Database Users

Urgent : Who writes the info for the connectors page????

Hello:
I previously started a topic in the general forum about the connectors:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/viewtopic.php?t=11231
I have just made a discovery....
My car charger would not work even thought I had the right pins on the unit. I have found out what the problem was.
The document about the connectors for the Himalaya is slightly wrong - the pin out are right as far as I can tell, but the documents indicate the unit uses a 6V power supply.
I have just discovered that it should be a 5V power supply - I changed the voltage on my Car charger to 5V and it started working straight away. It seems the Himalaya might have an over voltage protection cct on it so it will not use the power if the voltage is too high, but I think the connectors tutorial page should be changed....
Icarusbop

icarusbop said:
Hello:
I previously started a topic in the general forum about the connectors:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/viewtopic.php?t=11231
I have just made a discovery....
My car charger would not work even thought I had the right pins on the unit. I have found out what the problem was.
The document about the connectors for the Himalaya is slightly wrong - the pin out are right as far as I can tell, but the documents indicate the unit uses a 6V power supply.
I have just discovered that it should be a 5V power supply - I changed the voltage on my Car charger to 5V and it started working straight away. It seems the Himalaya might have an over voltage protection cct on it so it will not use the power if the voltage is too high, but I think the connectors tutorial page should be changed....
Icarusbop
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My DIY Car-holder also has 5 volts in it. it's quite normal for PDA's to run at 5 volts - there is also 5 volts in the USB-plug which also charges the Qtek.
I have made the modicifations to the Connectors-page regarding Pin 2-audio GND and DIY Car-handsfree. - but i wouldn't change what earlier users have written about the 6 volts. So i haven't changed the info on the 6-volt supply. but i sure wouldn't put 6 volts into my Qtek 2020 !!!! - This is very delicate electronics and just that extra volt can do a lot of damage, if it's not properly designed.

overheating when on charge

Hi, I use a non-official car charger and after half an our I got The battery icon on the screen becoming red with an esclamation mark on it. bottom part of the liquid gets quite hot (not much but noticeably). I switched to my htc car charger and I had a little improvement (1 hr before red icon). Now it happens also with the official wall-plug charger ( but a couple of hrs after). I noticed the wall-plug puts out 5v dc. On the back of the phone, after removing battery, I can read 5v maximum but on the back of the battery itself it's written max 4,225v.
sound strange! could be the cause? or maybe my rom angio acr 1,8 is?
couldn't find similar problem around...

same to me using tomtom charger...

Using setcpu?
I think it get overheated when you use the phone and charge it at the same time. Snapgdragon gets hot!

well, in the last 2 home charges no over heating...
I found out htc carcharger put out 5V 2A, while home charger provides 5V 1A, that's should be the overheating. now the question is: where to find a proper carcharger?

update
I found a micro carcharger from hamlet-exagerate pushing out 1,2A, testing in the next days...You need the USB cable to make ot work

It says Input: 1A on the inside of the liquid next to the IMEI. So maybe you should stick with a 1A =< Charger, because you may void your warranty or(and) destroy you battery or the liquid!

ca't find a suitable one! hope 0,2A won't make the disaster...

Ok, now using EviL 1.8.1 no more overheating...

Faster USB charging?

Just got a new motheboard which has high output USB charging for iPhones, pads etc.
Can this work on N1 ?
http://gigabyte.com/MicroSite/185/on-off-charge.htm
edit: driver link is at the bottom for all the hackers. Hopefully its just changing string from apple to android hehe

kazprotos said:
Just got a new motheboard which has high output USB charging for iPhones, pads etc.
Can this work on N1 ?
http://gigabyte.com/MicroSite/185/on-off-charge.htm
edit: driver link is at the bottom for all the hackers. Hopefully its just changing string from apple to android hehe
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hopefully not, I dont want my nexus one to be iphone.
But as you know nexus one is using qualcomm motherboard.
But aslong cyanogen and fm transmitter is working there is no problem wiith your phone.

Dear lord what a crappy reply. Stick to disney mate.

It should, it basically just converts the USB port from .5 amps to 1 amp, like a wall charger.

elkyur said:
Hopefully not, I dont want my nexus one to be iphone.
But as you know nexus one is using qualcomm motherboard.
But aslong cyanogen and fm transmitter is working there is no problem wiith your phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
WTF??? May want to lay off the halucinogenics

elkyur said:
Hopefully not, I dont want my nexus one to be iphone.
But as you know nexus one is using qualcomm motherboard.
But aslong cyanogen and fm transmitter is working there is no problem wiith your phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
lol I seriously hope this is a joke!
I agree with JCopernicus, it should definitely work.

