Related
So I has some free time and the shift was laying around...
Anyway let's get down to business.
The first part of the guide will cover the basic disassembly tips you maybe need in order to open up the casing and maybe upgrade something.
You will need a T6 screwdriver. That's all..but if you want to disassemble the display you will also need a T5.
1 Start by removing the battery, stylus, any card, sim or whatever is attached onto your device.
2 The shift's screws location is shown here.
3 You will need to remove the 3 rubber caps in order to expose the upper screws. First I thought the middle one is a connector to an external antenna. Nope, it's a screw hole.
4 After you're done with the screws you will need to remove the keyboard in order to have acces to another screw underneath it. I've found out that removing the keyboard is a bit tricky. There are no screws holding it, you simply must pull it off. Carefull not to bend it too much and begin with the upper part.
5. Underneath the keyboard you will have to remove this screw and the ribbon like cable that connects the keyboard. In order to do this, pull upwards the white blocker (shown with the green arrow) then pull off the ribbon cable (red arrow).
6. Next comes the first ugly part. You should remove the back cover on your shift in order to expose it's motherboard. Begin by placing your fingernail on the right bottom corner (or the left - you choose) and go along all the cassing in order to separate the 2 pieces of casing. You may hear a lot of ugly noises, cracks and so on... it's pretty normal, just don't abuse the casing too much. By the way, keep the shift in "laptop" mode while you do this.
7. After you remove the back cover you should see something like this.
Carefull with the hard disk. There aren't any screws fixing it to the motherboard. It's simply ...placed there, the back cover will fix it back to it's position. Don't tilt the device or the hard disk may fall and could damage the connector cable (orange ribbon). Around the hard drive you may see a black rubber insertion that protects it from certain shocks.
I've heard some of you guys asking about the dimensions inside and the possibility to replace this hard drive with another one, more thicker. THERE IS SPACE INSIDE TO DO THAT.
The silver corner and the whole sides of the rubber casing is about 2-3 mm thick in the upper portion and just about the same underneath the hard disk. It's kind of soft thus you may insert a larger hard drive without problems.
(Someone asked about a 2.5 drive replacement into the shift -- NO way dude)
8 Next you will need to remove the aluminium radiator and the fan.
You have to remove the following screws:
Note that the far right screw is somewhere deeper and you may need to move the hard-drive a little to get acces to it.
9 After you remove the aluminium heatsync you should see something like this. If you want to remove the motherboard from the chassis you should also remove the marked screw.
You may remove the ram board but carefull. It seems pretty stuck in there you will need to use some force. Here's a photo with mine removed. The metallic piece in the lower part of the picture is the card reader's casing. The card reader is made by Panasonic.
In order to remove the card reader first unscrew it (it's the last screw i was talking about 2 pictures ago). There is a ribbon connecting it to the mainboard.
here is the card reader removed:
and here is it's ribbon connector:
Here is the GPS antenna. YEP it is here. I've seen simillar antennas on bluetooth GPS mouses. This one is properly connected and seems to be powered. HTC had some GPS in mind when it designed the Shift.
10 In order to continue the disassembly you must remove 2 screws located somewhere around this area. They are under the ribbon cable connecting the hard drive to the motherboard.
Be carefull around that area. The shift's motherboard is made of 2 pieces, apparently one for the x86 side (intel processor, GMA950 video, card reader etc) and another for the WM side. The 2 parts are linked via a connector that is secured by those 2 screws. YOU WILL NEED TO BE CAREFULL WHEN REASSEMBLING THE SHIFT. IF THAT CONNECTOR ISN'T ATTACHED PROPERLY YOU'RE IN FOR A LOT OF TROUBLE AHEAD (had mine... trust me).
Here are various components.
RED - Display side connector. This is the only connector linking the 2 sides.
BLUE - Keyboard connector.
GREEN - underneath that area lies the connector that links the 2 parts of the motherboard.
YELLOW - those cables go to the wireless antenna.
Here is the Shift's internal microphone. Like I've said, i didn't know it had one.
The mic is linked to the generic "WM side" of the motherboard. Actually it isn't that simple like wm side - x86 side but as I can see these 2 parts seem to be pretty well diferenciated. One side - x86 - heatsyncs, ram, hard drive... another side - WM, aluminium caps soldered over the chips (like in most phones) microphone, gsm/gps antenna. The WLAN module is also located there.
11 If you remove the motherboard you should see something like this. The arrow marks the position of the antenna block (like the one shown in the FCC pictures).
If you want to remove the display part from the rest of the body you have to remove these screws:
2 more of these are located on the left side. Also remove them. Then the display should come out easily. Carefull not to damage the ribbon connector.
.
12 If you want to dissasemble the display you have to remove the screws from it's back plate. It should also come out easily. You should see something like this:
The hinges that enable your display to tilt are located inside the display block. Here's a photo with one of them :
now some tips about how to do this process if you want to upgrade the shift.
BE CAREFULL. The Shift's motherboard seems pretty delicate. If you want to mess with the hard drive, first disconnect the cable from the HDD's end, then from the motherboard.
If you want to remove the RAM board, pull it off by using 2 fingers, 1 for each side. You will find that the module is firmly attached and woun't come out easily.
