cant here the other person but they can here me speaker phone works though
on ebay there is a earpiece ribbon cable do u think that would fix it
tried hard reset any ideas
aaronpoweruser said:
cant here the other person but they can here me speaker phone works though
on ebay there is a earpiece ribbon cable do u think that would fix it
tried hard reset any ideas
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ribbon cable for the earpiece!? Possibly, but check the manuals on Link removed - no longer valid
I wrote a piece a while back for the TyTn (not the same phone I know, but similar). Have a read here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=2001027&postcount=5
Now that front speaker directly contacts the m/board and the spring contacts can bend a little. Easy to fix if you are happy to dismantle.
Mike
thanks
the phone was closed when it fell so not sure on if it is the ribbion cable. also r u sure that the speaker is atached using the spring contacts, because i have the tools and the abiltity to take it apart just dont want to void my waranty if i still have on i have had it for more than 2 years.
aaronpoweruser said:
the phone was closed when it fell so not sure on if it is the ribbion cable. also r u sure that the speaker is atached using the spring contacts, because i have the tools and the abiltity to take it apart just dont want to void my waranty if i still have on i have had it for more than 2 years.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree, if you have a warranty then use it.
If not, then I am puzzled about this earpiece ribbon cable. There are ribbon cables of course but not to my knowledge one for the earpiece. Can you post a link to the item on ebay?
Mike
http://cgi.ebay.com/Flex-Cable-EARP...5|66:2|65:12|39:1|240:1318|301:1|293:1|294:50
i believe my phone is out of warranty but i might be able to reason with the people at the store. but if it is just reseating the contacts that is not hard fro me to do myself
http://gullfoss2.fcc.gov/prod/oet/forms/blobs/retrieve.cgi?attachment_id=738594&native_or_pdf=pdf
i found this i think it is the cable listed on page 17. but as rthis is rather expensive i would rather be sure before i purchase
aaronpoweruser said:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Flex-Cable-EARP...5|66:2|65:12|39:1|240:1318|301:1|293:1|294:50
i believe my phone is out of warranty but i might be able to reason with the people at the store. but if it is just reseating the contacts that is not hard fro me to do myself
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Agh I see what they're referring to now. The flex cable connecting the top daughter board. No - I do not believe it's the flex cable because that would likely mean the top buttons would not work either. Even if it is, the cable, it would just be a matter of re-seating it's push on connector.
In the picture the speaker is the darker object on the left side.
It looks an almost identical setup to the TyTn link I gave above.
Unfortunately it's a fairly major strip down, not just a case of popping off the back casing. The TyTn Service Manual would be helpful. Very occassionally the earpiece speaker is broken (rare - it's normally just the spring contacts), but there is a Motorola equivalent that will fit if you needed one. (The OEM speaker is not easy to source).
Mike
thank you both of my upper buttons works so im gusing it it not the borad. do you think that it is that much of a tear down because i have taken apart many apaches xv/ppc6700's and it was not that much work. also to reseat the contacts i just push on the speaker.
aaronpoweruser said:
thank you both of my upper buttons works so im gusing it it not the borad. do you think that it is that much of a tear down because i have taken apart many apaches xv/ppc6700's and it was not that much work. also to reseat the contacts i just push on the speaker.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you have some experience dismantling then it should be ok. The flex cable between the two halves of the phone may have some sticky tape holding the connector in place - that is a little bit fiddly, but not difficult.
To make the speaker make better contact with the board, you need to bend out the gold colored contacts just a little. (When the phone gets a knock / fall it can bend the spring contacts in and so it no longer makes contact with the board) The pics on here for the FRONT speaker show the contacts I'm speaking about. http://forum.xda-developers.com/show...27&postcount=5
Mike
ok so the speaker is just sitting on the board or is it held done by anything.
aaronpoweruser said:
ok so the speaker is just sitting on the board or is it held done by anything.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is between the casing and the board. Normally the springy contacts make this a firm contact. After a knock the contacts get a little bent and it then rattles about and does not press on the board.
