Cingular 8525 won't turn on - 8525, TyTN, MDA Vario II, JasJam General

I have a Cingular 8525 and it just recently turned off and will not turn back on. I've removed both the battery and the sim and let it sit for a while, put them back in and it still won't turn on. It was cabled to my laptop at the time. No indicator lights at the top turn on at all, even with the wall charger/adapter plugged into it. I've already requested a warranty replacement from Cingular, but apparently they are only sending the phone and not the battery. The person I spoke with said I could go to a Cingular corporate store and have them order me a new battery (none of them in my area have the battery in stock).
Any suggestions? Can someone confirm that the phone will turn on with the battery out and the phone plugged into the wall charger? Can somebody turn off their phone and plug it into the adapter with the phone off and tell me if any lights are lit? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Hi
With no battery in the phone will not operate at all. There should be a RED Led lit up to indicate that the device is failing to charge.
Mike

I know this thread is old, but hopefully someone can help. My 8525 stopped working as of recently. When I plug it up to the charger, there is a red LED..does this mean my battery is junk? or the phone

if there's no battery and you connect the charger, a red light will show......so most likely it would be your battery that's junk. check your battery connections first.

Same problem!
The phone was connected to my computer and was in the middle of replying to a text message when the phone rang. When I went to answer the phone froze and wouldn't respond. I hit the soft rest button and it stayed frozen. I took the battery out and then I got nothing. Won't turn back on. Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance for your help.

MrWho said:
The phone was connected to my computer and was in the middle of replying to a text message when the phone rang. When I went to answer the phone froze and wouldn't respond. I hit the soft rest button and it stayed frozen. I took the battery out and then I got nothing. Won't turn back on. Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you get no LEDs showing when you connect the charger, then the fuze may be blown.
Fuse location
http://www.mikechannon.net/PDF%20Manuals/Hermes%20Fuse%20Location.pdf
Mike

Fixed
I did a search for the fuse placement on the 8525 and found several screen shoots. I used a pair of tweezers to bridge the gap to see if it was the fuse or not. It worked!!
Replacing a fuse this size on a MB that small is almost impossible for the average person. What I did was place a small amount of solder across the fuse. Everything looks good so far. Of course I will now place the phone inside a sauce pan and leave it on top of the stove top to recharge until I find one on eBay with a broken LCD!
Thanks for the heads up. I'm was hoping for a "normal" fix for this problem. I very grateful for this site and all the users who lend a helping hand.
Cheers, David

My 8525 (HTC Hermes 100) just quit working
Last night I had no problems used the phone while out...got home and my phone just wouldn't respond. No soft reset, no taking out the battery, no charging via wall or by computer worked. No light display to indicate it was charging, or battery was low I tried all these possibilities.
This phone has never touched the ground. (I just got it 2 wks. ago. Its my second HTC Hermes, never had a problem with the other.) the power was at 50 percent so it wasn't dead even...
The phone is unlocked, I don't use ATT, even though this phone is in immaculate condition, it is used, I bought it from someone else who barely used it, so no warranty.
I have taken my other Hermes apart to fix the ribbon cable and screen...I would hate to have to do the same with this phone it still has the void stickers in place.
Bleh, look I love this phone, and if anyone has any suggestions I welcome them as I know this thread is old. I would hate to junk a phone that I can just fix...

I believe u need a charger that could charge the battery outside of phone then when finished put back in battery and see if it turns on u may need a multimeter to test batterys DC volts to see if is below 3.2 volts

Okay - first sorry for opening this deadish thread. But figured better than opening up a new one.
My phone is doing the same thing - it just quit working randomly. Went online to get an address to our next destination. Got there, and picked up phone to make a call - and it wont turn on.
i noticed a capacitor looking thing near the charger that looks like it's cracked or messed up.
Can Mike or someone look at theirs and let me know if it looks similar? Thanks to XDA, this 5 year old phone still feels brand new - and I really haven't seen a need to replace it for at least another year.
Any help, appreciated.

armedmetallica said:
Okay - first sorry for opening this deadish thread. But figured better than opening up a new one.
My phone is doing the same thing - it just quit working randomly. Went online to get an address to our next destination. Got there, and picked up phone to make a call - and it wont turn on.
i noticed a capacitor looking thing near the charger that looks like it's cracked or messed up.
Can Mike or someone look at theirs and let me know if it looks similar? Thanks to XDA, this 5 year old phone still feels brand new - and I really haven't seen a need to replace it for at least another year.
Any help, appreciated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well aside from the fact you haven't been dusting your motherboard for a while, the component looks OK - here is a picture of mine, see no dust:​
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(JUST IN CASE anyone gets confused (get it haha) that is not a picture of the fuse in the picture shown above)​
Assuming you have no LEDs showing even when the charger is plugged in, then it is very likely to be the fuse:
http://www.mikechannon.net/PDF Manuals/Hermes Fuse Location.pdf​
Not that I recommend the old tweezer trick mentioned in a post above! - but it might be worth trying. Or soldering across the fuse. (Neither of these things is at all professional, but I'm old enough to remember putting paperclips in fuse holders as a strictly temporary measure you understand​
If you have any LEDs showing then it is not the fuse.​
Mike​

HERMES
I say if you can find someone to take a look at it, you may be able to fix the issue. For me it was as easy as seeing if it was the battery vs. the usb connector vs. even the battery indication LED at the top the phone.
Issue was a mix of the battery and the connector. Fixed and though I have an iPhone my HERMES will always be number 1!