I don't recomand you remove or try to mess with that silver foil over the display's back (one of the last pictures). There's a jungle of connectors and wires underneath it and they are cought between 2 layers of that stuff. They can be easily damaged.
When reassembling the shift first start by connecting the small ribbon from the microfone to the motheboard, then connect the display's cable. You will find it more easily to maneuvre if the display is at halfway distance from the main body. Then connect the 2 screws that secure the connector between the 2 portions of the motherboard. ONCE AGAIN, CAREFULL TO HAVE THESE 2 SCREWS FIRMLY ATTACHED. In my first try, the connection wasn't good so when i powered on the shift, it started to make some scarry stuff with it's leds and display. No harm been done but it was pretty scarry. You may then reattach the rest of the screws in backwards order.
If you will want only to upgrade the HDD just stop at "removing the back cover" part. There's nothing more you need to do, you don't need to remove the motherboard and there's pretty much no risks involved. Just be carefull with the ribbon linking the HDD to the motherboard.
I heard some advices about some serials on the chips and such data. Yep, I did photos of these things too. I'll attach them also, tomorrow after I organise my list of findings and notes that I've made with those. I'll post them by category. However I didn't find much, most chips are imposible to read because of the faded markings and other ones are covered by aluminium caps that are soldered over them. The shift looks like a large phone.
Please ask questions if you have. I'll try to help and be specific on those topics.
Bravo!! Good job!!! Can't wait to see the remaining! Now we need someone to try upgrading the HHD. This is getting more interesting!
Excellent, thanks for sharing your findings.
Really good job, man!
Really good job! Thank you for this "step-by-step" guide!
now time to enable the microphone, enable the phone, and look like a complete idiot when u try to hold this thing up to your ear
now u pretty much proved a few things. this thing is pretty much a fully functional wm device. you also shower we were right all along the gps is very very possible for this device. i need to get ltxda one of the gps tools and have him post a lock so you can all see some gps action
Ok people, I'm willing to order a larger HD and even more RAM. I'm going to contact some of my sources on Monday or Tuesday. Any help you guys can provide would be great.
EDIT: Great job on the how-to here!!!
Pawel062 said:
now time to enable the microphone, enable the phone, and look like a complete idiot when u try to hold this thing up to your ear
now u pretty much proved a few things. this thing is pretty much a fully functional wm device. you also shower we were right all along the gps is very very possible for this device. i need to get ltxda one of the gps tools and have him post a lock so you can all see some gps action
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Let's try this on Sunday afternoon bro if you're availabe. I also have a tool that i'm going to try to run, if the family allows, and provide results. Get with me sometime after 3pm. I'm headed to bed now...nite all.
Can you give some information about touchscreen model or manufactur???
I must first study how the protective silver film is attacked on the back of the display. from the fcc photos it seems there are a lot of ribbon connectors between it's twin layers. first time i've dissasembled shift i didn't have enought guts to rip that film in order to expose the internal components. Some connectors in that area caused me a lot of problems (shift's display didn't light up at all or the led's started to go crazy). I'll investigate the problem and there will be a second shift disassembly session in which time i wish to upgrade the hdd also.
So, where might we solder our 32GB SD card to the WM side?
Great job!
Keyboard
Hello,
I tried to pull out the KEyboard by it doesn't work.
What is the Secret to get it out ?
i've sent you an email.
facdemol said:
i've sent you an email.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the Email, I'll try it on Monday and let you know if it work.
Andi
Possible Mistake If You Choose A 2,5 Hhd For Shift Original Hdd.
facdemol said:
I've heard some of you guys asking about the dimensions inside and the possibility to replace this hard drive with another one, more thicker. THERE IS SPACE INSIDE TO DO THAT.
(Someone asked about a 2.5 drive replacement into the shift -- NO way dude)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks to everybody for the help to dissasenble.
Im sorry, It´s clear is not possible.
I'd attach a Picture of my shift with a 1.8 + 2,5" hdd.
---------------------------- -----------------------------
Please, don´t buy ANY HDD 2,5" Noone will fit in.
Is necesary a 1.8" HDD AND the conector of the HDD MUST BE a kind of ZIF connector. (They Called "LIF")
(Neither there are COMPATIBILITY with IDE/ATA/SATA connectors. You will need a ATA 7 conector!!!)
I found this kind HDDs in 80, 100 and 120 GB capacity, easy to buy ad least in Spain.
For Myself I'd ordered a Toshiba-MK1214GAH (120GB), where I Plan to Install a Personal Ed. XP + Vista in a second partition.
Armas.
EDIT: DISREGARD THIS. GO TO POST #3 and #4
Hello guys,
this is my first post so if I'm posting in the wrong section please bear with me.
I recently bought a T5388++ HTC diamond 2 clone. Everything was fine except that I couldn't get a GPS fix. (In the Start -> Settings -> System -> GPS Settings [Satellite State] I only had *red* satellites)
I used the "aluminum foil in the back side" fix, which worked well and I could get a fix.
Being an uneasy person I open the back cover of the cell phone to take a look (beware the headphone cables).
Now here is the good part.
