Hi guys,
i have a SGH-i780 Smartphone and i am quite happy with it. The only negative aspect is short battery lifetime when beeing always online for push-mail.
Therefore i would like to have a docking station for my device, where i place it and it is been charged. But as the f******g Samsung developers placed the charge/sync connector on the upper right side of the device i would always have to place it in docking and connect charge cable.
Therefore i thought about modifying the phone which means making the 3 battery connectors accessbile from outside to connect the external charger box (including charging electronic!).
And here is my question: do you think connecting a charging electronic directly to the battery while it is inside the phone will harm or destroy parts of the phone? I am wondering whether the internal charging circuit inside the phone will get hurt by connecting another circuit in parallel ...
Thanks for your comments!
For sure this could hurt your device...............
In this case I'd say the risk isn't worth the reward. The risk is that you fry your phone, and at worst it sparks and causes other damage. You can have it check for mail less often, unless you need your email to be live.
such heavy modifications never go without harm to technology.
It simply is not designed to work that way, so you'd be better off with a docking station or a better Powerpack.
You can find those on Ebay for pretty low prices...
thanks for your replies!
I also thought about wiring the +5V and GND pins from the USB connector to the bottom of the device and connect a power supply directly (which but be the way it is thought to be) but the usb connector is very very tiny and i doubt i will be able to connect and solder the cables to the right pins ...
any furhter ideas?
not really no... trying such delicate soldering quests is generally not a good idea without the proper Equipment.
Whatever you do to modify your phone, it will void your warranty and you'll not get a replacement device if you trash yours...
Don't do this!
By bypassing the phone's own charging circuit you are removing any sort of overvolt protection!
Although I am not familiar with this phone and your post is somewhat hard to understand, I take you usually sync it, then take the battery out to charge that separately with another cable?
If that is the case then, no, don't move the connector so you can charge directly to the battery! It will be potentially very bad for the battery and phone.
Out of the question
DO NOT under any circumstances play with your battery.
What you were taught in your physics class do not apply to microelectronics!
There are many 5V+ out there and ALL are different!
While rms value is the same, the waveforms of the current/voltage can be any imagineable. So, the best thing to do near your cradle is to pin a sign "KEEP OUT!"
Technically, you could create another charger that connects directly to the battery. There are dozens of ways.
BUT, since you asked, then you don't understand how. Assuming it is a liPo or LiIon battery, if you charge it wrong, the resulting explosion and fire will be nasty.
Why not get a second battery in an external charger, and just swap them.
worwig said:
Technically, you could create another charger that connects directly to the battery. There are dozens of ways.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you mean while it's inside the phone?
worwig said:
BUT, since you asked, then you don't understand how. Assuming it is a liPo or LiIon battery, if you charge it wrong, the resulting explosion and fire will be nasty.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I already have another appropriate charger because Samsung ships this phone with an charging box.
worwig said:
Why not get a second battery in an external charger, and just swap them.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Because then i would always have to take a second battery with me, every time! That's awful!
I just want to have a docking station, that charges the phone while it's plugged in ... without terrible wiring needed. Then i can make sure the phone is always fully charged when taking it.
I attached 2 pictures showing you my 2 ideas:
1) wiring the external charger directly to the battery (but of course this would also mean connecting it directly to the internal charging circuit of the phone!). I fear this would damage the phone!
2) wiring the power supply to the power supply connector. This should definitely work, but soldering the cables on the tiny connector will be a pain!
Thanks for your help!
Related
Alright heres the story i bought a FM transmitter/charger for my G1 on Ebay a few months ago its been working fine until today. When i plugged it in today the transmitter/charger kinda flash then wont turn back on. So I figured hey its from china I'm glad it worked this long, but when i plugged my phone up at home it still wouldn't charge. I tried multiple chargers and my second battery, nothing. I went to Tmobile and they had to order me a new phone under warranty. So now I need a external battery charger because the phone is completely dead now and I need to get some info off of it and flash it back to its original firmware (its completely modded). Any suggestion? Oh yeah and the loaner phone really sucks.
You could always get a spare 5 volt wall charger (up to 1amp), clip the end off and use a couple alligator connectors to directly charge the battery (with the battery outside of the phone). You would need to mind polarity and make sure to use fine tipped alligator clips with the rubber insulation. It'd only take a short while to charge it enough to retrieve your info.
