Related
Disclaimer: This procedure voids the warranty and you can potentially damage your device.
This guide is for informative purposes only. Perform this procedure at your own risk.
This procedure was performed on an MDA2 (aka XDA2, Qtek2020, I-Mate2, etc).
Original Problem: The speaker stopped working.
Note: There seems to be a similar problem but it requires a totally different approach to fix it and it's out of the scope of this procedure. The problem on my device was somewhat different since when the speaker didn't work, the microphone was still functional. So the problem resides on the speaker connector, not the headphone jack.
Note2: English is not my first language, so please excuse any language errors you may encounter.
Let me start by saying that I have a big passion for gadgets and technology, so I was not going to let go on the opportunity to learn and inspect the guts of my brand new MDA2. You may ask yourself, why in the world don't you send it for repairs if it's a brand new device? Well, the answer is very simple, I bought this device over the Internet and I simply lost hope of being helped by the guys at the place I bought it from, they simply never answered or returned my calls and emails. I grew desperate and tired of using the headphones ALL THE TIME, even for alarms and reminders! and as I said before, I was driven by passion and thirst of knowledge and curiosity so I decided to fix it myself (even with the risk of damaging the device in the process). Let me add that I have some basic knowledge in electronics, and by no means this is my first device I fix. I have some experience. (I have fixed some damaged digitizers on a HP Jornada 568 PocketPC and Compaq iPAQ 3630 Pocket PC, fixed a volume slider on a SE T68i Phone and a SE P800 Smartphone to name a few).
Let me tell you that the MDA2 has been by far the easiest to fix. It's very well designed in terms of components and component placement, and the quality of the materials (plastics and electronics) is exceptional. But this is not a hardware review, so I'll start the walkthrough right now...
This is my victim... i mean... MDA2...
These are the tools required to complete the operation:
Torx #6 tool
Very small Phillips screwdriver (+)
Very small flat screwdriver (-)
Credit Card or similar card
A steady hand
Then I removed the SD Card and Stylus.
Proceed to remove the screws, there are two TORX#6 and four small Phillips (+). Be sure to put them on a safe place, they are very small screws and you don't want to loose them.
There are a couple of hidden Torx#6 screws under that black antenna cover, so we need to remove it. The plastic used in this part is not as dense as the rest of the casing (yes, the casing it's made of plastic!), so we need to be very careful not to break it, so apply very little force.
Start by using the flat screwdriver and insert it in the Stylus silo and use it as a lever (as shown), you will hear a "click" when the lock snaps. You will need flexible hands and dexterity since at this point you will also need to insert the flat screwdriver on the side square hole to release this side of the cover. (see next picture).
Here you can see the two squared-shaped holes where you need to insert the flat screwdriver to release the locks. Be very careful since there are some electronic components just below the square holes and do not apply excessive force to release the locks. Remember, the plastic is very thin on this part.
Now the other side, here you need to also use the flat screwdriver as a lever to release the lock on this side. Be very careful, since you will apply some force on the volume slider.
Now with the bottom part of the black cover released, you will notice there are some more locks to release on the top (just on the edge of the SD slot. DO NOT TRY TO REMOVE THE COVER YET!
One more time we need the flat screwdriver as a lever. Insert the flat screwdriver (as shown) but not too deep. Apply very small force in the direction of the arrow and the edge will snap off releasing the cover.
The black cover is now free.
These are the two hidden Torx#6 screws. Proceed to remove them to release the antenna.
The antenna has been removed.
So far so good, now the toughest part of the whole procedure, opening the MDA2 case. You need to be very patient, do not rush since the finish on the case is very easy to scratch and dent. Proceed with the small flat screwdriver and you need to start from the bottom of the MDA2, In my case as soon as I removed all the screws I noticed a small gap on the bottom so I started from that point, but if you don't see the gap, you can start from the headphone jack hole. Please be gentle and don't try to rush.
At this point you can use a credit card to help release the locks that are located all around the case, this way you won't scratch or dent the case. Start counter-clockwise, that is to the left of the headphone jack towards the Stylus silo. Once you manage to release all the locks on that side of the case, just lift it very slowly and the opposite side will snap off very easily. However, be very careful on that side (where the buttons and volume slider is) since in that particular place the plastic is more fragile because of the holes needed for those controls.