I installed the software in the first post but it still charges very slow compared to wall outlet

Slightly OT, but I've got a USB adapter that plugs into the wall that came with my iphone and when I plug the N1 USB cable into this to charge the N1, it still charges very slowly compared to using the proper wall adapter, why is this? Does this iphone adapter restrict the voltage or something?

Generally, "charger detected" is a circuit that has USB data pins shorted together. So when the phone's USB device probes the lines and detects them shorted, it knows it's connected to a power supply.
But since USB max current spec is 500mA, the current draw is restricted - either by the phone or by the supply.
There might be some other connectivity trick that allows the phone to know it can draw x2 current from the socket and won't damage anything. Most phones probably don't limit the current draw and count on the board to do it. Some boards don't limit the current output, or limit it higher. And the fast chargers provide pulsing voltage - which isn't like USB.
So for the board to be able to charge the device, it needs to detect a device that can use pulsing voltage, and enable such voltage on the socket. It doesn't detect Nexus as such a device, I believe, and that's why the charging is slow.

Faster charging with USB
Building on Jack_R1's response, I believe that the phone is limiting the charge rate. You can make the phone "realize" it is connected to a charger rather than a data connection by shorting the 2 middle USB pins together. I have done this in several car chargers, and the N1 About/Status shows charging (AC), which is the faster charge mode. While you can short the pins in the larger end of a dedicated USB cable, if you can disassemble the connector, I found it much easier to open the charger itself to short the pins.

i also have a gigabyte mobo that has this feature but i havent gotten around to test it out yet. I dont think it would work because the feature is software based and will only bump up the voltage if the program detects an iphone connecting to your computer. Gigabyte doesnt want to be liable if they bump up voltage on every device you plug in and fry something.
btw I have tried charging my n1 from my computer and its extremely slow. started charging at around 5pm on sunday and at 11pm it went from about 23%-97% lol.

Yes, USB charging is very slow. It's actually good for the battery, though.

Maybe someone with some know how can look at the driver files for this 3x tech and see how it checks if its an Apple device. Then fool the check and presto!
Shame I don't know how to do any of this

There is a simple hardware (don't worry, it's on the cable) mod for faster charging; however, make sure the phone has good air vent (it means NO CASE when charging).
1. modify your microUSB cable, disconnect the data connector the A (host) plug, then shorten the data connector to the B plug. (This can charge N900 properly, and speed up n1 charging).
2. modify your powered (with AC adapter plugged) USB hub. Simply shorten the #2 and 3 connectors on USB jack. Make sure you cut the copper strip going to the chip or malfunction may occur.
These modification can greatly speed up the charging, but phone will produce a lot of heat (that's why you must have the phone "naked").

I don't understand this. If the phone + battery are capable of being charged at 1000 mAh from the wall charger then why need extra cooling when asking for 1000 mAh from a PC USB socket?
Mine's still defo getting only 500 mAh from the PC USB despite it being able to give up to 2700 mAh for iPad!!! All I want is my 100 mAh charge.

Because what he suggests isn't a proper charging but rather removal of slot power control, and will damage the battery / phone, if succeeds.
Proper charging at 1000mAh requires pulsing voltage - his hack doesn't provide that. Your MB does, but it requires SW intervention to turn it on.

So can someone brew the intervention ?

martinl1030 said:
i also have a gigabyte mobo that has this feature but i havent gotten around to test it out yet. I dont think it would work because the feature is software based and will only bump up the voltage if the program detects an iphone connecting to your computer. Gigabyte doesnt want to be liable if they bump up voltage on every device you plug in and fry something.
btw I have tried charging my n1 from my computer and its extremely slow. started charging at around 5pm on sunday and at 11pm it went from about 23%-97% lol.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They are not doing anything to the voltage, simply allowing more current to pass.
And as said in this thread, any typical data USB cable will charge very slowly. And most standard USB ports charge well less than the max specced 500mAh, in fact my subnote at work I found charged my old phone at around 150mah one time when I was dead and needed to top off and it's all I had available.

i'm not sure of the pinout on the micro USB port but i'm pretty sure that that the Mini USB-B port that was used on phones like the G1 used shorting the -Data pin to the unused 5th pin (actually pin 4 on the connector pinout) to activate AC charge mode. some devices actually require a resister of a certain value to be placed across them to work(i know older motorola phones did like IDEN's)
one thing people often forget but should not forget is that current is drawn from the device using power. its not forced on the device. voltage is forced on a device and while a variance is usually ok for devices depending on how they were designed generally its not a good idea to exceed +1.5v on any low power DC device. 120V AC devices are designed to actually work in a much wider range like 100-130V but thats because of the power supply/nature of AC power. it always varies and in japan they use 100v 60hz AC so many electronics power supplies are designed to work in the full range to save costs and only have to make 1 unit for all (same deal with 220-240 switches on PC power supplies)
the reason why you don't want to do this mod is you could damage you PC's motherboard by pulling too much current from its circuits. USB spec is 500ma. performing this type of mod on a power adapter (car or AC) that does not get recognized as an AC charger by the phone is a safer way to go. worst case senario is you break the charger (unless you mess up on the pinout then you could damage you phone too though)

a500 car charger

Has anyone torn down a car charger to direct wire the car charger into a vehicle?

