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I got my hands a E970 screen with a cracked digitizer. I hoped to use it to replace my cracked E960 screen,with a cheap 30 buck digitizer. So I carefully checked the pin-outs and it looked good. I then plugged it in and what do you know,worked just fine. So for what its worth,if its useful to anyone else,the LCD screen from an E970 will in fact work in an E960. Unfortunately it didnt work out. The screen,like the nexus 4 display,was glued t the front frame. I tried getting it out and ended up destroying the lcd. However,I did experiment with heating the front and separating it with a molybdenum wire. That part seemed to go smoothly. If anyone else has to do this,heres my best suggestion. Get some sandpaper,perhaps 80 grit and glue it to a board. Then sand the edge,moving parallel to the plane of the screen until you have ground away the frame and exposed the edge of the glass digitizer. Repeat on all four sides. This way you should be able to get to the adhesive under the digitizer without further cracking any glass. Remember,the front of the digitizer is cracked,so the lcd is vulnerable. I would get a piece of window glass and cut it to about the same size as the glass digitizer. Then used adhesive transfer tape to bond it to the front cracked glass.
Keep in mind,Ive not separated one successfully yet,so this is a combination of a report of my experiments and my educated guess on how to proceed in the future. It goes back to a previous attempt I did on a broken LCD. I conjectured that if I were to separate the plastic digitizer from the FRONT glass,I could more easily peel it away from the LCD. SO I took separated about a mm of the digitizer from the front glass. Then I ran a qtip dipped in acetone along the edge. The acetone was drawn into the gap by capilary action. I then waited a few minutes,repeated the acetone dipped qtip procedure,and then carefully slid the corner of the foil coated plastic package of a nicotine patch through the gap. The packet is very very thin,way thinner than a credit card,but very stiff. It easily removed another mm or so of the adhesive,and better still,left a gap,so that your not forcing the display to bend. This went well until I got near the last half inch of a shard of glass,about 1/3 of the way up the display. At that point,I applied a bit of upward force and that shard,about two inches long,with a sharp point,held only by a the last half inch by perhaps 1/3 inch section of adhesive shattered the LCD under the point. The lesson learned is,a cracked digitizer is going to have this lever effect on the shards that crack the lcd with a tiny amount of force due to the combination of the long lever arm and sharp point. So the glass is to hold that all together and keep it from doing the lever thing.
My experience tells me that ,yes,those techniques you see on the internet with the credit card and the heat gun MIGHT work,but your going to need a lot of skill. And that skill is developed by trashing DOZENS of LCDs. And its still not going to be 100%. Probably no more than 50%. My guess is that these were developed by people who repair these for a living. If you do,then you probably have a big box of broken displays. Some only have broken digitizers,some broken LCDs,and you think "If I had a way to reuse some of these parts,I could make a bunch of extra money" so you start with the broken ones,and then when you get something that works,even 50% of the time,you can make 50 bucks or more extra profit per screen you can fix,from parts that were previously worthless junk to you.
But I want something 100%,not for my nexus,but because more and more phones are made like this,and in the future they all will be. So I want to make a procedure that will fix it all the time. So far,I suspect that you have to choose one part to save. Either the frame or the LCD digitizer stack. I may try working around the edge with a plastic tool and heat with a glass bonded to the front and see if I can get the glass free of the frame without destroying the LCD,but Im not optimistic,first Id like a sure fire way to save an LCD.
My feeling is that if you bond the front glass to a ridged substrate,you can then use the sandpaper to grind the edge away. If you do it parallel to the plane of the screen,it should be very gentle on the display,avoiding any damage. Then you can perhaps with the aid of heat,cut the digitizer away from the frame. Im thinking at this point,you need a screen separator.
So Im going to make one. My plan is that I will make a device from plywood. It will have a backing and a part that slides. The part that slides will have a heated piece of aluminum with a thermostat that holds it at 175F and an inductive heating coil behind the aluminum. This "carriage" will slide back and forth,and there will be an guide that will constrain its motion to one axis. The "carriage" will actually be made from two blocks,one that will be in the guide,then a second that bolts to that,using some studs,and washers and wing nuts. Between these two plywood layers,I will uses sheets of paper as shims to adjust the height so that a 0.08mm molybdenum wire (I have 100' of it I got off ebay) is at the right height to separate the screen. The screen will be stuck to the glass with adhesive transfer tape,the edges ground away,then mounted to the separator with adhesive transfer tape,and shimmed to the right height. I can then heat it to temperature (the glue *I* use SHOULD be strong enough to hold it in place,if not,I just buy one of the higher temp adhesives. I can then separate the digitizer from the front glass AND the frame. At that point,the LCD should be free of the frame. Now,if the digitizer is OK,I can simply ,carefully clean the adhesive off of it and repair it using a 12 dollar front glass.
