Database Users

How can I remove back cover from my XDA I ?

Hi!
Can anyone help me with recommendations how to remove back cover from my XDA I? I tryed to do that, but unsuccessfully . I don't want to damage this device, so I decidied to ask some advice.

Xda I case open
Just use a slot screwdriver for the top two slot screws. Then T6 for bottom two. Then unit held screen face-down ; use a plastic lolly stick with sharpend flat edge to work between front and back case. It`s best to start at the bottom right edge, near the hard reset hole.
Using a downward push action, plus, practice the case should just pop apart. Work the stick around the bottom, forcefully. Things should just workout o.k. from there.
Remove the void sticker from screw using tweezers. With care it will remain in tact, and can be replaced.
Remember to be forcefull

anyone have some more details to get into the xda ( i amtrying to replace the LCD) pictures/instructions what ever i can get will be greatly appreciated

I used a T6 torx for the bottom screws and a standard flat blade for the top, remove stylus. If you have finger nails, force your thumb nail along the groove starting near the reset hole, this will pop the tabs, you can then slide your thumb nail all the way around and remove the back. You will then need to remove 2 very small crosshead screws, one at bottom left and the ither at the top offset to the right, this is under a label "warranty void". The flat cables can be removed by bringing forward with a tiny flat screw driver, the retaining tabs, on the small ones try to bring the tabs forward towards the cable, at the same time, once you do one you will get the idea. The larger flat connecter needs the 2 retainers at the sides to be moved slightly to the sides to release the flat cable. Once this is done it is very obvious how to get the rest out. Seperating the screen from the digitizer is not so easy but it will seperate if you are diligent and careful but firm.

cruisin-thru said:
I used a T6 torx for the bottom screws and a standard flat blade for the top, remove stylus. If you have finger nails, force your thumb nail along the groove starting near the reset hole, this will pop the tabs, you can then slide your thumb nail all the way around and remove the back. You will then need to remove 2 very small crosshead screws, one at bottom left and the ither at the top offset to the right, this is under a label "warranty void". The flat cables can be removed by bringing forward with a tiny flat screw driver, the retaining tabs, on the small ones try to bring the tabs forward towards the cable, at the same time, once you do one you will get the idea. The larger flat connecter needs the 2 retainers at the sides to be moved slightly to the sides to release the flat cable. Once this is done it is very obvious how to get the rest out. Seperating the screen from the digitizer is not so easy but it will seperate if you are diligent and careful but firm.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks bud... well i dont want to mess with the digitiser if it is a pain the spare i am getting is having a prob wih sound so i will just go ahead and replace both instead of trying to seperate them... will keep u posted as soon as the other one arrives...
if anyone has more comments plz feel free to add the more the merrier and the chances of a screw up are reduced.
i will also try take pictures along the way so that someone else gains.

Broken XDA
Hi all,
can anyone help me fix my xda. A couple of weeks ago a bit of the headphone plug broke inside the connector. In an attempt to clear it I opened up the XDA. But now it doesn't power on after I've replaced the cover.
Any pointers would be much appreciated

Before you open your phone you should push the unscrewed top half of the stylus in the hole bottom right of your xda, this disconnects the battery, you need to check the flat shiny connecters on the edge of the board make sure thay havent been pulled out, the power from batter is on 2 contact pads inside rear of case so I dont think that is the problem. You could try using the stylus as mentioned as it may need switching back on.

Open TyTN

Hi,
is there any manual how to open the TyTN?
My screen was scratched and i bought a new one on eBay - but i dont't know how to open the front-cover. Is it a problem?
thx

ironfit said:
Hi,
is there any manual how to open the TyTN?
My screen was scratched and i bought a new one on eBay - but i dont't know how to open the front-cover. Is it a problem?
thx
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
See the Wiki site on this forum:
http://wiki.xda-developers.com/index.php?pagename=HTC_Hermes
and this Japanese site for dismantling:
http://inuchanbt.blog54.fc2.com/blog-entry-100.html
and my humble site with some more pics and downloadable TyTn Service Manual.:
http://michael-channon.spaces.live.com/
Mike