Why not just use an inverter and plug it into that?

Car Charger
partin_us_99 said:
Has anyone torn down a car charger to direct wire the car charger into a vehicle?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why tear one down. You would have to completely redesign and rebuild it. The plug and wire is about all you would be able to use.
This is kinda pricey but I think this is what you want:
powerstream. com/ADC-p006. htm PST-YD100W
There is a couple of things to consider.
1. A car electrical system typically runs from about 9 volts on the low side to about 15 volts on the high side taking in consideration noise spikes maybe more in very short spikes.
2. your tablet is designed to run very close to 12 volts probably + or - 5% or 11.4 to 12.6 volts it may work okay up to + & - 10% or may not.
3. the adapter must be able to supply 12 volts @ at least 1.5 amps - you can find this value on your AC Adapter that came with your tablet.
So while the car may still run down to ~10 volts the tablet would likely have problems. Regulators normally take the input voltage and use a couple of volts to regulate. So if the input is 12 volts the output is going to be around 10 volts - to low for the tablet to work reliably. In most cases the car regulator when charging outputs around 14.4 volts. That on the other hand would work. One solution and the one I believe is used by the device from the power stream website is to use a voltage multiplier or DC to DC converter that amplifies the voltage then regulates it down to what is needed.
By the way it also comes with a bunch of plug adapters to match the jack on the tablet.
Regards,
- Phil

Found an article on hard wiring it with an add a circuit so I'm gonna do that. This isn't my first car wiring rodeo so it'll work. Thanks for all the replies I'll keep y'all updated
Sent from my GT-N7005 using xda app-developers app

I used an old Nokia 636 plug that I had that has the 3X1mm tip needed and spliced it into a mini usb car adapter, that was for my Tilt2 at the time, right after the fuse so I could power my phone and A500 simultaneously. It's been working fine for over a year and a half, I still use the Tilt2 as my dash cam. The Tilt2 plug also has an extra full usb port and friends and family will occasionally use that to charge their phones on trips so that one plug powers 3 devices and works fine.
So go for it, you will be fine.

Has anyone tried connecting 5 Volts directly to the internal battery terminals ?

Does it damage the Board or not?
I accidentally did connect 5v for a second or so,
it did power on, i disconnected immediately, and after that it didnt power on for several hours,
but not sure if it was because of the interruption during boot, or overvoltage.
Can somebody confirm?
(i cant use a diode for voltage reduction, its a bit complicated, i use a load sharing capable solar charger board etc)

its a nook simple touch

Yow, don't do that!
Ok, it should be able to take it, but still.
I've often fed 4V to devices which had their battery blow up.
In worst cases I've used a diode for drop, but the voltage can be pretty variable over load.
The uboot on most things will not continue if there is zero voltage on the battery.
Also, the peak current of a device can go up to 600 mA or more at times.
That kind of current often can't come in through the USB connector.
Finally, battery packs have ID connections and thermistor.
Entirely disconnecting a battery pack will often prevent booting even when voltage is present.
If you have a dead battery pack always keep the the connector, cable and tiny PCB inside.
Attach a power supply to where the naked cells used to connect to the PCB.
For wiring of the battery pack see: https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=42552349&postcount=5

thanks, 2 weeks ago i prepared to measure possible resistors but did a google search before, found your description...
i use the protection board with a 18650 3000mAh lithium manganese (to prevent blow (up)) etc cell and charge it externally,
which requires switching between charging the batt + powering the nook over the batt terminals,
and using the batt for powering the nook , all that while the usb keyboard is connected and in use,
this is done via relay and a really big capacitor, which works great but is a bit ghettostyle.
i tried to use another charger board with load sharing circuitry instead,
but the only easy available module requires 5v minimum input, passes this 5v to load if the ac adapter is plugged in,
if not, it passes the battery voltage to load,
so a diode(+ parallel resistor to maintain voltage drop) or LDO doesnt work because it would at least steal around 0,5 v,
which is to much reduction for the battery voltage, because the nst powers off at ~ 3,7v,
easiest would be to just let the 5v to the nook but seems no good idea.
anyways, it works with the relay