Some people use optically clear adhesive that is uv cured,because its easier to get a bubble free bond without a vacuum oven or autoclave so I will just use an optically clear adhesive transfer tape. I however have access to a vacuum oven at work,so I'm good to go. Even if I did not,I suspect that there are other options. I might try one of those vacuum storage containers they sell at target that go with those "food saver" vacuum packers. (I want one anyway to freeze food in,very handy. Buy 40lbs of chicken breasts when they come on sale for 1.89 a lb and freeze them! Pays for itself in no time) My hope would be that ,perhaps of first heated to say 180F or so,then placed on paper to avoid melting the plastic container ,you and a vacuum pulled,it would remove the bubbles. But I have access to the oven so I don't care much about that.
If not,then I can probably make sure the wire is on the other side of the digitizer and separate it from the lcd instead. Then the same procedure can be used to bond the LCD to a new digitizer/glass assembly. But first I need to find some more broken LCDs to play with. But hopefully my experiences will help others in their quest. The end result of what I have determined though is,Im going to have to make the separator,becuase while its obvious that its POSSIBLE without it,its just not reliable or practical.
As a photographer, I especially apologize for the lack of photos of the process... this is a story of my S5 getting broken and repaired.
I left my S5 on the hood of my girlfriends Jeep while cleaning up the dog's feet and being distracted, I forgot to grab my phone. Driving down the canyon road 50mph back home, noticed something thunk off of the front of the car... yep it was my phone. It was in an Otterbox Defender series case.
Upon inspection, I was very impressed to find the phone in very good condition. The front glass totally unbroken with no scratches, the only visible damage was a scuff on the chrome of the top right corner and what looked like a tread mark from the tire. The otterbox case looked very good as well, it took some damage where the tire marks were on the upper right.
The phone's internal display took too much shock/flex and was shattered but still hard a partially visible image and the digitizer worked fine. I ordered a new display around $150, it came with a pre-installed homebutton/fingerprint scanner module. The display I ordered was pre-owned in a+ condition, so it had the old factory adhesives stuck to it.
I removed the small plastic cover on the rear to unplug the home-button cable, removed the old display using a heatgun to ease up the adhesive and it come off pretty smoothly (start at the top from the earpiece), you have plenty of room to get tools behind the screen to unplug the display's flex cable and pull the home-button's cable free.
I was impressed in how well adhered the glass is and how the home-button works, very waterproof design. The metal frame has a texture etched into it to promote even better adhesion.
-I carefully removed the old adhesive from the new display and from the frame. I used alcohol and microfiber rags and took my time, both parts come very clean with some fingernail force and patience. I applied the new adhesive, this part was very easy, the applicator-design the adhesive comes packaged in makes it a breeze to line up and entirely avoid wrinkles or mishaps. I'll link what adhesive I used, it seemed to be factory OEM and ridiculously sticky stuff, several times more powerful and pliable than the 3m strip-tape.
I made a double-check that the frame adhesion area was clean and began to hook the connectors back up, plugged the home button and LCD connector back in, I started applying the screen from the earpiece (earpiece metal fits through the hole in the glass to make lining up perfectly easy. and pressed the entire display into place. Bam, brand new. That adhesive WORKS perfectly. It grabs and holds, very tight. I feel very confident that the phone still carries its same waterproof spec.
I hope this helps any others with broken screens that want to bring their S5 back to life and to be unafraid to dig into this yourself.
Tips:
-You can likely use a hair dryer to heat up the old display when removing, feel it with your hands, don't get it so hot that you can't keep your fingers on it for a few seconds, you don't want to damage your earpiece, front sensors, camera, etc.
-When removing the old adhesive from a good-used display, use plastic to scrape at it, metal will remove the black dye and make scratched in the bezel around the screen.
-The capacitive sensors for Recents and Back have tabs that allow you to push them into the frame of the phone before applying the new screen, makes it much easier to align and worry-free.
The adhesive comes from Ebay seller diy_iparts "Pre-Cut Adhesive Tape for Samsung Galaxy S5"
(unsure if I'm allowed to post direct links to ebay) I am giving you this information because I read that a lot of pre-cut adhesives from other sources are bad quality and not up to OEM spec, made of totally different materials, etc. This won't matter too much if you aren't worried about the water resistance of your phone and the display sitting perfectly flush to the frame.
Does any one if there is a front and back screen protector for yotaphone 2.also are the invisible shield any good
The few screen protectors I tested (on my wife's Yotaphone 2) were not very convincing (cut to close to the actual device borders, so would eventually get lifted a bit and bubbles would appear), I prefer the bumper.