What I am curious about is where did you find a TyTN replacement display...
I had no luck finding one and resorted to sending my device to HTC in the UK for (expensive) repair.
The basic steps for opening the phone.
(This is a rough description from my memory...)
1. Remove the back cover, battery, sim, SD card etc...
2. remove four screws using torx 6 screwdriver from back (1 is in the corner in thel anyard loop and one is under the warranty "void" sticker)
3. Work your way around the grey plastic part you have just unscrewed until it snaps off.
4. Remove a 5th torx screw in a well right next to the camera lens
5. remove full electronics board - it will be attached on the bottom with a connector covered with tape - carefully remove the tape until you can unplug the connectorized ribbon).
6. Unscrew 4 Phillips screws to remove the bottom tray from the display assembly (slide ribbon through the hole)
7. Unscrew 4 phillips screws from display assembly corners
8. Work your way around the rim with a tiny flat screwdriver - unless you have a special plastic tool for this (careful not to bruise the plastic) to open the display assembly
9. Remove 2 phillips screws holding the PCB underneath the display and one from the board above the display
10. disconnect the display ribbon (may be under some yellow tape) from its connector in lower left corner (looking from the back) by lifting the latch part and pulling the ribbon out.
11. Unhook the display with the electronics and peel some sticky electronics from the display back.
12. Reverse these steps with the new display...
Let me know if this help / you have questions.

Disassembly guide for replacing screen?

I picked up a new screen off of the internet. I cannot find a guide to disassemble the Titan. Do I have to take the phone all the way apart to replace the lcd? Anyone have any useful links?
The only thing I found was a youtube walkthrough but she is replacing the casing not the lcd screen.
Thanks

instruction
hi,
i have changed my screen 3 times and my touchscreen 1 time. You dont need instruction the only thing you have to know is that you have to open the device completely to access the screen.
gl

I have just taken mine apart last night for the first time using no instructions and it really wasn't that bad. I got a digitizer coming in the mail, if you'd like to wait until I get it, I can take pictures of the dissasembly process and post the pics, but it may not be until Friday.
The steps are:
1. Remove battery cover, battery and stylus
2. Remove 4 hex screws then remove back cover gently
3. Remove the 4 phillips head screws that hold the motherboard in place
4. Lift the motherboard gently and remove the ribbon cables plugged in the back (there is silver tape holding it in place, peel that off gently)
5. Remove the 4 phillips head screwes that hold the slider, then while removing the slider chassis, carefully snake the ribbons through the square center
6. Remove the 4 phillips head screws holding the back of LCD case
7. Remove the top and bottom plastic strips where the screws were (there is another phillips head screw under one of those, just don't remember which one)
8. Gently separate the back cover from the LCD case
At this point, you have to just be careful of what you do. You have one long ribbon cable that is plugged in to the LCD and the buttons on top. Also, there is MUCH silver tape holding this mess in place, so peel the tape off gently until it is all separated. Once you got the tape off and the ribbon cable unplugged at both spots, it will all just fold downwards and the LCD/Digitizer should just fall out.
If you are replacing both LCD and Digitizer then that's easier, if you need to separatte those two then just gently remove the metal casing that is holding them together, there are clips that hold that metal casing in place, so just be gentle.
Like I said, if you'd rather wait for the pics then those should be around on Friday or so.
Hope this helps
-wagonis

Do you mind my asking of how much you paid?
there's a complete non-technical walkthrough floating around youtube and ^, ^^ are correct. It's not difficult if you're at least somewhat mechanically/electronically inclined..

[Q] Broken LCD screen :(

Hey im panicing so bad rite now. I just broke my htc's LCD screen ! Mad sad from this disaster . Dont got much money so can someone please tell me whats the cheapest or best way to replace or fix it ? I really need help because im freaking out!