mikechannon said:
Well aside from the fact you haven't been dusting your motherboard for a while, the component looks OK - here is a picture of mine, see no dust:​
(JUST IN CASE anyone gets confused (get it haha) that is not a picture of the fuse in the picture shown above)​
Assuming you have no LEDs showing even when the charger is plugged in, then it is very likely to be the fuse:
http://www.mikechannon.net/PDF Manuals/Hermes Fuse Location.pdf​
Not that I recommend the old tweezer trick mentioned in a post above! - but it might be worth trying. Or soldering across the fuse. (Neither of these things is at all professional, but I'm old enough to remember putting paperclips in fuse holders as a strictly temporary measure you understand​
If you have any LEDs showing then it is not the fuse.​
Mike​
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks Mike! You know - I was going to post "please don't mind the dust" then i figured, everyone else's gotta look like that. i guess not, eh?
anyhow i realized that that thing wasn't the fuse - from finding this thread before I posted, I was actually able to get to the fuse. My eyes caught that funky looking thing and said, hey this doesn't look right. So I figured it might be the issue (okay, i hoped it's the issue, because even with my fat sausage fingers, I can probably try swap that out).
I will try the ole tweezer trick to see if it will work. For now I'm in an BJ II - no touch screen and no WinMo (no matter how much we've grown around here, i still like the WinMo interface).
_moon said:
I say if you can find someone to take a look at it, you may be able to fix the issue. For me it was as easy as seeing if it was the battery vs. the usb connector vs. even the battery indication LED at the top the phone.
Issue was a mix of the battery and the connector. Fixed and though I have an iPhone my HERMES will always be number 1!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yeah - I can't drop the hermes for an iphone... thanks to these guys in XDA, my 5 year old phone feels brand new ( i just put 6.5 on not too long ago) and was loving it. I will never buy a non-Xda supported device, ever
btw, how much did you fix run you?

BTW Mike have you ever insert tweazer in the EXTusb port?
All the USB cables have some kind of shortcircuit so i asume that the pines are just to low and i need to rise them a lil... do you think it can be done? thans a lot

+ Que PPC said:
BTW Mike have you ever insert tweazer in the EXTusb port?
All the USB cables have some kind of shortcircuit so i asume that the pines are just to low and i need to rise them a lil... do you think it can be done? thans a lot
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not tweezers, but I have seen reports that they can be tweaked with a pin. However, you'll need a magnifying glas or preferrably a watchmakers Loupe. I'm lucky, I do watch repairs as a hobby so I have a Loupe and it makes life much easier!
Pins in the USB port do get bent easily and can cross each other.
Mike

help!
Last night i was surfing the net on the handst htc tytn, i in the meantime connected to my laptop thru usb n transfering mp3 songs, while doing so the handst hangs, i removed the battery, then when i tried to restart it boots up till microsoft corporation and doesnt go beynd that, no hard reset helps am using windows mobile 6.5 titanium hd. plz help

OK so I think i was able to confirm that it WAS infact the fuse. Tweezing it with my giant tweezer was difficult, but did work (I saw the RED led light come on).
Now - the question is what do I do? I am not sure I have the skill to solder this tiny thing w.o. getting solder ALL over the components around there. BUT at the same time, to me the device is dead, I'll only be putting the nails on the coffin if I mess it up.
Does anyone know if a regular ole cell phone shop can fix this? Or am I going to need to spend more than the device's street value to get it fixed ala the ole cheaper to replace than to fix mantra?
Advice, appreciated

Personally, put the repair money towards a new phone... It will probably be expensive..
Sorry, but as much as I loved the Hermes, its getting just a bit long in the tooth... Newer devices have more ram, and more little things, like GPS and so forth..
Though it was a good Phone, my Hermes has been retired for a younger faster model, aren't we all at some point...

Related

BUY/SELL a broken Wizard! Protect our dying breed.