Didn't find any protector on the market for the back cover. The only one I ordered were not delivered, the maker explained that they stopped shipping them because they didn't stick properly. Might be because the back is slightly curved and/or because the back coating is slightly grainy (not polished/shiny). And indeed it's scratch-prone, even if small scratches aren't a big deal-breaker for me...
Hope this helps!
adamo86 said:
Does any one if there is a front and back screen protector for yotaphone 2.also are the invisible shield any good
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Click to collapse
I've recently bought a set of screen protectors (front & back) which I'm happy with so far. Don't know if it's OK to name brands, but I wouldn't know how to otherwise describe them: I got them from ace-case dot co dot uk. Their site doesn't list YotaPhone2, but they have a set for it. You can find them on eBay too. (I'm not in any way affiliated with them, except for being a customer).
With the limitation of only using them for 2 days, I'll review them here:
Included in the front+back set:
- Front sheet
- Back sheet
- squeegee
- microfiber cloth
Size
The size as delivered was not perfect for neither the front or back sheet (end of may 2015, size may have improved in the meantime). I had to trim them a bit with scissors to prevent it from extending to/beyond the edge of the screen (and thus coming loose easily). For the front I had to slightly trim two corners, for the back I had to trim about 1mm off the bottom.
Material
It's flexible plastic (FWIW: they claim self-healing and use the term 'military grade'). Not sure if it's PVC, but for an impression: it feels similar to the translucent material of the valve of an inflatable swimming band
The protectors are very clear (largely invisible, no perceivable change in color or darkening) with a shiny (and reflective) finish. The material is soft to the touch (you could probably make a mark in it with a fingernail), and it provides excellent grip.
Applying
There's a good instruction on their site, basically apply by wetting the sheet in water with a slight drop of mild soap, then sliding into place. Since it's flexible it will easily follow the curves of the back too. It's fairly easy to get rid of most bubbles, any remaining bubbles disappear after a few days. There's some glue on the back of the sheets, it sticks nicely to the back too.
Pro's
- Improves grip tremendously, especially compared to the original smooth and slippery backside, won't slip out of your hands
- clear: does not limit visibility (not counting glare here, only translucency).
- The sharpness and contrast of the backside seems to actually improve a bit, you can see individual pixels better with the protector applied.
- Applies pretty easily and cleanly, all bubbles seem to disappear (unless there's something underneath like a dust particle)
Con's
- Shiny material on the back looks a bit less classy to my taste than the original matte finish. There's nothing wrong with the material itself though, looks OK.
- you lose the feeling of the silky smooth matte backside surface
- size is a bit off: you need to trim to size manually
Tips:
- If a sheet doesn't seem to stick well, verify that you received the right material. It should be slightly sticky on the backside. (I accidentally received one sheet of wrong type of plastic, rigid and without glue, wouldn't stick to the back. They promptly sent me a replacement.)
- They recommend using the plastic squeegee to remove bubbles, I fear that using it directly may actually harm/scratch the protector. I wrapped my squeegee in the supplied microfiber cloth first.
- apply in the bathroom/shower after running the hot water for some time: removes most dust from the air.
Yes that's where I bought mine I got an extra one free of charge after explaining they are not the right fit
Rrreutel said:
I've recently bought a set of screen protectors (front & back) which I'm happy with so far. Don't know if it's OK to name brands, but I wouldn't know how to otherwise describe them: I got them from ace-case dot co dot uk. Their site doesn't list YotaPhone2, but they have a set for it. You can find them on eBay too. (I'm not in any way affiliated with them, except for being a customer).
With the limitation of only using them for 2 days, I'll review them here:
Included in the front+back set:
- Front sheet
- Back sheet
- squeegee
- microfiber cloth
Size
The size as delivered was not perfect for neither the front or back sheet (end of may 2015, size may have improved in the meantime). I had to trim them a bit with scissors to prevent it from extending to/beyond the edge of the screen (and thus coming loose easily). For the front I had to slightly trim two corners, for the back I had to trim about 1mm off the bottom.
Material
It's flexible plastic (FWIW: they claim self-healing and use the term 'military grade'). Not sure if it's PVC, but for an impression: it feels similar to the translucent material of the valve of an inflatable swimming band
The protectors are very clear (largely invisible, no perceivable change in color or darkening) with a shiny (and reflective) finish. The material is soft to the touch (you could probably make a mark in it with a fingernail), and it provides excellent grip.
Applying
There's a good instruction on their site, basically apply by wetting the sheet in water with a slight drop of mild soap, then sliding into place. Since it's flexible it will easily follow the curves of the back too. It's fairly easy to get rid of most bubbles, any remaining bubbles disappear after a few days. There's some glue on the back of the sheets, it sticks nicely to the back too.