As always, use care.. 5 volts will not hurt you, but if you leave the battery on the charger overnight and there is no overcharge protection, or if you reverse polarity, the battery could possibly burst.
This is just a quick dirty fix to get the battery a charge prior to returning the phone.
Rick
I didn't know you could do it like that. Thanks for the idea. One question tho. How can i tell the + and - connection on the power cord?
Careful with those Lithium Batteries. They can explode/cause fire if wrong voltage applied (5v with large amperage is too much for it.. The charging circuit in the device controls current) or shorted. Not scaring u off. Better be safe than sorry.
U can use cheap Voltage regulated Universal Chargers like this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Mobile-Phone-Battery-Charger/dp/B001AHU6QU
They have wrong polarity protection too.
on1ydabest said:
I didn't know you could do it like that. Thanks for the idea. One question tho. How can i tell the + and - connection on the power cord?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Once you strip the wire back it will be color coded.. red + and black -
What do you need to take off your phone..? Just remove your SD card. Also, according to other users on this thread, having modified firmware does NOT void your warranty or anything. It doesn't matter if you have it rooted or anything and you send it back.
As probably several other users, I have set my hd2 to NOT charge when connected to pc, as I often plug the cable to transfer pictures, cabs and the likes. This is useful when I actually plug it to the PC, and it regularly charges with stock/compatible cable if connected to mains charger.
Problems could arise when you connect the microusb cable to the standard carlighter plug with an adapter having a female USB connector in it. It gets recognized as a "pc" and thus the device won't charge unless you re-enable charging when connected to PC.
In case you experience this, as per link found in second post of this thread, you can short the two middle contacts of the USB connector (the data pins) so the phone recognizes the charger as a proper one instead of mistaking it for a PC.
http://www.pocketpc.ch/htc-hd2-sons...en-hoehere-ladestroeme-akku-laed-im-auto.html
desribes modification of car charger, sorry but it´s german. HD2 detects via USB data pins, if it´s connected to PC or charger. If USB data pins are connected like described in above, it will be charged by the car adapter as well. To achive this you´ve to modify your adapter as described.
Regards
Georg
Thank you! Google translate is helping me... and believe me or not, it seems that what I was guessing is actually true: you need to short the data pins of the usb cable... could you confirm please kleiner_onkel? I am not quite so sure of what I am reading with google, as that kind of english is quite far-fetched
n that case I could also avoid messing with the insides of the usb-lighter adapter, and just short the cables inside an external USB hub
EDIT: I just tested it, syhorted the middle data pins of the usb-a plug inside a cheapo usb1 hub, it works and charges the phone when "charge from pc" is disabled.
Will meddle to clean the job and then will update first post
Can you please, for the sake of the slow minded such as I, explain why you would not want to charge from PC/USB?
pa49 said:
Can you please, for the sake of the slow minded such as I, explain why you would not want to charge from PC/USB?
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Click to collapse
+1 for why not.never understood why it would even be an option.I could understand if we still used nickel batteries, but not with li+
Shorting the data pins also tells a device that it can use up to 1.85A of current (versus the 500mA of USB2). Your car charger will have circuitry (of varying complexity, depending on the model) to drop the 12V from the car to something usable by your phone (5V). If the components in your charger can't handle the 1.85A current, you could land up with a pretty hefty repair bill. Be careful out there....
Edit: Need a worst case scenario to see how bad it could be? In the most basic case there'll just be a resistor in the car charger. That resistor is likely 1/4 watt, 1/2 watt tops. Put 1.85A through it and it can pop, potentially going closed (short) circuit leaving your phone with 12V to deal with. The extra current that comes with that means you fry part of your charging circuit at best, your battery (possibly explosively) somewhere in the middle and the entire phone at worst.
samsamuel said:
+1 for why not.never understood why it would even be an option.
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Click to collapse
I do see a use, if you're on a laptop running on batteries, you don't necessarily want to empty your laptop batteries faster by recharging the phone if you don't need to. But that's the only one.
Aterlatus said:
Shorting the data pins also tells a device that it can use up to 1.85A of current (versus the 500mA of USB2).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
More like 0.85 actually, like what it draws from the original charger.