It is NOT soldered on, just pressed against the board (normally)
Mike
mikechannon said:
It is between the casing and the board. Normally the springy contacts make this a firm contact. After a knock the contacts get a little bent and it then rattles about and does not press on the board.
It is NOT soldered on, just pressed against the board (normally)
Mike
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i took the phone apart more of a process than i thought. when i found the speaker it apeared solodered on i pushed on it a little but it didnt fix it.
so do u think i need to replace the board now or any other sugestions
Related
Hi,
The speaker on the outside of my universal (the onw you hold against your ear with when the screen is on the inside) is broken.
That started as something like a bad contact (if I pressed the phone against my ear it would work, otherwise not). Now it is not working at all.
The speaker on the LCD side is working fine.
The advice I want:
I took a look at the service manual PDF I got and disassembling the phone to reach that speaker is a lot of work. I do have experience with diassembling electronic devices and even do some soldering, etc. However, my doubt is this: I have a phone which does work, but the way I like to use it to make calls does not work.
Question 1
Is it worth the trouble to diasassemble the whole device just to check if it is indeed a bad contact due to i.e. dirt? Or will I actually risk breaking something off, which will render the complete phone useless? Looking at the service manual, one needs to use a plastic tool to actually open the phone. How easy do the hinges break off?
Question 2
Has anyone had a similar problem? Was it easy to fix?
Thank you!
Cheers,
vma
you dont need to disassemble the whole phone just disassemble the screen . It isnt that hard to do, just remove all the screws from the screen . The screen casing is difficult to budge at first but once you have freed part of it open, the rest follows quite easily.
Hi,
Meanwhile I couldn't resist and opened it...
...and I found the guilty part.
It seems that the outside speaker is actually attached to the case and uses a contact connection to the PCB. This connection is made by to metal plates, which are tiny and folded. They will compensate the varying pressure made on the case (i.e. when you press it) and I guess with time they tend to break at the fold.
This happend to one of the two contacts. First I tried to fix it, but the truth is that it is so small that it is quite impossible to do anything about it. I considered soldering a small wire, but that would require to solder the other end to the pin on the PCB, which then would mean, I could no longer use a regular replacement speaker, if this one had any other fault (unless I could clean the contact again, but trying that, I could break something else, also).
This means: now I am not able to use the outside speaker anymore...
Question: where can I purchase a replacement one? Would anyone sell me one from a broken Universal (for a symbolic price - anything over 10 Euro is too much, as I would prefer to just buy a another second hand Universal)?
And as I was figuring this out, I used the occation to fix that loose stylus!
1) Open the underside case (4 screws, then open the case all around with some thin plastic).
2) Roll a little bit of celotape and place it between the case and the pin that fixes the stylus in position.
3) Try it out until it is OK.
4) Close the case and that's it!
Cheers,
vma
Hi buddy, in fact I did have the same problem that you're having some months ago, my uni fell and since then the problem just got worst, until some day a couple months ago I opened it and fix it.
It's just like you say, the little golden plated contacts wore off, then the little speaker's metal plates just were too high to make any contact against the pcb, it's really simple, just pull the plates gently away from the little speaker, do clean both sides of the contacts (pcb and speaker's plates), i did this with a little xacto knife (be very gentle), and that's it! It worked just fine.
The problem is that in my case one of the metal plates broke off.
I tried to fix that, but it is to small for me to achive anything.
Cheers,
vma
I dont know if anyone opend their wizard up.... mine is the tmobile mda..
the earpeice does not work when the slider is closed... or halfway...
the keyboard has to be slid completly open for any sound to be heard...
i know its a loose connection somewhere in the slide.... anyone know how to fix it?...
just started happening a few hours ago.
and now neither works... only works in speakerphone... wth is going on
It sounds as if your rigid flex cable is kicking it,
However your phone speaker could just be loose. It is affixed to the front plate and not the Rigid flex board.