Once the MDA2 has been opened in half you can see the three small black Phillips screws (+) (see picture). Proceed to remove them. Please avoid any contact with the electronic components, since at this point any static charge can damage your precious gadget. And also make sure you don't drop the screws or touch the components with the screwdriver, since the MDA2 it's still very alive. See that coin-shaped thing on the opposite side of the screws? That's a LiPo Battery, and it's keeping your data from being erased. By the way, don't try to beat the 20 minute retention time of the battery, you have made a backup right? So go slowly...
Ok. So far so good... This is the speaker, well, actually that's the speaker encased in a small black boxy thing with two gold plated connectors. (see next Pic for a close up).
As you can see, the two gold plated connectors on the speaker container match the two spring connectors on the mother board.
Ok, here we need to be very, very careful. I pulled both springs as shown on the picture above to give them a little more pressure when assembled again and I also cleaned the gold plated connectors on the speaker container. Make sure you apply only the necessary force to pull the springs since they could be disoldered if too much force is applied. Use common sense.
We're almost done!
Now proceed to put everything back together. Remember to put back all the screws in their correct positions and do not apply excessive force or you will damage the thread and make things worse that they where in the first place. Proceed to close the casing by doing the opposite. Start by placing the case on the buttons and volume slider side first then the opposite side.
You may notice that the camera lens will not allow the case to go all the way, but if you do it slowly it will budge.
Proceed with the rest of the assembly in reverse order.
That's it... You can proceed to test the speaker.
My MDA2 has been working flawlessly ever since!!! :wink:
I hope this procedure was helpful.
Best regards,
Rayan
All red crosses instead of pictures...
And then the pictures came
Nice walkthrough you've made !
thanks for the very good explanation!
Illustrated by pictures is always great!
Thanks
Thanks, this is my way of saying "Thank you" to this marvelous community! 8)
P.S.- If you don't see the images, please try again later, since those images are hosted on my webserver and sometimes I need to reboot it... sorry...
Best regards,
Rayan
Just a little bump since I've noticed that many people want to open their beloved devices and I thought my walkthrough might help...
MODS: Any chance to make it a "Post it?" :wink:
Best regards,
Rayan
Excellent post, cheers, and if English is your second langauge then I'd never have known it! There are plenty of people for whom it is their first langauge who can't write as well as you!
Wow. Your documentation is better than what comes with the XDA itself! And your English is better than most people in the US. Great service to the XDA community.
Excellent work, man!
Thanks guys!
I'm glad you liked it!
If anyone has questions about the procedure, please don't hessitate to ask!
Best regards,
Rayan
Great! Somethings in life are free, for opening your XDA II there's Mastercard!!!
hahahahaha
pictures are gone? or is it just me?
did anyone kept a copy?
Sooooo sorry guys... I switched to a new hosting company and recreated my website but forgot to restore those images... I will take them back online ASAP!
waiting for the pics to comeonline again!
please do it asap!
thanks
any luck putting the pictures back online ?
Hello folks!
Sorry for the loooong delay, but as you can see, the pics are back!!!
If you have any questions about the procedure, don't hesitate to ask.
Best regards,
Rayan
Can someone help me?
I had the same problem myself, except that i've done all the stuff you said and i still have the problem... I can hear the phone ringing, but no sound comes from the device (Alarms, appontments, Media Player, etc). When i answer the calls i can't hear any sound from the people who is calling me... Can someone help me?
:shock:
Gents,
Slightly off topic, so please bear with me.
My M1000 has had a problem ever since I got it. The camera seems out of focus as soon as I try to make pictures past say 1,5 meters. Would the serrated ring around the camera lens perhaps be used to focus the device?
Thanks!
Stefan out
I tried to move the serrated lens just to play with it and see if I could get better focus and remember that it was really hard as if it was glued or something.
However, I didn't apply much force but seems like it's meant to be some sort of focus adjustmet, specially because it looks very close to the lens in my webcam when disasembled.
Should you give it a try, let us know...
is there a way to power an ipaq 3630 without the power adapter but with a different battery? like a cel battery? how is the power conector to the ipaq and battery?
Hi,
As my wizard dropped in the water it got completely soaked.
I disassembled it to let it dry, see photos attached, put it together again and presto, almost everything works!!!
Just four keys of the keyboard do not work anymore, and as it all happened a week ago now I do not think this will be fixed.
Does anyone know if they do not work because of the water or because of the impact (the Wizard smashed on the street first)?