On the left side (near the sd card and where the stylus ends) is probably the GPS antenna.
In the inside, on the board's side, there are two metallic "pins" which (when the cover is closed) touch the back of the antenna. What I did was to add some foil on the back side of the antenna so the contact with the pins would be more tight.
This worked like a charm and the signal is very good. I can even get a decent fix (3-4 *blue* satellites) from inside the house.
Sorry for the lack of pics, if anyone tries it, post a couple pictures and I can show you what I did exactly.
EDIT: DISREGARD THIS. GO TO POST #3 and #4
Pics!!!!
Here are some pics.
First unscrew the four screws, one at each corner of the phone.
Then slice the phone with the help of small flat screwdriver or some other tool. (there are some appropriate notches for that purpose)
**Beware of falling parts**
In the forth and fifth pic you can see where I install the alu foil.
Now you can close the phone and enjoy your newly found GPS!
[I also tried some solder, but the results where almost the same]
Congrats.
However, I can assure you that is not the GPS antenna. Based on the antenna size and shape (its a small inverted F antenna, see the black sticker that is attached to in on top of the stylus case) I am assuming it is either the Bluetooth or WiFi antenna.
The GPS antenna is a bit higher, it is the small pink 'cube' thingy on top of the phone, connected by the micro coax connector.
I had reported before the micro coax is loose in some devices, and I suspect you 'accidentally' fitted it better while opening and closing the phone.
But congrats on your successful operation anyway, being able to open and close the phone and still have a working one is already good, and often, just doing that and ensuring all connectors are clean and properly fit solves a all sorts of problems.
Yeap you are right!
I have read you saying this about loose connectors, so when i first opened the phone I refitted the micro coax.
In my defense I tried to see if this was the antenna. I disconnected it and opened the GPS. Seeing many satellites on the screen (red ones) I concluded that this was not the GPS antenna. (I thought maybe WiFi since I've seen this type of connector on my laptop's wifi)
But having read your post now, I tried a new experiment and found out that the "red" satellites appear, due to the A-GPS (with neither "my" GPS and THE GPS antenna).
Damn...
So could someone change the title to "OLD GPS reception fix"
I had the same problem with GPS. I have risked and have changed orientation GPS of the antenna - GPS perfectly works. BUT now the speaker in which I hear the interlocutor doesn't work for me. At other person after the assembly has broken touch the panel. Therefore it is better not to recommend to open phone.
onde consigo a rom do htc t5388+ idioma PTG ?
magicwolf said:
I had the same problem with GPS. I have risked and have changed orientation GPS of the antenna - GPS perfectly works. BUT now the speaker in which I hear the interlocutor doesn't work for me. At other person after the assembly has broken touch the panel. Therefore it is better not to recommend to open phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You changed the orientation of the antenna. In which way?
When I opened the phone to see if the connector is set right one cable to the speaker was dispatched (very bad soldering). I had to remove the old cable and solder another one because it was not only loose it was broken, too...grrrr...that's very bad.
But I was lucky and did't burned my phone
So, I also recommend to be VERY careful when opening the phone.
BTW: It is much simplier to open the T5388++ than my ASUS P535.
MicAlter said:
You changed the orientation of the antenna. In which way?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In a picture it is visible as I oriented the antenna.
cybermaus said:
Congrats.
However, I can assure you that is not the GPS antenna. Based on the antenna size and shape (its a small inverted F antenna, see the black sticker that is attached to in on top of the stylus case) I am assuming it is either the Bluetooth or WiFi antenna.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you please identify Wifi antenna? Look in attachment:
"C" is GPS antenna.
What is "A" "B" "D" ?
"D" - I see little piece of aluminum foil, but nothing else. Under this foil is place for stylus only and above foil is contact + Vibration Motor.
Somewhere I reed a tip not to hold the hand on the bottom of this phone during the phone call in order not to shield located there GSM antenna, so it means B is probably GSM. Are you sure C is BT and not GPS?
You're right. "C" is 100% GPS antenna. My mistake. (I've changed it now in original post.)
Well, my guess is B (at the bottom) is GSM, based on the fact it is larger (lower frequency) and seems to have two (one for the 850/900 MHz and one for 1800/1900Mhz), which leaves A and D for Blue and WiFi.
PS: Or GSM has two because it has 2 radio's? I wonder if they would share antenna or not, since it is a dual-sim dual standby, I guess the could share)
serak_hd2 WiFi probl.
If you have opened your phone already you can easily discover which one is wifi and BT. Just put a peace of paper on one contact (blocking connection), reassemble (screws are not necessary) and try connect to BT devise (compare to previous performance(distance)) if it is gone (or big performance difference), you blocked BT if not, it was WiFi. After you know which is Wifi, just try to ensure good mechanical contact from antenna till the board (bending contactors little higher or putting allufoil (aluminum can oxidize quickly, so it is not the best solution)). Try not to touch the board, some of the components can be sensible to static discharges. If you have not opened it yet, try to consider ones more the possibility to change it by your seller for new one.
problem with touch screen
t5388 + + touch screen does not work, but the image looks perfectly fine.
How to fix this?
thanks
cybermaus said:
The GPS antenna is a bit higher, it is the small pink 'cube' thingy on top of the phone, connected by the micro coax connector.