I would try to troubleshoot with a dissassembly.
if the main ribbon cable is torn you should replace the rigid flex board. If your speaker is loose or broken You can look on XDA to see if someone is selling one.
ok.. i just read the service manual on how to dissassemble the wizard...
i just want to get a few things straight...
the rigid flex board is the board for the keyboard right?...
ribbon cable is that big thick silver ribbon right?...
if said cable is torn... i have to replace the entire rigid flex board? or can i just replace the ribbon cable instead?
if the speaker is loose... all i would have to do is tighten it... if it is broken .. all i have to do is replace it right?...
------
im sure the speaker isnt broken.... because it was working when the slider was slid open... and not working when it was closed.
bigjoe87865 said:
ok.. i just read the service manual on how to dissassemble the wizard...
i just want to get a few things straight...
the rigid flex board is the board for the keyboard right?...
ribbon cable is that big thick silver ribbon right?...
if said cable is torn... i have to replace the entire rigid flex board? or can i just replace the ribbon cable instead?
if the speaker is loose... all i would have to do is tighten it... if it is broken .. all i have to do is replace it right?...
------
im sure the speaker isnt broken.... because it was working when the slider was slid open... and not working when it was closed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi there bigjoe,
where did you find the service manual for the Wizard? I have audio problems myself (the mic and speaker just died, i can´t hear anything and the caller can´t hear anything, but the damn thing rings nonetheless!) and my warranty is up. So I would like to take a peek inside!
bigjoe87865 said:
ok.. i just read the service manual on how to dissassemble the wizard...
i just want to get a few things straight...
the rigid flex board is the board for the keyboard right?...
ribbon cable is that big thick silver ribbon right?...
if said cable is torn... i have to replace the entire rigid flex board? or can i just replace the ribbon cable instead?
if the speaker is loose... all i would have to do is tighten it... if it is broken .. all i have to do is replace it right?...
------
im sure the speaker isnt broken.... because it was working when the slider was slid open... and not working when it was closed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, Here are the answers in order.
The rigid flex board is the board you see in the top portion of the wizard (where the screen and buttons are housed.)
The master ribbon cable is the big thick silver one yes.
I would replace the board it could just as well cause problems.(it's not too expensive)
If it is loose re-seat it in it's place. If broken replace it.
---to epatnor
Have your first tried hard reset?
It sound as if your master cable is or rigid flex board going, but it could simply be your speaker and mic.
The service manual is here:http://www.megaupload.com/?d=BEG0XKM8
Hope this helps you.
-M
I'm hoping somebody with some knowledge of the HD2's innards can help me...
My vibration stopped working on my HD2. I found the plastic LED flash cover to be 'pushed in' (with the help of a couple xda threads I dug up). Others said it was an easy fix: Open the case and push that piece of plastic back into place.
I opened up the case to correct it. But after putting it back together not only does vibrate not work, but the volume keys, speakers (both earpiece and speakerphone), flash, notification led, and camera all don't work.
I obviously screwed something up, but I have no clue what it could have been. I was very careful. One thing I'll note is that when I pulled the case apart, the plastic volume rocker went flying. When putting the phone back together I got it back into place so that I THOUGHT it should work (it was seated properly and felt "clicky" for up/down movements.
But clearly wasn't just the volume rocker that was affected. It doesn't seem that I pulled anything else loose or anything like that...
But no luck, all that I listed above is non functional, and what I'm left with is a glorified 3.5 in tablet
Any ideas?? Thanks in advance!!!
Snapped a couple quick pics which may help:
http://i50.tinypic.com/mmsa36.jpg
http://i47.tinypic.com/sl1kdx.jpg
Unfortunately when comparing these to other pictures of the inside of the HD2 that I found online, I fail to see any differences, or anything I could have inadvertently screwed up.
Most likely you screwed up(or disconnected from motherboard) somehow your main flexboard, but your picture are not usable for this, you should take off your motherboard+main flexboard from chassis to have a full view!