Has anybody ever fixed a faulty keypad?
Can anybody tell me where I can get a replacement keypad?
Let me know if you need instructions how to disassemble your wizard.
many thanks!
manhattan.
I have no answer to your question, but it is nice to see the inside of the wizard one time.
A couple of other people were asking about disassembly in other posts - so the instructions would probably be handy.
Hi,
I would love some complete instructions on dissasembly as I am about to take mine apart for painting and a hardware mod.
As far as the keyboard goes, you would be surpised how long they retain water, i doubt its a hardware problem, keyboard are pretty much solid state with only a tiny membrane for contacts. However it is this membrane that is most likely to be your problem, the contacts are very close together and covered in a film that can be verry attractive to water as it has rubber over it. So in essence I am saying I bet it is still wet in there, just a few droplets of condensation would do it.
Options, take it a apart and check and leave in a very warm dry place for a day, or II place whole wizard on a warm heater (not hot) for a while and see if that gets it.
T
Hi,
I also want to know the details of disassembly the wizard.
I think you had better post the instructions o disassembly here as I'm sure there are quite a few people who wuld like to know, me included.
Just a thought by looking at the picture (brave btw!)
Would it be possible to replace the 2,5mm headphone jack by an 3,5mm one and drill out a new hole for the larger connector?
Would be neat if you weren't so dependable on those stupid converters. Not a pretty sight anyway.
Thanks for sharing the photos.
I took mine apart some time ago to fix the stylist problem and when I put it back together some of the keys wouldnt work. The back light wouldnt work either. I found the problem was the little snap that secures the flat cable form the keyboard to the main board. There is a really small clasp that clicks down on the flat cable after you insert it into the connector. Once I took it back apart and snapped it, everything was normal again.
I plan on taking mine apart to change the keyboard form the English/arabic to just English, (anyone know where I can buy the keyboard/keys?) so any instructions you have will be appreciated.
Thanks
The stylii in the picture look like BA stylii.
Do I get 10 points?
will post instructions
OK guys I will put together the instructions and upload them here. I just have absolutely no time now so I hope you can wait a day or two....
Thanks for the comments. I am aware of the little lock that secures the mini flatcable that connects the keypad to the motherboard. I assume that is not the problem as I snapped it securely back in place.
I will try the heater suggestion, I suppose you mean to put the wizard in an oven set at let's say 50 degrees celsius?
The styluses in the photo are from my Qtek 2020. As the Wizard smashed I lost its stylus.... :-(
Sorry the photos do not show the display half of the wizard disassembled... I realised too late that others would benefit from pictures...
Cheers
Manhattan
I dont think I would put it in an oven. I would think that just inside a vehicle sitting in direct sunlight for a few hours would probably do, unless you are in a really cold climate. You may also try some electrical contact cleaner then get some additional heat to it after it evaportates. There is probably something that has trapped some moisture somewhere. Just for info, I dropped my Jamin the other night about 4 feet directly onto a tile floor. It bounced a couple times, ejected the SD card, and reset. But it is working fine. However, I had a bud that dropped his 2 day old Sony Ericsson P900 into water and dried it off immediatly and let it air dry. It worked, but he had problems ever since. It would drop calls and restart all the time. So there may not be a complete fix for it.
Good luck
Hey guys, someone posted the HTC Service manual for the Wizard!
In this manual you see pictures how to disassemble the phone!
It's realy the best manual to use for opening your mobile friend....
Good Luck
http://forum.xda-developers.com/viewtopic.php?t=43836
I've successfully fixed my girlfriends crappy creative keyboard once after water damage using a pencil. Depending how the keyboard is made, most of the time there will be really thin conductive tracks literally printed on the substrate. The water isn't particularly nice to these tracks and I found that in some parts there was noticale oxidation/corrosion. By very lightly scratching of the affeted paint and then going over it with a graphite pencil this did the trick.
Just an idea, personally I probably wouldn't do it to my vario but then again I'm still in the honeymoon phase with it.