I had reported before the micro coax is loose in some devices, and I suspect you 'accidentally' fitted it better while opening and closing the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also had this problem, the connector was loose, now I have very good signal. No aluminium foil needed. Your post saved me!
My recommendation to other people trying to solve this problem: be VERY careful when you open your phone.
After frying my Shift motherboard sometimes last year I had given up any hope of ever getting it to work again. ( http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=701950 ). I tried HTC support to have the motherboard repaired or even to be supplied with a new motherboard without any success. Tried any relevant outlet I could think of that could source a motherboard but still nothing came of it.
I tried searching for anyone selling a Shift at the cheap but the few ebay listings I came across showed that the device cost is still very high. I started a link here hoping somebody with a dead Shift could sell it to me for spares but nothing came of it. To make matters worse the thread was moved to Xda Marketplace and it was lost and burried in the market. ( http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=937322&highlight=shift+motherboard )
But as fate would have it the other day I searched the Marketplace and came across a guy who was selling 2 dead Shifts and high capacity Shift accesories and spares including 2 Gb Ram stick, SSD and higher capacity batteries. But I was a bit late to the party! The sale had been on for almost 2 months and most of the valuable items had already been sold. But I was still in luck as the dead Shifts were still available. I bought one of them as the other was a complete shell even though the motherboards had problem as the power switches had detached and gotten lost for the both of them.
Fortunately an electrical engineer friend of mine was able to remove the power switch from my dead Shift and solder it to the purchased motherboard. It was a delicate procedure but I can confirm that all went well and my Shift is now back to life. Infact even with the replacement motherboard my Shift booted with all the data and settings exactly the way it was before roasting the motherboard.
Just thought of sharing my experience with fellow proud Shift owners here.
I would also wish to thank the seller (TopRowGuy) for a very swift and smooth transaction. Thumbs up buddy. ( http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=961663&highlight=shift+clio )
Regards, Ed
Hi Ed, congratulations for resurrecting your Shift and thank you for posting here the info.
While having the spare Shift and old motherboard at the hand, would you please be so kind to have a look at the circuitry of the socket for external headphonesµphone. My interest is related to the non-working condition of the Shift phone on external headphonesµphone with the custom ROMs.
Therefore could you please check if the socket is simply switching mechanically between internal speakers and external headphones, respectively internal microphone and external microphone (just like in any other audio-tape device) or other circuitry is also involved invalidating the phone function when external devices connected. What else gets disconnected when plugging-in that is influencing the phone? Can the microphone switch be overridden to use only the internal one permanently and let only the headphones be switched?
I'm pretty sure that there are many members here interested in your answers to the above questions. So thank you for contributing to this community!
axelTP2 said:
Hi Ed, congratulations for resurrecting your Shift and thank you for posting here the info.
While having the spare Shift and old motherboard at the hand, would you please be so kind to have a look at the circuitry of the socket for external headphonesµphone. My interest is related to the non-working condition of the Shift phone on external headphonesµphone with the custom ROMs.
Therefore could you please check if the socket is simply switching mechanically between internal speakers and external headphones, respectively internal microphone and external microphone (just like in any other audio-tape device) or other circuitry is also involved invalidating the phone function when external devices connected. What else gets disconnected when plugging-in that is influencing the phone? Can the microphone switch be overridden to use only the internal one permanently and let only the headphones be switched?
I'm pretty sure that there are many members here interested in your answers to the above questions. So thank you for contributing to this community!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you Axel.
Ok I will check the switching mechanism for the mic+headphones for the Shift and report back. If relevant I will also take close-up photos with both the the jack plugged in and plugged out. Since I have the extra motherboards boards (both winmo and Vista) I will try severall things. But if i am not wrong the headphone jack is actually attached to the windows mobile motherboard and not the windows vista motherboard....
I will do the necessary and report back. Of course I am also very much interested in finding a solution for the century old problem of non-working external mic phone side..... I will also snoop around the Memory Card Reader and see what gives ......
Thanks Ed!
My idea is that we all might get lucky if the phone would work on external headphones (i.e. have some privacy), but with the internal microphone (you have to speak-up loud anyway).
I expect that, just like in any classical audio set, the switching circuitry on the audio out side gets the signal out of an audio stereo IC, which is led further to the ext phones socket and involves nothing more than the connection wires, socket, loudspeakers and earphones. If so, that means that we are OK on the earphones side. Of course this is an assumption and means that there are no active speakers or anything of the kind linking the audio outputy to any input of the mciroprocessor.
I also looked at 4 contacts 3.15mm coax plug of the HTC earphones and microphone and the contacts for the limitation comes from the microphone circuitry, this can be arranged by disconnecting the internal microphone from the ext socket and leaving it connected all the time.
My guess is that the internal microphone is hardwired directly to the socket and is not going trough the motherboard PCB (printed circuit board), in which case can be desoldered from the socket and resoldered to the audio in signal path (also coming from the socket). With this mod inserting the plug will have no influence any more on the microphone path.
In reality things can be more complicated since the same ext socket is serving both WinMob side and Vista side. I wonder if there is a single audio out IC or just the two processors deliver in paralel to the same load (speakers).
