Do they make a stand alone 8525 (hermes) battery charger? Perhaps I could order a spare battery and wall charger for it?
Issue I have is that with my home wall charger, the connector at the bottom appears loose. I have to hold it a certain way for the orange charge light to work. If I touch it while plugged in, the charging light blinks to orange to off and back randomly (like a very loose connection).
At work my USB cable doesn't do this, but I took a pair of plyers and squeezed the cable connector so that there would be a tighter fit. I've seen other people's StarTrek(3125) completely break off the port inside the phone, so in case that would happen to me I was hoping for a backup solution for at least charging the battery. I can still sync or transfer files with WiFi, but yeah it would suck if the USB connector inside the Hermes broke off like it does on the StarTrek flip smartphones.
While I have not tried one there are some available. Here is a link to a place that advertises one: http://www.cellphoneshop.net/debachwipoco3.html
I'm starting to have real problems with my USB plug. At first it would drop charger plugs when it was on the wall, so I put it upside down. But now I can't connect to the PC all the time either. I have to jiggle the plug a bit or even breathe down in it (the moist makes the connection better). Has anybody else had that problem and fixed it in any way? I suppose the plug is soldered on in such a way that it has to go to a workshop, right?
i strongly suggest you to send it for repair or resolder the base of the connection(this is user servicable provided you have some soldering skills) so it doesnt wiggle. i'd probly even suggest to hotglue the plug but before you do so make sure the plug is sitted properly and it does sync
the same thing happened to me and with a bit of jiggle the plug broke off and now its permenently damaged(ie it will never sync via USB again) so far with self repair i only manage to make it charge
i got no idea how to reattach a 10pin mini USB plug to my board and some of the copper tracks looks damaged which means if i send it to the shops, its a $500 repair and a board swap
Totally annihalted the top connector on this trying to strip it down and dry it out after spilling water on it whilst asleep
Any ideas where I can get a new one from in the UK? a good google has turned up nothing
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_n...antenna&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3286.c0.m270.l1313
Its the same type of cable.
hth
Attention do this at our own risk as it may damage our phone.
My used samsung galaxy pocket-neo was becoming impossible to charge causing me to break the adapter cables with constant wiggling and balancing acts to get it to work. I took it apart and the micro usb socket looked like an extremely difficult soldering job to replace.
The solution I am using for more than a month with no adverse effects is to cut the plug off and strip the 2 power wires at one end of an old usb cable. There are 4 different coloured wires, red, black, green and white. The green and white wires transmit data, whilst the red and black are the power lines. Red is positive, Black is negative. The sleeve of the cable has a metal mesh which is not necessary for my purposes so I electrical taped it back onto the cable.
The next step is to remove the battery of the phone: I have only done this on phones with removeable batteries. The ones I have used have three terminals; one is plus and one minus, the middle one is for a thermistor in the internal of the battery so that it doesn't overheat. Check the plus and minus with a tester to be sure and look at the way it mounts into the phone. The corresponding terminals in the phone are where I connect the wires.
Now here is the complicated part, - or negative(black) goes to the one negative copper pin in the back of the phone. The positive +(red) wire however needs to bridge the other two pins for reasons that I would like to find out. The white and green wire got taped up seperately to avoid short circuits and I replaced the battery to hold the wires firmly in place and closed the back of the phone. Plug the phone into a charger or external power pack (DC 5v) and it will work fine with no overheating, I suggest this be monitored for a while as it may vary with other hardware.
There may be better ways to do this, as far as I can tell in my case I am not actually charging the battery, instead the phone is running directly from the external power source. The strange thing is that the software(CM11) battery icon slowly discharges and after about 10 hours tells me I need to charge the battery but never turns off and when I restart it is immediately back up to full.
I have tested with a normal cable and the micro usb is still working even though it is still only working when I constantly wiggle the cable, I have cleaned it and as far as I can see its not going to ever work properly.
It would be good to know why the battery does not chargewhen using this method. I imagine it has to do with the internal workings of the phone that control the charging, discharging and battery temperature.
Making the old hardware live longer.
Replacing the micro usb is doable with a hot air gun a pair of tweezers, a clunky spring loaded solder sucker, a flux pen and two pairs of 3.5 x magnification reading glasses. You dont need any fancy rework station or microscope, assuming you have steady hands, reasonably good eyesight, and some soldering experience. I just tried this myself yesterday and fixed and Ace 3 and two S3 mini boards from my junk pile, and while it was a little tricky, it didn't require any brain surgery skills, just care, patience and some previous smd soldering experience.