Good luck
I fix phones for a living for many stores and have many phones that have water damage
what you dont do is charge it.. it will burn out the board
what you do is let it dry out, use the service manual and let it dry out in parts
then get white spirit and a toothbrush... dip it in and clean the contacts for yourk eys
once done, again let it try and then see how it goes. thats what i do, although we have a machine that sends out sonic pulses but the above method works too especially when im lazy
HTC Wizard Disassembly
hi guys. a lot of confusion over this simple matter. I don't know where the PDF file everyone's talking about is, most links didnt work, but here's some pics. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK! hahahahaha!
http://www.pdagold.com/articles/detail.asp?a=274
Hi,
I have a O2 xda model
IPL 1.01
SPL 2.21
GSM 01.12.10
OS 1.5.4.2
there is problem in formating the phone.
Even after a hard reset the Os wont boot,
it says that "formating is failed".
there is a prolem in the flash memory of the phone.
please help me with the assembly and disassembly process so that i can fix it.
Any one?
Hi,
My stylus is constantly dropping out of the phone. I don't think it's a stylus or phone issue but general bad design since stylys inserted on the bottom of the phone. I saw some suggestions involving dissassembling phone and doing somestuff inside the phone but I'd rather not to go that far.
Are there any other easy ways of fixing this issue?
Please do search before posting
Example: write loose AND stylus in search field, lots of thoughts :wink:
That's right. A little search will give you quite a lot of options to fix your problem. But i think the simplest and most effective way is cut a piece of plastic straw which is a bit shorter than the length of the stylus, push it into the hole then you'll feel that it's like your brandnew wizard again!
an easier way is to wrap a bit of see through celotape near the nib. go around the stylus "twice" will feel like new when you put it back in the phone.
See image below
_________
____|____|>[/quote]
What fixed it for me is sticking small parts of grocery bags as suggesting into orifice. Works like a charm.
For the last couple of months my wizard has had a piece of Bluetack wedged up it's stylus hole. Hasn't fallen out since...
I bought today p3600. I have however a small problem. I cannot unfortunately open the cover. therefore I can not use akku and sim card. I have fear that I make p3600 broken. i need a assistence, heelp!!
if anyone can send me some picture how to open the back cover of p3600
sorry for bad english, thanks to google
my msn: [email protected]
did you manage to open the battery cover? I have the same issue.
I must be blind, but I cannot find a way to open the battery compartment.
You slide the whole back cover up. You need to use some force, and you hear a click sound when it opens. No covers sliding of by mistake on this model
Thank you!
Finally I was able to manage. You do have to apply some force. As a first timer opening the Trinity's battery compartment, I was a bit scared, but after reading your message, I said: "let's go for it! if it brakes, I'll say it was defective" .
andreuroig said:
Thank you!
Finally I was able to manage. You do have to apply some force. As a first timer opening the Trinity's battery compartment, I was a bit scared, but after reading your message, I said: "let's go for it! if it brakes, I'll say it was defective" .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
LOL
I also had MAJOR problems opening my Trinity...glad I'm not the only one - it was a bit embaressing ;-)
Opening the Trinity
1. Remove the stylus. This helps.
2. Use the edge created to gently push up.
3. It slides only a very short distance (2 cm) to free the back cover.
4. NO pushing on the back cover like the Prophet.
Removing the stylus does help. Thank you.
Where do you put your fingers to slide up? Does the camera slide up as well?
//edit
I found out how to open. thanks for the hints!
Glad you managed.
I think it is one of the hardest removing covers I've seen to date.
How to open the back of the HTC P3600 Trinity for battery and SIM
The HTC P3600 Trinity is a really great phone. But opening the back to put in the SIM and battery is really astonishingly difficult.
The first piece of advice I offer is if you bought the phone in a local store, go back and have a member of their staff do it! Even if it is a long drive! If it does break then they will be responsible!
But, like many people, I bought mine from an online merchant so that was not an option for me.
I regret it is difficult to provide a meaningful photo. But I hope the following description may be helpful to someone.
Ignore the very minimal directions in the user guide which simply refer to sliding the back open. This is misleading. No sliding is involved. The photo in the user guide also does not correspond to the actual back of the phone so should also be ignored. It is actually one piece of molded plastic that encompasses the entire back and goes around some of the sides too. There is no panel or section to slide or swivel open.
Also ignore the two little raised bumps low down at the back. They look like the back of the Magician. I initially expected to push downwards on them to slide the back off. Not so!
Unlike the Wizard there is no release switch, as there is no panel to open.
The back pops completely off by being levered directly backwards away from the front of the phone. Not up-down-left or right. Just directly backwards.