Aterlatus said:
In the most basic case there'll just be a resistor in the car charger.
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Click to collapse
Then that car charger would NOT work and would fry every device connected to it...
Car chargers have voltage regulators, which have overcurrent and overheat protection, linear ones for older ones, DC/DC switching ones for everything you find today.
I believe there's actually still an extra step from this mod to the phone knowing it is on the original charger. I have both a Chinese USB charger and a car charger, rated at 650mA and 800mA respectively. On both (with soldered pins), the HD2 will charge at 600mA, not 800-900 like with the original charger. But 600 is of course already better than 450.
kilrah said:
More like 0.85 actually, like what it draws from the original charger.
Then that car charger would NOT work and would fry every device connected to it...
Car chargers have voltage regulators, which have overcurrent and overheat protection, linear ones for older ones, DC/DC switching ones for everything you find today.
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Click to collapse
From: ht tp://pinouts.ru/Slots/USB_pinout.shtml
Dedicated charger mode:
A simple USB charger should short the 2 data lines together. The device will then not attempt to transmit or receive data, but can draw up to 1.8A, if the supply can provide it.
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Click to collapse
It's in the spec, and a car battery won't have any problem supplying the current. A cheap (read: chinese off ebay) charger might well employ just a simple resistor. Sure, any decent charger will use a voltage regulator or a buck converter to maintain the correct voltage. That doesn't mean that ALL will, hence the warning to take care.
"If the supply can provide it" is the key. The USB device will see if the supply can't give that much and its voltage starts to drop.
And anyway the HD2 would never draw 1.8A or it would damage its battery.
I noticed much the same thing by accident as reported in this thread
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=638007
Beware that if your HD2 is set up to detect it, it will turn on Navipanel when plugging in this type of cable
pa49 said:
Can you please, for the sake of the slow minded such as I, explain why you would not want to charge from PC/USB?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
samsamuel said:
+1 for why not.never understood why it would even be an option.I could understand if we still used nickel batteries, but not with li+
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I may be the slow minded here. BUT
1) Everyone having had even third-person experience with laptops knows that using one with a battery inserted and "most of the time" attached to the external power unit, makes the battery die pretty soon, and all laptop batteries are Li-Ion based since quite a while; sure, part of that damage comes from the heat generated on the battery both from the charging and the laptop being turned on, but all the rest is caused by the "unnecessary" repeated charges (confront the "battery university" website for this)
2) I often plug/unplug the cable from the pc to move several small files, I just don't feel comfortable doing it if everytime the battery gets a "charging hit", for the aforementioned reasons
3) I want to be able to charge the device when I choose to and not just everytime I plug it somewhere
4) enabling the car charger as "proper charger" lets the device take up more current and charging faster
5) I've always behaved, with all my Li-Ion powered devices, in a way that I would charge the battery when it got to ~20-30% and not before, reducing the number of times I actually charged it; the definition of "recharge cycle" is not the easiest one here, and "battery university" has an interesting one; but since my behaviour until now has given its good results, I'll just keep doing that
Aterlatus said:
Shorting the data pins also tells a device that it can use up to 1.85A of current (versus the 500mA of USB2). Your car charger will have circuitry (of varying complexity, depending on the model) to drop the 12V from the car to something usable by your phone (5V). If the components in your charger can't handle the 1.85A current, you could land up with a pretty hefty repair bill. Be careful out there....
Edit: Need a worst case scenario to see how bad it could be? In the most basic case there'll just be a resistor in the car charger. That resistor is likely 1/4 watt, 1/2 watt tops. Put 1.85A through it and it can pop, potentially going closed (short) circuit leaving your phone with 12V to deal with. The extra current that comes with that means you fry part of your charging circuit at best, your battery (possibly explosively) somewhere in the middle and the entire phone at worst.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As kilrah stated, 1.85A may be the max specification, yet the HD2 is NOT going to get that much from a recognized charger. The german thread pointed from the second post of the thread is also specific about it, the intook currents are higher, but not that higher... plus I've peeked inside the car lighter charger, and it's got no single resistor Also, the max 2A is useful when you plug several other things to it for charging purposes other than the HD2, and that's why I connect the HD2 to a USB1 hub connected to the carlighter charger
For a briefly useful reference, my iPaq 214 only took max 200mA from the miniusb plug no matter the charger capacity not the charger "nature", so devices do have a regulator, and it would be reasonable to think that a multihundred euros phone has one, and pretty efficient at it
So aside from hacking the USB cable, is there any other way to make the car usb charger act like a car charger? Or I should save my time and just buy an actual car charger, instead of a universal usb one....?