do you have a broken wizard you'd like to sell? simply put it under www.ebay.com and signal the broken wizard offer (THE LINK!) under this thread - specifying the type of defect.
There is a number of OTHER broken wizards (like mine!) that could be repaired by recovering parts from others. And very often we could repair more than one - so after you've repaired yours you could try to resell the remaining pieces.
So, anybody having a broken wizard: follow this thread and we will ALL save money!
As you know, the service manual is very detailed and allows easy replacement of many parts: screens, keyboards, mainboards, stylus holders...batteries!
anyway, we are not anymore under warranty....right?
Comments also welcome, since keep the thread high in the list...
Anything YOU NEED?
Hi,
all those in need of parts could also post here...i desperately need one LCD PCB - since the connector on the flat cable between the LCD and the PCB went bad and my display doesn't work anymore/ after months of shaky performances...THX
anybody got a screen around?need the lcd+digitizer. im not sure yet whether its a gold or black connection, will check later on, but just wondering if anyone has an lcd around..
where could i get the service manual?
anyone know where I can find a switch? Yes, a switch not the button. Long story
Hi,
I have for sale the LCD and touch screen. However, it's more complicated.
My touch screen was cracked but the LCD was good so I bought a new touch screen and tried to fixed it but I was not able to connect touch screen to the LCD (solder the tape?). So I quit and bought a new LCD with the touch screnn. So now I have an used LCD and a brand new touch screen for sale. If you are good in fixing things, I'm sure you will have fun
Let me know if you need some more information or pictures.
Peace,
Tom
I'm looking for a brand new full external case (the front frame with the Imate Logo on it) and a non scratched LCD preferably with a screen protector installed on it.
That post by Janesaka about baby powder links to a worm! DON"T CLICK IT!
Hi all. I'm in need of the usb connector like in photos below for the wizard/8125. (Mine broke) Does anyone have or know where I can purchase one?
Thanks,
s-one
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usb connector
i got many USB...
do you have ebay account?
My son's Wizard/Cingular 8125 Died
I'll be listing my son's Cingular 8125 later on today on Ebay. It appears the motherboard went "belly up" on it. . . just 3 weeks out of warranty. At least -- from reading some other threads on the forums about the same type problems, that's what I'm surmising happened to it. It wasn't dropped, kicked, sat on, run over, etc., etc. -- it just shut down while he was on the Internet, never to be revived again. I tried switching out his battery with my fully-charged battery to rule that out and tried a few other ideas I found on the forums -- NADA.
No blinking LED when plugged into the wall charger and the PC gives me an error message that the "USB Device has malfunctioned" when plugging it up to the USB sync cable. He had been running the WM6 Underground Edition ROM for a little over 2 months without any problems. It's also one of the original G3 chip phones.
Thought I'd post on here before listing it to see if anyone is interested. PM me if you are.
(MODS -- if this isn't allowed, please remove the post, and I'm sorry)
hmmmm
newbie2 said:
I'll be listing my son's Cingular 8125 later on today on Ebay. It appears the motherboard went "belly up" on it. . . just 3 weeks out of warranty. At least -- from reading some other threads on the forums about the same type problems, that's what I'm surmising happened to it. It wasn't dropped, kicked, sat on, run over, etc., etc. -- it just shut down while he was on the Internet, never to be revived again. I tried switching out his battery with my fully-charged battery to rule that out and tried a few other ideas I found on the forums -- NADA.
No blinking LED when plugged into the wall charger and the PC gives me an error message that the "USB Device has malfunctioned" when plugging it up to the USB sync cable. He had been running the WM6 Underground Edition ROM for a little over 2 months without any problems. It's also one of the original G3 chip phones.
Thought I'd post on here before listing it to see if anyone is interested. PM me if you are.
(MODS -- if this isn't allowed, please remove the post, and I'm sorry)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ok sir.. for how much will you sell it?
Anyone has an LCD screen for the Wizard?
fencer said:
Anyone has an LCD screen for the Wizard?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I do but without a Touch Screen. Just an LCD.
~Tom
I need the MDA's main ribbon cable if anyone has one please??
i'm selling my unlocked cingular 8125 almost brand new. no scratches for $200. I'm just a Nokia/Symbian Guy. Phone works fine with faria's 3.3 pm me with offers
power button
can anyone tell me what kind of part i would need to fix a broken power button? not the actual button, but whatever needs to connect for me to actually turn off the device
b.mann said:
can anyone tell me what kind of part i would need to fix a broken power button? not the actual button, but whatever needs to connect for me to actually turn off the device
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What do you mean? Did the actual button break the one inside soldered to the board or just the case button that is used to press on the real button?
I broke the actual button trying to put the case back on and I got an old board I am desoldering the buttons from. If this is the case then I could probably send you one.
tommhnyc said:
I do but without a Touch Screen. Just an LCD.
~Tom
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
how much?
My wizard nearly fully survived a good old swim in a lake. The only thing that's broke right now is my touchscreen. Does anyone have a spare one they could sell me? It's a touchscreen digitizer with serial LTP280QV-E01
Many thanks
bikerjeg said:
What do you mean? Did the actual button break the one inside soldered to the board or just the case button that is used to press on the real button?
I broke the actual button trying to put the case back on and I got an old board I am desoldering the buttons from. If this is the case then I could probably send you one.
how much?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i mean the connection between the button and the mobo, or something like that
when i press the power button, nothing happens
usb connector port for tmobile mda
prinsipe21 said:
i got many USB...
do you have ebay account?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes I do porto3535. How much you want for that