Like this:
|Back| <--> [Prise with force!] <--> |Front|
I recommend using a soft surface for your phone during this ordeal! Something like a big cushion or a sofa or a bed. Not a hard desk. This process will take both hands and your phone will need a soft landing if slips away from you!
The only notch to use for initial leverage is if you remove the stylus. I took out the stylus to make this notch accessible. I then used two spare Magician stylii to prise the back off. I used the handle ends, not the tips. First I placed the handle end of one stylus in the notch where the Trinity stylus goes and twisted it very hard to begin to lever the back open. Once a gap began to appear I forced the handle end of my other spare Magician stylus into the gap to hold it open. Then I found another gap to prise another place on the back open more.
By using the two stylii handles with considerable force I was able to work around the back of the phone until it popped off with a loud "clack". This was an uneasy and contradictory combination of force and care!
Fortunately, I managed to do this without damaging or denting any part of the phone. I was quite relieved as it was not easy.
It does seem the back is made of strong plastic which is sufficiently strong and flexible to stand this force! HTH.
I don't see how you people found the unit hard to open at all. You just push on the lip at the bottom of it while gripping the lip at the top front with your other hand. Took me maybe 5 seconds to figure it out.
Of course, I treat all my electronics like crap and am not gentle with them at all. You guys will have working Trinities four years from now, and mine will probably be at the bottom of a lake within a few months
mikesol said:
I don't see how you people found the unit hard to open at all. You just push on the lip at the bottom of it while gripping the lip at the top front with your other hand. Took me maybe 5 seconds to figure it out.
Of course, I treat all my electronics like crap and am not gentle with them at all. You guys will have working Trinities four years from now, and mine will probably be at the bottom of a lake within a few months
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Witty post, mikesol! I do hope my Trinity will be working 4 years from now... but I have yet to have a handheld last a full year! You may just have your brain properly engaged, unlike me!
To be honest, it was just really absurdly hard to open my Trinity the very first time. Now I can open it quite easily just as you describe. Actually, it feels like it even has the potential to get a bit loose if I opened it a few more times (so I will open again only when essential)
I'd guess some of them come from the factory with the back on really, really tight. Perhaps yours had just enough give to make it a bit more apparent which way to pull? There was absolutely no give in mine any way I moved it first time around. It really would not have come off the way you describe that first time. Of course my fingers are puny and frail!
How do you like the phone?
different method
hi there,
I bought the p3600 yesterday in HK and first had the same problem. And because some of the methods described in this thread are definetly impossible with my model, I would like to present you my way of opening the back cover.
It really slides up. So take the p3600 and put it with the display to the hand in your left flat hand with the buttons on the side where your arm should begin.
Take your other hand and put it in the back of the p3600. you now should look like a Chinese in a temple.
Move/slide now your right hand up in the direction in with the fingers point. use some force. Thats it! I open it this way.
stucki said:
hi there,
I bought the p3600 yesterday in HK and first had the same problem. And because some of the methods described in this thread are definetly impossible with my model, I would like to present you my way of opening the back cover.
It really slides up. So take the p3600 and put it with the display to the hand in your left flat hand with the buttons on the side where your arm should begin.
Take your other hand and put it in the back of the p3600. you now should look like a Chinese in a temple.
Move/slide now your right hand up in the direction in with the fingers point. use some force. Thats it! I open it this way.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From what I gather here (this is a fantastic example of google translation!!! ) I think this "new method" is exactly like what was described by mikesol above. The running theme here is that you must use force to get the unit to open. Also, it is definitely a sliding motion from bottom to top - do not pry it off as has been suggested earlier! I think the camera confuses people (it looks like you need to lift the cover off around the camera - but the whole camera circle comes off as part of the back cover).
I think we can put this one to bed now.
absolutely the hardest cover to remove, but thanks to you "trailblazers" i was able to remove mine without destroying it.