Thanks!
atagent said:
So aside from hacking the USB cable, is there any other way to make the car usb charger act like a car charger? Or I should save my time and just buy an actual car charger, instead of a universal usb one....?
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
solder together the central pins on the charger output port, it's the exact same principle
Even thought hacking a cable is "safer", as you're playing with a ~2USB asset instead of a ~5USD one, and you have to connect a usb cable to the car charger anyway in order to charge the phone
as my wizard is dead the cell antenna connectors are ripped from the pcb the camera is the same 9skating accident) decided to use the remains as the wifi still works to replace on of my aging inwall control panels in my house so what I want to know is can i simply wire 5v power wires in place of the battery or is there another method to provide contant power without a bettery in place?
thanks,
yonu
question if i use say a 3v wall adapter and hook it upto the battery pins like jump starting from a flat battery would this be somewhat safe on the motherboard?
It should work. Just make sure you're providing the board with the correct voltage and current.
Also, another tip: try to post your questions in shorter sentences instead of one long spiel. It makes it easier for us to understand what you're trying to do
I didn't buy the HTC extended battery but one from amazon sold by Karen Deals. Link is below
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0NVM3EA1B2VE9HN3AKMA
Battery
Model No: cs-ht8585xl
Part No: 35h000128-00m, ba s400
Rating: 3.7v 2400mah
Lithium Ion
Induction Unit
Palm Pixi charging back with Palm touchstone charging dock
Operating System
Shubcraft 1.4d
Video:
Images are attached below!
Induction charging has the same charging speed as plugging it into a wall outlet. Very fast!
Sidenote:
I tried using a multimeter with the 3 contacts located under the battery and could not get it to register anything (with and without the charger plugged in). I then tried shooting 5v through it using 6 different combination (2 plugs for 3 contacts) and still couldn't get anything. If anyone knows a way to use these 3 contacts for charging please leave feedback. Also if anyone can find a minature microusb male connection that'd be great.
Well done, it's a really nice mod!
The 2400 mAh is a bit too bulky for me, though the extended uptime must be awesome. I'd even consider something similar, were it not that you're using the microusb to charge. If only you could connect it straight to the battery, would be so much more convenient. It'd still work in for instance car kits and attached to a pc.
Never the less, well done.
Looks great, i would try this myself but i cant stand the bulk of extended batteries and the stock metal back would almost defiantly interfere with the current. Where did you get the decal from?
Angelusz said:
Well done, it's a really nice mod!
The 2400 mAh is a bit too bulky for me, though the extended uptime must be awesome. I'd even consider something similar, were it not that you're using the microusb to charge. If only you could connect it straight to the battery, would be so much more convenient. It'd still work in for instance car kits and attached to a pc.
Never the less, well done.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can't plug in directly to the battery since the battery doesn't have a balancer board on it and it would explode if it were to be overcharged without one.
JJbdoggg said:
Looks great, i would try this myself but i cant stand the bulk of extended batteries and the stock metal back would almost defiantly interfere with the current. Where did you get the decal from?
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Click to collapse
I got the decal in the automotive section of Walmart. It came with 2 big/4small stickers for 7usd
UPDATE: Made the microusb head smaller! Letting liquid electrical tape dry then I'll post pics.
this is a really nice mod. what about the possiblly of going via the nav panel connectors instead of micro usb. this would as far as i know leave the usb port free and also not have the disadvantage of having a usb connector attached which can be easily damged.
Personalyu i wouldnt do this mod as i use my phone to tether a hell of a lot so it seems pointless to me, but being able to just sit your phone down and have it charge is awesome.
Great work!!!!
veda_sticks said:
this is a really nice mod. what about the possiblly of going via the nav panel connectors instead of micro usb. this would as far as i know leave the usb port free and also not have the disadvantage of having a usb connector attached which can be easily damged.