Proceed as follows, mask off all of the surrounding components with kapton tape, apply lots of flux from your flux pen, then heat the plug carefully, pointing the hot air across the plug and away from the rest of the board. Grab the (hot) metal can of the USB plug with the tweezers, and gently lift it. Only remove the plug when all the solder is melted, and it feels loose, to avoid pulling off any tracks. Remove those tracks, and the phone is for the bin. Next, clear any holes that are required to mount the new plug, take care at this stage, as it is imperative that the replacement plug sits flush on the board otherwise the pins on the plug, wont touch the pads on the board, and worse still, you wont get the case back on at the end of the process.
To fit the new socket, clean the pads... no really clean them.... now make sure they are clean, and then flux them and tin them. Fit the new plug, and check that it sits flush to the board. Tack down one metal lug only on the can of the new plug. Check again that the pins are lined up, and carefully drag solder them. Check for shorts. Check again... clean the pads and check again. If you are happy, tack down the remaining three lugs, make sure they are flush and that there are no blobs of solder on the tops of them. Clean the board again. Test... Profit
Total time including additional swearing, re-cleaning... re-re-cleaning and re-fitting.. about 30 minutes and two strong coffees.
The replacement USB plugs are readily available on ebay typically around the £2 ($3) mark, but there are several different styles, and they are different, so make sure you use the correct one for your board.
Now back to your question... why does your battery not charge when you tack the wires to it... simple... it is trying its best not to explode. The USB port provides 5V, but the battery needs between 2.8 and 4.2 vots.. depending on its current state of charge, and this is what the charge controller chip within the phone provides. Anything else and the protection circuit kicks in.
I suggest if you don't fancy repairing the USB plug yourself, you get one of those cheap "universal" usb phone chargers from China, they cost about the same as the replacement USB plug, but are (marginally) less likely to blow up your battery.
itsthatidiotagain said:
Now back to your question... why does your battery not charge when you tack the wires to it... simple... it is trying its best not to explode. The USB port provides 5V, but the battery needs between 2.8 and 4.2 vots.. depending on its current state of charge, and this is what the charge controller chip within the phone provides. Anything else and the protection circuit kicks in.
I suggest if you don't fancy repairing the USB plug yourself, you get one of those cheap "universal" usb phone chargers from China, they cost about the same as the replacement USB plug, but are (marginally) less likely to blow up your battery.
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Good description of the soldering job, the samsung pocket neo is very small but I look forward to having a go at fixing it properly one day, I dont yet have a magnifying glass or solder sucker, but I want to get them. Without these tools the job would be near impossible.
Little update: the phone is charging, I have disconected it and it holds its charge nicely, the internal software just doesn't register the trickle charge it is recieving, I have loads of old chargers and new usb cables and my old second hand phones micro usb port is way too damaged to work anymore with any charger. I use it as a modem principally, so it is connected every day and providing wifi to multiple devices and has no problems with over heating. Now nearly two months have passed and it works fine. Using this method it is possible to completely remove the battery as well. The phone is running directly off the 5 volt power with no ill effects.
It would be convienient to connect it directly to a pc in usb debug mode occasionally, and this is a very good reason for eventually fixing the usb plug.:good:
Occasionally since I got the phoone I've noticed that the audiobooks I've listened to have suddenly stopped, and prompting me to press play again; it always seemed to happen when I had a hand in my pocket, so I probably just assumed I had touched the screen or something. It was annoying, but I just continued on.
Then late last week after it happened while I was at my desktop and just moving the phone, I investigated a bit more closely.
I found that I could wiggled the headphone USB dongle, and the fit was not as solid as you'd expect (of course, I hadn't really checked this earlier, just putting in and taking out USB connectors up to this point). As I wiggled it, the audio would stop as if my headphones were disconnected and reconnected. Which must've been what had happened before.
Then I checked with my charging cord. Same kind of fit, I could wiggle the connector a few degrees. Enough for me to raise some concern about it being a faulty USB port, or it having somehow gotten loose in the shell.
This is probably RMA worthy, I'm guessing. The question is what will OP do? Replace the whole phone? Repair it (repair what exactly, I'm wondering)? I've not dealt with their support before, and I couldn't really find any suitable thing under their repair service categories.
Could some people check how snug their USB connector fit is and report back to me, so I could find out if this isn't how it's supposed to be?
First check your USB port for lint. I typically use a needle to clean mine out (Don't short any of the pins if using a metal needle). Lint will prevent the cable from fully seating and cause it to feel loose.
OhioYJ said:
First check your USB port for lint. I typically use a needle to clean mine out (Don't short any of the pins if using a metal needle). Lint will prevent the cable from fully seating and cause it to feel loose.
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The USB port is totally clean. Couldn't even spot any dust particles under a bright light.
I know the 3.5mm headphone jack isn't technically rated for as many cycles as a USB C connector but I still feel it held up to abuse like being in a pocket better than any type of USB connector.