You probobly just disconnected a small cable. I have no idea of the HD2 innards but did multiple repairs of small stuffs and the flat cables hold in place by a plastic clicker pull out easily - just reopen and check them all, you should be fine.
Thanks for the input! I figured it's something like that, just one small cable. But I didn't even take off the board at all... The pictures show the full extent of the disassembly... Do we still think it's necessary to disassemble it further?
I checked all visible connections, but yeah, maybe I somehow yanked out something that is NOT visible. I'll try to check again today... In the meantime, any more ideas from anyone else? Thanks!
For al that to be not responding I would assume main-flex damaged or as mention before maybe connection to mainboard got moved during pulling cover !
Volume button can be troublesome, sometimes the little plastic caps come off but if it felt clicky should be good in that respect.
also be very carefull of thin spring metal legs that contact antenna pads on back cover, one near screw above & right of vibro motor looks a to be a bit flat. They bend easily & break easily too ...
Have u tried starting up the phone without the backing? I had this issue when I painted my housing the led cover was stopping the motor from spinning but if i took out the backing it works. So I just trimmed the led cover and now it works.
Mister B said:
For al that to be not responding I would assume main-flex damaged or as mention before maybe connection to mainboard got moved during pulling cover !
Volume button can be troublesome, sometimes the little plastic caps come off but if it felt clicky should be good in that respect.
also be very carefull of thin spring metal legs that contact antenna pads on back cover, one near screw above & right of vibro motor looks a to be a bit flat. They bend easily & break easily too ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm nooby with regard to this stuff; I only attempted the repair since I read in a couple other threads about multiple self-proclaimed non-super-tech savvy people were able to open it up and move the plastic LED cover for an easy fix.
So what exactly am I looking for with regard to the main-flex? Where is it? I thought I wouldn't really see that unless I removed the board which I haven't done... is it still possible I knocked it loose or damaged it? I didn't think that would be possible since I ONLY removed the back cover (though it does take a slightly uncomfortable amount of force to do so, so I guess anything can happen...).
If not the main flex cable, is there anything else specific to look at which may be disconnected? It seems to be all the stuff at the top of the phone that fails to work (camera, speakers, vibration, flash, volume keys). While the stuff on the bottom (other hardware buttons, charging jack, headphone jack, etc).
THanks!
I have given up. After being stumped briefly how to hard reset the device without the volume keys working (I have Android installed), I was able to do it via ADB from the Android dev kit.
To ebay I go...
I purchased the wireless charging cover for my Droid 4, and two LG wireless charging pads for work/home. I can't stand the beep it makes when it begins charging.
I opened up one of the pads, hoping there was an obvious speaker with some wire leads I could cut, but it's not obvious to me what makes the beep. I've attached a picture of the board if anyone has any input. I'll update this if I figure something out.
Here's a guy that pulled a speaker off the PCB with pliers, but didn't describe which component.
The speaker is actually the large box at bottom-right. I ran a knife around the edges and pulled at it with some pliers, and the top of it came off like a cover, with some piece inside. The beep is no longer emitted without this piece.
at first i couldnt figure out how to remove the back but found the screws under the four rubber nubs.
I followed the directions on the amazon link posted and pulled the entire black box off from the circuit board!
I put the thing back together and it now charges silently. I really dont see how this thing ever left the design room after the prototype was made with that terrible beep sounds
Component PZ1 (Bottom Right on that picture) is the buzzer. The other black thing with glue around it (Reference L1 on the silkscreen) is an inductor, which is very likely to be part of the charging circuit or voltage regulation circuit, removing it would end in tears, as was the case with one of the guys on that Amazon page.
Also, I strongly recommend against yanking parts off PCBs with pliers. Depending on how strongly it's held on you could crack the circuit board or damage neighboring components. You really want to clean away that adhesive, being careful not to cut the PCB, and then use proper desoldering equipment (soldering iron and solder wick, hot air gun, etc.) to remove the speaker.