Personalyu i wouldnt do this mod as i use my phone to tether a hell of a lot so it seems pointless to me, but being able to just sit your phone down and have it charge is awesome.
Great work!!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tired the navpanel connections with no success. If anyone has a multimeter please try to do it to theirs (with charger plugged in).
that is really odd....only think i can think of is manye theres something that needs to happen with the middle pin.
nice work i think that decal are very cute indeed!
PPL this is knowed from a long time! This pins are used for example with Car Kit like CU s400: http://www.slashgear.com/htc-hd2-cu-s400-car-kit-gets-priced-detailed-coming-december-1360143/
This car kit is in two versions: like this on 1st photo - use other battery cover which use this "mysterious" pins to run NaviPanel and charging battery and 2nd version with charging via microUSB port.
I hope this helps a bit.
veda_sticks said:
that is really odd....only think i can think of is manye theres something that needs to happen with the middle pin.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This "odd" middle pin you can find in every phone battery too. If you depart any battery you can find there a little electronic circuit.
I think, that this pin is used to metering battery charge, but i can be wrong - im not advanced in electornics.
I'm well aware of the existance of these products but cannot figure out what the three contacts below the batteries are.
Maybe some users having one. In that case he/she can make photos of all connectors or better - check it with multimeter which connector is +, - and this middle one.
Maybe some service manuals can tell something more abt this. I searched for it and i did'nt find nothing useful.
FRANQ_23_PL said:
Maybe some users having one. In that case he/she can make photos of all connectors or better - check it with multimeter which connector is +, - and this middle one.
Maybe some service manuals can tell something more abt this. I searched for it and i did'nt find nothing useful.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also did a search on google and xda but with no luck. I don't think it inputs 5v into the machine since I did shoot 5v into the 3 connectors using different combination.
Hi all,
The contact closest to the center of the phone (looking along the longest axis of the phone) is the +5V, the one furthest from the +5V is the ground, and there's a small voltage on the center contact, positive to ground. These +5V voltage shows up (on my phone) only when the mini-USB charger is plugged in.
I've got the +5V terminal of the Pre plate attached to the +5V contact on the phone, and the other one attached to the GND contact. Inductive charging works at 341ma (as measure by the hardware and read by BattClock) at maximum, which is probably not coincidentally also the limit set on USB charging, at least from my laptop.
I tried hooking the Touchstone up to a Apple ~1" cubed charger, didn't get any charge. I haven't read the USB power specifications, but according to the people at the Palm forums you have to have a USB spec power-capable charger to initialize the Touchstone, and the USB ICs signal this by connecting the two data lines. This can be approximated by clipping a USB cable and twisting the data lines together on the Touchstone side of the cable. This allowed the Apple charger to power the Touchstone.
The HTC stock charger works fine, as does an 800ma Verizon charger I had laying around. I tried hooking the Touchstone up to both a [email protected] switching charger and a 5V 8A supply, the Touchstone still charged at 341ma. I'm guessing this is software, firmware or hardware limited, just like the computer USB connection. I would speculate that if you shorted the middle pin to the ground pin, it might remove this restriction. Or fry your phone, I didn't try it.
There's a guy on the Pre forums who got the Touchstone to consume about 1.02A (http://forums.precentral.net/palm-p...b-adapters-touchstone-dock-2.html#post2020491) so the thing can, apparently transfer some power. I don't know how long it would last at those wattages, but I'm going to read a bit on the USB power spec and see if the 341ma limit can be lifted.
It's kind of nice to use the internal connector, because it leaves the microUSB port open. If anyone has any questions feel free to ask. With the relevant portion of the Pre cover stuck to the back of my phone, there are no wires out of the chassis and the added part doesn't add any considerable bulk to the phone. It protrudes less than the camera.
Anyways, hope this isn't a thread-jack or too long, but I figured it might help anyone that's going to take the time to do this.
Thanks to the community here.
Did you dremel and hotglue the plastic case to the metal case? Interweb highfive from me to you!
Can you post pictures of the inside wiring please?
I did. I basically cut out a square from the HD2 back large enough to hold the coiled length of wire that is needed to allow the back to be removed and articulated. Then I used Super Glue to fix the section of the Pre back containing the inductive coil and circuitry to the HD2 back.
