugged the ribbon cable with great results, no more white screen.
I repeated once when it came back after being bumped around, again with positive results...but this last(3rd)time instead of it working I now get white screen 95% of the time. I re-notched the sliders the first time, and last time.
During the 5% it works I noticed the charge light would correspond to it going white.This never happened before...
Example:
When OFF - Connect charger, Red light for 1 second, then nothing=White screen from power on
When OFF - Connect charger, Red light for 1 second, then orange charge indicator = normal startup
When ON and Working - Connect charger, no light, no charge - reboots to white screen
When ON and Working - Connect charger, orange charge indicator, reboots normally.
There is no heat or noticeable pressure on any parts, everything seems to fit normally.
It does boot normally with screen white.
Any ideas? I really don't want to give up on this thing, is there any hope? or just ebay it for parts?
Thanks
-Nick
same problems here, if someone could just tell me what parts to order, cause I have no warranty (ordered over ebay). I tried both the instruction that has chinese fonts on the page , and other from R&R, no luck, white screen all the way..
I had the WSOD and took it apart and reassembled a few time. The 3rd or 4th time the screem came back, but now it is shifter to the right around 1/4" or so. I mean there is just white along the left edge, then the normal screen/color starts and is cut off on the right.
Does anyone know how to correct that, is it related to the same flex cable or is there something else I disturbed?
mine will fade to white.. then i just push the power to put it in standby, then push power again to wake it back up and back to normal.. it rarely does it but still annoying...
If You Ordered From At&t
I had this problem about 2 weeks ago!!!!
I thought it was a fluke!
Anyway, walked over to 43rd and Lexington (NYC FOR THOSE WHO DON'T KNOW THAT MANHATTAN IS THE CENTER OF THE WORLD)
and they gave me the EXCHANGE HOTLINE for at&t.
I called them up, told them my screen is fading to WHITE and the lady sent me a new or referbished phone.. i dont even know.
Just so you know, i ordered my phone on AMAZON with a new activation. its covered under the MANUFACTURERS warentee for a full year from the date of purchase... so is the REPLACEMENT PHONE... but not from the date of replacement, just the date of purchase.
did anyone get deeper into this yet? I got a 8500 (need those without camera) from ebay USA, already with white screen. After reading here, that this is mostly an issue with connectors, I bought it, disassembled it and reassembled it, though still white. Should I give the contacts a treatment with contact-spray? (there's a tuner spray that doesn't leave residues) Or is there something broken within the ribbon cables? Seller said it has been dropped (but he also said, he didn't want to open it, while it clearly has been opened, one screw missing and warranty seal gone). It ssems to boot up normal otherwise, I hear a sound after the boot process, so probably this isn't a software issue?
Edit: another thing I noticed: When I run it without any keyboard connected at all, it's also white. I then connected the dpad again, and I could see a hint of the at&t logo in the lower part of the screen. When I pressed around on the back of the dpad a bit, all LEDs would go on/off... Sound to me like the dpad has gone bad, possible?
Edit II: Got it. Using a 20x eyeloupe I found that the PCB of the DPad is broken under the little chip on it. Now I just gotta find a dpad here in germany, but I assume those Hermes' are all equal...
hello
where can I get manual (if there is one) for disassembling hermes. link in wiki does not work.
thanks
this worked good for me
http://inuchanbt.blog54.fc2.com/blog-entry-100.html
Anyone know if this applies to the 8125 as well? I've got a flickering white screen. I had dropped my phone a few weeks back and cracked the LCD. Replaced it with an OEM LCD - it worked fine for about 2 weeks and then just suddenly went all white. Phone still works, I can still get calls - just can't see who is calling.
I don't recall that the wizard had the same problem... Though from a logical point, it seems that there is an issue behind white screens and the thumbpad being responsible for it, so it may well be the same thing. Perhaps just disassemble the wizard (there should be a howto too) and check if theres a similar connection from mainboard to thumbpad circuit.