What's the best way to get the back cover off? I can't seem to rip the rubber nubs out.
Ok I got the back cover off, but I'm having a hard time taking off the screws that hold the circuit board to the back.
Little Green Robot said:
What's the best way to get the back cover off? I can't seem to rip the rubber nubs out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a hard time with mine as well
Sent from my SGH-T989 using xda premium
Ok, I finally got sick of hearing that annoying beep. So I searched it and found this post. Did the deed and fixed it. Thanks for all the help.
Now, I would also like to find the notification sound that comes on when I place my phone on the pad.
If I turn my phone sound "off" it doesn't make the sound (obviously). But I have gone through all the settings to try to find where I can switch it off permanently.
Unfortunately I can't find it. I thought it would have been under Settings/accessory/Dock Sound but that was not it. Does anyone know how to turn off this notification???
Hi guys,
I just disassembled my HD2 to replace my broken digitizer and touchscreen.
But now i'm stuck with a problem.
What shall I use to glue both items together again?
And the keyboard makes some issues.
I tried to place both parts over eachother to see if they fit but I can't press the keys after it.
Seems like they are stuck.
That's why I didn't want to use superglue because after assembling it I wouldn't be able to change anything.
Maybe pictures tell more than words.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8Q7mXdcJ54&feature=player_embedded
hope that helps you
thanks wasn't the information I was looking for but nevermind
I assembled the device now .. but the next problem occured ..
the hd2 is loading without problems (led shows it) but when I try to power it on it's completely dead. nothing happends
with my old touchscreen it was at least possible to power it on.
my question is:
could the new soldered touchscreen + digitizer be broken? or did I break something during disassembly and assembly?
To be honest I didn't see any mistakes I made.
It's not my first time repairing stuff like that because I used to repair notebooks as a hobby.
Still i'm unsure what the heck is going on with my phone atm.
did you check if the flex cable from display is in the port, there is an white stripe that shows how far it must in the port. Did the phone vibrate when you pressed power button?
I checked the cables and found nothing suspicious.
and the phone didnt even vibrate after trying to power it on.
I'm trying to get a new hardkey board (i hope you know what I mean).
Had problems with the keys being stuck and maybe I killed that one by trying to assemble it.
if the phone doesn't recognize me pushing the power on key it's no wonder it won't do anything.
hope this will fix the problem
12dollar said:
I checked the cables and found nothing suspicious.
and the phone didnt even vibrate after trying to power it on.
I'm trying to get a new hardkey board (i hope you know what I mean).
Had problems with the keys being stuck and maybe I killed that one by trying to assemble it.
if the phone doesn't recognize me pushing the power on key it's no wonder it won't do anything.
hope this will fix the problem
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Most likely something is wrong with your Power button, but you should turn it on with 2nd method:
- pull out battery;
- insert usb cable(connected to PC)/charger in your usb port;
- insert battery.
This way it should turn on whatever OS you have installed on.
If your OS is Android through MAGLDR, connecting it through usb should turn it on by default, unless your battery is not dead!
Check it out!
bib*oops said:
Most likely something is wrong with your Power button, but you should turn it on with 2nd method:
- pull out battery;
- insert usb cable(connected to PC)/charger in your usb port;
- insert battery.
This way it should turn on whatever OS you have installed on.
If your OS is Android through MAGLDR, connecting it through usb should turn it on by default, unless your battery is not dead!
Check it out!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just did as you said and yeah the phone came to life.
so there is definately a dead power button (probably the board is broken)
12dollar said:
I just did as you said and yeah the phone came to life.
so there is definately a dead power button (probably the board is broken)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad to hear that!
Definitely you should replace your keypad flex!
Did you fix the problem with the hardware keys
Hi,
I have very similar problem.
I changed the touch screen on my HD2 and after reassembling I cannot get the hardware keys clicked.
I ordered a brand new key board and brand new plastic buttons. I received them but situation is the same.