Project Electric Himalaya

Hello to all. I'm a "new" member to the XDA-Dev community, and I am today presenting a document on my project that I've been dreaming about for 2 years or so. Finally, I had enough time to take time off my schedule to do something significant today - start this project officially.
I have an O2 XDA II with a broken connector. I will be attempting to hardwire an electrical source to the device by as many means possible. I have created this thread for people to come together and discuss any information they might have, any thoughts/ideas they want to share, or any observation(s) on their own experiments with this device.
http://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b296/tubecena/?action=view&current=himalaya.jpg
ps. : Here is something i forgot to add to the drawing :- At the end of the two wires in the end, I aim to put a USB male/female (haven't decided). Maybe i'll even redesign the area of the connector, but that would result in heavy work. We'll see how it goes. (and see how this thread gets feedback)
Here's something that might kickstart your contribution to this thread :
- Will it be possible to run the device without a battery with a charger of 5V?
- Will it be possible to join the two plates, positive (1+2) and negative (5+6), together, and get more power? Will there be any changes? Will there be a performance hike?
- What will happen to the device if a charger of 5.2V is used?
- If the two end wires are left not connected to a source, will an energy leak of any kind happen?
- Will the length of the wires significantly increase resistance and therefore reduce battery life?
I'm new here, go easy on me! >.<
Thanks for your time, and effort.
your questions are mainly in the general electric cat rather then himalya really
"- Will it be possible to run the device without a battery with a charger of 5V?"
yes unless the device detect the batt present and refuse to work without it
"- What will happen to the device if a charger of 5.2V is used?"
thumb rule is 20% each way without any problem
"- If the two end wires are left not connected to a source, will an energy leak of any kind happen?"
electrons travel from + to minus can't travel over air unless it's very hf
"- Will the length of the wires significantly increase resistance and therefore reduce battery life?"
there are many sites which let you calc the resistence of wires over lenght
but if you don't make them longer then 50cm you should not worry
Ah, thank you for your reply. Yes maybe you are right about the "electrical category" part, but since I was working on Himalaya, I might have just gotten a little over-excited and thought I might start a "project". Right you are, indeed this is purely electrical stuffs, but if you/anyone else might have any other information or ideas to refurbish your Himalaya, maybe this might be the place?
I was thinking of making use of the cradle from XDA II, resulting in a rewiring of the cradle and the device. Then that would mean that I need alot of USB cables, a drill, and maybe some wood? Well, if anyone has any points to bring up, speak up yeah?
In any case, IF I do decide to make something to help those dead Himalayas (like I said earlier, remodelling the cradle and device), then we'll have this thread as a tut.
Thanks and have a nice day people.
DEAD Hima.
okay, so i took two wires, connected the battery and the device (one plate and one pin each) and tried to fire up the device. It wouldn't start. I reinserted the battery to the Hima and it wouldn't fire up. I'm guessing that it's DEAD. Anyone might want to help me on this one?
- my connector is dead.
- my 2 batts are fully charged, still no avail. (not dead batt i guess)
- i charged my backup batt but still no avail.
- either there is an overall power undersurge(i'm just shooting random thoughts), or the RED SWITCH is causing the problems. coz the red switch is indeed loose"r", or, more loose, than before. Maybe I hit it abit too hard in the process and thought the battery did it, i'm not sure. Any help would be appreciated.
Oh and I'm buying a SECOND HAND PDA/XDA/WMTS DEV. I'm situated in Singapore. And I just need a very cheap one. I wouldn't mind if it has 1/10 cosmetics, coz i just need it to let my mum play solitaire. She's an avid player and would be very very cranky if she doesn't play in every few hours. Would preferably consider a very rundown XDA II, or XDA IIs, provided the cost is below SGD 70. Thanks and have a nice day people.
ps. even if it's not rundown, just pm me, we'll see how it goes. I need this asap!
Connector broken
Hi,
I have the same problem, my PDA connector (22 pins) is broken and I would like to connect directly the power on the battery pins (6 pins connector) but I dont know where are the + and - on these 6 pins!!!
Thanks for your help,
TD.
thats why we made a wiki for you
http://wiki.xda-developers.com/index.php?pagename=Connectors
completely broken
No because the 22 pins connector is completely broken (motherboard too)!!
But when I plug a charged battery, it's OK...
curious
tdfamily said:
Hi,
I have the same problem, my PDA connector (22 pins) is broken and I would like to connect directly the power on the battery pins (6 pins connector) but I dont know where are the + and - on these 6 pins!!!
Thanks for your help,
TD.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yeah even i got curious where does the right pin on my himalaya
because i'm on my project to recover my hima to out of his grave
lontong balap said:
yeah even i got curious where does the right pin on my himalaya
because i'm on my project to recover my hima to out of his grave
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://pinouts.ru/PDA/pda_wallaby_pinout.shtml
Have fun
how about fitting a mini usb to the himalaya?
You see, i would do it but my himalaya is very precious to me, so if i screwed up i am done for.
flyboyovyick said:
how about fitting a mini usb to the himalaya?
You see, i would do it but my himalaya is very precious to me, so if i screwed up i am done for.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hardwiring means HARDWIRING YEAH
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I wonder that hima could survive it.
aeroflyluby said:
Hardwiring means HARDWIRING YEAH
I wonder that hima could survive it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
whats that you are holding in your hand?
flyboyovyick said:
whats that you are holding in your hand?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A soldering
You're right: It looks a bit like a Gamma Scout! lol
When my connector goes thats what iam going to do. mini usb it.
flyboyovyick said:
When my connector goes thats what iam going to do. mini usb it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Flashing via bluetooth would be genius (and possible, radio stack should support it)

[Jan 15] [Q] USB Charge Data Port connection is finicky. Please help.