Looking forward to your findings.
Axel,
I had a long and hard look at the mic and audio jack/port and I am afraid there is nothing much to gain from a physical examinations of those items. To start with the audio port is covered with a black plastic on the outside so you cant really see what is going on inside when you insert the jack.
The audio port is connected to the phone mobo and not the Vista mobo. The phone motherboard is not spoilt and hence I would not want to strip things from it as it can come in handy at a future date. The internal mic is also attached to the phone motherboard through a printed cable. Problem is without first booting the Vista Bios the phone side does also not boot. I am trying to see if there is a way I might get the phone side to boot. If I can succeed that way I would then disconnect the mic from the phone motherboard and see whether the wired mic can become active as you have suggested.
But all this I am only doing with the dead Shift because of course I cant touch the recently resurrected Shift. I wonder if there is absolutely any way of being able to boot the winmo side without first pressing the power button (attached to Vista mobo) which is missing from the motherboard that I am playing with??? If that was to be possible I could try various things with the mobile powered on and probably even be able to use the mobile side ad forget about Vista on the cannibalized Shift?
Here are some photos of the audio jack port and the mic connection area. Sorry the images are not great as i took them at night and in low light environment.... These are self-explanatory but the long and short of it as per your inquiry is that it is possible to disconnect the internal mic from the motherboard. As to how the wired mic would behave when the internal mic is disconnected is subject to real tests with a working Shift. As to whether you can solder these around I will leave that to those of us who are more technically oriented.......
PlayStation said:
After frying my Shift motherboard sometimes last year I had given up any hope of ever getting it to work again. ( http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=701950 ). I tried HTC support to have the motherboard repaired or even to be supplied with a new motherboard without any success. Tried any relevant outlet I could think of that could source a motherboard but still nothing came of it.
I tried searching for anyone selling a Shift at the cheap but the few ebay listings I came across showed that the device cost is still very high. I started a link here hoping somebody with a dead Shift could sell it to me for spares but nothing came of it. To make matters worse the thread was moved to Xda Marketplace and it was lost and burried in the market. ( http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=937322&highlight=shift+motherboard )
But as fate would have it the other day I searched the Marketplace and came across a guy who was selling 2 dead Shifts and high capacity Shift accesories and spares including 2 Gb Ram stick, SSD and higher capacity batteries. But I was a bit late to the party! The sale had been on for almost 2 months and most of the valuable items had already been sold. But I was still in luck as the dead Shifts were still available. I bought one of them as the other was a complete shell even though the motherboards had problem as the power switches had detached and gotten lost for the both of them.
Fortunately an electrical engineer friend of mine was able to remove the power switch from my dead Shift and solder it to the purchased motherboard. It was a delicate procedure but I can confirm that all went well and my Shift is now back to life. Infact even with the replacement motherboard my Shift booted with all the data and settings exactly the way it was before roasting the motherboard.
Just thought of sharing my experience with fellow proud Shift owners here.
I would also wish to thank the seller (TopRowGuy) for a very swift and smooth transaction. Thumbs up buddy. ( http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=961663&highlight=shift+clio )
Regards, Ed
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Ed
I'd read your post. Also, I have som problem about my Shift
the conditions are:
1. it can not be turn on even vista or snapvue
2. When I switch on the power button, only the green light was on at the bottom of LCD screen.
3. I can hear the fan turn on but nothing happened
4. When I use the charger, the battery can be charged and finished it.
Do you think that the mother board have something wrong?
The HTC care center want me to change the board but it cost a lots.
Regards,
Vincent
wangwun said:
Hi Ed
I'd read your post. Also, I have som problem about my Shift
the conditions are:
1. it can not be turn on even vista or snapvue
2. When I switch on the power button, only the green light was on at the bottom of LCD screen.
3. I can hear the fan turn on but nothing happened
4. When I use the charger, the battery can be charged and finished it.
Do you think that the mother board have something wrong?
The HTC care center want me to change the board but it cost a lots.
Regards,
Vincent
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If the green light is turning on I think yours is a software problem. What about the mobile side? Does it come on when you press the button for switching between the Snapvue and Vista? Try that with the green light on and then we can try troubleshooting from there.....
In the meantime try press FN+F10 immediately the green light comes on and see what happens.....
PlayStation said:
But all this I am only doing with the dead Shift because of course I cant touch the recently resurrected Shift. I wonder if there is absolutely any way of being able to boot the winmo side without first pressing the power button (attached to Vista mobo) which is missing from the motherboard that I am playing with??? If that was to be possible I could try various things with the mobile powered on and probably even be able to use the mobile side ad forget about Vista on the cannibalized Shift?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Ed, thank you very much for your endeavour. Of course I didn't expect to work in this experiment with the ressurected Shift, but only with the spare one.
What kind of a switch is the power switch, is it a single section switch or with multiple sections, is it a bistable or a tip-switch. I expect that it is a single section tip switch which is connecting 2 contacts on the pcb only for a short while while you press on it. If this is correct you may connect the 2 contacts with a jumper-wire just to start-up the Shift. It is true that the Vista part will start first, but I don't see a big draw back in that.