Is there a disassembling manual for a imate k-jam that anyone knows about?
Here's a website with a video manual i found useful...
http://viralelectronics.com/category/howto/page/2/
Figured out the problem...
The only reason I figured out the screen goes blank is because the motherboard loses connection with the screen when you slide the keyboard out...try this out and see if the screen comes back...
put the screen on sleep mode (no white screen)...then slide out the keyboard and tilt it a little hard after pressing on the screen and put the power on. if it doesnt work try again it might take some pressure and power to make it work...be careful not to put too much power but as far as I went, it's a very sturdy cell.
alternately, slide out the keyboard in sleep mode, and press all the buttons really hard and then try to press the power button (press more towards the space bar because that helps)...if any of this works and the screen comes back on even just for a second...follow the following
Go back to the person who gave the link to the site with opening the HTC instructions and follow through and clean the whole phone up from dirt around the screen and such...you dont need to put those rubber things or whatever it says to put on the screen...then when you are putting it back together, press hard on the wire connecting the touch screen to the motherboard. I suggest sealing it with a good tape...and then you are good to go! I did it but it had a few glitches...the screens contrast sometimes goes awry but it is still visible and responds to touch. Also, the physical buttons work as well!!
Good Luck and do it at your on risk.
Have any of you tried this? http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=321163
hope the best
i tried this and it worked for me. i also pressed alil hard around the d-pad and heard a pop. i think it poped back into place.
thanks
razor rc said:
i tried this and it worked for me. i also pressed alil hard around the d-pad and heard a pop. i think it poped back into place.
thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i still have this problem.
fixed my wsod
I noticed a few days ago my 8525 screen went white, rebooted and it went away. Today it came back, but would only go away for a few seconds and then back to white. After reading some forums I decided to check the connector. I took the phone apart following this site as a guide. I removed the connector on the board side and cleaned the contacts with a qtip and denatured alcohol. Phone has been perfect for the last few hours, no more white screen of death. I didn't mess with the connector on the LCD side, just the board side. I'm a computer tech and I found it quite annoying to disassemble, but I managed without causing any damage, however, I'd rate the job at about a 8/10 as far as technical ability.
Joey
warped0202 said:
I noticed a few days ago my 8525 screen went white, rebooted and it went away. Today it came back, but would only go away for a few seconds and then back to white. After reading some forums I decided to check the connector. I took the phone apart following this site as a guide. I removed the connector on the board side and cleaned the contacts with a qtip and denatured alcohol. Phone has been perfect for the last few hours, no more white screen of death. I didn't mess with the connector on the LCD side, just the board side. I'm a computer tech and I found it quite annoying to disassemble, but I managed without causing any damage, however, I'd rate the job at about a 8/10 as far as technical ability.
Joey
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i agree that this is one of the first things to try in curing the white screen issue. Others may find their problem runs a little deeper and the contacts on the d/pad chip are broken. An improvised cure which may not be very permanent is to place a little padding on the surface of the chip as described here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=321163
If you have appropriate heat gun equipment you can re-flow the solder on the d/pad daughter board - but remember to remove the sticky key pad layer or you'll cook it!!
I regret that I'm closing this thread because we have several "White Screen" threads and the questions and answers are being spread all over the place.
Please use this one for future posts:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=321163
Mike
I have read many threads and forums about the problem of the Hermes becoming white. The soft reset in this case does not help.
I found the explanation in my case and I am not able to fix it quickly, without opening the device to screw the connector.
The problem is only due to the temperature of the device. When the temp is to hot, the screen is white, in my case, it typically happens when it stays in my pocket et I moving too much throug the office ;-)
Solution, simply open the keyboard and gently blow in the thin area between the two parts of the device.. in my case, the screen comes back in 2-3 seconds.
Enjoy !
Eric
Hermes/Schaps 4.31/Orange CH
To be honest, I have this problem on my 838 (wizard) previously.