If somebody can explain is there any trick during adjusting the plastic buttons to the clickable "small dots" on the board - please help me.
Best Regards
maznevh said:
Hi,
I have very similar problem.
I changed the touch screen on my HD2 and after reassembling I cannot get the hardware keys clicked.
I ordered a brand new key board and brand new plastic buttons. I received them but situation is the same.
If somebody can explain is there any trick during adjusting the plastic buttons to the clickable "small dots" on the board - please help me.
Best Regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Normally this is always down to glass digitizer not being aligned correctly when stuck to LCD.
0.05mm can make all the difference here.
You need review current digitizer position & pre test assembly to centre chassis without tape for a test run on button function.
Also check button board position is exact & located correctly in the pin holes at each end of the board.
original board quality is normally far better than most of the very cheap eBay pattern parts but one or two sellers offer a decent board around $4.50
Also clean all old tape from back of LCD & centre chassis plate so parts fit flush & once all checked new tape can be added, I also use small spots of up40 adhesive sealant near corners & near middle edges for final build up as holds far better than even the best tapes & gives an original strength & long lasting flush look to final job plus us easily removed with razor blade if repair ever needed again.
Super glue is a BIG no no NO.
Hard to get hardware buttons clickable
Mister B said:
Normally this is always down to glass digitizer not being aligned correctly when stuck to LCD.
0.05mm can make all the difference here.
You need review current digitizer position & pre test assembly to centre chassis without tape for a test run on button function.
Also check button board position is exact & located correctly in the pin holes at each end of the board.
original board quality is normally far better than most of the very cheap eBay pattern parts but one or two sellers offer a decent board around $4.50
Also clean all old tape from back of LCD & centre chassis plate so parts fit flush & once all checked new tape can be added, I also use small spots of up40 adhesive sealant near corners & near middle edges for final build up as holds far better than even the best tapes & gives an original strength & long lasting flush look to final job plus us easily removed with razor blade if repair ever needed again.
Super glue is a BIG no no NO.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is not the case in my case , because I ordered full set (digitizer + display) and they arrived factory assembled.
But you are definitely right - 0.05 mm make the difference. I think the problem comes from the fact that the board with buttons cannot be firmly fixed to the 2 small juts on the chassis. You know the plug of the buttons board is on the tail like extension. Probably when I try to cover the buttons board with the LCD+digitizer - the frame of the LCD slightly pushes the buttons board and the juts on the plastic buttons cannot be fixed exactly on the top of the actual buttons on the board. Anyway we are speaking about precise fixing something around 0.05 mm over something else, which is exactly same size... and in the same time you have to fix this without any visibility.
I will continue trying. If you can give me any other ideas - I will appreciate this.
Thanks
maznevh said:
It is not the case in my case , because I ordered full set (digitizer + display) and they arrived factory assembled.
But you are definitely right - 0.05 mm make the difference. I think the problem comes from the fact that the board with buttons cannot be firmly fixed to the 2 small juts on the chassis. You know the plug of the buttons board is on the tail like extension. Probably when I try to cover the buttons board with the LCD+digitizer - the frame of the LCD slightly pushes the buttons board and the juts on the plastic buttons cannot be fixed exactly on the top of the actual buttons on the board. Anyway we are speaking about precise fixing something around 0.05 mm over something else, which is exactly same size... and in the same time you have to fix this without any visibility.
I will continue trying. If you can give me any other ideas - I will appreciate this.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do not rule out the LCD/Digitizer assembly as the china combos are prone to not the best accuracy of assembly as sounds like maybe LCD is mounted just a fraction too low on the digitizer perhaps.
Button board should be fixed via 3M style tape & most replacement boards come with tape ready for fitting.
worth making effort with button board to centre chassis to mount securely then mounting lcd to chassis without tape for a trial assembly & try and check for possible issues such as bent chassis or old tape not removed sufficiently or new assembly alignment not the best.
I would also recommend using original plastic button strip as the copy ones are not always good & have had experience with them before.