I did my way
HTC Trinity just arrived. Same battery cover problem. Tried to follow advice in this thread but my big, sweaty hands could not gain enough leverage on the extremely shiny casing, to slide the back cover up. My fingers just slipped off. So here is my method. To slide the back cover up you press up (or away from you) on the bottom edge of the back casing and press down (or towards you) on the top edge of the front casing. The top edge of the front casing is maybe 5mm wide, rounded and very difficult to push against, for me at least. My method involves bracing this top edge of the front casing against an immobile hard edge while you push up on the back casing with your fingers. The immobile hard edge I used was a wooden chopping board braced against the wall. To make sure it pressed only against the top edge of the front casing (and not also against the top edge of the back casing which would stop the back casing sliding up) I used a book to next to the wooden board to raised the Trinity to the right height off the work surface on which everything rested. So....I placed the Trinity face down on the book with its top front edge braced against the edge of the adjacent wooden board and used my fingers to press upwards (towards the wooden board) on the bottom edge of the back casing. The back casing then slid relatively easily. Job done. Its not easy putting this into words. Hope someone can make sense of the above and finds it helpful.
Hi,
just another question by a lam3 user
After some day using my tytn, i noticed that the keyboard is very loose, just after locking it under the lcd.
to explain better: video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pj56htWOHEk
as you see, the keyboard is very loose just after locking it.
My device id is 640, so it is affected by some keyboard sliding problems(is a v1605)...but my question is: There is something i can do to fix this?
i tried to tighten the screws i signed here
but without significative improvement.
this is a minor issue,i think, but if i can fix it my tytn will go better in my huge hands
however, no problem if the fixing procedure involves to remove the warranty sticker up the screw, the tytn is on italy and i do not think that vodafone uk will change it
many many thanks
gtazok
The screws you've tightened are just for the housing. To make the keyboard tighter, you need to take the device apart
These 2 links explain everything you need:
http://michael-channon.spaces.live....BlogPart&_c02_owner=1&partqs=cat=Hermes+Fixes
http://www.howardforums.com/showpost.php?p=9119842&postcount=1
Good luck!
underneath your main board is 4 screws tighten those and you should be set. If not you may need to by a new housing. I hope the tighten helps though.
omg, this will really need to open all the device!
damn, there is no other way?
I couldn't really tell from your video if it is the standard loose keyboard problem you've got, but my keyboard was loose in the way that when closed it could 'fall' open pretty easily.
I used the guides above, and while it does invalidate your warranty (unless you're able to remove the warranty sticker without breaking it), it is very easy to do and put back together.
my problem is, as shown on video:
when i try to press the power button, i apply some force to my forefinger to tighten the grabbing around the phone.
when i apply this force, the upper part of the phone(the part where is the buttons of mail and iexplore) slide off the housing, and go for about 2 mm (as shown in the video).
i will like to tightnen this, to do that the phone will never slide the keyb without apply *Decent* pressure.
the keyboard,however, stay solid when fully opened, and *decent* pressure is needed to restore it from the full opening to housing closed.
was i *almost* clear? i'm very sorry but i understand that my english is a mess and really confusing, but if someone could guide me, i can do photo, pictures and so on.
thanks
gtazok
Yep, that sounds exactly the same as my problem!
The 2 links above should help, as long as you're happy to take the phone apart. If you are willing, it is pretty easy to do, but will invalidate your warranty if you still have one.
A couple of taps on the indents on the sliders with a screwdriver will make the sliders much tighter, and you can test the tightness before putting it back together.
I went a bit overboard with mine and overtightened it, but now I prefer it that way -there's no way the keyboard will slide out without some effort
StarMonkee said:
Yep, that sounds exactly the same as my problem!
The 2 links above should help, as long as you're happy to take the phone apart. If you are willing, it is pretty easy to do, but will invalidate your warranty if you still have one.
A couple of taps on the indents on the sliders with a screwdriver will make the sliders much tighter, and you can test the tightness before putting it back together.
I went a bit overboard with mine and overtightened it, but now I prefer it that way -there's no way the keyboard will slide out without some effort
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
great, that was exactly was i searched so!
but..a couple of taps...i have noticed that the indents are "stamped", there is the possibility i will break it with too much force?
and, for opening the tytn, where i can find all the needed in one pack? i live in italy, but i have no idea of what screwdriver and things must(and where)buy.
maybe there is some omnicomprensive pack that could be shipped to italy without problem.
many thanks, i appreciate much
Gtazok
The metal is quite soft in the sliders so it is possible to hit it too hard, but I don't think you're likely to do that if you start softly and keep testing the slider tightness until it's right.