I have found someone (engineer who I need to pay) help me to check.
It is actually the connection cable between the keyboard and screen start breaking.
This makes the connection poor.
End up, my wizard cannot be repaired and I have borrow my freinds hermes to use in the mean time.
I suggest you pay special attention to it.
I suppecm that you blow it is actually helping the connection of that cable.
huh
are you guys serious in what you're talking about?
blow in between the two parts of the device when it's hot to get the connection of the cable back?
are you sure you are talking about a mobile phone and not about a compressor?
thanks for your feedback. I am convince that in my case, the gentle blow does not move the connecting cable.
Additionaly, the tipical symptom reported in various thread is that the soft reset does not help, while letting it apart for 15 minutes does help. It can confirm that the simple temperature idea is fine.
Again, it works for me, it can help others, and sorry for the others that won't find a solution with mine!
actually, i am neutal to this topic.
But just want to share my experience.
In my case, my cable is aging. Initially, it can help with slide the keyboard open and close.
End up the engineer told me that cannot be repaired deal to no parts. he examined it using a microsope watching the cable.
no need to take it too series.
It is a cable connection issue, it is caused by either dropping or opening and closing the device numerous times. It can be fixed the part cost around $20 kinda hard to find but can be found if you search enought. I can repair the device if your interested either pm me or you can contact me at
[email protected]
nate
when this happened to my hermes last August i found slightly unscrewing the two screws on the back of the screen fixed it & not had a problem since
didnt know what the white screen was 'till i got it right after the external volume crapped out, so tired of tinkering with hermes, going Kaiser
As a science experiment I have bought a number of hermes on ebay- it is a cable connection issue or worn cable in the 4 I have played with - all fixed by cleaning and reinstalling cable/connection or replacing the cable assembly. I cant say this is the only bug but 4 outy of 4 inducates a trend to me
John
Oh my gosh, topic starter, that is the same exact issue that I frequently have with my 8525. I eventually found out that if I leave it in direct sunlight, put it in my pocket for too long, or in anyway expose it to relative heat, then it would turn white.
That's a nice "fix" you have there hahah. As for me, I just let it cool down by placing it in a cool and shaded place, works like a charm after a few minutes.
Anyone with a WHITE screen MUST READ this!!!
To bring credit to what I say below, I haved had tinkering experience with electronics for the past 10 years, not to mention that I am currently a 3rd year electronics engineering student.
I currently have 4 hermes units.
When I first had the white screen prolem on my first hermes about a year ago (may be 8-10 months?) my research on the net revealed that the problem is apparently the connector on the button pad board (part number 50H000380-30M-A). After serious tinkering and tweaking I finally got the (extremely sensitive) connector connected up so that the white screen issue actually dissapeared. However, since the connection was so delicate and so sensitive, I had to fix it in place with a hot glue. Hot glue actually added some thickness to it; given that there isn't much tolerance between the top of the connector and the cover, I needed to scrape away some plastic without putting a hole in it so it can accommodate the extra thickness, this is also required for the sliding function to be smooth.
However, right now I have 4 hermes, and I am faced with the same issue. On two units I have the white screen problem. After some intuitive testing I have found that the problem is not with the flex cable, nor with the connector on the flex cable, nor the connector on the button pad board. The problem is with the actual button pad board itself, as it contains fair bit of circuitry on board.
This is how I came to the conclusion. Since the white screen can be fixed with sensitive alignment of the connecor on the board, I wondered if it will display anything with that D-pad (button pad board) disconnected. On trial, it didn't display anything on both a functional unit and a unit with a white screen issue. From this I made the assumtion that the LCD initialisation sequence is contained on the button pad board (part number 50H000380-30M-A).