If you're trying to maintain your warranty I might suggest DigiKey part number 478-4687-1-ND, it's from the AVX "MOBO Spring Contact Interconnect Solutions" catalog under battery connectors (I can send you a .pdf copy of the catalog, it's too big to upload to forum). This is a 3mm pitch connector that should mate well with the internal connector - but - I don't have calipers so I would measure before ordering. I just soldered the wires to my HD2.
I'll post some pictures soonish.
And yeah, high five for sure. Thanks for pioneering this. My last phone was retired when the power connector became flaky, so it's nice not to have to worry about the contact wearing out.
Ur mod is on a dutch popular website!
http://tweakers.net/nieuws/69360/mod-maakt-draadloos-laden-mogelijk-op-htc-hd2.html
Right angle micro-usb
I'm looking to do the same thing with my Vibrant and have been searching for a similar connector. I just did a quick google search and found these angled connectors:
http://www.usbfirewire.com/u_microb_cables_angled.html
I tried soldering it your way with no sucess
Soldering pins are as shown
(If viewing vertically with top up)
(leftside of hd2) negative x positive (center of hd2)
bumping an old thread to see if you've taken pictures of the contact points yet.
Sorry it took me so long to reply. Two pictures, the first is the terminal with the wires soldered in, the second shows how I got the cables from the Palm coil/board through the cover. The terminals as you look along the longest axis of the phone with the microUSB plug closest to you are GND, something, and +5v.
So from left to right: 1 GND / 2 ? / 3 +5v.
Hello,
I need help with my new tablet.
Model is Allfine Fine10 Yoy.
Specs:
Rockchip RK3066, 1.6GHz, Cortex A9 dual core; GPU: Mali 400 MP4
Android 4.1
1GB (DDR3)
16GB Nand Flash
10.1 Inch / IPS
Battery: 7800mAh
It is not so old, about 5 months. Few days ago I have left it to charge overnight (it usually takes 4-5 hours to charge so I always charge it overnight) and in the morning it could not turn on. It is dead, no signs of life. I checked maybe it did not charge, so I changed power socket and tried again.
I can not charge it via USB so I can't test that.
There is not sign of life when connected to PC, adb list's no devices.
There is no sign of life after holding power/lock button for a long time and there is not signs after holding restart button.
It came factory rooted, I've never updated/flashed or anything.
I have not noticed any troubles so far, no lags, no freezing, no overheating.
Are you familiar with debug method for this kind of tablet?
What should I do, what test to make?
Can you help me debug this, please.
Thank you.
cheap china tablets are easy to open up. just pry the back cover off carefully and put a volt meter on the battery. its probably dead.
check your power supply first, it might have croaked too.
Would it be possible to run tablet with removed battery, straight off adapter to check is it working?
mrnjau said:
Would it be possible to run tablet with removed battery, straight off adapter to check is it working?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Possibly, at least some part of startup.
Most device processors will start up if they notice power coming from somewhere.
At some point try will try to access the state and source of power.
If they notices that the battery is really dead (that is, the power is only from USB) they will shut down and go into charge-only mode.
It may be more likely that your battery is charged and the processor got wedged somehow.
Disconnect from USB, open the back, disconnect the battery and reconnect it.
Renate NST said:
Possibly, at least some part of startup.
Most device processors will start up if they notice power coming from somewhere.
At some point try will try to access the state and source of power.
If they notices that the battery is really dead (that is, the power is only from USB) they will shut down and go into charge-only mode.
It may be more likely that your battery is charged and the processor got wedged somehow.
Disconnect from USB, open the back, disconnect the battery and reconnect it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for your reply,
I've precedeed as you sugested.
Solder is pretty hard on battery connection, so I unsoldered just one (negative wire, red one) and pluged it to charger and try to start it. I undsolderd just one because I don't want heat to ruin something and I guessed it should be enough to try this.
It still shows no signs of life.
However I've noticed something, when re-soldering red wire I have noticed that there is a spark when wire is near the solder point. So, there is some power in battery.
Any idea how to proceed? I still don't have multimeter to test battery voltage so that will have to wait.
Thanks once again.
Oh, sorry, I thought that the battery was on a connector.
That makes life easier than soldering.
The red wire(s) are always the positive.
The black wire(s) are always the negative (ground).