The only 'special' screws are the ones holding the case in, but they can be opened pretty easily with a small flat screwdriver. From what I can remember, the screws inside the phone are just small normal screws.
gtazok said:
omg, this will really need to open all the device!
damn, there is no other way?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Okay If you do tighten those screws it will help that. I've seen them to be soo bad that if you tilt the device it slides open. Soo basically if you still under warranty send it to your provider other wise follow this guide.
ftp://ftp.xda-developers.com/Uploads/Hermes/Hermes_Manual_Hyins/Hermes_Service_Manual.pdf
This will guide you through the entire process of taking apart your Hermes. Good luck if you have any questions.
[email protected]
HI!!
just managed to re-close my hermes (first time i closed it without inserting the last cable LOL...i forgot it, but before powering off he comed to my mind..omg what i have risked not plugging last cable before closing??)
however, i did manage do disassembly only with a standard little screwdriver, not without problems
i just arrived to disassemble the keyb, and get rid on the rails.
I must admit that i NEVER have seen so much dust in a phone(i think mine was re-assembled from another).
i have extracted the rails, the 2, and tried to gentle tapping the indents.No way to go, i tapped *gently*(sometimes a little hard) but i really noticed no improvement
so,i thinked:
"if i change the rails, i will have a perfectly mirrored situation, with the keyboard closed it will be ok, with keyb opened it will be a little loose"
(remember, the keyb was loose when try to open it, not when to close)
So i changed the rails, switching them...
and now it's really better, the phone rarely go off his housing, closed, and go down a little more easily(but is acceptable, because i never do any "forcing" when it's open..)
maybe, with time, the opening will become a problem, with the keyb sliding to close when it's open.
However, maybe this not occour.So for now i'm happy
last thing. I noticed that on the page where the man tried to adjust the rails, he suggested
1)to tap the indents( tried, work very very little)
2)to insert pieces of ribbon
i not tried the second suggestion, because i have not understand WHERE to insert those pieces.Maybe he was suggesting to insert them at the end of the rails? where the carts block? if it is, why? i tried to pull up the small piece of "sheet"(i don't know if it's the correct term, sorry for my bad english ) on the border of the cart where it don't block, but whitout results..so inserting ribbon what improvement would have done?
thanks for the patience to read all my messed up english and many thanks
gtaz
the sliders are becoming loose as the beginning.
someone knows where to buy the sliders as a spare parts?
anyone know?
ok no way?
gtazok said:
anyone know?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Take a look in this thread & mikechannon's link; if not there, then just pm / ask mikechannon...
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=298784
galaxys said:
Take a look in this thread & mikechannon's link; if not there, then just pm / ask mikechannon...
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=298784
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks
gtazok said:
the sliders are becoming loose as the beginning.
someone knows where to buy the sliders as a spare parts?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think you just need to increase those indents a bit more than you did. It is more successful to tap the indents using a small flat blade screwdriver and a small hammer. (Go easy of course and keep testing as you tap. You want a very firm click into place. You should hear the click and it should be really quite hard to move the slider over the indents using your finger tips)
The tapping technique is probably better than just pressing a screwdriver blade onto the indent. Pressing rather than tapping is likely to simply bend the entire metal strip and curve it slightly. This might improve the grip for a while but as the curve gradually straightens out again the slider will just become loose again. Using the tapping method I did mine well over a year ago and I have never had to redo it and it takes a very firm push an audibl clicks to open the device.
(Buying new sliders will not solve your problem. The vast majority, it seems to me were made withy too shallow indents. It may be worth buying new ones if the micro welds have sprung apart however)
Mike
hi
i dismantled my hermes one more time. This time i put out an hammer(a big hammer,indeed)so i "gently" hammered with a flat screwdriver the indents.
result? the keyb is now "really locked" when i open it..but the opening problem remain.
when i try to open it when it is closed, with my finger, i notice that the slipping of the upper left part(seeing the phone from the front) is EVER too loose, i reopened 2 times and tapped "not so gently" the incriminated indent, but i noticed no result. i also tried to exchange the sliders (the lower with the higher) but no improvement was done.
i think that is a defective implementation, because the "centre of pressure" is located in the upper part of the phone, so the phone is like to open more easily when it is closed. Did anyone noticed that?
however, the overall is increased, i think, about 30-40% more tighten as before, and that is no bad.
shame it has no solved my problem, but life it so bad that i can will be live happy with a little loose tytn
thanks
Gtazok
I agree that my the upper left keyboard slider has always been looser than the bottom...
good, that confirm my idea.
let us know if any other noticed the same thing.
thanks
gtazok