Having made this assumption, I thought since the symptoms of having it disconnected on a functional unit is the same with a unit that has the white screen symptom, I wondered if it will fix the white screen problem if I changed over the button pad board. On trial, I found that the white screen problem was a thing of the past. So, I don't know what on the button pad board actually causes the white screen, but it is DEFINITELY the board it self and not the connector.
PS: I don't know the proper names of the components but by the button pad board I am talking about is the board that lies under the front buttons of the unit that has the call, end call, start, ok...etc buttons.
uengin, u totally had make ur homework regarding the white-screen-issue.
Anyway, for me, I face the exact problem too. And my way is much simpler. When ever I face the white-screen problem (this cause by the high temperature, coz I notice it only happen when I put my 838 on my pocket while walking during sunny day), I simply turn off the screen for a while (by lightly pressing the power button), like 3-5 second, then turn on the screen back. And, voila~ it back to normal.
i get a white screen when i press on the plastic casing on the lower right side of the screen, above the right bar button. no temperature involved here. sending the hermes to sleep and waking it up restores the normal screen.
pcpc said:
i get a white screen when i press on the plastic casing on the lower right side of the screen, above the right bar button. no temperature involved here. sending the hermes to sleep and waking it up restores the normal screen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There's actually a BGA chip in that vicinity on the button pad circuit board. It may or may not be that chip thats causing the issues, but I find it higly likely it is...
uengin said:
There's actually a BGA chip in that vicinity on the button pad circuit board. It may or may not be that chip thats causing the issues, but I find it higly likely it is...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
if it is the chip, then this would be a loose soldering point?
would you recommend to handle the hermes with great care? eg. not putting it in my trouser pocket because oft the pressure?
pcpc said:
if it is the chip, then this would be a loose soldering point?
would you recommend to handle the hermes with great care? eg. not putting it in my trouser pocket because oft the pressure?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I doubt its a "loose" solder joint. It could be a dry joint. But then again you never know. However, the symptoms with the heating and cooling mentioned in the thread it could be one of the several devices on the button pad board failing due to heat.
As a general rule of thumb, definitely electronic devices of this calibre should be dealt with a level of care indeed.
nohanz said:
uengin, u totally had make ur homework regarding the white-screen-issue.
Anyway, for me, I face the exact problem too. And my way is much simpler. When ever I face the white-screen problem (this cause by the high temperature, coz I notice it only happen when I put my 838 on my pocket while walking during sunny day), I simply turn off the screen for a while (by lightly pressing the power button), like 3-5 second, then turn on the screen back. And, voila~ it back to normal.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same for me which seems software issue but how to solve it
I'm having white screen problem too. I highly doubt it has anything to do with a cable because:
1) I almost never use keyboard, aka don't slide open the phone
2) lately white screen often happens when I touch a screen.
3) several times white screen got fixed by holding the phone next to aircondition outlet.
4) white screen recently started at the same time I've noticed that the battery started dying, it doesn't last as long as before. Before this battery I had another one, similar, and also never had white screen while that battery was new.
To conclude all this, at least in my case is more likely it's a battery issue and/or overheat. Tomorrow I'll use the original battery (I've replaced it with 3k mAh 2 years ago) this should proof me right or wrong.
My white screen issues started after a waist-high drop onto concrete, accompanied by the D-Pad and the surrounding buttons not working. In order to get the white screen to go away and the buttons to work again, I have a simple 2-step process:
Put the Hermes to sleep
Press hard right above the D-Pad/below the screen
When I wake the device up, it works just fine!
Interesting Find......
I just noticed something about my white screens.
IF the poweron led does NOT turn on then I get white screen when turning on my hermes.
If the poweron led turns ON(lights up) when turning my phone on then it won't white screen on me.
Hi, peeps. Would like to ask for your assistance in troubleshooting my old T-Mobile MDA - the one that is also the Xda mini S.
The unit in question is 2nd hand although it was still in good shape when I got it. Used it for over a year already and has seen much use. Once, the insides got wet and I had to dry it out but it was okay after that. Although the keyboard wasn't showing any backlight until I figured out that a blowdryer would help remedy that situation (after careful dismantling).