Today the phone fell from the desk with the charger cable plugged into the phone. Now it won't charge/make a connection unless the USB cable is forced to plug in at a downward angle:
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If the plug is in any other way, the phone will not recognize it.
This is bloody annoying!!! I can't charge the phone anymore unless the cable is resting on something and I can no longer listen to music in my car (since the road vibrations cause the plug to move around).
So my questions are:
Is there a way to fix this by way of opening it up and soldering?
Is there a way to replace the USB port?
I'm tempted to just ghetto rig it by creating a "lift" within the port by way of a small amount of Gorilla Glue (or similar resin)...but that seems 'temporary' to me.
So here's to hoping that someone else here has had this issue (besides stupid ol me) and happens to have a wonderful solution for this issue. Also, if it matters, I'm in the San Francisco Bay Area. So if you know someone that does this kind of phone repair, please recommend them me. Thanks!
I'll assume you ruled out the actual cable?
Just by experience with other hardware, I'd say either something is bent/broke or the solder joints opened up (most likely this, and I hope it's not surface mount...). No idea how easy/hard it is to open up a HD2, as I've been lucky enough to not have to , but once that's done, should be easy enough to inspect the connector, depending on electronics skills.
i checked the phone with 3 different cables. same symptoms.
yeah...i'm guessing (hoping) it needs a resoldering job. i suppose i should start looking for pictures of the guts.
I have exactly this as well. No desire to open my HD2 up so I've just taken to lying my wallet down next to it when I charge, and laying the wire over it. It's really annoying to have to do, though.
Hello there. Sad to hear that you have got this problem. There is nothing you can do to fix it, yourself. I had this problem for about 2 months ago, when my HD2 suddenly had the same problem, and would only charge when the usb cable was forced in a definite way. The situation is, that the micro-usb "house", solved to the mainboard, is BROKEN from the soldering. Some of the pins, is broken off, and when you push the usb cable upwards, the pins will again make a connection with the mainboard, but when you slip, it will loose the connection...
I send mine in for a repair, but HTC said that it was my own fault. They would not make a repair, unless I paid for a new mainboard. You can see picture from the repair center:
Or see my other thread: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=814053.
So what can you do now?
You can open up your HD2, to see the broken traces from usb housing, following this guide: http://pocketnow.com/hardware-1/official-htc-hd2-disassembly-assembly-training-videos-leaked - But you will quickly realize that it's IMPOSSIBLE to solder the pins. It's VERY small, and it's not only metal pins, but also some kind of micro wires, 5 pieces, and you can't just solder them...
The disassemble of HD2 it's not that hard, you will though need to buy some tools.
To get your HD2 working again: Get a new main board. From where? Good question. I looked at ebay, and searched for a very loooong, for a mainboard, but it's impossible to buy one, unless you find a hd2 on ebay with a broken screen, and the mainboard is working, for some small amounts, and change the mainboard yourself.
I waited for about 1 month for a mainboard, but couldn't find one. So i simply bought a secondhand HD2, for a small amount..
I hope this helps to clear up some things. Just PM if you have some questions.
Fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu... that's a downer.
I finally got this phone all perfect with the NAND Android.
Sigh... bummer that HTC had to make the USB housing irreplaceable.
That photo is helpful. That's out of my league. I've never soldered anything with that small of a footprint.
I'm looking for broken phones on eBay. Looks like they are going for 100 bones.
I think I'm going to try this one cell repair guy in town next week. Apparently he's a soldering virtuoso.
If that doesn't work, I guess I will have to replace the mainboard with one from eBay and hope that it doesn't have the same symptom I'm trying to rid of.
I will let you know if the repair guy has steady magic hands or not.
Truly truly frustrating...
Ah, surface mount =\ and the one in that pic actually lifted the pads themselves. If yours is anything like that pic, which I'll assume it's close, it looks like it should be possible to bridge the broken connection, but it will require a good quality temp-controlled soldering iron, fine tip, small wire, and excellent soldering skills. If the guy can hand-solder fine-pitch surface mount chips, this shouldn't be a problem.
The "fixed" connections would work, but wouldn't be 100% the strength of original. Some epoxy encompassing the connections and whole rear-end of the jack should strengthen it back up a bit.
So has anyone managed to fix this yet? Also, is there anything out there that can charge an extended battery without it having to be in the phone?
!!!SUCCESS!!!
SUCCESS!!!!*
the people i brought my phone too was able to fix it. it took a couple weeks for them to get their hands on a new USB port (apparently i destroyed it beyond repair). once they got a new one, it was soldered on.
*one slight niggle though: it takes 30 secs to transfer 100MB of data to the phone.
they "warned" me that they were able to to solder one of the pins, so data transfer may not be possible. so maybe the port is now acting as 'USB 1.0'. thankfully the only time i do data transfer is when i put MP3s and videos on it. and the occasional ROM/NAND flashing (which i don't do anymore since Cotulla/DFT's NAND Desire flash).
so besides that's little set back, i can charge/connect my phone without having to worry about losing connection to my computer or car.
but to be on the safe side, i no longer charge my phone via USB. i have purchased an external battery charger along with an extra battery. its been pretty sweet.
I've just see this post, for a couple of bucks, I think its' 70 or so u can get a charging mat, that will replace the usb charging feature. Just an idea.
Congrats! nick2k Good to know that it's doable. By the way it looks more like a rust on the image. What these guys had to say about the probable cause of that?
pk2_76 said:
u can get a charging mat
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
pk2_76; Mats are using dongles, connected to a phone by the very same micro USB port. While it might reduce the number of plug/unplug events, which wearing off the connector, the dongle itself is quite bulky to keep on all the time, and also might interfere with the holsters and skins. I'm still hoping for a special back cover rumored to be available from HTC with a mat-like charging accessory.
Well I just got one of the mains chargers off ebay, waiting for it to arrive. My port's getting worse so I need it sooner rather than later. Word of warning I guess, treat the connection with care!

[Q] HELP! LCD screen replacement - Wierd display - (256 colors only?)