Any other color wires on a battery are thermistor, id sense or communication.
Yes, finding/borrowing a voltmeter is the next step.
Renate NST said:
Oh, sorry, I thought that the battery was on a connector.
That makes life easier than soldering.
The red wire(s) are always the positive.
The black wire(s) are always the negative (ground).
Any other color wires on a battery are thermistor, id sense or communication.
Yes, finding/borrowing a voltmeter is the next step.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Renate, I hope you still follow this topic.
I'm sorry for 2 months without updates, I've waited for some time for parts from China.
So, what have I done so far...
1) Get multimeter.
2) Test battery.
Battery is designated as 3.7V, however output is 4.15 - 4.16 V.
I've presumed this is fine.
3) Test the charger.
Charger is designated on 5V and 3A. I've tested voltage, it is fine. However ampers dance between 0.5A and 3.5A. I've presumed that charger is faulty, so I've ordered new one. Generic 5V, 3A charger.
4) Put it back together, re-solder the battery and connect charger. Test again.
Voltage on battery connectory is same as before - 4.15V.
After 20min there is no change in battery temperature (source: my fingers), however power jack where new charger is connected is getting warm, but not too warm.
Tried to power it on, no signs of life. Tried holding restart button for forewer, no sign of life.
I'm out of ideas.
3 Amps is a heck of a charger.
Where did that come from? Is it stock?
You have a little round coaxial connector for the charging input on the tablet?
There's no reason that it should be drawing 3 amps or anything getting warm.
The battery is fully charged.
There could be a high resistance in the battery protection module so that it looks charged but can't actually supply any current when called upon.
There's a USB connector on this too?
And nothing appears when you connect a USB cable to it?
I wouldn't expect ADB, but maybe a bootloader.
Run devmgmt.msc when plugging it in and see if anything at all shows up.
Renate NST said:
3 Amps is a heck of a charger.
Where did that come from? Is it stock?
You have a little round coaxial connector for the charging input on the tablet?
There's no reason that it should be drawing 3 amps or anything getting warm.
The battery is fully charged.
There could be a high resistance in the battery protection module so that it looks charged but can't actually supply any current when called upon.
There's a USB connector on this too?
And nothing appears when you connect a USB cable to it?
I wouldn't expect ADB, but maybe a bootloader.
Run devmgmt.msc when plugging it in and see if anything at all shows up.
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Stock charger is 3A, so I bought with indetical specs. My research showed that a lot of chinese tabs use 3A chargers (Ainol Hero, etc..)
Yes, charger connector is 2.5mm "needle".
Some 30min after I posted this area around connector and speaker on motherboard got very very hot, I almost injured myself by touching it. So I've disconnected it.
No, nothing on USB. I've mentioned it in my first post, there are no signs of life on adb. Or "dmesg", which should list something even if device was bricked.
Um, are you sure that the polarity of the supply is correct?
For coaxial plugs the center is usually positive.
If it got that hot you probably have blown something.
Renate NST said:
Um, are you sure that the polarity of the supply is correct?
For coaxial plugs the center is usually positive.
If it got that hot you probably have blown something.
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http://www.amazon.com/2000mah-Adapt...6-6172141?ie=UTF8&refRID=1AED4Q5XRX7QS8JJ91Y9
This is that kind of power connector, 2.5mm. Are we talking about the same thing? Is is possible for this kind of connectors to have non-standard polarity.
Maybe nothing is blown, I would smell that. Maybe there just hi resistance somewhere along the line.
Well, if it's the same charger and it used to charge then the polarity must be ok.
Still, something is not happy.
You should have been able to get it working with just the battery.
The DC input should not be getting hot.
I can only say so much from this distance.
Renate NST said:
Well, if it's the same charger and it used to charge then the polarity must be ok.
Still, something is not happy.
You should have been able to get it working with just the battery.
The DC input should not be getting hot.
I can only say so much from this distance.
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Click to collapse
I can't find any info on ampers and battery. I can't measure any amps coming out of battery, that's strange. I don't know much about this but should not battery put up some ampers?
Yeah, I understand that DC port should not get hot. Only 2 options.
1) Charger (the new one) is putting up too much electricity, to many amps that is.
2) There is something faulty on DC port or around it and causes too much resistance and thus heat.