The repair choices
There are basically two choices. Doing it yourself or having it repaired.
In either case the most straight forward is to replace the screen and digitizer as one unit. I expect you can still see things on the screen yet its cracked from one corner. Its the digitizer on the top that usually suffers but its hard to replace by itself. There is a YouTube video showing how to do this (search on Replace Touch Screen on HTC HD2 on YouTube).
If you are game to do it yourself (an electronics tech would be able to do it fairly well, though it is still fairly difficult) then you can buy a complete screen and digitizer off ebay (around $100). Getting the unit out of the case is tricky as its held in with 4xT5 Torx screws (easy bit) and lock notches around the case (tricky part). I found thin stiff plastic bits slotted in between the module and the case works well at releasing the locking notches. Then press out at the top of the battery area, while pulling the top edge of the plastic case out and down with your finger nails. One side at a time. Don't forget to remove the SIM card and SD card as these will hold the module in place if not removed.
The double sided tapes used to hold the screen in place are a problem, but warming them up with a carefully applied heat gun does release them. I would add that there is no need to unscrew any of the electronics boards as the screen can be replaced without doing this. Releasing the screen ribbon cable connector is done by flipping up the black locking section on the ribbon socket. Slide in the new cable, lock it down, then curl it around as you slide it backward under the metal case so that the curl in the cable occurs in that small space under the metal rather than being folded over sharply, which can fracture the ribbon cable "wires" rendering the screen dead.
Press the screen back down onto the tape (hopefully the tape has remained slick enough as its all that holds the screen in place). Be careful to align the edges and top and bottom correctly, otherwise your buttons won't work and the screen will not sit in the case properly. You can test the buttons as you align to feel for the slight click. Be sure to test all four as alignment left to right is just as critical for full function as up and down. You should also watch to be sure the light sensor little plastic bit (its a small clear cube of plastic) doesn't fall out and disappear while you are doing the screen swap and it stays in place during reassembly.
Then press it home into the plastic case. I remove the volume button (if it hasn't fallen out already) as it tends to push the volume button pads out of alignment (they are only held in with yellow tape (be careful not to loose them). Then with it all snapped in place pull out at the volume button section and slot the button back in place. Orientation is fairly obvious with the button points lower down and the joining bar going behind the case plastic to lock it in place (all with the screen facing upward). You may find the volume button only works if you press down on the screen slightly. This movement will be taken up when you screw the 4 torx screws back in.
Finish by powering up (with fingers crossed) and test. Hopefully all working.
Alternatively, if thats put you off doing it yourself, get it repaired by a service agent (around $300). Then it comes back all done with a small warranty. Most of the phone providers will be able to direct you to a good independent service agent.

[Info] Power button hardware fix

Hello all. Yes I am a noob to the forum, but not to small electronics and the dismantling of them. After getting everything set up on my machine necessary to Root my TF and side load the netflix app, I noticed my power button wasn't being as responsive as it should. Doing a quick google search I found that this was a common thing, even on TFs with stock firmware, so I took to dismantling the thing to figure out what is causing it.
I did a quick search to see if anyone has cracked the case open and found this thread. I didn't use a guitar pick, but rather a plastic and metal spuder set I had from repairing my mom's ipod touch (damn soldered batteries!).
Tools:
Tool Kit
Or
A T5 Torx bit
A spudger
#0 Phillips screwdriver.
Lock-Tite super glue gel (optional!)
1. Start by removing the two T5 torx bits from both sides of the charging/dock port
2. Use the plastic spudger or guitar pick and loose the seam around the entire case. If you look closely at the face, you will see the glass meet a black plastic rim and then the metal rim around that. What you are aiming to do is separate the black plastic from the glass. The plastic is glued to the metal so if you see adhesive separating, you are prying the wrong spot. There are various plastic tabs around the glass like a TV remote so using the plastic spuder is safer until you get some visible room to go in with the metal one.
3. Once you have the frame off, there are 4 #0 Phillips screws on the face, one at each corner, then 3 screws on the top and bottom of the frame (previously under the metal case
4. Removing all 4 face screws plus 6 rail screws will allow you to remove the back plastic. Now you can see everything
5. Bonus points for ASUS for giving us a battery that unplugs vs one that is soldered in (damn you apple). If you want some peace of mind, you can pop off the battery cable. I did not see any side effects from doing this (no data loss, etc).
6. On the side with the power and volume buttons, you will see a blue-tipped silver cable under a black tab. This black tab is what holds the ribbon down and lifts up like a toilet seat. It does not pull forward, it does not pop off (unless you broke it), but because it is plastic, be gentle. Once the tab is lifted, the silver cable will come out.
7. Unscrew the 3 #0 Phillip screws holding down the button board for easier access remove it.
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It doesn't matter whether you are having a volume issue or power button issue, so long as you know its hardware related. The way these buttons work is under constant pressure is "off" and removing that pressure turns it "on". So the metal tab pushes down on the plastic button, which pushes down on the switch. What is happening is over time, that metal tab gives way to less pressure on the daisy chain and the button stops working. The good news is, this metal tab is just held on via 'wings' around the soldered base. A razer knife is enough to gently lift the wings to pop the assembly apart for repairing. Given the construction of these switches, I wish ASUS just made the entire board available, but oh well.
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8. With the offending metal cap off, bend the middle thumb further down and back in to position and re-assemble the switch.
9. (Optional). I bent my tab further in to prevent me from having to re-do this operation several months from now, but doing so meant that ANY pressure on the button caused the metal cap to pop back off. That is really bad if the case is re-assembled. My solution was to swab some lock-tite super glue gel on the bottom wings and base of the metal cap and put it back on the switch. A very thin film is sufficient because it is a gel, it dries in seconds. WARNING> Once you reassemble the switch, keep pressure on the metal cap while you keep pressing the black button. If you don't, any glue leakage will lock that button in place.