Pro's
- Improves grip tremendously, especially compared to the original smooth and slippery backside, won't slip out of your hands
- clear: does not limit visibility (not counting glare here, only translucency).
- The sharpness and contrast of the backside seems to actually improve a bit, you can see individual pixels better with the protector applied.
- Applies pretty easily and cleanly, all bubbles seem to disappear (unless there's something underneath like a dust particle)
Con's
- Shiny material on the back looks a bit less classy to my taste than the original matte finish. There's nothing wrong with the material itself though, looks OK.
- you lose the feeling of the silky smooth matte backside surface
- size is a bit off: you need to trim to size manually
Tips:
- If a sheet doesn't seem to stick well, verify that you received the right material. It should be slightly sticky on the backside. (I accidentally received one sheet of wrong type of plastic, rigid and without glue, wouldn't stick to the back. They promptly sent me a replacement.)
- They recommend using the plastic squeegee to remove bubbles, I fear that using it directly may actually harm/scratch the protector. I wrapped my squeegee in the supplied microfiber cloth first.
- apply in the bathroom/shower after running the hot water for some time: removes most dust from the air.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Bought the same one and just applied on the back trimming the bottom of the film. Will see tomorrow the result! it seems really different from common plastic films, I think the ace-case is the only producer of this type of screen protectors for our Yotaphone2.
Yotafone 2 protection
I bought this for the front https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Tem...id=72df799d-3f68-4d2f-8179-569b52b18899&tpp=1
This for the back https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Liq...44.html?spm=2114.13010208.99999999.298.nZRaCS
And a Bumper case http://www.ebay.com/itm/381866594315?var=650858687459
I carry it in this http://www.ebay.com/itm/262346608956
This site has most accessories including good prices and ratings but I'm fussy so I bought everything separately including a new Yotaphone 2 with the Snapdragon 801 from Everbuying.
email only offer @$120.99 + $5 DHL was too good to pass up.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2pc...id=72df799d-3f68-4d2f-8179-569b52b18899&tpp=1
I've had my black S8 since release date, been rocking a DBrand skin on the back and a official Samsung screen protector on the front.
Today I was driving with my phone on the lap and it slide across and hit the side door as I was turning. When I arrived at the destination I examined and discovered tiny micro scuff on the bottom right corner next to the antenna, also a chip size of a of tiny sand grain on the actual antenna.
My main concern is the scuff as the chip on antenna doesn't bother me. I was wondering if it would be safe to use car polishing products or car scratch removal products to try and reduce or fix the scuffs.
I will be applying the products with a q-tip and slowly buffering it in and finish of with a microfiber cloth. If it succeeds in hiding or fixing the scuff I'll add some wax to the area to seal it in so it'll minimise the effectiveness on wearing off quicker.
Any thoughts or advice? :fingers-crossed:
This may be of very limited use but I believe I'm far from the only one still using this device and the torn speaker membrane is very common.
Prerequisites:
Moto G3 with torn speaker membrane, preferably in need of replacement screen
Donor Moto G3
Standard tools for disassembly (see iFixit etc. for reaching the point where you have the screen removed)
As this requires removing the LCD it's hardly worth doing unless you have a cracked screen that needs replacing. In my case I had a device with various issues, bought another device with a broken screen but otherwise functioning, and simply swapped screens. You can get spares & repairs Moto G3s for very little (<£15/$15).
Ideally your donor screen doesn't have a torn membrane. If it does, as in my case, you can do the following to repair it:
The entire grille/ membrane is stuck to the glass from the inside.
Carefully run a sharp knife underneath the hard silver plastic and lever it out.
The plastic membrane is actually 2 sheets. Use a knife, fingernail, tweezers etc. starting at the edge to peel the first layer away: it is a thin tranparent plastic sheet surrounding the hole. You don't need to worry about removing cleanly, you won't need these any more.
Then do the same on the grey membrane, which is thicker and held on more securely, requiring more force to remove.
Now remove the entire bottom main speaker grille part from the your broken screen (i.e. whichever screen you'll no longer be using)
This simply has some sort of material mesh-like grille which can be peeled off carefully.
Once removed, align the edge of the material with your earpiece speaker piece and stick on. The mesh is longer so you have to trim the end off with scissors.
You now have a new earpiece speaker grille, with a cloth-like membrane like the main speaker grille, rather than the original plastic membrane.
This can now be replaced as the glue should still hold.
Hope this helps somebody despite being a rather convoluted process. Waterproofing not tested yet! And note the battery light is not diffused as before so appears brighter.
Great write up and thanks for taking the time to post
Nice one even I tore but no issues facing on speaker
Do u have any image or video on doing this !!
ceanosri said:
Do u have any image or video on doing this !!
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Click to collapse
I could add some pics of the parts if that would help? Didn't think to take pics during the process unfortunately