Recently, the screen when you slide open the keyboard either comes up blank (whole screen is just white) or is discolored and a bit disaligned (the top part is either missing or is at the bottom of the screen). It happens too on the normal layout at times.
I upgraded the firmware with the most recent one I downloaded here last year. No problems experienced though with regards to the OS and not sure if the recent problem can be attributed to it.
Any ideas and suggestions?
I got the same problem on with the screen my Cingular 8125. When I slide the keyboard open, the exact same thing happens to my screen. Sometimes It only used to happen maybe once every 10th time, but as of last, it is happening all the time.
I spoke to someone at a repair store in Toronto and the guys said it will cost close to $100 to replace some wiring in the back. It didn't seem worth it for me so I got another phone instead, but I would love to keep using this phone if this could be replaced.
Hey guys. If you are comfortable, I would suggest dismantling the phone and taking a look at the ribbon connector between the board and the screen. My guess is that it is loose, or damaged. Reseat the ribbon and try again. Otherwise I would see if replacing the screen helped. Certainly much cheaper than a new phone...
Reseating
first of all check out the socket (on board) where the screen coaxial cord is plugged in , r all the connector pins alligned or are any bent / pulled back ?
in that case reset pins location using a tiny neidle or pin, also use a double faced adheisive tape on the back of the screen connector to rest it tight to keyboard (original setup only they use glue).
second check out if the screen does that if was flipped using software , if it was a hardware case and upper solution wouldnt help then check to see if the sliding mechanism (two plastic identical bars screwed by two screws each to the top and the buttom of the screen) are aligned and screwed tigh to the screen.
now the wizard hardware is a survivor but any tampering with it require tight reseating , screwing and later reflashing (even if the software showed unaffected).
Hi, I come on here quite a lot for information as it's an amazing resource! This time however, I'm attempting to give something back!
I experienced the "black screen on slide out" on Monday. Phone completely screwed. I've also had a few droppages and had it apart once before so there's no way warranty is gonna help!
I stripped it down and soon discovered what it is that actually fails on the ribbon. The coating had worn through due to rubbing on something during the slide out / in process. it had been playing up for a while, probably due to shorting out on the metal case, but now the tracks (aluminium?) had worn right down.....
In pic 1 i've circled the worn area. The shiny section is where i'd tried taping over it to prevent shorting, before i realised the tracks were gone.
Got an almost new one off ebay for 15 quid and, realising it was going to happen again, came up with a solution that, so far, looks like it will work....
A while back I bought some "anti rattle felt" for my car's dashboard - really thin and strong self adhesive felt to prevent squeaking joins between dash sections. I cut a piece of this and stuck it to the new ribbon. Once this stuff is on it's well stuck, by the way!
See pic 2 for the modded ribbon cable.
On reassembly everything is working just fine so far! Here's hoping that it lasts longer than 6 months this time!
Just need a new casing now as mine is decidedly second hand!
Hope this turns out to be of use to someone!
cool story bro
when i took apart my xperia to replace the housing this seemed like a really weak point in the device. glad to see someone who has had the problem has been able to fix it
Why does the screen go black?
Hi,
When the coating wears off the ribbon cable it exposes the tracks in it. when you slide the keyboard out the exposed tracks short out on the metal casing and the screen loses it's input signal.
thats whats happened on mine at least and i presume quite a few others?
HTH!
Update:
That's interesting: My phone was also losing signal with the keyboard out, and occasionally while closed up as well. It would just randomly drop to "no signal" for a few seconds.
It hasn't done it since replacing the ribbon cable.....could be coincidental of course.
I'm having the same problem
It just started a week ago and I got the phone in January off of ebay. I'm new to opening up the phone so could anyone help me find the correct tools or have a link to a site with pictured instructions?