Hey friends,
My beloved HD2 (T8585, the international version, running ParanoidAndroid v2.15 Jellybean) had a hard fall yesterday, and the the LCD got cracked on the bottom right. I was left with a fully working touchscreen but no display. So I gave it to a local cell phone repairer to get the LCD+Digitizer/touchscreen replaced. After the LCD+digitizer were replaced, the display has gone complete weird. It looks like I'm dealing with a phone that has 256 colors only. All pictures, camera, apps, live wallpapers etc. are looking horrible now. Of course I did not take the phone back from the repairer and have asked him to fix the display, but I thought it worthwhile to ask the experts out here if they've seen anything like this issue before.
To give you an idea of how things are looking now, I have posted pictures (from the internet) that are in 256 colors only. This is exactly how everything on my phone is showing up after the replacement!
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
AND this is the best example. On the far right is how I expect a pic to look like, and on the extreme left is how it is looking on my fone now. (please note that all these are pics I got from the internet)
Can someone help me understand what could have gone wrong?
Also, after the replacement all the front keys (except the End-Call key) have stopped working. What's going on guys?...!
The volume buttons are not working too.
If it is not the display itself, looks like the flex cables may not be connected properly to the motherboard- the keys not working strengthens this doubt, though front keys have a separate flex cable, while Vol keys are a part of the main flex. Are you sure this repair guy is capable?
Swyped from HTC HD2 using xda premium
ph03n!x said:
If it is not the display itself, looks like the flex cables may not be connected properly to the motherboard- the keys not working strengthens this doubt, though front keys have a separate flex cable, while Vol keys are a part of the main flex. Are you sure this repair guy is capable?
Swyped from HTC HD2 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your response ph03n!x. Yes, I am seriously doubting this guy's abilities now. Took the phone back from him after replacing the new LCD+digitizer with my broken LCD+Digitizer. The front keys are still not working... only the end-call key is working. BUT the key backlights are not lighting up at all.
I think you may be right about the Flex cable.
The vol keys seem to have a different issue all-together because yesterday (when he first replaced the LCD+Digitizer) I couldnt even 'feel' the key click when I pressed it. Today he claims to have 'repaired' it and the vol up key feels good when I press it but the vol down key has become very hard. Nevertheless, I cannot test anything until the display issue is fixed.
You got any good references in Pune?
P.S. HTC service center had quoted me a bill of INR 8800/- (approx 160US$) while this guy was doing it for INR 3600/- (approx 65USD).
I am getting my refund from this guy tomorrow.
Very rarely comes a query that does not find many answers on this forum. Could this be one such? Only time will tell.
Anyways, I have emailed HTC India customer care asking for the price of a LCD+Digitizer, and I have found this online: http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Installing+HTC+HD2+PB81120+Screen/5651/1
If there's anybody who has any/better information to share, please feel to share it at this junction.
Edit: Hit a dead end at HTC Customer Care. Received this email response from them:
Thank you for contacting HTC.
This is in continuation to our previous correspondence regarding your HTC HD2 device.
We apologize for the inconvenience caused to you.
We regret to inform you that HTC HD2 is an end of life product. Hence, the manufacturing of the accessories for the device is discontinued. However, we request you to check with the retailers, if the stock is available with them, then you might get it.
We would also like to request you to please visit your nearest Electronics/Mobile retailer to make the purchase. Alternatively, you may also buy online from website like Flipkart.com, eBay, Rediff shopping etc.
You can always visit http://htc.com/in/help for online FAQ's to get more help and knowledge about the products and services offered by HTC.
We appreciate you for giving us your valuable time and patience.
If you have any further questions or comments, please feel free to email us or call us at our contact center 1800-266-3566, Mon to Sun – 9:00 am to 8:00 pm.
Thank you once again for your continued patronage.
Let me know if I have successfully answered your question, please click here to complete this.
To send a reply to this message, please click here.
Sincerely,
HTC
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ebay has some expensive stuff, plus I cant be sure what they're selling will work on my phone.
What if it turns out to be incompatible like the one I got from this local phone repairer?
Hello,
If you consider yourself experienced enough to open up your phone by yourself, you could actually open it up and look if the LCD flex connector aswell as the Touchflex-Button-connector are connected properly and investigate the status of the volume buttons. This will only require minimal opening of the phone itself....
But please only do it if you think you can do it. If you never opened up electronics before, DONT do it, there are a lot of "traps" to fall in while opening the phone which could cause damage.
In my opinion, the best tutorial is this one. Unfortunately for you, its in German, but I think the pictures should speak for themselves.
http://mperlitsch.hintergrundbild.com/htc_hd2.htm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X9qFi3MKnFY
You can buy LCD and touchscreen (digitizer) on ebay. There are actually 2 versions, one version, the touchscreen connector is soldered to the lcd display (old), the other version, the touchscreen is connected via a flex cable connector (new and better)
make sure to buy a version which is the same on your phone (if you want to buy LCD and Touch as a bundle, use the connector variant)
You can determine the version you have by going into the bootloader (press and hold volume down and power button), if there is 0x30 you have soldered LCD/Touchscreen, 0x40 or 0x50 is the connector variant
But again, if you dont feel like you can do this and only have little experience in electronics, dont do it. Let someone repair it.
Best regards
Request to mods.
I request the mods to move this thread to the HD2 General section where it may get more visibility (and possibly more responses too).
Thanks in advance.
Awkward moment when your thread doesn't get attention even from the moderators.
abdelazeez said:
Awkward moment when your thread doesn't get attention even from the moderators.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awkward moment when erstwhile awkward moments stack up to awkward days.
HTC HD2 256 colors problem - motherboard issue
Hi all. Looks like problem is more complicated. I am working on it for longer time.
I am IT Laptop / Server / PC professional (hardware refurbishment) - mobile phones as a hobby.
I think that your tech guy could do his job properly - I mean labour, like connecting ribbon cable, etc., but..
1st my story: I have got two HTC HD2's. One day digitizer has stopped working on one of them.
(Found that it is a factory fault - every time when you press power button, you crush ribbon cable from digitizer under it actually)
Anyway decided to replace a whole screen with digitizer who bought on ebay. Screen and digitizer was separetly so had to solder them together. After fitting a new screen digitizer works (touch screen), but screen shows 256 colors only! I was checking everything again - like: connections, sockets, ribbon cables. Nothing helps! Decided to try old screen and even a screen from 2nd phone - no success - the same 256 colors only!
Last test was to check new screen (with digitizer soldered by me) in 2nd, good phone - and works fine!
Conclusion: Motherboard in 1st phone is faulty!
Question: Why? New screen/digitizer has damaged the motherboard? If yes - why works on 2nd phone?
Shall I use ESD strap? (never happend to me so far) and again - why works on second phone?
Problem with solder balls due to extra stress during work?
Or maybe I've missed something?
I would be thankful for any professional advice - please write if you really know or at least opened this phone before (no guessing)
I would like to add that I've flashed phone with stock software and no success as well - still 256 colors :/
Thanks.
abdelazeez said:
You got any good references in Pune?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not really. I am from Madras, and know a guy here - but even then, when it came to opening up my phone (when it went weird after gathering some moisture inside - another day in the beach!), I decided to do it myself. I followed the instructions from the official HD2 assembly/ disassembly video from here: http://pocketnow.com/hardware-1/official-htc-hd2-disassembly-assembly-training-videos-leaked
Long story short - my phone is not perfect yet. I had to change the keypad for the front keys twice, still they are a bit 'soft', and dont give a solid click - sometime they go all weird, one key will activate the other. And the vol-up is not working, I will have to change the main flex to fix that.
That said, it is pretty straight forward to get your hands on - especially if you have ever opened an electronic item before and have the tools.
danielof said:
Hi all. Looks like problem is more complicated. I am working on it for longer time.
I am IT Laptop / Server / PC professional (hardware refurbishment) - mobile phones as a hobby.
I think that your tech guy could do his job properly - I mean labour, like connecting ribbon cable, etc., but..
1st my story: I have got two HTC HD2's. One day digitizer has stopped working on one of them.
(Found that it is a factory fault - every time when you press power button, you crush ribbon cable from digitizer under it actually)
Anyway decided to replace a whole screen with digitizer who bought on ebay. Screen and digitizer was separetly so had to solder them together. After fitting a new screen digitizer works (touch screen), but screen shows 256 colors only! I was checking everything again - like: connections, sockets, ribbon cables. Nothing helps! Decided to try old screen and even a screen from 2nd phone - no success - the same 256 colors only!
Last test was to check new screen (with digitizer soldered by me) in 2nd, good phone - and works fine!
Conclusion: Motherboard in 1st phone is faulty!
Question: Why? New screen/digitizer has damaged the motherboard? If yes - why works on 2nd phone?
Shall I use ESD strap? (never happend to me so far) and again - why works on second phone?
Problem with solder balls due to extra stress during work?
Or maybe I've missed something?
I would be thankful for any professional advice - please write if you really know or at least opened this phone before (no guessing)
I would like to add that I've flashed phone with stock software and no success as well - still 256 colors :/
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have two HD2, one is whacky (see my reply above) and the other is pristine. I have opened both, and without ESD strap.
Why dont you find the panel manufacturer of this new panel:
Code:
dmesg | grep "Board id"
and see if this color issue is because of difference is manufacturers for the LCD you have gotten newly? We know that HD2 panels comes Acer (AUO) or Sharp - is the after-market panel from either of them, or is there a 'new guy' out there...?!
ph03n!x said:
Not really. I am from Madras, and know a guy here - but even then, when it came to opening up my phone (when it went weird after gathering some moisture inside - another day in the beach!), I decided to do it myself. I followed the instructions from the official HD2 assembly/ disassembly video from here: http://pocketnow.com/hardware-1/official-htc-hd2-disassembly-assembly-training-videos-leaked
Long story short - my phone is not perfect yet. I had to change the keypad for the front keys twice, still they are a bit 'soft', and dont give a solid click - sometime they go all weird, one key will activate the other. And the vol-up is not working, I will have to change the main flex to fix that.
That said, it is pretty straight forward to get your hands on - especially if you have ever opened an electronic item before and have the tools.
I have two HD2, one is whacky (see my reply above) and the other is pristine. I have opened both, and without ESD strap.
Why dont you find the panel manufacturer of this new panel:
Code:
dmesg | grep "Board id"
and see if this color issue is because of difference is manufacturers for the LCD you have gotten newly? We know that HD2 panels comes Acer (AUO) or Sharp - is the after-market panel from either of them, or is there a 'new guy' out there...?!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Guys,
I think my case is kinda different from what both of you described. I took my phone back from this repairer, and gave it to another guy. Surprisingly when he changed the LCD+Digitizer, the colors looked PERFECT! However the digitizer wasnt functioning properly so unfortunately I couldn't get my fone back. Gonna get it back tomorrow.
And on another note, the first repairer damaged the front buttons' panel. I had to replace that as well
Let me revert back with my findings if God-willing all turns out well by this time tomorrow