PlayStation said:
Here are some photos of the audio jack port and the mic connection area. Sorry the images are not great as i took them at night and in low light environment.... These are self-explanatory but the long and short of it as per your inquiry is that it is possible to disconnect the internal mic from the motherboard. As to how the wired mic would behave when the internal mic is disconnected is subject to real tests with a working Shift. As to whether you can solder these around I will leave that to those of us who are more technically oriented.......
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks again for the pictures, maybe some other time you'll have the opportunity to come up with more clear ones.
To get some privacy while using the phone my intention was to switch only the speakers on the headphones, but still using the internal microphone of the Shift. That would require some small modifications to the jack-port.
I didn't get it exactly how many motherboards are there inside the Shift? Are there in 3 pcs, i.e. Vista mb, Winmo mb and phone mb, is that right?
Hi Axel,
The Shift has 2 motherboards - Mobile and Windows Vista. But both are connected where the 2 boards get into contact with each other through connectors on each side. There are no cables/wires involved but just direct connectors between the 2 motherboards where they come into contact with each other.
Apparently most of the connections take place inside the printed circuit boards so you cant tell which connection goes where. But of interest is that both the mic and the audio jack are all connected to the phone motherboard yet they dont work in the mobile side. So either these have been physically disconnected within the circuit board or it could be a software issue. Remember how we could not use GPS or phone functions until the great rom breakthrough by the likes of Thaihugo and Cmonex....? I still believe that the issue of wired mic not being active is a software issue.
But the SD Card is a different story as this is attached to the Vista motherboard. It is very likely that there is no physical connection between the Sd card and the mobile motherboard. Well I might be entirely wrong here as come to think of it there is a solution about accessing SD card from the windows side but Vista has to be on...... Will look for that thread and read some more and see how the connection is established.
By the way I did home-made switch for the dead shift's motherboard. The Shift was able to power up and boot but it appears that the Lcd cable is dead (or perhaps the lcd screen itself is dead but most likely the problem is with the cable). I was able to connect the Shift to the Tv through a Vga cable. But I could not do much with it as the Vista software appears to be corrupt. Further the HDD connection cable too is not in very good shape. I hope to get the Hdd cable to be able to do more tests on this Shift using the Tv as the external monitor.
This other Shift will be the official guinea pig and I am willing to make various tests with it as soon as I get a working Hdd cable and re-install windows. However there is a big limitation to this too because apparently the windows mobile side does not show in the external monitor. In other words even if you switch to the mobile side using the Shift button the external screen does not change and is only active for Vista......
But I can tell the snapvue side is active as I was able to call the sim card number inside the Shift I was using for tests.... My intention is simply to use this Shift with my Tv for internet connection and as a basic pc in the living room. I confirmed that the internet connection to the Vista side is active even without having any access to the windows mobile screen. I made these tests with the Hdd cable from my good Shift for a few minutes and thus did not make extensive tests.
So guys I will get back to you with more tests once I get a working Hdd cable which I may have to import from China (parts4repair.com). I might then end up with 1 Shift and half a Shift......
wangwun said:
Hi Ed
I'd read your post. Also, I have som problem about my Shift
the conditions are:
1. it can not be turn on even vista or snapvue
2. When I switch on the power button, only the green light was on at the bottom of LCD screen.
3. I can hear the fan turn on but nothing happened
4. When I use the charger, the battery can be charged and finished it.
Do you think that the mother board have something wrong?
The HTC care center want me to change the board but it cost a lots.
Regards,
Vincent
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
After playing with my other Shift as described above I believe your problem is not the motherboard since the power light is coming on and the fan is coming on when you power your device. So chances are that your Lcd screen is not getting any signal from your Shift. Yours could be a simple problem with a disconnected Lcd flex cable or problems with the lcd screen or damaged lcd flex cable. Easiest test for you is to get Vga cable and test your Shift using an external computer monitor or tv that supports Vga in cable..... Hope this helps.
Thanks PlayStation, great post, thank you for your endeavour!!! Looking forward for further details.
Here is the Samsung Galaxy S3 (GT-I9300) Service Manual.
Please take a moment to read the notes and issues about this manual in this post.
For some reason Google didn't pick up that post, so I had to re-post here...
Now, if you are brave and happen to have a GT-I9300, you can still help us by posting some
internal pictures, to verify some issues in the manual. If they are good,
some of them will eventually become part of the SGS3 Hack-Pack.
Thanks and Enjoy!
I will be opening up the phone in the next few days due to me managing to damage the sim card holder section(not holding sim card) So at present i have got somthing putting pressure to keep sim card in place. I have a new sim card holder on order so when it arrives i will pull phone apart and take some pictures.
If you have any advice for me before attempting this please let me know via pm
Do you have any experience in this kind of electronics? I mean, are you planning to replace and solder the SIM card holder by yourself?
If you have not done this type of soldering before, I do not recommend it.
If you do decide to do it on your own, make sure:
You are working on a clean workspace
You are well grounded and not wearing wool clothes mixed with synthetic materials to avoid any ESD.
Have the right tools for the job.(Temp controlled SMD soldering iron + flux and acid-free lead-free SMD solder etc.)