I noticed that the sliding mechanism started to go loose about 4-5 months ago but didn't expect the screen not respond in landscape mode. I have yet to see the other symptoms you all are referring to. I would like to fix this before it get worse.
In mine case it went totaly black after one week of this problem... You have all the instruction on youtube, there is where i looked. For tools you can be inovative, but the exactly right ones come with housings from ebay, it is only 15EUR, and i bet you have some cracks so it wouldn't hurt replacing. That is what i did, along with ordering new sliding mechanizm, and new ribbon cable.
I am open for ideas to prevent my ribbon cable from being cut at it weakest point again.
I'm assuming my flex ribbon went bad yesterday, since sliding the keypad out causes my screen to shut off.
Already ordered a cable off ebay and will attempt to replace it myself :O
Replaced my flex ribbon cable with one I bought on eBay. The screen doesn't turn on at all now, which leads me to believe the cable I was sent is defective. Put the old one back in and it works okay, less landscape mode. ughhh what a pain.
great tips! my input is I bought a case off of ebay that was ~60$ and everything actually fit fine for me...so I wouldn't discount every seller but you do get what you pay for, the 15$ cases are probablly the ones that will give you problems
I working in a mobilephone repair center if anyone need help drop me a priv... i able to get 2nd hand or even brand new components
Replaced the flex ribbon cable -
I got my flex ribbon cable a few weeks ago and took it to my local repair shop. They replaced it but the LCD screen/optical joystick receives no power. The touchscreen and everything else on the phone works just fine now. I thought it was a defective item so it was exchanged with a new one.
Got the repair shop to replace it again and the outcome still remains the same as the first.
Theres no light coming from the screen nor the side illumination.
I just told the repair shop to just place the original back in for the mean time.
Before the repairs, there would be a flicker of white light and random illuminations. Now there's no lights at all except the power botton.
Could it be defective a batch that the seller was sending out? or the repair shop's mistake and is playing dumb so they do not have to admint fault?
Hopefully there's an easy fix to this problem.
-Also I did inspect the ribbon before and after the repair. looks new as the OEm
Can anybody help me out with this new problem after replacing the cable -
perhaps you should try a hard reset. Ive had problems in the past where the optical joystick and the illuminators did not work, and that worked for me.
On the other hand, the top illuminators are on the same piece of hardware as the flex cable that was replaced, so a faulty flex cable is possible. The bottom illuminators are on the circuit board that the optical joystick attaches to, separate but connected to the flex cable.
Ive recently replaced my flex cable and touchscreen. The experience i had with the faulty touch screen was that it appeared to receive no power, but was in fact displaying a dark backlit illumination that could only be seen in the dark. At the same time however, the screen did not display anything. I'm not sure if this is similar to your experience, but if so then your touchscreen would need to be replaced.
ive done all repairs on the xperia myself, and one thing ive discovered is if something doesnt work right after a repair, simply disassembling it and reassembling it to make sure all the connections are properly done has worked for me in the past.
"Before the repairs, there would be a flicker of white light and random illuminations. Now there's no lights at all except the power button."
Now when you say the power button, do you mean that a red light appears under it?
I dont know if i can come to a conclusion or that i can help (or have helped) you come to a conclusion, but i can only assure you that the xperia acts out in strange and weird ways.
Good Luck!
Tags
Dismantle / Disassemble Sony Ericson Xperia X1
http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Sony-Ericsson-XPERIA-X1/788/1
http://www.formymobile.co.uk/xperiadisassembly.php
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AWDurQrRt-Y (REAR)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iyGUbxFqvyc&feature=related (FRONT)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=elgC8hwHfYQ&feature=related
For info.
Mike
Thanks for the links. I've tried the hardreset and restoring the original rom but the issue is still there. It's really bugging me that everything works but the LCD screen. I'm currently using MyMobiler to use my phone. The touch screen works fine and so does the soft keys. Just no power for the lights. I might just give up and wait for another phone that catches my eye and then tinker with the xperia myself. but if anyone got a solution or want me to test something then I'll give it a try.