P580 Power Issues?

Hey all, I recently bought a P580 when I was out in the States with work (I'm back in the UK now). Whilst I was out there it was working fine and when I came back it was working fine when I originally tried it out - I didn't want to use it much as it was supposed to be a gift but wanted to make sure it was all set up and stuff. Second time I tried it, it won't power on. I've tried multiple USB cables, multiple wall plugs and tried charging it on my PC. Nothing seems to get it to power on.
Everytime I connect and disconnect it to my PC I get the audible tone that says a device was connected but that's it. Samsung's Smart switch doesn't recognise it either. Talking to their support, I've tried holding Power + Volume down + home button but that doesn't seem to do anything other than disconnect it from the PC and holding the Power button for more than a minute doesn't seem to do anything either.
I hadn't rooted the device, in fact I'd barely done anything other than install a couple of apps like Facebook, Snapchat and Youtube. Does anyone know what's going on with the device and is there anything I can do? I'd definitely prefer not to send it back to Samsung as they won't accept it in the UK support so I'd have to send it back to the US support.
Anyways, if anyone has any advice it would be GREATLY appreciated. Thank you.
It's not a power but display issue. If you can hear the sound in the background or press volume up and down and you can hear the sound, it mostly has the loose LCD cable.
Search Youtube how to open your tablet, the tool you may need is a guitar pick.
Disconnect the battery first. You only need to disconnect and reconnect the LCD cable. The locking tab is at the top of the connector, lift it gently up 90 degree and be careful, otherwise you might break it. All connectors are unlocked by lifting up from the top 90 degree and they're very easy broken if you're not careful.
Here the LCD cable ( black ) is just slightly below the line on mainboard, you will have a black screen
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
This one, the LCD cable is fully seated.
This connector is weakly hold the cable, you can pull the cable out while is in locking position. So you need put tapes over the connector and cable to hold it firmly, another one at the center of the battery to prevent if from moving. Battery should be back, otherwise you'll see nothing. Test by plugging your charger and press the HOME button, you should see the battery icon briefly if everything you're done correctly.
Beut said:
It's not a power but display issue. If you can hear the sound in the background or press volume up and down and you can hear the sound, it mostly has the loose LCD cable.
Search Youtube how to open your tablet, the tool you may need is a guitar pick.
Disconnect the battery first. You only need to disconnect and reconnect the LCD cable. The locking tab is at the top of the connector, lift it gently up 90 degree and be careful, otherwise you might break it. All connectors are unlocked by lifting up from the top 90 degree and they're very easy broken if you're not careful.
Here the LCD cable ( black ) is just slightly below the line on mainboard, you will have a black screen
This one, the LCD cable is fully seated.
This connector is weakly hold the cable, you can pull the cable out while is in locking position. So you need put tapes over the connector and cable to hold it firmly, another one at the center of the battery to prevent if from moving. Battery should be back, otherwise you'll see nothing. Test by plugging your charger and press the HOME button, you should see the battery icon briefly if everything you're done correctly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey, thank you for the reply! I opened up my Tab and it was loose. Unfortunately being a complete beginner I think I f****d it up and ruined the cable - imgur dot com/a/kvP8Z ( I cant post links)
Am I going to have to replace that now as it still doesn't seem to be working.. :/
Other than that I can't see anything else that might be wrong with it whilst it's opened up??
Again, thanks for your help, it's MASSIVELY appreciated!
Sn0wtek said:
Hey, thank you for the reply! I opened up my Tab and it was loose. Unfortunately being a complete beginner I think I f****d it up and ruined the cable - imgur dot com/a/kvP8Z ( I cant post links)
Am I going to have to replace that now as it still doesn't seem to be working.. :/
Other than that I can't see anything else that might be wrong with it whilst it's opened up??
Again, thanks for your help, it's MASSIVELY appreciated!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Speaking from experience, you are in a tight spot now... if you did what I did. I had a Tab S and I opened it up to replace the charging port. Different pieces, but same steps as listed above. I broke the locking tab that holds the cable down. My only recourse was to replace the motherboard. Long story short, it was easier (and not much more expensive) to buy a new tablet. I know this isn't what you want to hear. Sorry about your luck.
HOWEVER, my problem was with supply, my S was old and I couldn't find a new motherboard and the website I found was "out of stock" of used ones priced high. Since you have a fairly new device, you might be able to find a replacement much easier.
Bdozier said:
Speaking from experience, you are in a tight spot now... if you did what I did. I had a Tab S and I opened it up to replace the charging port. Different pieces, but same steps as listed above. I broke the locking tab that holds the cable down. My only recourse was to replace the motherboard. Long story short, it was easier (and not much more expensive) to buy a new tablet. I know this isn't what you want to hear. Sorry about your luck.
HOWEVER, my problem was with supply, my S was old and I couldn't find a new motherboard and the website I found was "out of stock" of used ones priced high. Since you have a fairly new device, you might be able to find a replacement much easier.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think that the locking mechanism is effected, but I scuffed the black LCD cable thing and it's now showing some of the bronze beneath it.. I thought that maybe that was causing it to not just work now that the cable's in the correct position? If it's the case that I've completely ruined the device and that I can't do anything with it, I don't know if I can justify getting a second one in such a short space of time. :/
Sn0wtek said:
I don't think that the locking mechanism is effected, but I scuffed the black LCD cable thing and it's now showing some of the bronze beneath it.. I thought that maybe that was causing it to not just work now that the cable's in the correct position? If it's the case that I've completely ruined the device and that I can't do anything with it, I don't know if I can justify getting a second one in such a short space of time. :/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's good. You might be able to find a replacement cable or even just put a small piece of electrical tape over the scuffed segment... Depending on how deep the scuff is. There are a lot smarter people on this board that may be able to advise you better.
Just searched "galaxy tab a 10.1 lcd cable" and they are pretty inexpensive. Cheaper than a new tablet! About $2 USD.
Sn0wtek said:
I don't think that the locking mechanism is effected, but I scuffed the black LCD cable thing and it's now showing some of the bronze beneath it.. I thought that maybe that was causing it to not just work now that the cable's in the correct position? If it's the case that I've completely ruined the device and that I can't do anything with it, I don't know if I can justify getting a second one in such a short space of time. :/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try to tape the LCD cable down to the mainboard, I don't know how bad you damaged it. This LCD cable is not easy to take out as the section connected to LCD is under the frame.
In order to take it out, you have to cut the frame. It's easier than heating up the whole assembly to remove the touchscreen and LCD from the frame. Newbie will most likely damage them in this process.
Beut said:
Try to tape the LCD cable down to the mainboard, I don't know how bad you damaged it. This LCD cable is not easy to take out as the section connected to LCD is under the frame.
In order to take it out, you have to cut the frame. It's easier than heating up the whole assembly to remove the touchscreen and LCD from the frame. Newbie will most likely damage them in this process.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
See Sn0wtek... A much smarter person than me!
This is the proper way to secure LCD cable both SM-T580 and SM-P580, without tape the cable will loose again.
This is another bad design from Samsung, the motherboard has no screw to hold it at the bottom. It can wobble easily, that's reason you need tapes to hold the LCD cable to mainboard , prevent it from moving out of the connector.

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