A very steady hand with good eyes!
As for the pictures, keep the environment as bright as possible, preferably daylight. Try to keep your PCB on a bright or neutral background. (Bright cardboard is usually good.) Inspect your pictures and make sure you can read the text on the smallest chips. (The big ones we already know about, its the smaller ones that are difficult to navigate around.) Make sure the pictures are well focused.
Good Luck!
From looking at the pictures I was hoping I don't have to solder the sim card slot in. It looks easily replaceable as it looks like it's just a connector and not soldered
Replaced the sim holder. My camera wasn't good enough to get focus of the smaller chips however it is very very easy to take phone apart. And I guess Samsung are expecting issues with sim slot so they have fixed it using one screw and connected to board using a pull off connecter.
Just in case anyone else is interested the sim holder/sd holder cost me £20, delivered.
E:V:A said:
Here is the Samsung Galaxy S3 (GT-I9300) Service Manual.
Please take a moment to read the notes and issues about this manual in this post.
For some reason Google didn't pick up that post, so I had to re-post here...
Now, if you are brave and happen to have a GT-I9300, you can still help us by posting some
internal pictures, to verify some issues in the manual. If they are good,
some of them will eventually become part of the SGS3 Hack-Pack.
Thanks and Enjoy!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
amazing !!!
Hi guys,
Here is my contribution to da community, hope so it helps.
h t t p s : / / docs . google . com/open?id=0B9lrf7AWQW7ETjRZTkFXb1luN0E
On image 20120616_150200.jpg you can see the region jumpers. The images are of a live demo unit - everything works besides the GSM/3G data. Haven't tested to see if the NFC is working.
The real unit has some more antenna connector. The demo one does not have PBA /printed board antenna/ the ANT102 and ANT103 as well as the capacitors and the coils u may seen them market in red cycles (ANT102, ANT103, C102, C191, L103, L102) there is no room on the MOBO for C192 /or at least I can't find its place/.
Thanks.
^^ Here is the link for above! (Thanks!)
Hi again,
I can confirm that the NFC is working on the live demo unites. According to the original S3 user manual the NFC antennas are build into the battery back.
I still can't figure out what is the "W2" antenna connector for. The Live demo unit has no connector soldered to the motherboard and also lacks the small PCB antenna with the white coaxial cable. Some ppl claim that the W2 is for WiFi antenna, but it is not, because I got great WiFi connectivity tho the lack of such PCB antenna. I can only confirm the WiFi working fine, under "G" type of WiFi networks. The openWRT firmware of my current router has known bug and I can't bring up "N" standard in air, to check if the PCB antenna is for "N" type of WiFi networks.
I also did some testing to see if the PCB is for GLONASS or GPS, and it seams that this PCB antenna with the white coaxial cable is not for any of these services. That's why I think it might be for wifi "N" or 3G data/networks. Donno if the 802.11n requires a separate antenna.
^^ Please post a link to a specific image, that clearly show the connector(s) you're talking about.
Hi I have a live demo unit to, so I think I can help about this =).
I can't show you the mainboard back because I' m new user... xD
I don't really know what you mean with NFC (sorry, I'm not really good with english)
But
W1 is a GSM external antenna conection
W2 is a wifi external antenna conection
And the white wired antenna is for wifi to.
After thinking a lot, if you conect an antenna to the GSM antenna conection (external or the internal lacked in Demo unit) you probably can't use phone function.
That function probably was crippled by software or because demo units don´t have imei maybe o.o.
The only thing I need to try is to connect a microsim to the phone
No one has any insights ???
johnny21a said:
No one has any insights ???
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have sgs3, international version on my workbench right now.
Don´t have any clue what could I share, so - if there is anything specific -- let me know. I will do my best..
BR
Samsung galaxy S3 i747
i have a Galaxy S3 SGH-i747m that has been water damaged and given to me so i could try and fix it. I can take pretty much any pictures you want, have openned the phone a couple times now to try and clean it up.
My problem is that the works well, it starts up, unlock the screen, plays sound...but the screen is off. Now at first when i was "playing" with it the screen would flicker on and off to show me the battery charging logo when it was plugged in. I've cleaned the phone and all flex connectors with some products. the phone still turns on and works but my screen is off. It detects the touch since i can unlock the screen ( it plays the water sound when i slide my finger on the screen) and speaker works when i boot it up (little booting sounds).
I was thinking there might be a small fuse on board for the screen backlight and that could be blown. I was also thinking my battery might be damaged and is not giving the phone the right voltage to the right connectors or something so i have ordered a new battery on ebay (under 4$) and am waiting for it.
Anyone has an idea to some specific things i should be looking for ? only thing haven't disassemble is the digitizer from the framebecause doing so would surely break the glass. It bums me up a bit since there are some electronics behind the frame that could have been damaged by the water that i couldn't see.
Bigred065 said:
i have a Galaxy S3 SGH-i747m that has been water damaged and given to me so i could try and fix it. I can take pretty much any pictures you want, have openned the phone a couple times now to try and clean it up.