My warranty is no longer affective so I'll use my phone as a tester to help others with any problems.
TRIONDAVE, how's your Xperia running now with the cable mod that you did? Its been 6 months since you created the thread. I hope you're still around.
My Xperia X1 works nearly fine, except for the keyboard issues, so I'm thinking of opening it up. If your Ribbon mod helped I might just do it too once I've got it opened. Mine has a MOUNTain of cracks though, and the battery compartment itself is cracked on both side enough to make the compartment CURVED. Hence the Battery cover doesn't sit well.
I'm looking around for broken Xperias which I might be able to use to change the internal cracked casing. Lets see.
DatDereX1 said:
cool story bro
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My thoughts exactly.
Hello guys, I am in need of real help over here!
Its just that Ive replaced my ribbon cable, the old one got screwd up.
However I got done for 10 minutes ago, tried to start up the phone.. without success :,(
The ribbon cable doesnt have anything to do with the start up, only the screen am I correct? Cause I cannot even start my phone..
Ive connected the charger, but when I remove the battery it shows a red light, meaning no battery, correct?
So what may the problem be exactly? Maybe the battery is all dead, or?
PLEASE HELP!
for the people with ribbon failures how long have you had the phone before it occurred ? im just interested on the cables lifespan.
mine is fine so far but i have noticed the slider is flimsy and rocks left and right.
Last night my Transformer started acting up. I was browsing Facebook, and then I hit the back case just right while setting it down and the screen went all green and purple (garbled/glitchy). I kept pressing it and eventually the screen completely shut off, though the backlight was still on.
In this small "how to", I will show you what you need to reconnect to get the screen back to operational status.
There are two sets of tear down pics for the TF that I found. One comes from XDA member hybridau, found here and the other is Tech Republic. I'll be linking to pics from Tech Republic along with my own as they were a little more informative.
Take the device apart. Torx T5 is needed for the bottom. Work your way from the end they show in the picture here. Then, press down hard (but be gentle ) on the side until the bezel disconnects from the base (pic). Next, gradually work your way around until you get to the dock connector. I used a thin piece of plastic to go around the edges, but I've heard a guitar pic works well (I don't own one). Note: for me, the dock connector was the most difficult part of the bezel to remove.
Remove the four screws around the screen area and then the three around both long sides (six total).
Turn the device over (screen facing down) and remove the back cover (pic).
Now, look for the piece in the pics below. The ribbon needs to be pushed all the way in where you can't see any of the connectors. Mine was visibly out of place. It won't be fully out of place. I used my fingernails to gently move it back into place one side at a time. You may want to try something else... it's not the easiest thing to move back since there is tape that was/is supposed to hold the thing in place.
Full device view:
That's it! I turned it on while it was apart to make sure screen worked, but that's up to you. Put it back together the reverse way... much easier putting it back together. I put the bezel back on the opposite direction I took it off.
Little background on the device:
The device has been dropped a few times while in a protective case or when tossing onto the bed (no visible signs anywhere on the device -- seriously, the device was thrown and dropped more during shipping than it was in my possession), so I called ASUS and they issued an RMA on it. Of course, if the issues are caused by you (dropping), you have to pay. Regardless, shippings going to cost some money.
Thus, I took it upon myself to fix it. I knew it had to be a ribbon that was disconnected because I doubted it was any kind of screen problem. I had also read in another thread here that that when they sent their TF off the return said all the techs did was reattach the ribbon. What a waste of time, money, and effort?!
Anyway... hope this helps someone with the same issues I had!
Thank you very much for the details. It doesn't effect me but I have read several threads where people are having this issue. I am asking a mod to sticky this for awhile so it doesn't get lost
Thanks! I just hope it helps someone else contemplating doing what I did. I almost wasted time and money sending it to Texas for repairs!