My problem is that the works well, it starts up, unlock the screen, plays sound...but the screen is off. Now at first when i was "playing" with it the screen would flicker on and off to show me the battery charging logo when it was plugged in. I've cleaned the phone and all flex connectors with some products. the phone still turns on and works but my screen is off. It detects the touch since i can unlock the screen ( it plays the water sound when i slide my finger on the screen) and speaker works when i boot it up (little booting sounds).
I was thinking there might be a small fuse on board for the screen backlight and that could be blown. I was also thinking my battery might be damaged and is not giving the phone the right voltage to the right connectors or something so i have ordered a new battery on ebay (under 4$) and am waiting for it.
Anyone has an idea to some specific things i should be looking for ? only thing haven't disassemble is the digitizer from the framebecause doing so would surely break the glass. It bums me up a bit since there are some electronics behind the frame that could have been damaged by the water that i couldn't see.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
check if you can see anything on the screen, use some extra light, torch for example.
if so - then its more likely that the LEDs in the display panel are damaged, since it flickered, as you said. also could be the driver circuit for backlight. Clean connectors for display panel, use magnifier, or better microscope to check for corrosion. use IPA to clean or scrape off the corrosion.
also - maybe this is not the right place to discuss this.
GL
Redrigon said:
Hi I have a live demo unit to, so I think I can help about this =).
I can't show you the mainboard back because I' m new user... xD
I don't really know what you mean with NFC (sorry, I'm not really good with english)
But
W1 is a GSM external antenna conection
W2 is a wifi external antenna conection
And the white wired antenna is for wifi to.
After thinking a lot, if you conect an antenna to the GSM antenna conection (external or the internal lacked in Demo unit) you probably can't use phone function.
That function probably was crippled by software or because demo units don´t have imei maybe o.o.
The only thing I need to try is to connect a microsim to the phone
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't have he white antenna coaxial cable neigh the PCB antenna board that this cable is connected to but I have WiFi.
Could it be for WiFi N(150Mbps)?
Watter damage, LCD working/not working?
Bigred065 said:
i have a Galaxy S3 SGH-i747m that has been water damaged and given to me so i could try and fix it. I can take pretty much any pictures you want, have openned the phone a couple times now to try and clean it up.
My problem is that the works well, it starts up, unlock the screen, plays sound...but the screen is off. Now at first when i was "playing" with it the screen would flicker on and off to show me the battery charging logo when it was plugged in. I've cleaned the phone and all flex connectors with some products. the phone still turns on and works but my screen is off. It detects the touch since i can unlock the screen ( it plays the water sound when i slide my finger on the screen) and speaker works when i boot it up (little booting sounds).
I was thinking there might be a small fuse on board for the screen backlight and that could be blown. I was also thinking my battery might be damaged and is not giving the phone the right voltage to the right connectors or something so i have ordered a new battery on ebay (under 4$) and am waiting for it.
Anyone has an idea to some specific things i should be looking for ? only thing haven't disassemble is the digitizer from the framebecause doing so would surely break the glass. It bums me up a bit since there are some electronics behind the frame that could have been damaged by the water that i couldn't see.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have identical symptoms with my i9300.
1. Water damaged
2. Dried in a can of rice etc over several days
3. Cleaned under sim card, lots of debris there, looked scorched, I cleaned with alcohol and a brush in an ESD protected environment.
4. Re assembled, the display briefly flashed on, and showed the expected "Battery is low, an d No Sim Card" then powered off.
5. Now after charging the battery and emplacing my sim card, I hear the proper musical tones when the phone boots but the screen doesn't light.
Where you able to get the screen working?
I am going to try a more throughal cleaning and I will try viewing the LCD under a more power full light.
I too worry that just getting the LCD screen replaced might not work; the screen may be fine but the mother board LCD power supply might be at fault...
I will keep you posted and keep an eye on this forum to find out how to fix this.
This thread has served its main purpose.
OT discussions are prevalent.
Thread Closed!
Hello, can anyone help me? It has happened that I decided to open my Nvidia Shield TV 2017 (16 GB), and it is the recent revision that comes with Wi Fi antenna module, and the green power LED comes on the PCB. The case is that when trying to remove the mini U.FL wi fi connector, this has been detached with the base section that goes on the PCB, and with a fragment of the "track" of the PCB, I have ruined the wi fi a lot and bluetooth now! The signal it picks up on both frequencies is now weak, for this reason I am looking for someone to provide me with excellent quality photos of that connector area, but do not disconnect it! since it is a welding nothing strong and it will not happen to them as it happened to me.
In short, I need to visualize and distinguish which "signal line" and to be able to make small solders with cables in order to re-establish the signal of the internal antenna.
In advance, thanks!
P.S. I have removed these connectors in many devices, from laptops, and even in smartphones, and it is the first time that this type of unfortunate incident has happened to me.
Hi, may I ask why you removed the cable in the first place? I was considering the same, to add a even better antenna. Now reading this I have reconsidered. But knowing Nvidia might have done such a bad soldering job maybe on my unit too isn't very comforting :/ I also can imagine this has a negative effect on signal strength...
Idk if the pics are still of use for you, here are some I took for geforce forum/reddit: https://imgur.com/a/V0CgrMG
Let me know I you need more, maybe closeup of the connector.